Ride the Storm: Navigating Through Unstable Periods / Katerina Rudko (Belka G...
The beauty and luxury market fact sheet
1. Salon EMBALLAGE • 22-25 nov. 2010 • www.emballageweb.com
BEAUTY AND LUXURY MARKETS
KEY FIGURES 2009 (not available)
The beauty and luxury sector has greatly suffered from the crisis. Turnover losses have
sometimes been considerable. Several explanations can be given:
• Consumption of beauty or luxury products which are considered as non essential has been postponed or simply
cancelled.
• For certain products consumers have switched to more affordable distribution channels (large and medium retailers).
• Brands with a strong marketing positioning stood up well. The craze for organic and natural products has been
maintained through the crisis, and continues. Development of eco-cosmetics: preservative-free, paraben-free…
THE STAKES OF THE BEAUTY AND LUXURY SECTORS:
TOWARDS MORE PURITY … AND MORE TECHNICITY?
Like the food industry, the beauty and luxury sectors want to meet the expectations of their consumers as these are more and
more eco-conscious and environmental concerns are now part of their buying process. While this movement took more time to
develop, especially in the luxury segment, it can no longer be ignored.
In parallel with an environmental approach to packaging, the cosmetics and perfumery industry is also subject to the REACH
regulation on the use of chemical substances for the formulation of their products.
The development of organic product ranges or more natural formulas – using less preservatives – by cosmetic brands
requires that packaging ensures the preservation of these more fragile products: airless packaging or other solutions allowing
optimal product preservation to the end of the PAO (Period After Opening).
With the economic crisis consumers have switched to cheaper product lines or more affordable distribution channels (large and
medium retailers) to buy some personal care and makeup products. This induces a need for simple streamlined standard package
ranges.
With the crisis the death knell for certain ostentatious, showy luxury items has been sounded… Brands want to go back to
authenticity, purity, and the revival of aesthetics rooted in modernity. This trend is perfectly illustrated by the latest perfume created
by Hermès « Voyage », its bottle features a sleek design combining glass and metal.
Cosmetics and makeup brands develop more and more leading-edge personal and beauty care products with a virtually
scientific approach, and makeup techniques borrowed from professional makeup artists. They require packages that help to use
the product properly to obtain optimal results.
By
22-25 Nov. 2010 • www.emballageweb.com
2. GE • 22-25 nov. 2010 • www.emballageweb.com
ANSWERS PROVIDED BY PACKAGING MANUFACTURERS
• More environmental-friendly packaging
Eco-design is no longer just wishful thinking in the industry which may have seemed reluctant to embrace sustainable
development compared to other packaging user markets. Sustainability awareness has grown among all customers. Packaging
manufacturers propose light-weight packaging, and packages made of recycled materials and biomaterials
• Packaging which ensures the protection of fragile formulas
Airless bottles or tubes avoid product oxidation. Spray dispensers, valves and pumps minimize product contamination …
• Packaging which creates new gestures
More than a simple package, cosmetic and makeup packaging now includes application devices which prevent hand contact with
the product. Intended to ensure optimal use of the product, these roll-on applicators, brushes, sponges, nozzles and tips allow
to use the product on specific areas of the body or face. These innovations have been made possible through the development of
manufacturing technologies: double-cube systems which ensure package moulding and assembling at the same time.
EXAMPLES
• Environment
DuPont Packaging has developed Biomax PTT, a new 37% recyclable polyester with a naturally glossy surface (no lacquer layer).
It costs 10-20% less than conventional polyesters.
• Preservation of formulas
Promens has launched its « Green AirFree Vinci » bottle, a patented airless technology in a multi-layer co-extruded bottle. The
external layer is made of recycled PE and represents 70% to 85% of the total weight of the bottle material. The internal multi-layer
pouch contains a barrier material which blocks all odour migration and protects the integrity of the formula which is in contact with
virgin PE. Recycled materials have until now been difficult to use in the cosmetic industry because of odour migration problems
from the material to the formula.
Lablabo launches a new airless pouch dispenser, Brio. It provides higher protection thanks to its aluminium foil pouch and its self-
sealing actuator. More functionalities are available with its lockable actuator, adaptable pouch volume and pump dosage. Its
reduced number of components and light weight make it highly competitive.
Press contact: Stéphanie DRYANDER • Tel.: 33 (0)1 76 77 12 80 • Stephanie.dryander@comexposium.com
22-25 Nov. 2010 • www.emballageweb.com