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How to Make Inexpensive, Warm Outdoor Shelters
(NOTE: These same ideas apply for your dog’s outdoor “house”)
Large	Styrofoam	coolers	make	great	outdoor	cat	
shelters.		
	
WHERE	TO	GET	THEM:	Veterinarians,	hospitals,	fish	
markets,	pet	stores	and	even	grocery	stores	may	be	glad	
to	donate	a	large	cooler.	Some	farm	stores	sell	extra	large	
coolers	manufactured	for	deer	meat	storage.	If	the	
coolers	are	less	than	1	½	inches	thick,	you	should	cover	
the	box	with	layers	of	bubble	wrap	or	insulation.	When	
using	insulation	be	certain	that	it	is	the	kind	that	has	
paper	on	both	sides,	and	make	sure	none	of	the	fibers	are	
exposed	when	your	shelter	is	completed	(you	can	duct	
tape	over	any	exposed	areas	near	the	door	hole).		
	
FIRST:	turn	cooler	upside	down	and	cut	an	entrance	hole	in	the	side.	Place	entrance	hole	1-2	inches	
above	the	line	where	the	lid	meets	the	cooler	body	and	place	it	at	one	end	of	the	longer	side	of	the	cooler.		
Then	simply	glue	the	cooler	lid	shut.		Glue	Styrofoam	together	using	‘Liquid	Nails’	or	foam	insulation	
product	“Great	Stuff.”	Reinforce	seam	with	duct	tape.	Two	entrance	holes	are	recommended	only	if	the	
shelter	is	in	an	area	where	predators	may	pose	a	threat	to	the	cats.	The	second	door	is	an	escape	hatch	
for	your	feline	friend.		
	
SECOND:	wrap	the	shelter	(think	Christmas	present!)	with	the	thickest	black	plastic	sheeting	you	can	
find.	You	can	purchase	this	at	any	home	improvement	or	garden	store.	Tape	all	seams	with	duct	tape	or	
other	tape	that	withstands	cold	temps	and	water.	It’s	best	to	be	generous	with	your	duct	tape,	and	‘T’	the	
ends,	because	duct	tape	does	lose	some	of	its	adhesive	quality	in	the	wet	and	cold.	Black	Scotch	brand	
tape	seems	to	work	better	in	the	cold	than	the	standard	gray.	After	wrapping,	locate	your	door	hole	and	
cut	a	hole	in	the	plastic	using	a	box	cutter,	then	tape	all	around	the	door.	
	
THIRD:	Orient	the	shelter	to	block	the	entrance(s)	from	receiving	direct	wind	and	rain/snow!	Having	the	
open	entrance	under	a	cover	and	facing	a	wall	will	protect	it	from	wind	and	moisture.	If	your	winter	
shelter	is	exposed	to	the	elements	it	is	best	to	put	a	piece	of	plywood	over	the	top	of	the	shelter	as	well	as	
another	piece	of	wood	(or	similar	material)	put	at	a	slant	over	the	doorway.		You	may	also	need	to	place	
the	shelter	on	a	pallet.		It	is	very	important	to	do	what	you	can	to	keep	moisture	OUT.		
	
LASTLY:	Do	NOT	use	blankets,	towels,	etc.	inside	an	outdoor	shelter!	The	inside	will	be	exposed	to	
moisture,	so	the	cats	themselves	and	any	fabric	will	actually	freeze	when	temperatures	drop.	DRY	
STRAW	makes	great	stuffing	inside	the	shelter.	This	is	true	for	outdoor	dogs	and	cats.	Please	make	sure	
the	house	is	full	of	clean,	dry	straw	every	year!	Check	your	shelter	often	to	ensure	it	is	staying	dry.	
	
IDEAS	FOR	SUCCESS:	When	you	first	put	the	shelter	out,	put	some	catnip	inside!	In	windy	areas,	you	may	
need	to	weigh	down	the	shelter	with	bricks	or	something	similar.	
	
DON’T	FORGET:	Always	get	permission	from	property	owner	before	placing	a	shelter	
on	property	other	than	your	own.	It’s	also	important	to	make	a	little	laminated	sign	that	
says	something	like:	“This	shelter	is	part	of	a	humane	Trap,	Neuter,	Return	program	for	
feral	(stray)	cats,	please	do	not	remove.	If	you	have	questions,	please	call…”	if	necessary.

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How to make a winter house

  • 1. How to Make Inexpensive, Warm Outdoor Shelters (NOTE: These same ideas apply for your dog’s outdoor “house”) Large Styrofoam coolers make great outdoor cat shelters. WHERE TO GET THEM: Veterinarians, hospitals, fish markets, pet stores and even grocery stores may be glad to donate a large cooler. Some farm stores sell extra large coolers manufactured for deer meat storage. If the coolers are less than 1 ½ inches thick, you should cover the box with layers of bubble wrap or insulation. When using insulation be certain that it is the kind that has paper on both sides, and make sure none of the fibers are exposed when your shelter is completed (you can duct tape over any exposed areas near the door hole). FIRST: turn cooler upside down and cut an entrance hole in the side. Place entrance hole 1-2 inches above the line where the lid meets the cooler body and place it at one end of the longer side of the cooler. Then simply glue the cooler lid shut. Glue Styrofoam together using ‘Liquid Nails’ or foam insulation product “Great Stuff.” Reinforce seam with duct tape. Two entrance holes are recommended only if the shelter is in an area where predators may pose a threat to the cats. The second door is an escape hatch for your feline friend. SECOND: wrap the shelter (think Christmas present!) with the thickest black plastic sheeting you can find. You can purchase this at any home improvement or garden store. Tape all seams with duct tape or other tape that withstands cold temps and water. It’s best to be generous with your duct tape, and ‘T’ the ends, because duct tape does lose some of its adhesive quality in the wet and cold. Black Scotch brand tape seems to work better in the cold than the standard gray. After wrapping, locate your door hole and cut a hole in the plastic using a box cutter, then tape all around the door. THIRD: Orient the shelter to block the entrance(s) from receiving direct wind and rain/snow! Having the open entrance under a cover and facing a wall will protect it from wind and moisture. If your winter shelter is exposed to the elements it is best to put a piece of plywood over the top of the shelter as well as another piece of wood (or similar material) put at a slant over the doorway. You may also need to place the shelter on a pallet. It is very important to do what you can to keep moisture OUT. LASTLY: Do NOT use blankets, towels, etc. inside an outdoor shelter! The inside will be exposed to moisture, so the cats themselves and any fabric will actually freeze when temperatures drop. DRY STRAW makes great stuffing inside the shelter. This is true for outdoor dogs and cats. Please make sure the house is full of clean, dry straw every year! Check your shelter often to ensure it is staying dry. IDEAS FOR SUCCESS: When you first put the shelter out, put some catnip inside! In windy areas, you may need to weigh down the shelter with bricks or something similar. DON’T FORGET: Always get permission from property owner before placing a shelter on property other than your own. It’s also important to make a little laminated sign that says something like: “This shelter is part of a humane Trap, Neuter, Return program for feral (stray) cats, please do not remove. If you have questions, please call…” if necessary.