Love it or hate it, Berlin is a place where street culture flourishes. From the boulevards of Charlottenburg to the back alleys of Kreuzburg, the city is awash with creative industry, political ideology and a Do - It - Yourself attitude that pervades art, music literature and food.

1. BCTR
2012
BERLIN
CITY
GUIDE
2012
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2. BERLIN
CITY
GUIDE
2012

3. BERLIN : INS AND OUTS CITY GUIDE 2012
CONTENT
HIDDEN GEMS
HIDDEN GEMS TELL LITTLE STORIES ABOUT THE CITY
OF BERLIN. ENJOY READING ONE IN EVERY MAIN SECTION !
PASSPORT AT CHECKPOINT CHECKPOINT CHARLIE
CHARLIE Introduction
PAGE 8 - 9
Accomodation
PAGE 23
BERLINER’S VOICE
BY JOSEPH LINNHOFF BY JOSEF LINNHOFF
PAGE 58 9 important dates of Berlin The Circus Hostel
1237 First documented Ostel BERLINER’S VOICE INTERVIEWS
mention of Cölln, a tiny island Pfefferbett Hostel LOCALS TO GET INSIDER
in the River Spree INFORMATION ON
THE MUST-SEE SPOTS
Our selections Museums, Monuments OF THE CITY.
PAGE 10 -13 and Galllerie PAGE 25
THE BIBLICAL BEER GARDEN
BY JOSEPH LINNHOFF 24 hours in Berlin Once described as a city which PAGE 33 Anja, 45 : ‘I would
PAGE 63 A week-end in Berlin is always becoming and never definitely recommend ’
being it comes as no surprise
KNUT THE POLAR BEAR that
Survival guide PAGE 79 Claudia, 36 : ’I would
PAGE 14 -15 recommend going on a boat ’
KADEWE SHOPPING CENTER Museums
Getting here and
DELICATESSEN DIPPING going home The Old Museum 27 PAGE 107 Anna, 21 : ‘The US
BY JOSEPH LINNHOFF Berlin, the safest city Anne Frank Centre 28 Listening Station ’
PAGE 90 Laws Anti-War Museum 29
Internet in Berlin Berlinische Galerie : Museum PAGE 40 Bodo, 63 : ’I would
Embassies of Modern Art, Photography recommend a walk along ’
and Architecture 30
Bode Museum 31
Berlin by area PAGE 74 Camilla, 59 : ‘Berlin offers
German Cinematic Museum
PAGE 16 -19 so much in terms of theatre ’
DOWN TO KÖLLNISCHER PARK for Film and Televison 32
BY ABBY POULTON Mitte Deutsches Historisches
Kreuzberg Museum 33 PAGE 43 Christoph, 31 : ‘My
PAGE 78
Charlottenburg Jewish Museum 34 favourite is the Pergammon ’
Prenzlauer Berg The Kreuzberg Museum 35
THE BEAR, SYMBOLE OF BERLIN CITY Friedrichshain Helmut Newton Foundation 36 PAGE 122 Haci Baba, 42 : ’My
Tiergarten Neues Museum 37 favorite place in the city is ’
Schöneberg Pergamon Museum 38
KNUT IS KING BY Further outs in Berlin Stasi Museum 39
PAGE 85 Funda, 25 : ’I usually
ABBY POULTON Willy Brandt Forum 40
spend an entire sunday ’
PAGE 127 Transport
PAGE 20 Monuments
PAGE 135 Peter, 27 : ’For
U-Bahn Tickets Berlin Cathedral 42 restaurants, the Unsicht Bar ’
Public transport Brandenburg Gate 42
BURGERS IN BOGS
BY JOSEPH LINNHOFF CONTRIBUTORS : Berlin : Ins and Outs City Guide 2012. Editor in Chief Sam Bavin Section Editors Greig
PAGE 137 Easton, Jess Cole, Sian Sugars, Lisa Jahanarai, Tim Blore, Alicia Ramsay, Cate Hopkins, Kate Neuswanger,
Abby Poulton Writers Tim Blore, Alicia Ramsay, Cate Hopkins, Jessica Cropper, Josef Linnhoff, Sam Bavin,
Lisa Jahanarai, Greig Easton, Adam Nash, Sian Sugars, Diana Szentgyörgyi, Abby Poulton, Jess Cole, Kate
Neuswanger, James Storbeck, Elsa Mcbride Graphique Designer Diana Szentgyörgyi Photo Editor Sian Sugars
Illustrations by Elsa Mcbride. Berlin : Ins and Outs City Guide 2012 is made thanks to Berlin City Travel
Review Summer Program, July Session 2012.

4. BERLIN : INS AND OUTS CITY GUIDE 2012 CONTENT
Checkpoint Charlie 44 Bars KaDeWe - Kaufhaus Mein Haus am See 145
WALKING TOURS
Buddhist House 45 des Westerns 106 Wonder Waffle 146
Bei Schlawinchen 81
Memorial to the Murdered Kaufhalle - Berlin 107
Blackland 82 PAGE 20 S41 AND S42 CIRCLE TOUR
Jews of Europe 46
Dazzle Rock Club 83
Ocelot, not just another Restaurants If you find yourself in Berlin for an extended stay and are looking
The Wall at Bernauer bookstore 108
The Fat Landlady 84 Cancùn 147 for an alternative to a bus By KATE NEUSWANGER
Strasse 47 Overkill. Sneakers
Dr Pong 84 Lucky Leek 148
Television Tower 48 and Graffiti 109
House of 100 Beers 85 The Nordic Embassies 149 PAGE 22 THE 100 BUS TOUR
Humboldt University 49 Saint George’s Book Shop 110
Monarch 86 Paglia Pizzeria 150 The public bus route 100 provides a cheap way to take in many of
Olympic Stadium 50 Sony Centre 111
Strandbar 86 Soupkultur 151 Berlin’s major historical sites and attractions By KATE NEUSWANGER
Reichstag 51
UB+Frey 87
Saint Hedwig’s Cathedral 52 Markets
The Victory Column 53
VErkehrsBeruhigte Contributors PAGE 152 -155
Ost Zone 88 Antikmarkt 112 PAGE 41 BERLIN DARK WORLDS UNDERGROUND WALKING
Soviet War Memorial 53
Weinerei Forum 89 DaWanda Designer TOUR This is just one of several intriguing tours run by Berliner
Yorckschlösschen 89 Mitte Unterwelten e.V. The exploration takes you By ADAM NASH
Market 112
Galleries Mauerpark Market 113
Prenzlauer Berg
Friedrichshain
Bauhaus-Archiv 54 Clubs Kreuzberg PAGE 113 STERN UND KREIS BOAT TOURS
Hamburger Bahnhof 55 Street Culture PAGE 117 Schöneberg Discover a different view of Berlin by exploring the city’s various
Berghain 90
KW Institute for
Cassiopeia 91 Love it or hate it, Berlin is Tiergarten canals and bridges via a boat tour By KATE NEUSWANGER
Contemporary Art 56
Club der Visionaere 92 a place where street culture Charlottenbourg
LUMAS Gallery 57
Gretchen 93 flourishes Lichtenberg
The New National Gallery 58 PAGE 120 ALTERNATIV BERLIN FREE TOUR
Kaffee Burger 94 Treptow
The Story of Berlin 59 Alternative Berlin’s free daily tours offer you a glimpse into the city’s
Matrix 95 Burgerium 121 Zehlendorf
Topography of Terror 60 vibrant creative arts community. By CATE HOPKINS
Tresor 96 Clash 122 Frohnau
Circle Culture Gallery 124
Outdoors PAGE 61 CurryWürst - Biers im
Beer Gardens
In a place as vibrant as Berlin,
Kaffee at Neuen See 97
S-Banhof 124 FEATURES
it is very easy for visitors to East Side Gallery 126
Prater Biergaten 98 Hatch Sticker Museum 128
become preoccupied with EL BOCHO CITIZEN CAMPAIGN DEDICATED FOLLOWERS ZIELONA GÒRA COLLECTIV HOUSE
seeing and doing as much as Kannopke’s Imbiss 129 OF BERLIN’S FASHION
possible.
Shopping, Markets and Kunsthaus Tacheles 129 PAGE 96
Fashion PAGE 99 Mustafa’s 130
Alexanderplatz 63 Nil Sudanesischer Imbiss 131 Every July circus tents fill with
From high-end fashion chains
Bebelplatz 63 Rosenthalerstrasse N°39 132 the beautiful and fashion
to free-for-all flea markets,
Berliner Zoo 64 obsessed hipsters of Berlin
quaint little bookshops to kitsch
Botanical Gardens 65 gift shops Cafes and Restaurants
Gendarmenmarkt 67 PAGE 133
Görlitzer Park 68 ALIAS
Absinthdepot 101 Berlin’s international culinary PAGE 119
Karl Marx Allee 69 Another Country 102
Kollwitzstrasse 70 scene is setting the stage for the
Dialogue Book Shop 103 city to become a serious foodie Every July circus tents fill with
Lake Schlachtensee 70 Fassbender and Rausch 104 the beautiful and fashion
Nikolaiviertal 71 destination
Hilly’s Second Hand obsessed hipsters of Berlin
Peacock Island 72 Clothes Shop 105 who gravitate in their crowds
Potsdamer Platz 73 Cafes towards the pulsating music
Schlossgarten 74
Tiergarten 76 ENTRANCE ANOTHER COUNTRY
Aldemir Eis 135 EL BOCHO COLLECTIVE HOUSES
Treptower Park 77 BrezelBar LeseLounge 137 PAGE 127 BERLIN’S BOOMING PAGE 123
Unter den Linden 78 Café Anna Blume 138 VEGETARIAN -
El Bocho is one of Berlin’s more Shortly after the wall came
Caffè E Gelato 139 VEGAN SCENE
prolific and well-known down, Berlin was dotted with
Bars, Clubs and Beer Cafe im Literaturhaus 139
street artists, whose paste-
PAGE 136
squat houses. Anarchists,
Gardens PAGE 79 Café Kotti 140
Double Eye 142 ups can be found all around Berlin’s already diverse hippies and artists saw
Not many places in the world Espresso Ambulanz 142 Friedrichshain, Prenzlauer Berg culinary scene now boast the abandoned buildings
can compete with Berlin when Kauf Dich Glücklich 143 and Kreuzberg. a plethora of delicious in the east
it comes to the diversity Kollwitzer Back 144

5. BERLIN : INS AND OUTS CITY GUIDE 2012 INTRODUCTION
HISTORY commerce, a full history of which on 13th August with the construc-
9 IMPORTANT
can be found on the guided walk tion of the Berlin Wall. There is
around Nikolaiviertal. GO TO PAGE 71 now a physical divide between
World War I breaks out and communist East and capitalist
a tumultuous period in Germany West, the scars of which are inde-
1914
history com- libly marked on the city. Parts of
DATES
mences. Even- the wall still stand at East Side
tual defeat in Gallery (page…), and the border
France, fleeing persecution and 1918 brings the crossing has been reproduced at
seeking refuge. To find out more bloody threat of civil war to the Checkpoint Charlie. GO TO PAGE 44
1685
about how streets of Berlin. Democracy is The government of East Ger-
OF
these French established at the Treaty of Ver- many (the GDR) collapses,
1989
Protestants inte- sailles in 1919 and the borders are
grated into Roaring Twenties are born. opened and the
German life, visit Gendarmen- Berlin is a cultural hotbed Wall is pulled
BERLIN
markt. GO TO PAGE 67 of architecture, film and down amid
Frederick II becomes King of literature. To find out more, visit great jubilation. Germany is not
Prussia. Frederick was a great The Film Museum (page…), The officially reunited until 1990 but
reformer and his reign sees the Bauhaus Archives (page…) or take the process has been established
period of history known as the a stroll around Potsdamer Platz. and, in doing so, a whole new era
Enlightenment start in Berlin long GO TO PAGE 73 is established. A symbol of this
1933
before it reached other parts of After fourteen new age of prosperity and growth
1237
First docu- Europe. His reforms revolutionised years of poli- can be seen at the Reichstag
mented men- the arts, politics and the legal tical instabi- (page…), which is now the seat
tion of Cölln, system which, along with his mili- lity, economic of the united German government.
a tiny island in tary prowess and master musi- disaster and mass impoverishment, GO TO PAGE 51
1740
the River Spree, and its cianship ear- democracy fails. Hitler becomes With economic prosperity and
neighbouring farm town of ned him the Chancellor of Germany and with political stability, Germany is
Berlin. It would be two hun- nickname him brings the horror and devas- emerging from the shadows of the
2012
dred years before the two ‘The Great.’ tation of Nazi Germany. The twentieth cen-
towns are amalgamated to form To see Berlin as Frederick the Great full scale of this dark period tury. Berlin is
one city. Although no longer a saw it, visit Unter Den Linden. can be found at the Topogra- co n s i d e re d
centre for shipping and trade, the GO TO PAGE 78 phy of Terror. GO TO PAGE 60 one of the
Spree still plays a vital role in Otto van Bismarck leads World War II has been fought hippest cities in Europe and its
Berlin’s economy as it attracts Germany to victory in the and lost. The resulting Battle of history, diverse culture and creative
1961
thousands of tourists every year. Franco-Prussian War. Germany is Berlin has left the arts scene attracts tourists from
To find out about boat tours on the officially united and Berlin is made city politically worldwide. There has truly never
River Spree. GO TO PAGE 113 the Imperial capital. The already and ideologi- been a better time to say “Ich bin ein
1871
With the Edict of Potsdam, flourishing cally divided Berliner.” GO TO PAGE 120 CATE HOPKINS
Germany becomes a Protestant city is now between the Allied Powers of Bri-
country. Berlin sees a huge influx a hub of tain, France, the USA and the
of Huguenot refugees from trade and USSR. This division is compounded
9 10

6. BERLIN : INS AND OUTS CITY GUIDE 2012 OUR SELECTION
24 HOURS IN
BRANDENBOURG GATE AT THE END OF UNTER DEN LINDEN
PAGE 42 HEAD TOWARDS
the neighbouring
Brandenburg Tor
whose magnificent
BERLIN
grandeur and iconic
REICHSTAG GLASS DOM presence is sure to me-
morise you for some time.
BY GREIG EASTON
WITH AN
OVERWHELMING
VARIETY OF PAGE 51 BEGIN THE DAY
ATTRACTIONS with an early rise in
order to beat the crowds
SCATTERED
to the breathtaking KAUF DICH GLÜCKLICH CAFE AND ICE CREAM SHOP
parliamentary facility,
the Reichstag.
THROUGHOUT UNTER DEN LINDEN AVENUE
BERLIN,
THIS ITINERARY
SELECTS
THE PICK-OF-
THE-BUNCH PAGE 143 FINISH THE DAY
FOR THOSE
PAGE 78 EAT FROM Einstein with a delicious waffles,
Café on Unter Der
Linden before tracking
mouth-watering crepes
WHOSE TIME back to immerse yourself
in the somewhat spooky
at Kauf Dich Glücklich.
IS LIMITED. Denkmal für die Ermor-
deten Juden Europas.
11 12

7. THE TITLE OF OUR GUIDE CONTRIBUTORS
Moving her way Media, Culture, and designer, architecture
from the quaint Society, she enjoys buff and queen of style.
village of Norton to the people watching and Originally from Buda-
bustling city of Man- spending the afternoon pest, she trained at the
chester, Abby came to with friends in Berlin’s prestigious Ecole D’Art
Berlin for a new adven- numerous outdoor et de Design D’Amiens
ture and has enjoyed spaces. You can find and adds Berlin to her
the endless entertain- her on Sundays in already extensive list of
ment this city has on Mauer Park where she cities that she has called
offer. A Manchester enjoys the flea market 27, PARIS home. An inveterate
21, MIDDLESBROUGHT Metropolitan graduate and the fine karaoke animal lover, Diana’s AGE, CITY
ABBY POULTON with a degree in crooners DIANA perfect day would be GREIG EASTON
SZENTGYÖRGYI spent at Berlin Zoo Greig, an interna-
Glamour puss Diana chilling with her four - tional business
Literature degree is far is our resident graphic legged friends student from Edin-
more than just her burgh, can usually be
vintage hat and tote found framing preten-
bag. Always up for a ‘bohemian chic’ style, tious photographs or
beer or five, Alicia has Sam is actually a well- dominating doner
enjoyed experiencing refined young man. kebabs. A master of the
the city’s night culture Having now settled Scottish vernacular, a
but never fails to attend down during the latter sip of a drink is a
AGE, CITY her morning language 29, CARDIFF weeks of his stay, the definite no, but a ‘wee
lessons. She is gifted not young women of Berlin swally’ is fine. He also
ALICIA RAMSAY only at writing but at CATE HOPKINS can now breathe a doesn’t do things by
This Aberdonian making friends with the Of all the cities Cate sigh of relief. When not halves. Whether it’s the
going into the last locals and haggling at has called home, it’s frolicking or picnicking sauces on his 15th
year of her English the Mauerpark market Berlin that has captures in one of Berlin’s many kebab of the week or
her heart. She fell in AGE, CITY parks, Sam’s input into his meticulous attitude
love with the Street art, SAM BAVIN the editorial process towards his writing,
CTR. When she isn’t gig- the coffee and the Despite his shabby, and layout has proved he wants it alles. Mit
gling or singing in her Kicking Russian Disko. unkempt beard and invaluablew pommes
‘opera trained voice’, Her Berlin highlight was
Jess enjoys relaxing in partying in a thunder
Berlin’s many cafes with storm at Werschauer 23, SEATTLE of the many Shisha
tea and cake, or soa-
king up the nightlife with
strasse U bahn station.
She returns to Cardiff to
JAMES STORBECK bars around the city
while sampling a
AGE, CITY
a brandy. She is also a continue her studies in ‘The Bear’ has finally German beer or twelve.
JESS CROPPER dab hand at rowing a Journalism and Media, made it to Berlin, and However we are still
Jess, or ‘Big Jess’ boat and can seriously but will carry Berlin’s he is enjoying every waiting for him to
as she is known, pop some shapes on the spirit of freedom with minute of it. You can conjure up the courage
has been a vital asset to dancefloor her wherever she goes find him frequenting one to try a Currywurst
153 154

8. THE TITLE OF OUR GUIDE CONTRIBUTORS
This young strap- for the kettle to boil or and teeth whiteners are
ping 22 year-old checking the team sheet all applied vigorously
is not afraid to get for the upcoming Fener- – that Tim’s day can
stuck in. Very creative bahce fixture he’s at his really begin. Emotionally
and contributes much favourite local kebab oversensitive, Tim takes
to discussion, he took shop Haci Baba, tuc- great pleasure from some
the lead on the hidden king into a monstrous of life’s more refined
gems section as well as Döner. Despite being pleasures. When he’s not
carrying out interviews an amateur at the game writing poetry about the
AGE, CITY 22, PERTH
for the Berl-insider of fives he’s been a beating of a butterflie’s
AGE, CITY
snippets. The tea-ma- pleasure to work, live TIM BLORE tiny wings, Tim’s joyful SIAN SUGARS
king titan of the group, and share a footbath Its only upon com- nature and wit, combi- BeaHailing from
JOSEF LINNHOFF when he’s not waiting with. Top lad. pletion of his 40 ned with his input into Perth, Australia,
minute daily bathroom the museums section, has Sian has circumnavi-
regime – where moistu- made him an invaluable gated the globe. As
23, MINNEAPOLIS
rizers, tanning agents member of the team part of her Psycho-
KATE NEUSWANGER logy degree from the
Hailing from Min- University of Western
neapolis, Minnesota, gregarious Glaswegian Australia, she studied
Kate studied for her and a key team member. for a semester in Ame-
degree at Iowa State Not only a talented rica, and later lived in
University. Studying writer, Lisa is also a pro London – yet she still
Nutrition only served at posing for pictures maintains that Berlin
to enhance her love in photobooths, singing has felt most like home.
for all things food rela- way she has expressed karaoke and dancing Find her cracking open
AGE, CITY
ted. Whilst in Berlin, this within the guide. until the sun comes up. a beer in Görlitzer Park,
JESS COLE she has explored all In her own words,
AGE, CITY
Lisa is at her happiest looking every inch the
Jess is a lover, not aspects of the different the most important thing when eating ice-cream, native Kreuzberger
a hater. She loves cuisines available and she has learnt in Berlin LISA JAHANARAI on a bike, listening to
Berlin, beer and writing has managed to make is that ‘There’s nothing Lisa, an English Lite- Prince and swigging
articles. She also used mouths water with the worse than a dry wurst’ rature student, is a strawberry beer
to love kebabs, a lot.
Unfortunately this is no
longer the case. She AGE, CITY St Andrew’s University German on the locals,
loves lazing about in ELSA MCBRIDE where she studies Elsa can be found
the sun and partying till Elsa comes from Literature and Art dancing ‘til sunrise in
the moon goes down. grassy Edinburgh History. Elsa is an one of Berlin’s trendy
This English graduate to return to Berlin incredibly talented night clubs. She loves
from Chichester has for her second time illustrator and her the city for it’s unpre-
been quite a lot of fun, in as many years. artistic skills have been tentious attitude that
24, SHEFFIELD
managing to work hard She is about to enter an asset to the team If encourages everyone
AND play hard her second year at she’s not practising her to come as they are ADAM NASH
155 156

9. BERLIN : INS AND OUTS CITY GUIDE 2012
THE BEAR,
SYMBOL
READ ABOUT THE MOTHER AND
DAUGHTER BEAR PAIR, MAXI AND
SCHNUTE IN OUR HIDDEN GEM’S
‘DOWN TO KÖLLNISCHER PARK’
ON PAGE 78
OF THE CITY
157 158