This document provides instructions for crocheting a Sadness doll from the movie Inside Out. It includes materials needed, instructions for making the body parts like legs, arms, head and hair. The doll is made using blue, white and black yarn to resemble Sadness. Instructions are written in US terminology and include photos to illustrate the process. The goal is to create a plush doll that a child who identified with Sadness can enjoy.

1. My happy Sadness
doll
By Teresa Alvarez
April 2016

2. If there is anything you do not understand or there are any mistakes, please, send
me a message!
As you can see in the way I write, English is not my first language. So, you could
come across some mistakes and grammatical inconsistencies. Sorry and my
apologies!
Some months ago we watched Inside out at the cinema. My daughter loved the film.
Surprisingly, her favorite character wasn’t Joy; she said Joy was too happy, it didn’t
seem really happy, just anxious for being happy … My girl preferred Sadness, she
said that this emotion listened to other people and in her own way she was happy.
She asked me if I could crochet her a sadness doll. So, here we go!
ABOUT YARN:
I’ve used yarn from Katia: Alaska:
100grs./ 3 oz. ½
115 mts. / 126 yds
o 2 blue skeins
o 3 dark blue skeins: trousers, hair and feet’s soles
o 2 white skeins: jersey
o A bit of black: eyebrows and mouth.
o A bit of purple: glasses
ABOUT GAUGE:
It is not important, as far as you are consistent with your tension.
ABOUT HOOK:
It depends on the yarn. I’ve used a 4.5 mm hook.
Remember that when making amigurumis, stitches should be tight. Although with this
furry yarn, this is not a concern.
YOU WILL NEED:
• Yarn.
• Two blue eyes.
• Some white felt.
• Two doll joints: optional. They allow to move the arms.
• Stuffing.
• Tapestry needle.
• 2 bangles or pipe cleaners: glasses.
ABOUT CROCHET TERMS:
I’ve followed the US terminology.
Stitch: st
Chain: ch
Slip stitch: sl st

3. Single crochet: sc
FLO: Front Loop Only
BLO: Back Loop Only
Sc2tog: decreasing two sc (i.e., 2 st become 1)
Sc3tog: decreasing three sc (i.e., 3 st become 1)
GLASSES
Using purple
I have used two bangles: take one bangle and sc around it:
Then ch 1 and sc around the second bangle.
When finished, sl st on top of the 1ch and sl st in the first bangle.

4. TROUSERS
Using dark blue
We crochet the two trousers’ legs and then join them and finish the trousers.
First trousers’ leg
The legs have this shape:
There is an increase in every round. To obtain the desired shape, I always placed the
increase between the two stitches of the increase of the previous round:
Round x: vv (increase)
Round x+1: vv place increase where the arrows points
Chain 20, sl st in 1st
st.
Round 1,…,9: 1increase and sc in remaining sts (21, 22, 23, …, 29)
Round 10: one increase and sc in part of the round … This round finished at the
opposite side of the increases, i.e., we do not work all the round; this way we
leave the leg prepared to be joined with the other leg.
Fasten off
Second trousers’ leg
The 2nd
leg is worked in the same way, but we do not fasten off:
1st
leg 2nd
leg
Trousers’ body
The 10th
round of the second leg is finished here :

5. Round 1: ch 2 and next sc is crocheted in the other leg, in the st following the one we
finished. Sc in every st across, placing one increase where the picture shows.
Final count of stitches: 2+30+1+2+30+1+2= 66
2: sc in the 2 chains
30: number of stitches of the leg
1: increase
1st
round finishes when both sides of the 2 chains is worked.

6. Round 2,,3,4: sc in every st across and two increases at the sides (68, 70, 72sts)
Round 5-11: sc in every st across (72sts)
Fasten off.

7. Feet & Legs
Using dark blue and light blue
We crochet the feet beginning with dark blue to give the effect of the shoes, then, we
change to light blue.
We work the two feet and legs and then they are joined as the trousers’ legs.
1st
Foot and leg
Using dark blue.
Round 1: magic ring, 6 sc (alternatively, 2 ch and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook).
Round 2: [sc, 2sc, 2sc] repeat 2 times (10 sts)
Round 3: [sc sc sc 3sc 3sc] repeat 2 times (18 sts)
Round 4: change to light blue, work in BLO sc in next 9sts, change to dark blue and
work in both loops: sc, hdc, hdc4tog, hdc, change to light blue and work in
BLO in next 2 sts.
Round 5: work in both loops and in light blue. Sc in next 10 sts, sc2tog, sc in next
2sts. (13 sts)
Round 6, 7: two increases at the sides. (15, 17 sts)
Round 8-13: sc in every st across (17sts)
Round 14-18: one increase at each round placed randomly (18, 19, 20, 21 sts)
Round 19-20: sc in every st across (21sts)
Round 21: sc until you reach , then fasten off.
2nd
Foot and leg
Work as 1st
foot. Finish round 21 at the opposite side of 1st
foot and do not fasten off.

8. Joining legs
We work this part as for the trousers, but instead of working 2ch we work 4 ch.
Round 1: 4ch, sc in all the sts of the other leg, work 4sc on the 4 ch, work 21 sc and
finally 4sc on the other side of the 4ch (21+21+4+4=50sts)
Round 2: 4 increases and sc in remaining sts (54sts)
Round 3: [2sc, sc in 4sts] repeat 9 times (63sts)
Round 4: [2sc, sc in 6sts] repeat 9 times (72sts)
Round 5-12: sc in every st across (72 sts)
Fasten off.
Stuff.

9. Place legs inside the trousers and sew both loops of the legs to the inner loop of the
trousers:
EYES
I have used two plastic blue eyes and some white felt:

10. HANDS and ARMS (make 2)
HANDS
Using light blue
Round 1: magic ring, 6 sc (alternatively, 2 ch and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook).
Round 2: [2sc, sc] repeat 3 times (9sts)
Round 3: [2sc, sc, sc] repeat 3 times (12sts)
Round 4: sc in every st across (12 sts)
Round 5, 6: one increase (13, 14 sts)
Round 7: bobble (5dc together), sc in 13 sts (14sts)
Round 8-10: sc in every st (14sts)
ARMS
Using white
Working in BLO
I wanted the arms to be movable, so I placed one doll joint inside each of them, and
then connect them with the body. Another option is to sew them to the body
directly.
Approximately, the joint is placed at round 5 of the arm and 4th
-5th
round of body.
Round 1: magic ring, 6 sc (alternatively, 2 ch and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook).
Round 2: 2sc in every st (12 sts)
Round 3: [2sc, sc] repeat 6 times (18 sts)
Round 4-17: sc (18 sts)

11. Round 18-21: one decrease, sc in remaining sts (17, 16, 15, 14 sts)
Round 22-23: sc in every st and sl st in next 2 sts.
Fasten off
Place joint and stuff.
CUFF
Using white
Ch 4, sc in 2nd
ch from hk and in remaining sts, ch 1, turn
Working in BLO:
Row 1-13: sc in every st, ch 1, turn.
Fasten off
Sew the two narrow sides together.
Finishing the arms
Sew arm to hand and then sew cuff to arm:

14. HEAD
Using light blue
Round 1: magic ring, 6 sc (alternatively, 2 ch and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook).
Round 2: 2sc in next 6 st, (12 sts)
Round 3: [2sc in next st, sc in next 1st] repeat 6 times (18st)
Round 4: [2sc in next st, sc in next 2st] repeat 6 times (24st)
Round 5: [2sc in next st, sc in next 3st] repeat 6 times (30st)
Round 6: [2sc in next st, sc in next 4st] repeat 6 times (36st)
Round 7: [2sc in next st, sc in next 5st] repeat 6 times (42st)
Round 8: [2sc in next st, sc in next 6st] repeat 6 times (48st)
Round 9: [2sc in next st, sc in next 7st] repeat 6 times (54st)
Round 10: [2sc in next st, sc in next 8st] repeat 6 times (60st)
Round 11: [2sc in next st, sc in next 9st] repeat 6 times (66st)
Round 12: [2sc in next st, sc in next 10st] repeat 6 times (72st)
Round 13: [2sc in next st, sc in next 11st] repeat 6 times (78st)
Round 14-27: sc (78sts)
Round 28: nose: bobble (6trebble together), sc in 77sts (78sts)
Round 29-32: sc (78 sts) (14 rounds)
Round 33: [sc2tog, sc in next 11st] repeat 6 times (72st)
Round 34: [sc2tog, sc in next 10st] repeat 6 times (66st)

15. Round 35: [sc2tog, sc in next 9st] repeat 6 times (60st)
Round 36: [sc2tog, sc in next 8st] repeat 6 times (54st)
Round 37: [sc2tog, sc in next 7st] repeat 6 times (48st)
Do not fasten off, just change to white: pullover and follow to next section.
PULLOVER:
BODY
Change to white:
And work in BLO
Round 1: [2sc in next st, sc in next 7st] repeat 6 times (54st)
Round 2: [2sc in next st, sc in next 8st] repeat 6 times (60st)
Round 3: [2sc in next st, sc in next 9st] repeat 6 times (66st)
Round 4: [2sc in next st, sc in next 10st] repeat 6 times (72st)
Round 5-25 (21 rounds): sc (72sts)
Fasten off
Join arms to body as explained in the arms section.
Pullover’s collar
I wanted to imitate, to mimic the knit effect of collars and cuffs. For the sleeves’ cuff I
opted for the classic sc worked on the back loop only. But the collar and the bottom
part of the pullover are bigger and I was looking for a ribbing effect in a different way.
I found that there is a ribbed half dc stitch, very easy and with spectacular results.
There is a tutorial here:
http://littlemonkeyscrochet.com/tutorial-ribbed-half-double-crochet-stitch-ribhdc/
chain 10 and Follow the tutorial for 48 rounds.
Sew the collar to the neck’s hemline. See photos:

16. For sewing the pullover’s neck, place the ribbed neck/collar closer to the head, as in
photo:
Sew or sl st the collat to the neck.
Finally sew together the narrow sides and turn down the collar.
Ribbed bottom
Using white
Ch 7, and Follow the tutorial for 48 rounds.

17. Sew it to the pullover.
COMMENT: at this point I recommend to place eyes and embroider the mouth and
eyelashes. This way when you are attaching the hair you can go for the final
look. If you are not too sure about the eyes location, do not place the
fasteners.
Hair’s base/cap
Using dark blue
I find easier to attach the hairs if I work the base in BLO.
So, working in BLO.
Round 1: magic ring, 6 sc (alternatively, 2 ch and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook).
Round 2: 2sc in next 6 st, (12 sts)
Round 3: [2sc in next st, sc in next 1st] repeat 6 times (18st)
Round 4: [2sc in next st, sc in next 2st] repeat 6 times (24st)
Round 5: [2sc in next st, sc in next 3st] repeat 6 times (30st)
Round 6: [2sc in next st, sc in next 4st] repeat 6 times (36st)
Round 7: [2sc in next st, sc in next 5st] repeat 6 times (42st)
Round 8: [2sc in next st, sc in next 6st] repeat 6 times (48st)
Round 9: [2sc in next st, sc in next 7st] repeat 6 times (54st)
Round 10: [2sc in next st, sc in next 8st] repeat 6 times (60st)
Round 11: [2sc in next st, sc in next 9st] repeat 6 times (66st)
Round 12: [2sc in next st, sc in next 10st] repeat 6 times (72st)
Round 13,14: sc (72sts)
We shape the cap slightly to copy the real one … The parts with hdc will go to the
back of the head.
Round 15: 20 sc, 52 hdc
Round 16: 24 sc, 48 hdc
Round 17: 28 sc, 44 hdc
Round 18: 32 sc, 40 hdc
Round 19: 36 sc, 36 hdc
Fasten off and sew it to head. I took as reference the 1st
head’s round with 78 sts. Be
careful, place the hdc to the back: nose is a good reference to center the cap.

18. COMMENT: at this point I recommend to place eyes and embroider the mouth and
eyelashes. This way when you are attaching the hair you can go for the final
look. If you are not too sure about the eyes location, do not place the
fasteners.
HAIR
There are many tutorials out there for making hair. These are two places I like.
https://es.pinterest.com/pin/383650461988578257/
http://www.idiotsguides.com/hobbies-and-crafts/crochet/making-hair-for-your-
amigurumi/
The hair is attached as a fringe to the cap. I spent 1 skein with this part.
I cut strands of different lengths and placed them around ALL the cap. I also basted
some yellow yarn in some places where I needed to have hair in a certain
direction/line to serve me as a guide.

22. Finishing touches
Once all the hair is in place. Fix eyes, embroider mouth and eyelashes and sew
glasses to head.
Sew the body to the trousers and we are almost done ….
Cut the hair to the desired length.
Our happy Sadness doll is ready for playing!
Final size: 50-55 cm.