Ideas for your next visit

a way of life

*********
www.esmadrid.com

a way of life
Much more than shopping
in the heart of Madrid.
!"#$%&"'(%')*+,-./'#"+0,-1'0"*+2(&"-('/(%2"'%33"2,-1'+-'"4$#5/,6"'/"#"$(,%...
MADRID

A way of life
Madrid is a city strongly focused on tourism. Its streets breathe vitality, art and culture, invitin...
ART AND CULTU-

ON THE ROOFTOPS
Reach up to the sky
from the terrace of
the Hotel Urban.

004

www.esmadrid.com
a way of life

010 About Madrid
Our tourist information services
are here to help you make the
most of your visit.

015. H...
54.
CONDE DUQUE

109/138.
PRINCESA
102/122/136.
CASA DE CAMPO
For a day out with
the family, come
and discover Madrid’s
gr...
139.
CHAMBERÍ
Small palaces, public
squares, good restaurants and art galleries.
Savour the local life.

56/100.
CASTELLAN...
un estilo de vida
The best of Madrid on your iPad
FREE FROM THE APP STORE*

Whatever your tastes,
this is where you'll fin...
TOURIST
INFORMATION
OFFICES
If you're coming to enjoy a few days in
Madrid remember that, as a tourist, you
have a wealth ...
SATE
FOREIGN TOURIST
ASSISTANCE SERVICE
Leganitos, 19
Incidents Tel. 902 10 21 12
Mon-Sun: 9am-12 midnight
satemadrid@es...
OFFICIAL GUIDED TOURS
All year round and as part of its Official Guided Tours
programme, Madrid City Council runs a wide var...
MADRID CITY TOUR
Madrid City Tour is probably one of the simplest and most
comfortable ways of getting a feel for the city...
MADRIDSHOP
Plaza Mayor, 27
Tel. 91 541 01 85
Mon-Sun: 9.30am-8.30pm
MadridShop is the city's official store. Inside, it is d...
WHAT'S ON
16-21
IT'S OFFICIAL: YOU SIMPLY
CAN'T GET BORED IN
MADRID YOU'LL ALWAYS
HAVE THE BEST CHOICE OF
THINGS TO DO IN ...
Highlights
GET OUT YOUR DIARY AND MAKE A NOTE: MADRID OFFERS
YOU AN UNMISSABLE EVENT FOR EVERY MONTH OF THE
YEAR. YOU'LL F...
EBRUARY
Passion for collecting
at ARCOmadrid
This year, Spain's largest contemporary
art fair is expected to attract 200 g...
PRIL
The pace picks up at
the Madrid Marathon
Commonly known as Mapoma, this year the
race is part of the Rock 'n' Roll Ma...
UNE
The focus is on
PHotoEspaña
In partnership with museums, art galleries
and other cultural centres, this ambitious fest...
UGUST
Veranos de la Villa festival
Over its 31 years of existence, the Veranos
de la Villa festival has become an essentia...
CTOBER
Architecture Week
Guided tours of buildings, exhibitions and workshops are just a few
of the activities on offer dur...
_

TRADE FAIRS AND CONGRESSES
7 PLANS
24-37
ITINERARIES TO
MATCH YOUR MOOD.
FOR SUNNY OR GREY
DAYS, WHETHER YOU
WAKE UP CRAVING SOME
CLEAN AIR, WITH AN
...
7

Plan your day to suit your mood

IF YOU WAKE UP TO BLUE SKIES
IT’S A KNOWN FACT THAT THE LIGHT IN MADRID IS SPECTACULAR...
Gastromoment

03. Curry or ginger?
Multicultural ingredients
. 
All this culture can make you hungry.
You can satisfy...
7
WALKING IN THE RAIN
MADRID BOASTS MANY DAYS OF SUNLIGHT DURING THE
YEAR, BUT IF YOU ARE CAUGHT OUT IN THE RAIN, THIS ISN...
After lunch

04. Fine Arts Circle
Goldfish Bowl
A city centre vantage
point

04

05

. 
The storm is brewing. Watch th...
7
TODAY YOU ARE FEELING GREEN
FOLLOWING IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF MADRID RIO YOU CAN VISIT
UP TO SEVEN PARKS, EACH ONE OFFERING ...
Sport

04. Ballcourts, climbing
wall and skates
Matadero Park
 
To burn off your lunch, make your
way to the Legazpi dis...
7
INCORRIGIBLE URBANITES
IN MADRID, IN ANY STREET IN THE CITY CENTRE YOU WILL
FIND THE LATEST TRENDS, AND ON ANY NIGHT THE...
Decotour

04. Centuries of history
are watching over us
Rediscover the Literary
Quarter
 
This district has been specta...
7
FOR INCURABLE HEDONISTS

IN THE MORNING, ART; BEFORE LUNCH, AN APPETIZER; AT MIDDAY,
A FINE RESTAURANT; TO UNWIND, A SPA...
At the table

03. Table service
Salamanca district

04

. 
On the streets crisscrossing the Goya,
Velázquez and Serra...
7
NOT WITHOUT MY CHILDREN
MADRID IS A CELEBRATION, WHETHER YOU ARE 5 YEARS OLD OR
50. USE THE KIDS AS AN EXCUSE TO RIDE ON...
Castellana

04. An aſternoon
with idols
There’s something for
everyone
. 
Accompany the children on a visit to
the Wax...
7
A PERFECT SUNDAY
FOLLOW THE EXAMPLE SET BY MADRID’S INHABITANTS
WHO TRADITIONALLY SPEND THEIR FREE DAYS WITH THEIR
FRIEN...
A walk

03. Meandering through
the streets
A medieval walk
 

03

As well as being an essential place for
tapas, the ma...
+34 914 364 340

2
ART &CULTURE
40-61
4043 THE ART WALK
4447 HISTORIC NEIGHBOURHOODS
4849 GALLERY ROUTE
5057 NEW SPACES
5859 WHAT'S ON
6...
THE ART WALK

Almost 3 km of museums and exhibitions

ALTERNATIVE SPACES
SUCH AS LA CASA ENCENDIDA,
THE REINA SOFÍA AND
CA...
ARCHAEOLOGICAL
MUSEUM
    
 , 
     
,    ...
OPEN!

   
   ,
   
   
' 
 ...
OSCAR MARINÉ
Designer,
illustrator, artist

A space you recommend. Matadero
Madrid, for the diversity of its cultural
acti...
www.esmadrid.com/en/architecture-madrid

GERARD MORTIER
Artistic director
at the Teatro Real

Where does your life in Madr...
PLAZA MAYOR
'   
    :
     
,    
   ...
LITERARY QUARTER
Echoes of the Golden Age
The neighbourhood owes its name to the fact that Góngora,
Tirso de Molina, Calde...
MARTA ETURA
Actress, winner of
the Goya Award for

Celda 211

Your favourite spot. The roof terrace of the Fine Arts Circl...
www.esmadrid.com/en/art-madrid

GALLERY ROUTE The most contemporary art
Every year in February Madrid bustles with
the arr...
CREATIVE DYNAMISM.
On this page: an exhibition
room at La Fábrica cultural
centre, and the Instituto
Cervantes. Previous p...
MADRID
AT YOUR FEET
    
    
  ' ,
   , ...
CIBELES PALACE
A true icon of Madrid

STARTING POINT
The same building is also home to CentroCentro, 30,000
square metres ...
www.mataderomadrid.com

MATADERO MADRID Spaces in constant evolution
When you come to Madrid you'll see that in
recent yea...
CÉSAR ANTONIO
MOLINA
Director of
Casa del Lector

A recommendation that never
disappoints. The Matadero Madrid
cultural co...
RENEWAL. On this page:
the Conde Duque barracks
opens its doors once more. On
the next page: the light and
airy ABC museum...
www.esmadrid.com/condeduque

JUAN GATTI
Graphic designer
and visual artist

A museum or gallery. I love the Decorative Art...
Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

NEW ARCHITECTURE
From Castellana to the outskirts
During these first years of the 21st century, Madrid
h...
www.esmadrid.com/madridrio

21ST-CENTURY FORMS.
On the previous page:
the four towers erected
at the end of Paseo de la
Ca...
WHAT’S ON

ART & CULTURE
>>>>>>

KEEP UP WITH IT ALL ON www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid

IT WOULD BE IMPOSSIBLE TO COV...
Architecture Week
A parade of giants
The experts reveal the secrets of Madrid's
most emblematic buildings. Get all the
det...
060

www.esmadrid.com
Madrid's taxi drivers are the
most intelligent sociologists
ELENA OCHOA FOSTER EDITOR AND GALLERY OWNER

The wife of archi...
FOOD&DRINK
64-78
6465 TAPAS
6667 MADRID  THE ESSENCE
6869 COSMOPOLITAN FLAVOURS
7071 HEALTHY AND GOURMET
7273 DISTRI...
TAPAS

The pleasure will be all yours

TASTY BITES.
A selection of tapas
lined up on a bar in San
Miguel market. On the
ri...
READY FOR A BITE?
Doing the rounds
in La Latina
Eating raciones (portions) is an old Spanish
tradition that has become pop...
OMAR ALLIBHOY
@tapasrevolution
Owner of hugely
succcessful Tapas
Revolution in London

Where do they serve your favourite ...
alike. La Bola, La Daniela and Los Galayos are among
the best known restaurants serving this traditional
dish. To work up ...
TREAT YOURSELF. It doesn't
matter if you choose the
elegance of Terraza del Casino,
Chinese food at Tsé Yang
or an Indian ...
www.esmadrid.com/en/restaurants-madrid

DAVID MUÑOZ
@DiverXO
Chef at
DiverXo restaurant

A favourite spot. Bravo Murillo, ...
EATING IN THE MARKET
San Miguel and San Antón
Madrid has taken snacks back to their roots, to the markets selling the top ...
DELICIOUS MARKETS.
On this page the counter at
one of the bars in San
Miguel market. On the next
page, two places to eat i...
DISTRICTS IN MADRID
TO WHET YOUR APPETITE
This is the start of your culinary journey through the main areas
in the city ce...
INTERNATIONAL.
Above, from left to right,
two Italian restaurants:
La Mucca and La
Tavernetta. Below, Happy
Day bakery.

*...
FOR THOSE WITH A SWEET
TOOTH... Breakfast and tea
As you walk round Madrid you'll be bombarded by many tempting aromas. Th...
www.esmadrid.com/en/restaurants-madrid

* DESSERTS *
»COFFEE The smell of coffee
fills bars and cafés from early
morning u...
LOVINGLY MIXED DRINKS.
Barman Carlos Moreno, from
Charly's Bar.

THE AFTER WORK BOOM
Cocktails in the centre
In Madrid the...
WHAT’S ON

FOOD & DRINK

>>>>>> FOR FULL DETAILS GO TO www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid

THE CALENDAR IS BRIMMING WITH ...
"Madrid is full
of temptations"
RAMÓN FREIXA COOK
@RamonFreixa

He is one of the leading lights of the
Catalonian school l...
SHOPPING
80-97

WHATEVER YOUR STYLE, WE HAVE
SOMETHING TO SUIT ALL TASTES.

8081 SERRANO
8283 GRAN VÍA / SOL
8485 RASTR...
ARTE Y CULTURA

SHOPPING
The best of each neighbourhood

EACH AREA HAS ITS OWN PERSONALITY. THE MOST
CHIC BRANDS ARE IN SA...
STREETS
WITH RENOWN
    
   
    
. , ,
...
SHOPPING

www.esmadrid.com/en/shopping-madrid

GRAN VÍA / SOL The main commercial arteries of Madrid
From Monday to Sunday...
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Guia de Madrid en Ingles

  1. 1. Ideas for your next visit a way of life ********* www.esmadrid.com a way of life
  2. 2. Much more than shopping in the heart of Madrid. !"#$%&"'(%')*+,-./'#"+0,-1'0"*+2(&"-('/(%2"'%33"2,-1'+-'"4$#5/,6"'/"#"$(,%-'%3 '(7"'8%2#0./'9-"/('8+($7:'';"8"#2<'+-0'#5452<'#,3"/(<#"' =2+-0/>'?-;%<'(7"'$%&3%2('%3 '+'$%&*#"("'#5452<'/7%**,-1'"4*"2,"-$"',-'@+02,0:',-$#50,-1'0"#,$,%5/'0,-,-1'+-0'2"/(%2+(,6"'8"##-"//' (2"+(&"-(/:'+##'+6+,#+=#"'+('(7"'-"8#<'2"-%6+("0'?#'A%2("'B-1#C/'A+/("##+-+>' )("*',-(%'+'-"8'8%2#0'%3 '/(<#"> C A S T E L L A N A M A D R I D S PA I N
  3. 3. MADRID A way of life Madrid is a city strongly focused on tourism. Its streets breathe vitality, art and culture, inviting anyone who visits to arrange plans difficult to imagine in any other Spanish or international destination. The number of annual visitors to the city now exceeds 8 million. They come to enjoy this diverse and multi-faceted metropolis whose appeal never ceases to grow thanks to the drive for excellence within the tourism sector along with the constantly expanding leisure options and a complete overhaul of the cultural calendar. The local government is committed to promoting and raising awareness of its cultural heritage and of the plethora of shopping, culinary, hotel and leisure options Madrid has to offer. This commitment translates into initiatives such as the publication of this guide, in which you learn many reasons why this city has become one of the five most visited capital cities in Europe. The 170 plus pages contained in this guide to promote Madrid reveal the city’s many tourist attractions, some of which are unique. Its readers will discover that Madrid has a beach, to be found in Madrid Rio, the new green heart of the city centre, or that each district has its own identity, and that Madrid has restored several of its major historical cultural locations, such as CentroCentro, Matadero Madrid and the Conde Duque centre. Other aspects of Madrid you will discover in this guide include the Art Walk, which never closes; and other facts, such as that culture is thriving on the streets, manifested in a thousand different ways; that in few places is it as easy as in this city to find nature forming part of the urban landscape; that it is possible to sample fine cuisine, either from Spain or from any other corner of the world. Also note that there are traditional marketplaces and signature state-of-the-art markets where you can call in for a bite; that the outdoor cafés are not just for summer; that shopping is more convenient thanks to the pedestrian areas; that it is possible to sleep in palaces, or in charming hotels; or that Madrid is just a short journey away from many other UN Heritage sites. The modern, sustainable and leading-edge capital that Madrid has become could not miss the opportunity to promote its tourist attractions with an innovative guide, like the one you now have in your hands. This is a practical guide with plans for every month of the year, for every day of the week and for every hour of the day, to suit everyone’s pocket, taste or mood. Because this is Madrid: a diverse city which constantly innovates and reinvents itself to delight and satisfy anyone in search of a different lifestyle. www.esmadrid.com 003
  4. 4. ART AND CULTU- ON THE ROOFTOPS Reach up to the sky from the terrace of the Hotel Urban. 004 www.esmadrid.com
  5. 5. a way of life 010 About Madrid Our tourist information services are here to help you make the most of your visit. 015. Highlights Published by: Madrid Visitors & Convention Bureau (Madrid MV&CB). Deputy Mayor's Office. Madrid City Council. Chairperson: Miguel Ángel Villanueva. CEO: Ignacio Fernández. Managing Director: Mar de Miguel. Head of Tourist Promotion and Destination Management: Miguel Sanz. Director of Publications and Content: Carlos Menéndez Editing: Silvia Roba, Ignacio Vleming, Isabel Morales, Fernando Pretus, Anne-Lise Leclerc, Judith Grayland. Marketing: Caroline Tensi and Verónica Casares. Director of Business Development: Mercedes Posada. Production: La Factoría. Valentín Beato, 48 – 3ª planta. 28037 Madrid. Tel.No.: 915 386 118 Director of La Factoría: Virginia Lavín. Assistant director: Javier Olivares. Project Manager: Ángel L. Esteban. Original design and Art direction: José Antonio Gutiérrez. Layout Manager: Pedro Díaz Ayala. Texts: Txema Ybarra, Anabel Vázquez, Beatriz H. Cembellín, Francis Pachá, Claudio Martín, Rosana Torres, Gloria Montero. Print edition: Paola Pérez (director), Rosa García Villarrubia, Ángel Manzano. Photography: Luis Rubio, Chus Eto, Alberto Ortega, Roberto Iván Cano, Adolfo Callejo, Javier Morán, Ofelia de Pablo, Juan Lafita, Daniel Alea, Alfredo Arias, Javier Mantrana, AGE FOTOSTOCK, CORDON PRESS, EFE, EL PAIS, FOTOTECA, GETTY IMAGES, IBERIMAGE, FIROFOTO Madrid VCB. Illustrations: Jaime Martínez (main maps p.6-7, p.40-41, p.134-135), Alberto García (route maps). Production Director: Francisco Alba. Printing: Palgraphic. Legal Deposit: M-48914-2011. Cover: Royal Palace Photo: © Paolo Giocoso/SIME/FOTOTECA The information may have been modified after this edition went to press. Readers can find updated information on the website www.esMADRID.com. 12 essentials for 2013, a monthby-month report on the events you shouldn’t miss this year. 023. 7 days / 7 plans There are a thousand and one things to do in Madrid every day of the week. Check out these plans we’ve organized to suit your preferences or mood. 039. Take your pick Suggestions for all the family in Madrid’s enchanting districts and neighbourhoods. 039. ART & CULTURE Discover the Art Walk, Royal Madrid, the Golden Age, new locations, galleries and the major urban landmarks. 063. FOOD & DRINK Savour the most traditional dishes and the latest signature cuisine; delight in the art of snacking on tapas washed down with a glass of wine or beer; and make the most of the cocktail trend which is all the rage. 079. SHOPPING Something for everyone, at affordable prices, any day of the week. Wander the streets of Madrid as you shop to your heart’s content. 099. FUN & GAMES By day, in the evening or at night. Sports, shows and nights that turn into mornings. 121. AS A FAMILY The big city takes care of entertainment for the youngest members of the family. There is a whole world waiting to be discovered. 133. GREEN MADRID Historical parks, secret gardens, pedestrian areas and sunsets. 145. GAYFRIENDLY MADRID Madrid welcomes everyone and is noted as a global example of diversity. 153. SLEEPING A great variety of options for an unforgettable stay. 161. DAY TRIPS Short excursions around Madrid and high-speed getaways by AVE to major Spanish cities. 167. Services Access by air, rail and road. City transport, weather, opening hours, bank holidays, accessibility, where to find Wifi areas and several maps of Madrid to help you get around the city as you please. LG BT ART & CULTURE FOOD & DRINK SHOPPING LEISURE LUXURY FAMILY GREEN LGBT SLEEPING DAY TRIPS
  6. 6. 54. CONDE DUQUE 109/138. PRINCESA 102/122/136. CASA DE CAMPO For a day out with the family, come and discover Madrid’s green lung. Museums, wine bars, alfresco dining and trendy shopping around the former Barracks. Shopping, films in their original language and tree-lined avenues, from Moncloa to Plaza de España. 51/84/106/141. GRAN VÍA/SOL Pedestrian areas and musicals invade the city centre’s main shopping street. 44/70/72/116/139. HAPSBURG DISTRICT Relive the history of the city as you wander the streets, from Plaza Mayor to the Royal Palace. 57/102/134. MADRID RÍO Discover the city's newest green area - it's great for walking and cycling. 65/72/82/116/118. LA LATINA The epitome of the art of the tapa. The little squares and taverns are always packed to the brim.
  7. 7. 139. CHAMBERÍ Small palaces, public squares, good restaurants and art galleries. Savour the local life. 56/100. CASTELLANA From Colón to the Cuatro Torres, calling in at the Bernabéu; this avenue has it all. 70/72/139/141. MALASAÑA You’ll be blown away by its alternative scene, by day and night. 49/70/84. SALESAS 72/80. SALAMANCA Shopping around Serrano is an unmissable experience. A modernist style and elegant atmosphere. Pubs, shopping and charming streets. 70/72/146 CHUECA Diversity is the name of the game in this welcoming neighbourhood which reinvents itself constantly. 103/122/136. RETIRO A green oasis in the heart of the city. Walk, cycle or skate around it. 40/154. THE ART WALK 46/72/84. LITERARY QUARTER 69/72/116. LAVAPIÉS From Cibeles to Atocha, the city’s most important museums flank this beautiful tree-lined boulevard. A host of possibilities suggest themselves as you walk from Plaza de Santa Ana to Calle Huertas. The most exotic flavours in this most traditional of neighbourhoods. A multicolor atmosphere. www.esmadrid.com 07
  8. 8. un estilo de vida The best of Madrid on your iPad FREE FROM THE APP STORE* Whatever your tastes, this is where you'll find all the latest in art, culture, gastronomy, night life, new venues, family activities, sport, LGBT, and much more. Get ‘guíaMadrid12’ from the App Store. *Application only available in Spanish. For the online version in English go to: www.esmadrid.com/madridguide 8 www.esmadrid.com
  9. 9. TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES If you're coming to enjoy a few days in Madrid remember that, as a tourist, you have a wealth of resources at your fingertips, from information centres and websites through to a wide range of benefits and routes for exploring the city. TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES PLAZA MAYOR TOURIST CENTER Plaza Mayor, 27 (Casa de la Panadería. Ground Floor) Tel. 91 454 44 10. Mon-Sun: 9.30am-8.30pm turismo@esmadrid.com The first stop for tourists arriving in Madrid is the central tourist information office in Plaza Mayor. This modern centre located in Casa de la Panadería has everything you need to know about the capital's cultural and leisure attractions and can supply you with all kinds of information. Services include specialist assistance, ticket sales for the Official Guided Tours programme, a Remember Madrid point with information about the various tourist loyalty programmes, self-service consultation, technology area (audiovisual information, free Internet access, Wifi zone, free downloadable audioguides, personalised leaflets and virtual map), special service points providing information in Asian languages and Russian, as well as a range of accessible services. COLÓN TOURIST CENTER Located in a former underground passage between Calle Génova and Calle Goya Mon-Sun: 9.30am-8.30pm This tourist office provides the following services: face- 010 www.esmadrid.com to-face and specialist assistance, self-service consultation, Remember Madrid (information on tourist loyalty programmes run by Madrid City Council), technology area (audiovisual information, free Internet access and Wifi zone) and a Learn Spanish information point with specific information for people interested in learning the language. An outdoor screen in the middle of the street displays a daily city and cultural calendar. OTHER INFORMATION POINTS *Plaza de Cibeles *Plaza del Callao *Paseo del Arte (on Calle Santa Isabel, next to the Reina Sofía Museum). *Madrid-Barajas Airport: Terminal 2 (arrivals hall) and Terminal 4 (arrival halls 10 and 11).
  10. 10. SATE FOREIGN TOURIST ASSISTANCE SERVICE Leganitos, 19 Incidents Tel. 902 10 21 12 Mon-Sun: 9am-12 midnight satemadrid@esmadrid.com SATE offers foreign tourists visiting the city personalised assistance in the event of any incident that requires them to visit a police station. The service is operated by specialist staff. Tourists are given help with reporting the incident and with completing any other paperwork relating to their situation. Visitors and their families are also offered counselling if they need it. LOYALTY PROGRAMMES Taking part in the loyalty programmes run by Madrid City Council gives you the chance to discover the city in a different and enjoyable way. When you join the Discover Madrid Club and take part in the Official Guided Tours programme, you'll also be eligible to enjoy a series of additional benefits. Snap Madrid gives you two routes for photographing monuments and suggested locations, and Snap Madrid Río takes in a series of bridges over the Manzanares River. Once you've completed them, you get a souvenir of the city. A tour specially designed for families, Madrid: A Family Experience, enables parents and children to discover Madrid through educational games and puzzles while they follow three self-guided routes. Visitors who register on the database will also be kept up to date on all the news and tourist products that match their profile. www.esmadrid.com 011
  11. 11. OFFICIAL GUIDED TOURS All year round and as part of its Official Guided Tours programme, Madrid City Council runs a wide variety of sightseeing tours in different languages (Spanish, English, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Japanese and Dutch). You can choose from: *Routes by bike *Family tours and storytellers *Unmissable: -Essential Madrid I: Hapsburg and La Latina -Essential Madrid II: Cervantes and the Literary Quarter -Essential Madrid III: El Retiro and the Art Walk *Specially adapted tours for people with physical, sensory or intellectual disabilities Whenever you see this stamp in the magazine, it means there is a guided tour that passes the exact spot mentioned on that page. Find out more about the Official Guided Tours programme, prices and sales points on: www.esmadrid.com/officialguidedtours 012 www.esmadrid.com ESMADRIDMAGAZINE A free monthly publication in Spanish and English, featuring the highlights from the month's cultural calendar, plus interviews and reports on Madrid's temporary and permanent entertainment options. You can pick up a copy of the magazine at any of the city's tourist centres and information points, as well as in leading hotels, restaurants, shops and cultural centres. It is also available for download from www.esmadrid.com/en/esmadridmagazine
  12. 12. MADRID CITY TOUR Madrid City Tour is probably one of the simplest and most comfortable ways of getting a feel for the city. All you have to do is buy a ticket, hop on the bus, put your headphones on to listen to the audioguide, sit back and enjoy the streets, monuments and places of interest, with the advantage that you can hop off wherever you feel like it. Tickets are valid for one or two days, depending on your chosen rate, and you can get on and off the bus as many times as you like along route one, route two or both. Madrid City Tour has audioguides in 14 languages (Spanish, English, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Russian, Japanese, Dutch, Chinese, Arabic, Catalan, Basque and Galician) Tel. 902 02 47 58 (24 h) Times: March-October: 9am-10pm November-February: 10am-6pm Ticket sales: buses, hotels, travel agencies, MCT Information Centre (Calle Felipe IV, next to the Prado Museum) and on www.madridcitytour.es More information and prices: www.esmadrid.com/en/madridcitytour Sol. The final stretch rejoins Paseo del Prado and takes you to the Botanical Gardens, then on to the Reina Sofía and Thyssen-Bornemisza museums. The extended version of this route, which runs twice a day (4.40pm and 8.40pm), goes to Madrid Río and the Moncloa area. ROUTE TWO The second Madrid City Tour option starts at the same place, next to the Prado Museum, but in this case it travels along the city's main arteries, Castellana, Prado and Recoletos, and through neighbouring streets. One of the most spectacular buildings lining this route is Cibeles Palace, but there are other striking landmarks in the Castellana area as well, such as Marqués de Salamanca Palace, Nuevos Ministerios, the AZCA shopping centre and the Santiago Bernabéu football stadium. The bus also passes through the Salamanca district, with its designer boutiques and the Lázaro Galdiano Museum. Finally, the route takes in Puerta del Sol and the Spanish parliament building, Congreso de los Diputados, before arriving at the last stop in Plaza de Neptuno. This second route also operates an extended version twice a day (4.50pm and 8.50pm), which includes these sights plus the new Cuatro Torres Business Area, with the city's tallest buildings, before returning via Las Ventas bullring. WWW.ESMADRID.COM Madrid City Council's website is packed with everything you need to know about tourism, leisure and business in the city. This essential guide offers detailed information about services, monuments, museums and other must-visit places, together with a comprehensive tourist information database (hotels, restaurants, shops, etc.) and a calendar of cultural events taking place in Madrid (exhibitions, theatre, sport and much more). ROUTE ONE Calle Felipe IV, next to the Prado Museum, is the starting point for this route that takes you to Puerta de Alcalá, followed by the Prado-Recoletos artery, the location of the Neptuno and Cibeles fountains, before continuing up Gran Vía. The bus travels along this main thoroughfare towards Plaza de España, passing in front of the Temple of Debod, until it reaches the old part of the city, where you'll discover the Royal Palace, La Almudena Cathedral and Puerta del www.esmadrid.com 013
  13. 13. MADRIDSHOP Plaza Mayor, 27 Tel. 91 541 01 85 Mon-Sun: 9.30am-8.30pm MadridShop is the city's official store. Inside, it is designed to represent and promote Madrid life and place it within visitors' reach. The shop interior features recycled, sustainable and energy-saving materials that are environmentally-friendly and is completely accessible to people with reduced mobility. You can find the perfect memento of your trip here: music, books, audiovisual items and much more. This is also the place to get your MadridCard, the essential city pass. MADRIDCARD Have the city at your fingertips with MadridCard. The key to discovering secrets of the city. This sightseeing pass enables you to make your way around Ma- 014 www.esmadrid.com drid easily, enjoyably and with minimum fuss. For a very reasonable price, it entitles you to discounts in shops and restaurants, on the Essential Madrid tour in the Official Guided Tours programme, and on entry fees to over 50 museums. You also get preferential entry to the Prado and Reina Sofía museums, the Royal Palace, the Bernabéu Tour and the Wax Museum, which saves you having to queue. Along with this tourist card, you get a guide in Spanish, English, Italian, German and French with a map of the city and everything you need to know about MadridCard partner museums, services and establishments (restaurants, cafés and shops). Depending on the fee you choose to pay, MadridCard can be used for 24, 48, 72 or 120 hours. Special children’s prices available. You can buy MadridCard in the MadridShop, located inside the Plaza Mayor tourist office, and on the Internet. See more information on www.madridcard.com.
  14. 14. WHAT'S ON 16-21 IT'S OFFICIAL: YOU SIMPLY CAN'T GET BORED IN MADRID YOU'LL ALWAYS HAVE THE BEST CHOICE OF THINGS TO DO IN YOUR SPARE TIME: ART, THEATRE, MUSIC, SCIENCE, SPORT, SHOPPING AND MUCH, MUCH MORE. HERE ARE 12 EXAMPLES OF WHAT YOU COULD BE DOING IN 2013.
  15. 15. Highlights GET OUT YOUR DIARY AND MAKE A NOTE: MADRID OFFERS YOU AN UNMISSABLE EVENT FOR EVERY MONTH OF THE YEAR. YOU'LL FIND ALL KINDS OF THINGS, FROM CULTURE AND SPORT THROUGH TO FOOD AND DRINK. >>>>>> KEEP UP WITH IT ALL ON www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid ANUARY Quick, the sales are on! When the Christmas lights are switched off and the city seems to go into winter hibernation, along come the sales to liven up the streets again (sometimes even earlier). At this time of year everyone flocks to the shops in Gran Vía, Serrano and Salesas (page 80), a ritual that is repeated with the arrival of summer and the change of 016 www.esmadrid.com season. You'll also find attractive discounts all year round in outlet centres such as Las Rozas Village (page 92) and in themed street markets. >WHEN: From 7 January. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS THEM: You'll best prices on the best products. get the
  16. 16. EBRUARY Passion for collecting at ARCOmadrid This year, Spain's largest contemporary art fair is expected to attract 200 galleries and 3,000 artists from all over the world, offering a tour of the latest art trends. Now's the time to make a start on your own collection. >WHEN: From 13 to 17 February. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: Amazing art coupled with some fantastic activities. ARCH The Real opera house hits the high notes As they do every season, the Teatro Real opera house is organising a full operatic programme that this year includes a performance of Les pêcheurs de perles (The Pearl Fishers), one of Bizet’s most exotic operas. Famous tenor Juan Diego Flórez will be singing the role of Nadir, a fisherman passionately in love. This three-act opera is conducted by Daniel Oren. Mozart’s Don Giovanni is due to be staged in April. >WHEN: 25, 28 and 31 March. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The quality of the show and the grandeur of the stage. www.esmadrid.com 017
  17. 17. PRIL The pace picks up at the Madrid Marathon Commonly known as Mapoma, this year the race is part of the Rock 'n' Roll Marathon Series, the world's biggest city running circuit. Are you up for it? There will be live music on over 20 stages, plus a finish line concert. >WHEN: 28 April. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It will be an entertainment-packed route, with music and performances. AY Tennis aces Since 2009, the Mutua Madrid Open has been the fiſth Masters 1000 event of the year. Winners of last year’s tournament were Roger Federer and Serena Williams; in 2011 victory went to Novak Djokovic and Petra Kvitova, and in 2010 the event was won by Rafael Nadal and Aravane Rezai. Tickets on sale at www. madrid-open.com >WHEN: From 3 to 12 May. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It's one of the key tournaments on the ATP calendar. 018 www.esmadrid.com
  18. 18. UNE The focus is on PHotoEspaña In partnership with museums, art galleries and other cultural centres, this ambitious festival shows audiovisual work from all over the world, combining daring and quality in a heartfelt tribute to photography. You have two months to see it. >WHEN: 5 June to 28 July. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The whole city is a showcase for the work of top photographers. ULY The great Gay Pride march Every year the LGBT Pride festival draws hundreds of thousands of people to the city. A huge party at which everyone is welcome, it comes packed with opening speeches, live concerts and lots more. The most eagerly-awaited event is the Gay Pride parade, which runs along Calle Alcalá and Gran Vía (page 147). >WHEN: From 3 to 7 July. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The last two years have been billed as the best gay event in the world. www.esmadrid.com 019
  19. 19. UGUST Veranos de la Villa festival Over its 31 years of existence, the Veranos de la Villa festival has become an essential date on Madrid's cultural calendar during the hot summer months, with a series of openair evening performances bringing a welcome breath of fresh air. >WHEN: June-August. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: You'll get the chance to see star performers in unique settings. EPTEMBER 'Deco' festival The Literary Quarter puts on its finery for a few days in September. Streets and shops dress up to celebrate DecorAcción, an event focusing on art and decoration characterised by urban intervention. Shop windows move out onto the street and make their mark in a brilliant Antiques Market. >WHEN: September. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: You can find some really unusual decorative items. 020 www.esmadrid.com
  20. 20. CTOBER Architecture Week Guided tours of buildings, exhibitions and workshops are just a few of the activities on offer during Architecture Week, when you can get a feel for Madrid's built heritage (page 51). Equally interesting are the talks and lectures taking place during the event, given by leading international architects. >WHEN: October. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It's a great chance to discover hidden gems. ECEMBER It's Christmas time When December rolls around, Christmas traditions envelop the streets and many take on a modern look. Watch bright lights coming on at dusk, smell the aroma of roasted chestnuts waſting through the air and join the bustling shopping centres full of people on the lookout for the best giſts, as Madrid pulls out all the stops for the merriest time of the year (page 132). OVEMBER Madrid gets jazz fever >WHEN: Until 6 January. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: Its old spirit lives on. Open your ears to all kinds of sounds, from bebop to Latin beats. The Madrid International Jazz Festival is a journey through music across the globe, from north to south, east to west, featuring live performances by big-name artists on the various stages spread over the whole city. >WHEN: November. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The programme includes some great virtuosos. www.esmadrid.com 021
  21. 21. _ TRADE FAIRS AND CONGRESSES
  22. 22. 7 PLANS 24-37 ITINERARIES TO MATCH YOUR MOOD. FOR SUNNY OR GREY DAYS, WHETHER YOU WAKE UP CRAVING SOME CLEAN AIR, WITH AN URGE TO GO SHOPPING OR TO HAVE FUN WITH YOUR CHILDREN. HERE ARE SOME IDEAS TO SUIT EVERYONE’S TASTE.
  23. 23. 7 Plan your day to suit your mood IF YOU WAKE UP TO BLUE SKIES IT’S A KNOWN FACT THAT THE LIGHT IN MADRID IS SPECTACULAR. ADMIRE THE COLOURS OF EL RETIRO, DISCOVER THE PASEO DEL PRADO, TAKE A CULTU RAL STROLL THROUGH THE CITY’S STREETS AND ENJOY A SPECTACULAR SUNSET. Greenery 01 01. Oxygen in El Retiro Wake up at your own pace   A day that begins under the trees in El Retiro can not end too badly. Roam around this enormous park at your leisure. If you enjoy walking, why not ramble along its paths? If you prefer running, jog along the track around the park. If skating’s your thing, the Paseo de Coches is the place for you. An hour in the park will provide you with enough oxygen and endorphins for the rest of the week. Art 02. A morning at the Reina Sofía and the Prado Half morning visits   Both museums are open on Mondays. The pioneer was the Reina Sofia. Of course, you can visit Picasso’s Guernica on permanent display here, but also check out its programme of temporary exhibitions. Find some time to spend in La Central, one of Madrid’s finest bookshops. It’s always a good idea to add a visit to the Prado to your Monday schedule, an ideal day for peacefully browsing through its vast exhibition rooms. 024 www.esmadrid.com 02
  24. 24. Gastromoment 03. Curry or ginger? Multicultural ingredients .  All this culture can make you hungry. You can satisfy it very close by in Lavapiés, where you will find some of Madrid’s best ethnic restaurants. Along Calle Ave María is a variety of Thai, Indian and Lebanese restaurants, all as affordable as they are delicious. More culture 04. Aſternoon in the Mapfre centre Visit, observe and tell everyone about it   Take a stroll from Lavapiés to Recoletos. Walk along the Paseo del Prado to burn off your lunch until you reach your destination: the nineteenth century palace, home to the Mapfre Foundation. This intimate venue organises some extraordinary temporary exhibitions. Monday is the quietest day. If you happen to be visiting an exhibition at this time of the aſternoon, you are certainly doing something right. 03 Tapas time 05. An evening in Las Salesas A trendy sunset   If your task of the day has been to become inspired by the city, it is now time to rest. The streets around the Salesas neighbourhood are a meeting place, as evening draws in, for designers, journalists and local residents. On practically every corner you will find a place to enjoy a cocktail, sip a wine from Madrid or nibble on a slice of Spanish omelette, which every bar claims to make better than anyone else. 04 05 www.esmadrid.com 025
  25. 25. 7 WALKING IN THE RAIN MADRID BOASTS MANY DAYS OF SUNLIGHT DURING THE YEAR, BUT IF YOU ARE CAUGHT OUT IN THE RAIN, THIS ISN’T A PROBLEM SINCE THERE ARE A PLETHORA OF OPTIONS TO MAKE YOUR DAY JUST AS BRIGHT. 01 Important 01. Buy yourself an umbrella And make it a stylish one   Casa de Diego, in Puerta del Sol, has been selling the finest umbrellas since 1858, like the ones Mary Poppins used, in addition to shawls, fans and castanets. Shopping 03 02. Strolling along Preciados Free from the disturbance of traffic .  This is the most traditional shopping street in Madrid, pedestrianised for hassle-free window shopping, which is much appreciated, especially on rainy days. Seek refuge in any of the nearby department stores. Snacking 03. San Miguel market Gourmet tastings   An open-plan covered market, and an emblem of culinary delights since its recent restoration. Here you will find oyster stalls, cheese counters and sweet sellers. 026 www.esmadrid.com
  26. 26. After lunch 04. Fine Arts Circle Goldfish Bowl A city centre vantage point 04 05 .  The storm is brewing. Watch the hustle and bustle of the Calle Alcalá, through the immense windows of the long-established coffee house at the Fine Arts Circle. The coming and going of vehicles and passers-by is a sight worth seeing. Take the opportunity to visit some of the interesting art and photographic exhibitions programmed throughout the year. Theatre 05. Drama and comedy Madrid takes the stage   Classics and contemporary plays, laughter and tears, performance art and musicals, stand-up comics and international shows; all the great names in acting make an appearance on the stage of Madrid’s theatres. The bigger theatres usually have more seats available on week days; take the opportunity to book your seat and enjoy the show. www.esmadrid.com 027
  27. 27. 7 TODAY YOU ARE FEELING GREEN FOLLOWING IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF MADRID RIO YOU CAN VISIT UP TO SEVEN PARKS, EACH ONE OFFERING A WORLD TO DISCO VER, A FAMILY DAY OUT OR A GREAT CYCLING EXPERIENCE. Breakfast 01. Neighbourhood spirit Arganzuela Park   Start the day in any of the cafés that flank the park’s entrance while contemplating the city as it awakes before your stroll or bicycle ride. Science 02. A 3D Universe Tierno Galván Park .  If you continue along the leſt bank of the Manzanares River you will see the Planetarium and the dome of the Imax, where spectacular 3D documentaries are shown in its morning sessions. With a view 03. Picnic on the peak Linear Park of the Manzanares River   In addition to its fantastic cycle track, it offers splendid views over the city. We suggest you stop for a picnic under the shade of the Lady of the Manzanares by Manolo Valdés. 028 www.esmadrid.com 01 03
  28. 28. Sport 04. Ballcourts, climbing wall and skates Matadero Park   To burn off your lunch, make your way to the Legazpi district, the perfect place for sports enthusiasts to practice any kind of activities, from cycling and skate boarding to rock climbing. Matadero (pg 48) is a mustvisit for art and culture lovers. 04 05 05 Patron Saint 05. Visit the shrine Pradera de San Isidro .  If you visit during the festival period (May) you can witness the most quintessential side of the city. If not, the shrine, a perennial icon of popular tradition, is an agreeable and peaceful place. One of its curiosities is that is offers a Mozarabic mass on Sundays at midday and on Tuesdays at 5.30 pm. For dining out 06. A memorable evening Casa de Campo Park .  Not many people know this, but in Madrid’s immense country park there is also a Culinary Route, with top class restaurants to suit everyone’s pocket. Drinks 07 07. The origins of Madrid Atenas Park   Just by Puente de Segovia, and at the foot of the Arabic wall, its famous outdoor café is a popular haunt in summer when the sun goes down. In winter, you could opt for one of the cafés or bars in the nearby Vistillas or on Cuesta de la Vega. www.esmadrid.com 029
  29. 29. 7 INCORRIGIBLE URBANITES IN MADRID, IN ANY STREET IN THE CITY CENTRE YOU WILL FIND THE LATEST TRENDS, AND ON ANY NIGHT THERE ARE PLENTY OF PEOPLE AROUND TO GUARANTEE A GOOD TIME. A TIP: GO OUT ON THE TOWN ON THURSDAYS. 01 02 With a view 01.A breakfast for champions Plaza de la Independencia   A slice of toasted baguette with tomato and olive oil, accompanied by coffee or tea will provide you with the energy you need for the day. Or, if you prefer, croissants and madeleines. You can breakfast outdoors, by the gates of the Retiro, while watching the world go by at the Puerta de Alcalá. Shopping 03 02. Find the latest styles On the hunt for up-to-theminute trends .  Before going out for the evening, make your way to the districts where fashion is always one step ahead. Men will love Conde Duque, the girls will fall for Salesas, and the fashionistas will be delighted by the streets around Triball. Lunch 03. Menu of the day Home-cooking   Succulent food at an affordable fixed price. This is the best way to sample homecooked food in the eateries of the neighbourhoods of Chamberí, Lavapiés and Chueca. 030 www.esmadrid.com
  30. 30. Decotour 04. Centuries of history are watching over us Rediscover the Literary Quarter   This district has been spectacularly revamped. Without losing sight of its 04 artisan and popular traditional ambience, it is now home to numerous home décor 05 and antiquarian establishments where 05 you might wish to treat yourself to some shopping. An ideal setting for an aſternoon stroll, with a break for a bite to eat in any of the district’s cafés. Art 05. Gallery openings The first in line   Thursday is oſten the day for inaugurating new exhibitions. Take the opportunity to visit one of the city’s best art galleries. Check out the city’s events calendar at www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid 06 Gastrobars 06. The ‘aſterwork’ trend Shall we go for a drink?   This is the starting point for sharing some light refreshments with friends aſter finishing work. A few beers to start off the evening, to wash down the tapas, continuing with a couple of glasses of wine and finishing off with a tantalizing cocktail. www.esmadrid.com 031
  31. 31. 7 FOR INCURABLE HEDONISTS IN THE MORNING, ART; BEFORE LUNCH, AN APPETIZER; AT MIDDAY, A FINE RESTAURANT; TO UNWIND, A SPA; IN THE EVENING, A SHOW AND A FEW DRINKS. WHAT MORE COULD YOU ASK FOR? 01 An art-filled morning 360 degrees 01. Every possible style Paseo del Prado 02. A high rise view Cibeles Palace   M Having seen the treasures of the Art Walk inside the museums, now is the time to take a global view from outside. There is no better place for this than from the vantage point of the roof of the CentroCentro, from where you can admire spectacular panoramic views over Madrid. Start the day with a coffee on any of the outdoor cafés at the end of Calle Huertas. From here you are just a few short steps away from the best museums in Madrid. To the right is the CaixaForum with its vertical garden; a little further along is the Reina Sofía museum. To the leſt is the Thyssen museum. And just opposite, the Prado. All museums offer guided visits and educational programmes for children. 032 www.esmadrid.com
  32. 32. At the table 03. Table service Salamanca district 04 .  On the streets crisscrossing the Goya, Velázquez and Serrano districts, it is possible to eat at some of the best restaurants in Madrid. From the creations of prize-winning chefs boasting Michelin stars to the best seasonal cuisine. Relax 04. Pamper yourself Wellbeing for your body   To restore your energy before going out on the town, many of Madrid’s top hotels offer spa and massage services. Alternatively, you could visit one of the many sports centres and gyms open to the public. Theatre 05 05. Curtains up Classics, comedy and musicals .  All eyes all on the Madrid stage, which has become a great cultural attraction, with a varied programme featuring top international shows and famed actors. “Movida” 06. The youngest itinerary From Chueca to Malasaña 06   Most of Madrid’s nightlife is concentrated in these two districts. In the first you can experience a laid-back LGTB ambience. Malasaña is just around the corner and has lost none of its appeal to the alternative crowd with a recent face-liſt and a great selection of nightclubs catering for every musical taste. www.esmadrid.com 033
  33. 33. 7 NOT WITHOUT MY CHILDREN MADRID IS A CELEBRATION, WHETHER YOU ARE 5 YEARS OLD OR 50. USE THE KIDS AS AN EXCUSE TO RIDE ON ALL KINDS OF AT TRACTIONS OR TO ASK RONALDO FOR HIS AUTOGRAPH. 02 Greenery and zoo Boating 01. Morning leisure time Casa de Campo   Any excuse is a good excuse to visit the Casa de Campo: spend a morning wandering through the trees, test your fitness on the exercise apparatus, pedal along the cycling routes, row a boat on the lake or visit the animals at the zoo. Thematic fairs and sports competitions are frequently held here. Appetizer 02. All aboard the Cable Car Paseo de Rosales 03 M Take the opportunity to cross the Manzanares on board the hanging cabins which take you to the Parque del Oeste, another of Madrid’s vast green spaces, with bars and outdoor tables, a perfect place for a snack while you watch the children play. Refreshment 03. À la carte or at the bar San Anton Market   Now is the time to hop on the Metro to Chueca.This is the latest market to have opened and already it is a hit with the public with its varied food stalls, its contemporary design and fabulous atmosphere. Do not forget to visit the outdoor café on the roof. 034 www.esmadrid.com
  34. 34. Castellana 04. An aſternoon with idols There’s something for everyone .  Accompany the children on a visit to the Wax Museum in Colón and end the aſternoon with a walk up the Castellana (or take the bus if you prefer) to the Santiago Bernabeu stadium, football’s maximum exponent. If there isn’t a match on, you can always see the pitch from inside the stadium and the trophy room. Shopping 05. Open on bank holidays Madrid never closes   Begin by updating your kit in the Real Madrid shop and then head off to the children’s clothes shops in the Salamanca district, also open on Sundays (as is the rest of the city centre). Madrid residents say this is the best day to go shopping. 04 Before going to bed 06. Hot chocolate with 'churros' Irresistible   Aſter such a busy day you need to restore your energy. The San Ginés hot chocolate bar close to Sol is legendary, and not to be missed. In the aſternoon it has a family atmosphere while at night it is a required stop for nighthawks, as it is open until dawn. 06 05 www.esmadrid.com 035
  35. 35. 7 A PERFECT SUNDAY FOLLOW THE EXAMPLE SET BY MADRID’S INHABITANTS WHO TRADITIONALLY SPEND THEIR FREE DAYS WITH THEIR FRIENDS AND FAMILY. A RECENT DEVELOPMENT IS STORES IN CENTRAL DISTRICTS OPENING ON SUNDAYS. Shopping Breakfast 01. Sniff out a bargain at the Rastro A thousand and one curiosities 02. A full brunch Everything you could wish for   Plaza de Cascorro and Calle Ribera de Curtidores are covered with hundreds of stalls from this traditional flea market, where, if you search long enough, you can find practically anything. 01 036 www.esmadrid.com .  What began as a habit introduced by international visitors only catered for by the top class hotels, has now spread throughout the whole city. Café Oliver boast of being the first to serve brunch.
  36. 36. A walk 03. Meandering through the streets A medieval walk   03 As well as being an essential place for tapas, the maze of streets of La Latina is ideal for a leisurely walk to discover the medieval atmosphere of its hidden squares, such as Plaza de San Andrés, and its narrow streets such as Cava Baja. After lunch 04. A steaming cup of coffee Walls steeped in history .  Around Calle Segovia you will come across old-time cafés that invite you to stop and chat with friends or cast a glance over the Sunday papers. Remember that many news kiosks open only on Sunday mornings. Arenal 04 06 05. Sunday shopping Open just for you .  Around Plaza Mayor the streets are bustling with a festive and family atmosphere. But not only here. Shops and businesses in the centre of Madrid are allowed to open as they would any other day of the week. Cinema 06. Latest film releases In their original language   In Madrid, subtitled films continue to thrive. Many of the OV cinemas are located around Plaza de los Cubos, close to Plaza de España. In the area there are a few excellent bars where you can enjoy some international tapas aſter the film. www.esmadrid.com 037
  37. 37. +34 914 364 340 2
  38. 38. ART &CULTURE 40-61 4043 THE ART WALK 4447 HISTORIC NEIGHBOURHOODS 4849 GALLERY ROUTE 5057 NEW SPACES 5859 WHAT'S ON 6061 INTERVIEW Elena Ochoa
  39. 39. THE ART WALK Almost 3 km of museums and exhibitions ALTERNATIVE SPACES SUCH AS LA CASA ENCENDIDA, THE REINA SOFÍA AND CAIXAFORUM, CLASSICS INCLUDING THE PRADO AND THE THYSSEN, AND PRIVATE INSTITUTIONS LIKE THE MAPFRE FOUNDATION… WEAR COMFORTABLE SHOES! THE ESSENTIAL ROUTE for art lovers If you haven't stood before Las Meninas, you haven't been to Madrid. This might sound a little over the top, but the Prado Museum and the room within which the public can contemplate this extraordinary painting represent one of the corners of Madrid that visitors can least afford to miss out on. The 040 www.esmadrid.com Prado embodies the spirit of Madrid: regal yet open, local yet universal, vast and yet built on a human scale, solid yet constantly moving. This museum forms part of the so-called Art Walk, a route covering almost three kilometres from the National Library in Plaza de Colón to La Casa Encendida in the Embajadores district.
  40. 40. ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM       ,        ,        - ,     . FROM COLÓN TO EMBAJADORES The route encompasses a string of emblematic art institutions, including the ThyssenBornemisza Museum, CaixaForum and the Reina Sofía Museum. Each has its own personality: the Thyssen boasts an outstanding permanent collection of more than a thousand works dating from the 18th century to the end of the 20th; CaixaForum surprises visitors with its temporary exhibitions cover- ing all artistic disciplines without exceptions and "El Reina", as the locals call it, has focused on purely avant-garde movements for the last twenty years. And there's more besides. Other must-visits include the Mapfre Foundation, the Casa de América and the new CentroCentro, located near Plaza de Cibeles. www.esmadrid.com/en/art-walk-madrid www.esmadrid.com 041
  41. 41. OPEN!        ,         '        . THE THREE BIG ONES: PRADO, THYSSEN & REINA SOFÍA Three museums, three different personalities. The Prado, designed by Juan de Villanueva and extended by Rafael Moneo, is one of the world's most prestigious art galleries. Alongside Las Meninas by Velázquez and The Third of May 1808 by Goya, its rooms also house various masterpieces of the Spanish, Italian and Flemish schools. The Thyssen-Bornemisza brings together vast exhibitions and a powerful, unique painting collection. It displays some of the best works from the 18th to the 20th centuries, filling in the gaps not covered by its fellow galleries on the Art Walk such as Fauvism and German Expressionism. They really know how to organise blockbusters: this year it has a definite date with Pisarro. The Reina Sofía 042 www.esmadrid.com embraces all minority movements. The reorganisation of the permanent collection and the museum's exhibition programme has a strong avant-garde message: Madrid's audiences have daring tastes. MORE THAN JUST EXHIBITIONS Something is always happening at these three museums. The Prado is an excellent place to have breakfast or buy a giſt. The Reina Sofía boasts one of the best bookshops in the city, La Central, and the Thyssen's patios and conference programme represent one of Madrid's luxuries.
  42. 42. OSCAR MARINÉ Designer, illustrator, artist A space you recommend. Matadero Madrid, for the diversity of its cultural activities. Your favourite museum. The Reina Sofía, for the versatility of its rooms and magnificent library. Your thoughts on the Prado. Everyone can find inspiration in there. And the Thyssen. We are lucky to have it in Madrid. Madrid's best-kept secret. It's an open secret: the future Royal Collections Museum, designed by Tuõn and Mansilla. Your latest discovery. The Tipos Infames bookshop (San Joaquín, 3). THE THREE CORNERS. The Prado Museum (see previous page), the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum (above) and the Reina Sofía Museum make up the central triangle of art in Madrid. www.esmadrid.com 043
  43. 43. www.esmadrid.com/en/architecture-madrid GERARD MORTIER Artistic director at the Teatro Real Where does your life in Madrid take place? Usually between the Teatro Real and my apartment. Where would you recommend for a quiet meal? The restaurants I like best are Goizeko (Comandante Zurita, 37), Kabuki (Avenida del Presidente Carmona, 2) and, when the weather's good, the gardens of the Hotel Ritz (Pza. de la Lealtad, 5). A walk that inspires you. I really enjoy a stroll in the Retiro Park and the grand boulevards of the city centre. A place to buy a gift. I don't overcomplicate things: I know that in El Corte Inglés I can find everything I need. 044 www.esmadrid.com HAPSBURG Royal Madrid King Felipe II made Madrid the capital of Spain in the 16th century. Both he and his successors would be active residents of Madrid. A perfect example of this is Carlos III (18th century), a great town planner who deserved his nickname as the “Mayor King”. Thanks to him, the capital was transformed from a medieval town into a modern city. The nucleus of this regal Madrid is the Royal Palace, which boasts the most important royal armoury in Europe and is surrounded by the Teatro Real opera house and La Almudena Cathedral. A royal residence since 1764, it is impressive both for its imposing façade and lavish interior, with almost 3,000 rooms open to visitors. Nevertheless, the Spanish monarchs were of an austere nature, and nowhere is this better reflected than in the Hapsburg neighbourhood (Austrias).
  44. 44. PLAZA MAYOR '        :       ,         .          . CENTURIES OF HISTORY. On the left-hand page, the Royal Palace presides over Plaza de Oriente. Here, the colonnades of Plaza Mayor never fail to amaze. *SSSSHHHH* PAST AND PRESENT Today, Hapsburg Madrid is one of the most pleasant places to take a walk, and one of the best preserved areas of the city. Nestled in between Puerta del Sol and the Royal Palace, it is a labyrinth of narrow streets, stone buildings, convents and churches. Time has been kind to this sober architecture, even giving it a feeling of vitality. Much frequented by locals and visitors alike, it is also a fine example of how the past is still very present in Madrid without overwhelming the modern city. Monarchs, the aristocracy and their homes are full of mysteries and legends: · It is said that the elegant halls of Linares Palace, which today house Casa de América, are haunted. Many visitors claim to have heard the ghost's voice. · Ataulfo is the name of the spirit that lives in the Reina Sofía Museum. The legend dates back to the 18th century when the building was a hospital. · The Duchess of Osuna organised talks on spiritualism during the Enlightenment at El Capricho Park. Goya produced paintings for the small palace on the grounds, including Witches' Sabbath, now housed in the Lázaro Galdiano Foundation. www.esmadrid.com 045
  45. 45. LITERARY QUARTER Echoes of the Golden Age The neighbourhood owes its name to the fact that Góngora, Tirso de Molina, Calderón de la Barca and Lope de Vega lived here in the 17th century. To remind us of these illustrious residents, excerpts of their works have been engraved on pavements trodden by many passers-by every day. Its borders are marked by Plaza de Santa Ana, Plaza de las Cortes, Calle de Atocha and Paseo del Prado. Being close to the Prado has naturally led to the establishment of several art spaces in the area. In fact, it has always drawn in musicians, booksellers and antique dealers. In recent years a new generation of traders and artists has emerged, reviving the perennial spirit of the neighbourhood with a 21st-century twist. Everyone is aware that the Literary Quarter possesses a special cultural energy and they pull together to protect it. Today, following a pedestrianisation process that has breathed life into the area, the Literary Quarter takes great care over its ethics and aesthetics. This is a neighbourhood worthy of the great names who lived here a long time ago. *BETWEEN PAGES* »CUESTA DE MOYANO The mecca for all book lovers. Here you can find traditional stalls where books are bought, sold and exchanged. The perfect plan for the weekend. »ATENEO Open to members and researchers, it boasts a vast collection of 19th century pamphlets, monographs and journals. Some interesting conferences also take place here. »NATIONAL LIBRARY Everything published in Spain can be found here. It has just celebrated its 300th anniversary with more vitality than ever. »INSTITUTO CERVANTES LIBRARY This space is targeted at a multicultural public interested in the Spanish language. It has a good video library and guarantees peace and quiet to work in. 046 www.esmadrid.com NEIGHBOURHOOD LIFE. In and around Calle de las Huertas you can feel the inspiration of literature and the arts, and you will often stumble across street performances here.
  46. 46. MARTA ETURA Actress, winner of the Goya Award for Celda 211 Your favourite spot. The roof terrace of the Fine Arts Circle. I love the view over the rooftops. Where might we be able to find you? In the Literary Quarter, browsing its interior design stores, galleries and antique shops. Your perfect time and place. Gran Vía. 5am. A terrace. My terrace, or that of the hotel ME (Pza. Santa Ana, 14). A place to eat with friends. Maxi (Cava Alta, 4): on Thursdays and Saturdays they do a delicious Madrid-style stew. A place to buy a gift. I usually head to the area of Calle de Piamonte. MADRID'S LITERARY QUARTER 01. Pza. del ¸ngel 02. Teatro Espaol 03. Ateneo 04. Pza. de las Cortes 05. Thyssen Museum 06. Pza. de la Platería 07. Prado Museum 08. CaixaForum 09. Reina Sofía Museum 10. Cine Doré www.esmadrid.com 047
  47. 47. www.esmadrid.com/en/art-madrid GALLERY ROUTE The most contemporary art Every year in February Madrid bustles with the arrival of ARCOMadrid, to the delight of all collectors. Free valuations will be offered by the fair itself for the second year running for those who wish to start their own collection. Its influence as a prominent art market reaches across the whole city, all year round. Madrid's galleries are behind the indisputable masters of modern art in Spain, such as Tàpies, Barceló and Gris, as well as the innovative force represented by young avant-garde artists. There are a number of gallery routes across the city centre. You might decide to visit the galleries of the Literary Quarter, small yet very up-to-date, or the long-standing ones in Chamberí. New spaces are springing up in the Salamanca district, already a pioneer back in the 1960s. Other good routes can be found near the Reina Sofía Museum, not to mention those scattered across the Salesas neighbourhood. Whatever the choice, each one offers a stimulating dip into the art world. ARCO IT'S A FIESTA        ,       .   ,      . 048 www.esmadrid.com
  48. 48. CREATIVE DYNAMISM. On this page: an exhibition room at La Fábrica cultural centre, and the Instituto Cervantes. Previous page: Ivorypress gallery. *SALESAS* Although there are galleries all over Madrid, the highest proportion is to be found in the Salesas neighbourhood. The area is home to contemporary classics such as the Juana de Aizpuru, Max Estrella, La Caja Negra, Moriarty, Elvira González and Rita Castellote galleries. A stroll down its wide streets confirms its status as Madrid's own Soho. GERARDO MOSQUERA @GerardoMosquer1 Curator for PHotoEspaña A walk that inspires you. From Puerta del Sol to Hapsburg Madrid. To get away from it all. The Royal Botanical Gardens. The best views. From the roof terrace of the Fine Arts Circle. The most special light. The sunset from the terrace at La Almudena Cathedral. Your latest discovery. RMS El Espacio (www.rms.com.es). Classicism versus avant-garde. The Prado Museum and Matadero Madrid. A local tip. The San Miguel and San Antõn markets. Something that always surprises you about Madrid. The intensity of its nightlife. www.esmadrid.com 049
  49. 49. MADRID AT YOUR FEET             ' ,    , ,        . CENTROCENTRO. The renovated interior of Cibeles Palace is open to residents and visitors alike - a unique, multipurpose space with viewpoint, auditorium and restaurant/café. 050 www.esmadrid.com
  50. 50. CIBELES PALACE A true icon of Madrid STARTING POINT The same building is also home to CentroCentro, 30,000 square metres of exhibition space and platforms for debate, an auditorium for chamber music events, and its Patio de Operaciones, a place to socialise, take a seat, relax and contemplate your next visit, or read some more about Madrid. It also boasts an impressive Glass Gallery: some of the city's best celebrations are held here. But the jewel in the palace's crown is the viewpoint. It stands 70 metres from the ground, offering 360 degree views over the heart of Madrid. The restaurant which opened in 2012 is on the top floor of the building. 02 03 04 05 06 07 A popular spot for snapshots in Madrid is undoubtedly Cibeles Palace. In fact, the whole square invites a constant stream of amateur photographers capturing their memories of Madrid in the form of a photo. Now, Plaza de Cibeles, as open and vibrant as the city itself, has taken on new life. It has gone from being a mere piece of scenery to a place that attracts visitors in its own right. The recent renovation of Cibeles Palace has led to the creation of a new cultural and social space. The original building, built by Palacios and Otamendi in 1904, currently houses the City Council in part of its rooms. 01 08 09 10 THE LANDMARKS OF CALLE ALCALÅ AND GRAN VÒA 01. Fine Arts Circle Alcalá, 42. (1919-1926) 02. Metrõpolis Building Alcalá, 39. (1907-1910) 03. Madrid-París Building Gran Vía, 32. (1920-1924) 04. Palacio de la Prensa Pza. del Callao, 4. (1925-1929) 05. Cines Callao Pza. del Callao, 3. (1926-1927) 06. Torre de Madrid Pza. de Espaa, 18. (1954-1960) 07. Casino de Madrid Alcalá, 15. (1903) 08. Banco Bilbao Building Alcalá, 16. (1919-1923) 09. Carriõn Building Gran Vía, 41. (1931-1933) 10. Telefõnica Building Gran Vía, 28. (1926-1930) www.esmadrid.com/en/art-madrid www.esmadrid.com 051
  51. 51. www.mataderomadrid.com MATADERO MADRID Spaces in constant evolution When you come to Madrid you'll see that in recent years the capital has experienced a similar process to that of other European cities. A process somewhere between poetry and sustainability. The city has revived some ailing spaces, breathing new cultural life into them. The standard-bearer of this trend is Matadero Madrid, a huge complex (and former slaughterhouse) located on the edge of the Madrid Río project that has placed the Arganzuela district in the avant-garde spotlight of the city. Today it houses exhibition halls such as Nave 16 (the largest in the city), the innovative Central de Diseño, the creative centre Abierto X Obras and the cinema Cineteca. This is also the location of Inter- mediae, a venue for generating new projects, and Naves del Español, one of Madrid's most stimulating theatres. Its brand new landmark space, La Casa del Lector, was successfully opened in 2012. BREAKING THE MOULD Matadero continues the groundbreaking trend started by La Casa Encendida, well known for its cultural activities, courses and workshops. Another option is the El Águila complex, a former beer factory that now hosts visual art exhibitions. MATADERO ALSO AT NIGHT   ,        .        ,     '     . 052 www.esmadrid.com
  52. 52. CÉSAR ANTONIO MOLINA Director of Casa del Lector A recommendation that never disappoints. The Matadero Madrid cultural complex. What is it about Madrid that makes it special and different? The sky and the constant light. The most amazing thing about Casa del Lector. It’s a place that teaches how to live and love culture. A great bookstore in the capital. “Antonio Machado” in Círculo de Bellas Artes. A book about Madrid or set in Madrid. Valle-Inclán’s novel, Bohemian Lights. * NEWCOMERS * BREAKING THE MOULD. Matadero Madrid (on the left) joins the list of innovative spaces along with (on this page) La Casa Encendida and Hub Madrid. »MEDIALAB PRADO A research laboratory and centre for collaborative work which aims to disseminate digital culture and bring together society, art, science and technology. Alameda, 15. »HUB MADRID A space for co-working and an ideas centre. It marks a before and after in our understanding of the way we work. Gobernador, 26. »UTOPIC_US A multipurpose and avant-garde art gallery, workspace and, even, school. Concepciõn Jerõnima, 22. »ESPACIO FUNDACIÓN TELEFÓNICA A leading expo- nent of 21st century culture: creativity, innovation and technology for social development. Fuencarral, 3. www.esmadrid.com 053
  53. 53. RENEWAL. On this page: the Conde Duque barracks opens its doors once more. On the next page: the light and airy ABC museum (above) contrasts with the museums of History and Romanticism. CONDE DUQUE Martial renewal This self-sufficient, well-preserved military neighbourhood is like a Russian doll: the streets lead to plazas, which lead to tucked-away spots, which lead to sculptures... Now it has added two large cultural spaces to its physiognomy and soul. However, they are not entirely new: Conde Duque already existed as an exhibition centre and concert hall, but it has just undergone a fabulous refurbishment. In times gone by this was the largest building in Madrid. Even today it has imposing dimensions, with a surface area of 5,000m2 and 228 metres of façade. It also boasts an impressive theatre, exhibition and musical programme of events. A NEW NEIGHBOUR Very close to Conde Duque and complementing it is the ABC Museum. It is an unassuming building whose glass façade contrasts with its surroundings. An initiative of the newspaper ABC and supported by its substantial archives, it is focused on illustration and graphic design. Open since 2010, it already forms part of the city's cultural routes. It's the new kid on the block that can be found in all traditional neighbourhoods. 054 www.esmadrid.com
  54. 54. www.esmadrid.com/condeduque JUAN GATTI Graphic designer and visual artist A museum or gallery. I love the Decorative Arts and Sorolla museums. Madrid's best-kept secret. I want it to stay that way: the Botanical Gardens. They are not at all well-known, and they're divine. The thing you can only find in Madrid. The party spirit. Your latest discovery. The vintage furniture shop Moratín 20. A unique photo. In one of the Matadero buildings that haven't been restored, and I love the light in the train stations. * 5 MUSEUMS * »ROMANTICISM Decorated in the style of a 19th century bourgeois palace. A delight. In Chueca. »SOROLLA The Valencian artist painted here for many years. The museum offers the best of his works and the chance to learn about his daily life. In Chamberí. »CERRALBO Works by El Greco and Zurbarán are interspersed with this family's collection from the 19th century. In Princesa. »LÁZARO GALDIANO A journey through the history of Spanish art: pieces by Goya, Velázquez and El Greco. In Salamanca. »HISTORYFormer hospice housing one of the best displays of Madrid baroque. Recently reopened. In Chueca. www.esmadrid.com
  55. 55. Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx NEW ARCHITECTURE From Castellana to the outskirts During these first years of the 21st century, Madrid has witnessed two architectural currents. It is impossible to ignore the first, a clearly avant-garde style. The four skyscrapers at the northern end of Castellana remind us of this fact. They are: Torre de Cristal, Torre PwC (which houses the five-star Eurostars Tower on its first 34 floors), Torre Espacio and Torre Repsol, the last of these designed by Sir Norman Foster. Other turn-of-the-century examples include T4 (Richard Rogers-Estudio Lamela), prodigious work of engineering and light; the CaixaForum building (Herzog&de Meuron), which still amazes with its illusion of lightness; Caja Mágica by Dominique Perrault; Jean Nouvel's work on the Reina Sofía; and Moneo's on the Prado. 056 www.esmadrid.com The other trend present here has a more discreet profile and sustainable angle. Madrid has taken on projects in which architecture and town planning go hand in hand; above all, the city keeps close to the residents and their needs. In some of Madrid's neighbourhoods you can find works that incorporate green technology and a sense of coexistence, as in the case of the Eco-Boulevard in Vallecas and the Carabanchel urban expansion, which contains buildings such as the Manzana Perforada by ACM Arquitectos and Casa de Bambú by Alejandro Zaera. Times change, people change and cities change.
  56. 56. www.esmadrid.com/madridrio 21ST-CENTURY FORMS. On the previous page: the four towers erected at the end of Paseo de la Castellana. On this page: the bridge designed by Perrault as part of the Madrid Río project. THE BRIDGES OF MADRID RÍO Have you crossed your favourite yet? Madrid Río has 32 bridges and walkways linking the two banks of the Manzanares River. If you weren't aware of its recent past, you'd never guess that beneath them lies an underground motorway. This wide-ranging project directed by Ginés Garrido has maintained and restored some classic bridges such as those of Toledo, Segovia, Del Rey and Reina Victoria. Nine new bridges have also been added. The most frequently photographed is the Puente Monumental de la Arganzuela by Dominique Perrault, an icon of the new Madrid. The most unusual bridge is Puente de Andorra, or the y-shaped walkway, while the warmest designs are those of the twin Invernadero and Matadero bridges, decorated by Daniel Canogar. INVERNADERO          ,    -           . www.esmadrid.com 057
  57. 57. WHAT’S ON ART & CULTURE >>>>>> KEEP UP WITH IT ALL ON www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid IT WOULD BE IMPOSSIBLE TO COVER ALL THE CULTURAL EVENTS ON OFFER IN MADRID BUT DON'T DESPAIR: WE CAN SUM UP THE HIGHLIGHTS OF 2013 FOR YOU. THREE TIPS SOROLLA Following exhibitions in Italy and Granada, the Sorolla Museum is now hosting this show paying tribute to the painter’s best-loved landscapes. From 30 October 2012 to 5 May 2013. VAN DYCK Casa de Alba its artistic legacy Paintings by Goya, Titan and Rubens are just a few of the treasures from the Casa de Alba private collection, now on show in the Centro Centro at Palacio de Cibeles. More than 150 artworks from the legacy of Spain’s most influential aristocratic family. >WHEN: From 30 November 2012 to 31 March 2013. >DID YOU KNOW?: The masterpiece 'The Virgin of the Pomegranate' is being exhibited for the very first time. The Prado Museum is showing the precocious painter’s early creative work. From 20 November 2012 to 3 March 2013. CRISTINA IGLESIAS The Reina Sofía is hosting the biggest retrospective exhibition ever held on this Spanish artist. From 5 February to 13 May 2013. Book Fair A large-scale event at El Retiro Park Every spring Madrid hosts this major event on the literary calendar, where leading authors and publishers come together to present their latest releases and interact with their readers. >WHEN: May-June. Paseo de Coches in El Retiro Park. >A UNIQUE EVENT: With more than 300 stalls, this is the biggest bookshop you'll find in Spain. 058 Beyond ARCOMadrid A window onto the avant-garde Three other excellent fairs will be held in parallel: Art Madrid, Madrid Dearte and JustMad. All complement a programme that offers curated activities providing a space for emerging galleries and markets. >WHEN: From 13 to 17 February 2013 Feria de Madrid. >KEEP IN MIND: Transport between fairs is generally well organised. Make sure you check out the options and timetables. www.esmadrid.com
  58. 58. Architecture Week A parade of giants The experts reveal the secrets of Madrid's most emblematic buildings. Get all the details by visiting www.esmadrid.com/semanaarquitectura. >WHEN: October. Various locations. >WHAT TO EXPECT: It's a great chance to discover hidden gems. Dalí The Surrealist genius The Reina Sofía National Museum is hosting a major exhibition together with the Pompidou Centre in Paris, in collaboration with the Gala-Salvador Dalí Foundation in Figueres and the Salvador Dalí Museum in St. Petersburg (Florida). The show focuses on the Surrealist period of this creative genius, with particular emphasis on the paranoiac-critical method he developed as a mechanism for transforming and subverting reality. >WHEN: From 24 April to 2 September 2013. More Dalí to come at the end of the year: he also features in the Surrealism and Dream exhibition at the Thyssen Museum. >TO BEAR IN MIND: AND MUCH MORE MADRIDFOTO The outlook is good for the fifth year of this event dedicated to collecting contemporary images. From 23 to 26 May 2013. Feria de Madrid. LA CIUDAD EN VI³ETAS CentroCentro is the place to catch a cycle of exhibitions on unpublished comic strips on Madrid. From 27 September 2012 to 31 July 2013. Pisarro A unique Impressionist A pivotal figure who laid the foundations for the Impressionist movement, but who was eclipsed by his peers. The Thyssen Museum is holding the first monographic exhibition of his work in Spain. >WHEN: From 4 June to 15 September 2013. >WHY YOU SHOULD SEE IT: Because you will really appreciate his mastery of landscape in these 70 works of art. MARTÒN RICO The Prado Museum presents work by this pioneering artist in the introduction of realist landscape painting in Spain. From 30 October 2012 to 10 February 2013. CHANGING OF THE GUARD Enjoy one of the most emblematic sights by visiting the Royal Palace for the Solemn Changing of the Guard. The first Wednesday of every month at 12 noon, except in summer. www.esmadrid.com 059
  59. 59. 060 www.esmadrid.com
  60. 60. Madrid's taxi drivers are the most intelligent sociologists ELENA OCHOA FOSTER EDITOR AND GALLERY OWNER The wife of architect Norman Foster is the founder of the Ivorypress art publishers and exhibition space, a meeting point for the newest vanguard movements. @IvoryPress Define Madrid in just one image. The Gran Vía leading down towards Plaza de Cibeles. Where in Madrid could you spend hours reading? At home. And if my house is full of kids playing in the hallways, then Plaza de Santa Bárbara nearby. Where do you like to hang out? At the bar Cock (Reina, 16) with my close friends, until as late as possible. What's the greatest luxury you allow yourself in Madrid? And the best value treat? Wandering around Hapsburg Madrid. And the best value treat: going to the cinema with my children, enjoying a packet of pipas and a large popcorn. What hotel do you usually recommend? The Santo Mauro (Zurbano, 36). And what about restaurants? For pizza, Bar Tomate (Fernando El Santo, 26); if you fancy hake, then Goizeko Kabi (Comandante Zorita, 37); for game, Horcher (Alfonso XII, 6); for a good potato tortilla, La Ancha (Príncipe de Vergara, 204); and for eating and chatting with friends, La Tasquita de Enfrente (Ballesta, 6). With my kids I prefer to go to Pan de Lujo (Jorge Juan, 20). And I'm leaving a lot of places out. What is the thing you miss most about Madrid when you're abroad? The smell, the light, the blue sky, and the taxi drivers: they're the most intelligent sociologists, a barometer of Spain. Their irony is witty, authentic and inimitable. What can a visitor to Ivorypress expect to find? A different way of understanding books and contemporary art. That's how we've been described by the Financial Times and the Daily Telegraph, as well as by magazines like Monocle and Corriere del Arte. My team and I have managed to position Ivorypress and Madrid as a steady, indisputable landmark in contemporary art and publishing. It's a fact and a reality. But there’s still a long way to go. Who is the artist from Madrid that you would most like to publish a book with? The artist I admire most is from Madrid: Isidoro Valcárcel Medina. He is the future. We have developed a meticulous artist's book with him which we will launch at this year's edition of Arco. The best book written about Madrid is... The one I'm writing, which I might not ever publish. I’m writing about public and private Madrid, the Madrid I love and the one I hate, the one that I feel when I live there for periods of time, and the timeless, ephemeral Madrid; its people, whom I love, and its skies and corners. www.esmadrid.com 061
  61. 61. FOOD&DRINK 64-78 6465 TAPAS 6667 MADRID  THE ESSENCE 6869 COSMOPOLITAN FLAVOURS 7071 HEALTHY AND GOURMET 7273 DISTRICT BY DISTRICT 7475 SWEETS AND DESSERTS 76 DRINKING IN STYLE 77 WHAT'S ON 78 INTERVIEW Ramón Freixa
  62. 62. TAPAS The pleasure will be all yours TASTY BITES. A selection of tapas lined up on a bar in San Miguel market. On the right, eating raciones in La Latina district. MADRID IS ONE OF THE WORLD'S FOOD CAPITALS. HERE YOU CAN ENJOY DISHES FROM ACROSS THE GLOBE AS WELL AS TRADITIONAL AND CONTEMPORARY SPANISH CUI SINE AT ANY TIME OF DAY. TA PAS, THOUGH, ARE A MUST. 064 www.esmadrid.com LET YOURSELF GO      :     ,      ,        . BEER AND WINE A traditional ceremony A good tapa needs to be washed down with a good drink, which is why the beer pump is the heart of any bar. Traditional taverns always echo to the sound of glasses of beer being filled and passed over the counter. In Madrid pale beer is the favourite choice, served in a small glass and very cold, especially in summer. Some people prefer a clara, beer mixed with soda water or lemonade. Vermouth, also available on tap, is still a favourite aperitif.
  63. 63. READY FOR A BITE? Doing the rounds in La Latina Eating raciones (portions) is an old Spanish tradition that has become popular in many countries, and there’s nowhere quite like Madrid for enjoying tapas. They have become part of our social and cultural life, with cheese, cold meats, rice and stews in individual portions making up the perfect informal way of eating your fill. This art is at its finest in the Literary and Hapsburg quarters and, above all, in La Latina, where you can go from bar to bar, eating a little of everything you fancy. Products with designation of origin and other delicacies are now being given the creative cuisine treatment. Leading chefs have turned their attention to tapas, reinventing them with creative designs, attractive textures and a mix of delicious international flavours. However, However, the tortilla, or potato omelette, is still the best known tapa of all. In portions, as canapés or cut into cubes, it is the quintessential Madrid tapa. * TOP TAPAS * »CROQUETTES Ham, chicken, cod WINE BY THE GLASS Depending on the bar and the time of day, wine has become a popular alternative to beer. The traditional flat-bottomed chatos are now being replaced by stemmed wine glasses. You can order wine by the glass so there’s no need to sit down at a dinner table and order a whole bottle. Fine wines from Spain and the rest of the world can be enjoyed in many classic wine bars and modern gastro-bars, where you can devise your own à la carte tasting menu of small dishes. Old favourites like olives, white anchovies in vinegar and Iberian ham are to be found alongside new versions of traditional recipes featuring ingredients from other cultures. Travel through food! and many others. With their varied fillings, croquettes are ideal for a tasty snack. »'BOCADILLOS' Baguettes filled with old favourites are still very popular: fried squid, ham and tomato, pork tenderloin with cheese, peppers, etc. »'TORTILLAS' The potato omelette reigns supreme but there are many alternatives. In Spain they are eaten at any time of day. »PATATAS BRAVAS Potatoes cut into chunks, fried and served with a spicy tomato sauce. www.esmadrid.com 065
  64. 64. OMAR ALLIBHOY @tapasrevolution Owner of hugely succcessful Tapas Revolution in London Where do they serve your favourite cocido? In Taberna la Daniela. Any favourite tapa? The tortilla pinchos at Juana la Loca (Pza. Puerta de Moros, 4) and croquettes from the stall in San Miguel market. A relaxed meal. Roast lamb at La Tahona (Espíritu Santo, 12). A drink to round the evening off? The rooftop terrace at Hotel Urban (Carrera de San Jerõnimo, 34). THE HOME OF 'COCIDO'. From left to right, three restaurants you'll want to go back to: La Bola, Cruz Blanca beer bar in Vallecas (winner of the award for the best cocido in Madrid) and Malacatín. 066 www.esmadrid.com A COMPLETE 'COCIDO' The capital's staple dishes Cocido is a meal in itself. The first course consists of soup, and is followed by a stew made with cabbage, carrots and potatoes, chorizo, bacon, chicken and pork, plus chickpeas, a crucial ingredient. There are many variations but the original, authentic version is from Madrid. The dish epitomises the city's open character. This generous stew, which admits all sorts of ingredients, should be prepared in a pot and served in an earthenware dish. It dates back to the sixteenth century, when it was eaten by nobility and servants
  65. 65. alike. La Bola, La Daniela and Los Galayos are among the best known restaurants serving this traditional dish. To work up an appetite or help you to digest your meal, go for a long walk through the city centre. LA LATINA La Latina district is the focal point for tourists and locals in search of good traditional cooking. MOUTHWATERING FOOD There are many other traditional dishes that are firmly rooted in Madrileños’ normal diets. They can also be found in restaurants across the city, with such gastronomic delights as roast lamb at Casa Botín, tripe at the Malacatín, fried eggs at Casa Lucio and calamari sandwich at El Brillante all forming part of the local culinary heritage. In Madrid you can also find fine food from the rest of Spain in the city's many excellent regional restaurants: salmorejo from Andalusia, pisto from La Mancha, fish and shellfish from the north of Spain and rice dishes from the Mediterranean. www.esmadrid.com 067
  66. 66. TREAT YOURSELF. It doesn't matter if you choose the elegance of Terraza del Casino, Chinese food at Tsé Yang or an Indian meal at Mumbai. Madrid will not disappoint you. SETTING THE SCENE     , '      ,        . 3,100 RESTAURANTS In different parts of the city. Food is an art, combining leisure, culture and business. OPENED IN 1725 Casa Botín, near Plaza Mayor, is the oldest restaurant in the world. 10 TRADITIONAL RESTAURANTS You'll find them on Paseo de la Gastronomía in Casa de Campo. 068 www.esmadrid.com MICHELIN STARS Exquisite taste Michelin, the restaurant guide par excellence, has never been particularly generous as far as Spain's or Madrid's gastronomy is concerned. But the stars it has awarded are certainly well deserved. Madrid has six restaurants holding two Michelin stars: La Terraza del Casino, home of Paco Roncero's imaginative cuisine; Santceloni, where Óscar Velasco follows in the footsteps of Santi Santamaría; Ramón Freixa Madrid and Sergi Arola Gastro, named aſter their famous chefs, both of whom trained in Catalonia; plus DiverXo and Club Allard. Their young yet mature chefs are David Muñoz and Diego Guerrero respectively, who skilfully combine widely varying culinary trends. The restaurants with one Michelin star are the elegant Zalacaín, where some of the country's most important business deals have been struck, and Kabuki and Kabuki Wellington, a balanced fusion of Japanese and Spanish cooking made possible by Ricardo Sanz's technical precision. There are sure to be many more in the future, as Madrid's cuisine is definitely going from strength to strength.
  67. 67. www.esmadrid.com/en/restaurants-madrid DAVID MUÑOZ @DiverXO Chef at DiverXo restaurant A favourite spot. Bravo Murillo, cultural fusion in a street with a fine old tradition. A secret treat. The Hammam Al Andalus Madrid baths (Atocha, 14). Your favourite Madrid dish? Cocido; the best is the one you can order from Antojo (Ferraz, 36). An area for tapas. Huertas. Your favourite place to eat or drink? Arzábal (Doctor Castelo, 2). Places you would recommend. Sudestada (Modesto Lafuente, 64) and O’Pazo (Reina Mercedes, 20). Your latest discovery. La Gastrocroquetería (Segovia, 17). PHOTOS PENDING OK os alr Ugiam, commy nim dui te conulput nibh ex er se feugiat. Ut autatis molortinim veliquat dolore conulla aut exeraesse euisi. TRY THIS A trip round the world in Lavapiés In recent years a fine selection of dishes from all over the globe have started cropping up on Madrid menus. This culinary journey round the world becomes a never-ending experience because of the enormous range of attractive and delicious food on offer. Spicy dishes from Mexico, grilled meat from Argentina, ceviche from Peru, plus arepas from Venezuela and Colombia are now part of everyday life in the city. The same applies to Japanese, Chinese, Thai and Indonesian food, which is increasingly available in all parts of the city. You can enjoy an authentic Indian tandoori in Lavapiés and choose the most exquisite sushi in Paseo de la Castellana, whether you're looking for an everyday meal or a special treat. Pasta prepared in genuine Neapolitan ovens, Scandinavian smoked fish, or hearty dishes from Russia - take your pick! www.esmadrid.com 069
  68. 68. EATING IN THE MARKET San Miguel and San Antón Madrid has taken snacks back to their roots, to the markets selling the top quality products used to make them, and pushed informal tapas to new heights. First in San Miguel market, next to Plaza Mayor, and now in San Antón, in Chueca, open multi-purpose spaces have been set up where you can do the week's shopping or join your friends for a bite to eat and a beer or a glass of wine. The unique buildings have been painstakingly refurbished, making them new city landmarks appreciated by residents and visitors alike. In both markets you can enjoy oysters in cava or grilled foie gras. Bite-sized portions of croquettes, mushrooms, Iberian cold meats ALEJANDRA ANSÓN @elite_gourmet Director of Elite Gourmet For a relaxed meal. La Tasquita de Enfrente (Ballesta, 6) or Ramõn Freixa (Claudio Coello, 67), depending on the day. A secret treat. White truffle at Don Giovanni (Reina Cristina, 23). A traditional dish. Tortilla at Támara (Av. América, 33). Any favourite tapa? Nino's little dishes at La Gabinoteca (Fernández de la Hoz, 53). The best view. From the La Terraza del Casino restaurant (Alcalá, 15). A hotel where you have a meal too? The Hotel Urban, thanks to Joaquín Felipe (Carrera de San Jerõnimo, 34). 070 www.esmadrid.com
  69. 69. DELICIOUS MARKETS. On this page the counter at one of the bars in San Miguel market. On the next page, two places to eat in San Antón market. www.esmadrid.com/cultura and cheese are available until the small hours, as are home-made ice cream, fresh fruit juice and designer cakes. QUICK SERVICE WITH NO SET TIMES When you visit Madrid you'll find you can eat very well without breaking the bank. Everyone is familiar with fast food but now many leading chefs are contributing ingenious ideas for a more balanced version. There is a demand for carefully prepared, healthy food using quality ingredients. There has been a city-wide boom in gourmet hamburgers, and the trend also applies to tacos, pizzas, hot dogs, filled baguettes and sandwiches. Fast food has been reinvented to satisfy the most demanding diner. JOSÉ CARLOS CAPEL @madridfusion Director of Madrid Fusión and food critic What does Madrid Fusiõn mean for the city? It has raised its profile around the world. What do they do best in Madrid? Pommes soufflés. The best cocido? Go to Charolés, in El Escorial (Floridablanca, 24). A place you'd recommend to friends visiting Madrid. The stage area in Teatriz restaurant (Hermosilla, 15). Your favourite tapa? The ham croquettes at El Quinto Vino (Hernani, 48). The most tempting food in Madrid. Fusion cuisine. Madrid and London are European pioneers in this field. www.esmadrid.com 071
  70. 70. DISTRICTS IN MADRID TO WHET YOUR APPETITE This is the start of your culinary journey through the main areas in the city centre, a route full of interesting flavours. THE LITERARY QUARTER The area round Plaza de Santa Ana and Calle de Huertas combines convenience and a Bohemian atmosphere. Its traditional taverns and modern gastrobars are ideal for a snack when shopping or visiting museums and theatres. LA LATINA A walk round the district is compulsory on Sundays but its bars are well worth visiting during the week, when they are less crowded. Enjoy regional dishes and generous snacks as you explore Calle Cava Baja. The district's little squares, with their lively open-air bars, are hard to resist on summer evenings. LAVAPIÉS The area's traditional past blends with its new international character. Aromas from all parts of the world waſt through its streets, bringing Oriental, Indian and North African cuisine to Madrid. Calle del Ave María is a good example, while the terraces in Argumosa are known as the district's "sea-front". SALAMANCA The district offers gourmet shops, tasting menus and outstanding wine bars. The area round Calle Serrano is home to vari- 072 www.esmadrid.com ous award-winning restaurants offering food to satisfy the most discerning palate. And there is no shortage of elegant bars where you can eat tapas or have tea while you take a breather from shopping. SALESAS The bars serving beer in Plaza de Santa Bárbara are the epicentre of a district featuring many aſter work bars and delicatessens. Old and well-established cafés such as El Espejo and Gijón, in Paseo de Recoletos, give the area a particularly distinguished air. MALASAÑA This lively young district has also kept up with the fascinating change in people's eating habits. With a wide range of takeaway food, retro-style cafés, vegetarian restaurants and cosy tea-rooms, it is also home to legendary tapas bars and restaurants serving international cuisine. CHUECA The San Antón market, with its splendid flat roof, has extended the impressive range of options available. Old established restaurants rub shoulders with brand new businesses run by young chefs. In the Vázquez de Mella area you'll find classic cocktails and exotic menus.
  71. 71. INTERNATIONAL. Above, from left to right, two Italian restaurants: La Mucca and La Tavernetta. Below, Happy Day bakery. * SET MENUS * Good, tasty and cheap. In Madrid you can eat very well on a tight budget. Most restaurants offer a set lunch, a filling meal consisting of two main courses, a dessert, bread and a drink at prices ranging from €10 to €20. The casas de comida are a particularly good option, serving both traditional and more modern fare, prepared with fresh market produce and served in a friendly, informal atmosphere that's popular with students, workers and travellers. When you come to Madrid, try to visit different districts so you can see for yourself how the huge variety of food on offer reflects their own, very individual characters. www.esmadrid.com 073
  72. 72. FOR THOSE WITH A SWEET TOOTH... Breakfast and tea As you walk round Madrid you'll be bombarded by many tempting aromas. The city has a strong tradition of baking that dates back for centuries. Traditional pastry specialities include pestiños, buñuelos de viento, huesos del Santo, rosquillas de San Isidro, torrijas (eaten at Easter), the roscón de Reyes (a ring-shaped cake eaten at Christmas), while recent additions include la corona de la Almudena, eaten during the festivities to honour the city's patron saint. Churros with hot chocolate are a very wellestablished old favourite, eaten mid-aſternoon to ward off the cold weather or early in the morning aſter a night on the town. They are also an integral part of many popular festivities. The thick drinking chocolate is much loved by children and adults alike, who delight in dunking their fried batter porras and lazos. SWEETLY SIDE BY SIDE. Madrid is home to traditional bakeries such as La Santiaguesa and new ventures like Buenas y Dulces, selling doughnuts and tea biscuits. 074 www.esmadrid.com
  73. 73. www.esmadrid.com/en/restaurants-madrid * DESSERTS * »COFFEE The smell of coffee fills bars and cafés from early morning until mid-afternoon. White at breakfast time and with just a drop of milk after lunch. »CUPCAKES Traditional fairy cakes are now decorated with ontrend fancy ingredients, like they do in English-speaking countries. »ICE CREAM Home-made, creamy and nutritious, this old favourite now features unusual new varieties. Though mostly eaten in summer, it's also popular in winter. »'ROSCÓN' Originally meant to be eaten at Epiphany, there are bakeries where this cake has been transformed into a work of art. CHOCOLATES AND SWEETS                . NEW TRENDS Madrid has a number of organic bakeries selling freshly-made croissants, which have made a big change to the early morning coffee ritual. The growing popularity of brunch in hotels and designer bars has made it a regular habit for many people at weekends. An increasing number of the city's residents are adopting the custom of having a British-style high tea in the aſternoon, eating cupcakes with multi-coloured toppings and pancakes with syrup and cream. www.esmadrid.com 075
  74. 74. LOVINGLY MIXED DRINKS. Barman Carlos Moreno, from Charly's Bar. THE AFTER WORK BOOM Cocktails in the centre In Madrid there's no need to wait for the weekend to enjoy the city's night life. It's become increasingly common for the Friday or Saturday night dinner plus drink routine to happen any evening from Monday to Thursday. There has been a remarkable increase in the number of establishments of all kinds catering for the aſter-work market. Customers can take advantage of attractive special deals on drinks and snacks to unwind aſter the day's work and chat to friends. Do you prefer a quiet cocktail bar or somewhere livelier? Does it depend on the day you've had? If you like cocktails, Gran Vía (the legendary Museo Chicote, for example) and the area behind it (Calle de la Reina) are a must. Fancy a gin & tonic? They serve fantastic mixed drinks in the Triball area. The list is never-ending and you'll be spoilt for choice all the way from Calle Almirante to Calle de Juan Bravo. 076 www.esmadrid.com MIKEL ITURRIAGA @mikeliturriaga Author of the blog El Comidista A relaxed meal. At Lúa (Zurbano, 85), haute cuisine with no fuss. A restaurant to impress someone. Nikkei 225: high class Japanese-Peruvian fusion (Castellana, 15). Favourite tapas? Rabas and salmorejo at El Pez Gordo (Pez, 6). A place to go to with friends. Home Burger (Espíritu Santo, 12). A drink to round the evening off? In Toni 2 (Almirante, 9). It's a parallel world.
  75. 75. WHAT’S ON FOOD & DRINK >>>>>> FOR FULL DETAILS GO TO www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid THE CALENDAR IS BRIMMING WITH DELICIOUS GASTRO NOMIC EVENTS HIGHLIGHTING THE FINEST FOOD FROM MADRID AND FROM ACROSS THE GLOBE. AND... MADRID FUSIØN This is the eleventh anniversary of the international event that turns Madrid into the gastronomy capital of the world, with the presence of internationally acclaimed chefs. In Pavilion 14.1 at IFEMA. From 21 to 23 January. SALØN GOURMET A meeting point for manufacturers and consumers of highend food products. A showcase event for top quality food and drink, attracting buyers from all over the world. Feria de Madrid. From 8 to 11 April. SOCIAL MENU Gastrofestival A festival of the senses Coinciding with Madrid Fusión, the city also hosts Gastrofestival, a culinary and cultural event with a packed programme of activities inviting everyone to enjoy Madrid's many flavours. Leading chefs prepare special menus at attractive prices for the popular Dinners with the Stars and fashion designers present their own special creations in Gastrofashion. The event, now in its third year, also includes tastings and courses, and is enthusiastically supported by restaurants, museums, art galleries, markets and delicatessens. >WHEN: From 19 January to 3 February 2013. is a unique opportunity to enjoy fine food at exceptionally low prices. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: This Restaurants supporting Restaurant Week, an initiative that first started in New York in 1992, will be serving menus at especially attractive prices. Not only are they making restaurants more accessible, they are also supporting charitable causes. March and November. www.esmadrid.com 077
  76. 76. "Madrid is full of temptations" RAMÓN FREIXA COOK @RamonFreixa He is one of the leading lights of the Catalonian school living in Madrid. The restaurant bearing his name has earned itself two Michelin stars in record time. Lxs cursivxs nx cxgxn lxs xcxntxs What does Madrid taste of? Diversity. What's been the greatest improvement in the last few years? The fresh vitality brought in by the new set of chefs. What about the new markets? A genuine resurgence. I always say that San Miguel is ideal for tapas, and in San Antón they've succeeded in combining tapas and shopping. What's your favourite authentic Madrid dish? Tripe and 'broken' fried eggs. For dessert? Desserts are getting better all the time. You can see it happening in bakeries like Oriol Balaguer (José Ortega y Gasset, 44) and Pomme Sucre (Barquillo, 49). 078 www.esmadrid.com Your latest discovery? The Don Lay Chinese restaurant (Paseo de Extremadura, 30). Which places do you recommend to your friends? A walk in El Retiro Park and, for shopping, the Malasaña and Salamanca districts. Where do you go to buy a giſt? Isolée is a good choice, with lots to choose from (Infantas, 19). For flowers, I go to Floreale (Luis Vives, 5). The best place to round off an evening with a drink? I'd name three: Dry Martini by Javier de las Muelas (Hermosilla, 2), O'Clock (Juan Bravo, 25) and Le Cabrera (Bárbara de Braganza, 2). The most tempting thing in Madrid? Madrid is full of temptations.
  77. 77. SHOPPING 80-97 WHATEVER YOUR STYLE, WE HAVE SOMETHING TO SUIT ALL TASTES. 8081 SERRANO 8283 GRAN VÍA / SOL 8485 RASTRO FLEA MARKET 8687 SALESAS, TRIBALL AND THE LITERARY QUARTER 8889 HITTING THE MARKETS 9091 BACK TO MADRID'S ROOTS 92 OUTLET CHIC 93 SHOPPING MAP 9495 WHAT'S ON 9697 INTERVIEW Maribel Verdú
  78. 78. ARTE Y CULTURA SHOPPING The best of each neighbourhood EACH AREA HAS ITS OWN PERSONALITY. THE MOST CHIC BRANDS ARE IN SALAMANCA; THE LATEST TRENDS, IN SALESAS; TRADITIONAL BOUTIQUES, ON GRAN VÍA... WHAT'S MORE, MADRID IS OPEN 365 DAYS A YEAR. SERRANO Come to the street of temptations Madrid's most fashion-conscious zone is found in Calle Serrano and the surrounding streets. A long, formal and traditional street, its pavements, which have been replaced and widened for the comfort of pedestrians, are flanked by the largest collection of leading fashion brands. From the 080 www.esmadrid.com majestic presence of Ortega y Gasset to the chic elegance of Jorge Juan and its alleyways. A stroll through the Salamanca neighbourhood, shopping bags in hand, is a traditional pastime for residents of Madrid and a temptation for visitors dazzled by the vast array of objects of desire on display.
  79. 79. STREETS WITH RENOWN               . , ,         . SALAMANCA DISTRICT 01. Museum of Public Art 02. Carlos de Amberes Foundation 03. La Paz Market 04. Loewe 05. El Jardín de Serrano 06. Plaza de Colõn 07. Callejõn de Jorge Juan 08. Colõn Tourist Center 09. Teatro Fernán Gõmez 10. National Library 11. Archaeological Museum Famous jewellers, international boutiques, great designer brands and interior decoration stores, traditional artisanal shops and various delicatessens offer numerous opportunities to find the perfect giſt. Spanish fashion deserves special attention, having taken Calle Serrano and the surrounding area by storm during recent decades with a lively presence that has ensured the neighbourhood is a permanent point of interest. The retail and leisure options here are constantly updated, and there are numerous first-class cafés, outdoor bars and restaurants, all of which can now also be enjoyed on Sundays. www.esmadrid.com 081
  80. 80. SHOPPING www.esmadrid.com/en/shopping-madrid GRAN VÍA / SOL The main commercial arteries of Madrid From Monday to Sunday, life in central Madrid's neighbourhoods is a constant bustle of people and action. And all roads lead to the century-old Gran Vía. It has junctions leading onto many other streets, a large number of which are pedestrianized, allowing millions of residents and visitors to discover the brightest, most fascinating side of the city. While its first section is more traditional, lined with emblematic boutiques, cocktail bars and grand hotels, Gran Vía is transformed at the Red de San Luis junction. This is due to the modern influence of Calle de Fuencarral. Here, the flagship stores of firstrate international brands occupy immense premises in historic buildings in a show WINDOW-SHOPPING ROUTE. Two examples of the varied retail options Madrid has to offer. This page: The classic store Grassy Jewellers. Opposite: Fuencarral's modern look. 082 www.esmadrid.com of lights and colours that attracts all passers-by. This spectacle continues from Plaza del Callao where it meets Calle Preciados. Pioneering in its restrictions on traffic circulation, it is still the busiest street in Spain. At the other end of the district, the Puerta del Sol branches off into Mayor and Arenal streets, renewed in recent years by the opening of establishments that blend in perfectly with neighbourhood classics. There is so much to choose from that we need to retrace our steps to make sure we don't miss anything. This district is truly the beating heart of Madrid.

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