Organic Follow Up H&M Tracking and Tracing System

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Organic Cotton Program
H&M’s Tracking and Tracing
System

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I Organic Cotton: Basic Information

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What is Wrong with Conventional Cotton?
 Close to 1300 species of pests can attack cotton crops.
 Cotton represents about 3% of the world’s crop but it
consumes approximately 25% of the insecticides and 10%
of the pesticides used in the world.
 Almost 10% of the final market value is spent on
pesticides.
 Pesticides and synthetic fertilizers pollute the environment
and are harmful to our health.
 They can cause damage to the hormone and immune
system in humans and animals. Some of them are
suspected to be carcinogenic.
 They can also be dangerous to humans and animals who
use cotton seeds as a food source.

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What is Organic Cotton?
 The term “Organic" indicates to the way agricultural
products, food or fiber are grown and processed.
 Organic Cotton is grown with natural fertilizers and
pesticides.
 Organic agriculture does not permit the use of synthetic,
toxic, persistent pesticides and fertilizers.

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Organic Cotton Yarn: Some Information
Possible Yarn Counts:
 20/1-40/1 Ne – Commonly available yarn counts.
 50/1 Ne – Possible with some of the spinners.
 60/1 Ne and finer- Difficult to find.
Production (Spinning) Issues:
 For 100% organic cotton yarn, spinning machines have
to be stopped and cleaned before starting the production.
 It is better to place all the yarn orders at the same time
to get the consistency in production and good delivery
time.

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H&M’s Organic Cotton Program
We are aware of the negative environmental impact of
conventional cotton farming and continuously working
towards sustainable cotton production.
To encourage organically grown cotton, starting from
2004, H&M has included 5 percent organic cotton in many
children's’/baby orders from Turkey and India. But the
garments did not carry a special label.

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H&M’s Organic Cotton Program
2004 2005 2006
5 tonnes of
organic cotton
 50 tonnes of organic cotton
One shirt designed by Stella
McCartney was produced from
100% organic
 H&M co-sponsored the
Organic Exchange’s conference
in Turkey
 30 tonnes of
organic cotton
Plans for year 2007: To increase Organic Cotton blend
orders and also, to start 100% organic cotton collection.

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II Organic Cotton Blends

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Requirements for Organic Cotton Blends
Blends can be produced by mixing organic cotton from
5% to 94%
Requirements from the spinner:
A. Control Union Certificate of Blended Yarn as per OE-100
standard ( According to NOP and EEC 2092/2091)
B. Original “Certificate for Delivery” from Control Union as
per OE-100 yarn for every order.
C. Total fiber usage chart prepared by the mill
Requirements from the garment manufacturer:
D. Allocation chart to show how the yarn quantity has been
allocated to different H&M orders.
Garment manufacturers to collect all 4 certificates (A to D) and
submit them to H&M merchandiser.

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A. Certificate of Blended Yarn as per
OE-100 standard
This certificate is issued
by Control Union to the
spinning mills who can
produce Organic Cotton
as per Organic Exchange
Standards.

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B. Certificate for Delivery
This certificate is issued
by Control Union for
every lot delivered by OE
certified spinning mill.

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C. Total Fiber Usage Chart
Yarn Supplier:
Supplier Name Total produced yarn -net (KG)
Yarn count: 6460,80 kg.
Bobbin losses 1.7
Ring 0.1
Simplex 0.1
………. 0.1
Combing 18
…. 0
…. 0.1
Bale opening + mixing %
…… 3.6
…….. 0.8 Total usage of cotton fibre
Total losses % 8614.4 Kg
Total usage of organic cotton fibre
430.72 Kg
Total usage of conventional cotton fibre -
8183.68 Kg

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Skal Cert.Number
Skal Balance
Net Kg. Gross Kg. Net Kg. Gross Kg.
Order No Yarn supplier Yarn count
Qnty used for these orders
Net Kg. Gross Kg.
Total
D. Total Usage of Organic Cotton

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Organic Cotton Chart (Prepared by H&M)
Supplier Qnty Delivery Details
Certificate
No.
Total yarn
kg
Organic
cotton kg
Conventional
cotton kg
Orma 17747 10/1/2005 5%organic rcvd 5880.85 392.06 7449.08
Orma 3755 2/28/2005 5%organic rcvd 542.5 36.17 687.17
inteks 23000
20-27/06
04/07
5%
organic rcvd 6662.67 333.13 6329.53
Sumo 24716 7/2/2005 5%organic rcvd Total Total Total
sumo 18435 3/1/2005 5%organic rcvd
Sumo 7492 17/1/2005 5%organic rcvd usage usage usage
sumo 1149 7/3/2005 5%organic rcvd
Sumo 21712 10/1/2005 5%organic rcvd for for for

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III 100% Organic Cotton Orders

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Requirements for Organic Cotton Label
What we need to label our garments as “Produced from
Organic Cotton”?
 At least 95% organic cotton should be used
 “Declaration document” should be produced
Who issues the “Declaration document”?
 Issued by Control Union (it should be in original with the
Control Union stamp on it).
When?
 This document has to be sent to H&M merchandiser a week
later than shipment date

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Declaration from Control Union
This certificate is
issued by Control
Union if they are
satisfied with all the
documents submitted
to them.

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Declaration (for Order with Mélange Yarn)

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Declaration of mélange yarn

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Requirements to get the Declaration
Document
You need to collect various documents from:
(1) Spinner
(2) Weaver/Knitter
(3) Dyeing Mill
OR (4) Fabric Supplier (in case ready fabric is
sourced)
(5) Garment Manufacturer

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1 Requirements from the Spinner
A. Control Union Certificate of Sustainable Textile
Production and Blended Yarn ( According to NOP and
EEC 2092/2091)
B. Original “Certificate for Delivery” of sustainable textile
product-for yarn for each and every order.

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1A. “Sustainable Textile Certificate” from
Control Union
This certificate is issued
by Control Union to the
spinning mills who can
produce 100% Organic
Cotton as per Sustainable
Textile Certificate.

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1B. Certificate for Delivery of Sustainable
Textile Product
This certificate is issued
by Control Union for
every lot delivered by
‘Sustainable Textile’
certified spinning mill.

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2 Requirements from Knitting/ Weaving
A. Copy of ‘transport document’: from supplier to knitter/
weaver
B. Copy of the ‘companionship card’ from the knitter/weaver
(Job Card)
C. Copy of transport document: from knitter/weaver to
supplier (total Net delivered fabric weight and the wastage
must be clearly indicated on the transport document)
D. Copy of Invoice: from knitter/weaver to supplier
E. Copy of the label accompanying the fabric : The label on
the raw material must always indicate that the fiber is
100% organic cotton (or depending on a composition 95%
organic cotton-5% elastane)

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2A. Transport Document from Supplier to
Knitter/ Weaver
It should contain:
Yarn Count
Yarn composition (100%
organic) and type of fabric
Quantity of yarn
Name of the spinner, garment
manufacturer and the
knitter/weaver
It would be good if H&M order
number can also be mentioned.
If knitting/weaving is in-house,
internal document between the
garment unit and knitting/weaving
division is required.

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2B. Job Card from Knitter/Weaver
It is an internal document in a
knitting/weaving unit giving
production details.
It should contain:
Yarn Count, Yarn composition
(100% organic), type of fabric
Quantity of yarn
Name of the spinner, garment
manufacturer and the knitter/spinner
 Machine details (gauge, loom
width etc)
It would be good if H&M order
number can also be mentioned.

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2C. Transport Document from
Knitter/Weaver to the Supplier

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2D. A copy of the Invoice

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2E. Label on the Raw Fabric
IPLIK NO:
KOMPOZISYON:100% ORGANIK
PAMUK
PUS:
FINE:
KUMAS TIPI:
GRAMAJ
:
TOPLAM KG:
A copy of the label
accompanying each un-dyed
fabric roll.
It should contain:
Yarn Count,
Yarn composition (100%
organic)
Type of fabric and fabric weight
Weight of the roll
Name of the knitter/spinner
It would be good if H&M order
number can also be mentioned.

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3 Requirements from the Dyeing Mill
A. A copy of Transport document: from supplier to dyeing
mill
B. A copy of Companionship card from the dyeing mill
(Job Card)
C. A copy of Transport document: from the dyeing mill to
supplier (total net delivered fabric weight and the
wastage must be clearly indicated on the transport
document)
D. A copy of Invoice
E. A copy of the label accompanying the dyed fabric : The
label on the dyed fabric must always indicate that the
fiber is 100% organic cotton (or depending on a
composition 95% organic cotton-5% elastane)

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3A. Transport Document from Supplier to
Dyeing mill
It should contain:
Yarn Count
Yarn composition (100%
organic) and type of fabric
Quantity of fabric
Name of the garment
manufacturer and the dyeing mill
It would be good if H&M
order number can also be
mentioned.
If dyeing is in-house, internal
document between the garment
unit and dyeing division is
required.

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3B. Job Card from the Dyeing Mill
It is an internal document in
a dyeing unit giving
production details.
It should contain:
Yarn Count, Yarn composition
(100% organic), type of fabric
Quantity of the fabric
Name of the garment
manufacturer
Machine details
It would be good if H&M order
number can also be mentioned.

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3C. Transport Document from Dyeing Mill
to the Supplier

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3D. A Copy of the Invoice

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3E. Label on the Dyed Fabric
A copy of the label
accompanying each dyed
fabric roll.
It should contain:
Fabric composition (100%
organic)
Type of fabric and fabric weight
(gsm)
Weight of the roll
Name of the dyer
It would be good if H&M order
number can also be mentioned.

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4 Requirements for Declaration from
Fabric supplier
If your fabric supplier is certified by Control union, no need
to have any of the documents stated before.
Only required document is a Declaration for fabric from
Control Union (to declare that the 100% organic cotton
fiber is produced according to EEC 2092/2091 and NOP
standards)
The fabric must be dyed in compliance with H&M’s
chemical commitments.

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4A. Declaration for Fabric

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5 Requirements from Garment Producer
A. A copy of the internal production-cards (Job Card)
B. A copy of the transport document (between the
production units)
C. A copy of the final transport document

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5A. Production Card

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Cutting Section Stitching and Packing

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5B. A copy of Transport Document

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5C. A Copy of the Transport Document

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Contacts
For more worldwide information you could visit web site
www.organicexchange.org
Organic Exchange is a non-profit organization committed to expanding organic
agriculture and they are based in USA.
Certifier -Control Union
Contact Person: Mr Sanjaya Pathirage
(skpathirage@controlunion.com)
Binay Kumar Choudhury bkchoudhury@controlunion.com Phone: +91-9969002860
Mr Sanchal sk@controlunion.in
Mumbai Contact : +91-22-67255390/91/92/93

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THANK YOU!
ANY QUESTIONS?
AZAD MUHAMMAD
H&M DHAKA
azad.muhammad@hm.com