1. Devon Exlpore
WORDS: Rowena Marella-Daw
To quiet the mind and feed the soul, look
no further than the English countryside
H E A V E N L Y D E V O N

2. Devon Exlpore
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E
ngland’s true character and heritage lies not only
in its iconic cities, but in its pastoral landscapes,
and nowhere is this typified more than in Devon,
in the southwest of the country. Dramatic
coastlines, pristine sandy beaches and fairytale villages –
not to mention generous helpings of Devon cream, fudge,
locally brewed ales and fresh seafood – make this corner of
Britain too good to miss.
Getting there is part of the thrill, and the two-and-a-half-
hour rail journey from Paddington Station on a First Class
coach is a blissfully stress-free experience that went all too
quickly, but it did enable my husband and I to relax while
witnessing the gorgeous scenery along the way.
The city of Exeter is a good starting point from which to
explore the region, and renting a 4x4 meant we could access
remote villages and navigate the narrow lanes that wind, dip
and rise through the rolling countryside. We were blessed on
this visit with mild weather and a mix of sunshine, showers
and mist, creating a mystical tableau.
Devon’s geodiversity is highlighted by government
nominated ‘Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty’ including
a UNESCO biosphere, the Jurassic Coast (a World Heritage
Site), and two national parks, Exmoor and Dartmoor. The
whole county is a fine jewel in England’s crown.
North Devon is home to long stretches of beach-side towns
such as Saunton Sands, as well as Woolacombe, where surfing
The golden beaches
of Saunton Sands
Picturesque Clovelly sits
400 feet above the quay
Photos:GettyImages

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Devon Indulge
competitions are held each year, and pretty fishing villages
like Clovelly, which stands on a cliff 400 feet above a quay
that dates back to the 14th century, are replete with tales
of pirates and smugglers.
Down in South Devon, the coastline has a different
appeal. Nicknamed the ‘English Riviera’ for its palm trees
and microclimate, this 35-kilometre stretch of coast is home
to the quaint towns of Torquay, Paignton and Brixham,
where remnants of Victorian heritage are most evident
in the architecture and steam trains chugging through
the countryside. One of the many highlights for visitors is
Greenway, the holiday home of world-renowned crime and
mystery writer Agatha Christie.
With so much to see and do in Devon, it’s hard to choose
a favourite spot, but for me it would have to be Dartmoor
National Park. One moment you’re driving through lush
undulating hills, then suddenly you are in the midst of
ancient moorlands, wild and bleak. Its haunting beauty can be
attributed to the heathland covered in moss, bilberry, heather
and purple moor grass. Here, wild ponies reign supreme,
toughened by winter’s harsh temperatures. They roam freely,
sharing the land with grazing cows and sheep. There is an
eerie silence to the place, disturbed only by the howling wind.
Dartmoor is believed to have the largest number of
archaeological remains in Europe thanks to its collection
of stone circles, menhirs (standing stones), stone crosses and
ancient villages, and many visitors will recognise the familiar
images of its ancient granite outcrops, known as tors.
A short drive from the town of Two Bridges, in the heart
of the moorlands, we caught sight of Combestone Tor’s twin
peaks. Against mighty gusts of wind and hovering rain clouds,
we traipsed over boulders and rocks to reach the summit for
an overwhelming panorama of the valley and peaks as far as
the eye could see.
Each tor has its own distinct shape, some associated
with tales of ghostly sightings and legends. Myth has it that
Hound Tor was a pack of dogs that some angry witches
turned into stone. The tor is also said to have inspired Sir
Arthur Conan Doyle’s Sherlock Holmes novel, The Hound
of the Baskervilles. More recently, Dartmoor was the idyllic
setting for War Horse, Spielberg’s poignant film adaptation of
Michael Morpurgo’s 1982 children’s novel.
Situated in the very heart of Devon, Dartmoor has its own
unique character, a place you could never tire of exploring.
Bovey Castle is set within
111 hectares of Dartmoor
National Park’s moorlands
“Dramatic coastlines, pristine
sandy beaches and fairytale
villages – not to mention
generous helpings of Devon
cream, fudge, locally brewed
ales and fresh seafood –
make this corner of Britain
too good to miss”

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Explore Devon
DEVON’S FINEST RETREATS
After an invigorating walk around the moors, coming home to
the comfort and luxury of Bovey Castle is the best way to
experience Devon in style. This splendid country manor
is tucked within a 111-hectare estate to the north-east of
Dartmoor National Park. Its oak-panelled corridors lead to
a striking Jacobean-style staircase and the minstrel’s gallery,
overlooking the magnificent Cathedral Room.
At The Edwardian Grill, head chef Marc Hardiman’s
Beef Menu focuses on a nose-to-tail dining concept and
features locally-sourced ingredients including Dartmoor
beef and artisan cheeses. After a satisfying dinner, retire to
the Cathedral Room for tea or after-dinner drinks. Lit only
by candlelight and the flickering flames of an open fire, the
atmosphere becomes magical and, when the full moon
shines through tall windows, mysterious.
The best views are from the elegant, spacious suites
overlooking the 18-hole championship golf course and the
moors beyond. From the hotel’s grounds, take the wooded
footpath running alongside a stream to the tiny village
of North Bovey, with its ancient church and graveyard,
an iconic red phone box in the village green, and the
rustic Ring of Bells pub.
On the eastern edge of Devon lies Combe House, a
Grade I Elizabethan building set within a 1,416-hectare
estate in Gittisham, a village dating back to the Bronze
Age. Driving through a lane leading to the manor, the
Arabian horses preside over
the grounds at Combe House
first thing visitors encounter is the sight of Arabian
horses cantering on the grounds. The building’s
mullioned windows, ivy-clad stone walls and gables are
just the icing on the cake. Inside, the eyes are drawn
to the Great Hall’s commanding fireplace and wood-
panelled gallery showcasing ancestral portraits.
With only 15 individually styled en suite bedrooms,
this place feels like a private retreat. The signature suite,
Tommy Wax, was named after a local candle maker – the
last person to be hung for poaching on the eponymous hill,
which can be seen from the windows. The Linen Suite is a
converted Victorian laundry, where the large copper wash
tub was specially made in India. Another romantic option
is the secluded Combe Thatch Cottage, with its own private
garden located next to a babbling brook.
Locals come here to enjoy British cuisine with a modern
twist, made from ingredients that have been hand-picked from
the kitchen garden. Combe House cure their own meats and
smoke their own salmon and sea trout on the premises, too.
Service is impeccable, and each staff member brings their own
personal touches, making guests feel truly at home.
The whole of Devon is breathtaking to look at. But when
you feel the whipping winds of its bleak moors, run across
its vast deserted beaches and meander through its poetic,
undulating landscapes, that’s when you really understand
its ethereal beauty. Each visit is a revelation, one that leaves
you feeling even more peaceful than the last. n
Bovey Castle
Tel: +44 8444 740 077
www.boveycastle.com
Combe House
Tel: +44 1404 540 400
www.combehousedevon.com
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