1. We get personal with six skincare
geniuses who are working it for
your complexion.
OCTOBER 2013 / GLOW / 19
MEETTHE
SKINPROS
INSIDER SPECIAL:
They’re behind the scenes, sometimes wearing
lab coats, other times designer duds. They
go through hordes of scientific data, tests and
clinical trials. They travel the globe to sell
their products and sift through ingredients we
can’t pronounce. They tinker with molecules
to discover which ones will have the greatest
impact on our skin. They are scientists,
biologists, advisers and marketers—exceptional
communicators—and they are the brains
behind the creams, lotions and serums we
slather on our skin.
Here at Glow, we show our appreciation for
them by sharing what makes them tick, along
with the latest product launches for which we’ll
all be lining up.
beauty
view
PHOTO:TRUNKARCHIVE/DONNATROPE

2. MAY 2012 / GLOW / 21
beauty
insider
20 / GLOW / OCTOBER 2013
Anti-inflammatories
reducerednesswhile
antioxidantsrepair
damage.SkynIceland
ArcticElixer,$72
(availableatmurale.ca)
PRODUCT:CARLOMENDOZA.ICELAND,Galapagos:ISTOCKPHOTO.COM.bellphoto:philbolt
Some people thrive on stress.
Others crumble under it. And some use
it to change their lives, as in the case of
49-year-old entrepreneur Sarah Kugelman.
The blonde, youthful New Yorker founded
Skyn Iceland—a company whose products
address the effects of stress on skin—in
2004, after a series of illnesses landed her
in the hospital. This prompted some major
soul-searching.
“I’d been struggling with my health for
years, and it all linked back to stress and my
inability to really manage [it] in my life,”
says Kugelman, who was working as a vice-
president at Estée Lauder prior to launching
her skincare brand. But she had spent years
before that being busy: She earned an MBA
at Columbia Business School in 1989 and
then networked her way into a demanding
role at L’Oréal Paris as assistant brand
manager, focusing on the company’s skincare
line, in 1992.
Following L’Oréal and a successful stint at
Bath & Body Works in Columbus, Ohio, she
relocated to San Francisco to work as Banana
Republic’s director of marketing. While
most people would be satisfied with such
a speedy career advancement, Kugelman
was determined to take things even further.
In 1999, she launched the pioneering beauty
e-commerce site gloss.com, which she sold
a year later to Estée Lauder. This go-getter
attitude was great for her career, but it was
taking a serious toll on her health: She was
exhausted and suffered from weight gain,
poor short-term memory and a lack of focus,
plus skin problems such as cystic acne, hives
and accelerated signs of aging, like wrinkles
and dull skin.
“When I finally landed in a hospital, I had
time to think about whether this was really
the way I wanted to live the rest of my life.
I got in touch with my mortality and realized
that I didn’t want
THE COMEBACK KID:
Sarah Kugelman
“Icelandwasrelaxing
andpureandsort
ofuntouchedby
modernlife.”
“I’dliketoraisethebar
aroundhowpeople
thinkaboutthelevelof
proofweneedtoprovide
behindproducts.”
BY KAREN KWAN
BootsNo7Protect&PerfectIntense
Serum,$29,fightswrinkles;Lift&
LuminateDayCreamSPF15,$26,tackles
deeperlines,andliftsandfirmsskin.
THE ALL-STAR:
MIKE BELL
BY GABRIELLE JOHNSON
to drive myself into the ground,” recalls
Kugelman. “When you’re always tired and
stressed and have no energy, it’s really hard
to enjoy life. I just didn’t want to feel like that
anymore.”
What came next was a total health
makeover. Kugelman banished white flour,
sugar and alcohol from her diet, took up yoga
and had acupuncture treatments, and learned
to slow down—sort of. “I took three months
off to get better, and I started travelling and
going to places that felt healthy and clean,”
she says. “That’s when I discovered Iceland.”
Kugelman had already been thinking
about launching a line of stress-combating
skincare products that would focus on
acne, irritation and aging (the skin woes she
personally struggled with) and it was during
her week-long visit to the Nordic country
that everything fell into place.
“I was excited to go to a place that was
healthy without being ‘crunchy,’” she says. “It
was relaxing and pure and sort of untouched
by modern life.” Hiking to the top of the
Mýrdalsjökull glacier proved especially
inspiring. “When you’re on top of that glacier,
you feel like you’re on the moon. It’s like a
different world—so beautiful it
takes your breath away…I not
only ended up incorporating
ingredients from Iceland into the
products, but also creating a name
that was Icelandic: ‘Skyn’ means
‘sense’ in Icelandic.”
Mýrdalsjökull glacier,
where Kugelman had
her “aha” moment.
Boots No7 had been an adored beauty
name in its native U.K. for more than 70
years when, in 2007, its reputation was given
a phenomenal lift. A BBC documentary
declared the brand’s Protect & Perfect
Beauty Serum the only over-the-counter
product that demonstrated true anti-aging
benefits. After the doc aired, masses of Brits
swarmed Boots locations to get their hands
on the serum, resulting in long lineups and
wait-lists—at one point, one bottle sold
every 1.3 seconds. Two years later, Boots
introduced its Protect & Perfect Intense
Beauty Serum, and a one-year study at the
University of Manchester delivered more
stunning news.
“We fell off our stools,” says Mike Bell,
a Boots scientific skincare advisor and one
of the geniuses behind the Intense serum. “It
was to become the first cosmetic anti-aging
product that had ever been shown [in an
independent trial] to repair aged skin in
such a way, and it led to one of the most
cited publications in the British Journal of
Dermatology.”
So, how does Bell, who joined Boots in
2007, go about creating a skincare miracle?
“My work would appear to be pretty
random to many people,” says the 43-year-
old father of two. “As a scientist, many would
think I’m locked away in a lab.” But his role
actually calls for him to don many hats.
“I could be setting up research programs
with dermatologists one minute, talking to
marketing about a new product idea the next
and then talking to journalists about the
launch of the latest skincare innovation.”
Bell’s love of science extends back to his
childhood. “My parents would drag me and
my brother and my sister to nature reserves
and through the woods and to the rivers, and
because they were fascinated by nature, it
rubbed off on me,” he explains. Rather than
become a conservationist and lead his life
outdoors, though, he pursued pharmacology
and neurobiology. After graduating, he
Bell’s nature fix: the ethereal
Galápagos Islands.
worked for Proctor & Gamble before stepping
away from his job for a while to pursue some
other passions. He and his wife wanted to see
the world and travelled for a year, he says.
“Going to the Galápagos Islands was very
important to me.”
After his travels, Bell became a secondary
school science teacher. “It taught me how to
make the science easy to understand,” he says,
“and it’s something I take with me when I’m
talking to consumers and journalists about the
science that we do.”
When he’s not doing his part to help
create Boots’ next miracle product, this
unconventional biologist sings—in a
barbershop quartet, no less. His musical
palate ranges from Pharrell Williams to opera
to Electric Light Orchestra, so one might
imagine Bell whistling while he works. “I am
happiest when I’m singing, but I do this usually
when nobody else can hear me,” he says.
“In our lab, it was quite a long time before
I realized the glass was not quite as soundproof
as I had thought!”
With future product launches, Bell hopes to
leave a legacy in the world of skincare: “I’d like
to raise the bar around how people think about
the level of [scientific] proof we need to provide
behind products,” he says.
Will Boots No7 have another knock-it-out-
of-park product on its hands? Bell certainly
hopes so.
The businesswoman partnered with a
like-minded chemist in New Jersey to create
the brand’s first seven products, which are
paraben-free and include gentle, natural
anti-inflammatories such as white willow
bark. Kugelman admits to “[falling] in love”
whenever she develops a new product; right
now, Pure Cloud Cream, a daily moisturizer,
is her favourite. “It has the most amazing
texture,” she says. “It’s a very wet cream, so
when it first goes on, it feels like a burst of
hydration. But the cream is also very light,
airy and spongy.”
This fall, Skyn Iceland is adding Arctic
Elixir (a serum that contains raspberry
stem cells and plant peptides to reduce the
appearance of wrinkles in 30 minutes) and
Fresh Start Mask (a detoxifying clay mask
made with 13,000-year-old mud) to its
extensive line of stress-fighters.
So, how does Kugelman handle the
pressure of running her own show? “I have
a six-year-old daughter.... I used to work all
day, all night, and I can’t do that now because
I don’t want to be a mother who’s never
around.” She adds, “I’m still not perfect at
managing my stress, but I can identify when
I’m getting really stressed and force myself
to take a time out: sleeping more, eating
differently, getting to the gym, booking
a massage, doing a session of acupuncture,
seeing a holistic health practitioner. It’s having
the right tools and resources to know how to
manage that stress when things get intense.”

3. beauty
insider
22 / GLOW / OCTOBER 2013
PRODUCT:CARLOMENDOZA.MAMMONEPHOTO:COURTESYOFCLINIQUE.JOURDAN:COURTESYOFBIODERMA
Backuchiol,aplantfoundin
India,helpstreatspotsand
blackheads,andreducesthe
riskofacnescarring. Bioderma
SébiumGlobalIntensive
PurifyingCare,$23
Some kids dream of being an astronaut
or a pro athlete. But Eric Jourdan knew he
was destined to tinker with the human body.
“When I was young, I had a curiosity about
the solar system and how that works,” he says,
over the phone from Lyon, France. “It quickly
grew to the body and how it—the brain, heart,
lungs, skin—along with billions of cells and
little proteins, all manage to work together.”
While his career path may be a sad loss
for the solar system, our skin is now the
beneficiary of Jourdan’s change of heart. As
the director of scientific affairs at Bioderma,
a French skincare brand that’s earned a cult
following for its amazingly gentle cleansers
(Canadian supermodels Daria Werbowy
and Jessica Stam are fans), it seems he has
fulfilled his boyhood dream. Renowned in the
dermatology field, Bioderma is a 36-year-old
company that specializes in serving up a mix
of dermatology with biology concepts—a
cocktail that’s right up Jourdan’s alley.
In charge of a vast network of scientists,
researchers and pharmacists in France,
Germany, Italy, Croatia and Japan, he is
tasked with organizing and interpreting
the scientific discoveries of his team.
The collective effort led to Bioderma’s first
global hit in 1991, Sensibio H2O, the first
single-step cleanser that doesn’t require water.
It proved to be a revolutionary product—one
bottle is sold every six seconds. The brand’s
newest entry is Sébium Global Intensive
Purifying Care, a spot treatment for blemish-
prone types.
Jourdan jokes that the biology of skin was
in his genes, yet it didn’t come from his
parents. “They were not scientists—they
worked for the government. It was my own
idea,” he says, laughing.
THE SKIN
BIOLOGIST:
ERIC JOURDAN
THE FORMULATOR:
TOM MAMMONE
BY GABRIELLE JOHNSON
Not all teenage boys spend
their spare time playing video games
or pretending to be rock stars. When
Tom Mammone was 13, he was busy
devouring the contents of the local
public library, feeding his mind with
every book he could get his hands on—
in alphabetical order.
Now known as Dr. Mammone, he is
the executive director of skin physiology
and pharmacology at Clinique. He
credits a book about the science behind
aging with kick-starting an interest
that would eventually determine his
career path. But when he talks about
his adolescent precociousness, there’s
no trace of pride. “I was pretty boring,”
he says. “I was one of those kids who
had a laboratory in the basement
with chemicals and was blowing the
circuit breaker and burning things.
My parents say
that they were
pretty worried
about me, that I was going to grow up to be
something weird.”
Mammone also remains resolutely
down-to-earth, possibly due to his humble
beginnings at Clinique. “I started out as
a dishwasher,” he admits. “I was in college
and I wanted to learn about tissue culture,
and they needed a dishwasher here in the
labs. So I got a part-time job to come in and
wash glassware.” While completing a PhD in
molecular and cellular biology, and an MBA,
he continued to work there, steadily making
his way up the corporate ladder.
Today, Mammone is one of Clinique’s
top research and development scientists,
responsible for finding innovative ingredients
and technologies that play a part in the
well-loved brand’s must-have products. In
addition to helping establish a number of new
labs within the company, including the Skin
Biology Lab (which studies skin in order to
create more effective products),
the Natural Products Lab
(which studies and improves
upon natural ingredients)
and the Skin Physiology and
Pharmacology Lab (which
studies the structure of skin),
the 51-year-old New York
native also plays a pivotal role
in bringing new or revamped
products to market.
Glycerin,hyaluronic
acidandureawerethe
tophydratingwinners
addedtoClinique
DramaticallyDifferent
MoisturizingLotion+,
$32for125ml
“Iwasoneofthose
kidswhohada
laboratoryinthe
basement...My
parentssaythey
wereprettyworried
aboutme.”
22 / GLOW / OCTOBER 2013
BY TRACEY HO LUNG

4. beauty
insider
24 / GLOW / OCTOBER 2013
PRODUCTPHOTO:CARLOMENDOZA.CAMELLIA:ISTOCKPHOTO.COM
BY TANIA KWONG
Essentialoilsfromlemon,
camelliaandbabassu
combinewithanti-aging
molecules.Lancôme
AbsolueSublime
RegeneratingOleo-
Serum, $190
THE MULTITASKER:
Véronique Delvigne
Continued from page 22
By the time she arrives at work, Véronique
Delvigne has already clocked considerable time
at her other job: being a wife and mother of two.
Even though her husband and children can take
care of themselves (her son is 20, her daughter
is 17), the scientific director of Lancôme insists
on fixing them breakfast and taking her youngest
to school. Getting by on four or five hours
of sleep doesn’t faze her, nor does the unrelenting
itinerary of travel, working in Lancôme’s labs, and
marketing, training and PR meetings.
Delvigne is a prime example of a modern
woman who has achieved a balance of professional
and personal success. “We [women] have to work
harder and create our jobs and our positions,” she
says. But she sees hope. For 15 years, L’Oréal’s
For Women in Science Program—in partnership
with UNESCO (the United Nations Educational,
Scientific and Cultural Organization)—has
helped cultivate budding female researchers from
around the world, as well as shine a spotlight on
those to watch. “In the past, we used to say that
science isn’t a job
for women,” she
says, “but women
are very good in
this field because
they’re clever,
well organized
and demanding.”
“Icannourish
myfamily...
withwhatI’m
seeingand
feelingwhenI’m
travelling.”
The proverbial juggling act is something
Delvigne has refined at home and at work. “I’m
a translator,” she says, in her chic French accent.
“I’m in between the business, the consumer and
the science, trying to create a link between all of
these fields.”
But ultimately, Delvigne is working for women
seeking great skin. “The objective is to always
deliver higher performance, and the performance
is based on science,” she says.
Enter Lancôme’s new Absolue Sublime
Regenerating Oleo-Serum, the brand’s first-ever
product in which oils commingle with active
ingredients. Delvigne describes it as “kind of
a rescue product.”
Chatting with Delvigne certainly isn’t like
talking to a typical scientist. Sure, she has
a PhD in skin biology, but she doesn’t leave you
scratching your head. It has taken her 25 years,
though, to become the business savant she is today.
As a student, she started out as a lab researcher
at L’Oréal and, at 27, she was approached to be
a point person between the labs and the brands.
You can sense the passion, which she attributes in
part to her parents. “[They] gave me an open
mind and a proposal: ‘Take your chances, feel
what you’re ready to do, and go ahead and find
your own way.’”
When not jet-setting around the globe for work,
Delvigne looks forward to sharing her experiences
while breaking bread with her brood. “Here in
France, it’s important to share lunch or dinner,
and to have this time together to talk about what’s
happening in our lives,” she says. “I can nourish
my family—especially my children—with what
I’m seeing and feeling when I’m travelling.”
After all, making connections is her raison d’être.
Oilfromthe
camellia
floweris
oneof
Lancôme’s
natural
skin-savers.
A recent—and rather daunting—
challenge was upgrading the formula
of one of Clinique’s most iconic
products: the Dramatically Different
Moisturizing Lotion (DDML), an
Easter-yellow facial moisturizer that
was launched in 1968 and has been
a worldwide bestseller ever since. “If
you had a beautiful Maserati and you
decided to take the motor apart and
tinker with it, what would make you
do that?” says Mammone. “DDML
is a phenomenal product. We sell
a bottle of it every five seconds. My
mother loves it, and I didn’t want to
be the one to change it and have her
call me and say, ‘What did you do?!’”
Luckily, he and his team were
up to the task. After years of
experimentation, they finally
arrived at the formula that would
become Dramatically Different
Moisturizing Lotion+. By adding
glycerin, hyaluronic acid and urea—
ingredients that attract moisture and
help the skin hold onto it—they were
able to double the moisturization
levels of the original. The resulting
lightweight lotion (identical to
DDML’s silky texture) packs a serious
punch of hydration and helps protect
the skin from environmental stressors
like pollution.
The next major venture for
Mammone and his colleagues is
makeup with skincare benefits,
a trend in the beauty market that’s
been percolating over the past decade.
Clinique’s Even Better Makeup
SPF 15 and BB and CC creams are
“just the tip of the iceberg,” he says,
adding that the brand’s labs are busy
dreaming up products like lipstick
and eyeshadow that also offer
skincare benefits.
In the meantime, DDML+ has
already received rave reviews from
long-time fans of its predecessor,
including one very important
customer. “My mother is happy, thank
God,” says Mammone. “I can’t have
her yelling at me.”

5. YesToGrapefruitCorrectand
Repair DailyFacialScrub,
$12,and DarkSpotCorrecting
Serum,$21,improvethe
appearanceofsundamageand
unevenskintone.
26 / GLOW / OCTOBER 2013
LEFFLERPHOTO:ERINKUNKEL.PRODUCTS:CARLOMENDOZA.SANFRANCISCO:ISTOCKPHOTO.COM
THE YES MAN:
IDO LEFFLER
BY TRACEY HO LUNG
beauty
insider
“Weexpectthat
everythingwebuy
hasnocompromise
toitandnatural
beautyshouldbea
partofthat.”
Ido Leffler advocates a healthy,
organic lifestyle, but he doesn’t look like—
nor is he—a West Coast hippie, despite
calling San Francisco home. “I call us
the ‘compromise-free generation,’” he says
of himself and the people who share his
philosophy. “We’ve come to expect that
everything we buy has no compromise to it
and natural beauty should be a part of that.”
Upon meeting Leffler, the 36-year-old
co-founder of Yes To, it’s clear he’s got insight
and energy to spare. Sporting an orange
sweater (he’s worn the colour every day
since the company’s first meeting), he has
an even brighter demeanour. Leffler is the
brand’s global ambassador, whose positive
attitude represents the Yes To
lifestyle. “That person loves to
be outdoors, try new things and
loves to discover that hole-in-the-
wall restaurant in the middle of
nowhere,” he explains. “It’s my
personal goal to live that mission.”
That mission began with
co-founder Lance Kalish.
The two met while attending
Australia’s University of Technology, Sydney,
in 1997, after which they opened an export
consultancy firm for health and beauty
companies. Along the way they noticed that
all-natural products weren’t buzzing in the
marketplace as loudly as they thought they
should. Taking a chance, the partners sold
their company to create Yes To Carrots
in 2006. The marquee placement of the
beloved root vegetable in their brand’s
name was inspired by a store manager who
mentioned there were no beauty products
available with beta-carotene, a skin-friendly
antioxidant. From there, the duo decided
they would focus on common, easily
identifiable ingredients with skincare
benefits. “Every one of our fruits and
vegetables...[are what] people have in their
fridges,” says Leffler. “We didn’t want to
be totally out-there and call it Yes To some
random Amazonian berry.”
In quick succession, new Yes To
ingredients made their debut: cucumber to
hydrate sensitive skin, blueberries to firm
and tighten, and tomatoes to freshen up
acne-prone and combination skin. The latest
line, Yes To Grapefruit (face scrub, spot-
correcting serum, eye cream and towelettes),
promotes a bright and even skin tone using
citrus flavonoids.
Only seven years after its launch, Yes To
is available around the globe, and celebrities
such as Zoe Saldana and Rosario Dawson
have declared themselves fans. (Evidently,
it’s hard to say no to Leffler’s force-of-nature
charisma and infectious grin.) Along with
Yes To’s growth, the natural-beauty biz
overall is surging, with an annual revenue
projection of $6.7 billion by 2015.
One thing is certain: Leffler practices
what he preaches. He helped create the
Yes To Seed fund, which plants vegetable
gardens throughout the U.S. as a means
of teaching kids about where their food
comes from. Meanwhile, the Yes To Hope
campaign helps establish micro-farms
in Kenya and
Tanzania that feed
local communities.
Currently, it feeds
more than 10,000
children a day.
Closer to home,
Leffler grows his
own fruits and
vegetables in a large
organic garden and surrounding orchard in
his backyard. “We are very much a farm-to-
table family,” he says of his household.
Asked if he ever says no, Leffler laughs.
“If you ask my two-year-old, I say no all
the time.”
Leffler’s lifestyle: enjoying the sights of
San Franciso and making healthy choices.
Visit glow.ca for a chance
to win a Yes To prize pack.
GLOW EXTRA: