1. 96|Harper’s BAZAAR|July-August 2014 July-August 2014|Harper’s BAZAAR|97
georgedipin
LifeYour
he Gulf’s finest culinary
experiences have long taken place
behind the walls of private
homes, often requiring an
invitation to sumptuous dinners,
tea parties and wedding
receptions. Yet, unlike the cuisine
of the Levant, the Gulf’s culinary traditions have
remained something of a mystery to those outside the
region. In an age of celebrity chefs and Michelin-star
restaurants, the art of Khaleeji cooking continues to be
passed down from mother to daughter in kitchens across
the Gulf. Despite this, a culinary movement is taking
shape thanks to a new generation of women who are not
only publishing family recipes in English, but exploring
dishes from across the region that are giving rise to new
variations on traditional cuisine.
At an elegant dinner party held in a modern
mashrabiya-clad villa in the Saudi Arabian port city of
Jeddah, the evening’s chic hostess, dressed in a floor
length Marni gown cinched at the waist with an Art
Deco belt, serves up mouthwatering drinks such as the
Golden Dream, a delicious concoction made with
mandarin juice, peach, honey, saffron and milk. This is
followed by an artfully arranged buffet of traditional
Saudi dishes that come with an unexpected twist. Among
the intriguing offerings is matazeez, a Saudi-style whole-
wheat round ravioli commonly cooked in a fragrant
tomato sauce with lamb and vegetables. “This dish is
originally from Qassim in central Arabia, but I wanted to
give it a Jeddah twist. My version comes with salmon…
it’s healthier,” smiles the Saudi hostess, reflecting on her
many years living in Seattle where she was a regular at the
fish stalls of Pikes Market.
Oceans away from Jeddah, a culinary gathering of
a different kind is taking place at the airy Notting
Hill apartment of London-based Kuwaiti author,
photographer and home cook Sarah Al-Hamad. Seated
around her dining room table are a cosmopolitan group
of Westerners and Arabs from the Levant. They are here
to attend one of the author’s popular Arabian supper
clubs, where she introduces guests to Khaleeji cuisine,
while offering insight into the history and ingredients of
dishes. After serving a delicious three-course meal, Sarah
T
Traditional Gulf cuisine is to the fore this Ramdan as the region’s treasured recipes
and ingredients are given a fresh lease of life by a new generation of Arab chefs
Words by alex aubry
brings out a delicate aromatic cardamom and saffron
cake called igaili. “This is the Arabian version of sponge
cake and it’s usually accompanied by a cup of sweetened
red tea,” she explains to her guests as she slices up the
cake, revealing subtly flavoured layers infused with sweet
dates, walnuts and sesame seeds. “Some of the Gulf’s
most complex desserts have travelled across continents
and cultures, picking up new flavours along the way. In
the case of igaili, it came to the region by way of India,
which has had a huge influence on Khaleeji cuisine,” says
the author, who moved to London in 1997 to pursue her
MA in Middle Eastern Studies at the University of
London’s School of Oriental and African Studies.
In 2008 she broke new ground with the publication of
her first book, Cardamom and Lime: Recipes from the
Arabian Gulf, in which she set out to unravel the
mysteries of Gulf cooking for a global audience. “I think
food can open a window onto cultures
that are hard to penetrate, especially in
the context of the Gulf which has
remained somewhat insular. I wanted to
introduce the region through its cuisine
and hopefully start up a conversation
where one discovers more than they
expected,” explains Sarah, whose book
presents Khaleeji cuisine in a fresh,
accessible and visually appealing way
through a heady mix of
local specialties and
updated classics. “It was
important that each recipe come with easy-to-follow
directions and ingredients that can be found in local
markets,” adds the author, who was invited into the
kitchens of family and friends throughout the Gulf while
researching recipes. In the process she became the
unofficial historian and record keeper of a culinary
tradition that has been passed down orally through
generations for centuries.
In Bahrain, discerning hostesses are also increasingly
turning to a new generation of homegrown chefs to cater
their private parties and elegant dinners. Known for
creating unexpected variations on traditional dishes,
their names are closely kept secrets traded with discretion.
Amongst this group is Danah Al-Shafie, who together
with her husband launched a line of artisanal gelato in
2011 based on traditional Khaleeji flavours. “We were
interested in taking flavours that are instantly
recognisable to people who have grown up in
the Gulf and translating them into gelati,
which is perfect for Bahrain’s warm climate,”
says Danah, whose first creation was a chai
haleeb gelato, based on the spiced milky tea
consumed throughout the region. “It became
an instant best-seller, and we’ve since
developed other flavours using dates, saffron,
cardamom and almonds,” adds the chef,
whose signature Vimto sorbets have become
“a must for Ramadan.”
“The future of Khaleeji cooking is definitely
about experimentation as we move towards
more complex flavour combinations. There is
also a shift towards healthier desserts with
more refined tastes and less sugar,” observes
Paris-trained Bahraini pastry chef May
Mahmoud, who creates custom desserts for
private clients and events that often
incorporate traditional flavours such as Arabic
coffee, rose and pomegranate. “There’s a huge emphasis
on quality ingredients and as we move into summer
there’s a higher demand for lighter desserts, as well as
fruit based ones,” she says, seated amongst pyramids of
pistachio and chocolate dipped baklawa at Tariq Pastries,
a family business opened in 1983 with six locations
across the island of Bahrain.
“I try to combine the classic pastry techniques I learnt
at the Cordon Bleu with local ingredients,” explains May,
while walking through Manama’s
main market a few hours later in
search of faluda, a natural gelatin
substitute produced from a variety of
seaweed. “It’s an ingredient that’s been
somewhat overlooked in recent years,
and was used as a thickening agent in
traditional custards and puddings. It
came to the region from China via
trade with India and Iran, and can
even be used in a variety of dairy-free
and vegan recipes,” says May, holding
up a packet filled with what looks like
translucent strips of dried pasta. Back
at her kitchen, she carefully stirs
strands of faluda into a saucepan of hot water until they
dissolve. “This will form the basis for a rosewater panna
cotta combined with cream and mascarpone,” explains
the Bahraini chef, pointing out that it was an Arab
chemist named Ibin Sena who invented the method of
extracting rose water in the 10th century. “Since then it’s
been used in dishes throughout the region, as well as in
Europe where the French use it to flavour madeleines.”
Tucked away behind the bustling alleyways of
Muharraq’s historic Souq Al Qaiseriya, is one of Bahrain’s
hidden culinary gems. Housed in a 400-year-old
building, Saffron by Jena has become a chic destination
for its modern take on traditional Bahraini dishes. It is
the brainchild of Narise Kamber, the noted Bahraini chef
and founder of Jena Bakery, which has received accolades
for the desserts it creates for private events and weddings
across the island. “This project was very much a labour of
love and a collaboration with the Ministry of Culture.
We wanted to create something special where Bahrain’s
past and present come together through the food and
location,” recalls Narise, who grew up sampling delicacies
from around the world thanks to her diplomat father and
her mother, Dr. Dalal Al Sherouqi, the celebrated chef
and author of the Al Waleema series of cook books.
Working with Lebanese interior designer Jenan Habib,
Saffron’s historic interiors are transformed into a cool
calm oasis with exposed stone walls, updated
versions of traditional tin-topped tables and
wooden banquets covered in a cosy array of
patterned pillows. Vintage fans silently twirl
above the intimate space, which seats no more
than 20 people, while the glamorous voice of
1940s soprano Asmahan wafts up from an
antique radio. “During the renovations an old
madbass (date press) was uncovered, which
was traditionally used to make molasses. It is a
magical part of the building’s history that we
wanted to preserve,” says Narise, pointing to
the space’s most prominent feature, which can
be viewed through a glass-topped floor.
Instead of a menu, patrons are treated to
variations on the traditional Bahraini
breakfast, beginning with a welcome dish of
plump dates and tiny glasses of fresh yogurt.
This is followed by a succession of small dishes
served in pristine white bowls. They include
warm fluffy sweet breads called routi,
accompanied by cheese and homemade Bahraini
jam; balaleet, sweet saffron infused golden
vermicelli; delicious baked fava beans seasoned
with parsley and lemon; as well as a light creamy
tomato and egg mix. Over cups of frothy chai
haleeb served in traditional enamel mugs, Narise
explains the concept behind many of Saffron’s
offerings. “We wanted to expose a diverse
audience to dishes traditionally served in Bahraini
homes. But it was also important to create lighter
versions of those recipes to suit contemporary
tastes,” says the Bahraini chef, who serves patrons
refreshing shots of saffron rosewater, “a traditional
digestive,” at the end of each meal.
Saffron has since expanded to other “historic or
culturally significant sites throughout Bahrain”
and now has outposts at Bab Al Bahrain in Manama’s
historic souq, as well as the ancient Riffa Fort, which
offers a unique culinary experience together with
atmospheric views of Wadi Al Haniniya.
From sweeping vistas of the Gulf’s ancestral landscape
to the region’s innovative culinary vision of the future, it’s
certainly food for thought this holy month.
R e i n v e n t i n g
t h e G u l f ’ s C u l i n a r y
Tr a d i t i o n s
“ T h e f u t u r e o f
K h a l e e j i c o o k i n g
i s a b o u t
e x p e r i m e n t a t i o n
a n d c o m p l e x
f l a v o u r
c o m b i n a t i o n s ”
M a y M a h m o u d
“ S o m e o f t h e G u l f ’ s m o s t
c o m p l e x d e s s e r t s h a v e
t r a v e l l e d a cr o s s c o n t i n e n t s
a n d c u l t u r e s , p i ck i n g u p n e w
f l a v o u r s a l o n g t h e w a y ”
S a r a h A l - H a m a d
T
Sarah Al-Hamad (left) the
Kuwaiti author of cook
books including Cardamom
and Lime (above)
Sesame and
saffron infused
confections at
Saffron, Bahrain
(right). Saffron’s
outpost at
Bahrain’s historic
Riffa Fort with
panoramic
views of Wadi Al
Haniniya (below)
Artisan gelato entrepreneur
Danah Al-Shafie
Bahraini chef and
founder of Jena
Bakery, Narise
Kamber (above) and
her mini steak and
cheese buns (left)
Bahrani pastry chef
May Mahmoud
and her irresistable
baklawa (left)
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