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CONTENTS
ORIENTATION
-Survival guide.........................7-9`
TRANSPORT
-Airports..................................12
-U-bahn/ S-bahn/ Trams..........12-13
-Buses......................................13
-Tickets....................................13-14
HISTORY AND CONTEXT
-National Socialism.................. 16
-When East Met West..............17-18
-Since the Wall Came Down.....18-19
ACCOMODATION
-Hostels....................................22-24
-Couch Surfing..........................24
SIGHTS AND TOURS
-Walking, Bus and Boat Tours ..26-29
-Sights.......................................30-37
-Day Trips..................................38
MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES
-Museum Island.........................40-44
-Other museums and galleries ..44-48
ARTS AND CULTURE
-Film...........................................50-57
-Gay and Lesbian........................58-61
-Street Art...................................62-64
NIGHT LIFE
-Introduction..............................66-67
-Bars and Night Clubs.................67-74
SHOPPING AND FASHION
3
-Flea Markets...........................76-77
-Shopping in Prenzlauerberg...78-79
-Fundusverkauf........................80-81
-Shopping in Friedrichstain......82-83
-General Shops........................84-87
FOOD AND DRINK
-Eating in Berlin........................90
-Restaurants and Cafes............91-97
-Vegetarian...............................98-99
-Desserts..................................100-101
CONTRIBUTORS.......................102-104
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7
Orientation
Berlin is generally a city which
is easy to get around, but in
case you find yourself in a
confusing situation, or can’t
find the information you
need, here are a few top tips
to help you along your way.
Find your way around –
Bus, U-Bahn, S-Bahn, Metro,
Trams, Regional Trains... The
sheer amount of transport
options in Berlin can be over-
whelming when you first ar-
rive. As soon as you can, pick
up a transport systems map
to aid in navigation. The two
important ones are the S/U-
Bahn map and the tram/metro
one. For further guidance in
navigating the public transport
flick to our transport section.
Riding the public transport –
Rule of thumb: buy before
you ride. It’s also necessary
to validate your ticket in the
automatic machines before
boarding. Plain-clothes ticket
officers ride around the trams
and trains checking tickets and
failure to have a valid ticket
could land you with a €40 fine.
Travel Planner –
BVG operates all of the public
transport in Berlin. Their web-
site (www.bvg.de) has a handy
timetable search box and up-
to-date information about de-
lays, diversions and cancella-
tions, which often happen at
short notice. Checking before
you leave for an epic late-night
party five miles away can help
you avoid being stuck in an un-
familiar area where the public
transport has stopped running.
Carry ID –
You can be stopped and asked
for ID at any time by the police,
so it’s a good idea to carry some
form of ID on you. Student ID
also comes in handy as many
places offer student discounts.
Toilets –
It is the norm to pay for us-
ing public toilets in Berlin. Ex-
pect a charge in some places
of around 50 cents, and up to
€1 in some places. Even places
like Starbucks and high profile
museums have toilet attend-
ants who expect a tip before
you enter. Popping into café’s
and asking if you can use their
facilities avoids having to pay.
Berlin survival guide
8
Orientation
Getting into clubs –
This can sometimes be tricky.
Some bars encourage large
groups, while others will turn
you away before you reach
the door, thinking you’ll cause
trouble. It’s always a good
idea to check dress code be-
fore heading out, to avoid
the disappointment of being
turned away for the wrong at-
tire. Also, some clubs are fussy
about you taking cameras in,
so be wary of taking yours out.
Sundays –
In contrast to the usual hus-
tle and bustle of the rest of
the week, Sunday’s are quiet
on Berlin’s shop-lined streets,
thanks to German law that
states most shops can’t open
Sundays. Don’t expect to pick
up any groceries on a Sunday.
Cross the road with caution –
Jaywalking is illegal. Motor-
ists know this and won’t slow
down for anything. If you
choose to cross before the
green man appears, don’t
be surprised when locals tut
and frown disapprovingly.
Watch out for the cyclists –
They are everywhere! Often
impatient and cycling at what
seemslike50milesperhour,cy-
clists will swerve alarming close
by if you’re in the way. Stay off
the designated cycle paths to
avoid too many near-misses,
and even then expect to share
the pavement. Alternative: buy
or rent your own bike. It’s ar-
guably one of the best ways to
experience the city and allows
you to join in on the death-
9
Orientation
defying antics of other cyclists.
Take note of museum opening
hours -
Many of the museums located
around Museum Island are
free for the last four opening
hours on Thursdays, generally
between 6 p.m. and 10 p.m.,
a great opportunity to explore
the rich variety Berlin’s muse-
ums offer. Also keep in mind
many of the museums and gal-
leries are shut on Mondays.
Stay hydrated! -
This is a no-brainer when it
comes to summer in the city. If
you need free tap water from a
restaurantorbar,makesureyou
ask for ‘Leitungswasser’ as ‘tap
water’ isn’t always understood.
Buying bottled water -
Then take note that the ma-
jority of bottled water sold in
Berlin is of the sparkling va-
riety. Even bottles labelled
with the seemingly straight-
forward ‘Naturliches Mineral-
wasser’ contain bubbles. For
still water, look for the bot-
tles labelled ‘ohne Kohlen-
saure’, ‘without gas.’ ‘Kohlen-
saure ‘ means that it’s got fizz.
Plastic recycling –
If you’re visiting Berlin in the
summer months, chances are
you’ll get through a substan-
tial number of bottled drinks.
These can be recycled and
you’ll receive money for doing
so, around 25 cents a bottle.
Drop them off in the machines
at your local supermarket.
Bring your own bags –
Supermarkets and other shops
in Berlin don’t offer plastic bags
or packing services. Whilst
plastic carriers are available
to purchase in supermarkets,
bringing your own will save
money and the environment.
Also, supermarket cashiers are
super efficient, so pack fast.
And finally...Explore! -
Berlin has much more to of-
fer and changes so rapidly, it’s
near impossible for any guide
book to cover everything. Find
an area that appeals to you, go
there and wander the streets.
We guarantee you’ll find your-
self a new favourite hangout.
CS
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12
transport
Getting around in Berlin
Airports in Berlin
Berlin is served by two main
international airports – Tegel
airport, and the larger Schöne-
feld. Tegel is located on the out-
skirts of the city, to the north-
west. Schönefeld is about 22
kilometres away from the
city centre, to the south-east.
Tegel airport is not serviced
by Berlin’s U-Bahn service, so
the easiest way to get closer
to the city centre is to get on
a bus. Some lines run direct to
the city centre, while others
provide a U-Bahn connection.
From Schönefeld airport
you can take regional trains
into Berlin’s centre quickly.
Schönefeld is also serviced by
S-Bahn, which are slower but
allow you to travel directly
to different parts of the city.
Picking up an information
leaflet at the airport is al-
ways a good bet-- they tell
where you can pick up pub-
lic transport to get to the
centre as well as list timeta-
ble information and costs.
Getting around Berlin
At first, trying to navigate
around Berlin’s extensive
transport networks can seem
a bit daunting. Spend a few
days, though, and the effi-
ciency of this system becomes
evident.. Public transport
in Berlin is quick and con-
nected, run smoothly by the
BVG. Check out www.bvg.
de for general information
and up-to-date details about
any delays or repair works.
And remember, the transport
runs in both directions! Af-
ter the transport number is a
place name indicating the last
stop for that train. Check on
the map to make sure you’re
travelling in the right direction!
Also, pick up the two sepa-
rate maps, one showing the
S/U Bahn, and the other the
tram system. These will help
you switch from one service
to the other, and also pro-
viding information about
what trams stop where.
U-Bahn
The U-Bahn is Berlin’s under-
ground train service. It cov-
ers a large amount of the city
and makes frequent stops
so you can get fairly close to
where you want to be. They
13
transport
run from 4.30 a.m. to 12.30
a.m., and all through the
night on Friday and Saturday.
S-Bahn
The S-Bahn is a light rail system
and covers longer distances
than the U-Bahn, but stops less
frequently. It is especially use-
ful for travelling between East
and West, making stops at the
major visitor attractions. It’s
the best way to get slightly
further afield,, for daytrips
to outside the city, such as to
Potsdam or Sachsenhausen.
They run between 4.30 a.m.
and 12.30 a.m. every day, and
overnight Fridays and Saturday.
Trams
The trams make even more
frequent stops than the U-
Bahn, covering places outside
the reach of the U-Bahn and
S-Bahn. They run only on the
Eastern side of the city, anoth-
er GDR relic , so remember this
when looking at the map that
the middle of the map is not
the city centre! Tram stops in-
terlink with the major U-Bahn
and S-Bahn stations, making
it easy to combine transport
methods. They often run along
the middle of the roads, right
alongside traffic, and have yel-
low signposts to mark where
the stops are. Some of the
tram services run all through
the night, and many of the
ones that don’t still run fairly
regularly into the later hours.
Buses
Buses run frequently through-
out the day between 4.30
a.m. and 12.30 a.m. Night
buses also run at half hour
intervals and follow some
of the S-Bahn routes Sun-
day to Thursday nights when
the S-Bahn is not running.
Tickets
Tickets can be bought at S-Bahn
and U-Bahn stations, on-board
Trams, or at other venues with
a BVG option. Tickets allow
you to use all of Berlin’s trans-
port options, including the S-
Bahn, U-Bahn, trams, regional
trains, buses, and ferries.
The city is divided into trans-
port zones – A, B, and C. Most
of the major sites are located in
zone B, so unless you plan on
venturingfurtherafield,werec-
ommend getting an AB ticket.
14
transport
Remember, Berlin is a large
city with attractions in every
district. The day, weekly, and
monthly tickets are good value
and allow you to see the city
without having to worry about
buying tickets every time you
travel, allowing for more sight-
seeing and less travel time.
Types of tickets
Short Trip Ticket
For €1.30, this ticket is valid for
up to three stops on the U/S-
Bahn, or six on the tram. Useful
forshortdistancestooneplace.
Single trip tickets
Thesearevalidforuseinonedi-
rection, allowing you to change
and make use of all the trans-
port options. €2.10 for an AB
zonetickets,€2.80forABCzone.
Day Tickets
A ticket allows you unlimited
travel on any method of trans-
port from the time of valida-
tion until 3 a.m. €6.10 for an
AB zone ticket, €6.50 for ABC.
These tickets are great for vis-
iting several places in one day.
Weekly tickets
If you’re staying a week in
Berlin, getting one of these
tickets is likely to offer a rea-
sonably priced method of
getting around the city. An
AB zone ticket costs €26.20,
and an ABC zone costs €32.30
Monthly tickets
These are a great option if
you’re going to be in Ber-
lin for a bit longer. €72 for
an AB zone ticket, €88.50
for an ABC zone ticket.
Bicycles are popular in Berlin,
and available to pick up cheaply
at flea-markets if you are stay-
ing in Berlin longer. You are able
to take them on the S-Bahn and
U-Bahn , but you’ll need a spe-
cial bicycle ticket. Bike rental is
also wildly available, with many
shops dotted around the city.
Taxis are another option. While
they can be costly, a taxi is the
best bet if you’re lost or need
to get somewhere the pub-
lic transport doesn’t cover.
15
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Shopping
Shopping
Shopping
Mitte
Calypso
Rosenthaler Strasse 23
12am-8pm Mon-Fri, 12am-6pm Sat
www.calypsoshoes.com
Rosenthaler Strasser U
A shoe lover’s dream shop, this collec-
tion of vintage and 2nd hand shoes spans
6 decades and fills every inch of the in-
terior.This small shop houses every style
imaginable from PVC leather boots to
dainty heels from the 1920’s and oc-
casionally you can even stumble upon
a rare designer treasure. Not surpris-
ingly the lovingly-cultivated stock at-
tracts many film and theatre companies
to find the perfect shoes for their pro-
duction. Calypso’s backbone is Rose-
marie, who set up shop 12 years ago.
Her fascination with fancy footwear
is obvious and she is more than happy
to help you find the perfect pair. KB
Dussmann das KulturKaufHaus
Friedrichstrasse 90
10am-midnight Mon-Sat
030 20 25 11 11
kulturkaufhaus.de
Friedrichstrasse U
Dussmann’s book store is a goliath, a
coliseum of bookshelves packed from
floor to ceiling in 5 floors. It prides it-
self on having one of the largest English-
language book selections in Germany,
but it also provides CDs, DVDs, games
and audio media. English books are avail-
able on the 3rd floor with over 5500-
6000 books available at any time.These
include novels, history, politics, biogra-
phies and the ubiquitous travel guides
section. Right in the centre of Berlin
this is convenient, although bargains are
hard to come by as range is the real
strength of this place.A restaurant pro-
vides suitable ambiance for reading and
armchairs are sprinkled around the place
for the more taster based customer. JB
Werkhaus
Friedrichstrasse 123
11am-8pm Mon-Sat.
030 27 58 24 80
www.werkhaus.de
Oranienburger Tor. U
If you were ever a fan of putting togeth-
er the toy inside your Kinder Surprise
you’ll love this shop.Werkhaus produces
a range of compact flat-pack products
which you assemble yourself using little
more than a series of boards and elas-
tic bands; perfect for transporting back
home in your suitcase. The in-store se-
lection varies from office stationary and
home furniture to children’s toys, bed-
side lamps and even birdhouses with
a wide range of distinct and funky de-
signs to choose from. All materials are
locally-produced and made using non-
toxic colouring.Take some time to check
out their fantastical in-store displays
5
4
Shopping
Shopping
on the off-chance of catching a glimpse
of ‘the world’s largest periscope’! AS
Galeries LaFayette
Friedrichstrasse 76
10am-8pm Mon-Sat
www.galerieslafayette.de
Franzosische Strasser U
Dominating Friedrichstrasse is the im-
pressive housing for this uber-posh
French chain’s outlet in Berlin. Striking as
the exterior is the real treats of LaFayette
await you within – an impressive altar
of glass and light being the centrepiece.
Corridors of wine stacked from floor
to ceiling and low-lit avenues of clothes
and homewares are quintessentially con-
tinental. With a huge range of designer
labels and high-end goods this might not
suit those with slim wallets.However this
French import casually flips logic on its
head by providing some tasty dishes for
very reasonable prices in its food court.
With a euro you can pick up tasty treats
like a pain aux raisin or brioche. Once
you have your food head to the top
floor and grab a high-legged stool to en-
joy LaFayette’s fabulous rooftop view. JB
Ampelmann Galerie
Hackescher Höfe, CourtV
9.30am-10pm Mon-Sat
030 44 72 64 38
www.ampelmann.de
Hackescher Markt U
To be seen ushering pedestrians safely
across the streets of East Berlin, the Am-
pelmann is a much loved figure and a cult
relic of the GDR. In this shop entirely
dedicated to his image you’ll find souve-
nirs galore, from baby-grows to cycling
helmets, plasters to pasta shapes. LL
Berlin Story
Unter Den Linden 40
10am-8pm Mon-Sun
030 20 45 38 42
www.berlinstory.de
Friedrichstrasse U
For those arriving in Berlin with a ‘to-
do list’ longer than the Dead Sea Scrolls
with only limited time then it may be
worthwhile devising a plan, admittedly
not the most exciting aspect of travel-
ling. However neatly located on Unter
Den Linden between the beautiful Mu-
suem Island and the iconic Branden-
burg Gate is ‘Berlin Story’ - a one stop
shop for those looking to learn a little
about Berlin and what it has to offer.The
store boasts three floors of informa-
tion includings book, souvenirs, posters,
audiobooks and free of charge exhibits.
Visitors can use the wealth of informa-
tion to get more out of their trip to
Berlin. Berlin Story accomodates across
the spectrum; from those with little un-
derstanding of the city to those with
academic knowledge of its fascinating
history. Although the store is not with-
out the apparently compulsory pea-sized
portions of the infamous Berlin Wall,
Berlin Story offers much more than the
abundance of other tourist shops in the
district. A visit here may just help you
get more from your trip to Berlin. AE
Comicbibliothek Renate
Tucholskystrasse 32
www.renatecomics.de
14-19.00
Oranienbuger Tor S
For all diehard comic book fans, this
quirky little treasure trove sells all
that’s cool in graphic design. The ex-
tensive catalogue has both up to date
and classic comics on sale along with a
section near the front showcasing illus-
trations from current Berlin talent. KB
Do you read me?!
Auguststrasse 28
030 69 54 96 95
www.doyoureadme.de
Oranienburger Tor S
Do you hate it when you go to a book-
shop and the magazine section has been
ransacked beyond belief, leaving nothing
but trashy weeklies behind? Well if you
are more inclined to buy a €10 maga-
zine than dinner then Do you read me?!
has it all. Having eliminated the books,
the shop is dedicated to promoting
creatively inspired mags from around
the world.A browse through the stacks
will show you photography and art,
fashion, culture and social philosophy
tomes, together with self-produced and
published zines from local artists. Well-
known and popular periodicals include
Dazed and Confused, Vice and ID are
usually stocked but if they don’t have
what you’re looking for the helpful staff
should be able to order it in for you. KB
Fassbender  Rausch
Charlottenstrasse 60
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Shopping
Shopping
10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun
030 20 45 84 43
www.fassbender-rausch.de
Französische Strasse U
Those with a sweet tooth shouldn’t miss
a trip to the shop of legendary choco-
latiers, Fassbender  Rausch. Claiming
the title of biggest chocolate house in
the world, the shelves are adorned with
a vast assortment of handmade truffles,
pralines, sweets, and biscuits. A choco-
late volcano and large chocolate mod-
els of Berlin landmarks – including the
Reichstag and TV tower – complete the
impressive display of sugary delights. Up-
stairs in the café you can look over the
beautiful square of Gendarmenmarkt
and enjoy a cake or two (from €3.90),
or visit the first ‘Schokoladen-Restau-
rant’ where chefs cook up culinary de-
lights using the highest quality cocoa
and chocolate (11am-8pm Mon-Sun). LL
Made in Berlin
Neue Schönhauser Strasse 19
12pm-8pm Mon-Fri ; 11pm-6pm Sat
030 21 23 06 01
www.kleidermarkt.de
Weinmeisterstrasse U
It isn’t actually ‘made in Berlin’ as most
of the wares in this Holy Grail of vin-
tage shops come from America but it’s a
popular choice with tourists and Berlin-
ers alike. It’s almost always flooded with
bargain hounds sifting through buckets of
clutch bags, trilby hats or retro sunglass-
es. Good deals are easily found; leather
jackets and Doc-martens are reasonably
priced considering the usual 15% Mitte
price tag. Sitting side by side you’ll find
better than average jumble along with de-
signer dresses. Pieces from Cynthia Vin-
cent’s line, popular with celebrities such
as Rhianna, Becki Newton and Vanessa
Hudgens, are sold for around €70. KB
Waahnsinn
17 Rosenthaler Strasse
12pm-8pm Mon-Sat
030 282 00 29
Weinmeisterstrasse U
Your one-stop shop for all things
retro, Waahnsinn is full to the raft-
ers with vintage goodies. Fashion from
the swinging ‘60s lines the rails, includ-
ing leather jackets, wacky sunglasses
and flower power dresses. But if kitsch
furniture is more your thing then look
no further as sofas, chairs, mirrors and
lamps all hailing from the ‘70s are piled
high. Old Playboy magazines scattered
around the shop complete the look. LL
Kreuzberg
Humana
Frankfurter Tor 3
10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat
Frankfurter Tor U
Slightly more than your average charity
shop this huge store spans 4 floors of an
old GDR warehouse.All the clothes are
arranged carefully by style and colour,
which makes sifting through the jumble
much easier. Don’t be put off by the first
two floors of depressing junk where you
can expect to see little old ladies brows-
ing. The third floor houses the home-
ware section which promises to show
you interesting gems from old records,
to leather-bound books by Lenin,to por-
celain clown dolls and even a pair of skis.
The last level is where it’s at for vintage
under the sign ‘trend’. Here you can find
nylon neon jackets, glitter encrusted
blouses from the 80’s, wedding dress-
es and even fur lined winter coats. KB
Jumbo Second Hand
Wiener Strasse 63
10am-8pm Mon-Sat
Görlitzer Bahnhof U
The goods may be second hand, but the
quality you’ll find within these doors
outshines all other antiquated fashion
outlets in the area.Unfortunately the ex-
cellence in choice and condition comes
with a pretty hefty price tag.An old pair
of Nike sneakers or refined 1920’s court
shoes will set you back €50, full length
mink or Coney coats are anywhere
between €90 – 135 and nylon sports
jackets come in at around €25. If you
have €190 lying around spare, pick up
an accordion and join the band of musi-
cians who frequent U-bahn stations. KB
Kisch  Co.
Oranienstrasse 25
10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat
030 614 80 87
www.kisch-online.de
U-Bahn Kottbusser Tor
This German book shop has a great
selection of musicians and film stars
biographical books. You can also find
many books about art and photogra-
phy. Although most of the material is
in German, you can find some good
works in English too. But what makes
this shop unique is the NGBK gallery,
separated from the shop but inside it. AA
Core-Tex
Oranienstrasse 3
Görlitzer Bahnhof U
Opposite the legendary SO36 club is
the self proclaimed ‘home of punk and
hardcore’ in Kreuzberg. Both a clothes
store and record store along with tickets
for local punk and rock gigs, Core-Tex is
a Mecca for those with a penchant for
punk. CP
Modern Graphics
Oranienstrasse 22
11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-7.30pm Sat
030 615 88 10
www.modern-graphics.de
Kottbuster Tor U
This comic shop has all kind of comics,
9
8
Shopping
Shopping
graphic novels and photography books,
including a big collection in English. It
also sells posters, figures and puppets of
characters from movies and comics. It is
small and a bit chaotic but really interest-
ing, and the staff are friendly. AA
Friedrichshain
East of Eden
Schreiner Strasser. 10
www.wix.com/eastofedenberlin
English language bookshop reminiscent
more of your Grandparents dishevelled
living room than your average bookstore.
East of Eden,only five minutes walk from
Karl-MarxAllee, is ideally suited for trav-
ellers on a budget needing a book to
accompany them.With a selection rang-
ing from biographies and pamphlets to
poetry anthologies, visitors are unlikely
to leave empty handed. Enthusiastic staff
will be happy to help with your search
and may even offer a fresh cup of tea
whilst you mull over the options - help-
ing even further with the budgeting! Be
warned however, it is all to easy lose a
few hours in the snug couches leafing
through a classic. AE
Flea Market at Boxhagener Platz
Boxhagener Platz
10am-6pm Sun
Frankfurter Tor U
This leafy, cobble stoned square is the
perfect venue for sifting through bric-
a-brac on a lazy Sunday afternoon. Like
all good flea markets, it can at times re-
semble a jumble sale, with wares often
unceremoniously strewn across tables.
From posters to teapots, vinyl to vintage
wear,there is something to suit all tastes.
If you work up a thirst after all that bar-
gain hunting, re-energise at one of the
many bars and cafes along nearby Simon-
Dach Strasse. LL
Flea Market at Ostbahnhof
Erich-Steinfurth Strasse 1
9am-5pm Sun
Ostbahnhof S
Antiques and collectibles abound at this
flea market located just outside the Ost-
bahnhof S-bahn station. Pick up a gramo-
phone with accompanying vinyl,bag your-
self an antique china set,flick through old
photos and postcards or kick-start your
coin collection. And for those looking
for GDR memorabilia, an assortment
of military hats, pins, walkie-talkies and
other cold war relics are up for grabs. LL
Mondos Arts
Schreinerstrasse 6
10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat
030 42 02 02 25
www.mondosarts.de
Samariterstrasse U
Inexplicably named after a brand of
condoms, this little shop-cum-T-shirt
printing press is full of kitsch ostalgie
trinkets. Create you’re very own card-
board model of the TV Tower, pick up
a few Ampelmann knick-knacks (key-
rings, sweets, badges and more) or test
your Cold War knowledge with a DDR
quiz book. More genuine artefacts are
also available with a selection of maps,
household goods and board games all
hailing from the GDR era for sale. LL
Your Record Dealer
Warschauer Strasse
12pm-8pm Mon-Sat
Frankfurter Tor U
A little shop of vinyl records where
you can find almost all the music from
the 50’s to the 90’s. Music lovers could
spend hours just looking around al-
bums of all styles: punk, rock, soul, indie.
Prices range between €7 and €30. AA
Prenzlauer Berg
Mauer Park Flohmarkt
Bernauer Strasse 63-64
Every Sunday
0176 29 25 00 21
www.mauerparkmarkt.de
Bernauer Str U
Every Sunday along Bernauer Strasse
a popular market blossoms out of no-
where.Transforming a desolate and rath-
er forlorn little strip of park land into a
heaving mass of white booths. The most
striking thing about Mauer Park is prob-
ably the huge number of bikes on sale
here – most just outside the market.
However, furnishings, art and t-shirts
also come in prodigious quantities with
haggling for better prices a serious step
towards saving. Some stalls also sell
clothes by the kilo, so weigh your wares
and head to the numerous crepe stalls or
bars to take the pressure off your feet. If
you like bargains head down to this flea
market as most things can be found –
they just might not be all in one piece! JB
Bücherwald
Sredzkistrasse 48.
www.bookcrossing.de
Eberswalder Strasse U
While walking around Prenzlauer Berg
streets you can find this tree which
Vintage Wares at Mauer Park
11
10
Shopping
Shopping
keeps books in the holes of its trunk. It
is one of the initiatives of the company
Bookcrossers for sharing literature and
promoting reading.You are free to both
leave and take books, but remember
to keep them in a waterproof bag. AA
Da Capo
Kastanienallee 96
11am-7p.m Mon-Fri; 11am-4pm Sat
www.da-capo-vinyl.de
U-Bahn Eberswalder Strasse
This shop has not only some of the
best jazz, pop and rock records but
also classic music vinyls, audio books
and a selection of German modern
music. There is a record player for lis-
tening to them and a little room dedi-
cated to books. Prices vary up to €10.
AA
Luxus International
Kastanienallee 101
11am-8pm Mon-Wed; 11am-8.30pm
Thurs-Sat/1.30pm-7.30pm Sun
www.luxus-international.de
U-Bahn Eberswalder Strasse
For those tourists tired of the typical
souvenirs of Berlin, this tiny shop of-
fers unique ones. You can find t-shirts,
key rings, figures, books, stickers and
lamps with original images of the city
on them. There are also other original
things such as rings made with com-
puter keys, colourful bags or CDs. AA
Marrakesch Art  Lifestyle
Hussemannstrasse 9
11am-7pm Mon-Fri/11am-5pm Sat
030 44 35 63 86.
www.marrakesch-art-lifestyle.de
U-Bah Eberswalder Strasse
This shop sells many mudejar style tools
(Islamic art). You can find everything
from mirrors,tables,lamps and all kind of
silver crockery to cushions, blankets or
sleepers. Although it is tiny and packed
with items, you can find really beautiful
things in here. AA
Oye Records
Oderberger Strass 4
1pm-8pm Mon-Fri; 12am-6pm Sat
030 66 64 78 21
www.oye-records.com
U-Bahn Eberswalder Strasse
This shop contains a huge techno and
house record collection which you
can either buy or rent. But if you pre-
fer some hip-hop, reggae, jazz or soul,
you can also find it here. There are
four record players available for listen-
ing to the vinyl before you buy. It is
also a small shelf with many CDs. AA
Flea Market at Arkonaplatz
Arkonaplatz, Prenzlauer Berg
10am-5pm
U-Bahn Bernauer Strasse
Tucked away in a quiet corner of family-
friendly Prenzlauer Berg, this small flea
market is a scaled down (and less over-
whelming) version of the one found at
nearby Mauerpark. Once you’ve bat-
tled through the fleet of buggies, prams
and pushchairs, you’ll discover bundles
of vintage clothing and a miscellaneous
array of antique furniture, from clocks
to rocking chairs to writing bureaus. LL
The Recordstore
Brunnenstrasse 186
12am-8pm Mon-Sat
030 28 44 46 80
www.recordstore-berlin.com
U-Bahn Rosenthaler Platz
If you are looking either for old or new
records, you will probably find them
here.This shop has a big collection of
jazz,country,rock and roll and 70s rock.
But if you prefer new music it has also a
great indie selection. Prices range from
€5 to €40 depending on the bands and
albums. There is also a “sale section”
where you can find records from €1.
AA
Schoneberg
Winterfeldt Markt
Winterfeldtplatz, Schöneberg.
8am-1pm Wed, Sat.
U-Bahn Nollendorfplatz.
Throw yourself into the hustle and bus-
tle of this popular farmer’s market with
Berlin’s discerning shoppers demanding
quality wares over bargain deals. Half
the fun is wending through this labyrinth
of gourmet food, hand-made jewellery
and clothing stalls taking in the wide
gamut of sights and smells. Foodies will
love the range of tasty treats on offer,
from crisp fried churros and zucchini
fritters to regional cheeses and flax-
seed oil pressed in front of your very
eyes.After a full afternoon of gorging sit
down at one of many cafés coming off
the square for a well-earned digestif.AS
KaDeWe
Tauentzienstrasse 21-24
10am-8pm Mon-Thurs; 10am-9pm Fri;
9.30am-8pm Sat
212 10
www.kadewe-berlin.de
U-Bahn Wittenbergplatz
Serving shopaholics for over a century,
Kaufhaus des Westens – otherwise
known as KaDeWe – is Berlin’s an-
swer to Harrods. Boasting eight floors,
60,000 sqm (the equivalent of nine
football fields) and every brand name
under the sun, it is the largest depart-
ment store on the continent. If you’re
pushed for time or your budget doesn’t
accommodate the steep prices, head
straight to the legendary food hall on
the sixth floor, which sells everything
from super-noodles to €17,000 bottles
of cognac. LL

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BerlinSummer2010Guide-Edit

  • 1. 1
  • 2. 2 CONTENTS ORIENTATION -Survival guide.........................7-9` TRANSPORT -Airports..................................12 -U-bahn/ S-bahn/ Trams..........12-13 -Buses......................................13 -Tickets....................................13-14 HISTORY AND CONTEXT -National Socialism.................. 16 -When East Met West..............17-18 -Since the Wall Came Down.....18-19 ACCOMODATION -Hostels....................................22-24 -Couch Surfing..........................24 SIGHTS AND TOURS -Walking, Bus and Boat Tours ..26-29 -Sights.......................................30-37 -Day Trips..................................38 MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES -Museum Island.........................40-44 -Other museums and galleries ..44-48 ARTS AND CULTURE -Film...........................................50-57 -Gay and Lesbian........................58-61 -Street Art...................................62-64 NIGHT LIFE -Introduction..............................66-67 -Bars and Night Clubs.................67-74 SHOPPING AND FASHION
  • 3. 3 -Flea Markets...........................76-77 -Shopping in Prenzlauerberg...78-79 -Fundusverkauf........................80-81 -Shopping in Friedrichstain......82-83 -General Shops........................84-87 FOOD AND DRINK -Eating in Berlin........................90 -Restaurants and Cafes............91-97 -Vegetarian...............................98-99 -Desserts..................................100-101 CONTRIBUTORS.......................102-104
  • 4. 5
  • 5. 6
  • 6. 7 Orientation Berlin is generally a city which is easy to get around, but in case you find yourself in a confusing situation, or can’t find the information you need, here are a few top tips to help you along your way. Find your way around – Bus, U-Bahn, S-Bahn, Metro, Trams, Regional Trains... The sheer amount of transport options in Berlin can be over- whelming when you first ar- rive. As soon as you can, pick up a transport systems map to aid in navigation. The two important ones are the S/U- Bahn map and the tram/metro one. For further guidance in navigating the public transport flick to our transport section. Riding the public transport – Rule of thumb: buy before you ride. It’s also necessary to validate your ticket in the automatic machines before boarding. Plain-clothes ticket officers ride around the trams and trains checking tickets and failure to have a valid ticket could land you with a €40 fine. Travel Planner – BVG operates all of the public transport in Berlin. Their web- site (www.bvg.de) has a handy timetable search box and up- to-date information about de- lays, diversions and cancella- tions, which often happen at short notice. Checking before you leave for an epic late-night party five miles away can help you avoid being stuck in an un- familiar area where the public transport has stopped running. Carry ID – You can be stopped and asked for ID at any time by the police, so it’s a good idea to carry some form of ID on you. Student ID also comes in handy as many places offer student discounts. Toilets – It is the norm to pay for us- ing public toilets in Berlin. Ex- pect a charge in some places of around 50 cents, and up to €1 in some places. Even places like Starbucks and high profile museums have toilet attend- ants who expect a tip before you enter. Popping into café’s and asking if you can use their facilities avoids having to pay. Berlin survival guide
  • 7. 8 Orientation Getting into clubs – This can sometimes be tricky. Some bars encourage large groups, while others will turn you away before you reach the door, thinking you’ll cause trouble. It’s always a good idea to check dress code be- fore heading out, to avoid the disappointment of being turned away for the wrong at- tire. Also, some clubs are fussy about you taking cameras in, so be wary of taking yours out. Sundays – In contrast to the usual hus- tle and bustle of the rest of the week, Sunday’s are quiet on Berlin’s shop-lined streets, thanks to German law that states most shops can’t open Sundays. Don’t expect to pick up any groceries on a Sunday. Cross the road with caution – Jaywalking is illegal. Motor- ists know this and won’t slow down for anything. If you choose to cross before the green man appears, don’t be surprised when locals tut and frown disapprovingly. Watch out for the cyclists – They are everywhere! Often impatient and cycling at what seemslike50milesperhour,cy- clists will swerve alarming close by if you’re in the way. Stay off the designated cycle paths to avoid too many near-misses, and even then expect to share the pavement. Alternative: buy or rent your own bike. It’s ar- guably one of the best ways to experience the city and allows you to join in on the death-
  • 8. 9 Orientation defying antics of other cyclists. Take note of museum opening hours - Many of the museums located around Museum Island are free for the last four opening hours on Thursdays, generally between 6 p.m. and 10 p.m., a great opportunity to explore the rich variety Berlin’s muse- ums offer. Also keep in mind many of the museums and gal- leries are shut on Mondays. Stay hydrated! - This is a no-brainer when it comes to summer in the city. If you need free tap water from a restaurantorbar,makesureyou ask for ‘Leitungswasser’ as ‘tap water’ isn’t always understood. Buying bottled water - Then take note that the ma- jority of bottled water sold in Berlin is of the sparkling va- riety. Even bottles labelled with the seemingly straight- forward ‘Naturliches Mineral- wasser’ contain bubbles. For still water, look for the bot- tles labelled ‘ohne Kohlen- saure’, ‘without gas.’ ‘Kohlen- saure ‘ means that it’s got fizz. Plastic recycling – If you’re visiting Berlin in the summer months, chances are you’ll get through a substan- tial number of bottled drinks. These can be recycled and you’ll receive money for doing so, around 25 cents a bottle. Drop them off in the machines at your local supermarket. Bring your own bags – Supermarkets and other shops in Berlin don’t offer plastic bags or packing services. Whilst plastic carriers are available to purchase in supermarkets, bringing your own will save money and the environment. Also, supermarket cashiers are super efficient, so pack fast. And finally...Explore! - Berlin has much more to of- fer and changes so rapidly, it’s near impossible for any guide book to cover everything. Find an area that appeals to you, go there and wander the streets. We guarantee you’ll find your- self a new favourite hangout. CS
  • 9. 11
  • 10. 12 transport Getting around in Berlin Airports in Berlin Berlin is served by two main international airports – Tegel airport, and the larger Schöne- feld. Tegel is located on the out- skirts of the city, to the north- west. Schönefeld is about 22 kilometres away from the city centre, to the south-east. Tegel airport is not serviced by Berlin’s U-Bahn service, so the easiest way to get closer to the city centre is to get on a bus. Some lines run direct to the city centre, while others provide a U-Bahn connection. From Schönefeld airport you can take regional trains into Berlin’s centre quickly. Schönefeld is also serviced by S-Bahn, which are slower but allow you to travel directly to different parts of the city. Picking up an information leaflet at the airport is al- ways a good bet-- they tell where you can pick up pub- lic transport to get to the centre as well as list timeta- ble information and costs. Getting around Berlin At first, trying to navigate around Berlin’s extensive transport networks can seem a bit daunting. Spend a few days, though, and the effi- ciency of this system becomes evident.. Public transport in Berlin is quick and con- nected, run smoothly by the BVG. Check out www.bvg. de for general information and up-to-date details about any delays or repair works. And remember, the transport runs in both directions! Af- ter the transport number is a place name indicating the last stop for that train. Check on the map to make sure you’re travelling in the right direction! Also, pick up the two sepa- rate maps, one showing the S/U Bahn, and the other the tram system. These will help you switch from one service to the other, and also pro- viding information about what trams stop where. U-Bahn The U-Bahn is Berlin’s under- ground train service. It cov- ers a large amount of the city and makes frequent stops so you can get fairly close to where you want to be. They
  • 11. 13 transport run from 4.30 a.m. to 12.30 a.m., and all through the night on Friday and Saturday. S-Bahn The S-Bahn is a light rail system and covers longer distances than the U-Bahn, but stops less frequently. It is especially use- ful for travelling between East and West, making stops at the major visitor attractions. It’s the best way to get slightly further afield,, for daytrips to outside the city, such as to Potsdam or Sachsenhausen. They run between 4.30 a.m. and 12.30 a.m. every day, and overnight Fridays and Saturday. Trams The trams make even more frequent stops than the U- Bahn, covering places outside the reach of the U-Bahn and S-Bahn. They run only on the Eastern side of the city, anoth- er GDR relic , so remember this when looking at the map that the middle of the map is not the city centre! Tram stops in- terlink with the major U-Bahn and S-Bahn stations, making it easy to combine transport methods. They often run along the middle of the roads, right alongside traffic, and have yel- low signposts to mark where the stops are. Some of the tram services run all through the night, and many of the ones that don’t still run fairly regularly into the later hours. Buses Buses run frequently through- out the day between 4.30 a.m. and 12.30 a.m. Night buses also run at half hour intervals and follow some of the S-Bahn routes Sun- day to Thursday nights when the S-Bahn is not running. Tickets Tickets can be bought at S-Bahn and U-Bahn stations, on-board Trams, or at other venues with a BVG option. Tickets allow you to use all of Berlin’s trans- port options, including the S- Bahn, U-Bahn, trams, regional trains, buses, and ferries. The city is divided into trans- port zones – A, B, and C. Most of the major sites are located in zone B, so unless you plan on venturingfurtherafield,werec- ommend getting an AB ticket.
  • 12. 14 transport Remember, Berlin is a large city with attractions in every district. The day, weekly, and monthly tickets are good value and allow you to see the city without having to worry about buying tickets every time you travel, allowing for more sight- seeing and less travel time. Types of tickets Short Trip Ticket For €1.30, this ticket is valid for up to three stops on the U/S- Bahn, or six on the tram. Useful forshortdistancestooneplace. Single trip tickets Thesearevalidforuseinonedi- rection, allowing you to change and make use of all the trans- port options. €2.10 for an AB zonetickets,€2.80forABCzone. Day Tickets A ticket allows you unlimited travel on any method of trans- port from the time of valida- tion until 3 a.m. €6.10 for an AB zone ticket, €6.50 for ABC. These tickets are great for vis- iting several places in one day. Weekly tickets If you’re staying a week in Berlin, getting one of these tickets is likely to offer a rea- sonably priced method of getting around the city. An AB zone ticket costs €26.20, and an ABC zone costs €32.30 Monthly tickets These are a great option if you’re going to be in Ber- lin for a bit longer. €72 for an AB zone ticket, €88.50 for an ABC zone ticket. Bicycles are popular in Berlin, and available to pick up cheaply at flea-markets if you are stay- ing in Berlin longer. You are able to take them on the S-Bahn and U-Bahn , but you’ll need a spe- cial bicycle ticket. Bike rental is also wildly available, with many shops dotted around the city. Taxis are another option. While they can be costly, a taxi is the best bet if you’re lost or need to get somewhere the pub- lic transport doesn’t cover.
  • 13. 15
  • 14. 3 2 Shopping Shopping Shopping Mitte Calypso Rosenthaler Strasse 23 12am-8pm Mon-Fri, 12am-6pm Sat www.calypsoshoes.com Rosenthaler Strasser U A shoe lover’s dream shop, this collec- tion of vintage and 2nd hand shoes spans 6 decades and fills every inch of the in- terior.This small shop houses every style imaginable from PVC leather boots to dainty heels from the 1920’s and oc- casionally you can even stumble upon a rare designer treasure. Not surpris- ingly the lovingly-cultivated stock at- tracts many film and theatre companies to find the perfect shoes for their pro- duction. Calypso’s backbone is Rose- marie, who set up shop 12 years ago. Her fascination with fancy footwear is obvious and she is more than happy to help you find the perfect pair. KB Dussmann das KulturKaufHaus Friedrichstrasse 90 10am-midnight Mon-Sat 030 20 25 11 11 kulturkaufhaus.de Friedrichstrasse U Dussmann’s book store is a goliath, a coliseum of bookshelves packed from floor to ceiling in 5 floors. It prides it- self on having one of the largest English- language book selections in Germany, but it also provides CDs, DVDs, games and audio media. English books are avail- able on the 3rd floor with over 5500- 6000 books available at any time.These include novels, history, politics, biogra- phies and the ubiquitous travel guides section. Right in the centre of Berlin this is convenient, although bargains are hard to come by as range is the real strength of this place.A restaurant pro- vides suitable ambiance for reading and armchairs are sprinkled around the place for the more taster based customer. JB Werkhaus Friedrichstrasse 123 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. 030 27 58 24 80 www.werkhaus.de Oranienburger Tor. U If you were ever a fan of putting togeth- er the toy inside your Kinder Surprise you’ll love this shop.Werkhaus produces a range of compact flat-pack products which you assemble yourself using little more than a series of boards and elas- tic bands; perfect for transporting back home in your suitcase. The in-store se- lection varies from office stationary and home furniture to children’s toys, bed- side lamps and even birdhouses with a wide range of distinct and funky de- signs to choose from. All materials are locally-produced and made using non- toxic colouring.Take some time to check out their fantastical in-store displays
  • 15. 5 4 Shopping Shopping on the off-chance of catching a glimpse of ‘the world’s largest periscope’! AS Galeries LaFayette Friedrichstrasse 76 10am-8pm Mon-Sat www.galerieslafayette.de Franzosische Strasser U Dominating Friedrichstrasse is the im- pressive housing for this uber-posh French chain’s outlet in Berlin. Striking as the exterior is the real treats of LaFayette await you within – an impressive altar of glass and light being the centrepiece. Corridors of wine stacked from floor to ceiling and low-lit avenues of clothes and homewares are quintessentially con- tinental. With a huge range of designer labels and high-end goods this might not suit those with slim wallets.However this French import casually flips logic on its head by providing some tasty dishes for very reasonable prices in its food court. With a euro you can pick up tasty treats like a pain aux raisin or brioche. Once you have your food head to the top floor and grab a high-legged stool to en- joy LaFayette’s fabulous rooftop view. JB Ampelmann Galerie Hackescher Höfe, CourtV 9.30am-10pm Mon-Sat 030 44 72 64 38 www.ampelmann.de Hackescher Markt U To be seen ushering pedestrians safely across the streets of East Berlin, the Am- pelmann is a much loved figure and a cult relic of the GDR. In this shop entirely dedicated to his image you’ll find souve- nirs galore, from baby-grows to cycling helmets, plasters to pasta shapes. LL Berlin Story Unter Den Linden 40 10am-8pm Mon-Sun 030 20 45 38 42 www.berlinstory.de Friedrichstrasse U For those arriving in Berlin with a ‘to- do list’ longer than the Dead Sea Scrolls with only limited time then it may be worthwhile devising a plan, admittedly not the most exciting aspect of travel- ling. However neatly located on Unter Den Linden between the beautiful Mu- suem Island and the iconic Branden- burg Gate is ‘Berlin Story’ - a one stop shop for those looking to learn a little about Berlin and what it has to offer.The store boasts three floors of informa- tion includings book, souvenirs, posters, audiobooks and free of charge exhibits. Visitors can use the wealth of informa- tion to get more out of their trip to Berlin. Berlin Story accomodates across the spectrum; from those with little un- derstanding of the city to those with academic knowledge of its fascinating history. Although the store is not with- out the apparently compulsory pea-sized portions of the infamous Berlin Wall, Berlin Story offers much more than the abundance of other tourist shops in the district. A visit here may just help you get more from your trip to Berlin. AE Comicbibliothek Renate Tucholskystrasse 32 www.renatecomics.de 14-19.00 Oranienbuger Tor S For all diehard comic book fans, this quirky little treasure trove sells all that’s cool in graphic design. The ex- tensive catalogue has both up to date and classic comics on sale along with a section near the front showcasing illus- trations from current Berlin talent. KB Do you read me?! Auguststrasse 28 030 69 54 96 95 www.doyoureadme.de Oranienburger Tor S Do you hate it when you go to a book- shop and the magazine section has been ransacked beyond belief, leaving nothing but trashy weeklies behind? Well if you are more inclined to buy a €10 maga- zine than dinner then Do you read me?! has it all. Having eliminated the books, the shop is dedicated to promoting creatively inspired mags from around the world.A browse through the stacks will show you photography and art, fashion, culture and social philosophy tomes, together with self-produced and published zines from local artists. Well- known and popular periodicals include Dazed and Confused, Vice and ID are usually stocked but if they don’t have what you’re looking for the helpful staff should be able to order it in for you. KB Fassbender Rausch Charlottenstrasse 60
  • 16. 7 6 Shopping Shopping 10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun 030 20 45 84 43 www.fassbender-rausch.de Französische Strasse U Those with a sweet tooth shouldn’t miss a trip to the shop of legendary choco- latiers, Fassbender Rausch. Claiming the title of biggest chocolate house in the world, the shelves are adorned with a vast assortment of handmade truffles, pralines, sweets, and biscuits. A choco- late volcano and large chocolate mod- els of Berlin landmarks – including the Reichstag and TV tower – complete the impressive display of sugary delights. Up- stairs in the café you can look over the beautiful square of Gendarmenmarkt and enjoy a cake or two (from €3.90), or visit the first ‘Schokoladen-Restau- rant’ where chefs cook up culinary de- lights using the highest quality cocoa and chocolate (11am-8pm Mon-Sun). LL Made in Berlin Neue Schönhauser Strasse 19 12pm-8pm Mon-Fri ; 11pm-6pm Sat 030 21 23 06 01 www.kleidermarkt.de Weinmeisterstrasse U It isn’t actually ‘made in Berlin’ as most of the wares in this Holy Grail of vin- tage shops come from America but it’s a popular choice with tourists and Berlin- ers alike. It’s almost always flooded with bargain hounds sifting through buckets of clutch bags, trilby hats or retro sunglass- es. Good deals are easily found; leather jackets and Doc-martens are reasonably priced considering the usual 15% Mitte price tag. Sitting side by side you’ll find better than average jumble along with de- signer dresses. Pieces from Cynthia Vin- cent’s line, popular with celebrities such as Rhianna, Becki Newton and Vanessa Hudgens, are sold for around €70. KB Waahnsinn 17 Rosenthaler Strasse 12pm-8pm Mon-Sat 030 282 00 29 Weinmeisterstrasse U Your one-stop shop for all things retro, Waahnsinn is full to the raft- ers with vintage goodies. Fashion from the swinging ‘60s lines the rails, includ- ing leather jackets, wacky sunglasses and flower power dresses. But if kitsch furniture is more your thing then look no further as sofas, chairs, mirrors and lamps all hailing from the ‘70s are piled high. Old Playboy magazines scattered around the shop complete the look. LL Kreuzberg Humana Frankfurter Tor 3 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat Frankfurter Tor U Slightly more than your average charity shop this huge store spans 4 floors of an old GDR warehouse.All the clothes are arranged carefully by style and colour, which makes sifting through the jumble much easier. Don’t be put off by the first two floors of depressing junk where you can expect to see little old ladies brows- ing. The third floor houses the home- ware section which promises to show you interesting gems from old records, to leather-bound books by Lenin,to por- celain clown dolls and even a pair of skis. The last level is where it’s at for vintage under the sign ‘trend’. Here you can find nylon neon jackets, glitter encrusted blouses from the 80’s, wedding dress- es and even fur lined winter coats. KB Jumbo Second Hand Wiener Strasse 63 10am-8pm Mon-Sat Görlitzer Bahnhof U The goods may be second hand, but the quality you’ll find within these doors outshines all other antiquated fashion outlets in the area.Unfortunately the ex- cellence in choice and condition comes with a pretty hefty price tag.An old pair of Nike sneakers or refined 1920’s court shoes will set you back €50, full length mink or Coney coats are anywhere between €90 – 135 and nylon sports jackets come in at around €25. If you have €190 lying around spare, pick up an accordion and join the band of musi- cians who frequent U-bahn stations. KB Kisch Co. Oranienstrasse 25 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat 030 614 80 87 www.kisch-online.de U-Bahn Kottbusser Tor This German book shop has a great selection of musicians and film stars biographical books. You can also find many books about art and photogra- phy. Although most of the material is in German, you can find some good works in English too. But what makes this shop unique is the NGBK gallery, separated from the shop but inside it. AA Core-Tex Oranienstrasse 3 Görlitzer Bahnhof U Opposite the legendary SO36 club is the self proclaimed ‘home of punk and hardcore’ in Kreuzberg. Both a clothes store and record store along with tickets for local punk and rock gigs, Core-Tex is a Mecca for those with a penchant for punk. CP Modern Graphics Oranienstrasse 22 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-7.30pm Sat 030 615 88 10 www.modern-graphics.de Kottbuster Tor U This comic shop has all kind of comics,
  • 17. 9 8 Shopping Shopping graphic novels and photography books, including a big collection in English. It also sells posters, figures and puppets of characters from movies and comics. It is small and a bit chaotic but really interest- ing, and the staff are friendly. AA Friedrichshain East of Eden Schreiner Strasser. 10 www.wix.com/eastofedenberlin English language bookshop reminiscent more of your Grandparents dishevelled living room than your average bookstore. East of Eden,only five minutes walk from Karl-MarxAllee, is ideally suited for trav- ellers on a budget needing a book to accompany them.With a selection rang- ing from biographies and pamphlets to poetry anthologies, visitors are unlikely to leave empty handed. Enthusiastic staff will be happy to help with your search and may even offer a fresh cup of tea whilst you mull over the options - help- ing even further with the budgeting! Be warned however, it is all to easy lose a few hours in the snug couches leafing through a classic. AE Flea Market at Boxhagener Platz Boxhagener Platz 10am-6pm Sun Frankfurter Tor U This leafy, cobble stoned square is the perfect venue for sifting through bric- a-brac on a lazy Sunday afternoon. Like all good flea markets, it can at times re- semble a jumble sale, with wares often unceremoniously strewn across tables. From posters to teapots, vinyl to vintage wear,there is something to suit all tastes. If you work up a thirst after all that bar- gain hunting, re-energise at one of the many bars and cafes along nearby Simon- Dach Strasse. LL Flea Market at Ostbahnhof Erich-Steinfurth Strasse 1 9am-5pm Sun Ostbahnhof S Antiques and collectibles abound at this flea market located just outside the Ost- bahnhof S-bahn station. Pick up a gramo- phone with accompanying vinyl,bag your- self an antique china set,flick through old photos and postcards or kick-start your coin collection. And for those looking for GDR memorabilia, an assortment of military hats, pins, walkie-talkies and other cold war relics are up for grabs. LL Mondos Arts Schreinerstrasse 6 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat 030 42 02 02 25 www.mondosarts.de Samariterstrasse U Inexplicably named after a brand of condoms, this little shop-cum-T-shirt printing press is full of kitsch ostalgie trinkets. Create you’re very own card- board model of the TV Tower, pick up a few Ampelmann knick-knacks (key- rings, sweets, badges and more) or test your Cold War knowledge with a DDR quiz book. More genuine artefacts are also available with a selection of maps, household goods and board games all hailing from the GDR era for sale. LL Your Record Dealer Warschauer Strasse 12pm-8pm Mon-Sat Frankfurter Tor U A little shop of vinyl records where you can find almost all the music from the 50’s to the 90’s. Music lovers could spend hours just looking around al- bums of all styles: punk, rock, soul, indie. Prices range between €7 and €30. AA Prenzlauer Berg Mauer Park Flohmarkt Bernauer Strasse 63-64 Every Sunday 0176 29 25 00 21 www.mauerparkmarkt.de Bernauer Str U Every Sunday along Bernauer Strasse a popular market blossoms out of no- where.Transforming a desolate and rath- er forlorn little strip of park land into a heaving mass of white booths. The most striking thing about Mauer Park is prob- ably the huge number of bikes on sale here – most just outside the market. However, furnishings, art and t-shirts also come in prodigious quantities with haggling for better prices a serious step towards saving. Some stalls also sell clothes by the kilo, so weigh your wares and head to the numerous crepe stalls or bars to take the pressure off your feet. If you like bargains head down to this flea market as most things can be found – they just might not be all in one piece! JB Bücherwald Sredzkistrasse 48. www.bookcrossing.de Eberswalder Strasse U While walking around Prenzlauer Berg streets you can find this tree which Vintage Wares at Mauer Park
  • 18. 11 10 Shopping Shopping keeps books in the holes of its trunk. It is one of the initiatives of the company Bookcrossers for sharing literature and promoting reading.You are free to both leave and take books, but remember to keep them in a waterproof bag. AA Da Capo Kastanienallee 96 11am-7p.m Mon-Fri; 11am-4pm Sat www.da-capo-vinyl.de U-Bahn Eberswalder Strasse This shop has not only some of the best jazz, pop and rock records but also classic music vinyls, audio books and a selection of German modern music. There is a record player for lis- tening to them and a little room dedi- cated to books. Prices vary up to €10. AA Luxus International Kastanienallee 101 11am-8pm Mon-Wed; 11am-8.30pm Thurs-Sat/1.30pm-7.30pm Sun www.luxus-international.de U-Bahn Eberswalder Strasse For those tourists tired of the typical souvenirs of Berlin, this tiny shop of- fers unique ones. You can find t-shirts, key rings, figures, books, stickers and lamps with original images of the city on them. There are also other original things such as rings made with com- puter keys, colourful bags or CDs. AA Marrakesch Art Lifestyle Hussemannstrasse 9 11am-7pm Mon-Fri/11am-5pm Sat 030 44 35 63 86. www.marrakesch-art-lifestyle.de U-Bah Eberswalder Strasse This shop sells many mudejar style tools (Islamic art). You can find everything from mirrors,tables,lamps and all kind of silver crockery to cushions, blankets or sleepers. Although it is tiny and packed with items, you can find really beautiful things in here. AA Oye Records Oderberger Strass 4 1pm-8pm Mon-Fri; 12am-6pm Sat 030 66 64 78 21 www.oye-records.com U-Bahn Eberswalder Strasse This shop contains a huge techno and house record collection which you can either buy or rent. But if you pre- fer some hip-hop, reggae, jazz or soul, you can also find it here. There are four record players available for listen- ing to the vinyl before you buy. It is also a small shelf with many CDs. AA Flea Market at Arkonaplatz Arkonaplatz, Prenzlauer Berg 10am-5pm U-Bahn Bernauer Strasse Tucked away in a quiet corner of family- friendly Prenzlauer Berg, this small flea market is a scaled down (and less over- whelming) version of the one found at nearby Mauerpark. Once you’ve bat- tled through the fleet of buggies, prams and pushchairs, you’ll discover bundles of vintage clothing and a miscellaneous array of antique furniture, from clocks to rocking chairs to writing bureaus. LL The Recordstore Brunnenstrasse 186 12am-8pm Mon-Sat 030 28 44 46 80 www.recordstore-berlin.com U-Bahn Rosenthaler Platz If you are looking either for old or new records, you will probably find them here.This shop has a big collection of jazz,country,rock and roll and 70s rock. But if you prefer new music it has also a great indie selection. Prices range from €5 to €40 depending on the bands and albums. There is also a “sale section” where you can find records from €1. AA Schoneberg Winterfeldt Markt Winterfeldtplatz, Schöneberg. 8am-1pm Wed, Sat. U-Bahn Nollendorfplatz. Throw yourself into the hustle and bus- tle of this popular farmer’s market with Berlin’s discerning shoppers demanding quality wares over bargain deals. Half the fun is wending through this labyrinth of gourmet food, hand-made jewellery and clothing stalls taking in the wide gamut of sights and smells. Foodies will love the range of tasty treats on offer, from crisp fried churros and zucchini fritters to regional cheeses and flax- seed oil pressed in front of your very eyes.After a full afternoon of gorging sit down at one of many cafés coming off the square for a well-earned digestif.AS KaDeWe Tauentzienstrasse 21-24 10am-8pm Mon-Thurs; 10am-9pm Fri; 9.30am-8pm Sat 212 10 www.kadewe-berlin.de U-Bahn Wittenbergplatz Serving shopaholics for over a century, Kaufhaus des Westens – otherwise known as KaDeWe – is Berlin’s an- swer to Harrods. Boasting eight floors, 60,000 sqm (the equivalent of nine football fields) and every brand name under the sun, it is the largest depart- ment store on the continent. If you’re pushed for time or your budget doesn’t accommodate the steep prices, head straight to the legendary food hall on the sixth floor, which sells everything from super-noodles to €17,000 bottles of cognac. LL