An article by Scott Rains from Spinal Injury's Forward magazine February 2010

1. THE MAGAZINE OF THE SPINAL INJURIES ASSOCIATION February 2010 £3 Issue 95
BROUGHT TO YOU THROUGH OUR PARTNERSHIP WITH
Read about the
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2. 24
Holidaying in Cyprus
SIA member Peter Adams METRO Cyprus Accessible
visited Cyprus last year and is Transport offers specially
keen to pass on to other adapted vehicles for wheelchair
members details of companies users, medical equipment
offering accessible transport rentals and sales and
and personal assistance accessible accommodation.
services.
Contact Andreas Hadjiktoris, his email addresses are:
info@metroparamobility.com; mobility@primehome.com;
reservations@metroparamobility.com
Website: www.metroparamobility.com
Visiting the
I
t’s not like I am a celestial
navigator. I couldn’t find my
way home from the corner pub
by looking at the stars even if all
I had to drink was Stone’s Ginger
Beer. Set me sailing out on the
ocean at night by the stars –
well, I’ve never been sailing at
night so I’m not certain – but I
imagine you would never hear
from me until I drifted up on a
forsaken beach somewhere.
So I kept the shades closed on
the 15-hour flight from the east
coast of the US to Johannesburg
and I didn’t see the night sky
until I was safely tucked away in
a wheelchair-accessible hut at
Hilltop Camp inside Hluluwe
Game Reserve – but that’s
jumping too far ahead in the
story.
Jennae Bezuidenhout of Access
2 Africa Safaris is an enterprising
woman. She is the reason I was
able to make this trip. She and
her husband J. J. live in the area
of Kwazulu Natal Province South
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3. 25
I travel a lot – more than
most other tetraplegics
that I know. Even so, when
I first look up at the sky
on every trip to the
Elephant Coast southern hemisphere I am
temporarily disoriented.
Africa known as the Elephant and experience as part of the The park’s Zulu themes are
Coast. Surrounded by about 400 team that travels with immediately apparent. So is the
game reserves, animal rehabilitation Dr Stephen Hawking. Introduced good integration of accessible
centres, sporting, leisure, and to our driver Aubrey who would paths of travel. Unifying design
vacation destinations she lives and accompany us throughout the themes were noticeable while
breathes travel industry in a corner tour we used the tailgate lift to passing through shops lining the
of the country north of Durban. enter the van provided by first several blocks beyond the
Since her husband’s paralysis she Budget rentals and began the entrance. I was captivated by my
has taken what she has learned journey. first exposure to what I later
from her personal and business came to know as ‘wiremen’.
environments and woven them into Jennae’s wisdom was apparent These are sculptures made of
something unique. She has become from the start. Rather than wire (sometimes beaded) and
a provider of – and an evangelist for rushing off to ‘relax’ in the bush then illuminated.
– safaris that include travellers with we spent some time settling into
mobility impairments and other a City Lodge in Durban. The snorkelling pond was closed
disabilities. We ambled through the adjacent and the surf a little too vigorous
Gateway Mall purchasing the so we watched the water world
Arriving on a connecting flight of odds and ends that inevitably get rather than entered it. The park’s
one more hour in the air, I met my forgotten when packing for a aquarium is housed in what
smiling tall blonde South African month-long trip. looks like a beached shipwreck.
hostess and the other specialist in Charming – and easily
Inclusive Tourism who would be Well-provisioned – and wheelchair accessible via the
part of this 11-day tour. Monica impressed by the indoor climbing same series of long ramps used
Guy is a sparklingly intelligent rock and standing wave surf by all visitors.
young British travel writer. facility in the mall – we took a
She came with a pedigree including day trip to North Beach and From Durban our trip took us to
having written the first campus Shake Marine World. Shake is nearby Kloof and a stay at the
accessibility guide for Cambridge the largest marine theme park in remarkable Macaranga Lodge
University, a prolific collection of Africa and includes the fifth and Spa built in the 30-acre
online and print tour guide writing, largest aquarium in the world.
continued overleaf
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4. 26
continued from previous page its imposing view, the hut was a food than we could eat and a
quiet retreat in an already relaxing permanent show of inpala and
grounds of a botanical garden. environment. wart wogs grazing on the lawn.
The owners have augmented the A whole new set of skills and
beauty with a collection of Shone senses are awakened in the bush.
stone sculptures. From regal to The ranger amazed us by spotting
playful these works of art set a chameleon no larger than my
throughout the grounds are only index finger clinging to a bush
part of the personal touch. during a night drive – pitch black
Each room has original artwork with only a lamp to see by.
collected by the owners. One
half of the rooms are wheelchair Before returning to Durban and
friendly. Even the pool can be another delightful stay at
rolled into in a wheelchair. Macaranga Lodge we had two
Macarena is a rare find among other adventures.
high-end lodgings.
We got a warm welcome at
The overland portion of our Dumazulu Cultural Village.
adventure began with the drive A side trip to Ilala Weaver’s We watched the athletic Zulu
to Hluluwe Game Reserve. Co-op store was a feast for dancers. Then I sang a capella
I transferred to one of the narrow someone with a strong desire to with them (in Zulu!) wearing an
jump seats and gained a view support local craftspeople and animal skin hat with a tail flopping
out of the side window. The hut indigenous arts. The business behind. It reminded me of the
at Hluluwe was spacious and model is fair trade with works raccoon-skin caps we used to call
convenient. Situated at a purchased from local artisans who ‘Daniel Boone’ hats.
distance from the restaurant and are in turn compensated fairly.
In turn they have the guaranteed We also headed to St Lucia and its
income that allows them to World Heritage estuary network.
mature in their art form. Literally risking life and limb to get
The results were obvious on every from the inaccessible dock to an
shelf. If there are any regrets Advantage Tours cruise I was
about my trip it is that I did not immediately rewarded when we
have a few hundred more dollars came upon a fish eagle, a colony
on hand to purchase the of brilliant yellow weaver birds, and
beadwork, wood carvings, and a family of hippos. I was later
Zulu baskets that so captivated impressed to see Advantage Tours’
me. new wheelchair-friendly boat
waiting on land for permission to
But the heart of the trip were the launch.
game drives! It would be tedious
to read in print the long list of all South Africa’s Elephant Coast is
the animals we saw. Of course the an under-explored tourist gem.
‘big guys’ were there: giraffe, With the slower pace,
Cape buffalo, rhino, and professionals like Jennae and her
wildebeest. So were colourful Access 2 Africa Safaris can offer
birds, tiny steenbok, humorous close personalised service.
wart hogs, moody hyenas, and The area’s ‘hidden secret’ identity
majestic leopards. Just driving is about to change however.
from one place to another was an The new Durban airport with direct
adventure of ‘firsts’! Tour Guide, inbound international flights will go
Dave Davies, of the nearby online in time for the 2010 World
Hluluwe backpacker’s lodge was Cup.
superb.
There is a story that circulates
Later, our nights in the accessible around the Rains’ family.
hut at Bonamanzi Game Reserve It surfaced as we did some digging
were very enjoyable. We had more into our genealogy recently.
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5. 27
It generally starts with the
lines, “The Rains came over
the mountain (the Cumberland
Gap during the westward
expansion in the US) with
Daniel Boone.”
Maybe it’s just a rationalisation
for my wanderlust. Still, I
sense a kinship of spirit with
Daniel Boone who is reported
to have said, in answer to the
question, “Have you ever been
lost?” – “No, but I was once a
might confused for a few
days.”
I recommend taking a chance
on a few confused nights
under South African skies. Find out more
Get lost if you are so inclined.
Access2africasafaris
Website: www.access2africasafaris.co.za
If you run into one of those
Email: info@access2africasafaris.co.za
cool Zulu ‘Daniel Boone’ hats,
Tour Guide: Dave Davies, Hluluwe Backpacker’s Lodge
send me one, ok? 0027 35 5620357
Email: info@hluhluwebackpackers@lantic.net
Scott Rains
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