Process Matrix Textile Weaving
Kalinga (Backstrap Weaving) Mindanao Textile Abel Iloco
Place ofOrigin Mabilongvillage
Lubuagan,Kalinga
Lake Sebu
Mindanao,Philippines
Ifugao
IndigenousPeople Magtongok T’boli Ilokano
Product Silaksakaw,aclothwhere bowls,plates,andvarious
kitchenware are placed
It came fromthe term“sakaw” whichmeanshandingthe
Kalingaheirloom.
Tibaldo,A.(2012). Weaves.Issuu.
https://issuu.com/arttibaldo/docs/weaves_2011_1st_pdf
T’nalak,T’boli ikatcloth
A deepbrownabaca-basedclothtie-dyedwithintricate designs,is
producedbywomenof Mindanao’sT’boli tribe.
Global Matters.(2009). T’nalakDreamWeavers.
http://www.tboli.globalmatters.com/
Inabel,kindof fabricmade fromcotton
“Abel isthe Ilocanowordfor weave,and“inabel”canbe
interpretedtomeananykindof wovenfabric.
Narra Studio.(2013). The Inabelof Ilocos: Woven Clothfor
Everyday.https://narrastudio.com/blogs/journal/the-inabel-
of-ilocos-woven-cloth-for-everyday
Purposesfor making textile Shelterandcover
Celebrate life
ABS-CBN News[YouTube channel].RetrievedJune 1,2019,
from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8qvz93B_2c
Income
StrengthentraditionasT’boli
Ritual purposes
Festival celebrations
Lush,E. (2016). T’nalakWeaving,Philippines.The Textile Atlas.
https://www.thetextileatlas.com/craft-stories/tnalak-weaving-
philippines
Ownclothing
Made to orderproducts
Making a living
Sustainable fashion
GMA PublicAffairs [YouTubechannel].Retrieved August12,
2018, from
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb6hSaXA7tE&t=134s
Raw material used Byuteg,threadfromthe bark of a tree
ABS-CBN News[YouTube channel].RetrievedJune 1,2019,
from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8qvz93B_2c
Abaca plant/fibers
FowlerMuseumatUCLA [YouTube channel].RetrievedJuly10,2018,
from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p443TQqJT6c
Cotton
GMA PublicAffairs [YouTubechannel].RetrievedAugust12,
2018, from
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb6hSaXA7tE&t=134s
Levelsof weavers Master weaver Accomplishedweaver Master weaver
Stepsin weaving 1. Buy stringandwash withstarch
2. Soakthe stringina hotwaterand starch solution
3. Rinse anddry the string
4. Roll the stringusingthe contraption
5. Gelay,a processdone bytwo people wherethey
pass eachotherthe thread alternately
6. Arrangingthe threadsbycolor/design
7. Tie a knot at the endof the cloth
ABS-CBN News[YouTube channel].RetrievedJune 1,2019,
from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8qvz93B_2c
1. Kedungonorabaca plant-Harvestingof the abaca andthe
strippingof the fibers
2. Connectingortembong-Segregatingthe fibersandconnecting
themfromendto end
3. Settingorsemdang-Preparingorsettingthe fibersonthe loom
for knotting
4. Designingormebed- Knottingthe fiberspriortoresist-dyeing
5. Dyeingortemogo& untyingof knotsor hemto- Gatheringand
preparingthe natural dyes,dyeingthe warpanduntyingknots
6. Weavingormewel- Settingthe dyedwarponthe backstrap
loom
7. Ironingor semaki- Burnishingthe surface of the t’nalak
One Weave One Dream,(2012). Empowering Women Through Cultural
Heritage. http://www.erincanoy.com/one-weave/ow-downloads/OW-
tnalak-process.pdf
1. Pinagbukag ti kapas – picking of cotton balls.
2. Panagladdit ti kapas – removing the seedswith the
use of a cotton gin.
3. Panangbatbat ti kapas – pounding or beatingwith
the use of the lagundi sticks.
4. Panangsunay / Panangtibbi ti kapas (Twisting) –
twisting the cotton usingthe spindle.
5. Panagilabay ti sagot (Skeining) – winding the cotton
yarn into the skeiner.
6. Panagtagud iti nailabay nga sagot (Combing) –
brushing the skeinedyarn to make it durable and
glossy.
7. Panagpulipol ti sagot (Spooling) –winding the
skeinedyarn to the bamboo spool.
8. Panaggan-ay ti sagot (Warping) – windingthe spool
yarn into the warping reel or tool for warping.
9. Pananglukot ti sagot (Beaming) – winding the warp
yarn into the warp beam rod.
10. Pinagisuboiti Gur-on (Heddling) – insertingthe warp
yarn through the heddle eye with the use of the
weaver’shook.
Every textile hasitsownstory to tell because of the intricate processit undergoes. Evenwiththe knowledge thatittakesone weekto a whole monthfor artisans to make such craft, this isn’trealizedbymost people whentheytry to
buyhand-wovenproductssuchasblankets,tablecloth,andmanyothers.Onlythose whounderstandthe indigenousprocessof makingsuchhandicraftspatronize it. Everystepmade leadstoatotalitywhichcanrepresent,illustrate and
describe a whole traditionandeventribe. To look closelytothe pattern,color and texture of an indigenouspeople’stextile is toget to know more of theiridentity.Asa student,it is importantthat I become aware of the accounts of
each textile presentedbecause I believe that not all that happened in the past is meant to be forgotten but celebrated because there’svalue in keeping our tradition alive. The textile itself will answer most of the questions we have
aboutthe culture,identity,andhistoryof the indigenouspeople.
11. Pinagisuboiti Sugod (Sleying) – insertingthe warp
yarn through the dentsor spaces of the reed with
the use of the weaver’shook.
12. Pinagipakat diay Pagablan (Tie-up/ tying- in) –
dressing the loom to tie the heddlesbehindthe
beater.
13. Agabel (Weaving) – the interlocking of vertical yarn
(warp) known as gan-ay and the horizontal yarns (weft) as
pakan.
Ferlin (2006). Abel Iloco. Museo Ilocos Norte.
http://museoilocosnorte.com/the-museum/featured-exhibits/abel-
iloco-2/
Valuesdeveloped Patience,focus,thorough
ABS-CBN News [YouTube channel].RetrievedJune1,2019,
from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8qvz93B_2c
Knowledge,patience
FowlerMuseumatUCLA [YouTube channel].RetrievedJuly10,2018,
from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p443TQqJT6c
Imagination, patience,preciseness
GMA PublicAffairs [YouTubechannel].Retrieved August12,
2018, from
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb6hSaXA7tE&t=134s
Time spentweaving 8 daysfor 6 yardsof cloth
ABS-CBN News [YouTube channel].RetrievedJune1,2019,
from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8qvz93B_2c
4 to 6 monthsfor a panel of cloth
FowlerMuseumatUCLA [YouTube channel]. RetrievedJuly10,2018,
from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p443TQqJT6c
1 dayfor 1 yard
50 yards for1 month
GMA Public Affairs [YouTube channel]. Retrieved August 12,
2018, from
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb6hSaXA7tE&t=134s
Cost of Textile 1,000 pesos per22 inches
https://shopee.ph/Igorot-Native-Fabric-22-inches-
Cordilleran-Textile-Ifugao-Benguet-Kalinga-Apayao-Abra-
Mt.-Province-i.635613435.18721354236?sp_atk=4a4c5cdb-
6f16-4c74-bfd4-9c9981a9f11f&xptdk=4a4c5cdb-6f16-4c74-
bfd4-9c9981a9f11f
950 pesospermeter
https://shopee.ph/T%27nalak--handwoven-abaca-textile-
i.75483182.7743738937
200 pesosperyard
GMA PublicAffairs [YouTubechannel].Retrieved August12,
2018, from
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb6hSaXA7tE&t=134shtt
ps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb6hSaXA7tE&t=134s

Process Matrix Textile Weaving.docx

  • 1.
    Process Matrix TextileWeaving Kalinga (Backstrap Weaving) Mindanao Textile Abel Iloco Place ofOrigin Mabilongvillage Lubuagan,Kalinga Lake Sebu Mindanao,Philippines Ifugao IndigenousPeople Magtongok T’boli Ilokano Product Silaksakaw,aclothwhere bowls,plates,andvarious kitchenware are placed It came fromthe term“sakaw” whichmeanshandingthe Kalingaheirloom. Tibaldo,A.(2012). Weaves.Issuu. https://issuu.com/arttibaldo/docs/weaves_2011_1st_pdf T’nalak,T’boli ikatcloth A deepbrownabaca-basedclothtie-dyedwithintricate designs,is producedbywomenof Mindanao’sT’boli tribe. Global Matters.(2009). T’nalakDreamWeavers. http://www.tboli.globalmatters.com/ Inabel,kindof fabricmade fromcotton “Abel isthe Ilocanowordfor weave,and“inabel”canbe interpretedtomeananykindof wovenfabric. Narra Studio.(2013). The Inabelof Ilocos: Woven Clothfor Everyday.https://narrastudio.com/blogs/journal/the-inabel- of-ilocos-woven-cloth-for-everyday Purposesfor making textile Shelterandcover Celebrate life ABS-CBN News[YouTube channel].RetrievedJune 1,2019, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8qvz93B_2c Income StrengthentraditionasT’boli Ritual purposes Festival celebrations Lush,E. (2016). T’nalakWeaving,Philippines.The Textile Atlas. https://www.thetextileatlas.com/craft-stories/tnalak-weaving- philippines Ownclothing Made to orderproducts Making a living Sustainable fashion GMA PublicAffairs [YouTubechannel].Retrieved August12, 2018, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb6hSaXA7tE&t=134s Raw material used Byuteg,threadfromthe bark of a tree ABS-CBN News[YouTube channel].RetrievedJune 1,2019, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8qvz93B_2c Abaca plant/fibers FowlerMuseumatUCLA [YouTube channel].RetrievedJuly10,2018, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p443TQqJT6c Cotton GMA PublicAffairs [YouTubechannel].RetrievedAugust12, 2018, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb6hSaXA7tE&t=134s Levelsof weavers Master weaver Accomplishedweaver Master weaver Stepsin weaving 1. Buy stringandwash withstarch 2. Soakthe stringina hotwaterand starch solution 3. Rinse anddry the string 4. Roll the stringusingthe contraption 5. Gelay,a processdone bytwo people wherethey pass eachotherthe thread alternately 6. Arrangingthe threadsbycolor/design 7. Tie a knot at the endof the cloth ABS-CBN News[YouTube channel].RetrievedJune 1,2019, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8qvz93B_2c 1. Kedungonorabaca plant-Harvestingof the abaca andthe strippingof the fibers 2. Connectingortembong-Segregatingthe fibersandconnecting themfromendto end 3. Settingorsemdang-Preparingorsettingthe fibersonthe loom for knotting 4. Designingormebed- Knottingthe fiberspriortoresist-dyeing 5. Dyeingortemogo& untyingof knotsor hemto- Gatheringand preparingthe natural dyes,dyeingthe warpanduntyingknots 6. Weavingormewel- Settingthe dyedwarponthe backstrap loom 7. Ironingor semaki- Burnishingthe surface of the t’nalak One Weave One Dream,(2012). Empowering Women Through Cultural Heritage. http://www.erincanoy.com/one-weave/ow-downloads/OW- tnalak-process.pdf 1. Pinagbukag ti kapas – picking of cotton balls. 2. Panagladdit ti kapas – removing the seedswith the use of a cotton gin. 3. Panangbatbat ti kapas – pounding or beatingwith the use of the lagundi sticks. 4. Panangsunay / Panangtibbi ti kapas (Twisting) – twisting the cotton usingthe spindle. 5. Panagilabay ti sagot (Skeining) – winding the cotton yarn into the skeiner. 6. Panagtagud iti nailabay nga sagot (Combing) – brushing the skeinedyarn to make it durable and glossy. 7. Panagpulipol ti sagot (Spooling) –winding the skeinedyarn to the bamboo spool. 8. Panaggan-ay ti sagot (Warping) – windingthe spool yarn into the warping reel or tool for warping. 9. Pananglukot ti sagot (Beaming) – winding the warp yarn into the warp beam rod. 10. Pinagisuboiti Gur-on (Heddling) – insertingthe warp yarn through the heddle eye with the use of the weaver’shook.
  • 2.
    Every textile hasitsownstoryto tell because of the intricate processit undergoes. Evenwiththe knowledge thatittakesone weekto a whole monthfor artisans to make such craft, this isn’trealizedbymost people whentheytry to buyhand-wovenproductssuchasblankets,tablecloth,andmanyothers.Onlythose whounderstandthe indigenousprocessof makingsuchhandicraftspatronize it. Everystepmade leadstoatotalitywhichcanrepresent,illustrate and describe a whole traditionandeventribe. To look closelytothe pattern,color and texture of an indigenouspeople’stextile is toget to know more of theiridentity.Asa student,it is importantthat I become aware of the accounts of each textile presentedbecause I believe that not all that happened in the past is meant to be forgotten but celebrated because there’svalue in keeping our tradition alive. The textile itself will answer most of the questions we have aboutthe culture,identity,andhistoryof the indigenouspeople. 11. Pinagisuboiti Sugod (Sleying) – insertingthe warp yarn through the dentsor spaces of the reed with the use of the weaver’shook. 12. Pinagipakat diay Pagablan (Tie-up/ tying- in) – dressing the loom to tie the heddlesbehindthe beater. 13. Agabel (Weaving) – the interlocking of vertical yarn (warp) known as gan-ay and the horizontal yarns (weft) as pakan. Ferlin (2006). Abel Iloco. Museo Ilocos Norte. http://museoilocosnorte.com/the-museum/featured-exhibits/abel- iloco-2/ Valuesdeveloped Patience,focus,thorough ABS-CBN News [YouTube channel].RetrievedJune1,2019, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8qvz93B_2c Knowledge,patience FowlerMuseumatUCLA [YouTube channel].RetrievedJuly10,2018, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p443TQqJT6c Imagination, patience,preciseness GMA PublicAffairs [YouTubechannel].Retrieved August12, 2018, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb6hSaXA7tE&t=134s Time spentweaving 8 daysfor 6 yardsof cloth ABS-CBN News [YouTube channel].RetrievedJune1,2019, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8qvz93B_2c 4 to 6 monthsfor a panel of cloth FowlerMuseumatUCLA [YouTube channel]. RetrievedJuly10,2018, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p443TQqJT6c 1 dayfor 1 yard 50 yards for1 month GMA Public Affairs [YouTube channel]. Retrieved August 12, 2018, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb6hSaXA7tE&t=134s Cost of Textile 1,000 pesos per22 inches https://shopee.ph/Igorot-Native-Fabric-22-inches- Cordilleran-Textile-Ifugao-Benguet-Kalinga-Apayao-Abra- Mt.-Province-i.635613435.18721354236?sp_atk=4a4c5cdb- 6f16-4c74-bfd4-9c9981a9f11f&xptdk=4a4c5cdb-6f16-4c74- bfd4-9c9981a9f11f 950 pesospermeter https://shopee.ph/T%27nalak--handwoven-abaca-textile- i.75483182.7743738937 200 pesosperyard GMA PublicAffairs [YouTubechannel].Retrieved August12, 2018, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb6hSaXA7tE&t=134shtt ps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb6hSaXA7tE&t=134s