1. A Fashion Merchandisers Role in Sustainability
Thomas McDonald
FMM-325
Southern New Hampshire University
2. How can Fashion Merchandisers find a way to adapt our industry to become more self-
reliant and use less resources while continuing to increase sales? As we look into the future of
the fashion industry, the concept of buying products has begun to lead us into a straining of the
resources required to manufacture, distribute and sell this merchandise. The trend towards
sustainability is not a passing fad, many people in this industry see this as a means to sustain
long term growth in the fashion industry. Several merchants and designers are adopting concepts
of sustainability and adaptability into their business plans; however, buyers target success by
being able to acquire goods for sale at the best prices possible. However, the demand for
renewable and alternative materials from governments and consumers is on the increase which
makes marketing sustainable practices by retailers and their manufacturers a greater necessity.
Employees play a big role in the marketing success of sustainable products, and making sure the
merchandisers and buyers are ahead of the curve is important (Conroy, A. 2008). Currently, there
are several industry as well as educational program out there that provide information and
instruction in sustainability. You may have employees that are already savvy in sustainability;
however, the buyer that purchases denim for 20 years may not have much background on what is
happening with sustainability in denim manufacture. The goal will be to convince them to buy
more sustainable denim fashions. The objective is for the Merchandiser to communicate to
Fashion Buyers that sustainability is not just a passing trend but the future of fashion and retail
going forward and making a sustainability campaign a reality.
The first factor that merchandiser can use to convince a buyer to buy more eco-friendly
products is profitability. Whereas other socially marketing events will do not provide a direct
positive impact. Selling products that were made with recycled materials or made by companies
that practice eco-friendly manufacturing policies are the only kind of social initiative that show
3. up directly in the bottom line (Mukumbi, K. 2013). Companies that buy products that have
recycled materials will often find that cause they used less resources to be manufactured,
recycled products. These products often allow the manufacturer a higher return on their
investment and in turn they will pass it along to their vendors. Effective marketing of these items
will turn sales of eco-friendly products into profits. The way to begin this effective marketing is
to appoint someone in your organization to focus on demand enhancement, communicate
improvements in sustainability, and make those efforts a priority (Silberman, J. 2012).
The second factor overall to provide greater sustainability for companies, their
merchandisers and the buyers is pressure from governments and consumers who are wanting
greater responsibility from manufacturers and vendors (Miller D., Merrilees B., 2013).
Governments around the world not just in developed countries but developing countries like
China are beginning to see impacts manufacturing has on the environment globally and in their
own back yards. Consumers are also becoming more socially conscious about the effect
manufacturing as a whole has on our environment and are beginning to demand more eco-
friendly solutions. The result of this that companies are now seeking to utilize sustainability as a
means to have a competitive advantage (Bartels, G. C., & Nelissen, W., 2002) as companies
beginning to have socially and environmentally conscious consumers become target customers.
In order to work these customers, the companies need to perceive that these in order to market to
them successful (Seretny, M., & Seretny, A. 2012). Companies will eventually need to market
their products based on the value systems of the consumers and the governments that represent
them.
The third factor is quality of the product, the old stigmatisms was that the recycled
products did not have the same quality or were being manufactured by companies that could not
4. manufacture the quantities needed to sustain the market (Rose, L. L., 2012, Feb 21). The number
of manufacturer’s that have sustainability initiatives increase every year. Ecco Domani started
theirs in 2008 (Karimzadeh, M., 2008). Timberland followed with its Earthkeepers line of men’s
shoes and boots (Timberland, 2009). Timberland shoes and boots were the first in the industry to
be designed to be completely disassembled for recycling. Even designers like Thom Felicia,
Stella McCartney and Fashion Houses like Alexander McQueen, Coach and Givenchy have
embraced the concepts of sustainability. Not only do manufacturers embrace sustainability
practices, those who provide raw materials like cotton (Ha-Brookshire, J., & Norum, P., 2011).
Even manufacturers such as Polartec and the North Face work together on the concept of
sustainability. The popular Denali winter jacket made by North Face uses recycled Polartec
fleece (Brickfish, 2009). Eco-friendly merchandise is all around but the buyer may not be
convinced being eco-conscious is the best thing, this is where the merchandiser can be of help to
buyer in convincing them to buy.
With these three factors involved in how a company can provide greater sustainability,
then there is a compelling case for sustainability; however, what is the best way to get everyone
in merchandise buying to buy and merchandise more eco-friendly products? The process should
be more through than just having a merchandiser trying to convince a buyer to buy sustainable
merchandise for sale. All employees are made aware of the importance why companies become
socially responsible. When it comes time to beginning the ordering process for the next season,
everyone involved in the process of developing a sustainable merchandise policy meets to
discuss where they can find companies that are providing sustainable practices. In order to
demonstrate the current impact of sustainability, the Merchandiser and the Buyer begin to
explore what the denim manufacturers the buyer purchases are already doing (Bartels, G. C., &
5. Nelissen, W., 2002). When the first vendor they research is Levi’s shows that since 2011 Levi’s
has instituted sustainability concerning use of resources (Ashkin, S. P. 2012). Levi’s currently
has a sustainability program that includes having supplies grow organic cotton with no
pesticides, and works with several initiative groups including the Better Cotton Inititive and
(BICEP) Business for Innovative Climate and Energy Policy and is looking to work with
vendors for a better sustainability (Silberman, J., 2012). Several other companies we purchase
denim from also believe in Corporate Social Responsibility and have marketing programs in
place. These companies that have well known sustainability programs include Phillips Van
Heusen, Nautica and Timberland. The Buyer now sees that several of the products they buy are
already utilizing sustainability practices and now is able to work with the vendors in finding
those items that benefit from sustainability practices.
Buyers by practice are focused on buying products for sale at the best price possible, this
doesn’t mean they cannot find products that do not use sustainable practices in their production.
Many companies today have sustainability plans already implemented that are already helping
reduce the impacts production have on the environment. The positive impacts these policies have
bring positive responses from the public and governments looking to make the world a cleaner
place. Also the bottom line for the company gets a boost as on the one hand production costs are
reduced making products cheaper in the long run as well as having attracting customers to buy
more products over time. Buyers can play a greater role for companies when they are a part of
the sustainability program and can be the link between companies in coordinating intercompany
initiatives. The result of this is the Merchandiser in the end may have been successful in
convincing the buyer to buy sustainably produced items even before he started, they might just
not been aware they are already buying them.
6. Resources:
Conroy, A. (2008). Marketing sustainability. Greenhouse Grower, 26(4), S8-S9. Retrieved from
http://ezproxy.snhu.edu/login?url=http://search.proquest.com/docview/217043809?accountid=37
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Mukumbi, K. (2013). Drivers of investment in corporate sustainability strategies of retailers and
manufacturers in developed and developing countries. (Order No. 3565378, Michigan State
University). ProQuest Dissertations and Theses, , 169. Retrieved from
http://ezproxy.snhu.edu/login?url=http://search.proquest.com/docview/1413319895?accountid=3
783. (1413319895).
Silberman, J. (2012). Demand enhancement: The new sustainability. Cotton International
Magazine, , 34. Retrieved from
http://ezproxy.snhu.edu/login?url=http://search.proquest.com/docview/926243847?accountid=37
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Dale Miller, Bill Merrilees, (2013) "Linking retailer corporate brand and environmental
sustainability practices", Journal of Product & Brand Management, Vol. 22 Iss: 7, pp.437 – 443
Retrieved from
http://www.emeraldinsight.com.ezproxy.snhu.edu/journals.htm?articleid=17100973
Cao, H., Lisa, V. F., Farr, C. A., & Gam, H. (2006). An environmental sustainability course for
design and merchandising students. Journal of Family and Consumer Sciences, 98(2), 75-80.
Retrieved from
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7. Karimzadeh, M. (2008). Ecco domani adds sustainability to fashion foundation program. WWD,
196(12), 15-n/a. Retrieved from
http://ezproxy.snhu.edu/login?url=http://search.proquest.com/docview/231221637?accountid=37
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The timberland company; timberland takes sustainability one giant step forward with its first
recyclable footwear. (2009). Journal of Technology, , 397. Retrieved from
http://ezproxy.snhu.edu/login?url=http://search.proquest.com/docview/208586045?accountid=37
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Ha-Brookshire, J., & Norum, P. (2011). Cotton and sustainability. International Journal of
Sustainability in Higher Education, 12(4), 369-380.
doi:http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/14676371111168287
Bartels, G. C., & Nelissen, W. (2002). Marketing for Sustainability : Towards Transactional
Policy-making. Amsterdam: IOS.
Seretny, M., & Seretny, A. (2012). Sustainable marketing - a new era in the responsible
marketing development. Foundations of Management, 4(2), 63.
doi:http://dx.doi.org/10.2478/v10238-012-0011-1
Rose, L. L. (2012, Feb 21). Eco-friendly designs seek to leave stylish green imprint on fashion
industry. The Canadian Press. Retrieved from
http://ezproxy.snhu.edu/login?url=http://search.proquest.com/docview/923212933?accountid=37
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Brickfish(R); the north face(R) and polartec(R) launch social media campaign to promote green
living. (2009). Telecommunications Business, , 88. Retrieved from
8. http://ezproxy.snhu.edu/login?url=http://search.proquest.com/docview/216966945?accountid=37
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Ashkin, S. P. (2012). THE CHOICE IS YOURS. Industrial Safety & Hygiene News, 46(10), 60.
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