thesis final draft bees

By Chase Willette ENVR 395-Fall 2016
Advisors: Derek Larson and Troy Knight

Willette, p.2
Abstract: Honeybees are critical to Minnesota’s environment and agricultural
economy responsible for the survival of numerous plant species that rely on
pollination including over one-third of foods enjoyed by humans but they are
declining at alarming rates all around the world. Beekeeping is becoming
increasingly popular and is an effective way to help reverse this decline in bee
populations, which can be done successfully nearly anywhere with the right
investment of space, time and money. Beekeeping isn’t necessarily difficult but there
are potential barriers one could face when trying to keep their own bees. In this
paper I will determine how to decide whether you should begin a backyard bee
operation while highlighting the best practices for first time beekeepers and how to
overcome political, physical and psychological barriers anyone could face during
their effort to successfully maintain bees specifically in urban and suburban areas.
Introduction
Honeybees are declining at alarming rates around the world due to loss of
habitat, disease, parasites and pesticides. Honeybees are essential to Minnesota’s
agricultural economy pollinating over one-third of foods enjoyed by humans and
produce a number of desirable items such as honey and beeswax. In addition,
honeybees play a crucial role in the environment as pollinators responsible for the
survival of numerous plant species that many other members of the ecosystem
depend on.
Humans are largely responsible for the massive decline in bees but hobby
beekeeping has become an increasingly popular part of the movement to help
reverse this trend. Beekeeping is an effective way to increase honeybee populations

Willette, p.3
in your area and can be done successfully nearly anywhere with the right
investment of time, space, and money. Unfortunately, when keeping bees in
Minnesota, especially in an urban or suburban environment, there are a number of
issues one could face with neighbors, laws and the health of the hive that could
hinder your ability to become a beekeeper. There are different needs that must be
met depending on your specific urban or suburban environment, which every new
beekeeper should consider in order to ensure their success.
This paper will explain how to decide to become a beekeeper while
highlighting the best practices for first time beekeepers and how to overcome
political, physical, and psychological barriers one could face during their effort to
successfully maintain bees specifically in Minnesota. In order to accomplish this I
analyzed numerous journals, articles, books, legal documents and online sources
focused on beekeeping to provide the necessary understanding of bees, hives, and
essential equipment, and what to consider before beginning a hobby beekeeping
operation. This knowledge was used to determine a basic model for first time
beekeepers and to highlight common issues along with their solutions when trying
to maintain backyard bees in Minnesota. In addition, I conducted multiple
interviews with hobby beekeepers in Minnesota asking questions including: how
they got their start; what benefits they receive; what laws and regulations they had
to comply with; the costs in terms of money and time; the biggest challenges they’ve
faced and how these were overcome; and the best tip they could give to first-time
beekeeper. Understanding different experiences of hobby beekeepers and
establishing particular issues specific to Minnesota helped develop a list of

Willette, p.4
questions to ask oneself before deciding to keep bees in Minnesota. By the end of
this paper you will know how to determine if it is legal for you to keep bees, how
much it will cost, how much work is required, the benefits of keeping bees and how
to decide if beekeeping is right for you.
Hobby Beekeeping
Humans have been after honey for millennia with the very oldest record of
honey collection being from 15,000 years ago.1 Although this sort of collection was
more like honey stealing not beekeeping. The oldest form of beekeeping, in which
hives were kept for the purpose of collecting honey, took place at least 6000 years
ago in ancient Egypt.2 The basic idea of beekeeping throughout history has always
been the same: give the bees a place to live, let them make honey and take it from
them but until the 18th century beekeepers would kill the bees in order to harvest
the honey.3
The original hives used to be completely enclosed woven baskets (called
skeps) with only a single opening for the bees and no way for the beekeeper to get
inside besides destroying the hive entirely.4 Thus, to avoid dealing with thousands
of angry bees when harvesting the honey they would hold a burning piece of sulfur
at the entrance until all the bees suffocated. Then, they could shake all the bees out
and collect the honey without any concern. Then in 1770, Thomas Wildman
1 Baessler, Liz. A Potted History of Beekeeping. PerfectBee LLC. (2016).
https://www.perfectbee.com/learn-about-bees/a-potted-history-of-beekeeping/
2 Phil Rant. Backyard Beekeeping and Honey Production. (Ramsbury: Crowood.
2011), 17.
4 Ibid.

Willette, p.5
invented a new kind of hive to put an end to the inhuman slaughter of bees.5
Wildman’s style of hive isn’t much different from the ones still used today. He
incorporated a removable lid and seven frames that were hung from the top for bees
to build on in the woven baskets.6 In addition, hives could be stacked allowing bees
to work their way into the new hive, leaving the old one relatively bee-free to easily
collect honey from.
The next breakthrough came in 1851, Lorenzo Langstroth developed a new
type of beehive that is more or less unchanged today and is the most popular model
in North America.7 This model builds upon Wildman’s idea of hanging frames and
stacked separate spaces. He replaced the woven skeps with sturdy wooden boxes
and improved the hanging frames by making them completely removable. The key
part of this new model was leaving a one centimeter space between each frame. The
old style of hanging frames had a problem of bees filling in spaces between them
with comb and propolis, a kind of stiff glue bees use to insulate and hold the hive
together.8 By leaving a one centimeter space the bees leave it open rather than
building across, allowing frames to be removed one at a time without ripping the
comb apart and seriously upsetting the bees. The Langstroth hive was revolutionary
allowing beekeepers to monitor their hives as often as they wanted, observe the
queen’s progress and keep disease in check.
5 Ibid.
7 Ibid.
8 Ibid.

Willette, p.6
Beekeeping is the maintenance of honeybee colonies by humans in order to
collect their honey, other products (including beeswax, propolis, pollen and royal
jelly), and to pollinate vegetation. Royal jelly is a milky secretion produced by
worker honeybees, which is used for the development and nurturing of queen bees
but people use it as medicine.9 Beekeeping operations range from hobbyist, meaning
you do it for pleasure, to sideliner, meaning you do it to make a certain amount of
money, to commercial, meaning you do it for a real, sustainable amount of money to
live off of. Hobbyist beekeepers typically have anywhere from 1 to 25 colonies they
care for while a commercial beekeeper has anywhere from 300 to over 1000
colonies.10 This paper will focus on hobby beekeeping operations for first-timers on
the scale of one to two hives. A hobby beekeeper may want to keep bees for the
products they produce, for the benefits of their valuable services as pollinators or
perhaps simply for the enjoyment of learning more about one of nature’s most
interesting insects.11 A commercial beekeeper is more interested in the products
they produce and their value in agricultural production.
Beekeeping is much more important than merely the value of the honey and
beeswax produced annually because of its interrelationship with agriculture.
Honeybees help pollinate agricultural crops, home gardens and wildlife habitat.
Growers of several commodities depend on honeybee pollination. Millions of acres
9 "Royal Jelly: Uses, Side Effects, Interactions and Warnings." WebMD.
http://www.webmd.com/vitamins-supplements/ingredientmono-503-
royal%20jelly.aspx?activeingredientid=503. (Accessed November 19, 2016).
10 "Honey." National Honey Board. http://www.honey.com/. (Accessed December
20, 2016).
11 Clarence Collison, “Beekeeping Basics.” Mid-Atlantic Apiculture Research and
Extension Consortium. (2004), 2.

Willette, p.7
of U.S. fruit, vegetable, oilseed and legume seed crops depend on insect pollination,
including honeybees. Norman Gary states, “Approximately one-third of all the food
we eat is dependent on honeybee pollination.”12 The USDA has estimated that 80
percent of insect crop pollination is accomplished by honeybees.13
The basic equipment you need for beekeeping includes the components of
the hive, protective gear, smoker, hive tool and the equipment needed for handling
the honey crop. There are four basic components to a beehive. There is the bottom
board, the supers, the frames and the covers. The two basic bottom boards are the
solid bottom board and the screened bottom board. Beekeepers typically use the
screened bottom board since a sticky board can be inserted to prevent varroa mites
and it aids in ventilation.14 The super is a large size hive box containing 10 frames,
which have a foundation that bees build wax onto. The inner cover goes on top of
the uppermost super, which has an entrance hole to the outside and a hole in the
middle that is vital for proper hive manipulation.15 The outer cover fits over the
inner cover to weatherproof the top of the hive.16 The hive may have multiple
supers, a queen excluder and a stand as well (See next page).
12 Norman Gary, “Beekeeping as a Hobby or Economic Sideline,” USDA, 1,
https://naldc.nal.usda.gov/naldc/download.xhtml?id=IND79001341&content=PDF
13 Ibid.
14 Deeley, Anita. "Parts of a Beehive: Beginner Beekeeper's Guide." Beverly Bees.
Accessed December 20, 2016. http://www.beverlybees.com/parts-beehive-
beginner-beekeeper/.
15 Ibid.
2011), 17.

Willette, p.8
Figure 1: Basic components of the Langstroth hive.
https://twomenandalittlefarm.blogspot.com/2015/04/parts -of-beehive-and-wax-foundation.html
With proper care, management, and harvesting, backyard beekeeping can
provide health, economic and environmental benefits.17 Benefits of becoming a
backyard beekeeper include making a step towards creating homegrown foodways,
increase in vegetable garden production, saving money on local honey, other by-
products such as beeswax and royal jelly, natural remedies for allegories, sheer
enjoyment and entertainment, and becoming apart of the “Save the bees”
movement.
17 Messner, Rachelle; Strange, James; and Brian, Roslynn, “Backyard Beekeeping”
ENVS Faculty Publications. (2014).
http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/Sustainability_2014_02pr.pd
f

Willette, p.9
Becoming a hobby beekeeper isn’t about making money but it can have some
economic benefits. Backyard beekeeping may provide some extra income since each
hive may yield around $200 worth of honey per year.18 Thus, there is potential to
save money on locally produced honey. The average jar of local honey can cost
anywhere from $12 to $18.19 There are costs of obtaining bees, acquiring the
essential equipment and the time that goes into maintaining the hive but selling
honey can reduce this cost since it will cost you less than $12 to $18 for a jar. Mark
Muldrow sells his honey at his local farmers market along with honey butter bars he
makes for around $2 each.20 In addition, backyard beekeepers can improve the
productivity of their gardens, producing more and larger fruits, flowers and
vegetables, which can also be sold. Bees produce beeswax, propolis, and royal jelly,
which can be used for making other products as well. For example, beeswax can be
used for lip balm, skin moisturizer, candles, cooking, and itch relief, which can save
money or be sold for profit.21
Hobby beekeeping provides numerous health benefits. To start, tending to
bees can be physically demanding in terms of lifting heavy frames and simply being
outdoors could also be seen as health benefit. Although there aren’t any scientific
ENVS Faculty Publications. (2014).
http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/Sustainability_2014_02pr.pd
f
19 Kiesha Easley, "5 Benefits of Beekeeping." Easily Grown Garden. Accessed
November 19, 2016. http://easilygrowngarden.com/benefits-of-
beekeeping/.
20 Mark Muldrow, interview. Chase Willette, Nov. 12, 2016
21 Edward Group, "8 Uses for Organic Beeswax." Dr. Group's Natural Health &
Organic Living Blog. October 09, 2015. Accessed December 20, 2016.
http://www.globalhealingcenter.com/natural-health/beeswax/.

Willette, p.10
studies to prove it, many beekeepers believe that tending to bees reduces stress as
well.22 Eating local, fresh honey and pollen provides many health benefits given its
antimicrobial, antiviral, antiparasitory, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant,
antimutagenic and antitumor effects.23 Bee pollen has been known to be a natural
remedy for allergies and other ailments.24 Pollen is 30% protein, including all amino
acids and also contains a full spectrum of vitamins, minerals and lipids.25 In
addition, honey is a useful source of high-carbohydrate food, and commonly
contains a rich diversity of minerals and vitamins, adding nutritional variety to
human diets.26
Hobby Beekeeping contributes to multiple environmental benefits too. Most
importantly it increases the amount of pollinators in your local area. One of the main
reasons Brad Sinn keeps bees is for this reason.27 Backyard beekeeping aids in
pollination of local fruits, vegetables, and berries, as well as native plants.28
Additionally, by becoming a backyard beekeeper, you are involved in food mile
reduction, which reduces the use of fossil fuels, emissions, packaging, landfill use
22 "Discovering the Benefits of Beekeeping." Dummies. Accessed December 20, 2016.
http://www.dummies.com/home-garden/hobby-farming/beekeeping/discovering-
the-benefits-of-beekeeping/.
23 Bogdanov, S., Jurendic, T., Sieber, R., & Gallmann, P. (2008). Honey for Nutrition
and Health: A Review. Journal of American College Nutrition, 27(6), 677-689.
24 Kiesha Easley, "5 Benefits of Beekeeping." Easily Grown Garden. Accessed
November 19, 2016. http://easilygrowngarden.com/benefits-of-beekeeping/.
25 Martin Hilmi, Nicola Bradbear and Danilo Mejia, “Beekeeping and Sustainable
Livelihoods.” FAO Diversification Booklet 1. 11-12. http://www.fao.org/3/a-
i2462e.pdf. (Accessed December 15, 2016).
26 Ibid.
27 Brad Sinn, interview. Chase Willette, Oct. 27, 2016.
ENVS Faculty Publications. (2014), 1.

Willette, p.11
and pollution.29 Therefore, countless benefits, many of which haven’t been listed
here, are attached to hobby beekeeping.
Honeybees can be kept nearly anywhere with the proper investment of
space, time and money. Fortunately, compared to other forms of animal husbandry,
honeybees require very little space. You can keep honeybees everywhere from
urban rooftops and quarter-acre backyard plots to vast, rural places.30
The start up cost of the hive, protective gear, equipment such as a smoker,
and the bees themselves, in addition to food, medications, resource materials and
vessels for holding honey can be discouraging. Luckily, there are some ways to
reduce the initial cost. Brad Sinn spent around $500 initially to purchase all the
essential equipment from Mann Lake, which is one of the largest bee supply
companies.31 Mark Muldrow also purchased his essentials through Mann Lake for
about the same cost of $500. 32Currently, purchasing a starter kit of that includes the
essential protective clothing, the essential tools, all of the components of one hive
and a few other pieces of equipment through Mann Lake cost $456.95. However, this
doesn’t include a package of bees, which could cost anywhere from $90 to $115.33
This puts the total anywhere from $546.95-$571.95 just for one hive, if you decide
to purchase this starter kit from Mann Lake.
29 Ibid.
30 30 English, Ashley. 2011. Homemade Living : Keeping Bees with Ashley English : All
You Need to Know to Tend Hives, Harvest Honey & More.Homemade living;
Homemade living. New York: Lark Crafts. 25.
32 Mark Muldrow, interview. Chase Willette, Nov. 12, 2016.
33 "Estimated Cost of Buying Bees." Apis Hive Company.
http://www.apishive.com/honey-bees-for-sale-2/estimated-cost-of-buying-bees.
(Accessed December 20, 2016).

Willette, p.12
Keep in mind there will be additional costs to replace bees the next year if
something goes wrong during the first year. Selling honey, wax, and pollen can help
off set the initial and annual cost but don’t count on that for your first year since you
will likely not be able to extract anything until the following year.34 It will take time
to recover the cost if you wish to do so. In addition, it is strongly recommended by
many beekeepers to start with at least two hives, if you have the money, so you can
compare differences between them.35 If you have at least two hives, you can also use
resources of a strong hive to assist a weak hive to increase the chances of success.36
Making the initial up front cost for two hives could easily pay for itself by reducing
the number of times you have to replace bees. Mark Muldrow spent 3 years
struggling with getting one hive through before he found success after moving up to
two and then three hives.37
Before you acquire your first hive you must first determine whether it is
permissible to keep bees where you live, select the proper location for sitting your
hives, assemble all of the necessary housing and equipment, and assess whether you
have the time and resources needed for keeping bees. Acquire knowledge on the
subject of beekeeping by reading books, seeking out bee organizations in your area,
and befriending or shadowing an experienced beekeeper.
34 "Estimated Cost of Buying Bees." Apis Hive Company.
http://www.apishive.com/honey-bees-for-sale-2/estimated-cost-of-buying-bees.
(Accessed December 20, 2016).
35 "Thinking About Keeping Bees? Part 1: Costs, Time and Intangibles." Kelley
Beekeeping. https://www.kelleybees.com/Blog/7/A-Bee-Cs/165/Thinking-About-
Keeping-Bees-Part-1-Costs-Time-and-Intangibles. (Accessed December 20, 2016).
36 Ibid.

Willette, p.13
Getting Started
Before you invest in beekeeping equipment and order bees it is crucial to
research the specific state and local regulations. Since July 1, 2006, the Minnesota
Department of Agriculture no longer requires the annual apiary registration and
fee.38 Therefore, whether or not bees are legal to keep on your property depends on
your cities codes. Check the codes in your city, which may be available through the
Department of Agriculture, local zoning board, town hall, bee club, or governing
body, to determine what is allowed.39 Bee ordinances vary significantly between
cities ranging anywhere from being outright banned to having to meet specific
requirements, and being fully permitted. Many cities in Minnesota still have no
mention of bees in ordinances, so honeybees are permitted as long as they are not
reported as a nuisance. The following will provide some examples of current bee
ordinances in Minnesota cities.
North Saint Paul doesn’t permit keeping bees in the city. Honeybees are
classified as a farm animal and no farm animals are allowed within city limits.40 This
seems to be common in larger cities. However, in Minneapolis bees can be kept on
one’s property if they get a permit from Minneapolis Animal Care and Control.41 In
addition, Minneapolis has recently approved a bee ordinance change that no longer
38 Blaine White, "Apiary Program Information." Minnesota Department of
Agriculture.
http://www.mda.state.mn.us/licensing/licensetypes/apiaryprogram.aspx.
(Accessed November 20, 2016).
39 English, Ashley. 2011. Homemade Living : Keeping Bees with Ashley English : All
Homemade living. New York: Lark Crafts. 40
40 Ashleigh Leitch, "Ordinances." Bee Lab. https://www.beelab.umn.edu/resources-
beekeepers/ordinances. (Accessed October 25, 2016).
41 Ibid.

Willette, p.14
requires written approval from neighbors to start hives on their property and are
free of restrictions on hives located on the second or higher story of a building.42
The new regulations only require beekeepers to notify neighbors annually now.43
Some cities have very specific requirements that must be met in order for
bees to be kept on someone’s property. For example, Centerville won’t issue a bee
license unless the following terms are complied with: the lot size is a minimum of
one-half acre; no more than two colonies; hives are setback a minimum of 25 feet
from the property line; the applicant must have at least 16 hours of training in
beekeeping documented; and the colony is not a nuisance to any member of the
public.44 On the other hand, some cities have no mention of bees in ordinances. Mark
Muldrow lives in a rural area of Spicer and there is no mention of bees in city
ordinances, so he is permitted to keep bees without any initial requirements.45 Brad
Sinn also doesn’t have any regulations to comply with since he lives in a township
near St. Stephen with no bee ordinance.46 Thus, someone’s ability to begin a hobby
beekeeping operation is significantly impacted by where they live in the state of
Minnesota. (To check the bee ordinance in your city go to
https://www.beelab.umn.edu/resources-beekeepers/ordinances.)
To get started you need to find out: where to find help and support, where to
purchase equipment, where is best to locate your hives, where and when to
42 Liz Sawyer, "Minneapolis Beekeepers Abuzz about Eased Restrictions." Star
Tribune. http://www.startribune.com/minneapolis-beekeepers-abuzz-about-eased-
restrictions/266138861/. (Accessed November 20, 2016).
43 Ibid.
44 Ashleigh Leitch, "Ordinances." Bee Lab. https://www.beelab.umn.edu/resources-
beekeepers/ordinances. (Accessed October 25, 2016).
45 Mark Muldorw, interview. Chase Willette, November 12, 2016.

Willette, p.15
purchase live bees. The best source of information is experienced beekeepers, so
speaking with local beekeepers can help you find out about various styles of
beehives and management procedures.47 Mark Muldrow recommended getting a
mentor when first starting out to help with setting up and becoming familiar with
managing the hive.48 It is important to conduct research prior to purchasing your
first hive but having an experienced beekeeper around will teach you things you
can’t learn from a book.49
In addition, look for bee-related events through local beekeeping
publications and associations, and blogs and forums online to find out where to get
bees.50 Speaking with hobby beekeeper, Brad Sinn, the best tip one could give a
beginner beekeeper getting their first hive is to join a beekeeping association the
winter before getting the hive.51 It is important to learn as much as you can before
getting a hive and local beekeepers will have the most knowledge about keeping
bees alive in your area. There isn’t “one way” to do anything, so getting a wide range
of practices used by other beekeepers will help you figure out what works best for
you.52 Brad Sinn stated, “ The old guys say if you ask four beekeepers how to do
something you’ll get five answers.”53 Beekeeping is about being knowledgeable,
paying close attention, and being a problem solver.
47 Tew, James E. The Beekeeper's Problem Solver. Beverly, MA: Quarry Books. (2015),
12.
50 Tew, James E. The Beekeeper's Problem Solver. Beverly, MA: Quarry Books. (2015),
16.
52 Ibid.
53 Ibid.

Willette, p.16
Careful thought is needed when choosing the location for your hive. Once the
hive is placed, it should remain there for the season since moving it later will cause
difficulties for the bees’ ability to navigate back to the hive.54 Research has shown
that bees navigate using the sun and recognizable landmarks to guide themselves
back to the hive.55 Explain your project to your neighbors and get approval before
hand as well. The last thing you want is a conflict between you and your neighbors,
which could potentially result the loss of your hive. Offering a jar of honey at the end
of the season is a common way of helping secure their consent.
When deciding where to place your hive there are several crucial variables
that should factor into your location decision, including sun exposure, windbreak
availability, water source, flight path, weed suppression, accessibility, and moisture
prevention.56 It is ideal to place your hive somewhere that will allow southeast sun
exposure to provide morning sunshine to stimulate foraging bees to rise and get
busy gathering nectar.57 In addition, setting your hive in this direction warms the
hive in cooler months while shielding it from the hottest midday rays of summer.58
It is important that the hive isn’t in the direct sun but too much shade can create
moisture problems. The hive’s near-constant internal temperature causes water
vapor to condense, forming drops of water on the interior ceiling, which then drip
2011), 32.
55 Ibid.
56 English, Ashley. 2011. Homemade Living : Keeping Bees with Ashley English : All
Homemade living. New York: Lark Crafts. 40
57 Ibid.
58 Ibid.

Willette, p.17
down onto the bees potentially killing them.59 By avoiding areas that are continually
shady, have constantly wet ground, or near overhead water sources like gutters or
downspouts the bees are less likely to be harmed in this way.
Next be sure there is a windbreak of some form at the rear of the hive to
protect it from heavy winds.60 It is also necessary to provide a water source for your
bees to ensure their survival as well as preventing bees from retrieving water from
an unwelcomed location that could disturb neighbors. Providing a barrier at least
six feet tall will also help avoid issues with neighbors by encouraging the bees to fly
up and away anything in the immediate vicinity.61 Be sure to keep the area in front
of and on the sides of the hives free from weeds and grass to prevent unwanted
critters from being able to infiltrate the hive and provide them with a free flight
path. Lastly, site the hive where it can be accessed with ease to minimize difficulties
of harvesting the honey. After speaking with Mark Muldrow it became apparent that
it might take a few years to find the best place to keep the hive. For the first four or
five years he experimented with different places for the hive in an effort to get his
bees through winter.
59English, Ashley. 2011. Homemade Living : Keeping Bees with Ashley English : All You
Need to Know to Tend Hives, Harvest Honey & More.Homemade living; Homemade
living. New York: Lark Crafts. 40
60 Rant, Backyard Beekeeping and Honey Production, 32
61 Ibid.

Willette, p.18
Figure 1: Demonstrates ideal placement for hives to avoid issues. http://www.dummies.com/home-
garden/hobby-farming/beekeeping/pick-the-perfect-location-for-your-beehive/
In order to safely and successfully care for your bees protective and practical
gear is necessary. One of the most essential tools is the smoker (Fig. 2). The smoker
is used to disorient the bees to allow you to access
the hive. It is a metal fire pot and grate with a raised
spout and a bellows attached to one side. Kindling
and fuel are placed into the canister and then lit. The
bellows are pumped vigorously and the fire inside
should burn until it smolders and produces a cool,
white smoke.62 Fuel choices include burlap, pine
62 English, Homemade Living, 51.
Figure 2: Smoker tool.
http://www.beekeeping-tools.com/kit/kit-
tools.html

Willette, p.19
needles, cardboard, bailing twine, dry leaves, bark, and wood chips.63 Be sure to give
the smoker about five to ten minutes of continuous cool smoking before
approaching the hives.64 It is very important your smoker is adequately fueled, it
should be capable of producing smoke for up to 30 minutes.
The next essential piece of beekeeping equipment
is the suit and veil (Fig. 3). Wearing protective clothing
will help manage fear and prevent you from being
stung.65 Tuck in your clothes into your boots, waist and
gloves to fully block bees from gaining access.66 It is key
that your protective clothing is light colored. Generations
of interactions with dark-furred creatures such as bears
and raccoons have created for honeybees a dislike to
darkly colored moving things.67 Your protective gear
will also need to cover your hands. Long gloves made of
leather or canvas will keep beginners from worrying
about bee stings while trying to get acquainted with working with the hive.68
63 "Beekeeping Equipment." Mid Atlantic Apiculture Research & Extension
Consortium. January 07, 2014. https://agdev.anr.udel.edu/maarec/beginning-
beekeeping-2/beekeeping-equipment/. (Accessed December 20, 2016).
65 Rant, Backyard Beekeeping and Honey Production, 29.
Figure 3: Full suit, veil, and gloves outfit.
http://www.worldofbeekeeping.com/but-
youll-lose-an-eye-on-going-without-a-
beekeeping-veil-and-suit/

Willette, p.20
The last key piece of equipment is the hive tool (Fig. 4).
This thin, metal tool is used to help pry open hives and frames
that are sealed up by propolis.69 The broad and flat end wedges
between all bits of woodenware, permitting you to gently force
apart the pieces that have become stuck together.70 The hive
tool is also helpful for scraping away wax comb the bees may
have built anywhere on the frames.71 In addition, the other end
of the hive tool curves upward, enabling the beekeeper to pull up the frames.
While the pieces of gear and equipment mentioned previously are essential
to keeping bees safely and properly, the following items aren’t crucial but are
helpful. The first piece of helpful equipment is the bee brush. This long handled and
soft-bristled brush is useful for gently removing the honeybees from clothing and
frames.72 Next is a wooden frame covered with perforated metals or plastics called
the queen excluder. The slats in the queen excluder are small enough to allow
worker bees to move through with ease while prohibiting the larger queen from
entering.73 It is placed between the hive body and the supers above it to confine the
queen to the lower portion of the hive so that brood and pollen are
compartmentalized separately from honey.74
69 Ibid.
71Rant, Backyard Beekeeping and Honey Production, 28.
Figure 4: Twopopular hive tools.
http://www.beckysbeesonlinesh
op.co.uk/hive-tool-893-p.asp

Willette, p.21
The following pieces of equipment are helpful for handling the frames of the
hive. When a frame is filled up with honey, brood, propolis, pollen, and wax, it gets
heavy. Thus, the frame holder is useful for preventing you from dropping the frame
and losing everything on it. Two metal clamps grip onto the side of the super, with
long arms extending out from the side for you to place the frame on.75 The second
piece of equipment is the frame grip, which allows you to easily extract a frame from
the hive with one hand. It has grippers on each side of the spring-hinged handle to
grab hold of the frame firmly and securely so you can examine the frame.76
The last tool that is highly recommended is a notebook to track the progress
of your hives. Every visit, make notes about what you did, what you saw, and any
impressions you have of the hive’s health. Keeping a dated log of your action can
prove to be tremendously helpful if problems arise.77
After all of this research, planning, and equipment gathering the next step is
obtaining your bees. First, you will need to decide what species of honeybee to
acquire. Different honeybee species possess different traits and characteristics. They
vary in terms of hardiness, aggression, resistance to pests and diseases, and their
tendency for robbing. Robbing is when a stronger hive invades a weaker hive to
steal honey.78 The following species are some of the most popular and common
races kept by beekeepers that will be readily available.
The Carniolan bee is a very popular bee for a good reason. Advantages of
Carniolans include an exceptionally gentle temperament, good management of
75 Ibid, 55.
76 Ibid.
77 Ibid.
78 English, Homemade living, 30.

Willette, p.22
winter food stores, rapid build-up of brood in the spring, small robbing tendency,
and a general likelihood toward surviving winter conditions.79 In addition, they are
reputed to be able to defend themselves against some insect pests and they have a
better ability than some to respond quickly to rises in availability of nectar and to
reduce in numbers when honey flow ceases.80 Their friendly nature makes them
very suitable for populated areas and first time beekeepers. Plus, their capability to
endure winters makes them a great choice for Minnesota urban and rural
environments. Their only downside is they have a greater tendency to swarm and
are less tolerant of high summer temperatures.
The Italian bee is another very popular honeybee species kept in North
America. These bees have a relative lack of aggression and produce large amounts of
brood and honey. Other advantages include the buildup of large winter colonies and
low swarming tendency.81 Disadvantages include a notorious robbing tendency,
susceptibility to certain pests and diseases, and their large winter colonies often eat
through their food stores too soon.82 Although these bees are able to produce
greater amounts of honey and brood, they will likely struggle with Minnesota’s long
harsh winters.
The Caucasian bee shares many traits of the Carniolan. They are easy to
handle, overwinter well, and have a very long tongue enabling them to take
advantage of a wide range flowers. Unfortunately, they have a very undesirable trait
of using excessive amounts of propolis and renowned as messy bees, making
79 Ibid.
82 English, Homemade living, 30.

Willette, p.23
manipulation more difficult.83 Additionally, they are known to be susceptible to
diseases such as nosema.
The Russian bee, as its origin suggests, is very good at tolerating harsh
winters. These bees are commonly valued for their resistance to varroa and tracheal
mites. Russians resemble Carniolans in a number of ways as well, including slowing
down the buildup of brood and food consumption when nectar supplies are low.
They are also comparable to Italians in a heavy production of brood and honey
when nectar and pollen are readily available. The hardiness of these bees makes
them a great choice for Minnesota but its disadvantages are uncertain.
The Buckfast bee is a hybrid that was made by carefully crossbreeding
several races. A monk in response to a disease outbreak created this bee to be
resistant to the disease. Not only is this type of bee resistant to diseases but also it is
highly productive and resistant to tracheal mites while overwintering well.84 On the
downside, they can become very difficult to handle and can be the most fiercely
defensive of all stocks. They are also slow to build up stocks in the spring so they
tend not to take advantage of early nectar.85 Buckfast bee colonies need to be
requeened annually as well. Thus, this bee may not be the best choice for a first time
beekeeper especially if you are looking to pollinate early spring crops.
When obtaining bees a novice beekeeper should consider purchasing the
Carniolan, Italian or Russian honeybees in Minnesota but before your purchase talk
with local beekeepers first about what kind of bees they have. Brad Sinn tried Italian

Willette, p.24
bees for the first year but they weren’t hardy enough to make it through the winter
in his case.86 He prefers Carniolans and Russians. Both the Carniolan and Russian
are more likely to survive the tough conditions of a Minnesota winter than the
others mentioned above. In addition, they are both excellent at managing their
brood, having rapid buildup in the spring and the ability to slow down the buildup
of brood when nectar supplies are low.
However, Mark Muldrow tried all three of these bees as well and prefers
Italian bees because they are docile and have excellent honey production.87 Going
into the first year of beekeeping it could be beneficial to have a more docile bee to
avoid issues with aggression. After speaking with these two beekeepers, it is clear
that what works for someone else may not work best for you. Their responses
suggest that a beginner beekeeper in Minnesota should experiment with these three
bee species to figure out what works best for them.
New bee colonies should be started during the warm season of the year. The
best time of year to get honeybees is late spring, before it becomes too hot to safely
ship them.88 During the colder months is a good time to make your search for a
supplier and put in your order. Waiting to long could affect your success since most
suppliers operate on a “first come, first served” ordering basis.89 It is also very
important that when the bees arrive you’ve got their housing prepared to receive
them.
89 Ibid.

Willette, p.25
There are a few of ways of obtaining bees to consider. First are packaged
bees, which many inexperienced beekeepers opt for. Acquiring bees in this manner
allows the novice to see the process of beekeeping from inception on through care,
maintenance, extraction, and beyond.90 Package bees are also small in number
(about 10,000) compared to the amount of bees present in a full hive (around
50,000 to 60,000).91 Therefore, package bees permit the beekeeper to get a feel for
how it all works before advancing on to caring for the needs of an active, developed
hive. In addition, in comparison to the nuc option (explained next), package bees
cost $50-$100 less and can be acquired earlier in the spring.92 However, a package
of bees has its disadvantages as well including: the beekeeper must feed them,
greater difficulty to install, a chance they don’t accept the hive they are placed in,
and the bees have to start from scratch (no brood, comb or food).93
The second means of obtaining bees is a nucleus of bees, referred to as a
“nuc.” Nucs are a miniature version of a hive, comprised of a box containing 3 to 5
frames of bees in all stages of development.94 These frames will contain brood, baby
bees, worker bees, food and a laying queen, so all you need to get started is to
90 Ibid.
91Ibid, 58.
92 Gene Rene, "Packages or Nucs: Which Is a Better Start?" Keeping Backyard Bees.
February 19, 2015. http://www.keepingbackyardbees.com/packages-nucs-better-
start/. (Accessed December 19, 2016).

Willette, p.26
remove the frames from their transporting box and insert them in a super.95 One
advantage of a nuc over a package is that the population of the colony will grow
much more rapidly, as the queen’s laying schedule will not be interrupted.96 The
entire hive will be further along in colony development. Bees in packages need time
to draw out comb on foundation and will need up to three weeks before new bees
are born.97 Nucs are easier to install and contain more materials than packages but
they will also cost more. Luckily, this extra expensive can usually be made up
quickly. With favorable weather conditions and consistent nectar flows, nuc colonies
have the potential of becoming a full scale colony in just a few months and have
enough surplus honey available for extraction the first year you keep them.98
The disadvantage to purchasing nucs is the potential for disease since they
don’t have to undergo inspection or certification before being sold.99 Although,
someone can avoid this risk by purchasing nucs from a reputable supplier. Ask
beekeepers in your community for recommendations, plus local and state level
organizations will be able to give you supplier evaluations as well.100 The other
97 Ibid, 62.
100 Ibid.

Willette, p.27
disadvantage of nucs is there is a limited supply, especially in northern areas.101
Therefore, getting in contact with a supplier as early as possible is key.
The third means of acquiring bees is through swarm collection. Swarming is
a natural method used honeybees to reproduce.102 When a hive swarms, it leaves
with the existing queen and about half of the colony to find a new home.103 The
swarm flies around eventually settling on a surface to rest while scout bees seek out
a suitable new home and it is during this pause that the swarm can be secured.104
Swarms can be a thrifty means of increasing or establishing your hive since a swarm
of bees around 25,000 bees, including the queen while a package only contains
around 10,000 (and they’re free).105 Although capturing a swarm isn’t necessarily
difficult it isn’t really a job for a novice beekeeper. Thus, it is wise to have an
experienced beekeeper to assist you if you choose to acquire your bees in this way.
The final option for obtaining bees is to purchase a fully established colony.
Setup involves acquiring a full hive of bees, the supers, frames and bees, from a local
beekeeper. This can be an easier way of establishing a beekeeping operation but can
be overwhelming for a beginner beekeeper. Suddenly having a thriving mass of
50,000 bees, possibly needing food, additional supers and skilled care will likely be
101 Mike Nida, "Bjorn Apiaries Package vs. Nuc." Bjorn Apiaries.
http://www.bjornapiaries.com/packagevsnuc.html. (Accessed December 19, 2016).
102 "How to Catch a Swarm and Install It in a Beehive." Bee Thinking.
https://www.beethinking.com/pages/how-to-catch-a-swarm. (Accessed
December 19, 2016).
104 "How to Catch a Swarm and Install It in a Beehive." Bee Thinking.
https://www.beethinking.com/pages/how-to-catch-a-swarm. (Accessed December
19, 2016).

Willette, p.28
overwhelming for a novice.106 In addition, you will lose out on some of the subtleties
witnessed when first starting out with new woodenware, including viewing the
comb formation, the creation and capping of brood and honey, and introducing a
queen.107 Plus, full hives could potentially harbor diseases and pests. Thus, this is
likely no the best option for first-time beekeepers.
A first-time beekeeper should go with package bees unless beekeepers in
your community recommend a nuc supplier nearby for a couple of reasons. First, it
is very valuable for a novice to witness the entire process of beekeeping with new
woodenware. Observing and learning how the bees develop into a full hive will give
you an idea of how a healthy hive functions and give you time to become familiar
with care and maintenance. One of the biggest take home points from my interview
with Brad Sinn was paying attention is key. Thus, witnessing the development
process into a full size hive will better prepare you for evaluating the hives progress
the following spring. By the time your hive has reached its full size you will already
have some knowledge and experience on how to properly care for your hive without
being overwhelmed in the process.108 In addition, if you are on a tight budget this is
likely going to be your cheapest option unless you have an experienced beekeeping
friend willing to help you capture a swarm.
If you have decided to obtain your bees by package you’ll need the following
items to successfully install them into an empty hive: a package of bees, hive body
with frames, protective veil and suit, gloves, spray bottle of 1:1 sugar-water
107 Ibid.

Willette, p.29
solution, hive tool, a sewing needle, toothpick, or small nail, and an entrance feeder,
hive-top feeder or pail feeder.109 The first step after putting on your protective gear
is removing 3-4 frames from the empty hive and then push the remaining frames all
to one side and the empty space created will house the bees once you dump them
from the package.110
Second, mist the package of bees with the sugar-water solution and be
careful to don’t overdo it, which could cause the bees harm. This step not only wets
the bees’ wings, hindering flight but also compels them to clean and groom the
syrup off each other, giving them something to occupy their time and energy.111
Third, hold the package with both hands shake it down firmly against the
ground or the top of the hive to cause the bees to fall to the bottom of the
package.112 Then, use your hive tool to pry open the wooden lid and set it aside
somewhere close by. Inside you’ll see a metal feeder jar with a strip of metal
attached to its side. Use the edge of the hive tool to pry up a corner of the feed
canister and begin to remove it but be sure to have a hold on the attached strip of
metal since is connected to the queen cage.113 Remove both the cage and the feeding
canister at the same time. Then, temporarily replace the wooden lid over the top of
the box.
110 Anna Deeley, “How To Install Package Bees in a Langstroth Hive." Beverly Bees.
Accessed December 19, 2016. http://www.beverlybees.com/install-package-bees-
langstroth-hive/.
langstroth-hive/.
113 Ibid.

Willette, p.30
Next, shake or brush any bees off of the queen cage into the hive and examine
it to make sure your queen is alive and healthy.114 If not, call the supplier right away
and request a replacement. The queen cage consists of three circular sections cut
out of a wooden block and covered on two sides with mesh screen. Two sections are
for the queen to move around in and the third section contains a sugar paste
(known as the “candy plug”).115 There are corks on each of the shorter sides of the
cage. Remove the cork from the candy end only using a sewing needle, toothpick,
pocketknife or small nail to puncture the candy plug carefully.116 The worker bees
will use that puncture hole to begin chewing through to the queen over the next day
or so, which gives them time to get accustomed to her scent and accept her.117
Once the puncture hole is made place the queen cage in between the two
center frames with the candy end facing toward the sky, using the metal strip to
form a hook over one of the frames.118 Then, give the package of bees another light
spray of sugar water and once again firmly shake the package against the ground.
Remove the lid and gently shake a cluster of bees over the queen cage; these bees
will release the nasonov pheromone to tell the other bees the queen is here.119
Shake the remaining bees into the area where the frames were removed. Place the
package on the ground beside the bottom board. The remaining bees will leave the
114 Ibid.
langstroth-hive/.
langstroth-hive/.

Willette, p.31
package over the next 24 hours and fly into the hive.120 Next, replace the frames
slowly being careful not to squish any bees in the process.
After that, it’s time to install the feeding apparatus and replace the inner
cover. Then, put the outer cover on and leave the bees to settle into their new space
for about a week.121 When you return, make sure the queen has been released from
her cage. If so, remove the cage and keep the feeder full until an active nectar flow is
occurring.122 If the queen wasn’t released remove the cage from the hive, take the
cork on the opposite side out, cover it with a finger and push the candy end of the
cage into the front entrance of the hive.123 By doing this she can only move out into
the hive instead of moving toward you and flying into the air. Also, look for bees
carrying out dead bees since this is one of the first indicators that the colony is doing
well.124
Now that you have acquired your bees and situated them into their new
home, it’s time to learn how to properly care for them. There are a number of dos
and don’t to keep in mind when it comes to visiting your hives. Knowing when it’s a
good time to visit your hives and when it’s not are essential in being a good
caretaker for your bees. Brad Sinn has been successful with more of a leave-them-
langstroth-hive/.
122 Ibid.
langstroth-hive/.

Willette, p.32
alone approach unless something seems to be wrong.125 Unnecessary visits to the
hive create more work for the bees to seal the hive back up and take away time that
could be spent foraging and producing honey.126
It is crucial that you don’t visit the hive on rainy, windy or cold days, choose a
warm sunny day to avoid harming your bees.127 It is best to visit your hives
sometime between the hours of 10 A.M. to 6 P.M. since a large proportion of the
colony will be out foraging.128 You only have to check the hives once every one-two
weeks in early spring and mid to late autumn and when you check move gently and
quietly to avoid putting the hive on alert.129 Keep in mind that the bees do not
appreciate body odors like heavy sweat, perfumes and colognes.130 Lastly, don’t
inspect the hive excessively or unnecessarily, the bees will be fine with a short visit
but lingering could cause them to act more aggressively.
In order to perform seasonal inspections and attend your hives properly, you
must know exactly what you are looking for each time you open the hive.131
Inspections should only last 30 minutes to an hour and be conducted once a week
during the spring and summer.132 Again, bees don’t benefit from prolonged visits, so
being prepped on what to look for will benefit you both. Thus, these step-by-step
instructions for how to open the hive, remove a frame, what to look for on those
125 Brad Sinn, interview. Chase Willette, Oct. 27,2016.
126 Flottum, Kim, Better Beekeeping : The Ultimate Guide to Keeping Stronger Colonies
and Healthier, More Productive Bees.Beverly, Mass.: Quarry Books (2011), 45.
129 Ibid.
132 Mark Muldrow interview

Willette, p.33
frames, and how to replace the frames and put the hive together are critical to your
success as a beekeeper.
The first step to opening the hive is to put on your protective gear and ignite
your smoker, be sure it is well-lit and producing cool smoke.133 Approach the hive
from the side or the rear, never from the front to avoid interfering with the bees’
flight path.134 Stand to the side of the hive’s entrance and gently direct two or three
long, full puffs of smoke at it. Wait a few minutes for the smoke to take effect and
then lift one corner of the outer cover, and direct a few more puffs of smoke
inside.135 After waiting another minute, remove the hive’s outer cover and place it
on the ground upside down.
Next, remove the inner cover by using your hive tool to gently wedge it
underneath each corner and the super below.136 After prying off each corner, lift up
the inner cover and look to see if the queen is there, be careful not to let her hit the
ground. If you see her, gently brush her down into the super but if no queen is
present use two hands to remove the inner cover.137 Place it diagonally toward the
entrance, so the bees still hanging onto it can get back inside.138 Now that the hive is
open, perhaps add another puff of smoke to the exposed frames but be careful not to
134 Ibid.
137 Ibid.
138 Ibid.

Willette, p.34
overdue it.139 Then it is time to start removing the frames and determine what’s
going on inside the hive.
When removing the frames always work in a chronological order from one
end to the other because the bees arrange things very specifically on the frames and
you need to be mindful of that.140 Then, using the curved end of your hive tool,
gently wedge it between the first and second frames.141 Move the hive tool slowly
from side to side to loosen the frames from each other and do the same thing on the
opposite sides end of the same two frames.142 Next using both hands and making
sure you have a firm grip with no bees under your fingers, lift the frame up and out
of the super.143 Gently rest the frame vertically on the ground beside the hive.144
There appears to be a common theme of doing everything possible to prevent
harming or aggravating the bees throughout the process.
You’ve now created an open area, which will allow you to access and inspect
the remaining frames with greater ease. Remove the second frame and with the sun
behind you, turn it vertically and examine the frame on both sides.145 Once you’ve
examined it place it vertically beside the first frame and repeat the process for the
rest of the frames. You will most likely need to use your smoker midway through
141 Howland Blackiston, "How to Perform a Basic Beehive Inspection." Dummies.
http://www.dummies.com/home-garden/hobby-farming/beekeeping/how-to-
perform-a-basic-beehive-inspection/. (Accessed December 19, 2016).
142 Ibid.
145 Ibid.

Willette, p.35
your inspection, so remember to keep it close and well lit. Ideally, the entire
inspection should take no more than 10 to 15 minutes total.146
So, what exactly is it that you will be looking for? Essentially, all inspections
are to determine the health and productivity of the colony.147 It is crucial to look for
signs of a healthy queen during every inspection. Look for eggs, their presence
means the queen is alive or at the very least that she was there as recently as two
days ago.148 Ideally you want to find eggs every time you inspect at all the various
stages of physical development. In addition it is important to examine the pattern of
the brood during inspection.
The pattern that the capped brood appears can tell us if there might be a
problem. It should be in a “rainbow pattern,” meaning that the middle of the frame
should hold capped and uncapped brood, with each cell filled, followed above it by
pollen, royal jelly, and both capped and uncapped honey.149This indicates the queen
is healthy. If the brood pattern is spotty, spread out, and missing in a lot of holes,
than your queen may be old or sick and need to be replaced.150
During spring and summer inspections, you’ll also be looking on the frames
for indications of the presence of queen cells. These will show up either as swarm or
supersedure cells and look a lot like peanuts. Swarm cells, usually visible on the
149 Ibid.

Willette, p.36
bottom bar of frames or in odd corners, indicate that the hive is too crowded inside
in order to function properly and action should be taken.151 Supersedure cells,
usually found on the upper portion of a frame, indicate that the colony has decided
for some reason (old age, disease, or injury), that their queen needs to be
replaced.152
After inspection, it is time to replace the frames in the order you took them
out. Make sure they are facing the same direction that they were when you first
removed them. In addition, instead of pushing each frame back into place
individually, push the frames together as a single unit to reduce the chance of
squishing and killing any bees.153 Return the first frame last and make sure all the
frames are placed both equidistant from each other and from the outer walls of the
super on both ends. This is very important because if they are unequally distanced
apart, the bees will fill it up with burr comb, making it harder for you to access the
interior of the hive during your next inspection.154
Once all the frames are replaced it’s time to completely close up the hive.
Slide the inner cover on moving slowly from the rear to the front to allow for any
bees to move out of the way. Then, grab the outer cover and gently slide it into
position over the inner cover to finish closing the hive.
Challenges
There is a wide range of challenges you could face the first year of managing
your hive. The first challenge you are destined to face is the changing of the seasons.
153 Ibid, 72.

Willette, p.37
As the seasons change so do the needs of your bees. Thus, I will begin be addressing
what care your hive needs during different times of the year to ensure the success of
your hive.
Spring in Minnesota has extreme weather variations, fluctuating between
warm and cold weather. In the same week it is possible for you to experience a
string of sunny days followed by a burst of snow. Unfortunately, this occurs during
the hives most vulnerable stage, making your job as the hive’s steward crucial in
their survival. The warm periods and longer days prompt the queen to begin laying
eggs again, but if brood production occurs quickly, the colony may eat through its
food stores before new nectar sources are available or consistent in supply.155
Therefore, during the spring months your job is to watch for starvation, swarming
and external threats like robbing and predation.
During the summer you will have little work compared to the other seasons,
unless a drought or heavy rains hinder the bees access to nectar.156 Therefore, pay
attention to weather forecasts in your area to adequately prepare. During this time
colony numbers will be at their peak and nectar flows will be abundant. Inspect the
hive every week, monitoring for issues with the queens activities, honey production
and the presence of any swarm cells as well as eggs, larva and other indications of
active laying.157 Also inspect for varroa mites during this time because they damage
bees ability to develop and introduce viruses to the hive that could lead to its demise
156 Ibid, 80.
157 Ibid.

Willette, p.38
(See challenges section for more).158 The beekeeper’s main task in the warmest
months that may present you with a challenge is extraction. Make plans for
extraction, perhaps get a mentor for the first time and be sure to leave adequate
stores for the bees to get through the winter.159
When autumn arrives nectar flows and pollen sources begin to dry up while
the bees prepare the hive for winter by sealing up all the nooks and crannies.160 The
preparations you make now will largely impact the whether your hive survives the
winter. Supplemental feeding should begin in early autumn, so the bees have
enough time to convert your provided food to honey before the weather becomes
too cold.161 Brad Sinn stated, “Once fall arrives start feeding them sugar water after
you take their honey.”162 Leaving them plenty of their own honey is also crucial in
addition to providing them with sugar water to ensure their survival through
winter.
Before winter strikes most people cover up their hives. Talk with other
beekeepers to find out ways to successfully shield your hive. Brad Sinn said, “We use
a wax coated box setup that you seal all up and put over the hive that eliminates
wind chill and warms up on sunny winter days.”163 Properly sealing the cover and
having it colored black will increase their chances for survival but it may not be
enough. As mentioned earlier, good windbreaks near the hive are essential, such as
161 Ibid.
163 Ibid.

Willette, p.39
trees, fences and buildings.164 Mark Muldrow spent about five years coming up with
a reliable solution. He conducted temperature studies inside the hive and began
trying different places, bees and covering methods. After talking with others and
analyzing the results of his study he made his own solution. He took the super
screen bottom wrapped it in Styrofoam and then packed it with saw dust to prevent
cold air from entering and warm air from escaping.165 Making it through winter in
Minnesota is easily the biggest challenge faced by beginner beekeepers and even the
pros.166
In the winter, there won’t be much work for you but late winter and early
spring are when the bees are at their most vulnerable.167 The preparations you
made during autumn will really come into play at this point. Look to see if your hive
meets these characteristics. Lorenzo Langstroth stated, “If the colonies are strong in
numbers and stores, have upward ventilation, easy communication from comb to
comb, and water when needed, and the hive entrances are sheltered from piercing
winds, they have all the conditions essential for wintering successfully.”168 Thus,
make sure they have plenty of food and proper ventilation to ensure their survival.
Diseases and pests can also be a challenge of maintaining a healthy hive and
it is the beekeeper’s responsibility to take action if they occur. The key to effective
164 Kim Flottum, Better Beekeeping : The Ultimate Guide to Keeping Stronger Colonies
and Healthier, More Productive Bees.Beverly, Mass.: Quarry Books (2011),
153.
166 Brad Sinn interview
and Healthier, More Productive Bees.Beverly, Mass.: Quarry Books (2011),
143.

Willette, p.40
disease and pest control is recognizing the signs early and knowing how to deal with
them.169 This largely comes with experience but it is important to have the
knowledge of signs and how to deal with common problems from the start. Thus,
the following section will provide a brief summary of some of the most common and
most destructive diseases and pests faced by beekeepers.
One of the most interesting problems beekeepers have been facing in recent
years is Colony Collapse Disorder. Colony Collapse Disorder is the phenomenon that
occurs when majority of worker bees in a colony disappear and oddly leave behind a
queen, brood and plenty of food.170 The issue became apparent during the winter of
2006-2007, when beekeepers began reporting unusually high losses ranging from
30-90 percent of their hives.171 Previously healthy hives were, within a matter of
weeks, suddenly empty. There were no signs of masses of dead bees outside the hive
and the remaining bees showed no signs of an identifiable ailment or infection.172
Research has been unable to determine a single cause, leaving only theories as to
why this is happening.
One theory researchers have come up with is bees are accumulating
chemicals from insecticides and fungicides used for agriculture, which is making
them more vulnerable to disease and viruses.173 Another theory is the accumulation
of pesticides is damaging the bee’s ability to navigate back to the hive after foraging.
This then results in more bees being sent out to maintain the hive, which are also
169 James Tew, The Beekeeper’s Problem Solver, 131.
170 "Colony Collapse Disorder." EPA. (Accessed December 18, 2016).
https://www.epa.gov/pollinator-protection/colony-collapse-disorder.
171 Ibid.

Willette, p.41
lost causing the hive to fail in such a quick manner.174 No consensus currently exists
and no definitive causes have been determined but other potential causes or
contributors include; environmental change-related stresses, malnutrition, cell
phone radiation, genetically modified crops and neonicotinoids.175
An important pest to look out for when inspecting your hive is the Varroa
mite. This external parasite affects both the brood and adult bees in the hive. They
are a small red mite that looks similar to a small spider or crab that can be seen with
the naked eye. These parasites hinder the brood’s ability to fully develop resulting in
stunted growth and distorted wings of the bees.176 If left untreated, they can quickly
build to a population level capable of killing the entire colony.177 Marla Spivak, a bee
expert at the University of Minnesota, warns novice beekeepers that avoid mite
treatments are putting their hives and other hives for miles around in danger by not
keeping the bee mite population in check.178 Untreated hives can spread mites and
viruses to other hives within several miles since healthy bees will invade a dying
hive to steal honey and then carry the mites with them back to their hives.179
Luckily, the threat of mites is something that can be controlled, therefore treatment
efforts should be sought after to minimize the challenges bees face.
174 Ibid.
177 James Tew, The Beekeeper’s Problem Solver, 136.
178 Dan Gunderson, "The Colony-Killing Mistake Backyard Beekeepers Are Making."
NPR. http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/08/12/489622982/the-
colony-killing-mistake-backyard-beekeepers-are-making. (accessed
December 18, 2016).
179 Dan Gunderson, "The Colony-Killing Mistake Backyard Beekeepers Are Making."
December 18, 2016).

Willette, p.42
American foulbrood disease is a destructive brood disease that is feared and
respected by most beekeepers. It is caused by the bacterium, a Paenibacillus larva,
which produces tough spores that are nearly impossible to destroy and can remain
viable for many decades.180 The effects of this disease can kill the entire hive but it is
easily noticeable. The brood combs smell foul, the cells are sunken and distorted, the
larvae become almost like a sticky mess in the cell and the whole comb takes on a
dark and sunken appearance.181 American foulbrood is introduced to the hive by
drifting bees from nearby colonies, infected equipment/tools, beekeepers and
robbing.182 Thus, it is crucial that beekeepers act quickly to treat this disease to
prevent the failure of their hive and putting other hives at risk. If the disease has
already spread over more than a few cells the colony has a poor chance of recovery
and the best option is to destroy the hive to prevent other hives in the area from
being lost as well.183
How to overcome challenges
Winter is by far the greatest challenge faced by beekeepers in Minnesota.184
Speaking with local beekeepers and attending beekeeping association meetings in
the area will be the best source of finding new methods to cope with winter.185 No
method is guaranteed to work for your hive and it might take a few years of trial and
180 Tew, The Beekeeper’s Problem Solver, 146.
182 Rob Snyder, "What Is That Smell?…American Foulbrood!" Bee Informed
Partnership. (Accessed December 18, 2016).
https://beeinformed.org/2011/05/26/whats-that-smell-american-
foulbrood/.
183 Tew, The Beekeeper’s Problem Solver, 146.
184 Brad Sinn and Mark Muldrow interview.
185 Ibid.

Willette, p.43
error to find what works specifically for your hive. However, making sure they have
plenty of food, covering the hive and providing proper ventilation ensures their
greatest chance for survival.186 Trying different locations for the hive and different
kinds of bees is one possible method to solve the issue but it may not be enough.
Conducting a temperature study inside the hive is an excellent way to test out the
effectiveness of different wintering methods.187 After interviewing local beekeepers
it is clear that making your bees survive winter will take careful planning and
problem solving skills.
Maintaining a healthy hive can also be a difficult challenge for first-time
beekeepers. In most aspects of beekeeping the techniques and management systems
vary.188There isn’t just one specific way to do anything when it comes to beekeeping
but sticking to basics will help your hive be successful.189 Bees are very adaptable
and if you adequately address any issues of bee health, queen quality, and food
availability, the colony will most likely succeed regardless of the management
procedure used.190 Thus, becoming informed on indicators and potential causes of
issues with these three aspects and paying close attention for them during
inspection is key for a novice beekeeper success. Joining a beekeeping association
and speaking with experienced beekeepers is the best way to find out about the
various styles of managing these problems that are commonly used in your area.191
188 Tew, “The Beekeeper’s Problem Solver”, 12.

Willette, p.44
To avoid issues of food availability place the hive as close as possible to food
sources in your area. If there is a lack of food sources in your location, investing in
flowers and other plants rich with nectar and pollen will help ensure their survival.
In addition, feeding your bees and 1 to 1 mixture of sugar and water can provide
another means of meeting the hives needs.
During every inspection always look for eggs and queen cells on the frames.
If you don’t find any eggs and can’t find the queen you are going to want to replace
her as soon as possible, otherwise the hive may not have enough bees to collect
enough food for the winter.192 Spotting queen cells on the frames is also an indicator
that the queen needs to be replaced, due to old age or sickness.193
Varroa mites are be a very big problem for the health of your hive since they
prevent new bees and adult bees from developing. There is no chemical or
management procedure to completely rid the hive of this pest, so individual
treatment regimes must be used.194 Varroa mites prefer developing drones,
therefore you can use drone combs to attract the mites away from other areas of the
brood nest.195 Once this comb is filled and capped, remove it and freeze it killing
both the drones and the mites then reuse comb for the same purpose (repeat every
18-20 days).196
195 Ibid.
196 Ibid.

Willette, p.45
Possibly the most beneficial challenge coping mechanism for a beginner
beekeeper is to invest the extra money (about $275) into starting with two hives
rather than one. With only one hive you have nothing to compare to making it
harder to access the health and productivity of your hive. If you have at least two
hives, you can assist a weaker hive by using the resources of the strong hive to
increase the chances of a success. Also, tending to hives doesn’t take up much time
since you only have to inspect the hive once every week or two and each inspection
only takes around 30 minutes.197 It’s really a matter of whether one can afford two
hives financially rather than the work burden.
Brad Sinn Interview
How did you get into beekeeping and where do you keep them?
Like many people, my wife and I had read about the bee decline. After visiting the
bee booth at the Benton County Fair we attended a Tri-County beekeepers meeting
to see what it involved. We bought two full size hives (two brood boxes and two
honey “supers” each) and placed them on our property. We live on 10 acres near St.
Stephen and the hives are in our backyard.
Why do you do it? What are the benefits of keeping your own bees?
We primarily do it because we find observing them interesting and because small-
time beekeepers like us help stabilize the pollinator population. Small hive owners
don’t have the same issues as large commercial hives. Bee hives are quite complex
little communities and they just do incredible things. We’re only in our second year
197 Mark Muldrow, interview

Willette, p.46
so we have only harvested a little honey, we let them keep it the first year to get
through the winter. It’s not a financial thing with two hives.
What have been your biggest challenges/issues so far, especially when first starting?
Anything that you didn't expect?
The biggest challenge by far is the Minnesota winter. We have two different kinds of
bees, one hive are Carniolans, which are native to Slovenia and the other are kind of
muts, Russian hybrids and Carniolans. We tried Italian bees the first year but they
weren’t robust enough for here. Losing hives over the winter is common here even
for the pros. It’s kind of disheartening because you spend all spring/summer/fall
helping them along and then they die over the winter. Also, new bees are expensive.
It’s better to be in such great shape in the Spring that you can split hives and grow
than come out of the winter with dead bees.
How did you overcome these issues?
Getting hives through the winter is touchy. Once fall arrives you have to start
feeding them sugar water after you take their honey. In MN that goes on for a long
time, we’re still doing that now. Then when they are done being active enough to
feed they get in a big ball of bees in their hive and start toughing through the winter.
Most people here cover up their hives and we do too. We use a wax coated black
box setup that you seal all up and put over the hive that eliminates wind chill and
warms up on sunny winter days. You also have to make sure they have plenty of
their own honey to get through the winter. Many larger commercial setups get
moved to Texas for the winter.
What was the initial start-up cost?

Willette, p.47
One of the largest bee supply companies anywhere is called “Mann Lake” and is
located here in MN. Surprisingly, the Dakotas and Minnesota are big bee states
although I assume many of them get wintered down south somewhere. For hives,
bee suit, smoker, etc. we spent about $500 initially. We spent more over time and a
neighbor has now given us a bunch of old hives that their Grandpa used to use.
Any laws/regulations you had to comply with?
No but we live out in a township. If you live in town, some cities have ordinances
that allow urban hives and some don’t. Many don’t have anything on the books at all
which is an issue.
How much time do you invest into your hives in a week? Differences between
seasons in time investment?
Hard to say, I don’t really keep track. Spring and Fall and busy and in the summer
they’re kind of on autopilot. It’s like doing farm chores, on a weekly basis I probably
don’t spend more than an hour or two on average. I’m also not a longtime
knowledgeable keeper, many of the TriCounty folks see and observe a lot more than
I do. I take more of a leave-them-alone approach unless something seems to be
wrong. Paying attention is key. Earlier this Fall we noticed one morning that there
was a lot of activity around one hive that seemed out of whack. I suited up to see
what was going on and they were battling hornets who were attracted by the sugar
water. I hung up a hornet trap and, since it was warm, pulled the sugar water for a
few days. Bees are subtle but you can often notice when something’s not right.
There also isn’t just “one way” to do anything. The old guys say if you ask 4
beekeepers how to do something, you’ll get 5 answers. It’s about being

Willette, p.48
knowledgeable but also paying attention and being a problem solver. That’s
definitely a big part of the interest for me.
What do you think is the best tip you could give a beginner beekeeper getting their
first hive(s)?
Join an area Beekeeping association in the winter, learn what you can and go for it.
Analysis
Brad Sinn is a relatively new beekeeper providing an excellent example of
what its like to begin a small-scale hobby beekeeping operation. One of the most
important take home points from this interview was that hobby beekeeping isn’t
about receiving the benefits of the by-products from the hive or making money. He
points out that in the two seasons he and his wife have kept bees, they have only
been able to harvest a little amount honey. Instead, his response supports the idea
that becoming a hobby beekeeper takes a certain amount of interest and/or
fascination in honeybees. “It’s not a financial thing with two hives.” It is a matter of
wanting to know more about these unique critters and having a desire to be apart of
something bigger than oneself like helping to stabilize the pollinator population.
The next big takeaway is that the Minnesota winter presents a difficult
challenge for any beekeeper. He made it clear that getting through winter takes
careful planning and likely greater inputs of time and money during the fall, to get
them through winter. Beekeeping in Minnesota requires additional commitment in
terms of providing sugar water feed in the fall, along with making modifications to
the hive and covering it before winter strikes. It should also be noted from his

Willette, p.49
experience that losing a hive during winter is common which will require additional
investment in new bees the following spring.
Lastly, this interview made me understand that every beekeeper has a
different way of doing things and hobby beekeeping is about finding out what works
best for you. Becoming a successful beekeeper takes time and may involve some
trail and error. It is important to become knowledgeable by attending beekeeping
meetings and conducting other research, in order to be as prepared as possible. But
it seems like paying close attention to hive and being a problem solver is the other
major part needed to be a successful beekeeper.
Mark Muldrow interview
How did you get into beekeeping and where do you keep them?
I had heard about the significant decline in the bee population and I thought it
would be an interesting hobby that I could also use to teach my kids responsibility,
money management and other life skills. I keep them on my property in a rural part
of Spicer. I started with one hive for 3 years and then bumped up to two, three, five,
20, and even 50 but I have gone back to only 20. I have been beekeeping anywhere
from 15-20 years now.
Why do you do it? What are the benefits of keeping your own bees?
I found it useful for teaching my kids certain life skills. I also enjoy meeting new
people and the never-ending story that comes with keeping bees that is always

Willette, p.50
growing my knowledge and experience. In addition, I make honey products like
honey butter bars that I sell at the farmers market.
What have been your biggest challenges/issues so far, especially when first starting?
Anything that you didn't expect?
Winter was the biggest wall to climb. For the first 3 years with one hive I struggled
to get my bees through winter. As I bumped up to two and three hives I
experimented with different places and bees. I tried the Italian, Carniolan, Russian
and even a Minnesota breed (not so good). I prefer the Italian bees because of they
are docile and have good honey production. I also did temperature studies in the
hive and tried different wintering methods.
How did you overcome these issues?
I talked with others and began doing temperature studies while trying out different
winter methods. I eventually came up with my own solution. I wrapped 1 inch
Styrofoam around the parameter of the hive and shrink-wrapped them tight. I
observed frost and moisture so I took the super screen bottom and added foam as
well as packed it with saw dust to help with this.
What was the initial start-up cost?
I got my start through Mann Lake for around $500 and I started knowing nothing. I
even went without a suit for 2 weeks.
Any laws/regulations you had to comply with?
Pretty loose regulation, before I had to register my hives but now there is nothing
since the state laws changed.

Willette, p.51
How much time do you invest into your hives in a week? Differences between
seasons in time investment?
From fall until February or March there is not much once the hive is prepped for
winter. During the thaw be on top of things making sure they have enough food and
there aren’t any other issues because they can die quickly during this time. I restart
packages around April and feed them for the first six weeks because this time can be
make or break for the hives survival. Once the hive is established, I only spend
around 30 minutes once a week during the spring and summer. Keep a check on the
hive population and in August there will be additional time spent to pull the honey.
What do you think is the best tip you could give a beginner beekeeper getting their
first hive(s)?
The best thing would be to get a mentor. Also you have to be willing to commit to it,
it won’t pay off if you don’t put the time in and if you do it wrong you’re going to get
“stung.”
Analysis
Mark Muldrow proved to have an immense passion for bees. In addition to
beekeeping for 15 to 20 years he teaches a beekeeping class, is involved in local
grassroots, and is glad to help anyone who calls. One of the most interesting aspects
about Mark’s story was his start. The fact that he used beekeeping to teach his kids
life skills was a unique benefit and his ability to preserver through multiple hive
losses was noteworthy. There was a significant amount of trail and error that he
went through to get his bees through winter. He increased the scale of his operation,
experimented with different locations, bees and wintering methods, and even

Willette, p.52
performed temperature studies in his hives. His experience supports that there is a
need to fully commit to becoming a hobby beekeeper and a need to be a problem
solver. Additionally, his experience further supports winter being the biggest
challenge to overcome for beekeepers (especially beginners) in Minnesota.
Mark also started knowing very little to nothing about beekeeping, which
could have contributed to his struggles in his early years of beekeeping. Although
the extent to which this impacted his struggle to get his bees through winter is
uncertain, his suggestion to get a mentor when first beginning as a beekeeper
suggests that being knowledgeable and gaining experience is key to becoming a
successful beekeeper. It will be very useful for one who seeks to start beekeeping to
learn as much as possible from those that have already experienced keeping bees in
their area. Learning what works (and what didn’t work) for other beekeepers can
provide guide for finding what will work best for you.
Another notable characteristic of Mark’s experience was his ability to find
success when he increased the scale of his operation to two and three hives, after
struggling with one hive for 3 years. This allowed him to compare his hives and help
him find success when trying different locations, bees and winter methods. Thus,
rather than starting with one hive, it may be best to start with two to compare
differences between the hives. In addition, if one hive is doing better than the other,
the thriving hive can be used to support the recovery of the stressed hive.
Recommendations
To decide whether you should keep bees you should answer the following
questions: Is it legal in my city; Am I willing and able to commit at least $500; Am I

Willette, p.53
able to spend 30 minutes to an hour every one to two weeks; Does my motivation go
beyond the benefits of the hive products; Am I willing to fully commit to do
everything I can to succeed as a hobby beekeeper?
The first step in deciding whether to keep bees is finding out if it is legal in
your city. If it is legal, carefully examine all the requirements that must be met to
ensure you are eligible and still capable to keep bees on your property. If there is no
bee ordinance for your city or other laws prohibiting bees, you are permitted to
have hives on your property. Although this could change if you become a problem to
your neighbors and they complain to the city. Thus, if you decide to become a
beekeeper I recommend you take every precaution to avoid disturbing your
neighbors including providing a water source and a six foot barrier to encourage
your bees to stay away from unwelcomed locations.
If you take advantage of a beginner kit deal and purchase a package of bees,
you can into beekeeping with one hive for around $500. Although there could also
be additional costs as you go through your first season if problems occur with your
hive. Minnesota winters present a difficult challenge for beginners requiring
extensive knowledge, close attention, careful planning, and problem solving. In
addition, I strongly recommend you start with two hives if you have the money
because you can use the resources of a strong hive to assist the weaker hive and
make comparisons, increasing your chances of success. Thus, the next question is,
are you willing to spend at the very least $500.
Beekeeping comes with a relatively low work load compared to most other
forms of animal husbandry and has numerous economic, environmental and health

Willette, p.54
benefits to make your time worth it. But the best way to decide if you should get
into beekeeping is whether you are willing to go beyond the bare minimum in terms
of investment in time and money. “I always tell beginners in my workshops, there is
only one real reason to keep bees, and that is because they are fascinating. If you
just want honey, make friends with a beekeeper,” says a beekeeper in Australia who
goes by Adrian the Bee Man.198 Becoming a hobby beekeeper shouldn’t be
completely motivated by benefits one will receive by owning a hive. Hobby
beekeepers do it for the experience and interest in the well-being of these amazing
critters, the products a just a bonus. First-time beekeeper should be willing to fully
commit to doing as much as they can to ensure the success and survival of their
hive.
If one can answer yes to all the following questions they should become a hobby
beekeeper.
1. Is it legal in my city? (See https://www.beelab.umn.edu/resources-
beekeepers/ordinances)
2. Am I willing to go beyond the bare minimum investments of time and
money?
3. Do my motivations go beyond the benefits of the products of the hive?
198 Maryam Henein, "Three Reasons to Go Against the Flow Hive." Truthout.
(Accessed December 17, 2016). http://www.truth-out.org/opinion/item/30166-3-
reasons-to-go-against-the-flow-hive.

Willette, p.55
4. Am I willing to fully commit to do everything I can to become a
successful hobby beekeeper?

Willette, p.56
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