This instruction sheet offers information to the flameworker who wishes to embellish their glass beads with silver caps and cores. Author: Tink Martin

1. Riveted and Silver Core Beads
Presented by
Tink Martin Art Glass
Black Swamp Glassworks
www.tinkmartin.com
tink@blackswampglassworks.com
419-255-8465

2. Riveted Bead Caps
Supplies
Jeweler’s saw (or glass saw, for small diameter tubing) or tube cutter
Dapping Block and Punches
Steel Block
Torch, Charcoal Block and Heatproof Surface
Pickle
Hand Punch or drill and awl
Transfer Punches
Pre-cut sterling disks (24 or 26 gauge)
Leather Mallet or Hammer
Jeweler’s Files
Buffing wheel and polish (White Diamond and Red Rouge or synthetic wheels)
For an average bead, we use ½” disks. Use a transfer punch to mark the center
of each disk. Use a hand punch or drill to make a hole in the center of each
disk. The tubing should be a snug fit through the hole in the disk. Put the disk
into the dapping block. Choose a punch that fits the hole in the dapping block
and use a hammer to hit the punch a few times until the dome is a well-formed
cap that fits nicely on your bead.
Place a cap on each end of the bead. Insert tubing through the bead and both
caps. Mark and cut the tubing so that you end up with 2-3mm of the tubing
sticking out of each cap. Don’t forget to allow for the length you’ll lose when
you file the ends of the cut tubing! If you anneal and pickle your tubing before
the riveting process, the ends will flare more easily. Use an awl or similar tool to
flare each end of the tubing.
Working on your steel block, begin with a dapping punch slightly larger than
the inside dimensions of the tubing and use a hammer to gently start to flare the
end of the tubing with a couple of taps. Turn the bead over and flare the
opposite end. Return to the original end and repeat this sequence using
increasingly larger punches.
After the rivet is flared to your liking, polish the caps. Take care not to heat the
bead too much in this process; it can unanneal your bead and/or cause it to
crack. Use Emery paper to remove any scratches, then polish.

3. Silver Core Beads
Supplies
7/16” OD Stainless Steel Tubing coated with bead release
11 mm diamond core drill bit and Dremel®
Jeweler’s Saw or tube cutter
½” diameter sterling silver tubing
Torch, Charcoal Block and Heatproof Surface
Pickle
Corrugated cardboard
Dapping Punches
Leather Mallet or Hammer
Steel Block
Jeweler’s files
Buffing and Polishing Supplies (White Diamond and Red Rouge or synthetics)
Make a bead on the stainless tubing that has been coated with bead release.
Experiment with various widths and thicknesses, but I’ve found that beads less
than 9mm wide and 6mm thick tend to break during this process. Anneal. Use
the core drill in water to open up the bead until the sterling tubing just barely
fits through the hole.
Cut the tubing so that 2mm extends on each side of the bead. File the ends until
they are smooth. Anneal and pickle the tubing.
Make a hole in the cardboard that is slightly larger than the diameter of the
tubing. Place the cardboard on top of your steel block and place the tubing into
the hole.
Choose a dapping punch that is slightly bigger than the diameter of the tubing.
Use the leather mallet to tap the punch into the tubing 3 or 4 times or until the
silver starts to flare. Turn over and repeat. Choose a punch that is 3 or 4 sizes
larger and repeat until the tubing is nicely flared.
Turn the large punch over and use the flat side against the silver to finish
hammering the silver down flush with the bead, or just use your leather mallet.
Use Emery paper to remove any scratches, then polish.

4. I first learned of these techniques through the articles listed below. I am
indebted to Bronwen and Susan, and very grateful for their generosity. It still
took a lot of trial and error, and lots of practice to end up with something I
liked. I finally developed methods for creating these beads that suited me. I
have formulated this handout for folks who, like me, have little or no
metalsmithing experience.
Lapidary Journal, Oct. 2002 – Capping Beads Step by Step by Bronwen Heilman
Lapidary Journal, June 2001 – Silver Core Beads by Susan Silvy
I purchase my raw metals and some jewelry supplies from:
Rio Grande Santa Fe Jewelers Supply
www.riogrande.com www.sfjssantafe.com
800.545.6566 800.659.3835
Metalliferous Metalliferous has a great
www.metalliferous.com selection of goodies, at
888.944.0909 pretty good prices
www.widgetsupply.com Dapping blocks/punches at low prices:
Brass Dapping Block - BKH38 - Price: $19.97
There are various punch sets available
I found the hand punch at Harbor Freight Tools. It comes with seven
punch/dies ranging in size from 2mm to 7mm. One of my favorite tools!
ITEM 44060-1VGA
It’s $16.99, but often goes on sale for $11.99
www.harborfreight.com
Tubing Reference List
For Riveted Caps --
Tubing for beads made on a 3/32” mandrel: 2 or 3mm OD
Tubing for beads made on a 1/8” mandrel: 3 or 4mm OD
For Silver Core Beads –
Some folks use sterling tubing that is the same size as their mandrel. I find that
the bead release makes the bead hole a little sloppy for a good fit. Your mandrel
should be slightly smaller than your tubing.