The Buddha’s teachings may be compared to a fragrance. They are not visible to the naked eye but are
nonetheless beautiful and fragrant. The same is true of the fragrance of plum blossoms. Their mystical
and unique fragrance is unsurpassed, sometimes referred to as “amhyang” or “secret fragrance.” Neither
too strong nor too subtle, its fragrance permeates the temple compound in spring, and after a spring
rain, the fragrance of the plum blossoms grows stronger. The beautiful fragrance of the plum blossoms
permeates us like the teachings of the Buddha.
You can download the latest magazine about Templestay at http://eng.templestay.com/board/book.asp?bt=5&cid=16
You can book templestays in Korea at http://kozaza.com
3. 3
The Buddha’s teachings may be compared to a fragrance. They are not visible to the naked eye but are
nonetheless beautiful and fragrant. The same is true of the fragrance of plum blossoms. Their mystical
and unique fragrance is unsurpassed, sometimes referred to as “amhyang” or “secret fragrance.” Neither
too strong nor too subtle, its fragrance permeates the temple compound in spring, and after a spring
rain, the fragrance of the plum blossoms grows stronger. The beautiful fragrance of the plum blossoms
permeates us like the teachings of the Buddha.
—
Text and photo by Yu Dong-yeong
4. Feature Stories 1
A Spring Journey to Korea’s
“Three Jewel Temples”
Of numerous temples in Korea, Tongdo-sa, Haein-sa and Songgwang-sa,
known collectively as the “three jewel temples,” would be best visited on a
fine spring day. Buddhism cherishes what they refer to as “the three jewels,”
namely the Buddha Jewel, the Dharma Jewel and the Sangha Jewel; these refer
to the Buddha, the teachings of the Buddha and the monastic and lay Sangha
respectively. As the three jewel temples pass on the heritage of Buddhism’s
three jewels, they can be said to be the three primary temples of Korea.
—
Article by Sim In-bo | Photos by Ha Ji-gwon
A spring journey is savored best at a slow pace. For a lazy spring trip that allows one
to wander languidly for a while, occasionally stopping to rest, no place is better than a
mountain temple, especially the temples of Tongdo-sa, (the Buddha jewel), Haein-sa
(the Dharma jewel), and Songgwang-sa (the Sangha jewel). Their names alone arouse
a flutter of anticipation! I am not recommending these temples for a spring journey
just because of their fame. Throughout their millennial history, these mountain temples
have accumulated not only peace and tranquility, but also numerous icons of Buddhist
cultural heritage. Furthermore, as they are nestled deep in the mountains, the paths
leading to them are ideal for a leisurely stroll.
4
5. 5
Among the various offerings
to the Buddha, such as
lanterns, the reading of sutras,
the singing of Buddhist
hymns and flower offerings,
flower offerings are said
to be the best. That’s why
temples try to plant a variety
of flowering plants.
6. 6
1
2
1. Tongdo-sa is the Buddha jewel temple, the
foremost of Korea’s three jewel temples.
2. The Diamond Precepts Altar at Tongdo-sa
wherein the Buddha’s relics are enshrined
Tongdo-sa Templestay
Telephone
+82-55-384-7085
Website
http://www.tongdosa.or.kr
7. 7
A Visual Spectacle of Flowers at the
Buddha Jewel Temple of
Tongdo-sa
Enshrining the Buddha as a jewel, Tongdo-sa is
of Buddhist hymns and flower offerings, flower
the Buddha jewel temple. Of course there are no
offerings are said to be the best. That’s why
temples that have not enshrined the Buddha, so the
temples try to plant a variety of flowering plants.
title “Buddha jewel temple” must mean something
Tongdo-sa is no exception, and in springtime a
special. However, in the Main Buddha Hall of
spectacle of flowers can be seen here and there in
Tongdo-sa, there aren’t any Buddhas. The place
the temple compound. Of all the spring flowers,
where Buddhas would normally be enshrined is
the red plum blossoms (hongmae) in front of the
empty, and only a long horizontal window is seen.
Ancestral Hall (Yeonggak) and Paradise Hall
(Geungnak-jeon) boast a sensuous and enchanting
About 1,400 years ago, an eminent monk of
the Silla era named Ven. Jajang went to China to
beauty. When the red plum blossoms open,
study. When he came back, he brought the relics
radiating their hypnotic attraction, people flock
and the robe of the Buddha. In his search for the
from all over Korea to experience this wonder. For
best place to enshrine these two treasures, equal
these people, viewing the flowers momentarily
in status to the Buddha himself, he ended up on
takes precedence over veneration of the Buddha.
Mt. Chukseo-san in present-day Yangsan. To his
surprise, the mountain bore a close resemblance
shouldn’t be missed is found on the flower-pattern
to India’s Vulture Peak where the Buddha taught
lattice doors of the Main Buddha Hall. On the
the Lotus Sutra. Ven. Jajang established a temple
eastern doors of the Main Buddha Hall are carved
there and then built the Diamond Precepts Altar
chrysanthemums, lotus flowers and peonies.
(Geumgang-gyedan) in which he enshrined the
The doors are a masterpiece of craftsmanship.
relics and the robe. Through the window in the
Not only on the doors but also around the Main
Main Buddha Hall, the Diamond Precepts Altar is
Buddha Hall floral designs are abundant. Lotuses
visible. Because relics of the Buddha himself are
are carved into the side of the staircase, as well
enshrined there, there was no need to enshrine a
as on the front wall of the terrace. It is as though
Buddha statue. That’s why no statue of Buddha
a shower of flower petals is falling upon a house
can be found in Tongdo-sa’s Main Buddha Hall.
in a flower garden. When the Buddha taught on
The name of the mountain was soon changed to
Vulture Peak, holding a lotus flower in his hand,
Mt. Yeongchuk-san meaning “Vulture Peak.”
legend says that flowers fell from the heavens.
In spring, Tongdo-sa’s Main Buddha Hall is
Among the various offerings to the Buddha,
such as lanterns, the reading of sutras, the singing
Another kind of flower at Tongdo-sa that
reminiscent of that scene.
8. 8
Millennial Wisdom of
the Dharma Jewel Temple of
Haein-sa
When one thinks of Haein-sa, one always
Koreana is a Korean national treasure and so are
thinks of the printing woodblocks of the Korean
the repository buildings of the Panjeon. One can
Buddhist canon, the Tripitaka Koreana. People
say that here resides one Korean national treasure
of the Goryeo era collected all the teachings of
within another. Both are designated as UNESCO
the Buddha available at the time and carved them
World heritages.
onto the 81,258 printing woodblocks, a total of
52 million carved Chinese characters. If these
are beautiful. Each of the four buildings reveals a
woodblocks were stacked one on top of the other,
simple grace without any superfluous decoration.
their height would reach 3,200m, and if they were
These treasure storehouses are the oldest
laid side by side horizontally, their length would
buildings at Haein-sa. To maintain continuous air
extend 60km. This world class heritage has been
circulation, the windows of these buildings are
preserved and passed down for over a thousand
of different sizes to take advantage of the winds
years. Thus we can truly say that Haein-sa is the
coming down from Mt. Gaya-san and the winds
Tripitaka Koreana and the Tripitaka Koreana is
rising from Hongnyudong Valley. The arch-shaped
Haein-sa. Therefore, Haein-sa rightfully claims
Janggyeong-mun Gate, located at the entrance to
the title of Dharma jewel temple.
the Panjeon, casts mystical lotus-shaped shadows
The Tripitaka Koreana woodblocks were
twice a year, at the summer and winter solstices.
created as a spiritual defense against the Mongol
The Panjeon is surrounded by traditional Korean-
invasion, the royal court and the people uniting as
style walls called kkotdam, made of layered tile
one to produce them. Each craftsman maintained
and clay on which flowers are engraved. The walls
utmost sincerity by carving a character and
are just one more of Haein-sa’s artful allurements.
Aside from their fame, the Panjeon buildings
then offering a prostration to the Buddha before
engraving the next character. Upon finishing each
woodblock, they engraved their names at the end.
Such sincerity was also maintained in constructing
the repositories of the woodblocks.
These repositories are called “Janggyeong
Panjeon” or “Panjeon” for short, and are located
behind Haein-sa’s Hall of Great Tranquility
and Light (Daejeokgwang-jeon). The Tripitaka
Haein-sa Templestay
Telephone
+82-55-934-3110
Website
http://www.haeinsa.or.kr
9. 9
1
2
1. The repositories of the Tripitaka Koreana, the “Janggyeong
Panjeon,” are designated as a UNESCO World heritage.
2. A printing woodblock on which the Buddha’s teachings are
engraved
10. 10
1
2
1. Neungheo-gyo Bridge is often
said to be the most beautiful
sight at Songgwang-sa.
2. Befitting its title of the Sangha
jewel temple of Korea,
Songgwang-sa has produced
16 national preceptors.
11. 11
Philosophy of Non-possession at the
Sangha Jewel Temple of
Songgwang-sa
As the “mountain temple of non-possession,”
philosophy of non-possession, lived a life of purity
Songgwang-sa is better known for what is not
at Buril-am, one of the hermitages of Songgwang-
there rather than what is there. At Songgwang-
sa. After death, his ashes were scattered under the
sa there are neither stone pagodas nor any stone
silver magnolia tree at Buril-am.
lanterns. There are also no wind chimes, normally
found at any Buddhist temple. This is due to the
I looked for spring all day but it was nowhere
concern that even their soft melodious sounds may
to be found
disturb the practice of the monks.
Having wandered all over the mountain till
my straw shoes wore off
One legend of three coins attests to
Songgwang-sa’s being the mountain temple
I finally came back home dragging my
of non-possession. Under the lower arch of
exhausted body
Neungheo-gyo Bridge, said to be the most
Then, I found plum trees blossomed in my
beautiful sight at Songgwang-sa, a protruding
own courtyard
dragon’s head holds three coins. A long time ago,
a monk constructed the bridge with donated funds.
This is a Seon (Zen) poem written on the wall
When the bridge was completed, three coins were
around Songgwang-sa’s Bell and Drum Pavilion.
left, which the monk then hung from the dragon’s
Whenever one has the sudden thought that one
head. The point of the story is that the monks of
may still be living life wandering too hastily
Songgwang-sa wouldn’t even take three coins for
on mountain slopes, perhaps one should go to
their own personal use.
Songgwang-sa.
What is the relationship between being
the Sangha jewel temple and non-possession?
In Buddhist practice, emptying oneself of all
preconceptions and delusions comes first. Perhaps
the first step on any spiritual path should be to
cast aside all of one’s spiritual afflictions and
greed. Through this practice of emptying oneself
again and again, Songgwang-sa has produced 16
national preceptors. Among the eminent monks
of modern times, Ven. Beopjeong, known for his
Songgwang-sa Templestay
Telephone
+82-61-755-0107
Website
http://www.songgwangsa.org
12. Feature Stories 2
“When you have nothing,
you can have the whole world.”
Memories of Ven. Beopjeong,
Korea’s Great Practitioner
—
Article by Jeong Chan-ju, Novelist | Illustration by Yoo Hwan-young
12
13. 13
Not to Compare with Nor to Be like Others
The Ven. Beopjeong I Knew
—
—
Ven. Beopjeong was born in Haenam, South
I became his lay disciple when he was residing
Jeolla Province in 1932 and attended secondary
at Buril-am, that period often referred to as “Ven.
school and college in Mokpo. While he was in
Beopjeong’s golden era.” One spring day I went
college, the Korean War broke out. That tragic
down to Buril-am and stayed overnight. He gave
war, in which Koreans fought and killed other
me a Dharma name, “Muyeom” (untainted). He
Koreans, devastated him. After agonizing at great
was trying to tell me to live in the world but not to
length about violence and the innate goodness
be tainted by it.
of human beings, he took another path; he
became a Buddhist monk. Serving Ven. Hyobong
there even now, the wind chime hanging in the
as an attendant, he practiced diligently. Ven.
lower hut. Once I went to Buril-am to see Ven.
Beopjeong’s philosophy of non-possession began
Beopjeong. He told me the wind chime rang too
to germinate as he observed the way his humble
loudly the night before because of a typhoon and
teacher lived. He expounded on this concept
that he had to climb a ladder in a fierce rainstorm
of non-possession, writing: “You should be
to take it down. When I came back to Seoul, I
satisfied with just one; having two is too much.”
went to a workshop in Insa-dong and asked them
Later he published a collection of essays titled
to make a special wind chime that wouldn’t move
Non-possession (“Musoyu”), which became a
easily even in a typhoon. It was Ven. Beopjeong’s
bestseller. Many people who had previously
motto to never put off or avoid problems but to
been imprisoned in their own prison of greed and
face them here and now.
materialism, were exuberant, as if they had found
a way out. His book was loved by masses of
upon in daily life. Once a visitor told him, “You
people, regardless of their religious affiliation.
look exactly the same as when I saw you on TV.
Where is your hometown?” He answered, “Ha-ha!
To quote another teaching of Ven. Beopjeong,
Buril-am has evidence of my presence
Ven. Beopjeong found objects to meditate
“Be yourself.” He always reiterated not to
Now you see the real me; now you can believe.
compare oneself with others. Don’t try to become
My hometown… I wonder where I was I born.”
like others. Just grow into yourself. In other
words, plum trees should bear plums and rose
A photographer once took color pictures of the
bushes should bear roses.
beautiful scenery surrounding Buril-am during all
Ven. Beopjeong had a great sense of humor.
14. 14
the four seasons and published them in a book.
Without the firm determination to sever in
Giving the book to one of his female devotees, the
half all thoughts whenever they occur, it will
venerable added, “Be sure to lock the door tight
be absolutely impossible to leave.
before you read this book. You must read it alone
W
hat is a city like? It is a suffocating
in secret.” His words suggested he was giving
space wherein asphalt, paving blocks,
her some lewd magazine, which made all sitting
high-rise buildings competing for height,
around him laugh heartily.
automobiles, exhaust gases, corrupt
politicians, crime and all kinds of trash are
When Ven. Beopjeong’s fame kept increasing,
he had to leave Buril-am, often frequented by
jumbled together. How can this kind of space
visitors, and moved to a hut deep in the mountains
sprout dreams about the future, about renewal
of Gangwon-do Province. Concerned about his
and about life?
health I tried to give him a cell phone, but he
refused, saying, “I am moving into the mountains
While the venerable stayed at his hut in Gangwon-
for the sake of my practice. I ask you not to visit
do, he established Gilsang-sa Temple, thanks to
me.” However, I later had the pleasure of having
the generous donation of a benefactor, Ms. Kim
him at my place, which gives me some comfort
Yeong-han. He established the temple in order
now. Once the venerable called to inform that he
to conduct the “Clean and Fragrant Movement”
would visit my mountain residence. Later he wrote
on a larger scale. Two years before the venerable
about the visit in the monthly magazine Saemteo.
established Gilsang-sa, he called me one day to a
certain temple. Upon arrival I found the venerable,
On my way down to the southern region,
Ms. Kim Yeong-han and 3 or 4 suited men having
I visited a friend who had left the city to
a conversation. Ms. Kim Yeong-han stated that
be close to the earth in the countryside.
she would donate on the condition that an audit
I sympathized with his intention and
system be maintained through which the temple
determination to live alone in the country and
operation could be tracked. Ven. Beopjeong stood
away from the city, a hub of consumption
up right away, saying, “There are many eminent
and emaciation. As a writer he wanted to
monks in Korea. Why don’t you find one of them
begin anew in a different land. So he built a
and donate?” In the end, Ms. Kim Yeong-han
house, planted trees, dug a pond, cultivated
came back to this unkind monk and donated her
vegetables and wrote as well. I could see that
wealth without any conditions.
he was living a very healthy life. Many people
grow tired of city life but cannot readily leave
the city because each of them has their own
excuses. If you ponder on all the different
possible circumstances, you can never leave.
15. 15
To Act is harder than to Know
—
There is one touching episode from his last days
confined in bed. Perhaps it was a natural thing for
a Buddhist monk to do, but the venerable offered
morning and evening Buddhist ceremonies alone
on his sickbed, even when he had only a few days
to live. There is a proverb that says, “To act is
To quote another
teaching of Ven.
Beopjeong, “Be
harder than to know,” but Ven. Beopjeong showed
yourself.” He always
the way of a true practitioner who doesn’t stop
reiterated not to compare
practice until his last day. Ven. Beopjeong passed
away in March 2010. He left no assets, and the
oneself with others.
accrued hospital bills were taken care of by a
Don’t try to become like
businessman who had greatly respected him.
others. Just grow into
My novel Soseol Musoyu (“A Novel of Non-
Possession”) must have found its way to America
and been read by someone. The reader sent me a
yourself. In other words,
plum trees should bear
note that even now lingers in my mind: “I think
plums and rose bushes
Ven. Beopjeong is as great as the Dalai Lama.”
should bear roses.
The note reminds me of the proverb, “The beacon
does not shine on the foot of its base.” Only then
did it sink into my mind that a great practitioner
had come to us and then left. I realized then how
happy was the time I spent with him.
16. Heritage of Korea
Boudoir Culture of
Korea’s Joseon Dynasty
Meticulous Stitching
of the Bojagi
Bojagi is a cloth used to wrap bundles. It is made by sewing together scraps
left over from making clothes or blankets. As a kind of boudoir culture of the
Joseon Dynasty, a bojagi was used to wrap and carry things or to put them in
storage. The seam lines created by sewing small scraps of fabric together, the
resultant division of space and the combination of colors produce a unique
textile art. Bojagi embodies the sophisticated design sense of the Korean
women of long ago.
—
Article by Cheon Su-rim | Photos by Lee Seung-mu
16
17. 17
Handwoven Cotton
—
Simplicity and refinement are alive here. This
rare fabric was found at an antique shop in
Gyeongju. It was then dyed crimson and black
by the artist using natural methods. Handwoven cotton, called “mumyeong,” is produced
through long hours of labor beginning, from
scutching, to spinning, to weaving. This fabric is
fast disappearing from Korea.
18. 18
Ramie
—
This jogakbo or “patchwork
wrapping cloth” with lotus
motif was completed by first
drawing the basic design on
ramie fabric and then by cutting
and dying each piece of the
design components one by
one using natural methods.
The expression “delicate as
gossamer wings” describes
perfectly ramie fabric. Its
translucence is a characteristic
found only in Korean bojagi,
unlike the quilts or wrapping
cloths of other countries.
19. 19
Andongpo Hemp
—
As Andongpo hemp is often called the “windinviting cloth,” this bojagi makes the most of
the natural texture of the fabric. Dyes were
intentionally not applied to preserve its simple,
original color. As the bojagi isn’t lined, sunlight
can shine through it. Andongpo’s texture can
vary from soft to coarse, depending on the
weaver. Because of this variation, when scraps
of it are sewn together to produce a patchwork
wrapping cloth, the different textures and
shades create a natural harmony. As a specialty
of the Andong area in North Gyeongsang
Province, Andongpo was regarded as so
precious during the Joseon Dynasty that it was
only offered to the king.
20. 20
Handwoven Silk
—
A jogakbo made from remnants
of silk left over after making a
hanbok, a traditional Korean outfit.
It is a 40-year-old vintage cloth
no longer produced in Korea. Its
subdued white and ivory colors are
naturally balanced with red and
blue. Myeongju is silk handwoven
from silk thread and originally
referred to silk fabric produced in
Ming China.
Interview
Korea’s Jogakbo Artist, Kim Myeong-suk
She Never Throws Scraps Away
“Bojagi is proof that nothing should ever be carelessly thrown away as it is made by cutting
and assembling scraps of fabric left over after sewing clothes and blankets.”
So says jogakbo artist Kim Myeong-suk, who occupies a distinctive place among
Korean bojagi artists. Sometimes using rare 100-year-old cloth for her jogakbo, she finds
her vintage fabrics in antique shops or in shops that make hanbok, usually located in
traditional markets. Now beginning her 15th year as a jogakbo artist, her creations have
been shown at such places as: SOMUSHI Gallery in Gyoto, Japan; Galerie 89 in Paris,
France: Korea’s Superior Handicraft Exhibition in Europe; and at the Mae-am Tea Culture
Museum in Hadong, Korea. Bojagi is often referred to as “bo” in Korea, and people of
the Joseon Dynasty often called it “bok (lit. blessings),” close to “bo” in pronunciation.
Because bojagi is made from leftover scraps of cloth, it is a classic example of recycling.
21. 21
Oksa
—
Natural dyes like indigo stand out in this bojagi.
The colorful feast of blue, red, orange, and
yellow are reminiscent of a spring garden in full
bloom. “Oksa” refers to the silk fabric woven
from the thread spun from special cocoons
that hold more than one silkworm. Oksa
has a coarser texture than regular silk as
both thick and thin threads randomly
alternate when weaving it. Disliked
as clothing material in the
past, Oksa is now gaining
favor because people are
beginning to appreciate
its coarse texture.
22. 22
Ivetthe and Alanna
undoubtedly took away
many unforgettable
memories of their
encounter with Korean
culture at Jikji-sa’s
Templestay.
23. 23
Templestay
In Search of Freedom
and Equanimity
Jikji-sa Templestay
On a clear spring day, Ivetthe Colio and Alanna Robinson visited the
peaceful temple of Jikji-sa to learn more about Korean culture and
Buddhism. The Templestay program also gave them time to relax. Saying
that just breathing pure air and seeing the beautiful scenery had given them
some sense of healing, they let go of the fatigue accumulated from their
daily lives and filled themselves with relaxation and peace.
—
Article by Lim Su-yeong | Photos by Lee Seung-mu
After enduring a harsh winter, the trees and flowers strove to put forth new buds. In
the early spring, Jikji-sa was quiet and peaceful. The yellow Cornelian cherries, said
to have blossomed a few days before, heralded the arrival of spring, imbuing the
mountain temple with the fragrance of spring.
Nestled in the folds of Mt. Hwangak-san, the historic temple of Jikji-sa is said to
have been established by Preceptor Ado in the 2nd year of King Nulji’s reign, the 19th
king of the Silla Kingdom (418 CE). After Great Master Samyeong resided at Jikjisa, its fame increased. Ivetthe had never been to a temple during her stay in Korea, but
Alanna had been to Bulguk-sa. With a touch of excitement on their faces, both of them
arrived at Jikji-sa.
Passing through the One Pillar Gate (Ilju-mun), the temple entrance that separates
the secular world from the Buddha’s world, they walked toward the Great Sun Gate
24. 24
(Daeyang-mun). Just as the morning sun chases
Medicine Buddha were enshrined on either side
away the darkness, the Great Sun Gate is said
of Sakyamuni, a few people were performing the
to extinguish the afflictions of ignorance with
“108 prostrations.” Prostration practice embodies
wisdom. The two bubbly 20-somethings passed
the spirit of lowering oneself and serving all other
through the Great Sun Gate and the Diamond Gate
beings with love and compassion. The practice
(Geumgang-mun) on which was painted Vajrapani,
not only helps with spiritual cultivation, but also
protector of the temple. They then passed through
enhances one’s body by clearing the head and
the Gate of Heavenly Kings (Cheonwang-
warming the lower abdomen.
mun) and the Pavilion of Ten Thousand Years
(Manse-ru), finally arriving at the temple’s inner
Hall, Ivetthe and Alanna performed the Buddhist
compound.
practice of “circumambulating the pagoda,” in this
After looking around the Main Buddha
case, the three-story stone pagoda in front of the
Main Buddha Hall. Putting their palms together in
Lowering Oneself and Loving All Life
front of their chest, they slowly walked around the
—
pagoda. Upon finishing, Alanna said, “I walked
Ivetthe and Alanna participated in Jikji-sa’s
slowly counter-clockwise, one step at a time,
Templestay program along with ten Koreans. As
with joined palms. The venerable monk said to
neither of them had a good command of Korean,
concentrate my mind during circumambulation
they were provided with a translator. After,
and to pray whatever I wanted to pray or to have
changing into simple but comfortable temple
peace of mind. So I tried to remove the jumbled
uniforms, participants attended the opening
thoughts within my head. At first it was difficult
ceremony and then were taught temple etiquette.
to concentrate. However, the more I walked
around the pagoda, the more I felt calm. It was a
Smiling shyly, Ivetthe said, “I cannot speak
Korean very well and I lack a basic knowledge
wonderful experience.”
of Buddhism and temples. So even with the
translator’s help, I had a hard time understanding
“I learned that I should greet people I meet in
the instructions. Also, since I am not used to
the temple compound with joined palms. The
sitting cross-legged, my lower back began to ache.
posture of joining palms is called “hapjang” in
However, when I collected my mind and sat still,
Korea and is said to resemble the flower bud of
I began to feel at ease and had the sensation of
a lotus. Hapjang embodies the ideal singular
healing.”
focus of mind and the oneness of self and others.
This mindset also respects and cherishes others
Bathed in the daylight of spring, Ivetthe
Ivetthe also shared what she felt, saying,
and Alanna looked around the Jikji-sa temple
as oneself. Though I don’t know much about
compound. In the temple’s Main Buddha Hall
Buddhism, I found out that Buddhism regards all
(Dae-ung-jeon), where statues of Amitabha and
people as precious beings.”
25. 25
Interview with Ven. Yeo-un
A Time to Clear Your Mind and
Empty Your Head
For foreigners, a
Templestay experience
is definitely an unusual
experience: getting up at
3 a.m. to offer a Buddhist
ceremony, having
monastic meals, doing
meditation or prostration practice, making
lotus lanterns and watching the sounding
of the four Dharma instruments. All these
may seem unfamiliar but are nonetheless
interesting experiences. It is good to stay in
a temple for a couple of days and learn the
profound teachings of the Buddha. However,
I urge all participants to shed any sense of
burden about experiencing something new
and unfamiliar. All should take time to reflect
upon themselves, something they forget to do
while living hurried lives. Just resting in the
good mountain environment alone can help
them to empty their heads and regain their
presence of mind. If you can do this, you will
find the Templestay experience more than
worthy of your time.
1
2
3
1. Ivetthe and Alanna are engrossed in
putting another stone on top of the
“stacked-stone pagodas.”
2. Praying while circumambulating the
three-story stone pagoda
3. Calming their minds during meditation
Ivetthe Colio is an American
who has been in Korea for
six months. She teaches
English at a middle school in
Gyeongsan. She participated in
this Templestay mostly out of
curiosity because she had never
been to a Korean temple.
Alanna Robinson is a
Canadian who teaches English
at an elementary school in
Gyeongsan. She participated in
this Templestay to experience
Korean culture and Buddhism.
26. 26
Jikji-sa Templestay Schedule
Day 1
Registration
and provision of
temple uniforms
14:30
Temple etiquette
15:00
Dinner / Watch the
sounding of the
Dharma instruments
17:00
Evening Buddhist
ceremony
18:00
Watch a video
(The Miracle of 0.2
Pyeong)
19:00
Conversation
over tea
20:00
Bedtime
20:30
27. 27
Templestay, a Journey into Myself
—
The two women directed their steps toward the Vairocana
Hall (Biro-jeon), also called the “One-thousand Buddha Hall”
(Cheonbul-jeon) because 1,000 Buddha statues are enshrined
there. The flower-pattern lattice doors on which chestnut brown,
ochre and yellow-green flowers were intricately carved, drew
their eyes. Inside the Vairocana Hall, hundreds of lotus lanterns
hung from the ceiling, and underneath them, 1,000 jade Buddha
statues were enshrined. Upon close examination of the statues,
there is one Buddha statue standing upright in the center of them.
Legend says that if you make eye contact with this Buddha statue
after entering the Vairocana Hall, you will conceive a child.
Praising the beauty of Jikji-sa, Ivetthe said, “Jikji-sa is a
truly beautiful temple. I can imagine how magnificent it will
become in the summer when the trees and plants grow lush
1
leaves and in the fall when the leaves turn into colorful autumn
2
foliage. When I breathe the pure air here and see this gorgeous
scenery, I can feel what peace is like.”
1. In temple compounds it is customary
to greet people with joined palms.
Called “hapjang,” joining palms
symbolizes collecting scattered
thoughts into one and also that you
and I are one.
2. Beautiful flowers carved on the doors
of Cheonbul-jeon Hall
For dinner they had rice, a few simple side dishes and
fragrant mugwort soup (ssukguk). They put only as much as they
could eat into their bowls and washed their dishes afterward.
Then, the participants directed their footsteps to the temple’s
Bell Pavilion. After listening to an explanation about the four
Dharma instruments, the temple bell, cloud-shaped gong,
Day 2
Wake up
03:00
Seon meditation /
Morning Buddhist
ceremony
03:30
Walking
meditation in
the forest
05:00
Breakfast
(Baru
gongyang)
06:00
Communal
work
07:00
Pilgrimage to
Myeongjeok-am
08:30
Introduction to
Jikji-sa
09:30
Write
reviews and
impressions
10:30
Tidy up
11:00
Lunch
11:30
28. 28
1
2
1. Sharing conversation over tea with
Ven. Yeo-un
2. The Main Buddha Hall and the two
three-story stone pagodas at Jikji-sa
29. 29
wooden fish and Dharma drum, each of the participants had a
turn to sound the temple bell. As the bell’s sound permeated the
temple compound, it relaxed the participants’ bodies and minds.
Ven. Yeo-un, the guiding teacher of the Templestay,
prepared a special tea ceremony for the two foreign participants
who didn’t understand Korean well. Unlike Ivetthe, who had
never experienced a tea ceremony, Alanna, had attended a tea
ceremony in Japan. She followed Ven. Yeo-un’s directions well,
gently holding the teacup of fragrant lotus tea with her right hand
while supporting the teacup from below with her left hand.
Sipping the tea, Ivetthe said, “I usually drank coffee in
What to See and Eat
around Jikji-sa
Gimcheon International Ceramics Museum
—
This museum features
beautiful pottery
from around the
world following its
developmental timeline
from earthenware, to pottery and to porcelain.
To help with viewers’ understanding, the
museum is equipped with a video room that
shows videos on the pottery making process.
Tel. 054-430-6086
America, but I began to drink green tea more often in Korea.
This lotus tea has a deeper aroma and taste than green tea. It’s
really good!”
The time these two spent at Jikji-sa was filled with strange
experiences. They drank tea with clumsy hands, wore temple
uniforms for the first time, learned how to join their palms in
hapjang, practiced Seon meditation and experienced monastic
meals. They were hesitant and awkward at first, not knowing
what to do and sometimes giggled at themselves. Still they were
able to escape the stress that had weighed them down and were
Baeksu Literature Museum
—
This museum was
established to
commemorate the life
and achievements of
the poet Baeksu Jeong
Wan-yeong and to provide working spaces for
Korea’s literary talent. Here one can see various
photographs that give a glimpse into the life of
the late poet. His actual writing study has also
been recreated here. Visitors can also make
rubbings of his poems from woodblocks to keep
as a souvenir. Tel. 054-436-6834
able to regain an inner calm. They experienced peace of mind
and felt liberated through their “encounter with the self within.”
Perhaps that’s why a Templestay is often called “a journey into
myself.”
Though it was a rather short time, Ivetthe and Alanna
undoubtedly took away many unforgettable memories of their
encounter with Korean culture at Jikji-sa’s Templestay.
Jikji-sa Templestay
Telephone
+82-54-429-1716
Website
http://Jikjisa.or.kr
A Mouthful of the Essence of Spring,
Sanchae Bibimbap
—
In front of Jikji-sa, visitors
can find more than 30
restaurants specializing
in sanchae bibimbap (rice
topped with mountain
greens). When you mix the rice and such healthy
greens as chwi-namul (edible wild aster), gosari
(bracken fern stems), mung bean sprouts and
bellflower root together with gochujang (red
pepper paste) and sesame oil, a spoonful will
fill your mouth with the essence of spring. Side
dishes also consist of rare mountain delicacies
such as: seasoned cham-namul (Pimpinella
brachycarpa), acorn jelly, grilled deodeok
(Codonopsis lanceolata) and dureup (edible
shoots of fatsia).
30. Temple Food
Consuming the
Essence of Spring
Packed with nutrients like vitamins, calcium and minerals, spring herbs readily
relieve spring fatigue often experienced by many people. Just one bite fills the
mouth with the sweet and bitter taste of spring. Why not infuse your body with
the healthy energy of spring by preparing a variety of spring herbs?
—
The cooking and food styling of Ven. Seonggong from Daeseong-am
Hermitage of Beomeo-sa Temple
Article by Kim Gyeong-mi | Photos by Choe Bae-mun
Spring Herbs Stimulate the Palate
—
When the gentle light of spring washes over us, we naturally
seek out light, refreshing foods to satisfy our appetite. The
venerable bhikkhuni Seonggong believes that nothing can beat
spring herbs as health-enhancing food. She often spends her
spring days wandering Korea’s mountains and fields to collect
herbs.
After becoming a Buddhist nun at Beomeo-sa at the tender
age of nineteen, she learned how to prepare temple food while
cooking for older monastics and her teachers. She then began
to practice meditation at a Seon center. She is now in charge of
preparing food for the Buddhist nuns, and sometimes monks,
who come to Daeseong-am to further their practice. She says of
her work:
30
31. 31
Ingredients
2 cups rice (for two people)
A few ginger plant branches
30 grams of fresh ginger plant sprouts
Directions
1. Soak uncooked rice in water for 30
minutes and drain.
2. Cut ginger plant branches and boil them in
water about an hour.
3. Put soaked rice in a stone pot and add 1
liter of the broth from step 2.
4. Put ginger plant sprouts on top and cook
until the rice is tender.
5. Enjoy the rice with seasoned soy sauce.
Rice Filled with the Taste of Spring
Stone-pot Rice with Ginger Plant Sprouts
With its ability to blend with any food ingredients, rice can transform itself in numerous ways. Cooked with
various seasonal ingredients like beans, adzuki beans, sorghum, corn, mushrooms and the leafy herb “gondre”
(cirsium setidens), rice becomes a delicacy full of flavor and nutrition. In the early spring it is pleasing to
make a special delicacy by cooking rice with new ginger plant sprouts and the broth produced by boiling
ginger plant stems in water.
32. 32
I always think of how to make delicious food for the nuns
who visit Daeseong-am. Even the same foods will have a
different taste and texture depending on how it is cooked,
butterbur, for example. In spring the tender butterbur leaves
are great for making “ssambap” (rice wrapped in greens),
while in summer, its stalks make a flavorful side dish.
Butterbur stalks can be boiled and peeled, then fried with
powdered perilla seed.
Ven. Seonggong tries to invent new dishes by using different
cooking methods to prepare herbs and vegetables. Some
techniques are: “muchim” (to mix with seasonings); “jorim”
(to simmer in various sauces); “bokkeum” (to sautée with
seasonings); and “jjim” (to steam or make casserole).
Eating Foods in Season Revives Our Energy
—
In spring it is easy to find healthy foods because they are
abundant. Ven. Seonggong says that eating foods in season
restores our vitality and that temple food is food adapted from
nature and close to nature. Sharing her joy in making temple
food, she says:
If the nuns residing and practicing here at Daeseong-am can
maintain their health with the seasonal ingredients I use,
that alone will make me happy. I will live my life in service
making healthy food for monks and nuns. I will live today
as I did yesterday, and I will live tomorrow as I lived today.
Saying that making delicious and healthy food for others is
the Buddhist practice that gives her the greatest joy, Ven.
Seonggong walked toward the temple kitchen holding a basket
full of spring herbs. Her demeanor radiated warmth toward all
human beings.
33. 33
Ingredients
10 leaves each of dogtooth violet and
butterbur.
400 grams steamed rice
Ssamjang (2 tablespoons of doenjang, 1/2
minced green pepper, 1 tablespoon red chili
powder, 1 teaspoon perilla oil, 3 shitake
mushrooms and 2 pieces of kelp)
Directions
1. Wash and cook the rice.
2. To remove toxins from the dogtooth violet
leaves, soak them in water for a day after
boiling.
3. Parboil butterbur leaves and soak them in
water for two hours.
4. Make bite-size morsels of rice by
squeezing them in your hand.
5. Put the rice morsels on the leaves of
dogtooth violet and butterbur and wrap
them in neat shapes.
6. Serve with ssamjang.
How to Make Ssamjang
1. Make broth by soaking the shitake
mushrooms and kelp in water.
2. Put doenjang into the broth from step 1
and mix in minced green pepper.
3. Mix in red chili powder and perilla oil.
Bite-Size Morsels of Wrapped Rice Delight the Palate
Dogtooth Violet and Butterbur Leaves
Flowering in the alpine regions in early spring, dogtooth violets not only produce beautiful flowers, but their
leaves are a great food ingredient. When blanched, their tender leaves are great to wrap around rice. As a
plant naturally found in mountains and fields, butterbur also revives one’s appetite in spring with its slightly
bitter taste and unique aroma. Their small and tender leaves are also good for wrapping rice. Or they can be
parboiled to make a vegetable side dish.
34. Temple Diary
Beautiful Memories of a
Yongjoo-sa Templestay
On one drizzly spring day, I traveled to Yongjoo-sa Temple to participate in
their two-day Templestay program, along with Kate Kirkpatrick from Ireland
and Kate Miller from Canada. I wanted to introduce them to a one-of-a-kind
Korean cultural experience. It was a very special experience for all of us that
we will always cherish.
—
Article by Lee Hyo-min | Photos by Choe Bae-mun
Traditional Korean Buddhist temples, usually located high in the mountains, couldn’t
look more fabulous, but they have one drawback; they’re hard to get to. One might
think that if they were nearer and easier to get to, one would visit them right away. For
those who fantasize about such a temple, I’d like to recommend Yongjoo-sa, located in
Hwaseong, Gyeonggi-do Province, on the outskirts of Seoul.
Yongjoo-sa was restored by the 22nd Joseon King, Jeongjo, when his Buddhist
faith united with his filial piety for his late father, the Crown Prince Sado. With
its theme of “filial piety,” a Yongjoo-sa Templestay will provide not only cultural
experiences transcending your religious affiliations but, also a peaceful time for
healing by enticing you to study history and reflect on your own past.
34
35. 35
In deep communion
with nature on the
forest path.
Stilling our breath,
we listened to the
sounds of nature.
36. 36
Leave Nothing in Your Bowls at
Baru Gongyang
—
The rain, which began in the early morning,
showed no sign of letting up. About two hours
compound earlier than usual. The evening meal
after we left Seoul, the three of us arrived at
was served in the style of a formal monastic
Yongjoo-sa’s Filial Piety Cultural Institute where
meal called baru gongyang, which embodies
blooming umbrella flowers (Syneilesis palmate)
the spirit of equanimity, harmony and ecology.
greeted us in profusion. In addition to us, the
Participants take only as much as they can eat into
Templestay participants included 25 foreign
their four bowls and they must eat everything,
students from Ajou University’s International
leaving nothing. I had seen baru gongyang on
Graduate School and members of a student club
television before, but this was my first time to try
named “Nubi-ajou,” a group of Ajou University
it firsthand. Holding a bowl in my hand, I tried to
undergraduates who gathered to do whatever
eat quietly, which naturally made me concentrate
they can to help with the foreign students’ stay in
on myself. Kate Miller surprised me by saying,
Korea.
“I was impressed by the Venerable when he said
that even the water we use to rinse the inside of
Changing into temple uniforms, we first
The rain brought darkness to the temple
learned basic temple etiquette, then introduced
the bowls after eating is considered a part of the
ourselves and exchanged quick nods of
meal.”
acknowledgment. Then we took a tour of the
temple. It would have been better if it had not been
Placing a paper cup upside down, we glued 14
raining, but to walk around the temple compound
brightly-colored paper petals and 5 green sepals
protected by umbrellas had its own charm. While
on the cup one by one. We finished our lanterns,
touring the Gate of Four Heavenly Kings, the Red
infusing them with our aspirations for the year.
Gate commemorating filial piety, the Sammun
Gate, the five-story stone pagoda, Cheonbo-ru
Pavilion and the Main Buddha Hall, I reflected on
the sorrowful piety of King Jeongjo who felt sorry
for his late father who had never been crowned
king, despite being the crown prince.
After dinner, we made small lotus lanterns.
37. 37
Interview with Ven. Daehyeon
Humility Learned from Prostrating
Oneself Engenders True Happiness
As a formal monastic meal, baru gongyang stipulates
that one should take only as much food as one can eat
and eat all of it, leaving the bowl clean.
In prostrating ourselves,
our knees, elbows and
forehead touch the earth.
We can learn from this
that we cannot raise
others without lowering
ourselves first. Only
when we shed our arrogance and repent of
our folly, can respect well up in our hearts.
Human beings are part of nature. When
we open our six sense organs properly
and use them well, we can feel joy, peace
and happiness on another dimension. Try
minimizing the noise you make when you
walk or eat and concentrate on your inner
self and on nature. You will feel fulfillment
and liberation.
Diligently making lotus lanterns by
gluing petals one by one on a paper cup
Choe Seong-gyu, a Volunteer Interpreter
Yongjoo-sa has opened its
doors wide to foreigners.
They can participate
not only in regular
Templestay programs
held on weekends, but
foreigners can also apply
for a Templestay program as a group at a
time convenient for them. Because many
devotees of Yongjoo-sa donate their talents,
foreigners can receive quality interpretation
service at any time. Sometimes even I find
Buddhist terms difficult, but when I pay
attention to the Venerable’s remarks and
translate them, I find myself to be the first
one being touched by these remarks. That’s
why I work as a volunteer interpreter as often
as possible.
38. 38
108 Prostrations Boost Your Confidence
—
At 3 a.m., the temple was resolute and solemn.
Walking toward Cheonbo-ru, where the morning
Buddhist ceremony would be held, participants
walked in silent and prudent steps so as not to
disturb the darkness. After the ceremony, they
recited the Parental Benevolence Sutra, a Buddhist
sutra that explains the greatness and depth of
parental kindness and expounds on how we should
repay it. Then, participants sat in two rows facing
each other and offered 108 prostrations to the
person sitting across from them.
Kate Kirkpatrick shared her feelings, saying,
“At first, I was not comfortable doing the 108
prostrations. But upon finishing, I realized it
was not that difficult at all. While doing my
prostrations, I took the essence of the Parental
Benevolence Sutra to my heart and prayed for my
family.” Her remarks reminded me of my own
mother who must have offered 108 prostrations
many times to pray for me so that I could
successfully enter a university or get a job. I was
Lee Hyo-min (Center of photo)
“The three of us are different in appearance and
nationality, but we marvel at how similar we are in
many respects, including age, hobbies and thoughts.
I want to live a more exciting and passionate life
in 2013. I had a very special experience at the
Yongjoo-sa Templestay, along with my cherished
friends who all gave me great support. It will
remain a good memory in my heart.”
Kate Kirkpatrick (Right of photo)
“Templestay was a unique experience. I’ve never
slept on the floor using a mattress and a blanket.
Though it felt hard, I was comfortable. Especially
the 108 prostrations, conducted following prerecorded English instructions, were finished much
sooner than I expected, which surprised me.”
choked with emotion for a moment.
After breakfast, we went for a walk up Mt.
Hwa-san, located behind Yongjoo-sa. Due to the
rain from the day before, the moist earth felt soft
under my feet. Walking the forest path in silence,
I breathed in the clean air, listened to the birds
chirping from afar, and felt the soft breeze caress
my face. In deep communion with nature, I felt
cleansed both in body and mind.
Kate Miller (Left of photo)
“Baru gongyang, the 108 prostrations and our
conversation with the monk over tea were
impressive programs for me. Amongst all, the
venerable monk seemed to have a philosophy and
insight that could instantly solve various daily
problems, big or small. The conversation we shared
today over tea will remain with me for a long
time.”
39. 39
Walking toward Cheonbo-ru,
where the morning Buddhist
ceremony would be held,
participants walked in silent and
prudent steps so as not to disturb
the darkness.
41. 41
Conversation with Ven. Jeongho over Tea
—
When our walking meditation through the forest was over,
a conversation over tea with Ven. Jeongho, the abbot of
Yongjoo-sa, awaited us. We first learned how to drink
the fragrant tea properly. According to the Venerables’s
instructions, we should support the bottom of the teacup with
the left hand, hold the teacup with the right hand, and drink
the tea in three sips.
Kate Miller shared her impressions, saying, “The
Venerable said that we get attached to the constantly changing
environment and this arouses suffering. And if we haven’t let
go of the attachment, we don’t’ have true love. His remarks
resonate in my heart.” I was a bit worried whether she was
able to follow the programs well, even with the help of
an interpreter. After all, the content was not easy, even for
Koreans. She alleviated my worries with a bright smile and
a nod. I was amazed at how philosophy and ideas could be
exchanged between different nationalities and in spite of
language barriers through a conversation over tea.
My little cultural adventure with my two foreign friends
1
2
3
was almost over. It must have been not easy for them to sleep
on the floor instead of a bed, or to have to eat every morsel
of food, leaving nothing. However, my two Kates enjoyed
the whole experience with bright smiles. Thanks to them
I was also able to have a new Templestay experience and
experienced much happiness in helping them.
1. Reciting the Parental
Benevolence Sutra, participants
reflect on respect and gratitude
for one’s parents.
2. 3. Conversation over tea with
Ven.Jeongho.
Yongjoo-sa Templestay
Telephone
+82-31-235-6886
Website
http://yongjoosa.or.kr
42. 42
The Light of Spring Flows along the
River on a Flowery Breeze
A Spring Journey along the
Seomjin-gang River
43. 43
Journeys
Spring lasts awhile along the Seomjin-gang River. After some idle delay,
spring finally arrives at Maehwa Maeul (Flowering Plum Village) in
Gwangyang; and the flowers around Gurye and Hadong explode with color.
Over the low stone walls of country houses, Cornelian cherries blossom
and fade. Along the upper slopes toward the temples, a gust of wind sets
off a shower of cherry blossom petals. Tempted by this flowery breeze, I
embark on a spring journey along the Seomjin-gang.
—
Article by Lee Gang, Travel Columnist | Photos by Ha Ji-gwon
44. 44
Decorated with spring flowers, the Seomjin-gang looks both coy
and dazzling. The turquoise green water of the river, the silver
sands, the blue sky and the flowering tree-lined roads manifest
perfect harmony, a beautiful depiction of spring. My spring
journey along the Seomjin-gang begins at Maehwa Maeul in
Gwangyang, winds through Cornelian Cherry Village at Gurye,
and ends at the 4km cherry blossom road leading to Ssanggyesa Temple in Hadong. The first light of spring shines down
on Seomjin Maeul, one of the major villages on the Seomjingang, famous for its flowers. The opening of the plum blossoms
here, home to one of the most beautiful plum blossom groves in
Korea, heralds the arrival of spring. Walking along the river near
Provincial Route 861, a small village nestled in the foothills of
the mountains comes into view, enveloped by a pinkish-white
plum blossom grove, like a misty veil. The scenery exudes all
the quaint beauty of an old-fashioned country landscape.
The Simple Beauty of Korea’s Countryside
—
At the mouth of the Seomjin-gang, about the time the red plum
blossoms open their buds, spring advances onward toward
Gurye. In the foothills of Mt. Jiri-san, Cornelian cherries open
their tiny petals, as small as chicks’ toenails, in the wake of a
spring breeze. The most gorgeous scenery is found here at the
Cornelian Cherry Village located in Wian-ri, Sandong-myeon,
Gurye-gun in South Jeolla Province. On entering the village, I
find tens of thousands of Cornelian cherry trees, from dozens to
hundreds of years old, their dazzling yellow flowers blooming
along the stone wall-lined roads.
Moving along, following the flowery breeze, I arrive in
Hadong. Walking down National Route 19 that runs along the
river, I am enchanted by the spring scenery, infused with life
by the river. The blue water of the Seomjin-gang and its silver
sandy beach create a tableau through which a raft drifts lazily
46. 46
An Overnight Stay at a Mountain Temple:
Ssanggye-sa Templestay
—
As an experiential program favored
by visitors and tourists in Korea,
a Templestay provides one the
opportunity to stay in a traditional
Korean temple and renew one’s self.
Ssanggye-sa operates two types of
Templestay programs, one for rest and another to provide a cultural
experience. Participants can experience the daily life and practice
of monks by attending a predawn Buddhist ceremony, practicing
Seon (Zen) meditation and experiencing baru gongyang (traditional
monastic meals). The programs encourage inner tranquility and
revive a participant’s life force.
Cheongmaesil Farm at Gwangyang
—
Cheongmaesil Farm, located in
Gwangyang, is also a must-see. It is
renowned for its green plums, called
“maesil” (Prunus mume), fruits which
develop after the plum blossoms fall.
More than 2,000 mega-size earthen
pots fill the farm’s yard. This scene alone is enough to open and
broaden the heart of any visitor. Visitors can experience many
things firsthand here, including the preservation of maesil in sugar.
With its famous slogan, “We have everything you need and nothing
you don’t need,” Hwagae Jangteo is a marketplace frequented by
people from both Hadong in Gyeongsang-do Province and Gurye
in Jeolla-do Province. Here, market day is held every five days, on
dates ending with a “1” or a “6” (1, 6, 11, 16, etc.). While you are in
Hadong, do not miss Toji-maeul, located in Pyeongsa-ri, Agyangmyeon. As the setting for the epic Korean novel Toji, it offers a
glimpse of a traditional Korean farming village and the culture of
times past.
Jaecheop-guk Soup from the Seomjin-gang River
—
At Gurye, enrich your dining experience by
having sanchae (mountain greens) picked
from Mt. Jiri-san and chamge maeuntang
(spicy stew cooked with Chinese mitten crabs).
Some noted restaurants serving the latter are:
Dongbaek Sikdang (055-883-2439), Jirisan
Hoegwan (061-782-3124) and Jeonwon Garden
(061-782-4733). At Hadong you must try the
jaecheop-guk first. On National Route 19 are many restaurants that
specialize in this. The refreshing taste of its clear broth is known to
relieve hangovers. Here are some suggested restaurants: Haong
Chon (055-883-8261), Geumyang Garden (055-884-1580), Buheung
Jaecheop Sikdang (055-884-3903) and Seom Maeul (055-882-3580).
47. 47
by. The mountains and the river blend together,
blossom petals.
intertwined with people’s lives, to create a
picturesque beauty.
leading to Ssanggye-sa. One thing I can’t miss
in Hadong is the fragrance of wild tea. Walking
The local people call the Seomjin-gang
Tea houses dot the “cherry blossom road”
“the River of Mothers.” That is because of the
up the road, I see wild tea trees growing in the
industrious local women who gather at the river
crevices between the rocks, their aroma teasing
when the waters recede to collect jaecheop
my nostrils. Ssanggye-sa, a 1,200-year-old
(Corbicula fluminea), a kind of freshwater clam.
temple, was the first temple in Korea to grow
They dig them out by raking the riverbed with a
tea, as the Hwagae Valley on Mt. Jiri-san had
“geo-raeng-i,” a Korean tool resembling a rake.
a suitable environment to grow tea. Quenching
The way these women work hard all day, standing
my thirst with a cup of refreshing tea, I leisurely
waist-deep in the river, reveals the life of river
walk around Ssanggye-sa. The temple operates
people as it is. The river gives its all, and the
a Templestay program that gives participants the
people commune with it at the riverside, thankful
opportunity to experience monastic daily life and
for its bounty.
Buddhist practice. A Templestay might be the
ideal conclusion to one’s journey; it dissipates the
fatigue from travel and provides a Korean cultural
Toward the Four Kilometer Cherry Blossom
experience.
Road, Permeated with the Aroma of Tea
—
colored hair ribbon, spring on the Seomjin-gang
Like a shy maiden loosening her multi-
Leaving National Route 19, I direct my steps
is alive with color. My spring journey to Seomjin-
toward Ssanggye-sa Temple. At the temple
gang has given me the chance to enjoy the perfect
entrance, where the main river and Hwagae-
harmony of flowers, mountains and the river,
cheon Stream meet, there is the Hwagae Jangteo
and to spend one night at a mountain temple
marketplace. The 4km road from Hwagae Jangteo
permeated with the mystical aroma of tea.
to Ssanggye-sa is bordered on both sides with
The journey has filled my body and mind with
cherry trees in full bloom. Praised as the “most
the energy of spring; the life force courses
beautiful road in Korea,” the road is lined with
through me.
over 1,200 cherry trees ranging in age from 50-70
years. Frequently featured in dramas and movies,
the road is also called the “wedding road,” as local
legend says that if a couple walks the road under a
shower of petals, they will live happily ever after.
That’s why numerous lovers frequent this road in
the spring when the air is filled with falling cherry
Ssanggye-sa Templestay
Telephone
+82-55-883-1901
Website
http://ssanggyesa.net
48. Templestay Q&A
Information to
Enhance Your
Templestay
Experience
Monastic culture can often
be puzzling, but once you are
acquainted with it, you will feel
more at home. Here are some
basic facts that will improve
your Templestay experience.
Q. What should I bring to a Templestay?
A. Most temples provide comfortable uniforms for
the Templestay participants. Bring your toiletries, a
towel and socks. As most temples are located in the
mountains, you’d better wear comfortable sneakers
or hiking boots. In the early morning, the mountain air
can be chilly. Bring an extra jacket and scarf to keep
warm.
Q. What’s the difference between a Templestay for rest
and a Templestay for cultural experience?
A. “Templestay for cultural experience” refers to a set
program prepared by each temple. The contents
of this program can vary by season, as well as the
characteristics and location of each temple. Some
regional programs include natural dyeing techniques,
making temple food, lectures and meditation practice.
A “Templestay for rest” is a freestyle program in which
participants just observe the Buddhist ceremonies and
meal times and use the rest of their time as they wish.
This is the most popular program and often attended
by people experiencing stress.
Q. I have a different faith. Should I attend the Buddhist
ceremonies?
A. A Templestay is open to all, not as a religious
experience but as an experience in traditional Korean
culture. These days, “Templestay programs for people
of differing religions” are often held, hopefully to
promote inter-religious understanding. If you feel
uncomfortable about performing prostrations on
religious grounds, you may remain seated quietly
during ceremonies.
Q. What are the shower and restroom facilities like?
A. Temples designated as national Templestay operators
have flush toilets and showers. Newly constructed
Templestay buildings provide cleaner and better
amenities than some commercial accommodations.
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