c012f31d-c4f2-40a6-b0cb-9235b2784633.pdf

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Materials ..……….…………………………………………………………………………………………………….…..……..3
General Advice ...……..…………………………………………………………………………………….…………..…….4
Pattern
• Head ….………………………………………………………………………..……………….…………………….…….5
• Legs and body ……..……………………………………….…………………..………….………………….….…….9
• Muzzle ……..…..…………………..…………….……………….…………………………………………………..….11
• Spikes ………..………………………………………………………….…………………….…………………………..12
• Arms ....…………………………………….……………………….………………………………………………..……13
• Head membrane …………………………………………………………………………….………………….……..14
• Eyes ………………....……………………….………………………………………………………….………………….15
• Tail ……………………………………………………………….……………………………………….…….…….…….16
• Horns ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….17
• Wings ..……………………………………………………….……………………………………………………………20
• Breastplate ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………….26
• Belt …………………………………………..…………………………………………………………………………..…28
• Horn jewelry …………………..…………………………………………………………………………..……………29
Assembly …..…………………………………………………………………………………………………………..….…….30
Basic crochet techniques ..…………………………………………………….………………………………….……38
Etsy LyraLuneDesigns.etsy.com
Ravelry ravelry.com/designers/lyra-lune
1. This pattern is for your personal use only. You may not modify, share it or distribute it in any way.
2. You can sell finished products made from this pattern on a small scale, provided that you made them yourself.
Crediting us on the physical item (such as on a tag or a card) would be appreciated but is not required.
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Table of contents
Email contact@lyralune.com
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P a g e | 3
• Sport weight (No.2) - Alize Cotton Gold
• Sport weight (No.2) – YarnArt Jeans
▪ 2.25 mm and 2 mm hooks
▪ Yarn needle
▪ Stitch marker
▪ Pins (to facilitate assembly)
▪ Scissors
▪ Stuffing
▪ Wire (for the wings and tail)
▪ 2 small buttons (optional, to secure the
belt with buttons to the body instead of
sewing it on)
Yarn Tools
1. Abbreviations
Ch = chain stitch (Tutorial Page 38)
Sc = single crochet (Tutorial Page 41)
Inc = increase (Tutorial Page 48)
Dec = invisible decrease (Tutorial Page 48)
BLO = back loops only (Tutorial Page 40)
(….) x … = repeat instructions in brackets
[..] = total number of stitches in the row
MR = magic ring (Tutorial Page 45)
Rnd = round
St = stitch
Sl st = slip stitch (Tutorial Page 49)
Hdc = half double crochet (Tutorial Page 43)
Dc = double crochet (Tutorial Page 44)
F.O. = fasten off
2. Materials
You can use whatever yarn size, color and type you want. Keep in mind that the size of the finished toy will
change depending on what yarn and hook combination you use.
Using the indicated tools, Dusk will be 20 cm / 8 inches tall (tip of the horn to feet).
Before you begin

P a g e | 4
▪ Make sure your tension is tight. This will ensure that the stitches will come out neat and
no stuffing will show through at the end.
▪ If you want to make the toy smaller or larger, you can either change up the yarn size,
the hook size, or a combination of both. If you want a larger toy, work with thicker yarn or a
bigger hook or both, and vice versa for a smaller toy.
▪ When working in the round, start with a magic circle or foundation chain, then crochet
continuously without joining with a slip stitch at the end of the round. This will ensure you do
not end up with an inaesthetic seam. Use a stitch marker at the end of each round to keep
track of your position.
▪ I recommend using the Yarn Under/Yarn Over method when crocheting “single
crochet” stitches in amigurumi, as this will produce the more aesthetically pleasing X stitches.
▪ Turn your project right side out. The side that should be on the outside is the one that
has the neat X stitches (if using the yarn under method) or the V stitches (if using the yarn
over method). Another way in which you can tell the right side, is to go by the yarn tail from
the magic ring – this should be on the inside of the work. And yet another way to figure this
out is by the direction in which you work. If the project is right side out, you will be working
clockwise. If it’s wrong side out, then you’re working counterclockwise.
▪ Take your time with stuffing. More stuffing than you think is necessary for a firm shape.
Stuff as much as you can, without getting to the point where you’re stretching the stitches too
much.
3. General Advice and Tips

P a g e | 5
4. Let’s make a dragon!
Head
BODY
Begin with DENIM yarn.
Make a foundation chain and work around it in a continuous spiral.
Round Instructions Total
1 Chain 15 [15]
2
From second chain from hook: 13 sc, 3 sc in next stitch,
continue crocheting on the underside of the chain (Pic. 1):
12 sc, 1 increase, 1 sl st into the 1st stitch.
Place stitch marker in the sl st loop (Pic. 2)
[30]
3 (12 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 1 sc, 3 sc in next stitch) x 2 [38]
4 (13 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 3 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 1 sc) x 2 [46]
At the end of round 9 (Pic. 3), do not place the stitch marker, instead
continue to crochet 6 more sc then place stitch marker (Pic. 4). We are
changing the start/end point for the next rounds to be in the middle of this
side of the rectangle.
With the next round, start alternating DENIM and PISTACHIO.
Remember the color change always begins a stitch earlier. You can find a
guide on color changes at the end of this document (Page 50). The pistachio
color should cover the entire front of the head and go around the corners a
bit approx. evenly. Depending on stitch and tension (especially if you use V
stitches), this may not happen for you. If you notice this is the case, just
adjust the point where you do the color change.
Some color changes towards the end of the head happen in the middle of a
corner decrease. In this case, just grab the 3 sc for the decrease on the hook
(regardless of their color), pull yarn of the old color through the 3 loops, then
attach the new color and finish the decrease with the new color.
1 Underside of chain
2
3
4
5

P a g e | 6
10
DENIM 26 sc
PISTACHIO BLO 35 sc (only these 35 sc in BLO)
DENIM 25 sc - (Pic. 5)
[86]
11-27
DENIM 26 sc
PISTACHIO 35 sc
DENIM 25 sc (17 rounds)
[86]
28
DENIM 26 sc
PISTACHIO 35 sc
DENIM 21 sc
[82]
Place a stitch marker in the 21st denim stitch of round 28. The next stitch
will be the beginning of round 29 (Pic. 6-7). This is to make sure the corner
decreases align with the corner increases from rounds 1-9. If they don’t
align for you (more likely is you use V stitches), adjust the starting point for
round 29 accordingly – use Pic. 7 as an approximate guide for where your
starting point for round 29 should be.
29
DENIM 18 sc, 3 sc tog, 9 sc,
PISTACHIO 4 sc, 3 sc tog, 24 sc, 3 sc tog, 1 sc,
DENIM 12 sc, 3 sc tog, 6 sc (Pic. 8)
[78]
30
PISTACHIO 3 sc, 3 sc tog, 22 sc, 3 sc tog,
DENIM 11 sc, 3 sc tog, 5 sc
[70]
31
[62]
32
[54]
33
PISTACHIO 3 sc tog, 16 sc, 3 sc tog,
[46]
34
[38]
35
DENIM 1 sc, 3 sc tog
[30]
Start stuffing (Pic. 9). Make sure not to overstuff or the head might lose its
shape and become bulgy.
36 DENIM 11 sc, dec, dec, 11 sc, dec, dec [26]
Do 1 sl st, F.O. and leave a long thread.
With a yarn needle, sew the head closed. (Pic. 10)
6
Move marker here
7
8
9
10
11

P a g e | 7
FOREHEAD FLAP
Work with DENIM yarn in turning rows.
Attach denim yarn to the front loops of round 10 (Pic. 1), on
the left side of the head:
1
ch 1 (counts as first sc), 34 sc, ch 1 to turn
(Pic. 2)
[35]
2 (dec) x 2, 27 sc, (dec) x 2, ch 1 to turn [31]
5 dec, 19 sc, dec, ch 1 to turn [21]
11 dec, 7 sc, dec (Pic. 3) [9]
F.O. and cut the yarn. Reattach the yarn to the first row on the
right side of the head (Pic. 4) and crochet a sc border across
the edges of the flap. When you reach the other side, F.O. and
knot the tail with the tail from the initial attachment point of
row 1 (Pic. 5) and weave in the ends into the head.
Use denim yarn to sew the flap to the head along the sc border,
but make sure you leave the loops free as you will be using
them next. Don't pull too tight so you don't deform the
stitches. When you finish, F.O. and weave in the tail ends.
1
2
3
4
5
6

P a g e | 8
EYEBROWS I
Work with DENIM yarn. You will work the left and right
eyebrows separately.
Start on the left side of the head. Attach yarn to the left upper
corner of the forehead flap and sl st into the next st, then work
(going down towards the bottom left corner, along the left
diagonal):
Ch 4 (Pic. 2), from the 3rd ch from hook: sc, hdc, dc into the base
st (Pic. 3), sc in the next st, sl st in the next st,
Ch 4 (Pic. 4), from the 3rd ch from hook: sc, hdc, dc into the base
st, sc in the next st, sl st in the next st
Ch 3 (Pic. 5), from the 2nd ch from hook: sc, hdc, dc into the base
st, sc in the next st, sl st in the next st
Ch 2, from the 2nd ch from hook: sc, hdc into the base st, sc in
the next st, sl st in the next st
Ch 2, from the 2nd ch from hook: sc, hdc into the base st, sc in
the next st, sl st in the next st
Ch 2, sc into the base st, sc in the next st, sl st in the next st. F.O.
and weave in the yarn ends. (Pic. 6)
Turn the head upside down and attach yarn to the top right corner
of the flap and work the same sequence as above for the right
eyebrow (Pic. 7). F.O. and weave in the yarn ends when done.
1
2
3
4 5 6
7
Start

P a g e | 9
Body and legs
EYEBROWS II x 2
Work with DENIM yarn in turning rows.
Stitches worked from the same foundation chain are in {}.
1. Ch 12
2. From 2nd ch: (hdc, in the next ch crochet {hdc, ch 3,
sc in 3rd ch, hdc in base ch}) x 3, hdc, in the next ch
crochet {hdc, ch 3, sc in 3rd ch, sc in base ch}, sc, in
the next ch crochet {sc, ch 3, sc in 3rd ch, sc in base
ch}, sc in next ch.
F.O. leave a tail for sewing.
LOWER EYELIDS x 2
Work with PISTACHIO yarn in turning rows.
Row Instructions Total
1 Chain 13 [13]
2 From 2nd ch: 12 sc [12]
Sl st in the same ch as the last st, F.O., leave a tail for
sewing
LEGS x 2
Begin with DARK GREY yarn and work in a continuous
spiral.
1 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
2 (inc, sc) x 3 [9]
3 (inc, 2 sc) x 3 [12]
4 inc, 11 sc [13]
Change to DENIM yarn.
5 inc, 12 sc [14]
6 inc, 13 sc [15]
7 inc, 14 sc [16]
8 inc, 15 sc [17]
1
2

P a g e | 10
9 17 sc [17]
F.O. the first leg and crochet the second leg following the
same steps above.
After crocheting the second leg, don't cut the yarn, instead:
Chain 4 and attach the chain with a sl st to
the first leg – position the color changes
inwards and if needed, add some stitches to
either leg to make this happen (Pic. 2).
Continue crocheting the next rows around
both legs including in the chain loops.
1
17 sc around the first leg, 4 sc on the chain
(Pic. 3), 17 sc around the second leg, 4 sc on
the other side of the chain (Pic. 4)
[42]
2 (6 sc, inc) x 6 [48]
3 (7 sc, inc) x 6 [54]
4 (8 sc, inc) x 6 [60]
Stuff the legs firmly.
5-10 60 sc (6 rounds) [60]
11 (8 sc, dec) x 6 [54]
12 54 sc [54]
13 (7 sc, dec) x 6 [48]
14 48 sc [48]
15 (6 sc, dec) x 6 [42]
16 42 sc [42]
17 (5 sc, dec) x 6 [36]
18 36 sc [36]
19 (10 sc, dec) x 3 [33]
20 33 sc [33]
21 (9 sc, dec) x 3 [30]
22 30 sc [30]
23 (8 sc, dec) x 3 [27]
24 27 sc [27]
Stuff firmly, F.O. and leave long thread for sewing.
3
4
5
6

P a g e | 11
Muzzle
Work with DENIM yarn in a continuous spiral.
2 3 sc in each of the 4 stitches [12]
3 sc, (3 sc in 1 st, 2 sc) x 3, 3 sc in 1 st, sc [20]
4 2 sc, (3 sc in 1 st, 4 sc) x 3, 3 sc in 1 st, 2 sc [28]
5-6 28 sc (2 rounds) [28]
7 (13 sc, inc) x 2 [30]
8 30 sc [30]
9 (9 sc, inc) x 3 [33]
10 33 sc [33]
11 (10 sc, inc) x 3 [36]
12 36 sc [36]
F.O and leave a long tail for sewing.
NOSTRILS x 2
Make 2 x pieces with BLACK yarn and 2 x pieces with
DENIM yarn.
Tighten the ring so that it forms a semicircle and for the
black nostrils also F.O. and cut the yarn.
For the denim nostrils, after the 4 sc, ch 1 and turn the piece,
place it over the black one, and crochet 4 sc through both
pieces together.
F.O. and leave a denim yarn tail for sewing.

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Head & Muzzle spikes
TINY SPIKE
Work with DARK GREY yarn in a continuous spiral.
Use a 2 mm hook.
2 (inc, sc) x 2 [6]
3 6 sc [6]
F.O. and leave a tail for sewing.
SMALL SPIKE x 2
Use a 2 mm hook.
2 (inc, sc) x 2 [6]
3 (inc, 2 sc) x 2 [8]
4 (inc, 3 sc) x 2 [10]
5 10 sc [10]
MEDIUM SPIKE
Use a 2 mm hook.
2 (inc, sc) x 2 [6]
3 (inc, 2 sc) x 2 [8]
4 (inc, 3 sc) x 2 [10]
5 (inc, 4 sc) x 2 [12]
6-7 12 sc (2 rounds) [12]

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Arms
LARGE SPIKE
Use a 2 mm hook.
2 (inc, sc) x 2 [6]
3 (inc, 2 sc) x 2 [8]
4 (inc, 3 sc,) x 2 [10]
5 (inc, 4 sc,) x 2 [12]
6 (inc, 5 sc) x 2 [14]
7-8 14 sc (2 rounds) [14]
ARMS x 2
Start with DARK GREY yarn and work in a continuous
spiral.
2 Inc x 6 [12]
3-4 12 sc (2 rounds) [12]
5 (2 sc, dec) x 3 [9]
6 9 sc [9]
Stuff firmly
7 9 sc [9]
Change to DENIM.
8-19 9 sc (12 rounds) [9]
Do not stuff the denim part.
Flatten hands and crochet across the top through both
sides to close them. F.O. and leave a long tail for sewing.

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Head Membrane
HEAD MEMBRANE x 2
Start with DENIM yarn and work in turning rows.
1 Chain 8 [8]
2
From the second chain from hook:
7 sc, ch 1 to turn
[7]
Change to PISTACHIO yarn.
4 2 sc, hdc, 2 dc, ch 2 to turn [5]
5
From the 3rd ch from hook:
2 dc, hdc, 2 sc, ch 1 to turn
[5]
Change to DENIM yarn. (Pic. 1)
6 5 sc, ch 4 (Pic. 2) [6]
7
From 4th chain from hook: 6 sc, ch 1 to
turn (Pic. 3)
[6]
Change to PISTACHIO yarn.
8 2 sc, hdc, 2 dc, ch 2 to turn [5]
9
From the 3rd ch from hook:
2 dc, hdc, 2 sc, ch 1 to turn
[5]
Change to DENIM yarn.
10 5 sc, ch 4 [6]
11 From 4th chain from hook: 6 sc (Pic. 4) [6]
Continue crocheting a sc border with denim yarn along the
bottom edge and the opposite lateral side (indicated by white
arrows in Pic. 4).
F.O. and leave a long thread for sewing.
1
2
3
4

P a g e | 15
Eyes
LEFT EYE
Start with MINT yarn and work in a continuous spiral.
2 (inc) x 6 [12]
Change to TURQUOISE yarn and crochet in BLO.
3
sc, (inc) x 2, (hdc inc) x 2, dc inc,
(hdc inc) x 2, inc, 3 sc, F.O.
[20]
Count 10 sts back from the last turquoise stitch and attach
DENIM yarn. (Pic. 1)
4
BLO crochet 10 sl st, towards the
last turquoise st of round 3 (make
the sl sts loose to not warp the eye)
[10]
Embroider the pupil with BLACK yarn.
Make the pupil vertical and position a bit more towards
the nose than the magic ring.
Leave a turquoise yarn tail for sewing. Knot with each
other all other yarn tails and cut them short.
RIGHT EYE
Start with MINT yarn and work in a continuous spiral.
2 (inc) x 6 [12]
Change to TURQUOISE yarn and crochet in BLO.
3
sc, inc, (hdc inc) x 2, dc inc,
(hdc inc) x 2, (inc) x 2, 3 sc
[20]
Change to DENIM yarn (no need to count back 10 sts
this time).
4
BLO sl st 10 stitches, (make the sl
sts loose to not warp the eye), F.O.
[10]
Embroider the pupil with BLACK yarn.
Make the pupil vertical and position a bit more towards
the nose than the magic ring.
Leave a turquoise yarn tail for sewing. Knot with each
other all other yarn tails and cut them short.
1
2
3

P a g e | 16
Tail
2 6 sc [6]
3 (2 sc, inc) x 2 [8]
4-6 8 sc (3 rounds) [8]
7 (3 sc, inc) x 2 [10]
8-10 10 sc (3 rounds) [10]
11 (4 sc, inc) x 2 [12]
12-14 12 sc (3 rounds) [12]
15 (3 sc, inc) x 3 [15]
16-18 15 sc (3 rounds) [15]
19 (4 sc, inc) x 3 [18]
20-22 18 sc (3 rounds) [18]
23 10 sc, (inc) x 3, 5 sc [21]
24-26 21 sc (3 rounds) [21]
27 10 sc, (sc, inc) x 3, 5 sc [24]
28-31 24 sc (4 rounds) [24]
F.O. and leave a long tail for sewing.
Cut a piece of wire the length of the tail and insert it in the
tail. Stuff the tail around the wire (use a pencil to push it
deep).
TAIL SPIKES
Work with DARK GREY yarn.
1 Chain 31 [31]
2
From the second chain from hook:
(sc, hdc, dc, ch 3 and sl st in the
same st as the dc) x 10
[30]
F.O. and leave a long tail for sewing.

P a g e | 17
Horns
HORNS x 2
Work in BLO unless specified otherwise.
1 4 sc in a magic ring
[4]
2 (sc, inc) x 2 [6]
3 2 sc, inc, 3 sc [7]
4 4 sc, inc, 2 sc [8]
5 5 sc, inc, 2 sc [9]
6 5 sc, 4 hdc [9]
7 (2 sc, inc) x 3 [12]
8 12 sc (Pic. 1) [12]
9 (3 sc, inc) x 3
[15]
10 15 sc [15]
11
4 sc, inc, 3 sc, hdc, hdc inc, 3 hdc,
hdc inc, hdc
[18]
12 9 sc, 9 hdc [18]
13
5 sc, inc, 3 sc, hdc, hdc inc, 4 hdc,
hdc inc, 2 hdc
[21]
14 10 sc, 11 hdc [21]
15
11 sc, 2 hdc, hdc inc, 4 hdc, hdc inc,
2 hdc
[23]
Stuff the tip of the horn (Pic. 2). Continue stuffing as you go,
firmly but don't overstuff (you don't want the shape to start
bulging out).
16 11 sc, 12 hdc [23]
17
3 hdc
[25]
1
2

P a g e | 18
18
4 hdc
[27]
19 11 sc, 16 hdc [27]
20
5 hdc
[29]
21
6 hdc
[31]
22 11 sc, 20 hdc [31]
23
7 hdc
[33]
24
8 hdc
[35]
25
31 sc - place stitch marker here before
finishing the round (Pic. 3)
[31]
The next segment will be worked in turning rows. To keep
working in the stitch closer to the inside of the horn you will
alternate between BLO and FLO each row.
26 BLO 22 hdc, ch 1 to turn (Pic. 4) [22]
27
FLO hdc dec, 18 hdc, hdc dec,
ch 1 to turn
[20]
28
BLO hdc dec, 16 hdc, hdc dec,
ch 1 to turn
[18]
29
ch 1 to turn
[16]
30
ch 1 to turn
[14]
31
ch 1 to turn
[12]
32
ch 1 to turn
[10]
33
ch 1 to turn
[8]
34 BLO hdc dec, 4 hdc, hdc dec [6]
Move the stitch marker in the last stitch of row 34 (Pic. 5)
and continue crocheting all around. Round 35 is worked
through both loops where applicable.
35
12 sc down the sides of the rows
spaced evenly, 13 sc on the bottom
side, 12 sc up the other side of the
rows spaced evenly, 6 sc along the top
side (Pic. 6)
[43]
36 BLO 43 hdc [43]
37
BLO 27 sc - place stitch marker here
before finishing the round (Pic. 7)
[27]
3
4
5
12 sc
13 sc
12 sc
6 sc
6

P a g e | 19
The next segment will be worked in turning rows. The BLO
will be relative to the inside of the horn, not to you - so
alternate BLO and FLO.
38 BLO 30 hdc, ch 1 to turn [30]
39
FLO hdc dec, 26 hdc, hdc dec, ch 1 to
turn
[28]
40 BLO hdc dec, 24 hdc, hdc dec [26]
Move the stitch marker in the last stitch of row 40 (Pic. 8)
and continue crocheting all around. Round 41 is worked
through both loops where applicable.
41
3 sc down the sides of the rows
spaced evenly, 13 sc on the bottom
side, 3 sc up the other side of the rows
spaced evenly, 26 sc along the top
side (Pic. 9)
[45]
42 BLO 45 hdc [45]
43
BLO Crochet 11 more sc so that you
end on the back of the horn (Pic. 10)
F.O. leave a long tail for sewing.
7
8
9
10

P a g e | 20
Wings
LONG FRAME x 2
2 sc, inc, 2 sc [5]
3 sc, inc, 3 sc [6]
4-9 6 sc (6 rounds) [6]
10 sc, inc, 4 sc [7]
11-13 7 sc (3 rounds) [7]
14 sc, inc, 5 sc [8]
15-16 8 sc (2 rounds) [8]
17 sc, inc, 6 sc [9]
18-19 9 sc (2 rounds) [9]
20 sc, inc, 7 sc [10]
21-22 10 sc (2 rounds) [10]
23 sc, inc, 8 sc [11]
24 11 sc [11]
The next segment will be worked in turning rows.
25 6 sc, ch 1 to turn (Pic. 1) [6]
26 6 sc, ch 1 to turn [6]
28 (dec) x 2, ch 1 to turn [2]
29 dec [1]
Continue crocheting all around.
30
3 sc down the sides of the rows spaced
evenly, 5 sc on the bottom side, 3 sc up the
other side of the rows spaced evenly, 1 sc
along the top side (Pic. 2)
[12]
31 12 sc [12]
1
2

P a g e | 21
32 sc, inc, 10 sc [13]
33 sc, inc, 11 sc [14]
34-39 14 sc (6 rounds) (Pic. 3) [14]
Work the next segment in rows again to make another bend. The
position from where you turn to work in rows will differ for the
right wing and the left wing. For the right wing, you will turn at
the bottom side of the round (Pic. 4) and for the left wing you
will turn at the top side of the round (Pic. 5). Do enough sc to
reach the spots shown in Pic. 4-5, then ch 1 to turn.
43 (dec) x 2 (Pic. 6 & 7) [2]
Continue crocheting all around.
44
3 sc down the sides of the rows spaced
evenly, 6 sc on the bottom side, 3 sc up the
other side of the rows spaced evenly, 2 sc
along the top side (Pic. 2)
[14]
45 sc, inc, 12 sc [15]
46 sc, inc, 13 sc [16]
47 sc, inc, 14 sc (Pic. 8) [17]
F.O. and weave in the yarn tail. Cut a piece of wire the length of
the frame (Pic. 9) and insert it all the way through the frame.
Stuff the last half of the frame using a pencil to push the stuffing
in along the wire (Pic. 10).
3
4 5
6 Right wing
7 Left wing
8 9 10
Right wing Left wing

P a g e | 22
SHORT FRAME x 2
2 sc, inc, 2 sc [5]
3 sc, inc, 3 sc [6]
4-27 6 sc (24 rounds) [6]
WING MEMBRANE I x 4
Work with TURQUOISE yarn in turning rows.
1 Chain 2 [2]
2
In second chain from hook:
Inc, ch 1 to turn
[2]
3-4 2 sc, ch 1 to turn (2 rows) [2]
5 (inc) x 2, ch 1 to turn [4]
7 inc, 2 sc, inc, ch 1 to turn [6]
12 10 sc, ch 1 to turn [10]
14 12 sc, ch 1 to turn [12]
16 14 sc, ch 1 to turn [14]
18 16 sc, ch 1 to turn [16]
20 18 sc, ch 1 to turn [18]
22 4 dc, 4 hdc, 4 sl st, 4 hdc, 4 dc [20]
F.O. and weave in ends.
With DENIM yarn crochet a border along the vertical laterals,
starting from the right corner as you look at it, going up towards
the top and down the other side. Leave a tail for sewing to other
wing parts.

P a g e | 23
WING MEMBRANE II x 2
1 Chain 2 [2]
2
Inc, ch 1 to turn
[2]
5 (inc) x 2, ch 1 to turn [4]
12 10 sc, ch 1 to turn [10]
14 12 sc, ch 1 to turn [12]
16 14 sc, ch 1 to turn [14]
18 16 sc, ch 1 to turn [16]
20 18 sc, ch 1 to turn [18]
22 10 sc, ch 1 to turn (rest st remain unworked) [10]
23 dec, 8 sc, ch 1 to turn [9]
24 7 sc, dec, ch 1 to turn [8]
26 5 sc, dec, ch 1 to turn [6]
28 3 sc, dec [4]
Continue with a sc a border along the side of rows 22-28 (black
arrow in Pic. 1), and sl st into row 21. F.O. and weave in ends.
With DENIM yarn crochet a border along the vertical laterals.
Since the wings have to be mirrored, you will start crocheting the
border from opposite sides depending on which wing you're
working on, so that the neat side will face the front (Pic. 3). For
the left wing, start from the bottom of the long vertical edge and
for the right wing start from the bottom of the short vertical edge.
Go up towards the top and down the other side. Leave a tail for
sewing to other wing parts.
1
2
Start for left wing
Start for right wing
3

P a g e | 24
WING MEMBRANE III x 2
1 Chain 2 [2]
2
Inc, ch 1 to turn
[2]
5 inc, sc, ch 1 to turn [3]
7 inc, 2 sc, ch 1 to turn [4]
16-22 8 sc, ch 1 to turn (7 rows) [8]
24 8 sc, inc, ch 1 to turn [10]
25 inc, 9 sc [11]
Continue crocheting a border around the horizontal
laterals. Leave a long tail for sewing to the rest of the wing.
For the right wing, you can continue with the border
directly from the end of row 25 (Pic. 1). For the left wing, sl
st your way along the vertical edge to reach the end of the
asymmetrical side (Pic. 2) and start crocheting the border
from that point (we are doing this because the wings have
to be placed mirrored and so that the neat side of the
border will face the front on both wings).
Right wing
1
Left wing
2
Right wing
Left wing

P a g e | 25
The below photos will exemplify the assembly for the left wing. Assemble the right wing the same way.
Place three wing pieces next to each other like this:
Wing membrane II towards the outer edge - wing membrane I - wing membrane I (Pic. 1).
Sew them to each other in the back loops of the crochet border along the adjacent vertical sides (Pic 2).
Place the whole membrane assembly along the wing bone as shown in Pic. 3. and sew it to the frame
along the upper edge (Pic. 4).
Place the wing membrane 3 along the base of wing bone and reaching to the half point of the first
membrane (see Pic. 5). Sew it on to the membrane and the frame (Pic. 6).
Sew the small frame segment to the large segment as shown below.
1
Wing
membrane II
Wing
membrane I
2
4 5 6
3

P a g e | 26
Breastplate
LARGE SEGMENT
Work with DARK GREY yarn in turning rows.
1 Chain 13 [13]
2
From second chain from hook:
12 sc, ch 1 to turn
[12]
7
3 sc, 4 hdc, 2 dc, (dc inc) x 2, 2 dc, 4
hdc, 3 sc, ch 1 to turn
[22]
8
hdc, 3 sc
[24]
Crochet a sc border around the two verticals and upper
side. F.O. and leave a tail for assembly.
MEDIUM SEGMENT
1 Chain 11 [11]
2
10 sc, ch 1 to turn
[10]
5
3 sc, 2 hdc, dc, (dc inc) x 2, dc, 2
hdc, 3 sc, ch 1 to turn
[16]
6
hdc, 3 sc
[18]

P a g e | 27
Sew the segments as explained below. I recommend that before you start sewing to place them in the below
mentioned order over the chest of the dragon to make sure they cover it and to help you choose the points
where you will sew.
Place the small segment overlapping the medium segment (Pic. 1) and sew them together with a few stitches
on the overlapping edges.
Place the assembled first two segments over the third segment (Pic. 2) and sew them together with a few stitches
on the overlapping edges.
SMALL SEGMENT
1 Chain 9 [9]
2-3
8 sc, ch 1 to turn (2 rows)
[8]
5 2 sc, 2 hdc, (dc inc) x 2, 2 hdc, 2 sc [12]
1 2

P a g e | 28
Belt
1 Chain 41 [41]
2
40 sc, ch 1 to turn
[40]
3 40 hdc, ch 1 to turn [40]
The next portion will be the three segments of the belt,
crocheted separately.
4 BLO 17 hdc, ch 1 to turn [17]
5 hdc dec, 13 hdc, hdc dec, ch 1 to turn [15]
11 hdc dec, hdc, hdc dec (Pic. 1) [3]
F.O. and weave in the yarn tail.
Attach yarn on row 3 in the BLO 6 stitches away from the end
of row 4 and repeat rows 4-11 (Pic. 2).
Attach yarn on row 3 in the 18th st BLO, right between the two
above segments (Pic. 3).
10 (dec x 2) [2]
F.O. and weave in the yarn tail.
Reattach yarn on row 3, in the 16th stitch FLO (Pic. 5).
1-2 10 sc, ch 1 to turn (2 rows) [10]
6 (dec) x 2 [2]
F.O. and weave in the yarn tail. Crochet a sc border to the
lower edges using PISTACHIO yarn (Pic. 6).
1
2
3
4
5
6

P a g e | 29
Horn jewelry
LARGE CIRCLE
Work with MUSTARD yarn in turning rows.
1 Chain 41 [41]
2-3
40 hdc, ch 1 to turn (2 rows)
[40]
4
17 sc, 2 hdc, dc inc, ch 2, dc inc, 2
hdc, 17 sc (Pic. 1)
[42]
F.O. and use the yarn end to sew it in a circle (Pic. 2).
MEDIUM CIRCLE
Work with MUSTARD yarn in turning rows.
1 Chain 21 [21]
2
20 sc
[20]
F.O. and use the yarn end to sew it in a circle (Pic. 3).
CHAIN
Work with MUSTARD yarn.
1 Chain 25 [25]
Leave a yarn tail both at the beginning and the end for
attachment.
3
2
1

P a g e | 30
Assembly
2. Head and Body
Pin the body to the underside of the head in the middle of the seam where you sew the head shut then
sew it on with the denim yarn tail yarn using a yarn needle.
1. Muzzle
Place the muzzle overlapping the forehead flap by about three rows, centered horizontally. Sew it on
with the leftover yarn tail. When about 2/3 done sewing, stuff the muzzle (just firmly enough for it to
keep it’s square-ish shape), then finish sewing.

P a g e | 31
5. Horns
Place the horns over the 2nd and 3rd rounds from the foundation chain (see first picture below), along the
increase seams (second picture below) that go towards the front corners of the head. Sew them on with
the leftover yarn tails using a yarn needle.
3. Arms
Pin the arms on either side of the body, right
under the head as shown below, and sew them
on.
4. Eyebrows II
Place the eyebrows II right along the flap ridges
under the eyebrows I.
The eyebrows will be mirrored, which means on one
side you will flip them horizontally. When sewing,
also secure them with one stitch to the muzzle, so
that the inner side comes right against the muzzle
and continue sewing along the foundation chain to
the edge of the flap.

P a g e | 32
6. Eyes and eyelids
Place the eyes as shown below, one stitch away from the muzzle, right under the eyebrows. Pin them in
two places and sew them on with turquoise yarn, going through the turquoise stitches.
Place the eyelids right under the bottom edge of the eyes, starting from the inner corner and going along
the underside of the eye to the outer corner. Sew them on to the head with pistachio yarn through the
chain loops.

P a g e | 33
7. Head spikes
Place the spikes on the muzzle and head. Place the tiny spike on the tip of the muzzle, a small spike at
the back of the muzzle, where it touches the head, and the other three spikes on the head, from smallest
to largest, at approximately equal distance from each other. Sew them on using the left over yarn tails.
8. Wings
Place the wings on the back of the dragon, about three rows below the head and 2-3 stitches away from
each other. Sew the frame on using denim yarn. Sew the turquoise membrane to the back along the
vertical edge only using turquoise yarn.

P a g e | 34
9. Head membrane
Place the membranes on the side of the head, next to the head color change and about one stitch below
the horns. Sew them on along the vertical edge with the yarn tail. After sewing, flatten the lower part of
the membrane a bit closer to the head by inserting the needle a few stitches up the middle denim column,
then through the head a few stitches away from the sewing point (Pic. 2) and pull and knot the thread.
10. Nostrils
Place the nostrils at the top of the muzzle, to either
side of the first spike, angled slightly diagonally
and sew them on with denim yarn.
11. Tail
Place the tail on the lower back of the dragon,
about 15 rows below the head and sew it on with
denim yarn.
12. Tail spikes
Place the chain of spikes along the top of the tail,
starting from the tip and going to the back of the
dragon. Pin it in place in a few spots. Use the dark
grey yarn tail to sew it on along the base chain.
1 2 3

P a g e | 35
Clothing
Armor
Place the belt around the middle side of the dragon (so the longest piece touches the ground) and pin it
in place close to the wings. Make sure it is stretches pretty tight, so it almost reaches the wings on both
sides. Leave the belt pinned in place and sew the buttons between the belt and the wing.
Crochet loops for the button. Attach pistachio yarn to the border of the belt, chain a few loops, then slip
stitch in the next stitch of the belt and F.O. How long your chain needs to be depends on the size of your
button – my chain was 7 stitches long for 11 mm buttons.
Alternatively, if you don’t plan on removing the outfit, you can sew it directly to the dragon and not use
buttons.
Crochet neck straps for the breastplate by attaching yarn to each of the two corners of the upper plate
and chaining 20 (Pic. 1). F.O. very tightly and cut the yarn tail short. Weave in the yarn tail at the base
of the chain.
Place the breastplate on the chest of the dragon and knot the straps at the back of the neck (Pic. 2).
Using dark grey yarn, knot the lower corners of the breastplate to the belt to secure it in place (Pic. 3).
1 2 3
1 2 3 4

P a g e | 36
Accessories
Place the large horn ring on
the thick side of the horn and
the small ring on the narrow
side of the horn. Attach the
chain to the large ring around
where the seam is and then
attach it to the small ring in
any spot (you can rotate the
small ring as it’s symmetrical).

P a g e | 37
All done!
I’d love to see it @LyraLuneDesigns
#lyralunedesigns
Thank you for making Dusk

P a g e | 38
1. Slipknot, Chain Stitch and Foundation Chain
5. Basic crochet techniques
• Place the tail end of the yarn over the rest of the thread to form a loop shape (Pic. 1)
• Flip the loop over the yarn thread (direction marked by arrow) to make a pretzel like shape. The
new position of the initial loop is highlighted in the second picture (Pic. 2)
• Insert the hook below the thread (Pic. 3)
• Pull the hook up so that a loop forms
around the hook (Pic. 4) and pull on the
thread to tighten the loop around the
hook (Pic. 5)
• Wrap the thread of yarn from back to
front over the hook, called yarn over
(Pic. 6), and pull it through the loop
that’s on the hook. This will count as the
first chain stitch (Pic. 7)
• Repeat previous step until you have the
desired length chain (Pic. 8)
1 2 3
4 5
6 7 8

P a g e | 39
X shaped stitches are created using the yarn under/yarn over method in single crochet
(see chapter 4).
The X shaped single crochet stitch is the best fit for amigurumi as it has a neater aspect and is tighter
than the stitch created by the yarn over/yarn over method.
The loops on top (shaped like a sideways V) form the top of the stitch, made of two loops (front and
back) and most stitches must be crocheted by inserting the hook through either both or one of these
loops (see next chapter).
3. Inserting the hook through a stitch
The V shape on top is made from two loops. No
matter what stitch you want to create, you must
insert your hook through these loops. The way in
which you insert the hook will produce different
results.
1. Inserting the hook under both loops
(between the V on top and two of the Xs under it)
This is the default way you will almost always
insert the hook when doing amigurumi, if the
pattern doesn’t specify differently.
2. Anatomy of a single crochet stitch

P a g e | 40
The next two techniques of inserting the hook are typically used for aesthetic reasons, to create
ribbing effects, ridges or sharp edges etc.
2. Inserting the hook through the back loop only
This is the second most used technique for inserting the hook in amigurumi. It leaves the front loops
as a ridge which can be useful in multiple ways. A practical example for this is creating a sharp corner
when crocheting a cuboid.
Insert your hook through the middle of the V on top and under the loop that’s furthest away from you.
Continue crocheting whichever stitch you need after inserting your hook in the back loop.
3. Inserting the hook through the front loop only
This is the second most used technique for inserting the hook in amigurumi. It leaves the front loops
as a ridge which can be useful in multiple ways. A practical example for this is creating a sharp corner
when crocheting a cuboid.
Insert the hook from the front, but instead of pushing it all the way through both loops, exit in the
middle of the loops, grabbing only the loop closest to you on the hook. Continue crocheting
whichever stitch you need after inserting your hook in the front loop.

P a g e | 41
4. The single crochet stitch
The single crochet stitch (sc) is the most used stitch in amigurumi. It creates a neat, dense pattern,
perfect for keeping the stuffing well contained.
There are two ways of doing the single crochet stitch:
1. Yarn under/yarn over or the X stitch. This method creates a neater, denser, pixel-like look
for amigurumi and uses less yarn, as you don’t loop the yarn over the hook two times.
Amigurumi created this way will be slightly smaller than their YO/YO counterparts, as the
stitch is inherently tighter.
2. Yarn over/yarn over or the V stitch. This creates a looser type of stitch and is easier to
work into, but requires more care with your tension as it’s easier to have gaps in your work
when crocheting this way.
I will only exemplify the Yarn under/yarn over method as this is the only one I ever use in my
patterns.
In this example I am working into the loops of a previously crocheted round. I will exemplify later
how to work in rows or rounds.
• Insert the hook under the top loops, place the yarn thread under the hook. Drag the yarn back
through the top loops, as indicated by the arrow. (Pic. 1)
• You now have two loops on your hook. Grab the yarn thread again, this time wrapping it over your
hook and drag in back through both of the loops on the hook, as indicated by the arrow. (Pic. 2)
• You have now completed one single crochet stitch. Continue crocheting by repeating steps 1-2 into
the following top loops, as instructed by the pattern you’re following.
2
1 3

P a g e | 42
Start with a foundation chain, as described in Chapter 1, until you have the length you desire.
Next, we will be working single crochet stitches in the loops of the foundation chain.
• Skip the first chain from the hook and insert the hook in the second chain from the hook, as
highlighted in Pic. 1.
• Grab the yarn under the hook and pull it back through the chain loop (Pic. 2)
• Grab the yarn over the hook and pull it back through both loops on the hook at once (Pic. 3)
• You have now completed your first single crochet stitch into the chain (Pic. 4)
• Continue with the above steps into each of the chain loops until you reach the end of the foundation
chain (Pic. 5)
• When you reach the end, make one chain. This is meant to help you turn the work in order to
crochet the next row (Pic. 6)
• Flip the project horizontally. Do not work into the chain you just made, that was only meant to
allow you to turn more easily. Instead, insert your hook into the second stitch from the hook
(under the top loops of the last single crochet stitch you made in the previous row) and continue
doing single crochet stitches until you reach the end of the row again (Pic. 7)
• When you reach the end of the row, chain 1 again, turn your project and continue in this way until
you complete the required number of rows.
5. Working single crochet stitches in rows
1 2 3 4
5 6 7

P a g e | 43
6. The half double crochet stitch
The half double crochet stitch (hdc) is a stitch that
provides more height than the single crochet stitch. In
amigurumi, it is generally used for accessories, clothes, etc.
and not for the main body of the toy, as it runs the risk of
allowing stuffing to show through.
• To start, wrap the yarn over your hook (Pic. 1)
• With the yarn wrapped over it, insert your hook through
the next stitch. Wrap the yarn over the hook again and
pull it back through only the first loop (Pic. 2)
• You now have three loops on your hook. Wrap the yarn
over the hook again and pull it back through all three
loops on your hook at once (Pic. 3)
• Your half double crochet is now completed.
1
2
3
4

P a g e | 44
7. The double crochet stitch
The double crochet stitch (dc) is a stitch that provides more
height than the single crochet and half double crochet stitch. In
amigurumi, like the half double crochet stitch, it is generally
used for accessories, clothes, etc. and not for the main body of
the toy. Being even taller, it leaves even more empty spaces
between stitches, and it cannot hold the stuffing inside without
it showing through.
• To start, wrap the yarn over your hook (Pic. 1)
• With the yarn wrapped over it, insert your hook through the
next stitch. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull it back
through only the loop you just went through. (Pic. 2)
• You now have three loops on your hook. Wrap the yarn over
the hook again and pull it back through the first two loops on
your hook at once (Pic. 3)
• You now have two loops left on your hook. Wrap the yarn one
last time over the hook and pull it back through both the
loops on your hook (Pic. 4)
• Your double crochet stitch is now completed.
1
2
3
4

P a g e | 45
8. The magic ring
Most amigurumi are worked in a continuous spiral instead of rows. The most common way to start
this is by crocheting into a magic ring.
• Place the yarn over your index and middle finger, as shown in Pic. 1
• Bring the long end of the yarn under your fingers and cross it over the short end of the yarn
(Pic. 2), then wrap the long end all the way around and over the top of your fingers (Pic. 3)
• Insert the hook under the first thread and over the second thread (Pic. 4)
• Drag the second thread with the hook back under the first thread (Pic. 5)
• Twist the hook so that the thread forms a loop on the hook (Pic. 6)
2 3
5 6
1
4

P a g e | 46
• Arrange the tail of the magic ring neatly behind the loop (Pic. 10)
• Grab the magic ring between the fingers of your non-hook holding hand and insert the hook
through the ring (Pic. 11)
• Grab the thread of yarn with the hook (Pic. 12) and drag it back through the ring – you should now
have two loops on your hook (Pic. 13)
• With the loop on the hook, grab the thread of yarn over your hook (Pic. 7) and drag it back through
the loop on your hook (Pic. 8)
• You will now have created the knot that completes the magic ring. You can remove the magic ring
from around your fingers (Pic. 9)
7 8 9
10 11 12
13

P a g e | 47
• With two loops now on your hook, yarn over again (Pic. 14) and pull the yarn through both loops
at once – you will now have completed the first single crochet in your magic ring (Pic. 15)
• Continue crocheting single crochet stitches into the magic ring until you have the number called
for by the pattern, which is most commonly 6, as in Pic. 16
• Close the magic ring by grabbing the ring and holding tight with one hand and pulling on the tail
with the other hand until the ring disappears and turns into a little circle (Pic. 17)
• Now is where would start your second round by crocheting into the stitch marked with the number
6 in Pic. 18. From this point you will crochet around in a continuous spiral, following the specific
instructions in your pattern.
14 15 16
17 18

P a g e | 48
10. Decreasing (invisible decrease)
9. Increasing
Increasing is done by working two or more stitches into the same stitch. It can be used for any stitch,
but I will be exemplifying single crochet increases.
• Work your first single crochet as you would normally (Pic. 1)
• Insert your hook right next to the green highlighted stitch, into the same stitch you worked the
first single crochet into, and do another single crochet (Pic. 2)
1 2 3 4
The method most commonly used for decreasing in amigurumi is called the invisible decrease. It is
done by grabbing two or more stitches on the hook together before completing your new stitch
(effectively going from two stitches to one). To achieve the invisible effect, you will only grab the front
loops of the stitches you are crocheting together. (Pic. 1)
• Insert the hook through the front loop of the next stitch (Pic. 2)
• Insert the hook through the front loop of the second stitch (Pic. 3)
• Grab the yarn and pull it back through the first two loops on the hook (arrow in Pic. 3)
• Grab the yarn again and pull it through the two loops on the hook to complete the
decrease. (Pic 4)
1 2

P a g e | 49
11. The Slip stitch
12. Color changes
Many amigurumi include some degree of color changing throughout the project, and these changes,
especially when done for full rounds can be quite noticeable. While there isn’t really a way to make
them 100% seamless, this technique should help minimize the difference.
When your pattern calls for a color change, this color change always begins one stitch before. This
means that you attach color 2 half-way through your last stitch of color 1 – you begin the stitch in
color 1, grab color 2 and finish with color 2.
The slip stitch is the shortest stitch, that adds the least height to your work as it doesn’t have a pillar
(like the X part of the single crochet stitch). In my patterns, this stitch is used when doing color
changes, when joining rows or rounds occasionally, or to add a thin line of a different color on a toy
(usually in the eyes).
It begins the same way as a single crochet, but instead of yarning over a second time, you just complete
the stitch with the first yarn you grabbed.
• Insert your hook in the next stitch and grab the yarn with your hook as you would for a single
crochet (Pic. 1)
• Pull the yarn back through the stitch. You now have two loops on your hook (Pic. 2)
• Pull the first loop through the second loop to complete the slip stitch (Pic. 3)
• Start by inserting your hook
through the next stitch, grabbing
the yarn and pulling it back through
the stitch to form two loops on the
hook (same as the first half of a
single crochet stitch). (Pic. 1)
• Now wrap the new color yarn on
your hook and pull it back through
the two loops on your hook (Pic. 2)
1 2 3
1 2

P a g e | 50
13. Crocheting around a chain
Crocheting around a chain is useful when you want to work in a continuous spiral but want to obtain
a more oval or rectangular shape as opposed to the round you create when starting with a magic ring.
• To start, create a chain of the desired length. A shorter chain will create a rounder shape, a longer
chain will create a narrower ellipse. In this example, I begin by chaining 6. (Pic. 1)
• After you make your base chain, begin the first row normally, doing a single crochet in the second
chain from the hook. Continue doing SC stitches into every chain of the hook (in my example, 3
more SC), stopping before the last one (following my example, at this point you will have a total
of 4 SC stitches).
• In the last chain, do 3 single crochet stitches in one stitch. This will help you turn the work to
continue crocheting on the underside of the chain.
• You are now left with the new color yarn on your hook. You
could now continue crocheting normally, but we will take a
few more steps to make the color transition look smoother.
(Pic. 3)
• In the next stitch, do a slip stitch (Pic. 4)
• Finish crocheting the round following the instructions in
your pattern.
• When you reach the end of the round (Pic. 5), do one more
slip stitch into the first slip stich you did at the beginning of
the round to complete the round (Pic. 6). You can continue
crocheting normally after this.
4 5 6
3
1 2 3

P a g e | 51
The right side when working in rows
is determined by the position of the
tail of the beginning chain. When
looking at the correct side, the chain
will be on your left.
14. Identifying the “right side”
• Turn the work upside down, so that the single crochet stitches
you just created are facing down and continue working in the
underside of the base chain. Crochet in each loop on the
underside, stopping before the last one (in my example, this will
be 3 SC stitches) (Pic. 4)
• When you reach the last loop, do an increase into it (2 SC
stitches into 1 stitch) (Pic. 5)
• Crochet one more slip stitch into the first SC you did to close up
the round, but do not count this stitch. Place your stitch marker
into it and the first round is complete. From here on, you will
typically crochet in a continuous spiral, following your pattern.
The right side of your project is important because it will determine the
aspect your finished piece will have. When you work from a magic ring,
your project has the tendency to curl wrong side out as you add more
rounds, which is why at some point you must turn it right side out.
The right side when working in the round can be determined by:
1. The tail of the magic ring must be on the inside of your project.
2. The right side of your project will show the neat X pattern
when working in single crochet.
3. When your project is right side out, you will be working
clockwise around your project.
5 6 7
4

P a g e | 52
15. The loop stitch
The loop stitch is useful when trying to create fur or hair. After doing the loop stitches, you can cut
them and then brush them to make it look like hair or fur.
Since it’s easier to show than tell, I have uploaded a quick video showing the method.

c012f31d-c4f2-40a6-b0cb-9235b2784633.pdf

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