The document summarizes a trip taken along the Jemez Mountain Trail National Scenic Byway in New Mexico. It describes coming across an old vintage photo that inspired the author to explore the byway and search for the mystery village pictured, which was discovered to be Jemez Springs. The summary highlights several scenic and cultural attractions along the byway worth visiting, such as Jemez State Monument, Soda Dam, Battleship Rock, and Bandelier National Monument. It recommends spending the night at the Cañon Del Rio Bed & Breakfast and exploring the surrounding areas, with Jemez Springs serving as a nice base for day trips or overnight outings along the scenic byway.

1. February 2013
ThePiñonPress Out and About in New Mexico
This vintage image, published by the
NM Dept. of Tourism in conjunction
with their Centennial celebration
photo scavenger hunt, captivated
my imagination. It brought to mind
thoughts of the good‘ol days, back
when life was simpler, less hectic, long
before smart phones. Could a place
like this idyllic country village still exist,
locked in a time warp? I truly wanted it
to be so. Thus began my quest across
New Mexico for this, and 99 other
unnamed locales that beckoned to be
discovered.
The mystery village turned out to be
Jemez Springs, about an hour’s drive
north of Albuquerque, and a popular
destination along the Jemez Mountain
Trail National Scenic Byway. More
than sixty years have passed since the
scene was frozen in time. The tree still
stands, minus a few limbs, but much
grander in scale; the wall is modified
to accommodate its expanded girth.
The road is now paved; the gas station,
repurposed. As for the boys sitting on
the wall playing guitar (look closely, you
can see them wearing white T-shirts in
the shade of the tree)….well, I’m told by
a shopkeeper that a few still live here.
Trip #1:
Jemez Mountain Trail National Scenic Byway
“Remembrance of things past is not necessarily the
remembrance of things as they were.”
- Marcel Proust In Search of Lost Time
By Bob Groos, Contributing Writer and Photographer
continued on page 2
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2. February 2013
ThePiñonPress Out and About in New Mexico
The Jemez Mountain Trail is rich in
cultural patrimony and scenic splendor
awaits around every curve. October
is especially stunning when the
cottonwoods along the Jemez River
are in full fall glory. Easily accessible
attractions you’ll want to visit include:
Jemez State Monument - ruins of an
ancient Giusewa (“place of boiling
water”) pueblo and 17th. Century
Spanish mission; Soda Dam - an
otherworldly looking mass of mineral
deposits from underground springs
block the river flow; Battleship Rock - a
sheer cliff rising above the river like the
prow of a ship; and Jemez Falls. For the
adventurous, a side-trip with dramatic
canyon views through the Gilman
Tunnels will draw you up to Fenton
Lake.
Enthusiasts of a hot spring soak in
the wild will want to dip in Spence
Hot Springs north of Battleship Rock,
or perhaps McCauley Warm Springs
farther up the road (and a much longer
hike). At spots like these, one never
knows who one might meet. I chuckle
at the memory of the 30’s something
man (“retired”he proudly proclaimed),
reading a geology book, who stated
his life goal was to visit as many hot
springs across the US, and the world, as
possible.
Perhaps you are not so daring, but still
want to experience the thermal waters
Trip #1: Jemez Mountain Trail National Scenic Byway, continued.
in the area. Take a step back in time
and enjoy a private tub soak at the no-
frills Jemez Springs town bath house,
like folks used to do before the arrival
of indoor plumbing. Alternatively,
Giggling Springs offers an outdoor pool
(reservations recommended).
Farther east on Hwy. 4 lies Valles
Caldera National Preserve; hike through
expansive grasslands where herds
of elk roam in an ancient, collapsed
crater. Your adventure culminates at
the gem of the drive, Bandelier National
Monument. Let your mind wander as
you walk up the Frijoles Canyon loop
trail; imagine what life must have been
like for the ancestors of the Puebloan
people who established permanent
settlements in the area as far back
as 1150 BC. You can be a kid again,
climbing ladders and scrambling into
cave dwellings. Allow two hours just
to sample Bandelier; a full day or more
is not out of the question. Check the
Monument web site for changing
conditions of access and parking.
Should you want to spend the night, I
highly recommend Cañon Del Rio Bed &
Breakfast, an upscale oasis of hospitality
fronting the Jemez River (bring your
fishing license and pole); relax in the
hot tub, swimming pool, or indulge
yourself with a soothing massage in the
elegantly appointed spa; a substantial
breakfast is served at 9am. Evening
dining options are limited in Jemez
Springs, but the Los Ojos Restaurant
and Saloon (Est. 1947) will sate your
appetite and quench your thirst.
With Jemez Springs as a base, you can
explore the Jemez Mountain Trail as
day-long drive, or an overnight outing
in one of the most scenic parts of the
State. Either way, you can’t go wrong.
You will surely return.
Photo gallery
on page 3
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The trail as seen today.
Gilman Tunnels circa 1926 and now

3. February 2013
ThePiñonPress Out and About in New Mexico
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Trip #1: Jemez Mountain Trail National Scenic Byway, photo gallery.
Jemez State Monument Bandelier National Monument
Battleship RockBandelier National Monument Petroglyphs
Photo gallery continued on page 4

4. February 2013
ThePiñonPress Out and About in New Mexico
Trip #1: Jemez Mountain Trail National Scenic Byway, photo gallery.
Soda Dam
Los Ojos Cowboy Restaurant and Saloon
October on Hwy. 4
Cañon Del Rio Bed and Breakfast
Bandelier National Monument Kiva
Valles Caldera
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