4. Bowing or Twisting
A line/design curve across the fabric .
Reason : Faulty take up mechanism on
knitting machine
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 4
5. Knots in knit fabric:
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 5
6. Needle line
Cause: due to defective needle, dirty needle
slot, improper lubrication of needle, needle
too tight or loose or bent needle
Remedies: replacing defective needle,
remove the fibers in tricks, remove bent
needle, checking the needle sequence
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 6
7. Hole
CAUSE REMEDIES
Due To Tight Knot Ensure uniform tension
Needle break due to slub Rate of yarn feed should be strictly
regulated
Due to high tension of yarn Eyelets, yarn guides, should not have
any fibres, fluff & wax etc
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 7
8. Oil Mark
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 8
Cause Remedy
Due to improper lubrication use oil as
lubricant
Fibres accumulated in needle tricks
Fibre and fluff accumulated in the
needle trick, which remain soaked
with oil
Remove all the needles and sinker of
machine and clean it.
Cleaning the grooves of cylinder and
dial of machine.
9. Slub ( Thick and thin place)
Cause Remedy
Uneven tension, uneven course, Mix
count, lot mix in blow room
Prevent count or lot mixing, maintain
uniform yarn tension
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 9
10. Ladder ( Fabric Run )
A run or ladder indicates a row
of dropped stitches in the wale.
Reason: Yarn carrier are not
set properly.
Stitch has been formed loosely
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 10
12. Barre / Shade bar
A barre effect has the appearance of a stripe
with shaded edge .
It is horizontal in weft knit fabric & vertical in
warp knit fabric.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 12
14. Reason of barre defect
Due to Yarn / Due to machine
Yarn related cause : Count variation, twist
variation, wrong yarn (size, color, blend ,twist
direction ) ,mixed yarn lots ,uneven oiling or
waxing ,improper conditioning .
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 14
15. Reason of barre
Machine related cause :
Different stich length ,Improper tension
Faulty dial & cylinder settings
Improper threading
Variation in take down or spreader system
Machine vibration
Dirt ,lint or yarn fragments in tricks ,needles
,sinkers or in cam system.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 15
16. Variation in oil content
Worn needles ,which generally produce
length direction streaks
Uneven cylinder height
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 16
17. Recommendation to minimize barre`
Knit an entire dyeing lot in same knit
machine.
Same spinning lot for entire fabric.
Determine from quality control for same
quality of y.arn for entire lot
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 17
23. Spirality
This is very common problem in single jersey
fabric.
It is deformation of knit fabric due to yarn
twisting so that the vertical lines or wales are
no longer at right angle to horizontal lines
It does not appear in rib or interlock fabrics.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 23
26. Problems due to Spirality
In knitted garments the practical problem arise due to
spirallty.
Shifting of seams, Mismatching, Patterning and sewing
difficulties
These problem are often corrected by finishing steps
such as resin treatment,heat & steam ,so the wale line
are perpendicular to course line.
Such setting are not stable ,and after repeated washing
cycle it normally reoccurs.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 26
27. Spirality
It is caused by “ Unbalanced yarn”.
Only option is to use replacement yarn
having balanced twist.(in finishing stage we
alleviate the problem but not permanently ).
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 27
28. Calculation
Percentage change in spirality can be
represented as follows.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 28
29. Facing up
It can be defined as unwanted surface fiber
leading to change in the appearance of the
garment.
Knit fabric made from woolen yarns generally
are finished to create fuzzy / hairy surface and
during wear/abrasion the reverse effect is
sometime an issue.
It can occur all over garment or in localized area.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 29
31. Facing up
Reason : gradual withdrawal of fibers from
surface layer of yarns (migration) and can in
many cases lead to pilling.
Facing up tend to occur abrasion resistance are
such as during tumble drying.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 31
32. Facing up
The tendency to facing up depends upon several factor
,very similar with pilling
Fiber length : short / broken fiber migrate easily.
Fiber diameter: finer fiber tends to be shorter & thus
more likely to migrate.
Yarn twist : low/irregular twist perform migration
Cover factor: high density increase inter fiber friction
Fabric softener: to much softener reduces inter fiber
friction and permit fiber migration .
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 32
33. Cockling & loop distortion
Cockling : An Irregular surface effect caused by loop
distortion.
In general its appear in localized groups of distorted
knitted loops which have twisted out of the symmetrical
configuration .
Generally on plain knit structure and specially in yarns
spun from animal fiber such as wool or mohair .
Worsted yarn is more prone to cockling because no
milling treatment is carried out in finishing .
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 33
34. Type of cockling
1. Rib / plain interface cockling :It caused by
difference in the relaxed width of 2 structure.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 34
35. Panel edge cockling :
Difference in the relaxed dimension of
neighboring structure.
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 35
36. Random all over cockling :
Almost always this can be assigned to using
unsuitable yarn,
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 36
37. Reason for cockling
Yarn count, twist play main role in yarn
irregularity.
Steaming: it causes setting of yarn &
increased rigidity in case of shrink resist yarn.
Crimp, dyeing method, cover factor.
Remedy: Finer wool ,regular or even yarn,
avoid package dyeing, more crimp yarn can
remove cockling.
janmayhada@gmail.com 37
38. Reason for cockling
crimp, Method of dyeing
Cover factor : lower the cover factor ,less
stable the resultant fabric and greater
possibility of cockling
10/2/2023 janmayhada@gmail.com 38