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FCH: Food Editor Jane Nickerson
1. Jane Nickerson: First NYT Food Editor &
Later Lakeland Ledger Food Editor
Kimberly Wilmot Voss, PhD
Associate Professor, UCF
Presented at the Florida Conference of
Historians, UCF, 2016
25. Lakeland Restaurant Reviewing
• Jane Nickerson dined one evening last week at an old
established eatery whose manager had changed. It was
a motel restaurant which Jane had panned pretty badly
a year ago. Wanting to do amends, Jane returned
hoping to find new management serving better and
more exciting dishes. But lo, what did Jane find? The
usual fare, higher prices and poorly prepared food.
Overly concerned that she would have to again give the
restaurant a bad review, she talked with her editors.
We agreed that we would forego the review and try it
again in six months to see if things get better.
Material came from her writing, her NYT personnel file from the NYPL, references to her in books & Cecily Brownstone’s oral history.
Women’s Pages headed by Dorothy Jurney
In addition to jobs as a
When Nickerson reviewed restaurants, her dinner partners often included popular chef and cookbook author James Beard and longtime Associated Press food editor Cecily Brownstone
According to the New York Times food editor Jane Nickerson, there were more than 21,000 restaurants in her city by 1949. She wrote: “They serve to the city’s residents and guest foods in so many languages as to rob the city of any one set of distinctive dishes.” She went on mention Polish, French, Italian, Chinese, and German restaurants (Tracy, 1952, 143).
Nickerson leaves the NYT for Lakeland in 1957; she is replaced by Craig Claiborne – who was not Jane’s or James Beards’ first choice.