You can also have a plumber use a special expensive Muck-vac tool. Dissolving the sediment is another option. Also, if you have an electric water heater, you can use a shopvac to suck the sediment out through the lower heating element. The how-to of these approaches is just below this sentence.

1. http://www.plumbingate.co.uk/
The Water heater is one of neglected appliances in homes, usually tucked away in some corner of the
garage. We don't pay much attention to it until it breaks. It has been around in its current form for a
long time. It was invented in the 1889 by Edwin Ruud and it hasn't changed much since then. It consists
of a 40 or more gallon cylindrical container with a gas burner or sometimes an electric element. It heats
the water slowly and keeps it hot all the time.
5 More Maintenance Tips for Water Heaters
Maintenance Tip #1 - Preparing the water heater. Turn off the power if its an electric water heater. Turn
off the water to the water heater by closing the valve on the cold water line. Its located on top of the
water heater. The cold line is always to the right. Open a hot water tap inside the house. Air pressure
will come out of the tap. Open the drain valve located at the bottom of the water heater. It looks like a
hose bibb. Let a gallon or more out of the water heater. Do not allow anyone to use hot water for the
time you are working on the water heater.
Maintenance Tip #2 - Overhead clearance. Anode rods are almost as tall as the water heater itself. More
often than not the ceiling is too close to the top of the water heater to be able to pull the entire anode
rod out. No matter, lift the anode rod up as far as you can. Check to see if their is any flaking on the
surface or any of its core wire is exposed. If not, then you can reinstall the anode as is. Most of the
anode rods problems occur at its top because that's where most of the hot water is. If you need to
remove an anode rod. Bend it in the middle against the water heater's opening and pull it out. To put a
new one in, simply bend it in the middle again and straighten it out at the opening. If the anode top is
wobbly when you try to screw it in, pull it half way again and attempt to straighten it as much as
possible. If the overhead clearance is less than 2 feet, buy a link-type anode rod. It has "sausage" links of
metal attached together. Its very easy to install.
Maintenance Tip #3 - Choosing anodes and replacing anodes. There are three types of metals used to
make anode rods. They are magnesium, aluminum, and zinc. If you have naturally soft water, you should
install a magnesium anode. Aluminum is used when you have very hard water or water that is softened
heavily with salts. Installing an aluminum anode after you discover your previous anode has
deteriorated heavily is recommended. If you install a magnesium anode after finding a heavily
deteriorated anode could cause a negative reaction in the water and cause pressure to release out of
the households faucets. If you have to install an aluminum anode rod, avoid using the hot water to cook
with. Modern science believes that aluminum in the water can cause Alzheimer's disease. Don't
consume any hot water. Zinc anodes are rare to find already installed in a water heater. Zinc anodes are
used to counteract the effects of sulfur smells in the water. Zinc anodes are only 10% actual zinc. The
rest is aluminum. Do not consume or cook with a zinc anode any more than an aluminum one. If the rod
bends easily in your hands, it is aluminum, if not it is magnesium. Anodes have a protective current of
about two feet. Buy anode rods that are too tall for your water heater. Cut them down if you have to.
Try to buy anodes that are more than 3 feet and 8 inches.

2. Maintenance Tip #4 - Add a second anode rod. If your water heater has an exposed hexagonal-shaped
head on top of it, you can install another anode rod for more protection for the water heater. Provided
the hex-head exists, unscrew the hot water outlet. It's the pipe on top of the water heater on the left.
This is where you can install a combination anode rod. Make sure the anode rod has a brass nipple that
is 2 to 6 inches long. Hire a plumber to do this or look for the information in my article on anode rods.
Warning: Adding a second anode can be quite a task.
Maintenance Tip #5 - Removing sediment. There are three signs you have sediment buildup in your
tank: A lower element burnout if you have an electric water heater, A lot of noise if you have a gas
water heater, or a foul odor coming from both types of water heaters. If the sediment piles up high
enough, the lower heating element in an electric water heater will be covered and unable to heat water.
If your hot water suddenly starts to run out long before it used to and you have an electric water heater,
then its probably sediment build-up. Gas water heaters get covered up by sediment down at the bottom
where the flame heats the burner plate. Water gets covered by sediment and becomes superheated
steam. This expansive steam releases pressure that sounds like a loud row happening inside. If you smell
a sulfur odor coming from the water heater, that's due to sediment build-up which breeds foul smell
bacteria inside of it. To rid yourself of these problems, install a curved dip tube. You can also have a
plumber use a special expensive Muck-vac tool. Dissolving the sediment is another option. Also, if you
have an electric water heater, you can use a shopvac to suck the sediment out through the lower
heating element. The how-to of these approaches is just below this sentence.
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