Leo Sances and Michael Zink own Prospera Farm in Berlin, WI, where they grow organic produce without chemical pesticides or fertilizers. They enrich the soil with chicken manure for nitrogen. The author visits the farm and helps transplant tomato seedlings, feeling connected to where her food comes from. Prospera Farm's organic crops are available for purchase through community supported agriculture drop boxes in Chicago or at fine restaurants, representing the intersection of city and country life.

1. The Grass is Always Greener
Going organic at Prospera Farms.
Sunday May 22, 2005 by Jennifer Wennig
This was to be a day of truths.
Truth. I cannot and probably should not sing within ear shot of another living soul.
But solo road trips are synonymous with sipping self-serve cappuccino from a
Styrofoam cup (purchased at the Stuckey’s gas station); eating junk food,
convincing yourself that calories consumed in the car don’t count; and signing.
Loudly.
Say what you will, but my preferred road trip selections are played by stations
like The Lite. I realize I’m quickly descending into pathetic-ville with this
admission, but for a stretch along 94 I was belting out the words to "Dust in the
Wind," "Memories" and the "The Rose" with tremendous enthusiasm yet little, if
any, tone.
Truth. Open country roads beg one to speed. When you do find yourself behind a
slow-moving vehicle (think tractors), passing should be a cinch. But I rarely dare
to pass on two lane roads even though that dotted white line makes this
permissible. I just don’t think it’s a wise move. Another speeding car piloted by
another urban fugitive distractedly proclaiming “look, that barn is even cuter than
the last 27,” spells danger.
Truth. Organic does not have to mean expensive produce at Whole Foods. Like
many of you, I’ve started buying and eating organic assuming it’s better for me.
And, it’s everywhere. On menus at trendy eateries, on the shelves of my favorite
neighborhood gourmet groceries. But, what’s the deal? Who’s growing it and
what exactly makes it “organic.”
Grab your overalls. We’re going farming. We’ll at least we’re going to meet some
farmers as this time of year is mostly about preparation, not harvest.
Leo Sances and Michael Zink, co-owners of Prospera Farm of Berlin, WI, are two
savvy former Chicagoans striving to raise our awareness about the immense
benefits of supporting local organic farms. “Basically, organic refers to growing
systems based in nature,” offered Sances. “Organic is not trendy, it’s healthy.
Many of the older people out here are organic, because that’s the way they used
to grow. There is a progressive culture here.”
Organic farms grow crops without the use of chemical pesticides or fertilizers.
When pesticides are called for, as when taking the pesky Colorado potato beetle
to task, an organic pesticide made from canola oil and an extract of
chrysanthemum flowers is used.
"To organically grow our crops, the soil must be healthy," said Sances.
"Obviously, we can eat and sell the eggs, but the chicken manure is an essential
bi-product. Chicken manure is rich in nitrogen which is highly beneficial to the
soil." The manure can be taken from the coop and spread, let’s say in the
orchard, or the chickens can graze, eating the grass and bugs, and when they,
shall we say relieve themselves, nitrogen will naturally return to the soil. That’s
sustainability.
Leo and Michael also share their 60 acres with two beloved bulldogs (Beatrice
and Sophie), Tucker the cat, bees (honey producing and essential for pollination)
and at least one slimy, slithering snake that evoked my only city girl shriek. Leo
and I, with Bea bringing up the rear, were strolling about the farm when all of
sudden a long, skinny, black thing appeared in my path. Leo didn’t blink, but I
was freaked. It wasn’t any more unnerving than when a rat actually started to
climb the steps of my former apartment front porch when I was, hello, sitting
there minding my own business. Brazen city rat. The country snake knew his
place and just kept-a-wiggling’ along.
After my hosts nibbled on sandwiches and shared tea with me, we headed to the
greenhouse to transplant tomato seedlings into larger pots. Last summer I raised
container tomato plants. While it was so fulfilling to watch the fruit (did you know
tomatoes are a fruit?) bloom and eventually be enjoyed atop a spinach salad or
on a lightly toasted sandwich of avocado and cucumber, I couldn’t help but feel
that this was different. These tomatoes may end up on someone’s homemade
grilled pizza this summer. That’s pretty heady stuff and wasn’t something I had
given much thought.
My time working in the greenhouse wasn’t terribly long. But it left a deep
impression that has lasted much longer than the dirt that settled into my nails.
One final truth. Every day Leo and Michael rise to do essential, exhausting and
heartfelt work. Maybe they are forging a path that other Chicagoans can follow.
The seeds for Prospera Farm were planted when, still living in Chicago, they
befriended an elderly neighbor with a double lot and began growing vegetables,
medicinal herbs and flowers in the space.
We live in a culture that is so disconnected from the foods we eat. Maybe if we
took greater interest in where and by whom our food was raised we wouldn’t
accept eating a piece of chemically treated produce that traveled more than
1,000 miles before finding its resting place in the Jewel.
Traffic Jammed...Where Country and City Seamlessly Intersect:
Prospera Farm represents an ideal Traffic Jam. You needn’t travel to Wisconsin
to delight in the fruits of Leo and Michael's labor. Beginning in June, Prospera
Farm provides monthly organic CSA drop boxes available for purchase at Sprout
Home (745 N. Damen). For a mere $35, you can enjoy a bushel box full of the
freshest, naturally raised produce in the comfort of your own kitchen. To learn
more, visit Sprouthome.com.
If you prefer to have your tasty organic vegetables prepared and served to you
while sipping a dirty martini, you’re in luck. Prospera’s crops can be found in the
kitchens of some of Chicago’s finest restaurants including Spring, Crofton on
Wells and Green Zebra.
Jennifer Wennig chronicles her city-goes-country adventures the second
Tuesday of every month in "Traffic Jam." To recommend something she should
try, please email her your brilliant ideas.
© 2005