Mulberrynewspaper

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The Spring Summer 2012 collection was inspired
by the Great British Summer and my own retro
seaside experience. When I was a little girl my
family and I would sit on the beach come rain or
shine (most often rain!) in waterproof pac-a-macs,
eating fish and chips and watching the activities
and flashing lights of the pier-top arcades.
This season is a tribute to that – plenty of seaside-
inspired colours, gemstones that twinkle like
neon lights and gorgeous summer prints featuring
beach scenes, donkeys, striped straws and wild
animal balloons!
It was so fantastic to work once again with Tim
Walker on our campaign shoot, as well as the
always amazing House and Holme. We love our
campaigns to have a bit of a ‘wow’ about them
as well as all the new season looks, and this is
(I say this every time) our best yet! Giant sticks of
rock, melting ice-creams and the classic seaside
setting of the UK's Brighton Beach – we worked
with an amazing team and I’m totally in love with
the final result! I also want to give a big shout out to
my fantastic Mulberry team for all their hard work,
now let’s head to the beach!
Oh I do like to be beside the seaside!
Lots of love
Mulberry’s Creative Director EmmaHill
IntroducesSpring Summer2012!
mulberry SPRING SUMMER 2012
GIa nt
sticks of rock
Brighton
Beach
weworkedwith AN
amazingteam
NOw let's headtoTHE
BEACH
ThisseasonMulberryhashitthebeachwe’repilingintoour
retro caravans for aSeventies summer of funat the seaside.
…I DO LIKE
TO BE BESIDE THE
SEASIDE
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BACKSTAGEBRIGHTON ROCKS
HAIR MAKEUPTHE TEAM
Ourcreativedirectoremmahill and brand director
GeorgiaFendleyhadadayatthe beach creating our
SpringSummer2012campaign,shot byrenowned British
photographerTimWalker.Ronnie Cooke Newhouse
andStephenWolstenholmewereon hand directing
theshoot,ASEdwardEnninfulstyled models Lindsey
WixsonandFridaGustavssonaround super sized Props
byAndyHillman.hairstylistMalcolmEdwards and
make-upmaestroValGarlandgave the girls their
English Beside-The-SeasideLook.
“Beautiful sunshine, amazing team and hundreds of children on a school trip as an audience!“
Georgia Fendley – Mulberry Brand Director
“Both girls have gorgeous golden locks, so I decided to run with that and add some hair that I had
hand dyed. I mixed a bright sunflower yellow with a burnt orange and it blended really well with
the girls’ natural tones, but gave a surreal pop of colour at the same time! We pumped up the
volume with some product and a good blow-dry, then twisted it up into two buns while Val Garland
got going on the makeup. Our models weren’t trailer trash at the fair, they were playful, gorgeous,
bubbly and charming!”
MALCOLM edwards – HAIR
“The Mulberry Girl this season has a blush buffed complexion with a rose bud bloom on the lips!”
VAL GARLAND – MAKE UP
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Theoversizedpropsforthe
campaignshootareamazing!
Whatwasyourstartingpoint
fortheircreation?
Thank you. I suppose the real starting point is
the slight wrongness of the seaside, it's a
Victorian Circus of stripes, designs and colours
which has been laminated with varying
elements of the decades since. It's not planned
or designed, it's just evolved. I think there's lots
of starting points amongst that lot if you look!
Howlongdidittaketomakea
giantmeltingice-creamconeor
astickofrock?
It took three weeks to create all the props
for the shoot.
You’veworkedwithTimWALKER
numeroustimesnow,howisitto
workwithhim?
Haha, I know whatever I say here will cringe
him out if he reads this. He is a pleasure to
work with and for, and easily one of the most
creative and inspiring people I know.
Wehaveasweettoothandenjoy
allthesugarytreatsaseaside
offers!What’syourfavourite
thingaboutbeingatthebeach?
I've a soft spot for a Mr. Whippy 99 flake,
although the older I get the more suspicious I
get of the ‘ice-cream from a machine’ concept!
HowdoyouthinkEnglishseasides
andtheeccentricitiestheycome
withcomparewithseasidesaround
theworld?
I think the British have the market sewn up for
eccentrics and as a lot of them also enjoy the
beach we must be beyond compare! I love
British beaches but I prefer mine with dunes,
cricket and picnics.
Howdidyougetintothefantastical
worldofsetdesign,andwhatare
someofyourmostmemorabledesigns
orshoots?
I was lucky enough to understudy and assist an
amazing designer for four years; it was a fantastic
education into sets. Staying on the topic of the
seaside and beaches, we once built a bathroom
on a Sicilian Beach for a shoot which was
supposed to be flooding as if you had left the
tap on. It took three long days with the wind
blowing sideways and sand clinging to everything.
We dragged it to the water’s edge to allow
the tide to roll back in and “flood” the set.
We waited and waited as the sea crept nearer.
Finally the second the first meaningful wave hit,
the whole thing fell apart or exploded, I'm not
quite sure which!
MASSIVE
ICE CREAMFALLS ON BRIGHTON BEACH
SETDESIGNERexclusiveinterview
ANDYHILLMAN
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05
TIMAND
RONNIEABOUT MULBERRY’SSS12CAMPAIGN
OurSpringSummer2012campaign was shot byBritishphotographerTimWalker,anddirectedbyRonnieCooke
NewhousefromHouseandHolme. Theycaught up over tea and cake in TheWolseleyforachataboutthenewseason,
Mulberryandtheir creative temperaments.
TimWALKER: Ronnie, what year and why did
you start working with Mulberry?
Ronnie Cooke Newhouse: Oh gosh, I can
never remember years, it’s been a while. In terms
of my relationship with the brand, mentally it
definitely started with me getting a Mulberry bag
when I was young. My father went to England
on a trip and came back with a Mulberry men’s
satchel bag. It was the start of a love affair as I
felt really special walking around with my English
satchel that no-one had in New York! And I felt
sort of transported to them – a romance that kind
of brought me to England and Mulberry. It found
me and I found it.
Tim:So it all stems from that satchel – that’s
how you knew and loved the label. Now you ask
me something!
Ronnie:Shall we talk about this Mulberry
campaign you shot? This being campaign
number three for you?
Tim:Yes, the first was the one we did in
Northumberland, and that was for Spring
Summer 2011 and we filled the room with flowers
and had a little piglet, then the second campaign
we did in March 2011 and we had Shona (Heath)
do the giant animals which was very good, those
giant eggs and the big owl! Then we shot Spring
Summer in October and the theme was Emma’s
look at the seaside so we went to the epitome
of the English seaside – Brighton – and shot on
the pier. That’s where we were! Shooting Spring
Summer 2012 in October! It could have been a
disaster, but Emma said she wouldn’t mind if it
rained and yet luckily we had perfect weather.
Ronnie:Actually we thought we had an
alternative for if it rained which didn’t work
so we really didn’t have any option if it had
poured down!
Tim:We tried to find locations in Brighton
to shoot inside if it rained, like the Brighton
Pavilion which is this incredible folly that looks
like an Indian temple with a Chinese palace
inside. But we ended up not being able to do
it there so outside it was!
Ronnie: We had the weirdest day, Indian
summer, blue sky, fluffy clouds, and it seemed
like no one in Brighton was working – everyone
was out! It was strange, like a higher power
smiled on us and said ‘we like your show Emma,
we love the bags, clothes, shoes, so we’re going
to give you a gift!’
Tim:And then we got up very early, like 5am so
we caught every bit of daylight…
Ronnie: …up to the last 30 seconds!
Tim:Because of the way I shoot we had no
lights, it was all daylight, so hair and makeup
was at 6.30, by 7 we were on the beach watching
the sun come up and then when it was going
down in the early evening we were shooting still!
Then it got cold and we all went home…
Ronnie:It was pretty magical. The girls, the two
models [Frida Gustavsson and Lindsey Wixson]
were great, really good together – like twins!
Tim:I have a question for you Ronnie, how old
were you when you realised you were motivated
by visual arts?
Ronnie:I think about three years old. I was
drawn to painting and was basically very
visually defined, in the way I thought, the way
I remember things.
Tim:So for you, visual communication is a much
more potent form of communication than the
written form?
Ronnie:Yes, in a funny way I had to learn to
communicate in all the different ways, as my
level of development was advanced visually
and then other methods caught up to that. I think
it’s common for creative people, you decipher
things, you learn things, you make sense of things,
all visually first.
Tim:I was a doodler as a child, I communicated
through sketches and would draw things to
describe them. Doodles became photographs,
I think like cartoons in a way – I see my
photography as a form of cartoon.
Ronnie:That’s so interesting…
Tim:…it was always in me to communicate
that way. I couldn’t have done it in any other way
I don’t think.
Ronnie:So in a way working with Mulberry and
Emma, her vision of things seems to complement
yours, especially in the strong visual childhood
memories.
Tim:I think a lot of us that work visually, me,
Emma, you, developed this way to communicate
and understand visually when we were young,
so still communicate like that now. Our childhoods
are therefore important to how we think, maybe
that’s the common denominator in all of us and
why we all ‘get’ what we want from images,
from campaigns.
Ronnie:We all seem to have rich memories
from our childhood definitely. I’m always going
back and wondering if the things I remember are
simplistic and barely noticed by others but for me
turned into seasons, campaigns, images or long
term fascinations. It’s how each person perceives
the situation I guess.
Tim:Exactly. I think it’s the simplicity which
makes the Mulberry campaigns a very
immediate and direct form of communication
and it seems to appeal to a lot of people.
It’s not complicated or pretentious. Emma
allows us to have fun, we all have fun and we’ve
given them fun in a picture. That’s why Mulberry
imagery elevates your spirits to look at, the
people in it are present and alive, there’s nothing
heavy or complicated. Beyond that, we were
so lucky with colour, and the sunlight, and such
colour is good for you to look at.
Ronnie:You just feel lifted by bright colours!
I think when people see the images in a
magazine they’ll want to stop for a while.
I see women in the hairdressers going through
magazines and sometimes you think the ads
are so sharp and unpleasant, you wouldn’t stop
to be drawn in by them.
Tim:I think often the models in fashion
magazines have no expression. That’s a key
thing as to why people do or don’t look at an
image properly. If the model gives an expression
they look human, not like a dead mannequin.
Both our Mulberry girls gave expression and
personality in the campaign and that showed
and that makes it alive. As long as the expression
is genuine, as long as it’s theirs, then it works.
And I hope that’s what comes across in the
Spring Summer 2012 images.
Ronnie:I think so. Emma is such a huge
fan of your work, I heard her say that all her
mood boards have at least one or two images
from your work – that’s such a special thing,
to have support and acknowledgement and
appreciation from someone who ‘gets’ you.
Tim:It definitely helps me do what I do best
and make it really happen.
Ronnie:I think for all of us it’s about finding
the relationships that work and who you know
everything will come together for. I only work with
people I want to, and you have to love what you
do and who you work with, which is not always a
given. It’s been special to find Mulberry, for both
of us – thank you Emma, thank you Georgia – we
love you Mulberry!
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EDWARD EXPOSES
EVERYONE SAY
OOOH
IntroduceustotheSpring
Summer 2012 Mulberrygirl:
I am loving the girl Emma Hill created for
Spring Summer 2012! This is her best season yet!
The Mulberry girl is well travelled, she loves to
have fun, to experiment, she loves quality, she
loves concerts – she’s a girl’s girl.
Weloved shootingatBrighton
Beach, it’s sonicetobesidethesea!
Whereis yourfavouriteplacetobe?
At home – in either New York or London.
Home is my sanctuary. But I also love the South
of France, I mean really love it. St Paul de Vence
is heaven on earth.
Thisseason,Mulberryishappiest
onthepieratnight,watchingthe
lightstwinkle!Whatisyouridea
ofhappiness?
A good fashion magazine [laughs] is that
too shallow?
We’vebeencollectingsouvenirs
fromthebeacheswevisitthis
season–whatdoyoucollect?
Old Coca Cola bottles and photography books.
We talk to STYLIST Edward Enninful
ABOUT Spring Summer 2012!
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artofthe
inspirationfor
SpringSummer
2012wasthe
eccentrically
BritishCarry
OnCampingfilm,featuring
acharacterwithiconic
catchphrases‘Dingdong!’
and ‘OoohIsay!’Wecreated
somesuper-funglasses
basedonthislight-hearted
sentimentforourgueststo
playwithatLondonFashion
Week,andatstoreevents
andparties–they’vebeen
verypopularindeed!
STAYIN THEWORLD’SFIRST
KNITTEDBEDROOM:
Local crafty type Kate Jenkins (aka Kate
Cardigan) has knitted every last inch of the Do
Knit Disturb suite in the Hotel Pelirocco, tucked
right by the beach front. Bedside lamp, in-room
telephone, seagull, curtains and even morning
fry up come clacked together on Jenkins’s
needles. From £59 a night.
www.hotelpelirocco.co.uk
Swiminthehistoriclido...beforeit’s
bulldozedinto penthouses
The grand old art deco building of the Saltdean
Lido gives it the appearance of a handsome
steam liner. Second only to the bone-chilling
briny, this 1930s pool is the best place to take
a swim in the area. Dip your toe in while you can,
as residents are currently fighting the owner’s
plans to develop it into flats. Swim for £4.
www.saltdean.info
Takeadrinkforthepeople
The Robin Hood pub was set up by local
millionaire Martin Webb in 2004. It is unique in
the UK in that every penny of profit goes straight
to local charities – meaning each time you
lift your glass, you’re doing a little bit for the
people of Brighton. Every little helps....hic.
www.peoplespubs.com
Getyourrockson
You really can’t go to Brighton without coming
back with at least one tooth cracking stick of rock.
But why settle for an off the peg candy stripe
when you can go bespoke? Sandee’s, Brighton’s
major rock maker, will manufacture you your own
personalised batch – with any words you like.
We recommend invoking the spirit of bawdy
Brighton and starting with some really dirty ones.
250 sticks of personalised rock £199.
www.letteredrock.co.uk
Havearhubarbandcustard
flavouredicecream
Just off the beach front, Scoop and Crumb
home make retro ice creams in nostalgic flavours
like Rhubarb Custard and Apple Crumble.
They also dabble in special dairy editions like
Oreo and Ginger, and towering knickerbockers
in old fashion glasses. The sorbet striped parlour
is co-owned by a Swede, meaning there’s also
a lunch menu of gravadlax and rye. But we
recommend loosening your belt and sticking
to the ‘bockers. From £4 for a knickerbocker.
www.scoopandcrumb.com
MakefriendswitholdVera
The world’s first electric railway continues to
trundle along Brighton’s seafront, linking the
Pier at one end to Black Rock, for the Marina.
Really only a brief walk, but it makes for a lovely
trip. True locomotion nerds can join VERA – the
friendly Volk’s Electric Railways Association,
who have charged themselves with protecting
the vintage railcars and its rickety old tracks.
£1.10 one way (60p for children).
www.volkselectricrailway.co.uk
Observeagerbil’sdinnerparty
It’s a museum, but not as you might know it.
Edward Booth dedicated his life to collecting
(and meticulously stuffing) birds, and his
Natural History Museum houses his collection
as well as many others – from woolly rhino
fossils to mounted chaffinches in flight.
The NHM specialises in Victoriana taxidermy,
meaning brilliantly peculiar set ups in glass
boxes – think stuffed gerbils captured mid-flow
at a dinner party. The 'exotic' room is a
particular draw – a kind of Brighton man’s
Deyrolle, with a huge collection of butterflies.
Allow a day. Free entry.
www.brighton-hove-rpml.org.uk
Getthecogsturning
Mechanical Memories recalls the simple
charms of the gaming of yesteryear. It’s an old
fashioned arcade on the boardwalk, stuffed
with jangly old slot machines from the 1900s,
horse racing games, one armed bandits – and
evening some brilliantly chintzy old fortune telling
and wish granting machines. Just don’t wish to
be big. Free entry.
www.mechanicalmemoriesmuseum.co.uk
www.timeout.com
EXCEEDINGLY GOOD
thingsto do in
brightonBY Katie Dailey, Shopping Style Editor of Time OuT
Brighton,thefreespirited
SanFranciscooftheBritish
coast,hasalwaysprovided
aboltholeforthecreative,
thevegetarian,andthe
strange.Itsbrandofbawdy
postcardfun–fromits
arcadejammedpiertoits
seafrontice-creameries–
wasfoundedonthenotion
ofharmlesslaughs,And
there’sstillnofinerplace
tofindthem.
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Mulberry NEWS
A huge thank you to everyone who attended the
show and said lovely things about us - see you
next season!
“Really really British, with a contemporary twist!”
Anna Dello Russo,
Editor-at-Large, Vogue Japan
“Mulberry’s one of the biggest British brands
and I'm always keen to see what Emma’s
doing – plus it’s always a really fun show!
The collection has a clever mix of the staples,
classic utilitarian pieces, with a light-hearted,
quite quirky English twist.”
Alexandra Shulman,
Editor-in-Chief, British Vogue
OLIVIA PALERMO ERIN O'CONNOR
Kristen Stewart Kate Moss HAYLEY ATwell ROMOLA GARAI Kristen Stewart, Emma Hill, KATE MOSS
“Next spring’s collection was a kiss-me-quick,
seaside-themed affair, with ice-creams
handed out at the door and the sound of gulls
cawing over crashing breakers piped through
the Claridge’s ballroom PA system.”
Luke Leitch,
Deputy Fashion Editor, Daily Telegraph
“It's very classic, very much my speed...rather
timeless isn’t it!”
Kristen Stewart,
actress
“Mulberry makes my mouth water!”
Brix Smith-Start,
owner of Start Boutique
SPRINGSUMMER2012
LONDONFASHIONWEEK
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08
WetookastrollalongtheEnglishseafrontanddelvedinto
aworldofretrobeachfunforourSpringSummer2012show,
held in the Claridge’s Ballroom, London in September 2011.
modelsshowedoffaseasoninspired bythe Great British
summer and Emma’s seasonal inspirations bounced off the
catwalk as well – the Ballroom was transformed into a
bright, eclectic scene reminiscent of pier arcades and
kitsch camping holidays! To make sure we all stayed in
touchwithourplayfulside,thousandsofinflatableanimal
balloonsadornedeverywall,nookandcranny–everychild’s
beachfrontdelightandtheperfect backdrop for photos!
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