There are several ways to fix an air conditioner that is not cooling effectively. Using a thermal detector can uncover air leaks around windows and doors that cause cool air loss. Replacing old, single pane windows with more efficient dual pane windows can also help retain cool air. Attic ventilation options like ridge vents or attic fans are important to remove hot air, and more attic insulation will further improve cooling. Installing a whole house fan can also significantly cool the home with a strong breeze.
My Air Conditioner Isn't Cooling My House - 5 Amazing Fixes
1. My Air Conditioner Is Not Cooling
My House - 5 Amazing Fixes
1) Use a Thermal Detector to Check for Leaks
Most homes lose 15% cool air due to leaks that usually can't be
seen with the naked eye. Thermal detectors are available on
Amazon for around $39 so you can recoup that cost in about two
months.
You will find certainly uncover 5-10 degree temperature swings
around the seams of your windows (assuming you haven't replaced
your windows with energy efficient windows). If you are low on
money, a heavy glazing or thick bead of caulk around all seams will
help, but you will still lose the cool air through the old pane glass or
cheap double pane windows.
A thermal detector will also uncover tiny holes, nooks, and crannies
where cool air is escaping. Oftentimes doors are a culprit and could
use new or more weather-stripping. Even electrical outlets that are
located on exterior walls should be examined.
2. 2) Windows Make a Huge Difference!
Naturally, after using your thermal detector you will see that more
times than not, your old windows are where you are losing the
majority of your cool air. The obvious fix is replacing your inefficient
windows with Low-E, argon filled, vinyl replacement windows.
Windows like these usually run around $180 so you should probably
change out 3-4 at a time.
If you can't afford new windows, look into interior storm windows.
They are unattractive but create a heat shield between your old
window and the new storm window that is mounted flush with your
interior wall. Heat is an insulator so this is a viable option especially if
the storm window is UV-coated.
If you glazed and caulked your old windows but the greenhouse
effect coming from your thin pane(s) is still allowing heat in, try a UV
film. Static cling or similar to a sticker, UV film reduces the influx of
heat by 30%.
3) Ridge Vent vs. Attic Fan
Ridge vents have gained popularity over the last ten years and
rightfully so. A ridge vent is a long metal vent that runs the length of
the roof at its peak. If there are multiple peaks in your roof there will
be multiple ridge vents. The reason ridge vents make sense is
because it removes the heat from your attic uniformly, efficiently,
and without power.
The drawback to ridge vents is that they do not remove enough
heat. To say a ridge vent doesn't move the heat quickly enough to
make a big impact is because the vents are simply too small.
Depending on the cut, vents are only 2"-4" in width. If you have a
very small home, ridge vets will do fine but for homes above 1,350
sq/ft, ridge vents are incapable of displacing the heat generated by
the sun on your roof.
The better alternative to ridge vents is incorporating multiple,
powered attic fans. Powered attic fans move a ton of air very quickly
and use very little power. Place three to four attic fans near the peak
of your roof and space them so they are equidistant from each
other. They are run by thermostat so when your attic reaches say
3. 110 degrees, they turn on and remove the heat until the
temperature is below the threshold.
A roofer would perform both of these installations and the difference
in cost would be negligible.
4) You Need More Attic Insulation!
Pairing ridge vents/attic fans with more attic insulation is never a bad
idea. Spec homes and older homes lack proper insulation in the
attic. You can rent a blower at Lowe's or Home Depot, buy 5-10
bales of insulation, and in one day dramatically cool off your home.
Insulation should be focused near the joint where the attic floor
meets the roof and also around air conditioning ductwork. Ideally
you shouldn't see any floor joists (assuming they aren't covered in
plywood) because insulation conceals them.
5) Enjoy The Breeze of a Whole House Fan
I first experienced a whole house fan, sometimes mistakenly referred
to as an attic fan, in my granddaddy and grandmother's home. They
opened two windows and when the fan was turned on, the whole
house fan would suck so much air from outside that you were cooled
by a 20-30 MPH breeze.
The fan mounts near the center of the home in the ceiling leading to
an open space in the attic. A certain amount of open attic space and
subsequent attic ventilation is necessary for proper operation.
A whole house fan will be helpful in any and every type of
installation, but will make an incredible difference in temperate
climates. If you live in the deep South where temperatures are above
90 degrees for 7 months out of the year, you will only be able to run
the whole house fan about 2-3 months out of the year. On the other
hand, if you live somewhere like California or North Carolina you can
realistically run your fan 4-6 months out of the year.
A whole house fan is always a good idea and it is hard to see why
they have recently declined in popularity. Prices range from $200 to
$300 dollars and are easily installed in a weekend. You will recoup
4. this cost in a single year.
Article by Jolly Heating and Air
• Jolly Heating & Air Conditioning | Northport AL Tuscaloosa AL
HVAC