Arriving in Morocco was a crash course in culture shock. The airport a sticky sea of unfamiliar 
languages and silent customs officials; the city a chaotic cluster of anachronisms — scrawny 
donkeys lugging carts of oranges and bricks, a new Mercedes cutting through medina-crowds, 
snake-charmers; rooftop-terraces bristling with flowers, wicker awnings, satellite dishes. 
I found I could only handle the city in short spurts: breathe, then step out into the onslaught and 
feel the tension spread. So much to stare at, but you can’t actually stop and stare because then 
you’re sucked into the screaming-bargaining-begging-luring-questioning of it. I made a few 
circuits of the main square (D’jema el-F’na) before getting lost within the twisting walled streets 
of the medina on the way to my Riad (unable to stop and look at a map because to do so would 
be to set off a “TOURIST” beacon for miles, not that my clothing and single-woman status 
weren’t sufficient for that).
I went out again at dusk: the square transformed, dust and smoke and music permeates 
everything, colorful hats, children wandering through crowds with trays of doughnuts, henna 
artists, stands that seemed to have appeared out of nowhere in a space that hadn’t previously 
existed. 
Eventually I was lured in by an offer of free mint tea: he was being friendly; I stupidly-honestly 
told him I was alone and then didn’t realize what was happening until he had poured a third glass 
of tea and asked to take a picture of us together. Three glasses later he was inviting me to his 
family’s house in the mountains. Part of me was tempted, as he’d mentioned his brothers and 
sisters and that didn’t sound like something a predator would do . . . but for once 
caution/common sense won out. I managed to escape without promising to come back: ‘Maybe,’ 
I said; ‘Promise?'; ‘Maybe.’ 
2

Morocco

  • 1.
    Arriving in Moroccowas a crash course in culture shock. The airport a sticky sea of unfamiliar languages and silent customs officials; the city a chaotic cluster of anachronisms — scrawny donkeys lugging carts of oranges and bricks, a new Mercedes cutting through medina-crowds, snake-charmers; rooftop-terraces bristling with flowers, wicker awnings, satellite dishes. I found I could only handle the city in short spurts: breathe, then step out into the onslaught and feel the tension spread. So much to stare at, but you can’t actually stop and stare because then you’re sucked into the screaming-bargaining-begging-luring-questioning of it. I made a few circuits of the main square (D’jema el-F’na) before getting lost within the twisting walled streets of the medina on the way to my Riad (unable to stop and look at a map because to do so would be to set off a “TOURIST” beacon for miles, not that my clothing and single-woman status weren’t sufficient for that).
  • 2.
    I went outagain at dusk: the square transformed, dust and smoke and music permeates everything, colorful hats, children wandering through crowds with trays of doughnuts, henna artists, stands that seemed to have appeared out of nowhere in a space that hadn’t previously existed. Eventually I was lured in by an offer of free mint tea: he was being friendly; I stupidly-honestly told him I was alone and then didn’t realize what was happening until he had poured a third glass of tea and asked to take a picture of us together. Three glasses later he was inviting me to his family’s house in the mountains. Part of me was tempted, as he’d mentioned his brothers and sisters and that didn’t sound like something a predator would do . . . but for once caution/common sense won out. I managed to escape without promising to come back: ‘Maybe,’ I said; ‘Promise?'; ‘Maybe.’ 2