3. ABSTRACT
Human society is in need of an integration of material, spiritual and ecological elements.
The interdependence between these needs and the current technological systems tend
to separate from one another. Industrialized society creates systems designed to reduce
natural complexity than the diversity for sustainability. The challenge for humanity is to
develop human design processes, which pertain us to remain in the natural context. Every
phase of the design, manufacturing, and construction processes requires reconsideration
for a global ecology. These frequent linear systems often result ignorant or indifferent
means, which interrupt the interaction between humanity and nature. It is necessary for us
to embrace design, environmental, and philosophical efforts to build a better future.
As one of the most leading garment industries, leather industry plays a significant role
in today’s global economy. The industry exceptionally transforms animal hides into a
chemically stable material by subjecting them to chemical and mechanical sequential
processes, meeting various needs of people. The leather industry uses by-products of
meat industry, which are hides and skins as raw materials. The industry could have been
environmentally friendly and sustainable since it processes waste products from meat
production. However, the leather industry has become to produce high pollution with
chemical, organic wastes and high water consumption through manufacturing processes.
Leather wastes generated from different processes are another inconsiderate and
unnecessary system we have designed for nature. How can we minimize the waste and
create a balance between manufacturing process and sustainable design through human
needs? If the leather process remains within its traditional methods, designers are needed
to adapt the leather waste towards sustainable ends.
“A Full Life Cycle”is a thesis project, which investigates the waste stream in leather industry,
especially in leather product development. The project underlines the precedents of
current factory systems and creates a response to Toyota Production System, which
highlights the history of lean manufacturing system. The research is based to explore
creative design opportunities to eliminate physical waste, leather scraps, from the
production system and create a methodology for a sustainable design. From material
exploration to design prototypes, various iterations have been produced to create
meaningful products with use of leather waste. The factory system, material variations, and
manufacturing process all affect the waste stream in leather production; however, we must
accept to eliminate the concept of waste to optimize the full life-cycle of leather products
and processes to approach the state of natural systems, in which there is no waste.
4.
5. LEATHER INDUSTRY
RESEARCH
A full investigation of current leather industry:
from tanneries to product development factories.
Research includes problem analysis, factory
observation, and a literature reference to Toyota
Production System.
6.
7. The current leather waste
is not a linear result from
the tanning industry, but
rather from an infinite cycle
of obtaining raw material,
material processing,
component processing, and
ultimately retail distribution.
Each process generates
different types of waste,
but the most unconsciously
disposed waste results from
the product development.
According to UNIDO,“with
some high quality items,
only 40% of the surface
Problem of the leather is used”in
various leather product
developments. The cutting
rate for leather ranges from
25 to 60%, depending on
the quality, type, size, and
machine process-ability. Since
the leather does not originate
from a homogeneous,
rectangular form, leather
manufacturers ultimately
cut around the area that
are“useable.”However, the
conscious cutting decisions
are not fully optimized for
many leather productions; the
cutting decisions depend on
workers’experience and skills.
Are the decisions on utilizing
the full skin for the products
optimized enough? Are
the product manufacturers
aware of their cutting rates?
Or do the workers make the
decisions unconsciously?
8.
9. Vanson Leathers
Brahmin Handbags
American Leather Production
Investigating New England’s
leather production system,
two case studies have
compared and discussed:
Vanson Leathers and
Brahmin Handbags. Vanson
Leathers is America’s largest
manufacturer of leather
motorcycle jackets and
motorcycle riding apparel
for men and women. Their
manufacturing headquarter
is located in Fall River,
Massachusetts and known for
obtaining all their materials
within the United States.
Observation
With an in depth history of 40
years in the industry, Vanson
is known as an American
leather apparel brand for
producing the top quality
leather jackets for motorcycle
enthusiasts. Similarly, Brahmin
Handbags pertains a history
of leading a timeless handbag
design in the fashion industry.
Brahmin is based in Fairhaven,
Massachusetts, maintaining
their original factory to be
the only factory in the United
States. The brand strives
to expand their business
globally through Chinese
manufacturers.
10.
11. There are several architectural
typologies associated with
the retrofitting of the lean
manufacturing system within
the confines of a leather
production warehouse. It is
interesting to note that most
alterations that are inherently
visible are more technology
based. Larger computerized
screens overlook the
workforce, as in the case of
Brahmin are absent at Vanson
leathers. However due to
the nature of the building
typology housing, both
production lines share supply
levels at their clerestories. The
conveyor belt is perhaps the
most dramatic elimination
from Brahmin’s setup. At
Vanson’s Fall River factory, the
company has a rolling bed
spanning the length of the
Vason &
Brahmin
production floor.
In comparison to Vanson’s
lengthy conveyor belt,
Brahmin floors are
rendered in polished
concrete to grant smooth
trafficking of trolleys
carrying materials. In
this case, the conveyor
belt strategy is not
ideal for Brahmin or
any lean manufacturing
organization simply
because of the rigidity
of the system and its
independence from the
distribution manager.
Instead, Brahmin’s
circulation is demarcated
using painted strips similar
to a street or runway,
restricting employees’
work movement within
the cells. For aesthetic
purposes, this allows for
a cleaner and more open
environment where dirt
can be addressed and
scraps can easily be thrown
into a bin. However, at
Vanson Leathers, the wood
paneled floors do not aid in
the cells. For aesthetic
purposes, this allows for
a cleaner and more open
environment where dirt
can be addressed and
scraps can easily be thrown
into a bin. However, at
Vanson Leathers, the wood
paneled floors do not aid in
the distribution of trolleys,
and the open space
between the working
stations allows more
freedom to their workers. It
is interesting to note how
the structural system of the
factory is greatly influential
in the streamlining of the
process and the attitude
of the environment for
working in. One could
argue however that
polished concrete exudes
a sense of incubation
to deliver a‘sweat-shop’
aesthetic.
A far more
personalized Vanson
works in conjunct with
their relationships and
thrives to produce
unique work tailored to
customers of a certain
social bracket. While
extreme inefficiencies in
waste production and
environmental care are
left unattended, there is
a warm brought to the
factory as curetted simply
by human connection.
13. For past decades, the
Toyota Production System
has been known as lean
manufacturing system, which
optimize quality by constantly
improving processes and
eliminating unnecessary
waste in natural, human
and corporate resources.
The system influences
every aspect of Toyota’s
organization and includes
a common set of values,
knowledge and procedures.
It entrusts employees with
well-defined responsibilities
in each production step
and encourages every team
member to strive for overall
improvement.
Toyota Production System
fulfills the customer demand
Toyota
Production
System
efficiently by linking all
production activity to real
marketplace demand.
Inspired by American
supermarkets,“Just-in-
Time”production relies on
finely tuned processes in
the assembly sequence
using only the quantities
of items required, only
when they are needed.
This production method
eliminates any form of
“muda”, or waste, such as
overproduction, over-time,
unnecessary movement
and most importantly,
excess inventory. Just-
in-Time method creates
a smooth workflow by
adapting Kanban Card to
the system. The Kanban
card is used to call-up
components, as they are
required. Before stocks
need replenishing, a
Kanban card from the
operator ensures a just-in-
time delivery. The process
is based on a‘pull’principle
– with items called only
as they are required,
as opposed to a‘push’
principle that may not take
account of actual need.
Such efficient production
system allows both
company and the
employees to collaborate
to constantly improve lean
manufacturing process.
14. The story of leather
Waste: Skin Waste: extraneous flesh, pickling
chemicals
Waste: shavings, trimmings, toxic
chemicals.
Raw Material Material Processing
Tanning Process:
Material preparation to convert the
protein of the raw hide into a stable
material.
15. Lean Manufacturing System:
How does each factory pursue lean system?
Componant Processing Distribution- Retail
Leather Jacket
Luxury Handbag
16.
17. Initial Experiment
Process
In collaboration with Vanson Leathers, I was able
to collect a large quantity of leather scraps to
experiment and test design iterations. My initial
experiments extend to various surface manipulations
from paint coatings to hand sewing and sanding.
18. As a traditional way of using
leather scraps, patch-working
can utilize as much scrap
surface as possible. Instead
of traditional squared patch-
work, the whole surfaces were
puzzled and weaved together.
Although the utilization of
whole surfaces seems ideal
for waste elimination, it is
questionable whether the
technique is applicable for
the standard manufacturing
process.
Patching
19. Another way of patching
is to sew every seam of
overlapping layers. The
sewing requires techniques
to sew with industrial sewing
machine and develop keen
calculations on placements.
Design aesthetics can easily
become overwhelming with
multiplication of layers; few
layers need to be skived
in order to maintain a flat
surface.
Although sewing embraces
the most basic technique
of fabric connection,
design aesthetics become
ambiguous and the material
finishing, such as skiving, may
take substantial amount of
time.
Sewing
20. Employing the industrial
technique, multiple surfaces
were glued and laminated
together to sand down
into a flat surface. This
unconventional technique
certainly creates a unique
surface treatment. However,
it is questionable whether the
surface is strong enough to
hold multiple layers together
over time. The process of
creating the flat surface also
requires a long duration of
time to glue and sand.
Sanding
21. Approaching towards an
artistic way, scrap surfaces
were treated with leather
paints to create unique
surface design. Although the
surface treatment is unique, it
is questionable whether the
technique is applicable in the
manufacturing production
system.
Painting
22. Reaching out to fellow
classmates at RISD, I have
conducted workshops inviting
artists and designers to
participate in creating unique
leather products. The idea is
to employ“satellite designers”
who are not abinded to
factory system, but rather act
as independent designers to
create products beyond the
factory gate.
Workshops
23. The initial experiments display
distinctive features of material
explorations. However, the
feasibility of these material
techniques is questionable
to the current leather
manufacturing system. The
following key summaries
ultimately narrow down the
techniques to become more
applicable to the current
leather production system.
- Accessibility to machines
and tools.
- Time and cost efficiency
- Ease to assemble
- Standardized process and
end products
Problems
24.
25. Final Design
Process
Inspired by modular patterns, the final design
iterations include generating digital modular
patterns to assembling three-dimensional forms.
26. Driven by the initial
experiments, various modular
patterns have been created
to examine the potential
possibilities to create a
complex surface design with a
repetition of a simple pattern.
Many modular patterns have
been tested.
Pattern
Exploration
27. In order to speed up the
process of cutting, both laser
and die cutting methods
are introduced to customize
the patterns while utilizing
industrial manufacturing
techniques. Patterns are
digitally made in vector
drawings.
Digital Laser
and Die Cut
28. Each pattern is design to be
connected to one another.
A single pattern infinitely
repeats itself either through
a looping system or an
overlapping system. The
customized patterns are
uniquely designed, so that
the patterns fit according to
scrap size, material type, and
technical needs.
These modular patterns are
not just to create beautiful
surface designs; they are
meant to utilize leather solid
waste as much as possible
through existing factory
machines, such as water jet
cutter and die cutters.
Pattern
Connection
29. The modular patterns
provide infinite creative
opportunities for people
to design various products,
such as leather lampshades,
rugs and vases to fashionable
scarves, hats, and bags. The
patterns are the atoms and
molecules, which transform
from simple two-dimensional
designs to three-dimensional
objects through different
combinations. The users
can assemble a collection of
patterns and self-initiate the
design possibilities to create
unique products. The overall
design concept is to create
objects with patterns, which
represent lifestyle of both
home and fashion products.
The modular patterns are
versatile enough to be
interpreted along with users’
needs. The lifestyle of home
and fashion interplays to
become a bigger realm of
culture. The patterns not only
eliminate the existing leather
waste, but also nourish the
creativity to be applicable for
lifestyle products.
Design
Approach
30. With completed patterns
and prototypes, the project
will be extended to seek
for a retail opportunity,
starting with online stores.
Collaborating with a minimal
viable merchandise store,
such as Etsy, a collection
of patterns and pre-made
products will be sold
individually online. The
purpose of retail expansion
is to effectively communicate
with customers. The solid
waste generated from the
product development could
have been influenced by
communication between the
factory and the buyer, and
the buyer to customers. If the
factories and the customers
communicate directly to each
other, product development
will be more focused towards
customers’needs and value.
This will ultimately eliminate
waste for the future and the
system will follow the model
of Toyota’s“Kanban”pull
method.
Future
Direction
