Guia de Madrid en Español

1. Ideas for your next visit
a way of life
*********
www.esmadrid.com
a way of life

2. Much more than shopping
in the heart of Madrid.
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C A S T E L L A N A M A D R I D S PA I N

3. MADRID
A way of life
Madrid is a city strongly focused on tourism. Its streets breathe vitality, art and culture, inviting
anyone who visits to arrange plans difficult to imagine in any other Spanish or international
destination. The number of annual visitors to the city now exceeds 8 million. They come to
enjoy this diverse and multi-faceted metropolis whose appeal never ceases to grow thanks to
the drive for excellence within the tourism sector along with the constantly expanding leisure
options and a complete overhaul of the cultural calendar.
The local government is committed to promoting and raising awareness of its cultural heritage
and of the plethora of shopping, culinary, hotel and leisure options Madrid has to offer. This
commitment translates into initiatives such as the publication of this guide, in which you learn
many reasons why this city has become one of the five most visited capital cities in Europe.
The 170 plus pages contained in this guide to promote Madrid reveal the city’s many tourist
attractions, some of which are unique. Its readers will discover that Madrid has a beach, to be
found in Madrid Rio, the new green heart of the city centre, or that each district has its own
identity, and that Madrid has restored several of its major historical cultural locations, such as
CentroCentro, Matadero Madrid and the Conde Duque centre. Other aspects of Madrid you will
discover in this guide include the Art Walk, which never closes; and other facts, such as that
culture is thriving on the streets, manifested in a thousand different ways; that in few places is
it as easy as in this city to find nature forming part of the urban landscape; that it is possible
to sample fine cuisine, either from Spain or from any other corner of the world. Also note that
there are traditional marketplaces and signature state-of-the-art markets where you can call
in for a bite; that the outdoor cafés are not just for summer; that shopping is more convenient
thanks to the pedestrian areas; that it is possible to sleep in palaces, or in charming hotels; or
that Madrid is just a short journey away from many other UN Heritage sites.
The modern, sustainable and leading-edge capital that Madrid has become could not miss
the opportunity to promote its tourist attractions with an innovative guide, like the one you
now have in your hands. This is a practical guide with plans for every month of the year, for
every day of the week and for every hour of the day, to suit everyone’s pocket, taste or mood.
Because this is Madrid: a diverse city which constantly innovates and reinvents itself to delight
and satisfy anyone in search of a different lifestyle.
www.esmadrid.com
003

4. ART AND CULTU-
ON THE ROOFTOPS
Reach up to the sky
from the terrace of
the Hotel Urban.
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5. a way of life
010 About Madrid
Our tourist information services
are here to help you make the
most of your visit.
015. Highlights
Published by: Madrid Visitors & Convention
Bureau (Madrid MV&CB).
Deputy Mayor's Office.
Madrid City Council.
Chairperson: Miguel Ángel Villanueva.
CEO: Ignacio Fernández. Managing Director:
Mar de Miguel. Head of Tourist Promotion
and Destination Management: Miguel Sanz.
Director of Publications and Content: Carlos
Menéndez Editing: Silvia Roba, Ignacio Vleming,
Isabel Morales, Fernando Pretus, Anne-Lise
Leclerc, Judith Grayland. Marketing: Caroline
Tensi and Verónica Casares. Director of
Business Development: Mercedes Posada.
Production:
La Factoría.
Valentín Beato, 48 – 3ª planta.
28037 Madrid. Tel.No.: 915 386 118
Director of La Factoría: Virginia Lavín.
Assistant director: Javier Olivares. Project
Manager: Ángel L. Esteban. Original design and
Art direction: José Antonio Gutiérrez. Layout
Manager: Pedro Díaz Ayala. Texts: Txema
Ybarra, Anabel Vázquez, Beatriz H. Cembellín,
Francis Pachá, Claudio Martín, Rosana Torres,
Gloria Montero. Print edition: Paola Pérez
(director), Rosa García Villarrubia, Ángel Manzano.
Photography: Luis Rubio, Chus Eto, Alberto
Ortega, Roberto Iván Cano, Adolfo Callejo, Javier
Morán, Ofelia de Pablo, Juan Lafita, Daniel Alea,
Alfredo Arias, Javier Mantrana, AGE FOTOSTOCK,
CORDON PRESS, EFE, EL PAIS, FOTOTECA, GETTY
IMAGES, IBERIMAGE, FIROFOTO Madrid VCB.
Illustrations: Jaime Martínez (main maps p.6-7,
p.40-41, p.134-135), Alberto García (route maps).
Production Director: Francisco Alba.
Printing: Palgraphic.
Legal Deposit: M-48914-2011.
Cover: Royal Palace
Photo: © Paolo Giocoso/SIME/FOTOTECA
The information may have been modified
after this edition went to press. Readers can find updated
information on the website www.esMADRID.com.
12 essentials for 2013, a monthby-month report on the events you
shouldn’t miss this year.
023. 7 days / 7 plans
There are a thousand and one
things to do in Madrid every day
of the week. Check out these
plans we’ve organized to suit your
preferences or mood.
039. Take your pick
Suggestions for all the family in
Madrid’s enchanting districts
and neighbourhoods.
039. ART & CULTURE
Discover the Art Walk, Royal
Madrid, the Golden Age, new
locations, galleries and the major
urban landmarks.
063. FOOD & DRINK
Savour the most traditional
dishes and the latest signature
cuisine; delight in the art of
snacking on tapas washed down
with a glass of wine or beer; and
make the most of the cocktail
trend which is all the rage.
079. SHOPPING
Something for everyone, at
affordable prices, any day of
the week. Wander the streets
of Madrid as you shop to your
heart’s content.
099. FUN & GAMES
By day, in the evening or at night.
Sports, shows and nights that
turn into mornings.
121. AS A FAMILY
The big city takes care of
entertainment for the youngest
members of the family. There
is a whole world waiting to be
discovered.
133. GREEN MADRID
Historical parks, secret gardens,
pedestrian areas and sunsets.
145. GAYFRIENDLY MADRID
Madrid welcomes everyone and
is noted as a global example of
diversity.
153. SLEEPING
A great variety of options for an
unforgettable stay.
161. DAY TRIPS
Short excursions around Madrid
and high-speed getaways by AVE
to major Spanish cities.
167. Services
Access by air, rail and road.
City transport, weather,
opening hours, bank holidays,
accessibility, where to find Wifi
areas and several maps of
Madrid to help you get around
the city as you please.
LG
BT
ART & CULTURE
FOOD & DRINK
SHOPPING
LEISURE
LUXURY
FAMILY
GREEN
LGBT
SLEEPING
DAY TRIPS

6. 54.
CONDE DUQUE
109/138.
PRINCESA
102/122/136.
CASA DE CAMPO
For a day out with
the family, come
and discover Madrid’s
green lung.
Museums, wine bars,
alfresco dining and
trendy shopping
around the former
Barracks.
Shopping, films in their
original language and
tree-lined avenues,
from Moncloa to
Plaza de España.
51/84/106/141.
GRAN VÍA/SOL
Pedestrian areas and
musicals invade the
city centre’s main
shopping street.
44/70/72/116/139.
HAPSBURG
DISTRICT
Relive the history of the
city as you wander the
streets, from Plaza Mayor to the Royal Palace.
57/102/134.
MADRID RÍO
Discover the city's
newest green area
- it's great for walking
and cycling.
65/72/82/116/118.
LA LATINA
The epitome of the art of
the tapa. The little squares
and taverns are always
packed to the brim.

7. 139.
CHAMBERÍ
Small palaces, public
squares, good restaurants and art galleries.
Savour the local life.
56/100.
CASTELLANA
From Colón to the
Cuatro Torres, calling in
at the Bernabéu; this
avenue has it all.
70/72/139/141.
MALASAÑA
You’ll be blown away by
its alternative scene, by
day and night.
49/70/84.
SALESAS
72/80.
SALAMANCA
Shopping around
Serrano is an unmissable experience.
A modernist style and
elegant atmosphere.
Pubs, shopping and
charming streets.
70/72/146
CHUECA
Diversity is the name of
the game in this welcoming neighbourhood which reinvents
itself constantly.
103/122/136.
RETIRO
A green oasis in the
heart of the city. Walk,
cycle or skate around it.
40/154.
THE ART WALK
46/72/84.
LITERARY
QUARTER
69/72/116.
LAVAPIÉS
From Cibeles to Atocha,
the city’s most important museums flank
this beautiful tree-lined
boulevard.
A host of possibilities
suggest themselves
as you walk from
Plaza de Santa Ana
to Calle Huertas.
The most exotic
flavours in this most
traditional of
neighbourhoods. A
multicolor atmosphere.
www.esmadrid.com
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8. un estilo de vida
The best of Madrid on your iPad
FREE FROM THE APP STORE*
Whatever your tastes,
this is where you'll find
all the latest in art,
culture, gastronomy,
night life, new venues,
family activities, sport,
LGBT, and much more.
Get ‘guíaMadrid12’
from the App Store.
*Application only available in Spanish.
For the online version in English go to:
www.esmadrid.com/madridguide
8
www.esmadrid.com

10. TOURIST
INFORMATION
OFFICES
If you're coming to enjoy a few days in
Madrid remember that, as a tourist, you
have a wealth of resources at your fingertips, from information centres and websites
through to a wide range of benefits
and routes for exploring the city.
TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES
PLAZA MAYOR TOURIST CENTER
Plaza Mayor, 27
(Casa de la Panadería. Ground Floor)
Tel. 91 454 44 10.
Mon-Sun: 9.30am-8.30pm
turismo@esmadrid.com
The first stop for tourists arriving in Madrid is the central
tourist information office in Plaza Mayor. This modern centre located in Casa de la Panadería has everything you need
to know about the capital's cultural and leisure attractions
and can supply you with all kinds of information. Services
include specialist assistance, ticket sales for the Official
Guided Tours programme, a Remember Madrid point with
information about the various tourist loyalty programmes,
self-service consultation, technology area (audiovisual information, free Internet access, Wifi zone, free downloadable
audioguides, personalised leaflets and virtual map), special
service points providing information in Asian languages and
Russian, as well as a range of accessible services.
COLÓN TOURIST CENTER
Located in a former underground passage between Calle Génova and Calle Goya
Mon-Sun: 9.30am-8.30pm
This tourist office provides the following services: face-
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to-face and specialist assistance, self-service consultation, Remember Madrid (information on tourist loyalty
programmes run by Madrid City Council), technology area
(audiovisual information, free Internet access and Wifi
zone) and a Learn Spanish information point with specific
information for people interested in learning the language.
An outdoor screen in the middle of the street displays a
daily city and cultural calendar.
OTHER INFORMATION POINTS
*Plaza de Cibeles
*Plaza del Callao
*Paseo del Arte (on Calle Santa Isabel, next to the
Reina Sofía Museum).
*Madrid-Barajas Airport: Terminal 2 (arrivals hall) and
Terminal 4 (arrival halls 10 and 11).

11. SATE
FOREIGN TOURIST
ASSISTANCE SERVICE
Leganitos, 19
Incidents Tel. 902 10 21 12
Mon-Sun: 9am-12 midnight
satemadrid@esmadrid.com
SATE offers foreign tourists visiting the city personalised
assistance in the event of any incident that requires them
to visit a police station. The service is operated by specialist staff. Tourists are given help with reporting the incident
and with completing any other paperwork relating to their
situation. Visitors and their families are also offered counselling if they need it.
LOYALTY PROGRAMMES
Taking part in the loyalty programmes run by Madrid City
Council gives you the chance to discover the city in a different and enjoyable way. When you join the Discover Madrid
Club and take part in the Official Guided Tours programme,
you'll also be eligible to enjoy a series of additional benefits. Snap Madrid gives you two routes for photographing
monuments and suggested locations, and Snap Madrid Río
takes in a series of bridges over the Manzanares River.
Once you've completed them, you get a souvenir of the
city. A tour specially designed for families, Madrid: A Family
Experience, enables parents and children to discover Madrid through educational games and puzzles while they follow three self-guided routes. Visitors who register on the
database will also be kept up to date on all the news and
tourist products that match their profile.
www.esmadrid.com
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12. OFFICIAL GUIDED TOURS
All year round and as part of its Official Guided Tours
programme, Madrid City Council runs a wide variety of
sightseeing tours in different languages (Spanish, English,
French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Japanese and Dutch).
You can choose from:
*Routes by bike
*Family tours and storytellers
*Unmissable:
-Essential Madrid I: Hapsburg and La Latina
-Essential Madrid II: Cervantes and the Literary Quarter
-Essential Madrid III: El Retiro and the Art Walk
*Specially adapted tours for people with physical, sensory
or intellectual disabilities
Whenever you see this
stamp in the magazine, it means there
is a guided tour that
passes the exact spot
mentioned on that
page.
Find out more about the Official Guided Tours programme, prices and sales points on:
www.esmadrid.com/officialguidedtours
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ESMADRIDMAGAZINE
A free monthly publication in Spanish and English, featuring the highlights from the month's cultural calendar, plus
interviews and reports on Madrid's temporary and permanent entertainment options. You can pick up a copy of the
magazine at any of the city's tourist centres and information points, as well as in leading hotels, restaurants, shops
and cultural centres. It is also available for download from
www.esmadrid.com/en/esmadridmagazine

13. MADRID CITY TOUR
Madrid City Tour is probably one of the simplest and most
comfortable ways of getting a feel for the city. All you have
to do is buy a ticket, hop on the bus, put your headphones
on to listen to the audioguide, sit back and enjoy the
streets, monuments and places of interest, with the advantage that you can hop off wherever you feel like it. Tickets
are valid for one or two days, depending on your chosen
rate, and you can get on and off the bus as many times
as you like along route one, route two or both. Madrid City
Tour has audioguides in 14 languages (Spanish, English,
French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Russian, Japanese,
Dutch, Chinese, Arabic, Catalan, Basque and Galician)
Tel. 902 02 47 58 (24 h)
Times: March-October: 9am-10pm
November-February: 10am-6pm
Ticket sales: buses, hotels, travel agencies, MCT
Information Centre (Calle Felipe IV, next to the Prado
Museum) and on www.madridcitytour.es
More information and prices:
www.esmadrid.com/en/madridcitytour
Sol. The final stretch rejoins Paseo del Prado and takes
you to the Botanical Gardens, then on to the Reina Sofía
and Thyssen-Bornemisza museums. The extended version
of this route, which runs twice a day (4.40pm and 8.40pm),
goes to Madrid Río and the Moncloa area.
ROUTE TWO
The second Madrid City Tour option starts at the same
place, next to the Prado Museum, but in this case it travels
along the city's main arteries, Castellana, Prado and Recoletos, and through neighbouring streets. One of the most
spectacular buildings lining this route is Cibeles Palace, but
there are other striking landmarks in the Castellana area
as well, such as Marqués de Salamanca Palace, Nuevos
Ministerios, the AZCA shopping centre and the Santiago
Bernabéu football stadium. The bus also passes through
the Salamanca district, with its designer boutiques and
the Lázaro Galdiano Museum. Finally, the route takes in
Puerta del Sol and the Spanish parliament building, Congreso de los Diputados, before arriving at the last stop in
Plaza de Neptuno. This second route also operates an extended version twice a day (4.50pm and 8.50pm), which
includes these sights plus the new Cuatro Torres Business
Area, with the city's tallest buildings, before returning via
Las Ventas bullring.
WWW.ESMADRID.COM
Madrid City Council's website is packed with everything
you need to know about tourism, leisure and business in
the city. This essential guide offers detailed information
about services, monuments, museums and other must-visit
places, together with a comprehensive tourist information
database (hotels, restaurants, shops, etc.) and a calendar
of cultural events taking place in Madrid (exhibitions, theatre, sport and much more).
ROUTE ONE
Calle Felipe IV, next to the Prado Museum, is the starting
point for this route that takes you to Puerta de Alcalá, followed by the Prado-Recoletos artery, the location of the
Neptuno and Cibeles fountains, before continuing up Gran
Vía. The bus travels along this main thoroughfare towards
Plaza de España, passing in front of the Temple of Debod,
until it reaches the old part of the city, where you'll discover
the Royal Palace, La Almudena Cathedral and Puerta del
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14. MADRIDSHOP
Plaza Mayor, 27
Tel. 91 541 01 85
Mon-Sun: 9.30am-8.30pm
MadridShop is the city's official store. Inside, it is designed
to represent and promote Madrid life and place it within
visitors' reach. The shop interior features recycled, sustainable and energy-saving materials that are environmentally-friendly and is completely accessible to people with
reduced mobility. You can find the perfect memento of your
trip here: music, books, audiovisual items and much more.
This is also the place to get your MadridCard, the essential
city pass.
MADRIDCARD
Have the city at your fingertips with MadridCard.
The key to discovering secrets of the city. This sightseeing pass enables you to make your way around Ma-
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drid easily, enjoyably and with minimum fuss. For a very
reasonable price, it entitles you to discounts in shops
and restaurants, on the Essential Madrid tour in the Official Guided Tours programme, and on entry fees to
over 50 museums. You also get preferential entry to the
Prado and Reina Sofía museums, the Royal Palace, the
Bernabéu Tour and the Wax Museum, which saves you
having to queue. Along with this tourist card, you get a
guide in Spanish, English, Italian, German and French
with a map of the city and everything you need to know
about MadridCard partner museums, services and establishments (restaurants, cafés and shops). Depending
on the fee you choose to pay, MadridCard can be used
for 24, 48, 72 or 120 hours. Special children’s prices
available. You can buy MadridCard in the MadridShop,
located inside the Plaza Mayor tourist office, and on
the Internet.
See more information on www.madridcard.com.

15. WHAT'S ON
16-21
IT'S OFFICIAL: YOU SIMPLY
CAN'T GET BORED IN
MADRID YOU'LL ALWAYS
HAVE THE BEST CHOICE OF
THINGS TO DO IN YOUR SPARE
TIME: ART, THEATRE, MUSIC,
SCIENCE, SPORT, SHOPPING
AND MUCH, MUCH MORE.
HERE ARE 12 EXAMPLES
OF WHAT YOU COULD BE
DOING IN 2013.

16. Highlights
GET OUT YOUR DIARY AND MAKE A NOTE: MADRID OFFERS
YOU AN UNMISSABLE EVENT FOR EVERY MONTH OF THE
YEAR. YOU'LL FIND ALL KINDS OF THINGS, FROM CULTURE
AND SPORT THROUGH TO FOOD AND DRINK.
>>>>>>
KEEP UP WITH IT ALL ON www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid
ANUARY
Quick, the sales are on!
When the Christmas lights are switched
off and the city seems to go into winter hibernation, along come the sales to liven up
the streets again (sometimes even earlier).
At this time of year everyone flocks to the
shops in Gran Vía, Serrano and Salesas
(page 80), a ritual that is repeated with
the arrival of summer and the change of
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season. You'll also find attractive discounts
all year round in outlet centres such as Las
Rozas Village (page 92) and in themed
street markets.
>WHEN: From
7 January.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS THEM: You'll
best prices on the best products.
get the

17. EBRUARY
Passion for collecting
at ARCOmadrid
This year, Spain's largest contemporary
art fair is expected to attract 200 galleries and 3,000 artists from all over the
world, offering a tour of the latest art
trends. Now's the time to make a start on
your own collection.
>WHEN: From
13 to 17 February.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: Amazing
art
coupled with some fantastic activities.
ARCH
The Real opera house
hits the high notes
As they do every season, the Teatro Real opera
house is organising a full operatic programme
that this year includes a performance of Les
pêcheurs de perles (The Pearl Fishers), one of
Bizet’s most exotic operas. Famous tenor Juan
Diego Flórez will be singing the role of Nadir,
a fisherman passionately in love. This three-act
opera is conducted by Daniel Oren. Mozart’s
Don Giovanni is due to be staged in April.
>WHEN: 25,
28 and 31 March.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The
quality of
the show and the grandeur of the stage.
www.esmadrid.com
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18. PRIL
The pace picks up at
the Madrid Marathon
Commonly known as Mapoma, this year the
race is part of the Rock 'n' Roll Marathon
Series, the world's biggest city running circuit. Are you up for it? There will be live
music on over 20 stages, plus a finish line
concert.
>WHEN: 28
April.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It
will be an
entertainment-packed route, with music
and performances.
AY
Tennis aces
Since 2009, the Mutua Madrid Open has
been the fiſth Masters 1000 event of
the year. Winners of last year’s tournament were Roger Federer and Serena
Williams; in 2011 victory went to Novak
Djokovic and Petra Kvitova, and in 2010
the event was won by Rafael Nadal and
Aravane Rezai. Tickets on sale at www.
madrid-open.com
>WHEN: From
3 to 12 May.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It's
one of the key
tournaments on the ATP calendar.
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19. UNE
The focus is on
PHotoEspaña
In partnership with museums, art galleries
and other cultural centres, this ambitious festival shows audiovisual work from all over
the world, combining daring and quality in a
heartfelt tribute to photography. You have
two months to see it.
>WHEN: 5
June to 28 July.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The
whole city is a
showcase for the work of top photographers.
ULY
The great Gay
Pride march
Every year the LGBT Pride festival draws hundreds of thousands of people to the city.
A huge party at which everyone is welcome, it
comes packed with opening speeches, live concerts and lots more. The most eagerly-awaited
event is the Gay Pride parade, which runs along
Calle Alcalá and Gran Vía (page 147).
>WHEN: From
3 to 7 July.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The last two years
have been billed as the best gay event in the world.
www.esmadrid.com
019

20. UGUST
Veranos de la Villa festival
Over its 31 years of existence, the Veranos
de la Villa festival has become an essential
date on Madrid's cultural calendar during
the hot summer months, with a series of openair evening performances bringing a welcome
breath of fresh air.
>WHEN: June-August.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: You'll get the chance
to see star performers in unique settings.
EPTEMBER
'Deco' festival
The Literary Quarter puts on its finery
for a few days in September. Streets and
shops dress up to celebrate DecorAcción,
an event focusing on art and decoration
characterised by urban intervention.
Shop windows move out onto the street
and make their mark in a brilliant Antiques
Market.
>WHEN: September.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: You can find some
really unusual decorative items.
020
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21. CTOBER
Architecture Week
Guided tours of buildings, exhibitions and workshops are just a few
of the activities on offer during Architecture Week, when you can get
a feel for Madrid's built heritage (page 51). Equally interesting are
the talks and lectures taking place during the event, given by leading
international architects.
>WHEN: October.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It's
a great chance to discover hidden gems.
ECEMBER
It's Christmas
time
When December rolls around, Christmas traditions envelop the streets and many take on a modern look.
Watch bright lights coming on at dusk, smell the aroma of roasted chestnuts waſting through the air and
join the bustling shopping centres full of people on the
lookout for the best giſts, as Madrid pulls out all the
stops for the merriest time of the year (page 132).
OVEMBER
Madrid gets jazz fever
>WHEN: Until
6 January.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: Its
old spirit lives on.
Open your ears to all kinds of sounds, from bebop to
Latin beats. The Madrid International Jazz Festival is a
journey through music across the globe, from north to south,
east to west, featuring live performances by big-name
artists on the various stages spread over the whole city.
>WHEN: November.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The
programme includes
some great virtuosos.
www.esmadrid.com
021

22. _
TRADE FAIRS AND CONGRESSES

23. 7 PLANS
24-37
ITINERARIES TO
MATCH YOUR MOOD.
FOR SUNNY OR GREY
DAYS, WHETHER YOU
WAKE UP CRAVING SOME
CLEAN AIR, WITH AN
URGE TO GO SHOPPING OR
TO HAVE FUN WITH YOUR
CHILDREN. HERE ARE
SOME IDEAS TO SUIT
EVERYONE’S TASTE.

24. 7
Plan your day to suit your mood
IF YOU WAKE UP TO BLUE SKIES
IT’S A KNOWN FACT THAT THE LIGHT IN MADRID IS SPECTACULAR. ADMIRE THE
COLOURS OF EL RETIRO, DISCOVER THE PASEO DEL PRADO, TAKE A CULTU
RAL STROLL THROUGH THE CITY’S STREETS AND ENJOY A SPECTACULAR SUNSET.
Greenery
01
01. Oxygen in El Retiro
Wake up at your own pace
 
A day that begins under the trees in
El Retiro can not end too badly. Roam
around this enormous park at your leisure. If
you enjoy walking, why not ramble along its
paths? If you prefer running, jog along the
track around the park. If skating’s your thing,
the Paseo de Coches is the place for you. An
hour in the park will provide you with enough
oxygen and endorphins for the rest of the week.
Art
02. A morning at the Reina
Sofía and the Prado
Half morning visits
 
Both museums are open on Mondays. The pioneer was the Reina Sofia.
Of course, you can visit Picasso’s Guernica
on permanent display here, but also check
out its programme of temporary exhibitions.
Find some time to spend in La Central, one of
Madrid’s finest bookshops. It’s always a good
idea to add a visit to the Prado to your Monday
schedule, an ideal day for peacefully browsing through its vast exhibition rooms.
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02

25. Gastromoment
03. Curry or ginger?
Multicultural ingredients
. 
All this culture can make you hungry.
You can satisfy it very close by in
Lavapiés, where you will find some
of Madrid’s best ethnic restaurants.
Along Calle Ave María is a variety of Thai,
Indian and Lebanese restaurants, all as
affordable as they are delicious.
More culture
04. Aſternoon in the
Mapfre centre
Visit, observe and tell
everyone about it
 
Take a stroll from Lavapiés to
Recoletos. Walk along the Paseo del
Prado to burn off your lunch until you reach
your destination: the nineteenth century
palace, home to the Mapfre Foundation. This
intimate venue organises some extraordinary temporary exhibitions. Monday is
the quietest day. If you happen to be visiting
an exhibition at this time of the aſternoon,
you are certainly doing something right.
03
Tapas time
05. An evening in
Las Salesas
A trendy sunset
 
If your task of the day has been to
become inspired by the city, it is now
time to rest. The streets around the Salesas
neighbourhood are a meeting place, as
evening draws in, for designers, journalists
and local residents. On practically every corner you will find a place to enjoy a cocktail,
sip a wine from Madrid or nibble on a
slice of Spanish omelette, which every bar
claims to make better than anyone else.
04
05
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26. 7
WALKING IN THE RAIN
MADRID BOASTS MANY DAYS OF SUNLIGHT DURING THE
YEAR, BUT IF YOU ARE CAUGHT OUT IN THE RAIN, THIS ISN’T
A PROBLEM SINCE THERE ARE A PLETHORA OF OPTIONS TO
MAKE YOUR DAY JUST AS BRIGHT.
01
Important
01. Buy yourself
an umbrella
And make it a stylish one
 
Casa de Diego, in Puerta del Sol, has
been selling the finest umbrellas since
1858, like the ones Mary Poppins used, in
addition to shawls, fans and castanets.
Shopping
03
02. Strolling along
Preciados
Free from the disturbance
of traffic
. 
This is the most traditional shopping
street in Madrid, pedestrianised for
hassle-free window shopping, which is
much appreciated, especially on rainy days. Seek
refuge in any of the nearby department stores.
Snacking
03. San Miguel market
Gourmet tastings
 
An open-plan covered market, and an
emblem of culinary delights since
its recent restoration. Here you will find
oyster stalls, cheese counters and sweet sellers.
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27. After lunch
04. Fine Arts Circle
Goldfish Bowl
A city centre vantage
point
04
05
. 
The storm is brewing. Watch the
hustle and bustle of the Calle
Alcalá, through the immense windows
of the long-established coffee house
at the Fine Arts Circle. The coming and
going of vehicles and passers-by is a
sight worth seeing. Take the opportunity
to visit some of the interesting art and
photographic exhibitions programmed throughout the year.
Theatre
05. Drama and comedy
Madrid takes the stage
 
Classics and contemporary plays,
laughter and tears, performance art
and musicals, stand-up comics and international shows; all the great names in
acting make an appearance on the stage
of Madrid’s theatres. The bigger theatres
usually have more seats available on
week days; take the opportunity to book
your seat and enjoy the show.
www.esmadrid.com
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28. 7
TODAY YOU ARE FEELING GREEN
FOLLOWING IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF MADRID RIO YOU CAN VISIT
UP TO SEVEN PARKS, EACH ONE OFFERING A WORLD TO DISCO
VER, A FAMILY DAY OUT OR A GREAT CYCLING EXPERIENCE.
Breakfast
01. Neighbourhood spirit
Arganzuela Park
 
Start the day in any of the cafés
that flank the park’s entrance while
contemplating the city as it awakes before your stroll or bicycle ride.
Science
02. A 3D Universe
Tierno Galván Park
. 
If you continue along the leſt bank
of the Manzanares River you will see
the Planetarium and the dome of the
Imax, where spectacular 3D documentaries are shown in its morning sessions.
With a view
03. Picnic on the peak
Linear Park of the
Manzanares River
 
In addition to its fantastic cycle
track, it offers splendid views over
the city. We suggest you stop for a picnic
under the shade of the Lady of the
Manzanares by Manolo Valdés.
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01
03

29. Sport
04. Ballcourts, climbing
wall and skates
Matadero Park
 
To burn off your lunch, make your
way to the Legazpi district, the
perfect place for sports enthusiasts
to practice any kind of activities,
from cycling and skate boarding to rock
climbing. Matadero (pg 48) is a mustvisit for art and culture lovers.
04
05
05
Patron Saint
05. Visit the shrine
Pradera de San Isidro
. 
If you visit during the festival
period (May) you can witness the
most quintessential side of the city. If not,
the shrine, a perennial icon of popular
tradition, is an agreeable and peaceful
place. One of its curiosities is that is offers
a Mozarabic mass on Sundays at midday
and on Tuesdays at 5.30 pm.
For dining out
06. A memorable evening
Casa de Campo Park
. 
Not many people know this,
but in Madrid’s immense country
park there is also a Culinary Route,
with top class restaurants to suit
everyone’s pocket.
Drinks
07
07. The origins of Madrid
Atenas Park
 
Just by Puente de Segovia, and
at the foot of the Arabic wall, its
famous outdoor café is a popular haunt
in summer when the sun goes down. In
winter, you could opt for one of the cafés
or bars in the nearby Vistillas or on
Cuesta de la Vega.
www.esmadrid.com
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30. 7
INCORRIGIBLE URBANITES
IN MADRID, IN ANY STREET IN THE CITY CENTRE YOU WILL
FIND THE LATEST TRENDS, AND ON ANY NIGHT THERE ARE
PLENTY OF PEOPLE AROUND TO GUARANTEE A GOOD
TIME. A TIP: GO OUT ON THE TOWN ON THURSDAYS.
01
02
With a view
01.A breakfast for champions
Plaza de la Independencia
 
A slice of toasted baguette with
tomato and olive oil, accompanied by
coffee or tea will provide you with the energy you
need for the day. Or, if you prefer, croissants and
madeleines. You can breakfast outdoors, by the
gates of the Retiro, while watching the world
go by at the Puerta de Alcalá.
Shopping
03
02. Find the latest styles
On the hunt for up-to-theminute trends
. 
Before going out for the evening, make
your way to the districts where
fashion is always one step ahead. Men
will love Conde Duque, the girls will fall for
Salesas, and the fashionistas will be delighted
by the streets around Triball.
Lunch
03. Menu of the day
Home-cooking
 
Succulent food at an affordable fixed
price. This is the best way to sample homecooked food in the eateries of the neighbourhoods
of Chamberí, Lavapiés and Chueca.
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31. Decotour
04. Centuries of history
are watching over us
Rediscover the Literary
Quarter
 
This district has been spectacularly
revamped. Without losing sight of its
04
artisan and popular traditional ambience, it is now home to numerous home décor
05
and antiquarian establishments where
05
you might wish to treat yourself to some
shopping. An ideal setting for an aſternoon
stroll, with a break for a bite to eat in any of
the district’s cafés.
Art
05. Gallery openings
The first in line
 
Thursday is oſten the day for inaugurating new exhibitions. Take the
opportunity to visit one of the city’s best art
galleries. Check out the city’s events calendar
at www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid
06
Gastrobars
06. The ‘aſterwork’ trend
Shall we go for a drink?
 
This is the starting point for sharing
some light refreshments with
friends aſter finishing work. A few beers to
start off the evening, to wash down the tapas,
continuing with a couple of glasses of wine
and finishing off with a tantalizing cocktail.
www.esmadrid.com
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32. 7
FOR INCURABLE HEDONISTS
IN THE MORNING, ART; BEFORE LUNCH, AN APPETIZER; AT MIDDAY,
A FINE RESTAURANT; TO UNWIND, A SPA; IN THE EVENING, A
SHOW AND A FEW DRINKS. WHAT MORE COULD YOU ASK FOR?
01
An art-filled morning
360 degrees
01. Every possible style
Paseo del Prado
02. A high rise view
Cibeles Palace
 
M
Having seen the treasures of the Art
Walk inside the museums, now is the
time to take a global view from outside.
There is no better place for this than from
the vantage point of the roof of the
CentroCentro, from where you can admire
spectacular panoramic views over Madrid.
Start the day with a coffee on any of the outdoor cafés
at the end of Calle Huertas. From here you are just a
few short steps away from the best museums in Madrid. To the
right is the CaixaForum with its vertical garden; a little further
along is the Reina Sofía museum. To the leſt is the Thyssen
museum. And just opposite, the Prado. All museums offer
guided visits and educational programmes for children.
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33. At the table
03. Table service
Salamanca district
04
. 
On the streets crisscrossing the Goya,
Velázquez and Serrano districts, it is
possible to eat at some of the best restaurants in Madrid. From the creations of
prize-winning chefs boasting Michelin stars to
the best seasonal cuisine.
Relax
04. Pamper yourself
Wellbeing for your body
 
To restore your energy before going
out on the town, many of Madrid’s top
hotels offer spa and massage services.
Alternatively, you could visit one of the many
sports centres and gyms open to the public.
Theatre
05
05. Curtains up
Classics, comedy and
musicals
. 
All eyes all on the Madrid stage, which
has become a great cultural attraction,
with a varied programme featuring top international shows and famed actors.
“Movida”
06. The youngest
itinerary
From Chueca to Malasaña
06
 
Most of Madrid’s nightlife is concentrated
in these two districts. In the first you can
experience a laid-back LGTB ambience.
Malasaña is just around the corner and has lost
none of its appeal to the alternative crowd
with a recent face-liſt and a great selection of
nightclubs catering for every musical taste.
www.esmadrid.com
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34. 7
NOT WITHOUT MY CHILDREN
MADRID IS A CELEBRATION, WHETHER YOU ARE 5 YEARS OLD OR
50. USE THE KIDS AS AN EXCUSE TO RIDE ON ALL KINDS OF AT
TRACTIONS OR TO ASK RONALDO FOR HIS AUTOGRAPH.
02
Greenery and zoo
Boating
01. Morning leisure time
Casa de Campo
 
Any excuse is a good excuse to visit the
Casa de Campo: spend a morning wandering through the trees, test your fitness on the
exercise apparatus, pedal along the cycling
routes, row a boat on the lake or visit the
animals at the zoo. Thematic fairs and sports
competitions are frequently held here.
Appetizer
02. All aboard the Cable Car
Paseo de Rosales
03
M
Take the opportunity to cross the Manzanares on board the hanging cabins which
take you to the Parque del Oeste, another of
Madrid’s vast green spaces, with bars and outdoor tables, a perfect place for a snack while
you watch the children play.
Refreshment
03. À la carte or at the bar
San Anton Market
 
Now is the time to hop on the Metro to
Chueca.This is the latest market to have
opened and already it is a hit with the public
with its varied food stalls, its contemporary
design and fabulous atmosphere. Do not forget
to visit the outdoor café on the roof.
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35. Castellana
04. An aſternoon
with idols
There’s something for
everyone
. 
Accompany the children on a visit to
the Wax Museum in Colón and end
the aſternoon with a walk up the Castellana
(or take the bus if you prefer) to the Santiago Bernabeu stadium, football’s maximum
exponent. If there isn’t a match on, you can
always see the pitch from inside the stadium
and the trophy room.
Shopping
05. Open on bank holidays
Madrid never closes
 
Begin by updating your kit in the Real
Madrid shop and then head off to the
children’s clothes shops in the Salamanca
district, also open on Sundays (as is the
rest of the city centre). Madrid residents
say this is the best day to go shopping.
04
Before going to bed
06. Hot chocolate with
'churros'
Irresistible
 
Aſter such a busy day you need to
restore your energy. The San Ginés
hot chocolate bar close to Sol is legendary, and not to be missed. In the aſternoon it has a family atmosphere while at
night it is a required stop for nighthawks,
as it is open until dawn.
06
05
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36. 7
A PERFECT SUNDAY
FOLLOW THE EXAMPLE SET BY MADRID’S INHABITANTS
WHO TRADITIONALLY SPEND THEIR FREE DAYS WITH THEIR
FRIENDS AND FAMILY. A RECENT DEVELOPMENT IS STORES IN
CENTRAL DISTRICTS OPENING ON SUNDAYS.
Shopping
Breakfast
01. Sniff out a bargain
at the Rastro
A thousand and one
curiosities
02. A full brunch
Everything you could
wish for
 
Plaza de Cascorro and Calle
Ribera de Curtidores are covered
with hundreds of stalls from this traditional flea market, where, if you search long
enough, you can find practically anything.
01
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. 
What began as a habit introduced
by international visitors only catered
for by the top class hotels, has now
spread throughout the whole city.
Café Oliver boast of being the first to
serve brunch.

37. A walk
03. Meandering through
the streets
A medieval walk
 
03
As well as being an essential place for
tapas, the maze of streets of La Latina is ideal for a leisurely walk to discover
the medieval atmosphere of its hidden squares, such as Plaza de San Andrés, and its
narrow streets such as Cava Baja.
After lunch
04. A steaming cup
of coffee
Walls steeped in history
. 
Around Calle Segovia you will come
across old-time cafés that invite
you to stop and chat with friends or
cast a glance over the Sunday papers.
Remember that many news kiosks open only
on Sunday mornings.
Arenal
04
06
05. Sunday shopping
Open just for you
. 
Around Plaza Mayor the streets are
bustling with a festive and family atmosphere. But not only here. Shops and businesses
in the centre of Madrid are allowed to open as
they would any other day of the week.
Cinema
06. Latest film releases
In their original language
 
In Madrid, subtitled films continue to
thrive. Many of the OV cinemas are
located around Plaza de los Cubos, close
to Plaza de España. In the area there are a
few excellent bars where you can enjoy some
international tapas aſter the film.
www.esmadrid.com
037

38. +34 914 364 340
2

39. ART &CULTURE
40-61
4043 THE ART WALK
4447 HISTORIC NEIGHBOURHOODS
4849 GALLERY ROUTE
5057 NEW SPACES
5859 WHAT'S ON
6061 INTERVIEW
Elena Ochoa

40. THE ART WALK
Almost 3 km of museums and exhibitions
ALTERNATIVE SPACES
SUCH AS LA CASA ENCENDIDA,
THE REINA SOFÍA AND
CAIXAFORUM, CLASSICS
INCLUDING THE PRADO AND
THE THYSSEN, AND PRIVATE
INSTITUTIONS LIKE THE
MAPFRE FOUNDATION… WEAR
COMFORTABLE SHOES!
THE ESSENTIAL ROUTE for art lovers
If you haven't stood before Las Meninas,
you haven't been to Madrid. This might
sound a little over the top, but the Prado Museum and the room within which the public
can contemplate this extraordinary painting
represent one of the corners of Madrid that
visitors can least afford to miss out on. The
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Prado embodies the spirit of Madrid: regal yet
open, local yet universal, vast and yet built on a
human scale, solid yet constantly moving. This
museum forms part of the so-called Art Walk,
a route covering almost three kilometres from
the National Library in Plaza de Colón to La
Casa Encendida in the Embajadores district.

41. ARCHAEOLOGICAL
MUSEUM
    
 , 
     
,    
   -
,  
  .
FROM COLÓN TO EMBAJADORES
The route encompasses a string of emblematic art institutions, including the ThyssenBornemisza Museum, CaixaForum and
the Reina Sofía Museum. Each has its own
personality: the Thyssen boasts an outstanding permanent collection of more than a thousand works dating from the 18th century to
the end of the 20th; CaixaForum surprises
visitors with its temporary exhibitions cover-
ing all artistic disciplines without exceptions
and "El Reina", as the locals call it, has focused
on purely avant-garde movements for the last
twenty years. And there's more besides. Other
must-visits include the Mapfre Foundation,
the Casa de América and the new CentroCentro, located near Plaza de Cibeles.
www.esmadrid.com/en/art-walk-madrid
www.esmadrid.com
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42. OPEN!
   
   ,
   
   
' 
  
  
.
THE THREE BIG ONES: PRADO, THYSSEN & REINA SOFÍA
Three museums, three different personalities. The
Prado, designed by Juan de Villanueva and extended by Rafael Moneo, is one of the world's most
prestigious art galleries. Alongside Las Meninas by Velázquez and The Third of May 1808 by
Goya, its rooms also house various masterpieces
of the Spanish, Italian and Flemish schools.
The Thyssen-Bornemisza brings together
vast exhibitions and a powerful, unique
painting collection. It displays some of the
best works from the 18th to the 20th centuries, filling in the gaps not covered by its fellow galleries on the Art Walk such as Fauvism
and German Expressionism. They really know
how to organise blockbusters: this year it has
a definite date with Pisarro. The Reina Sofía
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embraces all minority movements. The reorganisation of the permanent collection and
the museum's exhibition programme has a
strong avant-garde message: Madrid's audiences have daring tastes.
MORE THAN JUST EXHIBITIONS
Something is always happening at these three
museums. The Prado is an excellent place to have
breakfast or buy a giſt. The Reina Sofía boasts one
of the best bookshops in the city, La Central, and
the Thyssen's patios and conference programme
represent one of Madrid's luxuries.

43. OSCAR MARINÉ
Designer,
illustrator, artist
A space you recommend. Matadero
Madrid, for the diversity of its cultural
activities. Your favourite museum.
The Reina Sofía, for the versatility
of its rooms and magnificent library.
Your thoughts on the Prado. Everyone can find inspiration in there. And
the Thyssen. We are lucky to have it
in Madrid. Madrid's best-kept secret.
It's an open secret: the future Royal
Collections Museum, designed by
Tuõn and Mansilla. Your latest discovery. The Tipos Infames bookshop
(San Joaquín, 3).
THE THREE CORNERS.
The Prado Museum (see previous
page), the Thyssen-Bornemisza
Museum (above) and the Reina
Sofía Museum make up the
central triangle of art in Madrid.
www.esmadrid.com
043

44. www.esmadrid.com/en/architecture-madrid
GERARD MORTIER
Artistic director
at the Teatro Real
Where does your life in Madrid
take place? Usually between the Teatro Real and my apartment. Where
would you recommend for a quiet
meal? The restaurants I like best are
Goizeko (Comandante Zurita, 37),
Kabuki (Avenida del Presidente Carmona, 2) and, when the weather's
good, the gardens of the Hotel Ritz
(Pza. de la Lealtad, 5). A walk that
inspires you. I really enjoy a stroll in
the Retiro Park and the grand boulevards of the city centre. A place to
buy a gift. I don't overcomplicate
things: I know that in El Corte Inglés
I can find everything I need.
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HAPSBURG
Royal Madrid
King Felipe II made Madrid the capital of Spain in the 16th century.
Both he and his successors would be active residents of Madrid.
A perfect example of this is Carlos III (18th century), a great town
planner who deserved his nickname as the “Mayor King”. Thanks
to him, the capital was transformed from a medieval town into
a modern city. The nucleus of this regal Madrid is the Royal
Palace, which boasts the most important royal armoury in Europe
and is surrounded by the Teatro Real opera house and La Almudena
Cathedral. A royal residence since 1764, it is impressive both for its
imposing façade and lavish interior, with almost 3,000 rooms open
to visitors. Nevertheless, the Spanish monarchs were of an austere
nature, and nowhere is this better reflected than in the Hapsburg
neighbourhood (Austrias).

45. PLAZA MAYOR
'   
    :
     
,    
    . 
   
  
 .
CENTURIES OF HISTORY.
On the left-hand page,
the Royal Palace presides
over Plaza de Oriente. Here,
the colonnades of Plaza Mayor
never fail to amaze.
*SSSSHHHH*
PAST AND PRESENT
Today, Hapsburg Madrid is one of the most pleasant places
to take a walk, and one of the best preserved areas of the
city. Nestled in between Puerta del Sol and the Royal Palace, it
is a labyrinth of narrow streets, stone buildings, convents and
churches. Time has been kind to this sober architecture, even
giving it a feeling of vitality. Much frequented by locals and visitors alike, it is also a fine example of how the past is still very
present in Madrid without overwhelming the modern city.
Monarchs, the aristocracy and
their homes are full of mysteries
and legends:
· It is said that the elegant halls
of Linares Palace, which today
house Casa de América, are
haunted. Many visitors claim to
have heard the ghost's voice.
· Ataulfo is the name of the
spirit that lives in the Reina
Sofía Museum. The legend dates
back to the 18th century when
the building was a hospital.
· The Duchess of Osuna organised talks on spiritualism during
the Enlightenment at El Capricho Park. Goya produced paintings for the small palace on
the grounds, including Witches'
Sabbath, now housed in the
Lázaro Galdiano Foundation.
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045

46. LITERARY QUARTER
Echoes of the Golden Age
The neighbourhood owes its name to the fact that Góngora,
Tirso de Molina, Calderón de la Barca and Lope de Vega
lived here in the 17th century. To remind us of these illustrious residents, excerpts of their works have been engraved on
pavements trodden by many passers-by every day. Its borders
are marked by Plaza de Santa Ana, Plaza de las Cortes,
Calle de Atocha and Paseo del Prado. Being close to the
Prado has naturally led to the establishment of several art
spaces in the area. In fact, it has always drawn in musicians,
booksellers and antique dealers. In recent years a new generation of traders and artists has emerged, reviving the perennial
spirit of the neighbourhood with a 21st-century twist. Everyone is aware that the Literary Quarter possesses a special
cultural energy and they pull together to protect it. Today, following a pedestrianisation process that has breathed life into
the area, the Literary Quarter takes great care over its ethics
and aesthetics. This is a neighbourhood worthy of the great
names who lived here a long time ago.
*BETWEEN PAGES*
»CUESTA DE MOYANO The mecca for all book lovers.
Here you can find traditional stalls where books are bought,
sold and exchanged. The perfect plan for the weekend.
»ATENEO Open to members and researchers, it
boasts a vast collection of 19th century pamphlets,
monographs and journals. Some interesting conferences
also take place here.
»NATIONAL LIBRARY Everything published in
Spain can be found here. It has just celebrated its 300th
anniversary with more vitality than ever.
»INSTITUTO CERVANTES LIBRARY
This space is targeted at a multicultural public interested
in the Spanish language. It has a good video library and
guarantees peace and quiet to work in.
046
www.esmadrid.com
NEIGHBOURHOOD LIFE. In
and around Calle de las Huertas
you can feel the inspiration of
literature and the arts, and you
will often stumble across street
performances here.

47. MARTA ETURA
Actress, winner of
the Goya Award for
Celda 211
Your favourite spot. The roof terrace of the Fine Arts Circle. I love
the view over the rooftops. Where
might we be able to find you?
In the Literary Quarter, browsing
its interior design stores, galleries
and antique shops. Your perfect
time and place. Gran Vía. 5am. A
terrace. My terrace, or that of the
hotel ME (Pza. Santa Ana, 14). A
place to eat with friends. Maxi
(Cava Alta, 4): on Thursdays and
Saturdays they do a delicious Madrid-style stew. A place to buy a
gift. I usually head to the area of
Calle de Piamonte.
MADRID'S LITERARY QUARTER
01. Pza. del ¸ngel
02. Teatro Espaol
03. Ateneo
04. Pza. de las Cortes
05. Thyssen Museum
06. Pza. de la Platería
07. Prado Museum
08. CaixaForum
09. Reina Sofía Museum
10. Cine Doré
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047

48. www.esmadrid.com/en/art-madrid
GALLERY ROUTE The most contemporary art
Every year in February Madrid bustles with
the arrival of ARCOMadrid, to the delight of
all collectors. Free valuations will be offered
by the fair itself for the second year running
for those who wish to start their own collection. Its influence as a prominent art market
reaches across the whole city, all year round.
Madrid's galleries are behind the indisputable masters of modern art in Spain,
such as Tàpies, Barceló and Gris, as well as
the innovative force represented by young
avant-garde artists. There are a number
of gallery routes across the city centre. You
might decide to visit the galleries of the Literary Quarter, small yet very up-to-date, or
the long-standing ones in Chamberí. New
spaces are springing up in the Salamanca
district, already a pioneer back in the 1960s.
Other good routes can be found near the
Reina Sofía Museum, not to mention those
scattered across the Salesas neighbourhood. Whatever the choice, each one offers a
stimulating dip into the art world.
ARCO
IT'S A FIESTA
   
   , 
  
  . 
 , 
  

.
048
www.esmadrid.com

49. CREATIVE DYNAMISM.
On this page: an exhibition
room at La Fábrica cultural
centre, and the Instituto
Cervantes. Previous page:
Ivorypress gallery.
*SALESAS*
Although there are galleries
all over Madrid, the highest
proportion is to be found in
the Salesas neighbourhood.
The area is home to contemporary classics such as the
Juana de Aizpuru, Max Estrella,
La Caja Negra, Moriarty, Elvira
González and Rita Castellote
galleries. A stroll down its
wide streets confirms its status
as Madrid's own Soho.
GERARDO
MOSQUERA
@GerardoMosquer1
Curator
for PHotoEspaña
A walk that inspires you. From
Puerta del Sol to Hapsburg Madrid. To get away from it all.
The Royal Botanical Gardens.
The best views. From the roof terrace of the Fine Arts Circle. The
most special light. The sunset from
the terrace at La Almudena Cathedral. Your latest discovery. RMS El
Espacio (www.rms.com.es). Classicism versus avant-garde. The Prado Museum and Matadero Madrid.
A local tip. The San Miguel and San
Antõn markets. Something that always surprises you about Madrid.
The intensity of its nightlife.
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049

50. MADRID
AT YOUR FEET
    
    
  ' ,
   , ,
  
  
 .
CENTROCENTRO. The renovated
interior of Cibeles Palace is open
to residents and visitors alike - a
unique, multipurpose space
with viewpoint, auditorium and
restaurant/café.
050
www.esmadrid.com

51. CIBELES PALACE
A true icon of Madrid
STARTING POINT
The same building is also home to CentroCentro, 30,000
square metres of exhibition space and platforms for debate, an auditorium for chamber music events, and its Patio
de Operaciones, a place to socialise, take a seat, relax and
contemplate your next visit, or read some more about Madrid.
It also boasts an impressive Glass Gallery: some of the city's
best celebrations are held here. But the jewel in the palace's
crown is the viewpoint. It stands 70 metres from the ground,
offering 360 degree views over the heart of Madrid. The restaurant which opened in 2012 is on the top floor of the building.
02
03
04
05
06
07
A popular spot for snapshots in Madrid is undoubtedly
Cibeles Palace. In fact, the whole square invites a constant
stream of amateur photographers capturing their memories
of Madrid in the form of a photo. Now, Plaza de Cibeles, as
open and vibrant as the city itself, has taken on new life.
It has gone from being a mere piece of scenery to a place
that attracts visitors in its own right. The recent renovation
of Cibeles Palace has led to the creation of a new cultural and social space. The original building, built by Palacios and Otamendi in 1904, currently houses the City Council
in part of its rooms.
01
08
09
10
THE LANDMARKS OF CALLE ALCALÅ AND GRAN VÒA
01. Fine Arts Circle
Alcalá, 42. (1919-1926)
02. Metrõpolis Building
Alcalá, 39. (1907-1910)
03. Madrid-París Building
Gran Vía, 32. (1920-1924)
04. Palacio de la Prensa
Pza. del Callao, 4.
(1925-1929)
05. Cines Callao
Pza. del Callao, 3.
(1926-1927)
06. Torre de Madrid
Pza. de Espaa, 18.
(1954-1960)
07. Casino de Madrid
Alcalá, 15. (1903)
08. Banco Bilbao Building
Alcalá, 16. (1919-1923)
09. Carriõn Building
Gran Vía, 41.
(1931-1933)
10. Telefõnica Building
Gran Vía, 28. (1926-1930)
www.esmadrid.com/en/art-madrid
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52. www.mataderomadrid.com
MATADERO MADRID Spaces in constant evolution
When you come to Madrid you'll see that in
recent years the capital has experienced a
similar process to that of other European cities. A process somewhere between poetry and
sustainability. The city has revived some
ailing spaces, breathing new cultural life
into them. The standard-bearer of this trend
is Matadero Madrid, a huge complex (and
former slaughterhouse) located on the edge
of the Madrid Río project that has placed the
Arganzuela district in the avant-garde spotlight of the city. Today it houses exhibition
halls such as Nave 16 (the largest in the city),
the innovative Central de Diseño, the creative centre Abierto X Obras and the cinema
Cineteca. This is also the location of Inter-
mediae, a venue for generating new projects,
and Naves del Español, one of Madrid's most
stimulating theatres. Its brand new landmark
space, La Casa del Lector, was successfully
opened in 2012.
BREAKING THE MOULD
Matadero continues the groundbreaking trend
started by La Casa Encendida, well known
for its cultural activities, courses and workshops. Another option is the El Águila complex, a former beer factory that now hosts
visual art exhibitions.
MATADERO
ALSO AT NIGHT
  ,  
   
 .  
   
 ,  
  '
  
 .
052
www.esmadrid.com

53. CÉSAR ANTONIO
MOLINA
Director of
Casa del Lector
A recommendation that never
disappoints. The Matadero Madrid
cultural complex. What is it about
Madrid that makes it special and
different? The sky and the constant
light. The most amazing thing
about Casa del Lector. It’s a place
that teaches how to live and love
culture. A great bookstore in the
capital. “Antonio Machado” in Círculo de Bellas Artes. A book about
Madrid or set in Madrid. Valle-Inclán’s novel, Bohemian Lights.
* NEWCOMERS *
BREAKING THE MOULD.
Matadero Madrid (on the left)
joins the list of innovative
spaces along with (on this
page) La Casa Encendida
and Hub Madrid.
»MEDIALAB PRADO A
research laboratory and centre
for collaborative work which aims
to disseminate digital culture and
bring together society, art, science
and technology. Alameda, 15.
»HUB MADRID A space for
co-working and an ideas centre.
It marks a before and after in our
understanding of the way we
work. Gobernador, 26.
»UTOPIC_US A multipurpose
and avant-garde art gallery,
workspace and, even, school.
Concepciõn Jerõnima, 22.
»ESPACIO FUNDACIÓN
TELEFÓNICA A leading expo-
nent of 21st century culture: creativity, innovation and technology for
social development. Fuencarral, 3.
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053

54. RENEWAL. On this page:
the Conde Duque barracks
opens its doors once more. On
the next page: the light and
airy ABC museum (above)
contrasts with the museums of
History and Romanticism.
CONDE DUQUE
Martial renewal
This self-sufficient, well-preserved military neighbourhood is like a Russian doll:
the streets lead to plazas, which lead to
tucked-away spots, which lead to sculptures... Now it has added two large cultural spaces to its physiognomy and soul.
However, they are not entirely new: Conde
Duque already existed as an exhibition centre and concert hall, but it has
just undergone a fabulous refurbishment. In times gone by this was the largest building in Madrid. Even today it has
imposing dimensions, with a surface area
of 5,000m2 and 228 metres of façade. It
also boasts an impressive theatre, exhibition and musical programme of events.
A NEW NEIGHBOUR
Very close to Conde Duque and complementing it is the ABC Museum. It is an
unassuming building whose glass façade
contrasts with its surroundings. An initiative of the newspaper ABC and supported
by its substantial archives, it is focused
on illustration and graphic design.
Open since 2010, it already forms part of
the city's cultural routes. It's the new kid on
the block that can be found in all traditional
neighbourhoods.
054
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55. www.esmadrid.com/condeduque
JUAN GATTI
Graphic designer
and visual artist
A museum or gallery. I love the Decorative Arts and Sorolla museums.
Madrid's best-kept secret. I want it
to stay that way: the Botanical Gardens. They are not at all well-known,
and they're divine. The thing you can
only find in Madrid. The party spirit.
Your latest discovery. The vintage
furniture shop Moratín 20. A unique
photo. In one of the Matadero buildings that haven't been restored, and I
love the light in the train stations.
* 5 MUSEUMS *
»ROMANTICISM Decorated
in the style of a 19th century bourgeois palace. A delight. In Chueca.
»SOROLLA The Valencian
artist painted here for many years.
The museum offers the best of
his works and the chance to learn
about his daily life. In Chamberí.
»CERRALBO Works by El Greco
and Zurbarán are interspersed with
this family's collection from the
19th century. In Princesa.
»LÁZARO GALDIANO
A journey through the history
of Spanish art: pieces by Goya,
Velázquez and El Greco. In
Salamanca.
»HISTORYFormer hospice
housing one of the best displays
of Madrid baroque. Recently
reopened. In Chueca.
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56. Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
NEW ARCHITECTURE
From Castellana to the outskirts
During these first years of the 21st century, Madrid
has witnessed two architectural currents. It is impossible to ignore the first, a clearly avant-garde
style. The four skyscrapers at the northern end of
Castellana remind us of this fact. They are: Torre
de Cristal, Torre PwC (which houses the five-star
Eurostars Tower on its first 34 floors), Torre Espacio and Torre Repsol, the last of these designed
by Sir Norman Foster. Other turn-of-the-century examples include T4 (Richard Rogers-Estudio Lamela),
prodigious work of engineering and light; the CaixaForum building (Herzog&de Meuron), which still
amazes with its illusion of lightness; Caja Mágica
by Dominique Perrault; Jean Nouvel's work on the
Reina Sofía; and Moneo's on the Prado.
056
www.esmadrid.com
The other trend present here has a more discreet
profile and sustainable angle. Madrid has taken on
projects in which architecture and town planning go
hand in hand; above all, the city keeps close to the
residents and their needs. In some of Madrid's neighbourhoods you can find works that incorporate green
technology and a sense of coexistence, as in the case
of the Eco-Boulevard in Vallecas and the Carabanchel urban expansion, which contains buildings
such as the Manzana Perforada by ACM Arquitectos and Casa de Bambú by Alejandro Zaera. Times
change, people change and cities change.

57. www.esmadrid.com/madridrio
21ST-CENTURY FORMS.
On the previous page:
the four towers erected
at the end of Paseo de la
Castellana. On this page:
the bridge designed by
Perrault as part of the
Madrid Río project.
THE BRIDGES OF MADRID RÍO
Have you crossed your favourite yet?
Madrid Río has 32 bridges and walkways linking the two banks
of the Manzanares River. If you weren't aware of its recent past,
you'd never guess that beneath them lies an underground motorway. This wide-ranging project directed by Ginés Garrido has
maintained and restored some classic bridges such as those of
Toledo, Segovia, Del Rey and Reina Victoria. Nine new bridges have also been added. The most frequently photographed is
the Puente Monumental de la Arganzuela by Dominique Perrault, an icon of the new Madrid. The most unusual bridge is
Puente de Andorra, or the y-shaped walkway, while the warmest designs are those of the twin Invernadero and Matadero
bridges, decorated by Daniel Canogar.
INVERNADERO
 
  
   
,  
 - 
   
    
.
www.esmadrid.com
057

58. WHAT’S ON
ART & CULTURE
>>>>>>
KEEP UP WITH IT ALL ON www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid
IT WOULD BE IMPOSSIBLE TO COVER ALL THE CULTURAL
EVENTS ON OFFER IN MADRID BUT DON'T DESPAIR: WE
CAN SUM UP THE HIGHLIGHTS OF 2013 FOR YOU.
THREE TIPS
SOROLLA
Following exhibitions in Italy and
Granada, the
Sorolla Museum
is now hosting this
show paying tribute
to the painter’s
best-loved landscapes. From 30
October 2012 to 5
May 2013.
VAN DYCK
Casa de Alba
its artistic legacy
Paintings by Goya, Titan and Rubens are just a
few of the treasures from the Casa de Alba
private collection, now on show in the Centro
Centro at Palacio de Cibeles. More than 150
artworks from the legacy of Spain’s most influential aristocratic family.
>WHEN: From
30 November 2012 to 31 March
2013.
>DID YOU KNOW?: The masterpiece 'The Virgin of the
Pomegranate' is being exhibited for the very first time.
The Prado Museum
is showing the precocious painter’s
early creative work.
From 20 November
2012 to 3 March
2013.
CRISTINA IGLESIAS
The Reina Sofía is
hosting the biggest retrospective
exhibition ever
held on this Spanish artist. From 5
February to 13 May
2013.
Book Fair
A large-scale event at El Retiro Park
Every spring Madrid hosts this major event on
the literary calendar, where leading authors and
publishers come together to present their latest releases and interact with their readers.
>WHEN: May-June. Paseo de Coches in El Retiro Park.
>A UNIQUE EVENT: With more than 300 stalls, this is the
biggest bookshop you'll find in Spain.
058
Beyond ARCOMadrid
A window onto the avant-garde
Three other excellent fairs will be held in parallel: Art
Madrid, Madrid Dearte and JustMad. All complement
a programme that offers curated activities providing a
space for emerging galleries and markets.
>WHEN: From 13 to 17 February 2013 Feria de Madrid.
>KEEP IN MIND: Transport between fairs is generally well organised. Make sure you check out the options and timetables.
www.esmadrid.com

59. Architecture Week
A parade of giants
The experts reveal the secrets of Madrid's
most emblematic buildings. Get all the
details by visiting www.esmadrid.com/semanaarquitectura.
>WHEN: October. Various locations.
>WHAT TO EXPECT: It's a great chance to discover hidden gems.
Dalí The Surrealist genius
The Reina Sofía National Museum is hosting a major exhibition together with the Pompidou Centre in Paris, in collaboration
with the Gala-Salvador Dalí Foundation in Figueres and the
Salvador Dalí Museum in St. Petersburg (Florida). The show
focuses on the Surrealist period of this creative genius, with particular emphasis on the paranoiac-critical method he developed
as a mechanism for transforming and subverting reality.
>WHEN: From
24 April to 2 September 2013.
More Dalí to come at the end of the year: he also features in the Surrealism and Dream exhibition at the Thyssen Museum.
>TO BEAR IN MIND:
AND MUCH MORE
MADRIDFOTO
The outlook is good for
the fifth year of this event
dedicated to collecting
contemporary images.
From 23 to 26 May 2013.
Feria de Madrid.
LA CIUDAD EN VI³ETAS
CentroCentro is the
place to catch a cycle of
exhibitions on unpublished comic strips
on Madrid. From 27
September 2012 to 31
July 2013.
Pisarro
A unique Impressionist
A pivotal figure who laid the foundations
for the Impressionist movement, but
who was eclipsed by his peers. The Thyssen
Museum is holding the first monographic
exhibition of his work in Spain.
>WHEN: From 4 June to 15 September 2013.
>WHY YOU SHOULD SEE IT: Because you will
really appreciate his mastery of landscape in
these 70 works of art.
MARTÒN RICO
The Prado Museum
presents work by this
pioneering artist in the introduction of realist landscape painting in Spain.
From 30 October 2012 to
10 February 2013.
CHANGING OF THE GUARD
Enjoy one of the most emblematic sights by visiting
the Royal Palace for the
Solemn Changing of the
Guard. The first Wednesday
of every month at 12 noon,
except in summer.
www.esmadrid.com
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60. 060
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61. Madrid's taxi drivers are the
most intelligent sociologists
ELENA OCHOA FOSTER EDITOR AND GALLERY OWNER
The wife of architect Norman Foster is the founder of the Ivorypress art publishers and exhibition
space, a meeting point for the newest vanguard movements.
@IvoryPress
Define Madrid in just one image.
The Gran Vía leading down towards
Plaza de Cibeles.
Where in Madrid could you
spend hours reading?
At home. And if my house is full of
kids playing in the hallways, then
Plaza de Santa Bárbara nearby.
Where do you like to hang out?
At the bar Cock (Reina, 16) with my
close friends, until as late as possible.
What's the greatest luxury you
allow yourself in Madrid? And
the best value treat?
Wandering around Hapsburg Madrid. And the best value treat: going to the cinema with my children,
enjoying a packet of pipas and a
large popcorn.
What hotel do you usually recommend?
The Santo Mauro (Zurbano, 36).
And what about restaurants?
For pizza, Bar Tomate (Fernando El
Santo, 26); if you fancy hake, then
Goizeko Kabi (Comandante Zorita,
37); for game, Horcher (Alfonso XII,
6); for a good potato tortilla, La Ancha (Príncipe de Vergara, 204); and
for eating and chatting with friends,
La Tasquita de Enfrente (Ballesta,
6). With my kids I prefer to go to
Pan de Lujo (Jorge Juan, 20). And
I'm leaving a lot of places out.
What is the thing you miss
most about Madrid when you're
abroad?
The smell, the light, the blue sky,
and the taxi drivers: they're the
most intelligent sociologists, a
barometer of Spain. Their irony is
witty, authentic and inimitable.
What can a visitor to Ivorypress
expect to find?
A different way of understanding
books and contemporary art. That's
how we've been described by the Financial Times and the Daily Telegraph,
as well as by magazines like Monocle
and Corriere del Arte. My team and I
have managed to position Ivorypress
and Madrid as a steady, indisputable
landmark in contemporary art and
publishing. It's a fact and a reality.
But there’s still a long way to go.
Who is the artist from Madrid
that you would most like to publish a book with?
The artist I admire most is from
Madrid: Isidoro Valcárcel Medina.
He is the future. We have developed
a meticulous artist's book with him
which we will launch at this year's
edition of Arco.
The best book written about
Madrid is...
The one I'm writing, which I might
not ever publish. I’m writing about
public and private Madrid, the Madrid I love and the one I hate, the
one that I feel when I live there for
periods of time, and the timeless,
ephemeral Madrid; its people, whom
I love, and its skies and corners.
www.esmadrid.com
061

63. FOOD&DRINK
64-78
6465 TAPAS
6667 MADRID  THE ESSENCE
6869 COSMOPOLITAN FLAVOURS
7071 HEALTHY AND GOURMET
7273 DISTRICT BY DISTRICT
7475 SWEETS AND DESSERTS
76 DRINKING IN STYLE
77 WHAT'S ON
78 INTERVIEW
Ramón Freixa

64. TAPAS
The pleasure will be all yours
TASTY BITES.
A selection of tapas
lined up on a bar in San
Miguel market. On the
right, eating raciones in La
Latina district.
MADRID IS ONE OF THE
WORLD'S FOOD CAPITALS. HERE
YOU CAN ENJOY DISHES
FROM ACROSS THE GLOBE
AS WELL AS TRADITIONAL AND
CONTEMPORARY SPANISH CUI
SINE AT ANY TIME OF DAY. TA
PAS, THOUGH, ARE A MUST.
064
www.esmadrid.com
LET YOURSELF GO
   
 :
   
,    
 , 
  
  
.
BEER AND WINE
A traditional ceremony
A good tapa needs to be washed down with a good drink,
which is why the beer pump is the heart of any bar. Traditional taverns always echo to the sound of glasses of beer
being filled and passed over the counter. In Madrid pale beer
is the favourite choice, served in a small glass and very
cold, especially in summer. Some people prefer a clara,
beer mixed with soda water or lemonade. Vermouth, also
available on tap, is still a favourite aperitif.

65. READY FOR A BITE?
Doing the rounds
in La Latina
Eating raciones (portions) is an old Spanish
tradition that has become popular in many
countries, and there’s nowhere quite like Madrid for enjoying tapas. They have become part
of our social and cultural life, with cheese, cold
meats, rice and stews in individual portions
making up the perfect informal way of eating
your fill. This art is at its finest in the Literary
and Hapsburg quarters and, above all, in
La Latina, where you can go from bar to bar,
eating a little of everything you fancy.
Products with designation of origin and
other delicacies are now being given the creative cuisine treatment. Leading chefs have
turned their attention to tapas, reinventing
them with creative designs, attractive textures
and a mix of delicious international flavours.
However, However, the tortilla, or potato
omelette, is still the best known tapa of all. In
portions, as canapés or cut into cubes, it is the
quintessential Madrid tapa.
* TOP TAPAS *
»CROQUETTES Ham, chicken, cod
WINE BY THE GLASS
Depending on the bar and
the time of day, wine has become a popular alternative to
beer. The traditional flat-bottomed chatos are now being replaced by stemmed
wine glasses. You can order
wine by the glass so there’s
no need to sit down at a dinner table and order a whole
bottle. Fine wines from Spain
and the rest of the world can
be enjoyed in many classic
wine bars and modern gastro-bars, where you can devise your own à la carte tasting menu of small dishes. Old
favourites like olives, white
anchovies in vinegar and
Iberian ham are to be found
alongside new versions of
traditional recipes featuring
ingredients from other cultures. Travel through food!
and many others. With their varied fillings,
croquettes are ideal for a tasty snack.
»'BOCADILLOS' Baguettes filled
with old favourites are still very popular:
fried squid, ham and tomato, pork tenderloin with cheese, peppers, etc.
»'TORTILLAS' The potato omelette
reigns supreme but there are many
alternatives. In Spain they are eaten at
any time of day.
»PATATAS BRAVAS Potatoes cut
into chunks, fried and served with a spicy
tomato sauce.
www.esmadrid.com
065

66. OMAR ALLIBHOY
@tapasrevolution
Owner of hugely
succcessful Tapas
Revolution in London
Where do they serve your favourite cocido? In Taberna la Daniela.
Any favourite tapa? The tortilla
pinchos at Juana la Loca (Pza.
Puerta de Moros, 4) and croquettes
from the stall in San Miguel market. A relaxed meal. Roast lamb
at La Tahona (Espíritu Santo, 12).
A drink to round the evening off?
The rooftop terrace at Hotel Urban
(Carrera de San Jerõnimo, 34).
THE HOME OF 'COCIDO'.
From left to right, three
restaurants you'll want to go
back to: La Bola, Cruz Blanca
beer bar in Vallecas (winner of
the award for the best cocido in
Madrid) and Malacatín.
066
www.esmadrid.com
A COMPLETE 'COCIDO'
The capital's staple dishes
Cocido is a meal in itself. The first course consists of
soup, and is followed by a stew made with cabbage,
carrots and potatoes, chorizo, bacon, chicken and pork,
plus chickpeas, a crucial ingredient. There are many
variations but the original, authentic version is
from Madrid. The dish epitomises the city's open
character. This generous stew, which admits all sorts
of ingredients, should be prepared in a pot and served
in an earthenware dish. It dates back to the sixteenth
century, when it was eaten by nobility and servants

67. alike. La Bola, La Daniela and Los Galayos are among
the best known restaurants serving this traditional
dish. To work up an appetite or help you to digest your
meal, go for a long walk through the city centre.
LA LATINA
La Latina district is the
focal point for tourists and
locals in search of good
traditional cooking.
MOUTHWATERING FOOD
There are many other traditional dishes that are firmly
rooted in Madrileños’ normal diets. They can also be
found in restaurants across the city, with such gastronomic delights as roast lamb at Casa Botín, tripe at
the Malacatín, fried eggs at Casa Lucio and calamari
sandwich at El Brillante all forming part of the local
culinary heritage. In Madrid you can also find fine food
from the rest of Spain in the city's many excellent
regional restaurants: salmorejo from Andalusia, pisto
from La Mancha, fish and shellfish from the north of
Spain and rice dishes from the Mediterranean.
www.esmadrid.com
067

68. TREAT YOURSELF. It doesn't
matter if you choose the
elegance of Terraza del Casino,
Chinese food at Tsé Yang
or an Indian meal at Mumbai.
Madrid will not disappoint you.
SETTING
THE SCENE
   
, ' 
  
 ,
  
  
 .
3,100
RESTAURANTS
In different parts of
the city. Food is an
art, combining leisure,
culture and business.
OPENED IN
1725
Casa Botín, near
Plaza Mayor, is the
oldest restaurant in
the world.
10
TRADITIONAL
RESTAURANTS
You'll find them on Paseo de la Gastronomía
in Casa de Campo.
068
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MICHELIN STARS
Exquisite taste
Michelin, the restaurant guide par excellence, has never been particularly
generous as far as Spain's or Madrid's gastronomy is concerned. But
the stars it has awarded are certainly
well deserved. Madrid has six restaurants holding two Michelin stars: La
Terraza del Casino, home of Paco
Roncero's imaginative cuisine; Santceloni, where Óscar Velasco follows
in the footsteps of Santi Santamaría;
Ramón Freixa Madrid and Sergi
Arola Gastro, named aſter their famous chefs, both of whom trained
in Catalonia; plus DiverXo and Club
Allard. Their young yet mature chefs
are David Muñoz and Diego Guerrero
respectively, who skilfully combine
widely varying culinary trends.
The restaurants with one Michelin
star are the elegant Zalacaín, where
some of the country's most important
business deals have been struck, and
Kabuki and Kabuki Wellington,
a balanced fusion of Japanese and
Spanish cooking made possible by
Ricardo Sanz's technical precision.
There are sure to be many more in the
future, as Madrid's cuisine is definitely
going from strength to strength.

69. www.esmadrid.com/en/restaurants-madrid
DAVID MUÑOZ
@DiverXO
Chef at
DiverXo restaurant
A favourite spot. Bravo Murillo, cultural fusion in a street with a fine old
tradition. A secret treat. The Hammam Al Andalus Madrid baths (Atocha, 14). Your favourite Madrid dish?
Cocido; the best is the one you can order from Antojo (Ferraz, 36). An area
for tapas. Huertas. Your favourite
place to eat or drink? Arzábal (Doctor
Castelo, 2). Places you would recommend. Sudestada (Modesto Lafuente,
64) and O’Pazo (Reina Mercedes, 20).
Your latest discovery. La Gastrocroquetería (Segovia, 17).
PHOTOS PENDING OK
os alr Ugiam, commy nim
dui te conulput nibh ex
er se feugiat. Ut autatis
molortinim veliquat dolore
conulla aut exeraesse
euisi.
TRY THIS
A trip round the world in Lavapiés
In recent years a fine selection of dishes from all over the
globe have started cropping up on Madrid menus. This culinary journey round the world becomes a never-ending experience because of the enormous range of attractive and
delicious food on offer. Spicy dishes from Mexico, grilled
meat from Argentina, ceviche from Peru, plus arepas from
Venezuela and Colombia are now part of everyday life in
the city. The same applies to Japanese, Chinese, Thai and
Indonesian food, which is increasingly available in all parts
of the city. You can enjoy an authentic Indian tandoori in
Lavapiés and choose the most exquisite sushi in Paseo
de la Castellana, whether you're looking for an everyday
meal or a special treat. Pasta prepared in genuine Neapolitan ovens, Scandinavian smoked fish, or hearty dishes from
Russia - take your pick!
www.esmadrid.com
069

70. EATING IN THE MARKET
San Miguel and San Antón
Madrid has taken snacks back to their roots, to the markets selling the top quality products used to make them,
and pushed informal tapas to new heights. First in San
Miguel market, next to Plaza Mayor, and now in
San Antón, in Chueca, open multi-purpose spaces have
been set up where you can do the week's shopping or
join your friends for a bite to eat and a beer or a glass
of wine. The unique buildings have been painstakingly
refurbished, making them new city landmarks appreciated by residents and visitors alike. In both markets you
can enjoy oysters in cava or grilled foie gras. Bite-sized
portions of croquettes, mushrooms, Iberian cold meats
ALEJANDRA
ANSÓN
@elite_gourmet
Director of
Elite Gourmet
For a relaxed meal. La Tasquita
de Enfrente (Ballesta, 6) or Ramõn
Freixa (Claudio Coello, 67), depending on the day. A secret treat.
White truffle at Don Giovanni (Reina
Cristina, 23). A traditional dish.
Tortilla at Támara (Av. América, 33).
Any favourite tapa? Nino's little
dishes at La Gabinoteca (Fernández
de la Hoz, 53). The best view. From
the La Terraza del Casino restaurant
(Alcalá, 15). A hotel where you
have a meal too? The Hotel Urban,
thanks to Joaquín Felipe (Carrera de
San Jerõnimo, 34).
070
www.esmadrid.com

71. DELICIOUS MARKETS.
On this page the counter at
one of the bars in San
Miguel market. On the next
page, two places to eat in
San Antón market.
www.esmadrid.com/cultura
and cheese are available until the small hours,
as are home-made ice cream, fresh fruit juice
and designer cakes.
QUICK SERVICE WITH NO SET TIMES
When you visit Madrid you'll find you can eat
very well without breaking the bank. Everyone is familiar with fast food but now many
leading chefs are contributing ingenious ideas for a more balanced version. There is a
demand for carefully prepared, healthy food
using quality ingredients. There has been a
city-wide boom in gourmet hamburgers,
and the trend also applies to tacos, pizzas,
hot dogs, filled baguettes and sandwiches.
Fast food has been reinvented to satisfy
the most demanding diner.
JOSÉ CARLOS CAPEL
@madridfusion
Director of Madrid
Fusión and food
critic
What does Madrid Fusiõn mean
for the city? It has raised its profile
around the world. What do they do
best in Madrid? Pommes soufflés.
The best cocido? Go to Charolés,
in El Escorial (Floridablanca, 24). A
place you'd recommend to friends
visiting Madrid. The stage area in
Teatriz restaurant (Hermosilla, 15).
Your favourite tapa? The ham croquettes at El Quinto Vino (Hernani,
48). The most tempting food in
Madrid. Fusion cuisine. Madrid and
London are European pioneers in
this field.
www.esmadrid.com
071

72. DISTRICTS IN MADRID
TO WHET YOUR APPETITE
This is the start of your culinary journey through the main areas
in the city centre, a route full of interesting flavours.
THE LITERARY QUARTER
The area round Plaza de Santa Ana and
Calle de Huertas combines convenience
and a Bohemian atmosphere. Its traditional
taverns and modern gastrobars are ideal
for a snack when shopping or visiting museums and theatres.
LA LATINA
A walk round the district is compulsory on
Sundays but its bars are well worth visiting during the week, when they are less
crowded. Enjoy regional dishes and generous snacks as you explore Calle Cava Baja.
The district's little squares, with their
lively open-air bars, are hard to resist
on summer evenings.
LAVAPIÉS
The area's traditional past blends with its
new international character. Aromas from
all parts of the world waſt through
its streets, bringing Oriental, Indian and
North African cuisine to Madrid. Calle del
Ave María is a good example, while the
terraces in Argumosa are known as
the district's "sea-front".
SALAMANCA
The district offers gourmet shops, tasting
menus and outstanding wine bars. The
area round Calle Serrano is home to vari-
072
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ous award-winning restaurants offering
food to satisfy the most discerning palate.
And there is no shortage of elegant bars
where you can eat tapas or have tea while
you take a breather from shopping.
SALESAS
The bars serving beer in Plaza de Santa Bárbara are the epicentre of a district
featuring many aſter work bars and delicatessens. Old and well-established cafés
such as El Espejo and Gijón, in Paseo de
Recoletos, give the area a particularly
distinguished air.
MALASAÑA
This lively young district has also kept up
with the fascinating change in people's
eating habits. With a wide range of takeaway food, retro-style cafés, vegetarian restaurants and cosy tea-rooms, it
is also home to legendary tapas bars and
restaurants serving international cuisine.
CHUECA
The San Antón market, with its splendid
flat roof, has extended the impressive
range of options available. Old established
restaurants rub shoulders with brand new
businesses run by young chefs. In the
Vázquez de Mella area you'll find classic cocktails and exotic menus.

73. INTERNATIONAL.
Above, from left to right,
two Italian restaurants:
La Mucca and La
Tavernetta. Below, Happy
Day bakery.
* SET MENUS *
Good, tasty and cheap. In
Madrid you can eat very well on
a tight budget. Most restaurants
offer a set lunch, a filling meal
consisting of two main courses,
a dessert, bread and a drink
at prices ranging from €10 to
€20. The casas de comida are a
particularly good option, serving both traditional and more
modern fare, prepared with fresh
market produce and served in
a friendly, informal atmosphere
that's popular with students,
workers and travellers. When
you come to Madrid, try to visit
different districts so you can see
for yourself how the huge variety
of food on offer reflects their
own, very individual characters.
www.esmadrid.com
073

74. FOR THOSE WITH A SWEET
TOOTH... Breakfast and tea
As you walk round Madrid you'll be bombarded by many tempting aromas. The city has a strong tradition of baking that dates
back for centuries. Traditional pastry specialities include pestiños,
buñuelos de viento, huesos del Santo, rosquillas de San Isidro,
torrijas (eaten at Easter), the roscón de Reyes (a ring-shaped
cake eaten at Christmas), while recent additions include la corona
de la Almudena, eaten during the festivities to honour the
city's patron saint. Churros with hot chocolate are a very wellestablished old favourite, eaten mid-aſternoon to ward off the cold
weather or early in the morning aſter a night on the town. They are
also an integral part of many popular festivities. The thick drinking
chocolate is much loved by children and adults alike, who delight in
dunking their fried batter porras and lazos.
SWEETLY SIDE BY SIDE.
Madrid is home to traditional
bakeries such as La
Santiaguesa and new ventures
like Buenas y Dulces, selling
doughnuts and tea biscuits.
074
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75. www.esmadrid.com/en/restaurants-madrid
* DESSERTS *
»COFFEE The smell of coffee
fills bars and cafés from early
morning until mid-afternoon.
White at breakfast time and with
just a drop of milk after lunch.
»CUPCAKES Traditional fairy
cakes are now decorated with ontrend fancy ingredients, like they
do in English-speaking countries.
»ICE CREAM Home-made,
creamy and nutritious, this old favourite now features unusual new
varieties. Though mostly eaten in
summer, it's also popular in winter.
»'ROSCÓN' Originally meant
to be eaten at Epiphany, there are
bakeries where this cake has been
transformed into a work of art.
CHOCOLATES
AND SWEETS
  
  
  
  
 
 .
NEW TRENDS
Madrid has a number of organic bakeries selling freshly-made croissants, which have made
a big change to the early morning coffee ritual.
The growing popularity of brunch in hotels and
designer bars has made it a regular habit for
many people at weekends. An increasing number
of the city's residents are adopting the custom of
having a British-style high tea in the aſternoon,
eating cupcakes with multi-coloured toppings
and pancakes with syrup and cream.
www.esmadrid.com
075

76. LOVINGLY MIXED DRINKS.
Barman Carlos Moreno, from
Charly's Bar.
THE AFTER WORK BOOM
Cocktails in the centre
In Madrid there's no need to wait for the weekend to enjoy the
city's night life. It's become increasingly common for the Friday or
Saturday night dinner plus drink routine to happen any evening
from Monday to Thursday. There has been a remarkable increase in the number of establishments of all kinds catering for
the aſter-work market. Customers can take advantage of attractive
special deals on drinks and snacks to unwind aſter the day's work
and chat to friends.
Do you prefer a quiet cocktail bar or somewhere livelier? Does it depend on the day you've had? If you like cocktails, Gran Vía (the legendary Museo Chicote, for example) and the area behind it (Calle de la
Reina) are a must. Fancy a gin & tonic? They serve fantastic mixed
drinks in the Triball area. The list is never-ending and you'll be spoilt
for choice all the way from Calle Almirante to Calle de Juan Bravo.
076
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MIKEL
ITURRIAGA
@mikeliturriaga
Author of the blog
El Comidista
A relaxed meal. At Lúa (Zurbano,
85), haute cuisine with no fuss. A restaurant to impress someone. Nikkei
225: high class Japanese-Peruvian
fusion (Castellana, 15). Favourite
tapas? Rabas and salmorejo at El Pez
Gordo (Pez, 6). A place to go to
with friends. Home Burger (Espíritu
Santo, 12). A drink to round the
evening off? In Toni 2 (Almirante, 9).
It's a parallel world.

77. WHAT’S ON
FOOD & DRINK
>>>>>> FOR FULL DETAILS GO TO www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid
THE CALENDAR IS BRIMMING WITH DELICIOUS GASTRO
NOMIC EVENTS HIGHLIGHTING THE FINEST FOOD FROM
MADRID AND FROM ACROSS THE GLOBE.
AND...
MADRID FUSIØN
This is the eleventh
anniversary of
the international
event that turns
Madrid into the
gastronomy capital of the world,
with the presence
of internationally
acclaimed chefs.
In Pavilion 14.1 at
IFEMA. From 21 to
23 January.
SALØN GOURMET
A meeting point for
manufacturers and
consumers of highend food products.
A showcase event
for top quality food
and drink, attracting
buyers from all over
the world. Feria de
Madrid. From 8 to
11 April.
SOCIAL MENU
Gastrofestival A festival of the senses
Coinciding with Madrid Fusión, the city
also hosts Gastrofestival, a culinary and
cultural event with a packed programme
of activities inviting everyone to enjoy Madrid's many flavours. Leading chefs prepare special menus at attractive prices for
the popular Dinners with the Stars and
fashion designers present their own special
creations in Gastrofashion. The event, now
in its third year, also includes tastings and
courses, and is enthusiastically supported
by restaurants, museums, art galleries,
markets and delicatessens.
>WHEN: From
19 January to 3 February 2013.
is a unique
opportunity to enjoy fine food at exceptionally low prices.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: This
Restaurants supporting Restaurant
Week, an initiative
that first started in
New York in 1992,
will be serving
menus at especially
attractive prices.
Not only are they
making restaurants
more accessible,
they are also supporting charitable
causes. March and
November.
www.esmadrid.com
077

78. "Madrid is full
of temptations"
RAMÓN FREIXA COOK
@RamonFreixa
He is one of the leading lights of the
Catalonian school living in Madrid.
The restaurant bearing his name has
earned itself two Michelin stars in
record time.
Lxs cursivxs nx
cxgxn lxs xcxntxs
What does Madrid taste of?
Diversity.
What's been the greatest improvement in the last few
years?
The fresh vitality brought in by
the new set of chefs.
What about the new markets?
A genuine resurgence. I always
say that San Miguel is ideal for
tapas, and in San Antón they've
succeeded in combining tapas
and shopping.
What's your favourite authentic Madrid dish?
Tripe and 'broken' fried eggs.
For dessert?
Desserts are getting better all the
time. You can see it happening in
bakeries like Oriol Balaguer (José
Ortega y Gasset, 44) and Pomme
Sucre (Barquillo, 49).
078
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Your latest discovery?
The Don Lay Chinese restaurant
(Paseo de Extremadura, 30).
Which places do you recommend to your friends?
A walk in El Retiro Park and,
for shopping, the Malasaña and
Salamanca districts.
Where do you go to buy a giſt?
Isolée is a good choice, with lots
to choose from (Infantas, 19).
For flowers, I go to Floreale (Luis
Vives, 5).
The best place to round off an
evening with a drink?
I'd name three: Dry Martini by
Javier de las Muelas (Hermosilla,
2), O'Clock (Juan Bravo, 25) and Le
Cabrera (Bárbara de Braganza, 2).
The most tempting thing in Madrid?
Madrid is full of temptations.

79. SHOPPING
80-97
WHATEVER YOUR STYLE, WE HAVE
SOMETHING TO SUIT ALL TASTES.
8081 SERRANO
8283 GRAN VÍA / SOL
8485 RASTRO FLEA MARKET
8687 SALESAS, TRIBALL AND
THE LITERARY QUARTER
8889 HITTING THE MARKETS
9091 BACK TO MADRID'S ROOTS
92 OUTLET CHIC
93 SHOPPING MAP
9495 WHAT'S ON
9697 INTERVIEW Maribel Verdú

80. ARTE Y CULTURA
SHOPPING
The best of each neighbourhood
EACH AREA HAS ITS OWN PERSONALITY. THE MOST
CHIC BRANDS ARE IN SALAMANCA; THE LATEST TRENDS,
IN SALESAS; TRADITIONAL BOUTIQUES, ON GRAN VÍA...
WHAT'S MORE, MADRID IS OPEN 365 DAYS A YEAR.
SERRANO Come to the street of temptations
Madrid's most fashion-conscious zone is
found in Calle Serrano and the surrounding
streets. A long, formal and traditional street,
its pavements, which have been replaced
and widened for the comfort of pedestrians, are flanked by the largest collection of leading fashion brands. From the
080
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majestic presence of Ortega y Gasset to
the chic elegance of Jorge Juan and its
alleyways. A stroll through the Salamanca
neighbourhood, shopping bags in hand, is a
traditional pastime for residents of Madrid
and a temptation for visitors dazzled by the
vast array of objects of desire on display.

81. STREETS
WITH RENOWN
    
   
    
. , ,
  
   
 .
SALAMANCA DISTRICT
01. Museum of
Public Art
02. Carlos de Amberes
Foundation
03. La Paz Market
04. Loewe
05. El Jardín de Serrano
06. Plaza de Colõn
07. Callejõn de Jorge
Juan
08. Colõn Tourist
Center
09. Teatro Fernán
Gõmez
10. National Library
11. Archaeological
Museum
Famous jewellers, international boutiques, great
designer brands and interior decoration stores,
traditional artisanal shops and various delicatessens offer numerous opportunities to find the perfect
giſt. Spanish fashion deserves special attention,
having taken Calle Serrano and the surrounding area
by storm during recent decades with a lively presence
that has ensured the neighbourhood is a permanent
point of interest. The retail and leisure options here are
constantly updated, and there are numerous first-class
cafés, outdoor bars and restaurants, all of which can
now also be enjoyed on Sundays.
www.esmadrid.com
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82. SHOPPING
www.esmadrid.com/en/shopping-madrid
GRAN VÍA / SOL The main commercial arteries of Madrid
From Monday to Sunday, life in central Madrid's neighbourhoods is a constant bustle
of people and action. And all roads lead
to the century-old Gran Vía. It has junctions
leading onto many other streets, a large
number of which are pedestrianized, allowing millions of residents and visitors to discover the brightest, most fascinating side
of the city.
While its first section is more traditional,
lined with emblematic boutiques, cocktail
bars and grand hotels, Gran Vía is transformed at the Red de San Luis junction. This
is due to the modern influence of Calle de
Fuencarral. Here, the flagship stores of firstrate international brands occupy immense
premises in historic buildings in a show
WINDOW-SHOPPING ROUTE.
Two examples of the varied
retail options Madrid has to offer.
This page: The classic store
Grassy Jewellers. Opposite:
Fuencarral's modern look.
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www.esmadrid.com
of lights and colours that attracts all
passers-by. This spectacle continues from
Plaza del Callao where it meets Calle
Preciados. Pioneering in its restrictions on
traffic circulation, it is still the busiest street
in Spain. At the other end of the district, the
Puerta del Sol branches off into Mayor
and Arenal streets, renewed in recent
years by the opening of establishments that
blend in perfectly with neighbourhood classics. There is so much to choose from that
we need to retrace our steps to make sure
we don't miss anything. This district is truly
the beating heart of Madrid.