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Guidelines and Application Form for Indian Teams
for booking of peak in Indian Himalaya
The Director, Indian Mountaineer Foundation
6, Benito Juarez Road, Adjacent South Campus, New Delhi – 110 021
Phone: 011- 2411 1211, 2411 79 35 |
Email: director@indmount.org
www.indmount.org
Dear Expedition Organizer,
On behalf of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) we look forward to receiving
your application for booking a peak in theIndian Himalaya. Please follow the process
outlined below and forward the documents to IMF. Permit will be issued within 7 days
(for open peaks), after receipt and scrutiny of documents. Processing time for peaks in
the restricted areas take between two to six months, therefore it is advisable to book the
peak well in advance. As an expedition organizer we would expect you to be fully aware
and compliant withvarious conditions prior to issue of the permit.
This document includes the following:
1. Application Form
Part A: Particulars of Leader
Part B: Particulars of Team Members
Part C: Undertaking by Expedition Leader
2. Important Guidelines
Annexure A: Environment Guidelines
Annexure B: Safety Guidelines
Annexure C: Additional Information
3. Post Expedition Responsibilities
Annexure D: Post Expedition Reporting.
Annexure E: Grade Assessment on mountain
Annexure F: Incident Reporting
After receiving the expedition report, IMF will issue the“Climb Certificate”.
Best regards,
Director
Indian Mountaineering Foundation
Application: Booking of Peak
Expedition Details Remarks
1. Name of the Peak and Altitude (Co-ordinates)
Alternate Peak and Altitude (Co-ordinates)
(In case the peak is not available for booking)
2. Route chart Attach Map/Sketch
3. Itinerary with Dates Attach
4. Leaders Particulars Write in Part A
5. Team Members Particulars Write in Part B
6. Insurance Cover obtained?
(Please refer to Para 6&7 of Part ‘C’)
Yes/No
7. Handling Agency hired
8. Doctor/Paramedic in Team Yes/No
PART A: Particulars of Leader
Passport
size
photograph
1. Name
2. Address
3. Contact No. and Email ID
4. Date of Birth
5. Occupation
6. Name, relation, contact details of next of
kin(NOK)
7. Mountaineering Courses
8. Climbing record:
Peak
Year
Highest point reached
PART B: Particulars of Team Members
Passport
size
photograph
1. Name
2. Address
3. Contact No. and Email ID
4. Date of Birth
5. Occupation
6. Name, relation, contact details of next of kin(NOK)
7. Mountaineering Courses
8. Climbing record:
Peak
Year
Highest point reached
Part C:Undertaking by Expedition Leader
I hereby undertake that:
1. Each member is participating in this activity voluntarily and at his/her own risk. IMF
would not be held responsible on any account, whatsoever, either by the organizers or
the participants.
2. I have read and understood the Environment & Safety Guidelines and Additional
information for the leader and the same have been made known to each member of
the expedition.
3. Expedition report will be submitted to IMF (AS per Annexure D), within 2 months
from the date of first summit attempt by the expedition.
4. The team will use quality equipment during the expedition which fulfills the UIAA
Safety norms.
5. All members will be covered by insurance policy with a clause, that in case of any
ground/air rescue the cost of evacuation as demanded by evacuation agency/Indian Air
Force will be paid by Insurance Company directly to them under intimation to IMF.
6. Support Staff is insured for minimum of Rs. 5 lakhs each.
7. All members of the expedition have read and understood the instructions contained
in this Brochure and agree to abide by them.
Place: (Signature of leader)
Name
Date:
Annexure A: Environment Guidelines
Annexure A: Environment Guidelines
The Indian Mountaineering Foundation has established guidelines with a view to ensure that the
Indian Himalaya is maintained well. It is imperative that expeditions do not find mountaineering
gear and garbage at base camp and on the mountain, left by earlier expeditions. The IMF has laid
down general and specific instructions for garbage and equipment management by an expedition.
General Instructions for Garbage Management:
 All members as well as the support staff must be thoroughly briefed and trained
adequately for them to be able to differentiate between Biodegradable and Non-
biodegradable waste and its mode of disposal.
 At altitudes in excess of the snow line, natural decomposition processes are slowed, thus
the waste pollutes the mountain for many years. It should be a conscious effort to leave
the camp-sites and trails cleaner than they were found.
Specific instructions related to Disposal of Waste on the Mountain:
Bio-degradable waste is a type of waste that can be broken down into its base compounds by
micro-organisms, air, moisture or soil in a reasonable amount of time. It includes green waste,
food, paper, bio-degradable plastics, human waste etc. Bio-degradable waste is to be suitably
disposed only below the snow line.

 At Base Camp a deep Toilet hole must be dug in soil and all human excretion
produced must be dumped in it during the teams stay. 

 Bio-degradable kitchen waste has to be deposited in a deep hole at base camp which
is to be covered at the end of the expedition.
Annexure A- Continued
Non-biodegradable waste is a type of waste that cannot be broken down into its base
compounds by micro-organisms, air, moisture or soil. Unlike biodegradable waste, non-
biodegradable waste remains stable indefinitely. Because non-biodegradable waste cannot be
broken down, recycling is the only option. Non-biodegradable waste includes rubber, Styrofoam,
plastic, glass, metals etc.

Non-biodegradable waste is to be:
 Collected in sacks and carried down from the camps to the road head.
 Disposed at or below the road head.
 Must be disposed by submission to vendors and other local garbage collectors in the
area or as directed by local authorities.
Specific instructions related to Mountaineering Equipment:
 All ropes and technical climbing equipment must be retrieved and carried back except in
the cases where safety is likely to be compromised. Non compliance of this instruction
must be supported by reasons in the expedition report.
 All tents, bivouac material and other permanent camp stores should not be left behind on
the mountain.
Instructions for Compliance of Environment Guidelines:
 Photo Evidence – pertaining to garbage disposal and equipment retrieval must be
included in the expedition report.
 Teams observing noncompliance of IMF guidelines by earlier expeditions are requested
to present photographic evidence to IMF.
 IMF representatives are being deployed to conduct random checks on expeditions on
the mountains and collect evidence of any violations of IMF guidelines.
Annexure B: Safety Guidelines
Disclaimer: Safety advisory section as stated below is not intended to contain
comprehensive material but rather serve asimportant basic points which have evolved
over the years from previous expeditions.
Subject Advisory Details
Planning Choice of the climbing objective must be a function of expertise, experience, technical
competence and fitness of the team as a whole.
Insurance Additional clause for altitude and exposure related physiological conditions (Frost Bite,
Hypothermia, HAPE,and HACEetc.) should preferably be included in the scope of insurance
or covered through a separate ‘Medi claim’ policy.
Gear Check Use quality gears particularly the high dependence items such as: ropes (inspection,
palpation and aging), runners and slings, carabiners, harness and helmets. It is
recommended that safety helmets and inter camp communication equipment
Is carried and used by team members.
Medical
Experience
The team leader should obtain a medical fitness certificate for undertaking the expedition
from each member. The team should preferably include a doctor or paramedic.
Medical Courses Expedition Leader and Member’s are advised to participate in Training program titled -
Emergency Responder -First Aid for Wilderness. Program schedule is available on IMF
website.
Weather Do a pre-climb mountain weather check but remember to do a day-to-day corroboration with
visual inspection as Himalaya are notorious for sudden development of un-expected severe
micro weather systems and also consult a local guide .
AnnexureC: Additional Information for Leader
1. Qualifications for Leader: Should be above 25 years of age and qualified inadvance
mountaineering course from a recognized Institute. Should have participated in at least two
expeditions to peaks above 6,400m and reached the summit of at least one peak above
6,400m.
2. Qualifications & Composition of Team: The team should have adequate number of
members qualified on advance mountaineering courses with experience of expeditions. Up to
two members with high altitude trekking, rock climbing and related experience, may be
included. The team finally selected should be capable of dealing with all possible
contingencies.
3. Equipment Hiring from IMF: Equipment would be available for hire against security
deposit and would be subject toavailability.
4. Boarding/Lodging at IMF: Dormitory for 30 persons is available at IMF on first-come first-
serve basis.
5. Working hours at IMF: 10am to 5pm from Monday to Saturday except - holidays and
secondSaturdays.
6. Booking of Peaks: Would be done on first come first serve basis. A delay in submission of
applicationand documents could result in cancellation of the provisional booking of the peak.
7. Duration of Expedition: Peak(s) bookings are valid for 30 to 45 days from Base Camp to
Base Camp. The permit will be granted for the same duration to maximum up to 30 to 35
climbing members. The mountains attracting more climbers than above will be given climbing
permit with the gap of 10 days. The team members should be educated and be prepared to
attempt the mountain alongside other expeditions.
8. Report and certificate: The IMF will issue the “Climb Certificate” only after the receipt of
expedition report. Prior to the issue of “Climb Certificate”, IMF may review the report through
IMF Expedition Report Verification Committee. In case of any irregularity in the report,
suitable regulatory action will be taken against the expedition.
9. Member in a Team: All expeditions, including joint expeditions, will have a maximum
twelve and minimum two climbing members. Expeditions will not be allowed to take trekking
parties, film crews or others as additional members.
10. Any member of an expedition/tour operators (if expedition organized through an
agency), found climbing or attempting to climb a peak without permit from IMF or violating the
environment protection rules, shall be liable to be debarred from undertaking any
mountaineering expedition in India for a period ranging from 02 to 05 years. In addition, they
may be dealt with, under the relevant laws. For any accident due to negligence on the
mountain, Leader shall be held accountable and debarred from participating in mountaineering
expeditions for a period ranging from 02 to 05 years.
AnnexureD: Expedition Reporting Guidelines
Leader is required to forward Expedition report to IMF within two months of first summit
attempt. The guidelines for filling the report are available on IMF website.
1. Route with Itinerary
(Beyond and up to base Camp)
Attach
2. Summit Attempts (Brief description
enclosing photographic proofs)
3. Have you left the mountain clean and
brought back all the garbage as per
laid down environment guidelines
4. Note on local culture, flora and fauna
Annexure E: Grade Assessment Reporting
The expeditions are required to articulate the technical difficulties encountered during
the expedition as under:
Subject Details
Name of Mountain
Face/ Ridge Attempted
Nature of the face e.g. rock, snow, ice, seracs,
overhangs etc.
Gradient of the route in approximate degrees
and description of artificial technical aids used
to negotiate difficulty.
Technical Difficulty with Grade
(refer to grade description)
Annexure E: Continued
GRADE DESCRIPTION
Technical Grades Description
Grade 1 Easy approach on rock/ snow/ ice slopes with shallow gradient
Grade 2 Rock/ snow/ ice slopes up to 45 degrees where climbing may require
anchoring, belaying and or abseiling due to objective hazard
Grade 3 Fairly difficult rock/ snow/ ice slopes at an angle between 45 degrees&
60 degrees with considerable exposed face. Needs belaying with safe
anchor due to significant objective hazard.
Grade 4 Hard more exposed slope at 50-70 degrees angle on longer routes with
sustained difficulty. Such a grade poses serious objective hazard.
Grade 5 Very hard route with high level of objective hazards on rock/ snow/ ice
slopes at an angle between 65 and 80 degrees. Requires various
technical safety aids on very long sections of hard climbing.
Grade 6 Extremely difficult pitches with exceptional objective hazards, climbing
involves vertical rock/ snow/ice slopes using multiple technical aids.
Grade 7 Difficulty and danger at their limits. Climb involves negotiating dangerous
and maximum exposed overhanging rock/ snow/ ice faces multiple
technical aids.
.
.
Annexure F: Incident Reporting
1. All expeditions are expected to report in detail on any incidents which has taken place
during the expedition involving members or support staff. Following type of incidents should be
reported:
a) Climbing Accidents
b) Cases of Severe Altitude Sickness
c) Animals Attack
d) Severe Weather Disturbances
e) Avalanches and Landslides
2. Expeditions are requested to share a detailed note with pictures about the incident with
IMF. The IMF has established a process to consolidate information on all reported incidents with
a view to establish an advisory which will be shared with expeditions which are being planned in
the future and also on its website.

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Imf indianexp(4.4.2018)

  • 1. Guidelines and Application Form for Indian Teams for booking of peak in Indian Himalaya The Director, Indian Mountaineer Foundation 6, Benito Juarez Road, Adjacent South Campus, New Delhi – 110 021 Phone: 011- 2411 1211, 2411 79 35 | Email: director@indmount.org www.indmount.org
  • 2. Dear Expedition Organizer, On behalf of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) we look forward to receiving your application for booking a peak in theIndian Himalaya. Please follow the process outlined below and forward the documents to IMF. Permit will be issued within 7 days (for open peaks), after receipt and scrutiny of documents. Processing time for peaks in the restricted areas take between two to six months, therefore it is advisable to book the peak well in advance. As an expedition organizer we would expect you to be fully aware and compliant withvarious conditions prior to issue of the permit. This document includes the following: 1. Application Form Part A: Particulars of Leader Part B: Particulars of Team Members Part C: Undertaking by Expedition Leader 2. Important Guidelines Annexure A: Environment Guidelines Annexure B: Safety Guidelines Annexure C: Additional Information 3. Post Expedition Responsibilities Annexure D: Post Expedition Reporting. Annexure E: Grade Assessment on mountain Annexure F: Incident Reporting After receiving the expedition report, IMF will issue the“Climb Certificate”. Best regards, Director Indian Mountaineering Foundation
  • 3. Application: Booking of Peak Expedition Details Remarks 1. Name of the Peak and Altitude (Co-ordinates) Alternate Peak and Altitude (Co-ordinates) (In case the peak is not available for booking) 2. Route chart Attach Map/Sketch 3. Itinerary with Dates Attach 4. Leaders Particulars Write in Part A 5. Team Members Particulars Write in Part B 6. Insurance Cover obtained? (Please refer to Para 6&7 of Part ‘C’) Yes/No 7. Handling Agency hired 8. Doctor/Paramedic in Team Yes/No
  • 4. PART A: Particulars of Leader Passport size photograph 1. Name 2. Address 3. Contact No. and Email ID 4. Date of Birth 5. Occupation 6. Name, relation, contact details of next of kin(NOK) 7. Mountaineering Courses 8. Climbing record: Peak Year Highest point reached
  • 5. PART B: Particulars of Team Members Passport size photograph 1. Name 2. Address 3. Contact No. and Email ID 4. Date of Birth 5. Occupation 6. Name, relation, contact details of next of kin(NOK) 7. Mountaineering Courses 8. Climbing record: Peak Year Highest point reached
  • 6. Part C:Undertaking by Expedition Leader I hereby undertake that: 1. Each member is participating in this activity voluntarily and at his/her own risk. IMF would not be held responsible on any account, whatsoever, either by the organizers or the participants. 2. I have read and understood the Environment & Safety Guidelines and Additional information for the leader and the same have been made known to each member of the expedition. 3. Expedition report will be submitted to IMF (AS per Annexure D), within 2 months from the date of first summit attempt by the expedition. 4. The team will use quality equipment during the expedition which fulfills the UIAA Safety norms. 5. All members will be covered by insurance policy with a clause, that in case of any ground/air rescue the cost of evacuation as demanded by evacuation agency/Indian Air Force will be paid by Insurance Company directly to them under intimation to IMF. 6. Support Staff is insured for minimum of Rs. 5 lakhs each. 7. All members of the expedition have read and understood the instructions contained in this Brochure and agree to abide by them. Place: (Signature of leader) Name Date:
  • 7. Annexure A: Environment Guidelines Annexure A: Environment Guidelines The Indian Mountaineering Foundation has established guidelines with a view to ensure that the Indian Himalaya is maintained well. It is imperative that expeditions do not find mountaineering gear and garbage at base camp and on the mountain, left by earlier expeditions. The IMF has laid down general and specific instructions for garbage and equipment management by an expedition. General Instructions for Garbage Management:  All members as well as the support staff must be thoroughly briefed and trained adequately for them to be able to differentiate between Biodegradable and Non- biodegradable waste and its mode of disposal.  At altitudes in excess of the snow line, natural decomposition processes are slowed, thus the waste pollutes the mountain for many years. It should be a conscious effort to leave the camp-sites and trails cleaner than they were found. Specific instructions related to Disposal of Waste on the Mountain: Bio-degradable waste is a type of waste that can be broken down into its base compounds by micro-organisms, air, moisture or soil in a reasonable amount of time. It includes green waste, food, paper, bio-degradable plastics, human waste etc. Bio-degradable waste is to be suitably disposed only below the snow line.   At Base Camp a deep Toilet hole must be dug in soil and all human excretion produced must be dumped in it during the teams stay.    Bio-degradable kitchen waste has to be deposited in a deep hole at base camp which is to be covered at the end of the expedition.
  • 8. Annexure A- Continued Non-biodegradable waste is a type of waste that cannot be broken down into its base compounds by micro-organisms, air, moisture or soil. Unlike biodegradable waste, non- biodegradable waste remains stable indefinitely. Because non-biodegradable waste cannot be broken down, recycling is the only option. Non-biodegradable waste includes rubber, Styrofoam, plastic, glass, metals etc.  Non-biodegradable waste is to be:  Collected in sacks and carried down from the camps to the road head.  Disposed at or below the road head.  Must be disposed by submission to vendors and other local garbage collectors in the area or as directed by local authorities. Specific instructions related to Mountaineering Equipment:  All ropes and technical climbing equipment must be retrieved and carried back except in the cases where safety is likely to be compromised. Non compliance of this instruction must be supported by reasons in the expedition report.  All tents, bivouac material and other permanent camp stores should not be left behind on the mountain. Instructions for Compliance of Environment Guidelines:  Photo Evidence – pertaining to garbage disposal and equipment retrieval must be included in the expedition report.  Teams observing noncompliance of IMF guidelines by earlier expeditions are requested to present photographic evidence to IMF.  IMF representatives are being deployed to conduct random checks on expeditions on the mountains and collect evidence of any violations of IMF guidelines.
  • 9. Annexure B: Safety Guidelines Disclaimer: Safety advisory section as stated below is not intended to contain comprehensive material but rather serve asimportant basic points which have evolved over the years from previous expeditions. Subject Advisory Details Planning Choice of the climbing objective must be a function of expertise, experience, technical competence and fitness of the team as a whole. Insurance Additional clause for altitude and exposure related physiological conditions (Frost Bite, Hypothermia, HAPE,and HACEetc.) should preferably be included in the scope of insurance or covered through a separate ‘Medi claim’ policy. Gear Check Use quality gears particularly the high dependence items such as: ropes (inspection, palpation and aging), runners and slings, carabiners, harness and helmets. It is recommended that safety helmets and inter camp communication equipment Is carried and used by team members. Medical Experience The team leader should obtain a medical fitness certificate for undertaking the expedition from each member. The team should preferably include a doctor or paramedic. Medical Courses Expedition Leader and Member’s are advised to participate in Training program titled - Emergency Responder -First Aid for Wilderness. Program schedule is available on IMF website. Weather Do a pre-climb mountain weather check but remember to do a day-to-day corroboration with visual inspection as Himalaya are notorious for sudden development of un-expected severe micro weather systems and also consult a local guide .
  • 10. AnnexureC: Additional Information for Leader 1. Qualifications for Leader: Should be above 25 years of age and qualified inadvance mountaineering course from a recognized Institute. Should have participated in at least two expeditions to peaks above 6,400m and reached the summit of at least one peak above 6,400m. 2. Qualifications & Composition of Team: The team should have adequate number of members qualified on advance mountaineering courses with experience of expeditions. Up to two members with high altitude trekking, rock climbing and related experience, may be included. The team finally selected should be capable of dealing with all possible contingencies. 3. Equipment Hiring from IMF: Equipment would be available for hire against security deposit and would be subject toavailability. 4. Boarding/Lodging at IMF: Dormitory for 30 persons is available at IMF on first-come first- serve basis. 5. Working hours at IMF: 10am to 5pm from Monday to Saturday except - holidays and secondSaturdays. 6. Booking of Peaks: Would be done on first come first serve basis. A delay in submission of applicationand documents could result in cancellation of the provisional booking of the peak. 7. Duration of Expedition: Peak(s) bookings are valid for 30 to 45 days from Base Camp to Base Camp. The permit will be granted for the same duration to maximum up to 30 to 35 climbing members. The mountains attracting more climbers than above will be given climbing permit with the gap of 10 days. The team members should be educated and be prepared to attempt the mountain alongside other expeditions. 8. Report and certificate: The IMF will issue the “Climb Certificate” only after the receipt of expedition report. Prior to the issue of “Climb Certificate”, IMF may review the report through IMF Expedition Report Verification Committee. In case of any irregularity in the report, suitable regulatory action will be taken against the expedition. 9. Member in a Team: All expeditions, including joint expeditions, will have a maximum twelve and minimum two climbing members. Expeditions will not be allowed to take trekking parties, film crews or others as additional members.
  • 11. 10. Any member of an expedition/tour operators (if expedition organized through an agency), found climbing or attempting to climb a peak without permit from IMF or violating the environment protection rules, shall be liable to be debarred from undertaking any mountaineering expedition in India for a period ranging from 02 to 05 years. In addition, they may be dealt with, under the relevant laws. For any accident due to negligence on the mountain, Leader shall be held accountable and debarred from participating in mountaineering expeditions for a period ranging from 02 to 05 years. AnnexureD: Expedition Reporting Guidelines Leader is required to forward Expedition report to IMF within two months of first summit attempt. The guidelines for filling the report are available on IMF website. 1. Route with Itinerary (Beyond and up to base Camp) Attach 2. Summit Attempts (Brief description enclosing photographic proofs) 3. Have you left the mountain clean and brought back all the garbage as per laid down environment guidelines 4. Note on local culture, flora and fauna
  • 12. Annexure E: Grade Assessment Reporting The expeditions are required to articulate the technical difficulties encountered during the expedition as under: Subject Details Name of Mountain Face/ Ridge Attempted Nature of the face e.g. rock, snow, ice, seracs, overhangs etc. Gradient of the route in approximate degrees and description of artificial technical aids used to negotiate difficulty. Technical Difficulty with Grade (refer to grade description)
  • 13. Annexure E: Continued GRADE DESCRIPTION Technical Grades Description Grade 1 Easy approach on rock/ snow/ ice slopes with shallow gradient Grade 2 Rock/ snow/ ice slopes up to 45 degrees where climbing may require anchoring, belaying and or abseiling due to objective hazard Grade 3 Fairly difficult rock/ snow/ ice slopes at an angle between 45 degrees& 60 degrees with considerable exposed face. Needs belaying with safe anchor due to significant objective hazard. Grade 4 Hard more exposed slope at 50-70 degrees angle on longer routes with sustained difficulty. Such a grade poses serious objective hazard. Grade 5 Very hard route with high level of objective hazards on rock/ snow/ ice slopes at an angle between 65 and 80 degrees. Requires various technical safety aids on very long sections of hard climbing. Grade 6 Extremely difficult pitches with exceptional objective hazards, climbing involves vertical rock/ snow/ice slopes using multiple technical aids. Grade 7 Difficulty and danger at their limits. Climb involves negotiating dangerous and maximum exposed overhanging rock/ snow/ ice faces multiple technical aids. . .
  • 14. Annexure F: Incident Reporting 1. All expeditions are expected to report in detail on any incidents which has taken place during the expedition involving members or support staff. Following type of incidents should be reported: a) Climbing Accidents b) Cases of Severe Altitude Sickness c) Animals Attack d) Severe Weather Disturbances e) Avalanches and Landslides 2. Expeditions are requested to share a detailed note with pictures about the incident with IMF. The IMF has established a process to consolidate information on all reported incidents with a view to establish an advisory which will be shared with expeditions which are being planned in the future and also on its website.