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Knit fabric defects
FP Technology
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 1
Skewing
 Skewing or Bias : Line or design
running at slight angle across the cloth.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 2
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 3
Bowing or Twisting
 A line/design curve across the fabric .
 Reason : Faulty take up mechanism on
knitting machine
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 4
Knots in knit fabric:
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 5
Needle line
 Cause: due to defective needle, dirty needle
slot, improper lubrication of needle, needle
too tight or loose or bent needle
 Remedies: replacing defective needle,
remove the fibers in tricks, remove bent
needle, checking the needle sequence
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 6
Hole
CAUSE REMEDIES
Due To Tight Knot Ensure uniform tension
Needle break due to slub Rate of yarn feed should be strictly
regulated
Due to high tension of yarn Eyelets, yarn guides, should not have
any fibres, fluff & wax etc
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 7
Oil Mark
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 8
Cause Remedy
Due to improper lubrication use oil as
lubricant
Fibres accumulated in needle tricks
Fibre and fluff accumulated in the
needle trick, which remain soaked
with oil
Remove all the needles and sinker of
machine and clean it.
Cleaning the grooves of cylinder and
dial of machine.
Slub ( Thick and thin place)
Cause Remedy
Uneven tension, uneven course, Mix
count, lot mix in blow room
Prevent count or lot mixing, maintain
uniform yarn tension
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 9
Ladder ( Fabric Run )
 A run or ladder indicates a row
of dropped stitches in the wale.
 Reason: Yarn carrier are not
set properly.
 Stitch has been formed loosely
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 10
Ladder :Wales collapse in straight line
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 11
Barre / Shade bar
 A barre effect has the appearance of a stripe
with shaded edge .
 It is horizontal in weft knit fabric & vertical in
warp knit fabric.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 12
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 13
Reason of barre defect
 Due to Yarn / Due to machine
 Yarn related cause : Count variation, twist
variation, wrong yarn (size, color, blend ,twist
direction ) ,mixed yarn lots ,uneven oiling or
waxing ,improper conditioning .
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 14
Reason of barre
 Machine related cause :
 Different stich length ,Improper tension
 Faulty dial & cylinder settings
 Improper threading
 Variation in take down or spreader system
 Machine vibration
 Dirt ,lint or yarn fragments in tricks ,needles
,sinkers or in cam system.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 15
 Variation in oil content
 Worn needles ,which generally produce
length direction streaks
 Uneven cylinder height
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 16
Recommendation to minimize barre`
 Knit an entire dyeing lot in same knit
machine.
 Same spinning lot for entire fabric.
 Determine from quality control for same
quality of y.arn for entire lot
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 17
Fly yarn contamination
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 18
Fabric weight out of tolerance
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 19
Dye Mark
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 20
Stain ( excessive oil or dirt )
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 21
Pin marks : poorly adjusted Stenter pin
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 22
Spirality
 This is very common problem in single jersey
fabric.
 It is deformation of knit fabric due to yarn
twisting so that the vertical lines or wales are
no longer at right angle to horizontal lines
 It does not appear in rib or interlock fabrics.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 23
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 24
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 25
Problems due to Spirality
 In knitted garments the practical problem arise due to
spirallty.
 Shifting of seams, Mismatching, Patterning and sewing
difficulties
 These problem are often corrected by finishing steps
such as resin treatment,heat & steam ,so the wale line
are perpendicular to course line.
 Such setting are not stable ,and after repeated washing
cycle it normally reoccurs.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 26
Spirality
 It is caused by “ Unbalanced yarn”.
 Only option is to use replacement yarn
having balanced twist.(in finishing stage we
alleviate the problem but not permanently ).
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 27
 Calculation
 Percentage change in spirality can be
represented as follows.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 28
Facing up
 It can be defined as unwanted surface fiber
leading to change in the appearance of the
garment.
 Knit fabric made from woolen yarns generally
are finished to create fuzzy / hairy surface and
during wear/abrasion the reverse effect is
sometime an issue.
 It can occur all over garment or in localized area.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 29
Facing up
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 30
Facing up
 Reason : gradual withdrawal of fibers from
surface layer of yarns (migration) and can in
many cases lead to pilling.
 Facing up tend to occur abrasion resistance are
such as during tumble drying.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 31
Facing up
 The tendency to facing up depends upon several factor
,very similar with pilling
 Fiber length : short / broken fiber migrate easily.
 Fiber diameter: finer fiber tends to be shorter & thus
more likely to migrate.
 Yarn twist : low/irregular twist perform migration
 Cover factor: high density increase inter fiber friction
 Fabric softener: to much softener reduces inter fiber
friction and permit fiber migration .
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 32
Cockling & loop distortion
 Cockling : An Irregular surface effect caused by loop
distortion.
 In general its appear in localized groups of distorted
knitted loops which have twisted out of the symmetrical
configuration .
 Generally on plain knit structure and specially in yarns
spun from animal fiber such as wool or mohair .
 Worsted yarn is more prone to cockling because no
milling treatment is carried out in finishing .
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 33
Type of cockling
 1. Rib / plain interface cockling :It caused by
difference in the relaxed width of 2 structure.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 34
Panel edge cockling :
 Difference in the relaxed dimension of
neighboring structure.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 35
Random all over cockling :
 Almost always this can be assigned to using
unsuitable yarn,
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 36
Reason for cockling
 Yarn count, twist play main role in yarn
irregularity.
 Steaming: it causes setting of yarn &
increased rigidity in case of shrink resist yarn.
 Crimp, dyeing method, cover factor.
 Remedy: Finer wool ,regular or even yarn,
avoid package dyeing, more crimp yarn can
remove cockling.
janmayhada@gmail.com 37
Reason for cockling
 crimp, Method of dyeing
 Cover factor : lower the cover factor ,less
stable the resultant fabric and greater
possibility of cockling
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 38

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KnittingFaults.ppt

  • 1. Knit fabric defects FP Technology 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 1
  • 2. Skewing  Skewing or Bias : Line or design running at slight angle across the cloth. 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 2
  • 4. Bowing or Twisting  A line/design curve across the fabric .  Reason : Faulty take up mechanism on knitting machine 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 4
  • 5. Knots in knit fabric: 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 5
  • 6. Needle line  Cause: due to defective needle, dirty needle slot, improper lubrication of needle, needle too tight or loose or bent needle  Remedies: replacing defective needle, remove the fibers in tricks, remove bent needle, checking the needle sequence 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 6
  • 7. Hole CAUSE REMEDIES Due To Tight Knot Ensure uniform tension Needle break due to slub Rate of yarn feed should be strictly regulated Due to high tension of yarn Eyelets, yarn guides, should not have any fibres, fluff & wax etc 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 7
  • 8. Oil Mark 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 8 Cause Remedy Due to improper lubrication use oil as lubricant Fibres accumulated in needle tricks Fibre and fluff accumulated in the needle trick, which remain soaked with oil Remove all the needles and sinker of machine and clean it. Cleaning the grooves of cylinder and dial of machine.
  • 9. Slub ( Thick and thin place) Cause Remedy Uneven tension, uneven course, Mix count, lot mix in blow room Prevent count or lot mixing, maintain uniform yarn tension 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 9
  • 10. Ladder ( Fabric Run )  A run or ladder indicates a row of dropped stitches in the wale.  Reason: Yarn carrier are not set properly.  Stitch has been formed loosely 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 10
  • 11. Ladder :Wales collapse in straight line 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 11
  • 12. Barre / Shade bar  A barre effect has the appearance of a stripe with shaded edge .  It is horizontal in weft knit fabric & vertical in warp knit fabric. 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 12
  • 14. Reason of barre defect  Due to Yarn / Due to machine  Yarn related cause : Count variation, twist variation, wrong yarn (size, color, blend ,twist direction ) ,mixed yarn lots ,uneven oiling or waxing ,improper conditioning . 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 14
  • 15. Reason of barre  Machine related cause :  Different stich length ,Improper tension  Faulty dial & cylinder settings  Improper threading  Variation in take down or spreader system  Machine vibration  Dirt ,lint or yarn fragments in tricks ,needles ,sinkers or in cam system. 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 15
  • 16.  Variation in oil content  Worn needles ,which generally produce length direction streaks  Uneven cylinder height 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 16
  • 17. Recommendation to minimize barre`  Knit an entire dyeing lot in same knit machine.  Same spinning lot for entire fabric.  Determine from quality control for same quality of y.arn for entire lot 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 17
  • 18. Fly yarn contamination 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 18
  • 19. Fabric weight out of tolerance 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 19
  • 21. Stain ( excessive oil or dirt ) 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 21
  • 22. Pin marks : poorly adjusted Stenter pin 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 22
  • 23. Spirality  This is very common problem in single jersey fabric.  It is deformation of knit fabric due to yarn twisting so that the vertical lines or wales are no longer at right angle to horizontal lines  It does not appear in rib or interlock fabrics. 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 23
  • 26. Problems due to Spirality  In knitted garments the practical problem arise due to spirallty.  Shifting of seams, Mismatching, Patterning and sewing difficulties  These problem are often corrected by finishing steps such as resin treatment,heat & steam ,so the wale line are perpendicular to course line.  Such setting are not stable ,and after repeated washing cycle it normally reoccurs. 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 26
  • 27. Spirality  It is caused by “ Unbalanced yarn”.  Only option is to use replacement yarn having balanced twist.(in finishing stage we alleviate the problem but not permanently ). 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 27
  • 28.  Calculation  Percentage change in spirality can be represented as follows. 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 28
  • 29. Facing up  It can be defined as unwanted surface fiber leading to change in the appearance of the garment.  Knit fabric made from woolen yarns generally are finished to create fuzzy / hairy surface and during wear/abrasion the reverse effect is sometime an issue.  It can occur all over garment or in localized area. 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 29
  • 31. Facing up  Reason : gradual withdrawal of fibers from surface layer of yarns (migration) and can in many cases lead to pilling.  Facing up tend to occur abrasion resistance are such as during tumble drying. 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 31
  • 32. Facing up  The tendency to facing up depends upon several factor ,very similar with pilling  Fiber length : short / broken fiber migrate easily.  Fiber diameter: finer fiber tends to be shorter & thus more likely to migrate.  Yarn twist : low/irregular twist perform migration  Cover factor: high density increase inter fiber friction  Fabric softener: to much softener reduces inter fiber friction and permit fiber migration . 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 32
  • 33. Cockling & loop distortion  Cockling : An Irregular surface effect caused by loop distortion.  In general its appear in localized groups of distorted knitted loops which have twisted out of the symmetrical configuration .  Generally on plain knit structure and specially in yarns spun from animal fiber such as wool or mohair .  Worsted yarn is more prone to cockling because no milling treatment is carried out in finishing . 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 33
  • 34. Type of cockling  1. Rib / plain interface cockling :It caused by difference in the relaxed width of 2 structure. 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 34
  • 35. Panel edge cockling :  Difference in the relaxed dimension of neighboring structure. 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 35
  • 36. Random all over cockling :  Almost always this can be assigned to using unsuitable yarn, 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 36
  • 37. Reason for cockling  Yarn count, twist play main role in yarn irregularity.  Steaming: it causes setting of yarn & increased rigidity in case of shrink resist yarn.  Crimp, dyeing method, cover factor.  Remedy: Finer wool ,regular or even yarn, avoid package dyeing, more crimp yarn can remove cockling. janmayhada@gmail.com 37
  • 38. Reason for cockling  crimp, Method of dyeing  Cover factor : lower the cover factor ,less stable the resultant fabric and greater possibility of cockling 10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 38