2. THE FIRST ISSUE OF VOGUE saw the light in 1892
in America.
In 1909 the magazine was acquired by Conde Naste
Publishers.The magazine’s volume became thicker
and its main focus was turned on women. Natural-
ly, the price was raised as well.
In 1916, when the First World War made impossi-
ble Vogue deliveries to the Old World, the printing
was started in England.This decision proved to be
successful and 1920 the first issue of French Vogue
was released.
In1932 the American Vogue for the first time ever
had placed a color photography on its cover (earli-
er it was exclusively given for drawings). Since that
time the World’s best photographers - Irwin Penn
and Guy Burden, Richard Avedon and Norman
Parkinson, Helmut Newton and Peter Lindberg -
became Vogue’s contributors.
In 1960-s the American Vogue under the leader-
ship of Diana Vriland had become the symbol of
a new era – more creative, emancipated and sexy.
Another important period in American Vogue his-
tory began in 1988, when Anna Wintour became
its Chief Editor. Her talent, will and efficiency, re-
flected in The Devil Wears Prada movie, had final-
ly turned Vogue into Nr1 Fashion Magazine of the
World, not just reflecting fashion trends, but effec-
tively shaping them.
the
Beginning
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1920s
The
Illustrated
Cover
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definition of
vogue/vog/
noun
the prevailing fashion or
style at a particular time.
adjective
popular; fashionable.
verb
dance to music in such a
way as to imitate the char-
acteristic poses struck by a
model on a catwalk.
Among the most prominent Amer-
ican illustrators of the first period
were George Plank, Helen Dryden,
E. M. A. Steinmetz, Frank X. Ley-
endecker, Irma Campbell, Strau
Davis, F. Earl Christy, H. Heyer,
and Vivian Valdaire. These were–
just as Nast intended–the exclusive
group that gave character and per-
sonality to the most important ele-
ment of the issue.The women they
immortalized were soft, elegant,
with mystirious eyes and alluring
smiles. But the most attractive
staging of the illustrations accom-
plished one executive funtion:
TO REPORT ON FASHION
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Of all the artisit, two stood out
the most, both for their quality
of their work and for the close-
ness of their association with
Vogue.These were George Park
, who remained with Vogue
the longest (1911-27), and Hel-
en Dryden (1912-23). The work
produced by others where styl-
ish and decorative that were
very beautiful and formal, but
they were published only spo-
radically. Whereas Plank and
Drden truly left their mark.
Vogue became a witness to
new trends. Although its cov-
ers did not have headlines,
the illustrations conveyed the
news, which might be any-
thing that was happening
in style and culture. If there
where women in hats on the
cover, it was to announce new
styles in millinery. If the draw-
ing showed women with deep
decolletage or markedly short-
er skirts. it was because these
necklines or hemlines were
being seen in Europe.
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utre
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DREAMS
AND FANTASIES
Plank almost always illustrated haute
couture as fantasy. He used the
Milky Way as the background for a
striking cover in 1912, and a starry
sky cover in 1921. Other illustrations
of Plank from 1920 present figures
in opulent covers from 1920 exotic
clothing and hairstyles. His illustra-
tions reflected an endlessly alluring
world of luxusry.
SOCIETY AND
ELEGANT SETTINGS
All of Helen Dryden’s illustrations
are highly decorative and cheer-
ful. A recurring theme in her work
is the well-read women of fashion,
who is seen reading in her garden,
or under the trees, or an elegant sea-
sonal setting.
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litterati
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