1. Truffles
[truhf-uh l, troo-fuh l]
What is a truffle? Tartufi or trifole, as
they are known in Italian, are small hypogeous (grown
underground) fungi ranging from the size of a walnut
to a softball. Truffles, unlike most other mushrooms,
do not have stems or spores so they rely solely on
fungivores and other animals alike to spread their
spores through digestion and secretion.
Where are truffles found? Truffles can be found on nearly every continent, but some of the
most prized truffles are found in Italy!
Italian White Truffles (Tuber magnatum)
The white truffles of Alba in Italy’s Piedmont region are by far the most prized and beloved of all
truffles worldwide. They are often found at the foot of oak trees and can grow as large as 12 cm (5in) in
diameter and 500g (1lb). The flesh is a pale creamy brown color with white veining. Sometimes one
might find these white truffles with a deep burgundy coloring on the flesh; this is healthy and solely due
to oxidization. Many say these white truffles have the aroma of shallots, onions, garlic and other
aromatic alliums; Chef Alex Guarneschelli of NYC’s Butter was quoted by TIME saying, “The smell is
disconcerting. It conjures up images of a locker room. But the aroma deceptively conceals their
complex yet delicate taste. They are sublime.” In recent years, these precious fungi have become more
expensive and harder to find. One might think, with so many advances in science, why can’t we simply
clone these truffles and grow them elsewhere? It has been tried to no avail; the original is simply the
best.
Black Winter Truffles (Tuber melanosporum)
These black truffles are mainly found in the southeastern part of Umbria. Norcia, located in the
province of Perugia, produces the largest quantity of black truffles throughout Umbria and all of Italy.
These truffles are a blackish, brown color with reddish veins, often being found in hilly and
mountainous areas. Much like the more durable burgundy truffles, black winter truffles are often found
living in symbiosis with oak or hazelnut trees, giving them a nuttier, earthy flavor than one would find in
the highly prized white truffles of Alba.
Burgundy Truffles (Tuber uncinatum)
Burgundy truffles are the most durable and economic of
Umbrian truffles. They are harvested throughout the
autumn from September until December. When ripe, they
have a rough, warty black skin. The flesh of these truffles
is burgundy with white veining. These truffles tend to
have a much longer shelf life and make good for canning
as well as using fresh for many different applications.
2. When are truffles in season? Truffle season falls between September and May, depending on
the type of truffles and where they are coming from.
How are truffles harvested? Originally, truffle farmers would find their truffles with the
assistance of female pigs. Truffles are said to give off the scent of the male pig sex attractant, therefore making
for some very eager female swine. Unfortunately, truffle farmers were
finding that often the pigs were simply eating the truffles instead of only
locating them. In more recent times, dogs have been trained to located
the truffles and trade them for a treat.
Whyare truffles so costly? There are many different
countries where “false truffles” of poor quality are being sold and
marketed at the same cost as “true truffles.” While they are both fungi,
their physical structure, aroma, taste and quality are completely different. China has a stronghold on the “false
truffle” market. Chef’s will pay several thousand dollars for just a pound of the beloved white truffles from
Alba, just to ensure they are getting the real deal. According to CNN Travel, Hong Kong Master of Wine
Jeannie Cho Lee spent €105,000 on a truffles
weighing in at 900g at the 12 Edition of the
World Wide Truffle of Alba Auction.
Fun and Interesting
Truffle Facts
The Ancient Greeks believed truffles
were created when lightning hit damp
soil
The Collins family of Wiltshire held the
only Royal warrant to hunt for truffles in
the UK until 1930
France is the largest producer of truffles, harvesting up to 30 tons per year. At the end of the 19th
century, production was just over 1000 tons
A fabled aphrodisiac, the black truffle’s penetrating aroma led the Epicureans to liken the scent to that of
tousled sheets of a brothel bed. In the Middle Ages, monks were prohibited from eating truffles for fear
they would forget their calling