The fashion report was presented on 28th September 2011 at the All-Russia Exhibition Centre (Hall 75), Moscow, Russia hosted the 37th Federal Trade Fair “TEXTILLEGPROM” – the largest exhibition in Russia and the CIS countries for textile and light industry goods and equipment, functioning in B2B format and covering the entire spectrum of products and services of this economic sector.
1. National Institute of Fashion For Federal Trade Fair "TEXTILLEGPROM" Moscow , September 2011
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4. The different age groups of the customers have their own preferences, which is of importance in design of collection. In this presentation we analyze: AGE GROUPS Youth group ( age 20-35) Middle age group (35-55) Elderly age group (55 and upwards)
7. Anglo-Saxon or Scandinavian image Collections were created for independent and strong woman as in previous seasons. However today her image comes closer to the Nature . Her look recalls Anglo-Sax and Scandinavian types. Her lifestyle and mentality are reminiscent of Northern epic heroes and Vikings, from whom comprehension of fatal magic female force has come to us. Kenzo
9. Ralph Ruccci Chanel Austerity and self-sufficiency in combination with business style It is image of a woman who’s overcome cataclysms of 2012. She combines wild cat plastic with terminator endurance.
14. Silhouettes usage statistical data over fall/winter 2011-12 season in Russia Silhouette Youth group 57% 9% 16% 14% 4% Middle age 53% 12% 14% 16% 5% Elderly age 54% 13% 10% 23% -
20. OVAL SILHOUETTE « ANGULAR OVALS » These oval silhouettes are drawn towards a wide rectangular « WIDE-OPENED OVALS » Large volumes are created by draperies and widened sleeves. Such silhouette accentuates an accruing tendency of oval silhouette usage a lot more. Chanel Alexander Wang Burberry Prorsum
23. THE TRAPEZOID Influence of an oval silhouette has had an impact on the trapezoid silhouettes. The trapezoid has flowing and smoothed angles, therefore the whole image does not look so aggressively as it was some years ago. Alexander Wang Michael Kors
40. REPTILE LEATHER Currently, usage of computerized pattern of reptile skin fits perfectly into the leading fashion trend - which is an aspiration of an digital era person towards the wild nature
42. Natural structures Natural structures fit effortlessly in a today's costume as an imitation of the cracked or relief surface with new textures. Sometimes it looks like surface with the emerged outgrowths.
43. PSYCHEDELIC ORNAMENT Character of bright English prints is so much exaggerated by present designers that it has adopted psychedelic nature, in which challenging color kaleidoscope camouflages the person.
47. CARELESS BULKY KNITTING Effect of carelessness in a way of knitting also gives softness to the whole image
48. THE FUR RESEMBLING A WIG The long fur, which is creating an image of uncombed and ungroomed yeti, has found its level among vanguard models of designer’s collections.
50. THE FUR REMINDING A CUDDLY TOY Such multi-colored and differently-textured types of fur are often used in one model, that is why it looks shabbier and touching as a teddy bear.
51. The fur reminding forgotten good old Soviet toys evokes cozy memoirs
52. THE PATCHY FUR Presence of negligence and lack of a luxury hint is a leading trend of furs range. This shabby and flocculent fur resembles the one, which our ancestors wore. This fur seems to belong to the person, who stood up into fights with the pack of wolves...
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54. COLOUR The color scheme reflects the emotional part of a new female image and the general atmosphere of collections.
55. Achromatic Brights Darks Pastels Achromatic Brights Darks Pastels Achromatic Brights Darks Pastels Youth group ( age 20-35) Middle age group (35-55) Elderly age group (55 and upwards)
56. THE BLACKS. In last fall-winter seasons black color has supplanted all spectrum of colors. Models on runway looked like the funeral procession striding from one collection to another. Last season black colors changed already a little and began to remind dark gray. In this season picturesque dark gray colors remind glitter and variety tints of natural black pearls Chanel Black color on Russian streets Alexander Wang
57. THE WHITES. The scheme of white colors has also changed. Now they are not snowy white, but warm tints of white. No wonder that PANTONE has given names to all of them: an ivory white, an oyster white, a porcelain white, an antique white etc. Both dark grey and dingy white silhouettes are often supplemented with unexpected accents of bright colors Bensoni Akris The white color on Russian streets
58. Chado Ralf Rucci Chanel THE B&W. The classic black and white color combination allows to reach laconism of an English image. Moreover, in this season contrasting trimmings of constructive lines and edges of details go down a treat giving additional graphicness and rigidity to a clear-cut silhouette of a business woman. This color combination looks more provocative than mix of charcoal-blacks and antique-whites. However, the color combination of dark grey with tints of dingy white or neutrals sound most sharply and exciting The classic b&w on Russian streets
59. BRIGHTS. The saturated and compound contrast of related colors have appeared last spring. In fall-winter’12 season they completely fill in entire silhouette. Often they harmonize with achromatic colors. It gives them refinement and adds zest. These colors remind dramatic sounds “dièse and bémol”, which seem to be disappearing in a heavy fog. There are many models designed upon discreet achromatic scale where bright color supported by nothing else sounds unexpectedly sonorous. Burberry Prorsum Alexander Wang Akris Chanel
61. NATURALS. This palette has became popular last season already. Tints of flesh and beige colors have priority in it. Through the usage of these colors designers transfer elegance and feminity of Scandinavian images which are far from being soft. This color scale looks especially magnetic in the suits with various light fur dressed on models with lightened fluttering long hair. Owing to tints of flesh color even heavy overcoats and jackets look fabulous Diesel Black Gold Akris Burberry Prorsum Natural colours in the streets.
63. FOOTWEAR A nkle boots - massive wedge heel - hefty heel - usage of print Open-toe sandals combined with socks. Coarse knee-length socks and woolen socks evoke thoughts of traditional Scandinavian motives.
64. SHOES Comfortable elegant shoes come back. It became fashionable to trim them with a practical tweed, which reminds of old good England. BROGUES AND LOAFERS As a result of the currency of androgynous style one can discover more frequently the elements of man's clothes in a female image In fact, brogues became the hit of the season F/W’12
65. HANDBAGS Rigid bag - a sac/briefcase A sac/briefcase is the best variant for the business and self-sufficient girl. It can contain all necessary thing that she needs during the day.
66. Soft and fluffy handbag There is an aura of warmth and coziness about it. Natural fur of chinchillas and foxes is used for its manufacturing
67. Wattled bags Ethnic motives continue to win the market. Designers use different geographical zones for their inspiration and create collections which based on motives of national clothes of one or another country. - Monochrome scale with dominated classical colors - Reptile leather - Decorative components are brushes, fringes and wattled thongs.
68. ACCESSORIES The cultural heritage of Scandinavian people has become a source of inspiration for the last winter collection. For the spring collection - the cultural heritage of Asia and Africa has served. Long-forgotten ethnic motives is becoming stronger again. Massiveness and laconism of decorations.
72. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION 971-70-30 FashionInstitute.ru Dean of Fashion Design faculty : Inga Kallagova [email_address] +7 (925) 044 71 54 Moscow, September’ 11 .