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BERLINSIDE
OUT
a summer guide to the
city
inside the guide
introducing berlinsideout 2-3
The basics 4-9
history 10-24
A Brief History of Berlin........10-11
Landmarks..............................12-13
Churches.................................14-15
Palaces....................................16-17
Memorials................................18-19
Museums.................................20-24
ART
Street Art............................26-31
Galleries.............................32-33
25-33
OUT & about
Platzes & Strasses...........35-37
Activities...........................38-39
Lakes & Parks..................40-41
Food & DRink
34-41
42-53
Cafes........................................43-44
Street Food..............................45
Eating Vegan...........................46-47
Fast Food & Restaurants.......49-50
Sweet Eats...............................51-53
Survival Tips......................4-5
Making Berlin Buddies.....6
Getting Around..................7-8
Accomodations.................9
Shopping
nightlife
Markets................................55
Hidden Treasures...............56-57
54-57
Comedy & Film...........59
Drinking Holes.............60-61
Clubs............................62-63
meet the team 64-65
58-63
1 berlinsideout
full book: http://www.lulu.com/content/e-book/berlinside-out/19071547
2 3BERLINSIDE OUT
So you’ve shelled out on a summer trip to Berlin. The sun is likely shining and you have one
of the world’s most vibrant cities at your disposal - a city that bubbles over with creativity and
dynamism, a city where you can spend entire weekends in the same nightclub dressed in your
least impressive clothes, where gigs spontaneously erupt outside S-Bahn stations and where
street art and a strange curried sausage snack rule supreme. It’s all terribly exciting, but now
what?
BerlinsideOut is here to help. We’ll take you to the historical tourist hotspots – the Check Point
Charlies and the Brandenburg Gates, but we’re really interested in filling you in on the places
where the locals hang out in the hot months. Think parks, lakes, outdoor cinemas, flea markets,
rooftop bars and quirky hipster cafes.
In addition to providing the lowdown on the city’s museums, monuments, food, art scene,
nightlife, shopping and outdoor activities, we’ll briefly chart Berlin’s history, as well as provid-
ing a host of hot tips for how to navigate the city’s daunting transport network - and how to
find a suitable place to rest your head.
To cut your chances of injury or a stern telling off, we’ll give you a good idea of how to avoid
a confrontation with an angry Berliner. There’s also a few German phrases thrown in to charm
any Herr or Dame that might catch your eye, as well as helping you make platonic buddies, of
course.
For our journey, we’ve recruited the city’s Ampelmen: the iconic traffic-light twins you’ll see as
you cross streets in East Berlin.
Mr Green is our intrepid urban adventurer – a dude who’s got the bit between his teeth to seek
out new sights, sounds and tastes. He’s our story’s real hero.
Let’s not forget Mr Red, though – his job is to make you stop and take stock of things and to
highlight important bits you might have missed.
Both were brought to life by Matthew Harris-Edwards, who made sure the duo are seriously
embracing the summer vibe throughout this guide. They won’t be caught without a floral shirt,
shades and a beer in their hand - and neither should you.
So without further ado, sit back, relax and soak up the sun as we bring you BerlinsideOut: our
definitive summer guide to Germany’s buzzing capital.
Tristram Colledge
Berlinside Out berlin
basics
4 5BERLINSIDE OUT
Bag check
Berlin can reach above 30°C in the
summer, so you need to make sure
you’re prepared to handle the heat
wherever you may find yourself during
your wanderings. Below are a few
handy suggestions for things to pack
before you go discoverin’...
- Sun cream: even if you’re not planning
on much walking, this stuff will be your
staple when the sun is out
- A towel: for spontaneous trips to
one of Berlin’s awesome lakes or the
Badeschiff
- Cash: it can be very difficult to find
shops which accept non-German credit
or debit cards, so make sure you always
have enough change on you to cover
foodandanyemergencybuys(€20aday
should be enough)
- Passport/ID: planning on climbing the
Reichstagdomeorcheckingouttheinfa-
mousBerlinclubscene?Carryingaform
of ID on you is always essential
- Student Card: lucky you for having
one of these bad boys in the first place!
Most museums and galleries offer a
discounted price for students, so it’s
worth carrying around
Key Phrases
Most Germans are excellent at speak-
ing English, but it’s always useful (and
polite!) to have a few key phrases up
your sleeve...
The essentials
Please - Bitte
Thank you - Danke schön
Sorry/excuse me - Entschuldigung
How much does this cost? - Wieviel
kostet das?
I would like x, please - Ich möchte x,
bitte
I am allergic to... - Ich bin allergisch
auf...
Delicious! - Lecker!
Without cheese, please - Ohne käse,
bitte
The bill, please - Die rechnung, bitte
Do you speak English? - Sprechen Sie
Englisch?
Bye! - Tschüß!
Getting to know Berliners
How are you? - Vie geht’s?
I’m good - Mir geht es gut
I come from... - Ich komme aus...
What are you up to tonight? - Si bis
heute abend?
Can I go clubbing with you tonight? -
Kann ich heute Abend mit dir in den
Club gehen?
I’d love to be the reason for your sleep-
less night! - Würde gerne der Grund
für Deine schlaflose Nacht sein!
Emergencies
Help! My hair is on fire - Hilfe! Mein
Haar is auf Feuer
I have a tooth infection - Ich habe ein
Zahn-Infektion
Pharmacy - Apotheke
Hospital - Krankenhaus
Where is the bathroom? - Wo ist die
Toilette?
Do you have a spare room? - Haben
Sie noch ein Zimmer frei?
How to avoid be-
ing shouted at by
a German in five
easy steps (also
known as “avoiding
game over”)
1) Have you noticed that pavements
and roads here have a smooth sec-
tion? It’s about a metre wide and
snakes around the whole of the city.
No? Well, now is the time to take no-
tice: this is the cycle path. Reserved for
cyclists. Not pedestrians. Wandering
into this as you roam the city at any
time of day or night is akin to being
sucked into a black hole: unpredictable
and potentially very messy.
2) Take your recyclables home and
dispose of them in the correct manner
there. I repeat: TAKE YOUR RECY-
CLABLES HOME AND DISPOSE OF
THEM THERE. The lack of bins around
the city is not the city’s fault. Don’t litter,
and definitely don’t put plastic, glass,
paper or cardboard in any bin which
isn’t specially marked to collect them.
Yes, this means that you’ll be carrying
around your rubbish all day, but it also
means that you’ll be helping to save
the planet. Go figure.
3) One good way of saving money
at a restaurant is to order tap water
(Leitungswasser). One good way of
annoying the restaurant you’re eating
at is to order tap water.
4) There are three golden rules when
going clubbing in Germany: first, dress
down (preferably in black) - dressing up
will be sure to get you turned away at
the door because you’re clearly trying
too hard; second, don’t turn up wasted:
pre-drinking here is rarely excessive, so
when you arrive at 2am and can’t meet
the discerning bouncer’s eye at Water-
gate, she’ll just signal for you to keep
walking back round to the exit; third,
cameras and taking photos in clubs are
prohibited.No, you won’t be able to show
off the fact that you got into Berghain on
socialmedia,butyes,thisdoesmeanthat
anything that happens in Berghain stays
in Berghain.
5) German people are comfortable with
being naked, especially when water is
involved.So stop trying to put your pants
on under your towel (almost falling over
as you do so) and embrace the feel of
fresh air on your skin. Not for too long,
though. That would be weird.
6) You know how in most places the
red light for pedestrians really means
you can cross the road if no cars are
coming? Well, not in Germany. Ger-
mans will quite happily stand at a
red light for minutes on end, patiently
waiting for nothing to cross their paths.
Break this rule at your own peril.
Summer survival
So what’s the
deal with wifi
here?
When it comes to wifi provision in
places like hotels and restaurants, it’s
taken Germany a while to catch up
with other European countries - this is
because German law holds all internet
providers liable for the activity of its
users, both legal and illegal. Providers
are able to avoid this liability by asking
potential users to register before they
can access their network, which is a
faff many people would rather avoid.
On a positive note, discussions are
underway as we speak, and the laws
surrounding liability may be revised
and relaxed later this year.
You don’t need to panic just yet: if you’re
in Berlin for a short stay, catching up on
some crucial social media time outside
of your hotel / hostel / yurt should not be
too difficult. Most cafés and restaurants
have wifi which you can access without
any difficulty, although there may be a
time limit for internet usage (generally
around 30 minutes).
Street wifi is also available in over 100
hotspots throughout the city - download
the“Hotspotfinder”appforacomprehen-
sive list.
Words by Helene Burgess and Maddy
Morris; graphic by Maddy Morris.
6 7BERLINSIDE OUT
ARRIVING IN BERLIN
There are two possible airports to land at when visiting Berlin: Tegel and Schönenfeld. To get from Tegel airport to the city
center, use either the TXL or X9 express bus services. Schönenfeld airport offers Tram, S-Bahn and Bus services from the
airport to the city center. To find out which is best for you, find your hostel or hotel’s nearest station, plan your route using
the maps at the end of this guide.
For the rest of your stay, Berlin offers a variety of quick and cheap methods to explore the city, as outlined below:
getting around
U-Bahn | Sun - Thurs: 5:30 - 00:30 hr;
Fri - Saturday: 24hrs |
The German underground predominantly serves the Western side of the city, with only one
line running to the east. The line most useful to tourists is the U2 which runs under the entire
city centre from the Zoologischer Garten to Alexanderplatz.
Trams
| Mon - Sun: 24hrs |
The Tram and MetroTram mostly run on the eastern side of the city. These trams stop more
frequently than the S-bahn, making them very useful for short local journeys. Tourists will
mostly frequently come across the MetroTram in Prenzlauer Berg and Friedrichschain.
S-Bahn | Sat - Thurs: 5:30 - 0:00 hr;
Friday: 24hrs |
The S-Bahn runs throughout Berlin, with a few lines to the suburbs. Lines which tourists will
find particularly useful are the S41 and S42 which make up the ring tram, running a circle
around the main inner city Berlin area.
Buses | Times and routes vary |
Berlin has an extensive bus network which complements the U-Bahn and Tram networks.
Whilst the buses can be extremely useful and they run throughout the night, they are a lot
slower and less reliable than the other transport options listed.
It’s all very well traipsing around the city with Brad from the US who thinks Berlin is totally awesome, man, and starts play-
ing his guitar every time he comes across a piece of the Berlin Wall, but hanging out with some (real) Berliners might just
be more a little more fun. Want to spend some quality time with locals who know all of the city’s secrets, or improve your
German so you can understand when that handsome Herr or foxy Fräulein is chatting you up in Berghain or Watergate?
Here are a couple of good places to start...
meet-ups (meetup.com)
After registering your profile on the website, simply search for Berlin-based groups and take your pick: there’s a group
catering for every kind of interest and hobby here, from yoga aficionados through to start-up networkers and internationals
in the city looking for some fun evening activities. Many of them use English as their main language.You’ll need to join each
group in order to see the details of the next planned meeting and other like-minded individuals intending to go along. Each
group has a different timetable, although some organise events several times a week. Joining in means that you’ll start to
feel like a local and you’ll soon have masses of mates and a bustling social calendar.
tandem lessons (tandempartners.org)
Finding a language partner through this site is completely free - and it also couldn’t be easier to use. All you have to do is
select your mother tongue, then your ‘target’ language (which you are hoping to improve) and finally the area you’re current-
ly based in: you’ll then be matched with hundreds of individuals whose mother tongue is your target language, who you can
message through the site. It’s a good idea to make sure that the two of you have enough knowledge to hold a short conver-
sation in at least one of the languages you speak in common before meeting - no-one likes awkward silences and baffled
gesturing, after all...
Other than that, meet your language partner as often as you like and practice away to your heart’s content! Who knows?
Your level may progress so fast you might be able to try out some of your flirting skills around the city on actual Germans in
actual German. That’s when things will get interesting: they do say the best place to learn a language is in bed...
Helene Burgess
making berliner buddies
8 9BERLINSIDE OUT
Summer in Berlin is the prime time for
that nice stroll you’ve been meaning
to take.
However, if you don’t want to sweat,
get caught in the rain, or waste pre-
cious time while your friends try
their best to make sense of the upside
down city map, Berlin’s public metro
buses, Bus 100 or Bus 200 can be life
savers for a low price.
These two bus routes conveniently run
through many of Berlin’s major historic
sites.
For those on a limited budget or those
who want to explore the city in their own
time, these are ideal options.
Of course, these buses are known to
just about every other tourist in town,
so you need to be swift in grabbing a
good seat on the top deck!
Bus100inparticularcangetextremely
crowded,especiallyduringpeakhours
and at stops located at top attractions
such as the Reichstag.
If you are looking for a more compre-
hensive Berlin tour, you should try and
persuade a local along too.
Whilesometelloffriendlybuscaptains
keen to entertain with running com-
mentary,othersshouldbepreparedfor
a more lackluster ride.
Ruonan Ma
100/200 Metro Bus Tour
Which Ticket to
Buy?
Tickets for public transport can be
bought at both airports. Berlin is divid-
ed into three ticketing zones (A, B and
C), but as the vast majority of attrac-
tions are located within zones A and B,
it is cheapest to buy a ticket for the AB
zone and buy singles to zone C as and
when you need them.
Daily ticket: Ideal for short stays, a dai-
ly ticket costs 7€ per day for zone AB.
Weekly ticket: For stays of seven or
more days, this ticket costs 30€ for
zones AB.
Berlin WelcomeCard and Berlin City-
TourCard: Prices start from 19.50€ for
48 hours. This includes discounts to
over 200 attractions. It is worth check-
ing what you wish to see first, as many
attractions are free.
Any additional tickets required can be
bought at ticket machines located at
every U-Bahn and S-Bahn station and
on each Tram and MetroTram. Before
you can use your ticket, it must be
validated. This is done by placing the
ticket into the yellow ticket stamper
machines located in each U-Bahn and
S-Bahn station and on the Tram and
MetroTram.
Cycling
Cycling in Berlin is extremely popular
and is a great way to see the sights,
especially those further out of the city
centre. Berlin’s parks, green spac-
es and lakes are best experienced
by bike. Rental places are common
throughout the city with prices start-
ing around 10€ a day. Rent A Bike 44
(Mahlower Str. 9) is the lowest rental
place at just 4€ for the whole day.
Top Tips
- Remember to press the stop button
on the tram when it is your stop, espe-
cially late at night
- Download the BVG app free to make
journey planning easy
- Station names aren’t always easy to
spot from the train - make sure you pay
attention to the stop announcer
- Cycle lanes are often on the pave-
ment at tram stops, watch out for
cyclists
- A lack of barriers does not mean that
you don’t have to pay! Plain clothes
ticket officers frequently get on trains
and will issue large fines if you are
caught without a ticket
Grace Burke and Abgina Sohail
accomodation
Finding somewhere to stay which suits
you is just as important as deciding
what to fill your days with. Berlin
offers a wonderful variety of options
for young people. Whether you are
searching for the luxurious and no
expenses spared getaway, or the shoe
string budget holiday, Berlin will have
the perfect place for you.
€ = 30€ and under
€€ = 30 – 60€
€€€ = 60€ and over.
Hostels:
Hostels are an absolutely great way of
immersing yourself in the spirit of explor-
ing a city. Cheap and (usually) of a high
standard,hostelsinBerlinareconvenient
and reliable, giving you more than your
money’s worth. Here are our top three
recommended hostels:
Wombat’s Berlin: Great to meet other
travellers; own bar; hostel run events.
Alte Schönhauserstr | €. | wom-
bats-hostels.com/berlin/
PLUS Hostel: All you can eat breakfast
buffet; free Wifi.
Warschauer Platz. | € | plushostels.
com/plusberlin
Meininger Hostel Central Station:
Perfect central location; best hostel for
a short stay.
Ella - Trebe - Straße 9, | €€€ |
meininger-hotels.com/en/hotels/berlin/
central-station/
Hotels:
Berlin has become the land of boutique
hotels, which aim to be smaller and
more intimate establishments than big
company chains. A boutique hotel is
a great way to still meet fellow travel-
lers, but tend to be a better way than
hostels to meet locals.
Tryp by Wyndham Berlin City East:
Buffet breakfast included in price; free
wifi.
Ruschestraße 45 | €€ | Book via triva-
go.com for best deal
Michelberger Hotel: Breakfast includ-
ed; access to popular city hotel bar;
onsite activities
Warschauer Str. 39 | €€€ | michel-
bergerhotel.com/en/
The Circus Hotel: All ensuite rooms;
own local popular bar; garden court-
yard for BBQs
1 Rosenthaler Strasse | €€ | circus-ber-
lin.de
airbnb
Airbnb offers you the chance to feel
what it is like to live in Berlin rather
than simply visit it. Often you will have
the apartment to yourself, but occa-
sionally travellers will live with the host
who will show guests the city through
native eyes.
couchsurfing
This option is great for those who are
simply passing through Berlin and need
a place to stay for a maximum of two
nights. The site hooks visitors up with
hosts who have a spare bed or their sofa
to offer weary travellers for free.
Words by Jessica Harris-Edwards and
Molly Wyatt; graphic by Maddy Morris.
10 11BERLINSIDE OUT
Berlin is found-
ed in today’s
Nikolaiviertei
quarter.The area
becomes part of
the Margraviate
of Brandenburg,
a principality of
the Holy Roman
Empire, under the
rule of Albert the
Bear in 1157. As
the town grows,
Berlin merges
with the neigh-
bouring town of
Cölln (now Muse-
um Island) and is
given its own coat
of arms - a bear -
by Albert in 1432.
1415
Frederick I be-
comes the Elector
of Margraviate of
Brandenburg. He
is part of the Ho-
henzollern family
who rule Berlin,
the Kingdom of
Prussia, and the
Empire of Germa-
ny up until 1918.
12th century
Frederick William takes
over as the Elector of
Bradneburg and begins
promoting immigration and
religious tolerance, which
helps to expand and grow
Berlin’s population. Jewish
families from Austria and
refugees from Bohemia,
Poland, and Salzburg
arrive in Berlin.
1640
Elector Frederick III be-
comes the king of Prussia,
makes Berlin the capital,
and starts construction of
the Charlottenberg Palace.
(Crown)
1701
Prussian troops
help defeat Napo-
leon in the Battle
of Waterloo and
reclaim
the Quadriga.
Berliners
attempt to
overthrow the
Hohenzollern
family, but the
revolution is
crushed.This
is just one of
many attempt-
ed revolutions
across Eu-
rope following
the success
of the French
Revolution.
1848
1815
Ottoman Von Bismarck
is appointed minister
president of Prussia. He
begins a series of military
campaigns with the aim
of unifying the Germanic
states. Bismarck reclaims
old German lands from
Denmark, Austria, and
France.
The Reichstag
is built to handle
municipal
government
operations.
WWI begins.
1914
The German Empire is
established after a victory
over France, and Germany
becomes the most power-
ful European nation.
1871
1884
1862
End of World War I:The
Hohenzollern family
are overthrown and the
Weimar Republic begins.
The Treaty of Versailles
forces Germany to pay
high reparations, leading
the nation to struggle
economically.
Communist Party of Ger-
many attempts a revolu-
tion. Communist leaders
Rosa Luxenburg and Karl
Liebknecht are executed.
1919
1918
Wolfgang Kapp, founder
of the German Fatherland
Party, overthrows the
Weimar Republic but is
forced to give back power
after a general strike.
1920
Wall Street Crash and the
GreatDepression:Berliners
burn their cash for
fires as it is cheaper than
buying firewood.
1929
Hitler is elected Chan-
cellor of Germany and
suspends the constitution
after left-wing protestors
set fire to the Reichstag.
Germany invades
Poland;Beginning
of World War II.
Hitler commits suicide in the
Führerbunker underneath
the Reich Chancellery.
Berlin is captured days later.
Germany, and Berlin, are
split into four sectors: the
American, British, French,
and Soviet.The split be-
tween East and West Berlin
begins.
Kristallnacht - the Night
of Shattered Glass.
Jewish communities
are attacked and Jews
imprisoned.
Jews sent to concentration
camps. Only 1,200 Jews
survive the Holocaust.
1933
1943
1939
1945
1938
1989
Berlin Wall is knocked
down.
Residents of East Berlin
seek refuge in West from
harsh conditions, leading
to a huge population loss
for the eastern half of the
city.
Berlin Wall is erect-
ed. East Berlin-
ers are no longer
allowed to travel into
West Berlin and ac-
cess from the West
is restricted.
Berlin becomes the capital
of Germany.
1961
1991
1945-1960
A brief history of Berlin
Word by Jessica Harris-Edwards and
Amanda Hoover; graphics by Maddy
Morris.
12 13BERLINSIDE OUT
Pariser Platz | (Bus) 100, 200 to Unter den
Linden; (U) Brandenburg Tor | 24 hr | Free
It is always satisfying to visit another
country who shares England’s love of
humiliating the French.
Germany has far outdone the English
in reminding them of their crushing de-
feat in 1815 with the neoclassical Bran-
denburg Gate and Pariser Platz, both
designed in the late 18th century by
Carl Gotthard Laudhans. Pariser Platz,
known previously as “The Square”,
gained its name after Prussian troops
seized Paris from Napoleon in 1814.
The goddess who now sits on top of
the Gate and glares at the French
embassy was also changed to Victoria,
goddess of Victory, after Napoleon’s
defeat.
Brandenburg Gate
A visit to the Brandenburg Gate is not
just about basking in the warm fuzzy
feelings that come with laughing at the
French: Hotel Albion, where Michael
Jackson dangled his baby over the
balcony, sits next to the square; bullet
holes from WW2 are visible in the Gate
itself; and it’s a fantastic point to start
any tour of Berlin as the Reichstag,
Victory Tower, and Holocaust Memorial
are all within easy walking distance.
If you don’t fancy the walking tours
provided by Sandemans, then you can
always opt to take a horse and car-
riage, or the travelling bar which leaves
from the square, around the city.
Jessica Harris-Edwards
Großer Stern 1 | (Bus) 100, 106,
187 to Brandenburg Gate | Mon-Fri
9-18:30hr; Sat-Sun 9:30–19hr |€3
adult, €2.50 student
Victory Column
Siegessäule
Sitting in the heart of the Tiergarten,
the Siegessäule (Victory Column)
provides a spectacular reminder of
Germany’s imperial past.The column
is made up of three pillars representing
German victories in the reunification
wars, and a fourth added by the Nazis
in anticipation of victory in the Second
World War. It provides a commanding
view over the city of Berlin for Viktoria,
the bronze statue standing imposingly
on top.
To share Viktoria’s panorama view of
Berlin, take on the challenge and climb
the 285 claustrophobic steps to reach
the observation deck at the top of the
column. Although the climb is tiring,
there are regular seats to take a break,
and the breath-taking views from the
top encompassing the Reichtag, TV
Tower, Tiergarten and distant Berlin
suburbs are well worth it.There’s also
another observation deck near the
bottom of the tower which, whilst it
does not offer spectacular views, is still
worth visiting to admire the rich materi-
als used in the towers construction.
At the bottom of the column is a small
museum which briefly outlines its his-
tory. Although it is interesting, it is not a
crucial stop and can be skipped if short
on time.
Grace Burke
spectacular view. Before starting the
slow walk up the dome’s winding ramp,
be sure to grab an earpiece. As if by
magic, after just a couple of steps on
the path, a German gentleman begins
whispering sweet nothings in your ear,
giving you the lowdown on the history
and symbolism of both the old and new
components of the building. The au-
dioguide is incredibly informative and
insightful, pointing out important land-
marks as you circle around the ramp
- and, amazingly, it involves absolutely
no button pushing.
The important message for the building
both physically and metaphorically is
transparency, and by glancing down
the magnificent whirlpool/tornado
style glass centrepiece, you’ll catch a
glimpse of the bright blue seats of the
chamber below.
If you’re into your German politics, make
sure to book a visit on a Wednesday,
Thursday or Friday to catch a glimpse of
Angela and the gang in full swing.
After coming down the ramp there’s
a photographic display to check out,
showing iconic images of the building
over the years. And just to entice you
further – all of this is FREE! Book up
now and dome’t miss out.
Tristram Colledge
If there’s one absolutely essential ac-
tivity for your time in Berlin, it’s to take
a trip to the Reichstag. A melting pot of
old and new architecture, the German
parliament (Bundestag) and its dome
offer a stunning panorama over the city
- and one of the slickest audio guides
you’ll ever experience.
But first things first: you ain’t going
anywhere if you don’t book your visit
in advance. Check out the Bundestag
website well before your visit and make
a request by entering the names and
DOBs of everyone in your party.You
can either book a guided tour (these
are like gold-dust, so booking a few
months in advance is recommended)
or a simple visit to the roof terrace and
dome, which includes the aforemen-
tioned daddy of all audio guides.Both
types of tour start with a security and
ID check at the visitors’ entrance, so
make sure you’re carrying a passport
or driving licence (not your old student
ID which is being held together with
sellotape). Then it’s up to the roof  to
grab a quick couple of snaps of the
The Reichstag
The dome is open until midnight
so make use of those spectacular
twilight hours by booking a trip late
in the day.
Checkpoint Charlie
Once the location of a tense stand-off
between American and Soviet tanks
which nearly kick-started WW3, Check-
point Charlie is now the site of Berlin’s
number one tourist battleground. Get
within a short distance of the famous
Cold War crossing point and you’ll start
to see and hear the hordes amassing.
Tour guides are forced to shout above
the chaos of traffic as their listeners
huddle together on the cramped pave-
ments. Amidst the madness, Eastern
European actors dressed in US army
outfits are on hand for a photo - for
about the cost of a coffee that is. If you
try and take a pic without their permis-
sion, be prepared for them to get sud-
denly get very bashful and cover their
faces. Bring a passport and some extra
cash if you want to add to the authen-
ticity by buying some Checkpoint Char-
lie stamps too. For a further few Euros,
hit up one of the numerous souvenir
shops/tourist traps to buy a postcard
complete with a ‘fragment’ of the wall.
For more history (there’s plenty of it),
pop into the nearby Checkpoint Charlie
Museum, but be prepared to negotiate
a mass of hard-to-tackle wall texts.
Perhaps a better bet is The Wall Pan-
orama – an emotive exhibit featuring a
gigantic impression of Berlin during the
East/West days by artist Yadegar Asisi.
And after you’ve had your fill, turn back
into the crowds, grab an overpriced bev-
erage from an American chain and, wait
for it… check Charlie off your list.
Tristram Colledge
Friedrichstraße | (U) Stadtmitte | 24hr;
Checkpoint Charlie Museum Mon-Sun
9-22hr; The Wall Panorama Mon-Sun
10-18 hr | Free, €5-25 for additional
museums
PlatzderRepublik|(U)Bundestag|Mon-
Sun 8-24 hr | Free
14 15BERLINSIDE OUT
For a breathtaking, panoramic view
of the city from 50m off the ground, a
journey through Berlin’s largest church
is well worth the 267 steps.
The Berlin Cathedral, known for its
striking architecture and dome gallery,
is one of Berlin’s most recognizable
landmarks. Completed in 1905, the ca-
thedral has a rich history as one of the
few architectural remnants to survive
World War II.
Composed of intricate pillars, arch-
ways, statues, and murals trimmed in
gold, the sanctuary is an impressive
space full of details to explore. Stand-
ing in the center and looking up, the
complex designs beneath the dome
are illuminated by the natural light
shining from the ceiling’s windows.
A walk downstairs and through the
crypt leads to the resting place of the
Hohenzollen family, and the climb to
the top includes places to stop and see
various models of the cathedral while
also reading about its unusual design.
Climbing to the top also provides the
perfect spot to snap some photos of
the landscape and see sights from
a new perspective. This excursion
combines the chance to take in some
of Berlin’s history with stellar views and
the chance to relax in the quiet sanctu-
ary of a church.
Amanda Hoover
For those looking to take a breather
from a fast-paced itinerary, St Hedwig’s
Cathedral is perfect.
This is not the best place for a pint or a
picnic, but the regular ethereal music
presents a welcome break from the hus-
tle and bustle outside.
Expect to emerge with a clear mind, free
from any last vestiges of travel clutter.
Not a music-lover? Pay a solemn visit
to the grave of Bernard Lichtenberg,
leader of the Catholic resistance during
WWII.
Be prepared to be pleasantly surprised
by the building’s modern 1960s interior,
despite its classic 18th-century exterior.
With its geometric-patterned windows
and domed cupola, St Hedwig’s Cathe-
dral is definitely one of the alternative
st. hedwig’s cathedrale
Hinter der Katholischen Kirche 3 | (U)
Französische Straße ; (Bus) 100/200
to Staatsoper | Mon - Sat 10-17hr; Sun
13-17hr | Free
Gendarmenmarkt
A quaint little square, just right for
those 18th century architecture enthu-
siasts. The two churches (Französi-
cher Dom and Deutscher Dom) and
the concert hall make up the square,
with the grandiose structures of all
three enough to make you feel small.
In fact, you can climb the tower in the
Französicher Dom for some stunning
views of Berlin’s historic skyline for
three euros - if you can stomach the
250 steps!
Though the winter months provide a
better time to visit with the Christmas
market, the historic square is still worth
your time and attention. It’s even worth
Gendarmenmarkt | (U)
Hausvogteiplatz, Stadtmitte |
Deutscher Dom: Mon-Sat 9-20hr; Sun
12-20hr | Adults: 7€, Students: 5€
must-sees in the city, not to be judged
by its religious cover.
Ruonan Ma
passing through just to admire the
area if pressed for time. There are also
guided tours and exhibitions available
if you do happen to have the time. If
history isn’t quite your cup of tea, then
treat yourself to an actual cup of tea,
coffee, or even nice meal at any of the
nearby cafes and restaurants.Cheaper
alternatives are also available from
food stands in the square. If you just
fancy a drink, then there are plenty of
beer gardens and pubs too.
Liam Govey
Am Lustgarten | (Bus) 200; → Lustgar-
ten | Mon-Sat: 9-20hr; Sun: 12-20hr |
Adults: €7; Students: €5
Berliner dom
Still visibly bearing its war scars from
1943, when the church was almost
entirely destroyed by an allied bombing
offensive, the Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächt-
nis Kirche (Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial
Church), in the heart of West Berlin,
is a very visual symbol of the extent of
the damage to Berlin during the Sec-
ond World War. Whilst a new church
has been built around the ruins of the
original, the main attraction at this site
is still the original building, which has
been preserved in its ruined state.
Breitscheidplatz | (U+S) Zoologisches
Garten; (U) Kufüstenstraße | Mon-Fri
10-18hr; Sat 10-17.30;hr Sun 12-
17.30hr | Free
Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial
Church Only the small ground floor area is ac-
cessible, playing host to an exhibition
on the building’s history, from its con-
ception to destruction and subsequent
rebuilding. Of particular interest is the
parish’s link to Nazi resistance and the
models of the church before and after
the bombing raid, highlighting the level
of destruction. Make sure you look up,
too, as the original ornately decorated
ceiling is still largely intact.
After visiting the original building,
it’s still briefly worth visiting the new
church to check out the stunning effect
of the blue glass tiles which make up
its walls. These create an unexpectedly
calming oasis within the hustle and
bustle of the centre of Berlin, provid-
ing a striking modern contrast to the
original building.
Grace Burke
16 17BERLINSIDE OUT
The Charlottenberg Palace is the
gateway to a sweeping royal garden
commissioned by 18th century royals
Sophie Charlotte and Fredrich III.
Now opened to the public, the sprawl-
ing fields of green hold trails for walk-
ing, biking, and running beneath the
shady canopy of trees on sunny spring
and summer days.
Nestled along the paths of various trails
and moats are several historic buildings.
Those walking the trails can stop to
explore mausoleum where the Hohen-
zollern family, a former dynasty of royals
of the German Empire, were laid to rest
or take in the Belvedere, a small garden
palacebuiltbyKingFrederickWilliamIIof
Prussia in the late 18th century.
Whatusedtoserveasaprivateretreatfor
royals now plays host to Berlin’s federal
porcelain collection.
Those looking to retreat from the bustle
of the city streets can take shelter under
the shade of trees along the moats and
ponds, which winds their way between
the palace, gardens, and other monu-
ments.
Schloss Charlottenberg
Gardens
As the old saying goes, the English
invented football whilst the rest of the
world got better at it. Nowhere is this
more apparent than with the current
world champion, Germany, who occa-
sionally plays home matches at this his-
toric stadium in West Berlin. The stadium
currently hosts the perennial‘yo-yo’team
of Germany’s top two divisions, Hertha
Berlin.
Initially built for the 1936 Olympics by
Werner March, some of the greatest mo-
ments in sporting history have occurred
within. From Jesse Owens’s historic gold
medal win in front of Adolf Hitler, right
through to that Zinedine Zidane head-
butt in the 2006 World Cup final, the
stadium has seen it all.
There is little around the stadium, apart
from the training ground, a few beer
and food stands and the stadium for
Hertha Berlin’s reserve side. However,
guided tours are available on event-free
days at 11€, though only in German.
Despite this, the tour takes you around
some of the most historic areas in sport.
More recently, the stadium hosted the
2015 Champions League final between
Juventus and Barcelona, a game that saw
Barcelona run out deserved 3-1 winners.
With the guided tour, you can visit the
very room in which the pre-final press
conferences were held.
As well as guided tours, you can also pop
to the Hertha Berlin club shop – pro-
moting the city’s top team – and pick
yourself up a memento. There are classic
shirts, footballs, and trinkets available. If
you feel like experiencing a Hertha home
game, then the football season starts in
August and stretches through to May.
With the Bundesliga producing some of
the world’s top talent in football, there’s
bound to be a game worth seeing.
Liam Govey
Olympic Stadium
Closer to the palace grounds, there’s a
small but meticulous garden of hedges,
roses, and various statues overlooking
thewater.Thepalace,whichisthelargest
inBerlin,servesastheidealbackdropfor
asunnyafternoonexploringthegardens.
Amanda Hoover
Spandauer Damm | (S) Westend | Tues-
Sun 10-18hr | Free
Sanssouci Park
Just outside of the energetic city of
Berlin lays the tranquil gem Sanssouci
Park, which offers a perfect escape
for anyone wanting to get away from
the usual hustle and bustle of city life.
Indeed, the acres of gardens, fountains
and decadent palaces were intend-
ed to be used as a retreat from royal
duties by Frederick II, when he created
them in 1745. Be transported back in
time by strolling along the wide boule-
vards, sitting amongst the wild flowers,
or enjoying a picnic on one of the many
sculpted lawns, as Prussian Empress-
es and Emperors once did.
The park is home to over six palaces,
temples, and a gallery. Start with the
gardens of Charlottenburg Schloss,
done in the style of a Grecian vine-
yard, before proceeding forwards
in time to the quaint roman bath
house just around the corner with its
still functioning water features. The
Chinese House, carved from marble
and adorned with gold statues, is also
worthy of a visit: it is an architectural
wonder and leaves you in easy walking
distance of all the park’s palaces.
	
The tickets for each palace include
an audio guide which will explain the
unique character, history and visitors
to each royal abode. Three different
versions of the guide help you tailor
your experience: the in-depth version,
perfect for the history buff, provides
great information on the occupants,
furniture and architecture; the brief
overview, for those in a rush; and the
children’s guide, which is fun to listen
to for people of all ages.
There is simply too much to do here in
one day to experience the park in the
carefree manner the Hohenzollern’s
intended it for. However, with the di-
versity of palaces and all those perfect
picnic spots just waiting to be enjoyed,
it will not be hard to find time to go
back to indulge in your royal fantasies.
Jessica Harris-Edwards
Zur Historischen Mühle 1, Potsdam |
(S) Potsdam Hauptbahnhof | Tues-Sun
10-18hr | 9 - 15€
Olympischer Platz 3 | (S) Olympias-
tadion | Mon-Sun 9-19hr | 7-11€
18 19BERLINSIDE OUT
A sudden turn in the winding forest
paths of Treptower Park will reveal the
dramatic Soviet War Memorial. Built
on top of the graves of over 7,000 Red
Army soldiers who fought in the Battle
of Berlin, the brutal granite statues and
sculptured lawns are a heart-breaking
tribute to those lost. This beautiful and
emotional physical reminder of just
what was lost during the Second World
War was created by a team of archi-
tects, engineers and artists, including
the famous Russian sculptor Yevgeny
Vuchetich.
Soviet War Memorial
The memorial consists of several stat-
ues of the men who died, gardens with
well-kept flowers, and plaques contain-
ing the speech Stalin made after the
war to praise the soldiers now buried
here. The most domineering aspect of
the memorial is the 12m tall statue of
Vasily Chuikov who supposedly risked
his life to save a German child who
had been abandoned during the Battle
of Berlin.
During the summer the area is a
strange and unsettling place to visit.
Children clamber and play over the
bowed heads of the statues, whilst
Russian tourists pray and mourn the
dead by laying fresh flowers. The
juxtaposition of vibrant life against the
omnipresence of death leaves one
feeling unsettled long after leaving this
impressive memorial.
Jessica Harris-Edwards
The memorial is a fascinating snapshot
of German history, taking into account
the wall’s erection right through to its
fall. Throughout the outdoor exhibition
are stories of escaping East Germans,
brutal accounts of those injured or
killed during the division, and excerpts
from the surrounding control towers.
Audio descriptions are available in
both English and German.
Though only a relatively young nation,
Germany’s history is plentiful, if bleak.
Located on Bernauer Straße, and
beginning just outside of Nordbahnhoff
station, the memorial spans 1.4 kilo-
metres. It’s the perfect place to walk on
a warm midsummer’s day, with a café
next to the Visitor Centre if you need
The Berlin Wall Memorial
refreshments. Even if you don’t neces-
sarily fancy anything educational, you
can just sit and enjoy the weather in
this uniquely historical location.
Should the heavens open, take shelter
inside the Visitor Centre just across
the road. On the ground floor you’ll find
tales of the divided city, with stories of
repression and revolution on the first
floor. On top of the building, you’ll get
some absolutely stunning views of this
historically fascinating street, as well
as the familiar Alexanderplatz skyline
that you’ll be familiar with by the end of
your stay.
Liam Govey
Bernauer Straße | (S) Nordbahnhoff;
(M) Bernauer Straße | Visitors Centre
Tues-Sun 10-18hr | Free
Puschkinallee | (S) Treptower Park |
24hrs | Free
You could be forgiven for mistaking this
site for an art installation, instead of
the strikingly radical memorial that it is.
On approach from the west, children
can regularly be seen playing amongst
the concrete blocks (called stelae) and
locals and tourists alike will often perch
on them, pausing on their way to reach
another part of the city. The occasional
bouquet of flowers lain in plain sight
and security guards patrolling the
edges of the stelae grid serve as a
quiet sign that this is a solemn place of
meditation, intended to remind people
of the horrors of the Holocaust.
Interpretations of the grid’s symbolic
meaning are almost as diverse as the
points from which one can view it: the
memorial is said to echo Prague’s Old
Jewish Cemetery, and it has been
suggested that the 2711 stelae each
represent the different Jewish com-
munities persecuted under Nazi rule.
However, one thing is for sure; enter-
ing the grid will make you feel uneasy,
and perhaps even claustrophobic, as
you experience the shifting shadows
and perspectives caused by the sur-
prisingly uneven, wave-like ground.
Designed by Peter Eisenmann, a New
York-based architect, the memorial was
opened in 2005, following some amount
of controversy surrounding the company
involved in producing the stelae.The un-
derground information centre, accessed
from the eastern corner of the memo-
rial, is worth a visit as it gives visitors a
touching insight into the plight of the six
million Jews who were oppressed, victi-
mised and murdered during the second
world war. This includes Sabina Haber-
HOlocaust Memorial
man, a holocaust survivor who spoke at
the memorial’s inauguration, and whose
family’s history is covered in the Room of
Families. Expect to spend two full hours
in the information centre if you rent an
audio guide.
Helene Burgess
Cora-Berliner-Straße 1 | (S) + (U)
Brandenburger Tor | Field of Stelae
24/7; Information Centre - Tues-Sun:
10hr-20hr | Free
Book lovers will find themselves re-
flectively clutching their prized tomes
closer to their chests after visiting the
Bibliotek Memorial. Constructed by
Italian architect Micha Ullman in 1995,
the eerie underground library was
inaugurated to mark the book burning
that was carried out by the German
Student Association on 10th May 1933.
Roughly 20,000 books from the city’s
university library were destroyed, since
they were considered to “[undermine]
the moral and religious foundation
Bibliotek Memorial
of Germany”; this included books by
Sigmund Freud, Karl Marx, Rosa Lu-
zemburg and Erich Käestner, who was
in the audience when his books were
carried out of the library and thrown
onto the flames.
	
Today visitors can gaze through the
glass panel in Bebelplatz at the empty
shelves which have the capacity to
hold those 20,000 works of philosophy,
science and fiction which were lost.
Beside the glass panel is a plaque with
a quote from Heinrich Heine’s 1821
play Almansor, which was also thrown
onto the burning pile: “Where they burn
books, they will ultimately burn people.”
	
The plaque makes a good - if chilling -
stop for any tourist visiting the nearby
Berliner Dome, the Germany Historical
Museum or on the way to the Branden-
burg Gate.
Jessica Harris-Edwards
Bebelplatz, 10117 | (Bus) 100, 200; →
Staatsoper | 24hrs | Free

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Berlin's Best: A Summer Guide to the City's Top Sights, Food and Fun

  • 1. 1 BERLINSIDE OUT a summer guide to the city inside the guide introducing berlinsideout 2-3 The basics 4-9 history 10-24 A Brief History of Berlin........10-11 Landmarks..............................12-13 Churches.................................14-15 Palaces....................................16-17 Memorials................................18-19 Museums.................................20-24 ART Street Art............................26-31 Galleries.............................32-33 25-33 OUT & about Platzes & Strasses...........35-37 Activities...........................38-39 Lakes & Parks..................40-41 Food & DRink 34-41 42-53 Cafes........................................43-44 Street Food..............................45 Eating Vegan...........................46-47 Fast Food & Restaurants.......49-50 Sweet Eats...............................51-53 Survival Tips......................4-5 Making Berlin Buddies.....6 Getting Around..................7-8 Accomodations.................9 Shopping nightlife Markets................................55 Hidden Treasures...............56-57 54-57 Comedy & Film...........59 Drinking Holes.............60-61 Clubs............................62-63 meet the team 64-65 58-63 1 berlinsideout full book: http://www.lulu.com/content/e-book/berlinside-out/19071547
  • 2. 2 3BERLINSIDE OUT So you’ve shelled out on a summer trip to Berlin. The sun is likely shining and you have one of the world’s most vibrant cities at your disposal - a city that bubbles over with creativity and dynamism, a city where you can spend entire weekends in the same nightclub dressed in your least impressive clothes, where gigs spontaneously erupt outside S-Bahn stations and where street art and a strange curried sausage snack rule supreme. It’s all terribly exciting, but now what? BerlinsideOut is here to help. We’ll take you to the historical tourist hotspots – the Check Point Charlies and the Brandenburg Gates, but we’re really interested in filling you in on the places where the locals hang out in the hot months. Think parks, lakes, outdoor cinemas, flea markets, rooftop bars and quirky hipster cafes. In addition to providing the lowdown on the city’s museums, monuments, food, art scene, nightlife, shopping and outdoor activities, we’ll briefly chart Berlin’s history, as well as provid- ing a host of hot tips for how to navigate the city’s daunting transport network - and how to find a suitable place to rest your head. To cut your chances of injury or a stern telling off, we’ll give you a good idea of how to avoid a confrontation with an angry Berliner. There’s also a few German phrases thrown in to charm any Herr or Dame that might catch your eye, as well as helping you make platonic buddies, of course. For our journey, we’ve recruited the city’s Ampelmen: the iconic traffic-light twins you’ll see as you cross streets in East Berlin. Mr Green is our intrepid urban adventurer – a dude who’s got the bit between his teeth to seek out new sights, sounds and tastes. He’s our story’s real hero. Let’s not forget Mr Red, though – his job is to make you stop and take stock of things and to highlight important bits you might have missed. Both were brought to life by Matthew Harris-Edwards, who made sure the duo are seriously embracing the summer vibe throughout this guide. They won’t be caught without a floral shirt, shades and a beer in their hand - and neither should you. So without further ado, sit back, relax and soak up the sun as we bring you BerlinsideOut: our definitive summer guide to Germany’s buzzing capital. Tristram Colledge Berlinside Out berlin basics
  • 3. 4 5BERLINSIDE OUT Bag check Berlin can reach above 30°C in the summer, so you need to make sure you’re prepared to handle the heat wherever you may find yourself during your wanderings. Below are a few handy suggestions for things to pack before you go discoverin’... - Sun cream: even if you’re not planning on much walking, this stuff will be your staple when the sun is out - A towel: for spontaneous trips to one of Berlin’s awesome lakes or the Badeschiff - Cash: it can be very difficult to find shops which accept non-German credit or debit cards, so make sure you always have enough change on you to cover foodandanyemergencybuys(€20aday should be enough) - Passport/ID: planning on climbing the Reichstagdomeorcheckingouttheinfa- mousBerlinclubscene?Carryingaform of ID on you is always essential - Student Card: lucky you for having one of these bad boys in the first place! Most museums and galleries offer a discounted price for students, so it’s worth carrying around Key Phrases Most Germans are excellent at speak- ing English, but it’s always useful (and polite!) to have a few key phrases up your sleeve... The essentials Please - Bitte Thank you - Danke schön Sorry/excuse me - Entschuldigung How much does this cost? - Wieviel kostet das? I would like x, please - Ich möchte x, bitte I am allergic to... - Ich bin allergisch auf... Delicious! - Lecker! Without cheese, please - Ohne käse, bitte The bill, please - Die rechnung, bitte Do you speak English? - Sprechen Sie Englisch? Bye! - Tschüß! Getting to know Berliners How are you? - Vie geht’s? I’m good - Mir geht es gut I come from... - Ich komme aus... What are you up to tonight? - Si bis heute abend? Can I go clubbing with you tonight? - Kann ich heute Abend mit dir in den Club gehen? I’d love to be the reason for your sleep- less night! - Würde gerne der Grund für Deine schlaflose Nacht sein! Emergencies Help! My hair is on fire - Hilfe! Mein Haar is auf Feuer I have a tooth infection - Ich habe ein Zahn-Infektion Pharmacy - Apotheke Hospital - Krankenhaus Where is the bathroom? - Wo ist die Toilette? Do you have a spare room? - Haben Sie noch ein Zimmer frei? How to avoid be- ing shouted at by a German in five easy steps (also known as “avoiding game over”) 1) Have you noticed that pavements and roads here have a smooth sec- tion? It’s about a metre wide and snakes around the whole of the city. No? Well, now is the time to take no- tice: this is the cycle path. Reserved for cyclists. Not pedestrians. Wandering into this as you roam the city at any time of day or night is akin to being sucked into a black hole: unpredictable and potentially very messy. 2) Take your recyclables home and dispose of them in the correct manner there. I repeat: TAKE YOUR RECY- CLABLES HOME AND DISPOSE OF THEM THERE. The lack of bins around the city is not the city’s fault. Don’t litter, and definitely don’t put plastic, glass, paper or cardboard in any bin which isn’t specially marked to collect them. Yes, this means that you’ll be carrying around your rubbish all day, but it also means that you’ll be helping to save the planet. Go figure. 3) One good way of saving money at a restaurant is to order tap water (Leitungswasser). One good way of annoying the restaurant you’re eating at is to order tap water. 4) There are three golden rules when going clubbing in Germany: first, dress down (preferably in black) - dressing up will be sure to get you turned away at the door because you’re clearly trying too hard; second, don’t turn up wasted: pre-drinking here is rarely excessive, so when you arrive at 2am and can’t meet the discerning bouncer’s eye at Water- gate, she’ll just signal for you to keep walking back round to the exit; third, cameras and taking photos in clubs are prohibited.No, you won’t be able to show off the fact that you got into Berghain on socialmedia,butyes,thisdoesmeanthat anything that happens in Berghain stays in Berghain. 5) German people are comfortable with being naked, especially when water is involved.So stop trying to put your pants on under your towel (almost falling over as you do so) and embrace the feel of fresh air on your skin. Not for too long, though. That would be weird. 6) You know how in most places the red light for pedestrians really means you can cross the road if no cars are coming? Well, not in Germany. Ger- mans will quite happily stand at a red light for minutes on end, patiently waiting for nothing to cross their paths. Break this rule at your own peril. Summer survival So what’s the deal with wifi here? When it comes to wifi provision in places like hotels and restaurants, it’s taken Germany a while to catch up with other European countries - this is because German law holds all internet providers liable for the activity of its users, both legal and illegal. Providers are able to avoid this liability by asking potential users to register before they can access their network, which is a faff many people would rather avoid. On a positive note, discussions are underway as we speak, and the laws surrounding liability may be revised and relaxed later this year. You don’t need to panic just yet: if you’re in Berlin for a short stay, catching up on some crucial social media time outside of your hotel / hostel / yurt should not be too difficult. Most cafés and restaurants have wifi which you can access without any difficulty, although there may be a time limit for internet usage (generally around 30 minutes). Street wifi is also available in over 100 hotspots throughout the city - download the“Hotspotfinder”appforacomprehen- sive list. Words by Helene Burgess and Maddy Morris; graphic by Maddy Morris.
  • 4. 6 7BERLINSIDE OUT ARRIVING IN BERLIN There are two possible airports to land at when visiting Berlin: Tegel and Schönenfeld. To get from Tegel airport to the city center, use either the TXL or X9 express bus services. Schönenfeld airport offers Tram, S-Bahn and Bus services from the airport to the city center. To find out which is best for you, find your hostel or hotel’s nearest station, plan your route using the maps at the end of this guide. For the rest of your stay, Berlin offers a variety of quick and cheap methods to explore the city, as outlined below: getting around U-Bahn | Sun - Thurs: 5:30 - 00:30 hr; Fri - Saturday: 24hrs | The German underground predominantly serves the Western side of the city, with only one line running to the east. The line most useful to tourists is the U2 which runs under the entire city centre from the Zoologischer Garten to Alexanderplatz. Trams | Mon - Sun: 24hrs | The Tram and MetroTram mostly run on the eastern side of the city. These trams stop more frequently than the S-bahn, making them very useful for short local journeys. Tourists will mostly frequently come across the MetroTram in Prenzlauer Berg and Friedrichschain. S-Bahn | Sat - Thurs: 5:30 - 0:00 hr; Friday: 24hrs | The S-Bahn runs throughout Berlin, with a few lines to the suburbs. Lines which tourists will find particularly useful are the S41 and S42 which make up the ring tram, running a circle around the main inner city Berlin area. Buses | Times and routes vary | Berlin has an extensive bus network which complements the U-Bahn and Tram networks. Whilst the buses can be extremely useful and they run throughout the night, they are a lot slower and less reliable than the other transport options listed. It’s all very well traipsing around the city with Brad from the US who thinks Berlin is totally awesome, man, and starts play- ing his guitar every time he comes across a piece of the Berlin Wall, but hanging out with some (real) Berliners might just be more a little more fun. Want to spend some quality time with locals who know all of the city’s secrets, or improve your German so you can understand when that handsome Herr or foxy Fräulein is chatting you up in Berghain or Watergate? Here are a couple of good places to start... meet-ups (meetup.com) After registering your profile on the website, simply search for Berlin-based groups and take your pick: there’s a group catering for every kind of interest and hobby here, from yoga aficionados through to start-up networkers and internationals in the city looking for some fun evening activities. Many of them use English as their main language.You’ll need to join each group in order to see the details of the next planned meeting and other like-minded individuals intending to go along. Each group has a different timetable, although some organise events several times a week. Joining in means that you’ll start to feel like a local and you’ll soon have masses of mates and a bustling social calendar. tandem lessons (tandempartners.org) Finding a language partner through this site is completely free - and it also couldn’t be easier to use. All you have to do is select your mother tongue, then your ‘target’ language (which you are hoping to improve) and finally the area you’re current- ly based in: you’ll then be matched with hundreds of individuals whose mother tongue is your target language, who you can message through the site. It’s a good idea to make sure that the two of you have enough knowledge to hold a short conver- sation in at least one of the languages you speak in common before meeting - no-one likes awkward silences and baffled gesturing, after all... Other than that, meet your language partner as often as you like and practice away to your heart’s content! Who knows? Your level may progress so fast you might be able to try out some of your flirting skills around the city on actual Germans in actual German. That’s when things will get interesting: they do say the best place to learn a language is in bed... Helene Burgess making berliner buddies
  • 5. 8 9BERLINSIDE OUT Summer in Berlin is the prime time for that nice stroll you’ve been meaning to take. However, if you don’t want to sweat, get caught in the rain, or waste pre- cious time while your friends try their best to make sense of the upside down city map, Berlin’s public metro buses, Bus 100 or Bus 200 can be life savers for a low price. These two bus routes conveniently run through many of Berlin’s major historic sites. For those on a limited budget or those who want to explore the city in their own time, these are ideal options. Of course, these buses are known to just about every other tourist in town, so you need to be swift in grabbing a good seat on the top deck! Bus100inparticularcangetextremely crowded,especiallyduringpeakhours and at stops located at top attractions such as the Reichstag. If you are looking for a more compre- hensive Berlin tour, you should try and persuade a local along too. Whilesometelloffriendlybuscaptains keen to entertain with running com- mentary,othersshouldbepreparedfor a more lackluster ride. Ruonan Ma 100/200 Metro Bus Tour Which Ticket to Buy? Tickets for public transport can be bought at both airports. Berlin is divid- ed into three ticketing zones (A, B and C), but as the vast majority of attrac- tions are located within zones A and B, it is cheapest to buy a ticket for the AB zone and buy singles to zone C as and when you need them. Daily ticket: Ideal for short stays, a dai- ly ticket costs 7€ per day for zone AB. Weekly ticket: For stays of seven or more days, this ticket costs 30€ for zones AB. Berlin WelcomeCard and Berlin City- TourCard: Prices start from 19.50€ for 48 hours. This includes discounts to over 200 attractions. It is worth check- ing what you wish to see first, as many attractions are free. Any additional tickets required can be bought at ticket machines located at every U-Bahn and S-Bahn station and on each Tram and MetroTram. Before you can use your ticket, it must be validated. This is done by placing the ticket into the yellow ticket stamper machines located in each U-Bahn and S-Bahn station and on the Tram and MetroTram. Cycling Cycling in Berlin is extremely popular and is a great way to see the sights, especially those further out of the city centre. Berlin’s parks, green spac- es and lakes are best experienced by bike. Rental places are common throughout the city with prices start- ing around 10€ a day. Rent A Bike 44 (Mahlower Str. 9) is the lowest rental place at just 4€ for the whole day. Top Tips - Remember to press the stop button on the tram when it is your stop, espe- cially late at night - Download the BVG app free to make journey planning easy - Station names aren’t always easy to spot from the train - make sure you pay attention to the stop announcer - Cycle lanes are often on the pave- ment at tram stops, watch out for cyclists - A lack of barriers does not mean that you don’t have to pay! Plain clothes ticket officers frequently get on trains and will issue large fines if you are caught without a ticket Grace Burke and Abgina Sohail accomodation Finding somewhere to stay which suits you is just as important as deciding what to fill your days with. Berlin offers a wonderful variety of options for young people. Whether you are searching for the luxurious and no expenses spared getaway, or the shoe string budget holiday, Berlin will have the perfect place for you. € = 30€ and under €€ = 30 – 60€ €€€ = 60€ and over. Hostels: Hostels are an absolutely great way of immersing yourself in the spirit of explor- ing a city. Cheap and (usually) of a high standard,hostelsinBerlinareconvenient and reliable, giving you more than your money’s worth. Here are our top three recommended hostels: Wombat’s Berlin: Great to meet other travellers; own bar; hostel run events. Alte Schönhauserstr | €. | wom- bats-hostels.com/berlin/ PLUS Hostel: All you can eat breakfast buffet; free Wifi. Warschauer Platz. | € | plushostels. com/plusberlin Meininger Hostel Central Station: Perfect central location; best hostel for a short stay. Ella - Trebe - Straße 9, | €€€ | meininger-hotels.com/en/hotels/berlin/ central-station/ Hotels: Berlin has become the land of boutique hotels, which aim to be smaller and more intimate establishments than big company chains. A boutique hotel is a great way to still meet fellow travel- lers, but tend to be a better way than hostels to meet locals. Tryp by Wyndham Berlin City East: Buffet breakfast included in price; free wifi. Ruschestraße 45 | €€ | Book via triva- go.com for best deal Michelberger Hotel: Breakfast includ- ed; access to popular city hotel bar; onsite activities Warschauer Str. 39 | €€€ | michel- bergerhotel.com/en/ The Circus Hotel: All ensuite rooms; own local popular bar; garden court- yard for BBQs 1 Rosenthaler Strasse | €€ | circus-ber- lin.de airbnb Airbnb offers you the chance to feel what it is like to live in Berlin rather than simply visit it. Often you will have the apartment to yourself, but occa- sionally travellers will live with the host who will show guests the city through native eyes. couchsurfing This option is great for those who are simply passing through Berlin and need a place to stay for a maximum of two nights. The site hooks visitors up with hosts who have a spare bed or their sofa to offer weary travellers for free. Words by Jessica Harris-Edwards and Molly Wyatt; graphic by Maddy Morris.
  • 6. 10 11BERLINSIDE OUT Berlin is found- ed in today’s Nikolaiviertei quarter.The area becomes part of the Margraviate of Brandenburg, a principality of the Holy Roman Empire, under the rule of Albert the Bear in 1157. As the town grows, Berlin merges with the neigh- bouring town of Cölln (now Muse- um Island) and is given its own coat of arms - a bear - by Albert in 1432. 1415 Frederick I be- comes the Elector of Margraviate of Brandenburg. He is part of the Ho- henzollern family who rule Berlin, the Kingdom of Prussia, and the Empire of Germa- ny up until 1918. 12th century Frederick William takes over as the Elector of Bradneburg and begins promoting immigration and religious tolerance, which helps to expand and grow Berlin’s population. Jewish families from Austria and refugees from Bohemia, Poland, and Salzburg arrive in Berlin. 1640 Elector Frederick III be- comes the king of Prussia, makes Berlin the capital, and starts construction of the Charlottenberg Palace. (Crown) 1701 Prussian troops help defeat Napo- leon in the Battle of Waterloo and reclaim the Quadriga. Berliners attempt to overthrow the Hohenzollern family, but the revolution is crushed.This is just one of many attempt- ed revolutions across Eu- rope following the success of the French Revolution. 1848 1815 Ottoman Von Bismarck is appointed minister president of Prussia. He begins a series of military campaigns with the aim of unifying the Germanic states. Bismarck reclaims old German lands from Denmark, Austria, and France. The Reichstag is built to handle municipal government operations. WWI begins. 1914 The German Empire is established after a victory over France, and Germany becomes the most power- ful European nation. 1871 1884 1862 End of World War I:The Hohenzollern family are overthrown and the Weimar Republic begins. The Treaty of Versailles forces Germany to pay high reparations, leading the nation to struggle economically. Communist Party of Ger- many attempts a revolu- tion. Communist leaders Rosa Luxenburg and Karl Liebknecht are executed. 1919 1918 Wolfgang Kapp, founder of the German Fatherland Party, overthrows the Weimar Republic but is forced to give back power after a general strike. 1920 Wall Street Crash and the GreatDepression:Berliners burn their cash for fires as it is cheaper than buying firewood. 1929 Hitler is elected Chan- cellor of Germany and suspends the constitution after left-wing protestors set fire to the Reichstag. Germany invades Poland;Beginning of World War II. Hitler commits suicide in the Führerbunker underneath the Reich Chancellery. Berlin is captured days later. Germany, and Berlin, are split into four sectors: the American, British, French, and Soviet.The split be- tween East and West Berlin begins. Kristallnacht - the Night of Shattered Glass. Jewish communities are attacked and Jews imprisoned. Jews sent to concentration camps. Only 1,200 Jews survive the Holocaust. 1933 1943 1939 1945 1938 1989 Berlin Wall is knocked down. Residents of East Berlin seek refuge in West from harsh conditions, leading to a huge population loss for the eastern half of the city. Berlin Wall is erect- ed. East Berlin- ers are no longer allowed to travel into West Berlin and ac- cess from the West is restricted. Berlin becomes the capital of Germany. 1961 1991 1945-1960 A brief history of Berlin Word by Jessica Harris-Edwards and Amanda Hoover; graphics by Maddy Morris.
  • 7. 12 13BERLINSIDE OUT Pariser Platz | (Bus) 100, 200 to Unter den Linden; (U) Brandenburg Tor | 24 hr | Free It is always satisfying to visit another country who shares England’s love of humiliating the French. Germany has far outdone the English in reminding them of their crushing de- feat in 1815 with the neoclassical Bran- denburg Gate and Pariser Platz, both designed in the late 18th century by Carl Gotthard Laudhans. Pariser Platz, known previously as “The Square”, gained its name after Prussian troops seized Paris from Napoleon in 1814. The goddess who now sits on top of the Gate and glares at the French embassy was also changed to Victoria, goddess of Victory, after Napoleon’s defeat. Brandenburg Gate A visit to the Brandenburg Gate is not just about basking in the warm fuzzy feelings that come with laughing at the French: Hotel Albion, where Michael Jackson dangled his baby over the balcony, sits next to the square; bullet holes from WW2 are visible in the Gate itself; and it’s a fantastic point to start any tour of Berlin as the Reichstag, Victory Tower, and Holocaust Memorial are all within easy walking distance. If you don’t fancy the walking tours provided by Sandemans, then you can always opt to take a horse and car- riage, or the travelling bar which leaves from the square, around the city. Jessica Harris-Edwards Großer Stern 1 | (Bus) 100, 106, 187 to Brandenburg Gate | Mon-Fri 9-18:30hr; Sat-Sun 9:30–19hr |€3 adult, €2.50 student Victory Column Siegessäule Sitting in the heart of the Tiergarten, the Siegessäule (Victory Column) provides a spectacular reminder of Germany’s imperial past.The column is made up of three pillars representing German victories in the reunification wars, and a fourth added by the Nazis in anticipation of victory in the Second World War. It provides a commanding view over the city of Berlin for Viktoria, the bronze statue standing imposingly on top. To share Viktoria’s panorama view of Berlin, take on the challenge and climb the 285 claustrophobic steps to reach the observation deck at the top of the column. Although the climb is tiring, there are regular seats to take a break, and the breath-taking views from the top encompassing the Reichtag, TV Tower, Tiergarten and distant Berlin suburbs are well worth it.There’s also another observation deck near the bottom of the tower which, whilst it does not offer spectacular views, is still worth visiting to admire the rich materi- als used in the towers construction. At the bottom of the column is a small museum which briefly outlines its his- tory. Although it is interesting, it is not a crucial stop and can be skipped if short on time. Grace Burke spectacular view. Before starting the slow walk up the dome’s winding ramp, be sure to grab an earpiece. As if by magic, after just a couple of steps on the path, a German gentleman begins whispering sweet nothings in your ear, giving you the lowdown on the history and symbolism of both the old and new components of the building. The au- dioguide is incredibly informative and insightful, pointing out important land- marks as you circle around the ramp - and, amazingly, it involves absolutely no button pushing. The important message for the building both physically and metaphorically is transparency, and by glancing down the magnificent whirlpool/tornado style glass centrepiece, you’ll catch a glimpse of the bright blue seats of the chamber below. If you’re into your German politics, make sure to book a visit on a Wednesday, Thursday or Friday to catch a glimpse of Angela and the gang in full swing. After coming down the ramp there’s a photographic display to check out, showing iconic images of the building over the years. And just to entice you further – all of this is FREE! Book up now and dome’t miss out. Tristram Colledge If there’s one absolutely essential ac- tivity for your time in Berlin, it’s to take a trip to the Reichstag. A melting pot of old and new architecture, the German parliament (Bundestag) and its dome offer a stunning panorama over the city - and one of the slickest audio guides you’ll ever experience. But first things first: you ain’t going anywhere if you don’t book your visit in advance. Check out the Bundestag website well before your visit and make a request by entering the names and DOBs of everyone in your party.You can either book a guided tour (these are like gold-dust, so booking a few months in advance is recommended) or a simple visit to the roof terrace and dome, which includes the aforemen- tioned daddy of all audio guides.Both types of tour start with a security and ID check at the visitors’ entrance, so make sure you’re carrying a passport or driving licence (not your old student ID which is being held together with sellotape). Then it’s up to the roof  to grab a quick couple of snaps of the The Reichstag The dome is open until midnight so make use of those spectacular twilight hours by booking a trip late in the day. Checkpoint Charlie Once the location of a tense stand-off between American and Soviet tanks which nearly kick-started WW3, Check- point Charlie is now the site of Berlin’s number one tourist battleground. Get within a short distance of the famous Cold War crossing point and you’ll start to see and hear the hordes amassing. Tour guides are forced to shout above the chaos of traffic as their listeners huddle together on the cramped pave- ments. Amidst the madness, Eastern European actors dressed in US army outfits are on hand for a photo - for about the cost of a coffee that is. If you try and take a pic without their permis- sion, be prepared for them to get sud- denly get very bashful and cover their faces. Bring a passport and some extra cash if you want to add to the authen- ticity by buying some Checkpoint Char- lie stamps too. For a further few Euros, hit up one of the numerous souvenir shops/tourist traps to buy a postcard complete with a ‘fragment’ of the wall. For more history (there’s plenty of it), pop into the nearby Checkpoint Charlie Museum, but be prepared to negotiate a mass of hard-to-tackle wall texts. Perhaps a better bet is The Wall Pan- orama – an emotive exhibit featuring a gigantic impression of Berlin during the East/West days by artist Yadegar Asisi. And after you’ve had your fill, turn back into the crowds, grab an overpriced bev- erage from an American chain and, wait for it… check Charlie off your list. Tristram Colledge Friedrichstraße | (U) Stadtmitte | 24hr; Checkpoint Charlie Museum Mon-Sun 9-22hr; The Wall Panorama Mon-Sun 10-18 hr | Free, €5-25 for additional museums PlatzderRepublik|(U)Bundestag|Mon- Sun 8-24 hr | Free
  • 8. 14 15BERLINSIDE OUT For a breathtaking, panoramic view of the city from 50m off the ground, a journey through Berlin’s largest church is well worth the 267 steps. The Berlin Cathedral, known for its striking architecture and dome gallery, is one of Berlin’s most recognizable landmarks. Completed in 1905, the ca- thedral has a rich history as one of the few architectural remnants to survive World War II. Composed of intricate pillars, arch- ways, statues, and murals trimmed in gold, the sanctuary is an impressive space full of details to explore. Stand- ing in the center and looking up, the complex designs beneath the dome are illuminated by the natural light shining from the ceiling’s windows. A walk downstairs and through the crypt leads to the resting place of the Hohenzollen family, and the climb to the top includes places to stop and see various models of the cathedral while also reading about its unusual design. Climbing to the top also provides the perfect spot to snap some photos of the landscape and see sights from a new perspective. This excursion combines the chance to take in some of Berlin’s history with stellar views and the chance to relax in the quiet sanctu- ary of a church. Amanda Hoover For those looking to take a breather from a fast-paced itinerary, St Hedwig’s Cathedral is perfect. This is not the best place for a pint or a picnic, but the regular ethereal music presents a welcome break from the hus- tle and bustle outside. Expect to emerge with a clear mind, free from any last vestiges of travel clutter. Not a music-lover? Pay a solemn visit to the grave of Bernard Lichtenberg, leader of the Catholic resistance during WWII. Be prepared to be pleasantly surprised by the building’s modern 1960s interior, despite its classic 18th-century exterior. With its geometric-patterned windows and domed cupola, St Hedwig’s Cathe- dral is definitely one of the alternative st. hedwig’s cathedrale Hinter der Katholischen Kirche 3 | (U) Französische Straße ; (Bus) 100/200 to Staatsoper | Mon - Sat 10-17hr; Sun 13-17hr | Free Gendarmenmarkt A quaint little square, just right for those 18th century architecture enthu- siasts. The two churches (Französi- cher Dom and Deutscher Dom) and the concert hall make up the square, with the grandiose structures of all three enough to make you feel small. In fact, you can climb the tower in the Französicher Dom for some stunning views of Berlin’s historic skyline for three euros - if you can stomach the 250 steps! Though the winter months provide a better time to visit with the Christmas market, the historic square is still worth your time and attention. It’s even worth Gendarmenmarkt | (U) Hausvogteiplatz, Stadtmitte | Deutscher Dom: Mon-Sat 9-20hr; Sun 12-20hr | Adults: 7€, Students: 5€ must-sees in the city, not to be judged by its religious cover. Ruonan Ma passing through just to admire the area if pressed for time. There are also guided tours and exhibitions available if you do happen to have the time. If history isn’t quite your cup of tea, then treat yourself to an actual cup of tea, coffee, or even nice meal at any of the nearby cafes and restaurants.Cheaper alternatives are also available from food stands in the square. If you just fancy a drink, then there are plenty of beer gardens and pubs too. Liam Govey Am Lustgarten | (Bus) 200; → Lustgar- ten | Mon-Sat: 9-20hr; Sun: 12-20hr | Adults: €7; Students: €5 Berliner dom Still visibly bearing its war scars from 1943, when the church was almost entirely destroyed by an allied bombing offensive, the Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächt- nis Kirche (Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church), in the heart of West Berlin, is a very visual symbol of the extent of the damage to Berlin during the Sec- ond World War. Whilst a new church has been built around the ruins of the original, the main attraction at this site is still the original building, which has been preserved in its ruined state. Breitscheidplatz | (U+S) Zoologisches Garten; (U) Kufüstenstraße | Mon-Fri 10-18hr; Sat 10-17.30;hr Sun 12- 17.30hr | Free Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church Only the small ground floor area is ac- cessible, playing host to an exhibition on the building’s history, from its con- ception to destruction and subsequent rebuilding. Of particular interest is the parish’s link to Nazi resistance and the models of the church before and after the bombing raid, highlighting the level of destruction. Make sure you look up, too, as the original ornately decorated ceiling is still largely intact. After visiting the original building, it’s still briefly worth visiting the new church to check out the stunning effect of the blue glass tiles which make up its walls. These create an unexpectedly calming oasis within the hustle and bustle of the centre of Berlin, provid- ing a striking modern contrast to the original building. Grace Burke
  • 9. 16 17BERLINSIDE OUT The Charlottenberg Palace is the gateway to a sweeping royal garden commissioned by 18th century royals Sophie Charlotte and Fredrich III. Now opened to the public, the sprawl- ing fields of green hold trails for walk- ing, biking, and running beneath the shady canopy of trees on sunny spring and summer days. Nestled along the paths of various trails and moats are several historic buildings. Those walking the trails can stop to explore mausoleum where the Hohen- zollern family, a former dynasty of royals of the German Empire, were laid to rest or take in the Belvedere, a small garden palacebuiltbyKingFrederickWilliamIIof Prussia in the late 18th century. Whatusedtoserveasaprivateretreatfor royals now plays host to Berlin’s federal porcelain collection. Those looking to retreat from the bustle of the city streets can take shelter under the shade of trees along the moats and ponds, which winds their way between the palace, gardens, and other monu- ments. Schloss Charlottenberg Gardens As the old saying goes, the English invented football whilst the rest of the world got better at it. Nowhere is this more apparent than with the current world champion, Germany, who occa- sionally plays home matches at this his- toric stadium in West Berlin. The stadium currently hosts the perennial‘yo-yo’team of Germany’s top two divisions, Hertha Berlin. Initially built for the 1936 Olympics by Werner March, some of the greatest mo- ments in sporting history have occurred within. From Jesse Owens’s historic gold medal win in front of Adolf Hitler, right through to that Zinedine Zidane head- butt in the 2006 World Cup final, the stadium has seen it all. There is little around the stadium, apart from the training ground, a few beer and food stands and the stadium for Hertha Berlin’s reserve side. However, guided tours are available on event-free days at 11€, though only in German. Despite this, the tour takes you around some of the most historic areas in sport. More recently, the stadium hosted the 2015 Champions League final between Juventus and Barcelona, a game that saw Barcelona run out deserved 3-1 winners. With the guided tour, you can visit the very room in which the pre-final press conferences were held. As well as guided tours, you can also pop to the Hertha Berlin club shop – pro- moting the city’s top team – and pick yourself up a memento. There are classic shirts, footballs, and trinkets available. If you feel like experiencing a Hertha home game, then the football season starts in August and stretches through to May. With the Bundesliga producing some of the world’s top talent in football, there’s bound to be a game worth seeing. Liam Govey Olympic Stadium Closer to the palace grounds, there’s a small but meticulous garden of hedges, roses, and various statues overlooking thewater.Thepalace,whichisthelargest inBerlin,servesastheidealbackdropfor asunnyafternoonexploringthegardens. Amanda Hoover Spandauer Damm | (S) Westend | Tues- Sun 10-18hr | Free Sanssouci Park Just outside of the energetic city of Berlin lays the tranquil gem Sanssouci Park, which offers a perfect escape for anyone wanting to get away from the usual hustle and bustle of city life. Indeed, the acres of gardens, fountains and decadent palaces were intend- ed to be used as a retreat from royal duties by Frederick II, when he created them in 1745. Be transported back in time by strolling along the wide boule- vards, sitting amongst the wild flowers, or enjoying a picnic on one of the many sculpted lawns, as Prussian Empress- es and Emperors once did. The park is home to over six palaces, temples, and a gallery. Start with the gardens of Charlottenburg Schloss, done in the style of a Grecian vine- yard, before proceeding forwards in time to the quaint roman bath house just around the corner with its still functioning water features. The Chinese House, carved from marble and adorned with gold statues, is also worthy of a visit: it is an architectural wonder and leaves you in easy walking distance of all the park’s palaces. The tickets for each palace include an audio guide which will explain the unique character, history and visitors to each royal abode. Three different versions of the guide help you tailor your experience: the in-depth version, perfect for the history buff, provides great information on the occupants, furniture and architecture; the brief overview, for those in a rush; and the children’s guide, which is fun to listen to for people of all ages. There is simply too much to do here in one day to experience the park in the carefree manner the Hohenzollern’s intended it for. However, with the di- versity of palaces and all those perfect picnic spots just waiting to be enjoyed, it will not be hard to find time to go back to indulge in your royal fantasies. Jessica Harris-Edwards Zur Historischen Mühle 1, Potsdam | (S) Potsdam Hauptbahnhof | Tues-Sun 10-18hr | 9 - 15€ Olympischer Platz 3 | (S) Olympias- tadion | Mon-Sun 9-19hr | 7-11€
  • 10. 18 19BERLINSIDE OUT A sudden turn in the winding forest paths of Treptower Park will reveal the dramatic Soviet War Memorial. Built on top of the graves of over 7,000 Red Army soldiers who fought in the Battle of Berlin, the brutal granite statues and sculptured lawns are a heart-breaking tribute to those lost. This beautiful and emotional physical reminder of just what was lost during the Second World War was created by a team of archi- tects, engineers and artists, including the famous Russian sculptor Yevgeny Vuchetich. Soviet War Memorial The memorial consists of several stat- ues of the men who died, gardens with well-kept flowers, and plaques contain- ing the speech Stalin made after the war to praise the soldiers now buried here. The most domineering aspect of the memorial is the 12m tall statue of Vasily Chuikov who supposedly risked his life to save a German child who had been abandoned during the Battle of Berlin. During the summer the area is a strange and unsettling place to visit. Children clamber and play over the bowed heads of the statues, whilst Russian tourists pray and mourn the dead by laying fresh flowers. The juxtaposition of vibrant life against the omnipresence of death leaves one feeling unsettled long after leaving this impressive memorial. Jessica Harris-Edwards The memorial is a fascinating snapshot of German history, taking into account the wall’s erection right through to its fall. Throughout the outdoor exhibition are stories of escaping East Germans, brutal accounts of those injured or killed during the division, and excerpts from the surrounding control towers. Audio descriptions are available in both English and German. Though only a relatively young nation, Germany’s history is plentiful, if bleak. Located on Bernauer Straße, and beginning just outside of Nordbahnhoff station, the memorial spans 1.4 kilo- metres. It’s the perfect place to walk on a warm midsummer’s day, with a café next to the Visitor Centre if you need The Berlin Wall Memorial refreshments. Even if you don’t neces- sarily fancy anything educational, you can just sit and enjoy the weather in this uniquely historical location. Should the heavens open, take shelter inside the Visitor Centre just across the road. On the ground floor you’ll find tales of the divided city, with stories of repression and revolution on the first floor. On top of the building, you’ll get some absolutely stunning views of this historically fascinating street, as well as the familiar Alexanderplatz skyline that you’ll be familiar with by the end of your stay. Liam Govey Bernauer Straße | (S) Nordbahnhoff; (M) Bernauer Straße | Visitors Centre Tues-Sun 10-18hr | Free Puschkinallee | (S) Treptower Park | 24hrs | Free You could be forgiven for mistaking this site for an art installation, instead of the strikingly radical memorial that it is. On approach from the west, children can regularly be seen playing amongst the concrete blocks (called stelae) and locals and tourists alike will often perch on them, pausing on their way to reach another part of the city. The occasional bouquet of flowers lain in plain sight and security guards patrolling the edges of the stelae grid serve as a quiet sign that this is a solemn place of meditation, intended to remind people of the horrors of the Holocaust. Interpretations of the grid’s symbolic meaning are almost as diverse as the points from which one can view it: the memorial is said to echo Prague’s Old Jewish Cemetery, and it has been suggested that the 2711 stelae each represent the different Jewish com- munities persecuted under Nazi rule. However, one thing is for sure; enter- ing the grid will make you feel uneasy, and perhaps even claustrophobic, as you experience the shifting shadows and perspectives caused by the sur- prisingly uneven, wave-like ground. Designed by Peter Eisenmann, a New York-based architect, the memorial was opened in 2005, following some amount of controversy surrounding the company involved in producing the stelae.The un- derground information centre, accessed from the eastern corner of the memo- rial, is worth a visit as it gives visitors a touching insight into the plight of the six million Jews who were oppressed, victi- mised and murdered during the second world war. This includes Sabina Haber- HOlocaust Memorial man, a holocaust survivor who spoke at the memorial’s inauguration, and whose family’s history is covered in the Room of Families. Expect to spend two full hours in the information centre if you rent an audio guide. Helene Burgess Cora-Berliner-Straße 1 | (S) + (U) Brandenburger Tor | Field of Stelae 24/7; Information Centre - Tues-Sun: 10hr-20hr | Free Book lovers will find themselves re- flectively clutching their prized tomes closer to their chests after visiting the Bibliotek Memorial. Constructed by Italian architect Micha Ullman in 1995, the eerie underground library was inaugurated to mark the book burning that was carried out by the German Student Association on 10th May 1933. Roughly 20,000 books from the city’s university library were destroyed, since they were considered to “[undermine] the moral and religious foundation Bibliotek Memorial of Germany”; this included books by Sigmund Freud, Karl Marx, Rosa Lu- zemburg and Erich Käestner, who was in the audience when his books were carried out of the library and thrown onto the flames. Today visitors can gaze through the glass panel in Bebelplatz at the empty shelves which have the capacity to hold those 20,000 works of philosophy, science and fiction which were lost. Beside the glass panel is a plaque with a quote from Heinrich Heine’s 1821 play Almansor, which was also thrown onto the burning pile: “Where they burn books, they will ultimately burn people.” The plaque makes a good - if chilling - stop for any tourist visiting the nearby Berliner Dome, the Germany Historical Museum or on the way to the Branden- burg Gate. Jessica Harris-Edwards Bebelplatz, 10117 | (Bus) 100, 200; → Staatsoper | 24hrs | Free