A selection of great articles: "Eyes that Travel, See"; Habarana Highlights (Sri Lanka); One Amazing Day at Guatapé (Colombia); Attaining Culinary Bliss; Sunday in Havana with Steve (Cuba); Cancun and the Mayan Riviera (Mexico)

1. Destination Knowledge that impacts Revenue Generation
Volume One, Number Two
Autumn, 2013
In this Issue...
·Habarana, Sri Lanka
·Guatapé, Colombia
·Culinary Bliss
·Havana, Cuba
·Mayan Riviera, Mexico

2. Eyes that Travel, See
Greetings from Steve Gillick, the Publisher
Page 2
Talking About Travel Destinations
Habarana Highlights…
Page 3
The Rock with the Best View in the World
One Amazing Day in Guatapé
Page 8
Munching your Way to Happiness
Attaining Culinary Bliss
Page 11
Picture Perfect Cuba
Sunday in Havana, with Steve
Page 16
Picture This…
Cancun and the Mayan Riviera
Page 20
Cover Photo: Following the cenote in Xcaret Park in the Mayan Riviera,
you never know who you might bump into
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3. Eyes that Travel, See
Greetings and welcome to the Autumn, 2013 issue
of Talking Travel, The Magazine.
Years ago I was a tour operator. Part of my
responsibility was to hire a contingent of fifty
seasonal guides to work the seven week season of
educational tours heading from Toronto to Ottawa,
Montreal, Quebec City, Washington, Boston and
New York. As part of their training, we would take
them to the company retreat in Creemore, Ontario
and not only give them an introduction to the world
of tour guiding, but also impart our own philosophy
on the value of travel and the role of a tour guide in
enhancing this value.
One of the expressions we would discuss was the
expression “Eyes that travel, See” and we would
have the guides discuss the meaning of this. To
some, the meaning was surface-simple: people
who travel and keep their eyes and their minds
open to new destinations, people, cultures,
traditions, history, food, and the natural
environment are able to appreciate, learn and
understand. They become messengers of the
importance of travel.
But for others, there was a more subliminal
meaning to the expression. And that was from an
educational point of view, we were not looking for
what we refer to as standard corporate tour
guides—you know—the ones who sit at the front of
the bus with their back to the participants, and read
from a pre-prepared book. These people really
have—or show—no relationship with the eager
travellers in their care, or with the cherished
destinations that they visit. We weren’t looking for
the “on your left…. on your right…” type guides.
We were looking for the “Let’s get off the bus—
everyone look up at the roof..” or “everyone touch
the stones of this building and tell me why they are
so different than anything you are used to” or “Let’s
close our eyes and imagine what it was like to visit
Quebec City or Boston in the 17th Century.
According to our expression, we use the word
‘eyes’ figuratively to mean the senses, and in travel
it is important to use all 8 senses to get the most
out of the experience: There are 5 ‘standard’
senses: Seeing (or imagining), feeling, hearing,
tasting and smelling. The 6th sense is just that—
“the 6th sense”. This is that tingling sensation you
get when perhaps a situation is not as safe as
you’d like it to be, or you’re unsure of a decision to
do something. If you really don’t feel comfortable
bungy jumping and your friends are pressuring you
to do it, then your 6th sense may tell you to walk
away.
The 7th sense is very valuable to bring along when
you travel—as a tour guide, a consumer, a travel
agent or a supplier. That is, the Sense of Humour.
It is also the strongest armour to fight against your
expectations for North American services, hours,
behaviour, food, customs and protocols—and those
that exist in the country –in which you are a guest.
It’s sad to see some tourists spending most of their
time complaining or railing against the customs of
the country to which they have travelled; while
other tourists take it in stride and appreciate the
difference between their routine and a different way
of life at the destination.
And the 8th sense is a sense of accomplishment,
over-coming challenges, feeling assertive and good
about yourself. It is the sense of ‘self fulfillment’.
And certainly, this is what every travel strives to
capture in a travel experience. This is the ‘value’
that makes travel so addictive.
Talking Travel: The Magazine is owned, written and published
by Steve Gillick, Talking Travel. All Rights Reserved. Protected
by International and Canadian Copyright Law. Talking Travel:
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Talking Travel 500 Duplex Avenue Suite 2210, Toronto, ON
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Note: Steve Gillick and Talking Travel are not responsible for
outcomes based on how the ideas presented in this Magazine
are interpreted or used. Guest articles are solely the opinions of
the guest writer and not Steve Gillick or Talking Travel.

5. The greeting committee as we enter Dambulla.
I first visited Sri Lanka in 2005. When I returned in 2011, I found that it was still a wonderful
experience of smiling people, culture, history, tastes, smells, sights and discovery. While every
one of my seven days in the country was packed with experiences and activities, the two days
in Habarana were possibly the most impressive.
Habarana lies in the centre of Sri Lanka’s cultural triangle where a number of fascinating
attractions can be reached by car, usually within an hour, including Anuradhapura,
Polonnaruwa, Sigiriya, Dambulla and Minneriya National Park. While we did not see
Anuradhapura on this trip, we explored the other sites—each being an adventure unto itself.
On the journey from Colombo to Habarana, we spent time at the Pinnawala elephant
orphanage. For me it was a return visit but one of the highlights of any trip to Sri Lanka.
Have you ever bottle fed an elephant? or walked up to a mother guarding her baby and had a
spiritual one-on-one with nature? Have you ever wanted to play National Geographic nature
photographer and snap away at elephants walking a few feet in front of you as they make their
way to bathe in the river?

6. And there you are, watching the elephants cavorting and playing and showing obvious
happiness as they socialize in their family groups or receive their daily rub-down from the
mahouts. And as if this was not enough, a day later we hopped into jeeps in Minneriya National
Wildlife Park to watch the elephant herds, see the mother and aunts standing over their sleeping
two-week old babies, admire the soaring eagles and strutting peacocks and get a sense of
adventure and involvement with nature that one does not always associate with a trip to Sri
Lanka.
Our base in Habarana was the Cinnamon Lodge. Each person enjoyed their own ½ bungalow
on the large treed property, bordering a river with some eye-opening surprises: monkey troops
patrolling the treetops, a variety of birds visiting the mangroves off shore, and the occasional
mongoose poking around the dining hall in search of scraps. It was like living in a park—but with
our own house! And we had the opportunity to check out the nearby and uniquely
architecturally-designed Heritance Kandalama hotel with its distant views of Kandy and Sigiriya,
as well as the Vil Uyana Villas, where you can actually walk to Sigiriya from your luxury private
accommodation in about an hour.
The Golden Temple sits at the base of Dambulla. From here it’s a climb to the top to see
hundred s of statues of Kings and the Buddha

7. Sigiriya is a UNESCO Heritage Site that features water gardens, frescoes, an ancient mirror
wall and the huge carved paws of a lion which supposedly formed the base leading to a lion’s
head carved in the rock. The ascent to the top of the rock was through the paws and then
through the lion’s mouth. This is a walkers'/hikers' paradise, taking you up the 1000+ stairs that
lead to the highest level, past the frescoes of Apsaras (celestial nymphs), descending down a
winding staircase, and then climbing climb up, up, up. The story of Sigiriya has a few different
versions, but each one involves murder, deception and sibling rivalry…the stuff that makes for
great myths, legends and history!
Dambulla, also a UNESCO Heritage Site is a bit of an uphill climb but the caves are worth the
huffing and puffing. Five caves are filled with over 150 images of the Buddha as well as some
kings of days gone by. Strolling through and reflecting on the peaceful gaze of the Buddha’s can
be a soul-soothing exercise, especially if you can wait out the bus groups and try to be alone, in
silence and contemplation.
And there is more in Habarana. You can tour the spice gardens and learn about ayurvedic
medicinal plants (and enjoy a massage while you’re at it). At the Primate Research camp you
can learn about the indigenous monkeys as well as how to differentiate between the grey
Hanuman Langur from the Toque Macaque. (Either way don’t get too close or you will lose your
glasses or hat or camera)
And again, Habarana is only one area of Sri Lanka. On our trip we spent time in Colombo,
Kandy and Bentota Beach, each of which was a feast for curiosity and an opportunity for
conversations with Sri Lankans to learn about their lifestyle and share experiences. In fact
everywhere we went we heard the Sinhalese greeting of “Ayubowan”—that translates as ‘May
you live longer and be healthy’. Time to add Sri Lanka to that long list of ‘must-sees”
Reclining Buddha at Polonnaruwa
Elephants cavorting at Minneriya National
Park
Birding at Cinnamon
Lodge
Frescoes of Apsaras-Celestial Nymphs, Sigiriya The Dambulla Caves Monkey Patrol at Cinnamon Lodge

8. In order to ascend fabled Sigiriya, you have to pass through the two giant lion paws

9. ..
One Amazing Day in Guatapé, Colombia
The town of Guatapé lies about 2 hours
northeast of Medellin in the central area of
Colombia. We took a subway to the Northern
Bus Terminal and then a bus to Guatapé. As
most people got off at La Piedra del Peñol (the
Rock of Guatapé), we did too. A group of taxis
greeted us with warnings that the walk up the
steep hill to The Rock was too far and too tiring,
but after the bus ride, we needed some fresh
air, scenery to photograph and exercise. In fact
the walk was about 30 minutes—so not too bad
at all. And the closer you get the The Rock, the
more amazing the scenery. We paid our
admission of roughly $10.00 per person, read
the health warnings about climbing the 650
stairs (and then there are another 100 stairs if
you want to go to the very top observation
area), and began our ascent…slowly.
The views are absolutely amazing on the way
up—and then fully rewarding from the top
platforms. Crystal blue lakes interspersed
between mountains. It’s breathtaking, both
literally and figuratively. No wonder they call it
The Rock with the Best Views in the World!
Afterward, we took a tuk-tuk (motorcycle taxi) to
the town of Guatapé, about 15 minutes away.
We had a delicious ‘bandeja paisa’ lunch at La
Fogata; generous portions of fish, beans,
potatoes, bread and salad—with Club Colombia
beer, of course, and then set out to explore the
colourful buildings in the town. Hundreds of
photos later, we caught the local bus back to
Medellin. What an amazing day!
L: The steep
Stairs
ascending
The Rock
Top R: The
beautiful
scenery from
the top
Bottom R:
La Fogata-great
for
lunch along
the waterfront

10. La Piedra del Peñol, Guatapé, Colombia

11. The colourful streets of Guatapé
A tuk-tuk: Perfect for narrow town streets Just off the main Cathedral Square

12. Seared Tuna is one of the specialty dishes at Restaurant Huaca Pucllanna, next to the historic pyramid in
Miraflores, Peru
ATTAINING THE STATE OF CULINARY BLISS
Popular dictionary definitions of ‘bliss’ include words such as happiness, joy and contentment. We know that
travellers with specific interests (niches) enjoy a kind of personal bliss when they have an opportunity to
engage in their passion, whether it’s bird watching, shopping, climbing a mountain or lazing on a white sand
beach. Culinary Bliss has its own special connotation.
‘Culinary’ refers to food and drink. The presence in our daily lives of Food TV, cooking shows, celebrity
chefs and restaurant reviews has enhanced the awareness of local and international cuisine, so much so that
culinary tourism is now one of the largest niche markets. People are travelling specifically for the food
experience and/or the drink experience. And in this context the world is an open book for the curious traveller,
who is only limited by their own sense of throwing caution to the wind, experimentation, trying something new,
and acquiring food ‘bragging rights’ (e.g. I ate ants in Colombia). Of course the other side of this relates to
the traveller who wishes to try the local food in order to acquire a better understanding of the people and the
culture and the ‘taste’ of the destination.

13. ‘Bliss’ in culinary travel translates as the full
utilization of the 8 senses. There are the 5
senses that we usually consider: sight, touch,
smell, taste and hearing. The 6th sense is
exactly that: the 6th sense-consisting of that
tingling sensation; that little voice in the back of
your head that advises you NOT to do
something; that nagging doubt that what you
are about to do may not be in your best interest
(e.g. drinking your 5th cup of Tuak (a home-brewed
alcoholic beverage) in the Iban Village
in Borneo)
And the 7th sense in attaining culinary ‘bliss’ is
the sense of humour. Having fun with your
freedom to do what you want, or doing the
opposite of what your parents would advise you
to do, or just doing something for the sake of
doing it. For me, I think of the time that I was
alone in a Beijing restaurant, where no one
spoke English and I don’t speak Mandarin. In
order to order the chicken and rice dish that I
wanted, I resorted to imitating a chicken and
then imitating the act of eating rice out of a bowl
with chopsticks. The server got the message
right away and broke into a laugh and a smile—
and then so too did the entire restaurant.
And finally the 8th sense refers to the sense of
self, challenge, accomplishment, education and
savvy. This is the sense of self-worth, self-value
and confidence. In culinary circles this is
the sense you feel when you discover that
perfect meal. Sometimes we refer to this as the
“Perfect Tine Syndrome” (PTS). The tines are
the prongs of a fork. When you enjoy PTS, it
means that the food is so unbelievably good
that each tine-full of food is so incredibly
delicious that you have to lay down your fork
after every bite and contemplate the flavors and
allow your taste buds to rejoice. Of course the
same holds true with PCTS (Perfect Chopstick
Tip Syndrome).
Culinary tourism can involve any destination in
the entire world, and even if they don’t serve
their own unique local speciality, they will
certainly have their own version of someone
else’s specialty. I think of our night in Kandy,
Sri Lanka, where it appeared that every
restaurant in the city was closed, except for an
pizza chain restaurant near our hotel. We
ordered the pizza but figured that we should at
least add some local flavour—so we had
Tandoori Pizza. It tasted like spicy cardboard
but at least it was unique to the location.
Here are a few of my more memorable culinary
experiences…
A typical Iban Village in Borneo. Courtesy dictates that
your glass of Tuak always be filled to the brim
You can ride them, herd them,
decorate then and even eat them.
We ate our Yak Burgers by the
Barkhor in Lhasa

14. Tibet: Sitting in Barkhor Square in Lhasa, Tibet
we ordered Yak Burgers for lunch. The rich
taste was similar to a regular hamburger but, as
Yaks are the main work animal in Tibet, we felt
that this was more meaningful and memorable
than a regular western dish.
Mongolia: I arranged to spend the bulk of one
of my days with a Mongolian family in their Yurt
(Ger). The day before, in Ulan Bator I had been
offered, and tasted mare’s milk (horse) which is
a popular refreshment. Emboldened by the
experience the next day one the sons from the
family went into the woods with a rifle. I heard
a shot and he walked back a few minutes later
with a marmot (a large rodent). This was going
to be our lunch. I had read that marmots are
tasty, but they are also susceptible to bubonic
plague so the thought of eating one can get
your 6th sense ringing and buzzing.
Nevertheless, the ‘chef’ took the marmot,
cooked it using a blow torch, then broke it into
small pieces for everyone to taste. And,
needless to say, it tasted like chicken—a bit
greasy but not too bad. It was a matter of
respecting the family that had ‘honoured’ me
with a fresh marmot lunch.
Xian: One of the tour participants and I tried
some famous Xian dumplings and then decided
to go the distance by trying the other city
specialty: mutton soup. We climbed the stairs
to a restaurant, filled with locals, who paid very
little attention to two tourists. We didn’t really
have to say anything to the server, as the only
dish offered in the restaurant was the soup.
The waiter placed a basket of bread on the
table along with two bowls and left…and we
waited, and waited. After about fifteen minutes
we started to eat the bread—which turned out
to be a major faux pas. We received some
"tsks" from the nearby patrons and one of them
signaled for us to watch as he took a large
piece of bread, broke it into tiny pieces, and put
them in his bowl. Then the waiter picked up the
bowl, poured the mutton broth in and returned
the completed dish to the table. So we did the
same, and the waiter came by almost
immediately and returned with two large
(actually huge) bowls of greasy mutton soup.
My companion dove into the dish with gusto. I
sampled from around the edges and while the
soup was really good, I decided that a greasy
lunch on an unbelievably hot day, with lots of
activities still planned, would probably not be a
good idea. I may have been right as my
companion spent the rest of the day and night
in his room; while I scampered up the pagodas,
bought some souvenirs in the flea market and
attended an evening cultural performance.
Deep-Fried Chicken, China
Blow-torched Marmot for lunch. It tasted like chicken.

15. The freshest grilled seafood at Teba Mega Café, Jimbaran Beach, Bali Snake Fruit, Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia
Pomegranate on a vendors cart, Istanbul, Turkey
Viennese Coffee, Café Pruckel,
Vienna, Austria
Fresh, hot pupusas with spicy curtido and tomato sauce at the Pupuseria,
San Salvador, El Salvador

16. Fugu: Shimonoseki City, Chugoku, Japan.
Fugu is the dreaded poisonous puffer fish—at
least to North Americans. In Japan, especially
in the west, it is a fairly common dish most
popularly served deep-fried (you can munch it
for lunch), steamed, boiled (as part of a dish
called ‘nabe’) or as sashimi, eaten with a sprig
As the Fugu Capital of the world,
Shimonoseki even celebrates the honour
with customized manhole covers by the
seafood market
of green onion. My friend went to a market to
buy a Fugu fish to send home to his family in
Tokyo. Then he bought a small paper bag filled
with deep-fried fugu and offered me some. It
was quite nice. That evening we had fugu
sashimi with our dinner, as well as the
opportunity to chat with a fugu-certified chef—
who actually showed us how to remove the
poisonous organs. All in all it was a day of
discovery, as well as an opportunity to dispel
the myth that eating Fugu is a life-threatening
experience. I’ve eaten it many times over the
last 9 years.
Tasting the delicate finished product,
Mendoza: Argentina. If truth be told, the main
reason for choosing to explore Argentina a few
years ago was the opportunity to visit Mendoza
and Salta—two of the prime regions for the
production of Malbec wine—which is my
absolute favourite. In Mendoza we toured three
different wineries to see three different methods
of grape selection, production and storage.
And we sampled about 15 different varieties of
Malbec, learning new techniques in wine
tasting, meeting the owners of the wineries on
occasion and getting a better understanding of
the vintage, year and significance of the the
‘reserve’ label. Afterward, we checked out the
local wine markets in every place we travelled
and ended up returning to Canada with 20
bottles (as souvenirs).
Wineries, distilleries and beer and sake
breweries are always included on our travels,
for the learning experience. (And now I know
the answer to that pesky question: ‘Why does
Guinness taste so fresh in Dublin but not-so-fresh
in Toronto?’)
in Mendoza
The Shimonoseki Fish Market sells whale,
Fugu along with an incredible variety of fish.
While they did not have Guinness at this bar in
Guatemala City, my friend Mitsuru was quite
happy quaffing the Gallo Dark Stout.

17. Markets: No article on Culinary Tourism would be complete without some mention of the market-culture.
This refers to the venues where local chefs purchase fresh food for the day. I have adjusted a
travel schedule on more than one occasion to ensure that I am in town for the local market e.g. In
Kochi, Japan it was the Sunday outdoor market; in Villa de Leyva, Colombia it was the Saturday
market. Food markets allow for great opportunities to sample the local produce as well as for
photographs and videos.
Attaining a state of culinary bliss has become, for many travellers an integral part of the travel
experience. Travellers today are looking for that ‘what else can we do” when they travel and are
catering to their senses (literally) to make the travel experiences more holistic; more involved, more
meaningful, and more memorable.
The Saturday market in Villa de Leyva, 3 hours north of Bogota, starts well before sunrise and by 7:30 am, the market’s in full swing.

18. SUNDAY IN HAVANA…
WITH STEVE
Our third trip to Cuba was an opportunity to do
exactly what we wanted to do, on our own
time. As most of the charters fly directory to
the resorts, we chose a Sunwing flight into
Varadaro Airport and then we made our way to
the Iberostar Parque Central in Havana. The 2
½ hour bus trip was broken up with a short
break at a highway rest stop in Jibacoa where
you can enjoy one of the creamiest Pina
Colada’s you will get anywhere in the country.
It just sets you in the right holiday ‘let’s start to
relax’ mood!
The Iberostar is in a great location, down the
street from the Capitol Building, and literally
around the corner from the Palacio de Bellas
Artes and Obispo Street --which is the main
pedestrian thoroughfare that runs from the El
Floridita Bar (Ernest Hemingway’s famous
Daquiri hangout) to the Plaza de Armas--the
main square that is home to the Castillo de la
Real Fuerza, El Templete (commemorating the
founding of Havana in 1519) and the book fair.
Rest stop for a Pina Colada in Jibacoa on route from Varadero to Havana

19. The Malecon in Havana. Old decrepit buildings curve around the coast and seem to transform into modern structures.
Our first few days were spent wandering the
back streets, taking photos, re-acquainting
ourselves with the Brewery Restaurant in Plaza
Vieja, where the outdoor seating, the live
Cuban music, the crowds and the friendly
waiters add up to a great experience in the
Havana sunshine.
But Sunday was the day we had set aside and
actually made plans and, with a touch of
serendipity here and there (it’s amazing what
two finger puppets can get you), it turned out to
be a very enjoyable day.
We walked down Obispo Street, stopping
at the bakery by the hotel Ambus Mundos
(another Hemingway hangout) for some treats,
and then headed to the Malecon for the 45
minute walk to Callejon de Hamel.
The Malecon refers to the stretch of
sidewalk/seawall/roadway along the coast of
Havana. On this day the waters were rough
and crashed against the wall as well as onto the
sidewalk in various places—but allowed for a lot
of dramatic photos. Many of the crumbling
buildings we saw a few years ago along the
Malecon have been torn down with some more
modern apartments and hotels taking their
place, but it is still a fairly quiet area, especially
on a Sunday morning. We passed lots of
fisherman standing by or sitting on the seawall
as we walked in the direction of the Hotel
Nacional off in the distance.
But the plan was to take a left turn before the
Nacional to find Callejon de Hamel. We had
been there before, but had read that on
Sunday’s there was music and rumba dancing.
Entertaining the kids with finger puppets before the festival at Callejon
de Hamel. The delighted mother gave us seats in the front row
The passion, intensity, humour and playfulness of the singing and
dancing is electrifying

20. The alley (callejon) is full of colours and artistic
interpretations of the Afro-Caribbean religion,
Santeria. Salvador Gonzalez Escalona, the
Camaguey-born artist painted many of the
colourful murals in the 1990s, but there are also
street sculptures, bathtubs featuring scenes
from Saint Exupery’s Le Petite Prince. Art
galleries, refreshment stands and a very small
centre stage area.
The crowd started to gather by around 11:30
am and we tried to secure a good spot for
taking photos. There were some children in the
area so naturally we brought out the finger
puppet toys to the delight of both the kids and
their parents. One boy was so thrilled that we
gave him second puppet and that led to an
invitation to sit inside the chained off tourist
area to have a front row seat for the festivities.
At exactly 12:00 noon, the crowd was greeted
in English and Spanish (“...welcome to our
frennemies from the U.S…ha ha ha “). Then
the drummers started, the singers joined in, and
for the next hour the rhythms, the dancing, the
music, the interaction between the performers,
the smiles, the intensity and the devotion to
tradition, all took over to mesmerize and involve
everyone in the celebration of the Santeria
culture and religion.
With photos galore and even a few new friends,
we walked back to downtown Havana through
side streets, past the 1950’s cars for which
Havana is famous, past brightly coloured and
sadly dilapidated buildings, and through parts of
the city where tourists don’t normally stroll. But
in Havana there are salutations from people
everywhere, and safety was never a concern.
We finished the day with a visit to the book
stalls by Plaza D’Armas, a peak at the outdoor
art market and craft market near Central Park,
and then a snack of dark beer and tiny fried fish
back in Plaza Vieja.
We left Havana the next day to explore other
areas of the island. Havana is such a unique
city. For those seeking a combination of
history, people, culture, music, exploration and
photography, a few days in the city are a must
on any Cuba itinerary.

21. CANCUN AND THE MAYAN RIVIERA: SPIRITS STILL DWELL…
Shamanic Ritual on the beach of Cancun to send
away any evil spirits
Waiting for the sun’s rays to strike the Temple of Kukulkan,
Chichen itza on September 21st: the autumnal equinox
Selling Jaguar Heads to Tourists. The Jaguar helped
protect Shamans from evil spirits. It was regarded as the
lord of the underworld
Coatis, members of the raccoon family, scamper around the
beach areas looking for treats
Loading up the yachts for the short trip back to Cancun
from a visit to Isla Mujeres

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