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Anne Gillespie - Leather & Beef: Adding Skin to the Game

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Leather & Beef: Adding Skin to the Game - Anne Gillespie, Director of Industry Integrity, Textile Exchange, from the 2018 Global Roundtable for Sustainable Beef (GRSB), October 9 - 12, 2018, Kilkenny, Ireland.

More presentations at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJuQkIaCQn5HXVjFbExofkg

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Anne Gillespie - Leather & Beef: Adding Skin to the Game

  1. 1. © ● ● 1 Leather & Beef: Adding Skin to the Game Anne Gillespie, Director of Industry Integrity, Textile Exchange Global Conference on Sustainable Beef / Global Forum on Responsible Leather October 9-12 | Kilkenny, Ireland
  2. 2. Thank you GRSB!
  3. 3. 1. Embed sustainability into evolving business and supply chain strategies. 2. Make it easier for companies to adapt to changing opportunities and requirements in textile sustainability. 3. Ensure that actions taken toward sustainability result in real and meaningful change. We envision a global textile industry that protects and restores the environment and enhances lives. Textile Exchange inspires and equips people to accelerate sustainable practices in the textile value chain.We focus on minimizing the harmful impacts of the global textile industry and maximizing its positive effects. VISION MISSION GOALS
  4. 4. Textile Exchange Around the World PERU BENIN UK SPAIN CANADA USA HEADQUARTERS CHINA INDIA MALAYSIA TURKEY AUSTRALIA Our 20 team members and ambassadors are spread across 11 countries around the globe
  5. 5. Farm/Fiber Suppliers/Manufacturers Brands/Retailers Friends of Textile Exchange MEMBERSHIP NETWORK
  6. 6. JOIN THE COMMUNITY https://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/hidden-treasures-in-milan
  7. 7. Organic Farm Standard Recycled Input Requirements Welfare Requirements Land & Welfare Requirements Recycled Input Requirements CCS Labeling CCS Labeling CCS Labeling CCS Labeling CCS Labeling Chemical Environment Social CCS Textile Exchange Standards Environment Social Chemical
  8. 8. About Responsible Leather Responsible Leather is aTextile Exchange initiative aimed at addressing the many issues found within the global leather supply chain. About Responsible Leather
  9. 9. Responsible Leather Round Table (RLRT) 1. A platform for stakeholders in the leather industry to engage with each other, share information, and identify common challenges and opportunities. 2. A structure for interacting with other organizations and government bodies. 3. A forum to agree on priority issues and take action to advance our mission and vision. We envision a world in which all aspects of the leather value chain are environmentally and socially responsible, promote animal welfare, and is economically viable. Advance responsibility and continuous improvement in the global leather value chain through leadership, inclusive multi-stakeholder engagement and collaboration. VISION MISSION GOALS
  10. 10. Sector Membership 1. Brands and Retailers Companies and associations who bring leather products to consumers. 2. Supply Chain Companies and associations who convert and supply materials for further processing or sale of leather goods. 3. Producers Farmers, organizations and associations who are actively engaged in the ownership and management of live cattle. 4. Civil Society Academic institutions, non‐governmental organizations, non‐commercial institutions, foundations, and associations with a stake in the cattle and leather value chains. 5. Professional Services (Consulting Members) Individuals or organizations such as regulatory authorities, governmental agencies, consulting/auditing firms and donor organizations; do not belong to one of the voting constituencies, but may request membership as Consulting Members. = voting member
  11. 11. Responsible Leather Assessment Tool (RLA) Goals 1. Develop a tool that recognizes and drives best practices in the leather industry, leading to positive social, environmental and animal welfare impacts. 2. Establish a clear benchmark for best practices. 3. Provide companies with a means to link their sourcing to more responsible practices and make accurate claims about how they source. 4. Leverage and add value to the existing tools and programs that are driving better practices in the leather industry. 5. Reward and influence the leather industry to incentivize practices that respect animals, people and the environment. I am NOT a standard!
  12. 12. GRSB LWG WWFCFA Tannery of the Future Responsible Leather Assessment Tool Cow-calf farm Raising farm Finishing farm Slaughter Tannery 1 Tannery 2 Tannery 3 Production Brand/retail ICEC Textile Exchange SAN Global Animal Partnership, etc. * These are examples only. Optional LWG animal welfare risk assessment model ZDHC Etc. SA8000, WRAP, etc.
  13. 13. Theory of Change INDUSTRY BRANDS Demand“Safe” supply Responsible Leather Assessment Tool Responsible Leather Round Table Best Practices
  14. 14. Animal Welfare Farm Transport Slaughter Environmental Impacts Farm (deforestation) Slaughter Tanning Social Impacts Farm Slaughter Tanning Traceability Chain of Custody Book & Claim Data RLA v1 RLA v2 ? RLRT RLRT Evolution of the Tool ?
  15. 15. © ● ● 15 Why leather?
  16. 16. Leather has Global Impacts Leather tanning uses large amounts of water in combination with sometimes harmful chemicals. If not addressed properly, tanning operations can have significant impacts on water quality. From smallholder farmers to slaughterhouse workers to sewers, people contribute to and are impacted by the production of leather. There are many opportunities to improve working conditions and livelihoods of the people involved. Through its connection to the beef industry, leather is strongly linked to the climate impacts of land use. Requiring leather to originate from farms that are not deforesting will have a positive impact on greenhouse gas emissions. Cattle farming gives the opportunity to “take urgent and significant action to reduce the degradation of natural habitats, halt the loss of biodiversity and, by 2020, protect and prevent the extinction of threatened species.”
  17. 17. ©2017Responsible Leather Initiative | Stakeholder Meeting #417 According to LCA calculations, 95% of the economic value is allocated to food. (lcafood2014.org) Therefore, Leather is < 5% of the economic value of a cow The leather industry is about $40 billion The value of the RLI stakeholders is > $1.2 trillion The apparel industry is $1.7 trillion The Numbers
  18. 18. “Europe’s animal farming sector has exceeded safe bounds for greenhouse gas emissions, nutrient flows and biodiversity loss, and urgently needs to be scaled back, according to a major report.” “The study calls for the European commission to urgently set up a formal inquiry mandated to propose measures – including taxes and subsidies – that “discourage livestock products harmful to health, climate or the environment”. Livestock has the world’s largest land footprint and is growing fast, with close to 80% of the planet’s agricultural land now used for grazing and animal feed production, even though meat delivers just 18% of our calories.”
  19. 19. Sourcing Journal “ETC Group and Fibershed … cautions that any commercial-scale expansion of biosynthetic fabrics, such those derived from genetically engineered (GE) microorganisms, could exert undue pressures on ecosystems while creating potentially dangerous sources biotech waste. Worse, by diverting support from so-called “truly sustainable” natural fiber economies, such technologies could also undermine farmers worldwide.” Grand View Research “The global synthetic leather market is expected to reach USD 85.05 billion by 2025, according to a new report by Grand View Research, Inc. Globally increasing applications in foot wears has been a major factor driving market growth. In addition, increasing focus towards animal rights led by several organizations and rising stringency in laws governing real leather are propelling demand for synthetic leather.”
  20. 20. © ● ● 22 Why Beef?
  21. 21. Overlapping Goals "We envision a world in which all aspects of the beef value chain are environmentally sound, socially responsible and economically viable." “We envision a global textile industry that protects and restores the environment and enhances lives.” "The GRSB mission is to advance continuous improvement in sustainability of the global beef value chain through leadership, science and multi- stakeholder engagement and collaboration." “Textile Exchange inspires and equips people to accelerate sustainable practices in the textile value chain. We focus on minimizing the harmful impacts of the global textile industry and maximizing its positive effects.” VISION
  22. 22. Environmental impact Social impact Traceability and quality Continuous improvement and education Animal welfare
  23. 23. Land Use Change Carbo n Tradin g Science Busine ss Risk Targets Quantis Collaboration for Forests and Agriculture (CFA) Ceres UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) Accountability Framework Initiative Science Based Targets (SBT) World Wildlife Fund (WWF) UN: Reducing Emissions from Deforestation and Forest Degradation (REDD)Principles for Responsible Investment (PRI) World Business Council for Sustainable Development (WBCSD) Carbon Disclosure Project Regional GRSB Roundtables UN Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) Canopy Greenpeace Paris Agreement (COP 21) Who do we work (and align) with?Global Roundtable for Sustainable Beef – (GRSB) Rabobank? Financ e New York Declaration on Forests FSC IPI Native Energy Rainforest AllianceSustainable Agriculture Network (SAN) RTRS FAO: group focusing on biodiversity EMPRAPA: research on cattle ranching impacts
  24. 24. Feedlots Manufacturing Footwear Restaurants Retail & Supermarkets Automotive & Transport Equestrian Furnishings Raising Farms Cow-calf Farms Consumers Slaughterhouse Leather Tanning Meat Processing Apparel
  25. 25. GRSB Regional Roundtables Sub-regional Roundtables Partner Organizations Connecting Groups Millions of Producers
  26. 26. © ● ● 29 Opportunities
  27. 27. Leather Naturally Responsible Leather Beef/leather supply network Global marketing and PR campaign to promote leather: aimed at Gen Z and millenials B2B, ensuring a strong foundation of best practices to deliver authenticity Producers and companies meeting best practices, and sharing their stories. Workingtogether to tell credible and consistent stories
  28. 28. Cow-calf farm Raising farm Finishing farm Slaughter Tannery 1 Tannery 2 Tannery 3 Production Brand/retail Workingtogether to provide full supply chain traceability.
  29. 29. Traceability to slaughterhouse and Direct Farm theoretically possible
  30. 30. Traceability to birthing farm theoretically possible
  31. 31. Cow-calf farm Raising farm Finishing farm Slaughter Tannery 1 Tannery 2 Tannery 3 Production Brand/retail Certificates are registered onto the trading platform by farms and slaughterhouses. Brands and retailers can purchase the certificates and make claims. Credit System
  32. 32. Cow-calf farm Raising farm Finishing farm Slaughter Tannery 1 Tannery 2 Tannery 3 Production Brand/retail ?
  33. 33. Be open. Listen. Learn. Share your reality. UBUNTU: “I am because we are”
  34. 34. Friday, October 12th 7:00 a.m. – 8:30 a.m. A Sustainability Sunrise Session: Leather & Beef 8:30 a.m. – 9:00 a.m. Break 9:00 a.m. – 9:30 a.m. Opening & Welcome to the Global Meeting of the RLRT 9:30 a.m. – 10:30 a.m. Why Act Now? 10:30 a.m. – 10:50 a.m. Break 10:50 a.m. – 11:00 a.m. Introduction to Working Sessions 11:00 a.m. – 11:45 a.m. Animal Welfare Working Session 11:45 a.m. – 12:15 p.m. Land Use Change Impacts of Farming Working Session 12:15 p.m. – 1:15 p.m. Lunch 1:15 p.m. – 2:15 p.m. Leather Manufacturing Working Session 2:15 p.m. - 3:00 p.m. Social Issues Working Session 3:00 p.m. – 3:30 p.m. Break 3:30 p.m. – 4:15 p.m. Credit Trading and Traceability Working Session 4:15 p.m. – 4:50 p.m. Language and Claims Working Session 4:50 p.m. – 5:00 p.m. Closing Session 5:15 p.m. – 6:15 p.m. Cocktail Hour
  35. 35. Thank you GRSB!
  36. 36. 1. Embed sustainability into evolving business and supply chain strategies. 2. Make it easier for companies to adapt to changing opportunities and requirements in textile sustainability. 3. Ensure that actions taken toward sustainability result in real and meaningful change. We envision a global textile industry that protects and restores the environment and enhances lives. Textile Exchange inspires and equips people to accelerate sustainable practices in the textile value chain.We focus on minimizing the harmful impacts of the global textile industry and maximizing its positive effects. VISION MISSION GOALS
  37. 37. Textile Exchange Around the World PERU BENIN UK SPAIN CANADA USA HEADQUARTERS CHINA INDIA MALAYSIA TURKEY AUSTRALIA Our 20 team members and ambassadors are spread across 11 countries around the globe
  38. 38. Farm/Fiber Suppliers/Manufacturers Brands/Retailers Friends of Textile Exchange MEMBERSHIP NETWORK
  39. 39. JOIN THE COMMUNITY https://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/hidden-treasures-in-milan
  40. 40. Organic Farm Standard Recycled Input Requirements Welfare Requirements Land & Welfare Requirements Recycled Input Requirements CCS Labeling CCS Labeling CCS Labeling CCS Labeling CCS Labeling Chemical Environment Social CCS Textile Exchange Standards Environment Social Chemical
  41. 41. About Responsible Leather Responsible Leather is aTextile Exchange initiative aimed at addressing the many issues found within the global leather supply chain. About Responsible Leather
  42. 42. Responsible Leather Round Table (RLRT) 1. A platform for stakeholders in the leather industry to engage with each other, share information, and identify common challenges and opportunities. 2. A structure for interacting with other organizations and government bodies. 3. A forum to agree on priority issues and take action to advance our mission and vision. We envision a world in which all aspects of the leather value chain are environmentally and socially responsible, promote animal welfare, and is economically viable. Advance responsibility and continuous improvement in the global leather value chain through leadership, inclusive multi-stakeholder engagement and collaboration. VISION MISSION GOALS
  43. 43. Sector Membership 1. Brands and Retailers Companies and associations who bring leather products to consumers. 2. Supply Chain Companies and associations who convert and supply materials for further processing or sale of leather goods. 3. Producers Farmers, organizations and associations who are actively engaged in the ownership and management of live cattle. 4. Civil Society Academic institutions, non‐governmental organizations, non‐commercial institutions, foundations, and associations with a stake in the cattle and leather value chains. 5. Professional Services (Consulting Members) Individuals or organizations such as regulatory authorities, governmental agencies, consulting/auditing firms and donor organizations; do not belong to one of the voting constituencies, but may request membership as Consulting Members. = voting member
  44. 44. Responsible Leather Assessment Tool (RLA) Goals 1. Develop a tool that recognizes and drives best practices in the leather industry, leading to positive social, environmental and animal welfare impacts. 2. Establish a clear benchmark for best practices. 3. Provide companies with a means to link their sourcing to more responsible practices and make accurate claims about how they source. 4. Leverage and add value to the existing tools and programs that are driving better practices in the leather industry. 5. Reward and influence the leather industry to incentivize practices that respect animals, people and the environment. I am NOT a standard!
  45. 45. GRSB LWG WWFCFA Tannery of the Future Responsible Leather Assessment Tool Cow-calf farm Raising farm Finishing farm Slaughter Tannery 1 Tannery 2 Tannery 3 Production Brand/retail ICEC Textile Exchange SAN Global Animal Partnership, etc. * These are examples only. Optional LWG animal welfare risk assessment model ZDHC Etc. SA8000, WRAP, etc.
  46. 46. Theory of Change INDUSTRY BRANDS Demand“Safe” supply Responsible Leather Assessment Tool Responsible Leather Round Table Best Practices
  47. 47. Animal Welfare Farm Transport Slaughter Environmental Impacts Farm (deforestation) Slaughter Tanning Social Impacts Farm Slaughter Tanning Traceability Chain of Custody Book & Claim Data RLA v1 RLA v2 ? RLRT RLRT Evolution of the Tool ?
  48. 48. © ● ● 51 Why leather?
  49. 49. Leather has Global Impacts Leather tanning uses large amounts of water in combination with sometimes harmful chemicals. If not addressed properly, tanning operations can have significant impacts on water quality. From smallholder farmers to slaughterhouse workers to sewers, people contribute to and are impacted by the production of leather. There are many opportunities to improve working conditions and livelihoods of the people involved. Through its connection to the beef industry, leather is strongly linked to the climate impacts of land use. Requiring leather to originate from farms that are not deforesting will have a positive impact on greenhouse gas emissions. Cattle farming gives the opportunity to “take urgent and significant action to reduce the degradation of natural habitats, halt the loss of biodiversity and, by 2020, protect and prevent the extinction of threatened species.”
  50. 50. ©2017Responsible Leather Initiative | Stakeholder Meeting #453 According to LCA calculations, 95% of the economic value is allocated to food. (lcafood2014.org) Therefore, Leather is < 5% of the economic value of a cow The leather industry is about $40 billion The value of the RLI stakeholders is > $1.2 trillion The apparel industry is $1.7 trillion The Numbers
  51. 51. “Europe’s animal farming sector has exceeded safe bounds for greenhouse gas emissions, nutrient flows and biodiversity loss, and urgently needs to be scaled back, according to a major report.” “The study calls for the European commission to urgently set up a formal inquiry mandated to propose measures – including taxes and subsidies – that “discourage livestock products harmful to health, climate or the environment”. Livestock has the world’s largest land footprint and is growing fast, with close to 80% of the planet’s agricultural land now used for grazing and animal feed production, even though meat delivers just 18% of our calories.”
  52. 52. Sourcing Journal “ETC Group and Fibershed … cautions that any commercial-scale expansion of biosynthetic fabrics, such those derived from genetically engineered (GE) microorganisms, could exert undue pressures on ecosystems while creating potentially dangerous sources biotech waste. Worse, by diverting support from so-called “truly sustainable” natural fiber economies, such technologies could also undermine farmers worldwide.” Grand View Research “The global synthetic leather market is expected to reach USD 85.05 billion by 2025, according to a new report by Grand View Research, Inc. Globally increasing applications in foot wears has been a major factor driving market growth. In addition, increasing focus towards animal rights led by several organizations and rising stringency in laws governing real leather are propelling demand for synthetic leather.”
  53. 53. © ● ● 58 Why Beef?
  54. 54. Overlapping Goals "We envision a world in which all aspects of the beef value chain are environmentally sound, socially responsible and economically viable." “We envision a global textile industry that protects and restores the environment and enhances lives.” "The GRSB mission is to advance continuous improvement in sustainability of the global beef value chain through leadership, science and multi- stakeholder engagement and collaboration." “Textile Exchange inspires and equips people to accelerate sustainable practices in the textile value chain. We focus on minimizing the harmful impacts of the global textile industry and maximizing its positive effects.” VISION
  55. 55. Environmental impact Social impact Traceability and quality Continuous improvement and education Animal welfare
  56. 56. Land Use Change Carbo n Tradin g Science Busine ss Risk Targets Quantis Collaboration for Forests and Agriculture (CFA) Ceres UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) Accountability Framework Initiative Science Based Targets (SBT) World Wildlife Fund (WWF) UN: Reducing Emissions from Deforestation and Forest Degradation (REDD)Principles for Responsible Investment (PRI) World Business Council for Sustainable Development (WBCSD) Carbon Disclosure Project Regional GRSB Roundtables UN Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) Canopy Greenpeace Paris Agreement (COP 21) Who do we work (and align) with?Global Roundtable for Sustainable Beef – (GRSB) Rabobank? Financ e New York Declaration on Forests FSC IPI Native Energy Rainforest AllianceSustainable Agriculture Network (SAN) RTRS FAO: group focusing on biodiversity EMPRAPA: research on cattle ranching impacts
  57. 57. Feedlots Manufacturing Footwear Restaurants Retail & Supermarkets Automotive & Transport Equestrian Furnishings Raising Farms Cow-calf Farms Consumers Slaughterhouse Leather Tanning Meat Processing Apparel
  58. 58. GRSB Regional Roundtables Sub-regional Roundtables Partner Organizations Connecting Groups Millions of Producers
  59. 59. © ● ● 65 Opportunities Together
  60. 60. Leather Naturally Responsible Leather Beef/leather supply network Global marketing and PR campaign to promote leather: aimed at Gen Z and millenials B2B, ensuring a strong foundation of best practices to deliver authenticity Producers and companies meeting best practices, and sharing their stories. Workingtogether to tell credible and consistent stories
  61. 61. Cow-calf farm Raising farm Finishing farm Slaughter Tannery 1 Tannery 2 Tannery 3 Production Brand/retail Workingtogether to provide full supply chain traceability.
  62. 62. Traceability to slaughterhouse and Direct Farm theoretically possible
  63. 63. Traceability to birthing farm theoretically possible
  64. 64. Cow-calf farm Raising farm Finishing farm Slaughter Tannery 1 Tannery 2 Tannery 3 Production Brand/retail Certificates are registered onto the trading platform by farms and slaughterhouses. Brands and retailers can purchase the certificates and make claims. Credit System
  65. 65. Cow-calf farm Raising farm Finishing farm Slaughter Tannery 1 Tannery 2 Tannery 3 Production Brand/retail ?
  66. 66. Be open. Listen. Learn. Share your reality. UBUNTU: “I am because we are”
  67. 67. Friday, October 12th 7:00 a.m. – 8:30 a.m. A Sustainability Sunrise Session: Leather & Beef 8:30 a.m. – 9:00 a.m. Break 9:00 a.m. – 9:30 a.m. Opening & Welcome to the Global Meeting of the RLRT 9:30 a.m. – 10:30 a.m. Why Act Now? 10:30 a.m. – 10:50 a.m. Break 10:50 a.m. – 11:00 a.m. Introduction to Working Sessions 11:00 a.m. – 11:45 a.m. Animal Welfare Working Session 11:45 a.m. – 12:15 p.m. Land Use Change Impacts of Farming Working Session 12:15 p.m. – 1:15 p.m. Lunch 1:15 p.m. – 2:15 p.m. Leather Manufacturing Working Session 2:15 p.m. - 3:00 p.m. Social Issues Working Session 3:00 p.m. – 3:30 p.m. Break 3:30 p.m. – 4:15 p.m. Credit Trading and Traceability Working Session 4:15 p.m. – 4:50 p.m. Language and Claims Working Session 4:50 p.m. – 5:00 p.m. Closing Session 5:15 p.m. – 6:15 p.m. Cocktail Hour
  68. 68. About Responsible Leather www.ResponsibleLeather.org ResponsibleLeather@TextileExchange.org About Responsible Leather

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