8. TURKS
Turks would intentionally singe their skin with fire to
achieve exfoliation of the skin
9. GREEKS AND
ROMANS
Used soured milk,
fermented grape juice, and
lemon extract to clarify
their skin
10. GYPSIES
The first group to use
phenol for deep chemical
peels, and they are known
to have passed secret
chemical peel recipes
between villages and
generations
11. Today!!!
Chemical Peels are the THIRD most commonly performed
noninvasive cosmetic procedure in United States with over
1,300,000 procedures performed in 2016 alone
American Society of Plastic Surgeons
13. How do Peels
Act?
Controlled keratocoagulation and denaturation of dermal and
epidermal proteins
Release of proinflammatory cytokines and chemokines
Targeted inflammation activates normal healing signal
cascade
Stimulation, development and deposition of new dermal collagen
and elastin, reorganization of structural scaffold proteins and
dermal connective tissue, and regeneration of new keratinocytes
Results in rejuvenation and thickening of the epidermis and an
increase in dermal volume
Subsequent exfoliation result in improvement in superficial and
medium-depth dyspigmentation
28. LACTIC ACID
Comparable efficacy with Glycolic acid
Low pH Low concentration is required
Exfoliation after treatment occurs for several days
Re-epithelialization in 7-10 days
29. MANDELIC ACID
Simple phenolic alpha-hydroxy acid
Soluble in both water and polar organic solutions results in a more uniform
penetration through lipid-rich areas of skin
Results of mandelic acid peels are more subtle than that of superficial glycolic
acid peels
Side effects and subsequent downtime of mandelic acid are comparatively less
Frequent “touch ups” and shortened intervals between treatment sessions
Minimal desquamation
Re-epithelialization is often complete within 3 to 5 days.
30. GLYCOLIC ACID
Most commonly used alpha-hydroxyl acid
Available in various concentrations up to 70%
Needs application of water or weak buffer
(5% sodium bicarbonate) once desired depth
has been reached
31. AZELAIC ACID
Saturated dicarboxylic acid
Naturally found in rye, wheat and barley
20% topical preparation
Mainly used in acne and melasma
32. JESSNER’S SOLUTION
14% lactic acid, 14% salicylic acid, 14% resorcinol in ethanol
Provokes stratum corneum separation only
Can be used alone or in combination with TCA
Depth of peel is dependent on number of coats
Erythema powdery whitening of skin exfoliation lasting 8-10 days
Repeated monthly
33. PHENOLS
Direct toxicity to cell proteins, membranes and enzymatic degradation
88% conc. causes immediate coagulation of proteins upto upper reticular
dermis
45-55% conc. acts as keratolytic deeper penetration to mid reticular
dermis
Systemic effects include cardiotoxicity
Cardiac monitoring
Resuscitative equipment
35. SALICYLIC ACID
Beta-hydroxy acid
Keratolytic with high affinity for lipids preferentially
acts through pores
20-30% topical preparation
36. Indications
Comedonal and inflammatory acne
Early to moderate photo damage
Oily skin with enlarged pores
Rosacea
Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation
Melasma
37. Does not need neutralization
No concerns about timings or over peeling
Preferred in Fitzpatrick skin type V and VI
Systemic toxicity rare (Salicylism)
38. TRICHLOROACETIC ACID
Analogue of acetic acid
Found naturally as hygroscopic crystals
Gold standard for chemical peels for many years
@ conc. 10-25% Superficial peel
@ conc. 30% Medium depth peel
@ conc. >30% not recommended, unpredictable results
39. Destructive due to low pH
Rapidly neutralized
Coagulation of skin proteins
Clinical end point of treatment is frosting
Frosting is due to denaturation of proteins
Replaced by erythema
40.
41. BAKER–GORDON
FORMULA
88% phenol , croton oil, hexachlorophene and
distilled water
Croton oil is a vesicant derived from the seed
of the Croton tiglium
plant that promotes deeper penetration and
absorption of phenol
Hexachlorophene is a liquid soap that
increases
surface tension, acts as an emulsifier and
retards
phenol penetration
42. COMBINATION PEELS
70% Glycolic acid un buffered peel followed by 35% TCA
Combined Jessner’s solution (1-4 coats) and 35%TCA
44. SKIN REJUVENATION
Superficial and medium depth peels
Superficial peels temporary ‘refreshed ’ look
Medium depth improve fine lines,
wrinkles, pigmentation
45. PHOTODAMAGED
SKIN
Medium depth peels like TCA and Jessner’s
solution are most popular
Superficial peels not effective for solar lentigines,
wrinkles
47. DYSCHROMIAS
Ephelides
Lentigines
Flat seborrhoeic keratoses
Melasma
Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation
Repeated sessions are needed
5-6 peels at 2-3 week intervals
48.
49. WRINKLES AND SCARS
Medium depth and deep chemical peels
Replaced by laser technology
50. CONTRAINDICATIONS
Absolute
Allergy to peeling solution/ neutralizing
agent
Patients with unrealistic expectations
Immunosuppression
Relative
Use of oral isotretinoin, OCPs, Tetracyclines
Pregnancy or lactation
Herpes labialis
Plain Warts or dermatitis
Radiotherapy irradiated skin/ Photosensitivity
History of scar or keloid formation
52. TEST-SPOT TESTING
Application of the medium-depth or deep-peeling agent to a small area of skin
Common areas: lateral temple, anterior hairline and pre-auricular region
• Healing time
• Pigmentary response
• Post peel
complications
• Delay of treatment
53. PRE-PEEL PROCEDURE
Counselling
Identify concerns
Educate regarding peeling options
Potential side effects, healing time,
complications
Skin type
Degree of photodamage
Sebaceous quality of skin
Look for inflammatory dermatosis
Exclude skin conditions associated with
koebnerization
57. CONSENT & PHOTO DOCUMENTATION
Whole procedure
After care
Informed consent
Before and after peel photos
Sun avoidance for 14 days after peel
62. TECHNIQUE
Remove make up; wash face
Supine at 45 degrees
Topical anesthesia can be used medium depth
peels
Sedation and analgesia for deep peels
Degreasing for uniform penetration
63. Vaseline applied to sensitive areas
Cotton tipped applicators; sponge applicators; gauze pads; brush
Performed craniocaudally starting from Forehead, proceeding inferiorly
Applied clockwise or anticlockwise from forehead to chin and back
Eyelids and periocular areas last
Peeling chemical applied to every single anesthetic unit
64. COSMETIC SUBNITS
Solid blue lines
Forehead
Peri-orbital area
Nose
Cheeks
Mentum
Red dots
Danger areas of face
65.
66. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Always check label by yourself
Write down the date of prepared formula on the bottle
Always shake or tilt the bottle before use
Always ask patient to close eyes before the procedure
Watch for tears, dry immediately, tears running down can
create streak of peeling
Never pass open container over patient’s face
67. TIPS
Rubbing using gauze is better than painting
Apply to small dark areas first then to the whole skin
Continue to the hairline
Continue for 1cm below the hairline and neck (feathering)
For treating wrinkles around eyes, skin is stretched
During the peeling process skin is cooled with a fan continuously
68. GLYCOLIC ACID
Conc. Range from 15% to 70%
Concentration of solution and contact time
determines results
69. Start with 15-
30% and 3-5
min
Skin primed;
degreased with
alcohol
Watch for
Erythema,
Epidermolysis
Neutralized
End point
depends upon
desired results
Neutralized with
Sodium
bicarbonate
solution
Wash with cold
Water Bland
emollient
Sunscreen
Performed at
3-4 weekly
70.
71. JESSNER’S SOLUTION
No
Neutralizati
on
washed with
Water
Moisturizer
Multiple
coats
white
Frosting
from tissue
coagulation
Powdery
whitening
because of
precipitation
of chemicals
Faint
erythema
Degreasing
Application
done evenly
72. SALICYLIC ACID
20-30% Sol
applied
2nd coat to
papaules
and
pustules
Tingling
and
burning
sensation
White frost of
crystalline
precipitation
of Salicylic
acid
After 3-5
min Face
washed
Moisturizer
Repeated
at 2-3
week
interval
73. TRICHLOROACETIC ACID
TCA rubbed
into skin with
4x4cm guaze
Even redness
or Frost
appear
Wait at least
60s for froth to
appear before
another coat
Light frost
Level 1
Superficial
epidermal Peel
Light frost with
erythema
Level 2
Full Epidermal
Peel
Solid frost/
fridge white
Papillary Level
3
dermal peel
Face washed with
water after reaching
desired amount
Emollients
74.
75.
76. POST PEEL
Look and feel tight
Look terrible for 7-10 days after a medium depth peel
During the first 2 days skin is slightly pink
During day 3 and 4 skin darkens
By day 5 skin starts peeling in sheets
Erythema may last upto 2 weeks
80. POST-PEEL CARE
Superficial chemical peel
No special care required
Bland emollient 2-4 times/day for 1-2 days
When skin appears normal patient can restart skin care
81. POST-PEEL CARE
Medium depth and Deep chemical peel
Necrotic, exfoliated skin, erythema and edema
Measures to keep necrotic skin layer in place
Bland emollient or ointment dabbed
Keep skin moist; mild soap
Avoid picking, scratching or rubbing to prevent premature peeling
Avoid spraying water directly to the face
For exudative areas ; acetic acid compresses or antibiotic
ointment
Re-epithelization in 5-7 days
82. RE-PEELING
Very superficial peels once a week
Superficial peels once every 2 weeks
Medium depth peels once every 3-4 weeks
Never repeat a peel in patients who have sensitivity or
persistent erythema from a previous peel
86. Reactivation of herpes simplex
Pain and erosions (no blisters)
Prophylactic antiviral 24 hours before to
5 days after peel in medium depth peels
Active lesions need treatment
87. ERYTHEMA
• Normally fades in 7 days
• Abnormal if >30 days in SCP
and >60 days in MDCP
• Seen in patients of rosacea
• Those on topical tretinoin
• Before/ after peel persistent
localized erythema
impending scar
88. CHEMICAL BURNS
• Can occur if increased
contact time
• Localized
• Heal with post
inflammatory
hyperpigmentation
89. MILIA
• Seen during healing phase
• Due to occlusive effects of
the ointment used after
treatment
• Seen 3 weeks after peeling
• Treat by gentle scrubbing or
tretinoin cream
90. ACNEFORM ERUPTIONS
• During the healing phase
post peel
• Tender, red follicular
papules
• Respond to topical acne
medication
• Resolve in 1-2 weeks
92. PREMATURE
PEELING
• Medium depth and deep chemical
peels
• Early removal of necrotic layer
• Fragile healing skin may not re-
epithialize
• Persistent erythema post peel
pigmentation/ scarring
• Treat with topical antibiotic
ointment
• Apply vaseline until re-
epithelialization
• Avoid picking crusts
94. POST-INFLAMMATORY
HYPOPIGMENTATION
Due to melanocyte destruction in both
hair follicles and reticular dermis
Phenol peels
May last 2-3 months
Can be permanent
Cosmetic camouflage
95. SCARRING
At risk
Exaggerated inflammatory response
History of poor/delayed wound healing
Tendency of keloid/hypertrophic scar
Deep peels
Inadequate time between peels
Infection post peel
On oral isotretinoin 6 months before peel
Focal persistent erythema
Indurated erythematous patches/plaques
96. SYSTEMIC TOXICITY
Resorcinol, salicylic acid, phenol applied on skin can be absorbed systemically
Phenol
Tachycardia followed by arrhythmias
Laryngeal edema
Toxic shock syndrome
Resorcinol
Pallor, cold sweating, tremors, collapse
Anti thyroid activity
109. REFRENCES
Rook's Textbook of Dermatology, 9th Edition
Christopher Griffiths (Editor), Jonathan Barker (Editor), Tanya Bleiker (Editor),
Robert Chalmers (Editor), Daniel Creamer (Editor)
Connor A, Lowe P, Shumack S. Chemical peels: A review of current practice.
Australasian Journal of Dermatology (2018) 59, 171–181
Illustrated Guide to Chemical Peels: Basics - Indications - Uses (Aesthetic Methods for
Skin Rejuvenation) by Mark G. Rubin (2014)
Soleymani T, Lanoue J, Rahman Z. A Practical Approach to Chemical Peels: A Review
of Fundamentals and Step-by-step Algorithmic Protocol for Treatment. J Clin Aesthet
Dermatol. 2018;11(8):21–28.