Ideas for your next visit

a way of life

*********
www.esmadrid.com

a way of life
Much more than shopping
in the heart of Madrid.
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C A S T E L L A N A M A D R I D S PA I N
MADRID

A way of life
Madrid is a city strongly focused on tourism. Its streets breathe vitality, art and culture, inviting
anyone who visits to arrange plans difficult to imagine in any other Spanish or international
destination. The number of annual visitors to the city now exceeds 8 million. They come to
enjoy this diverse and multi-faceted metropolis whose appeal never ceases to grow thanks to
the drive for excellence within the tourism sector along with the constantly expanding leisure
options and a complete overhaul of the cultural calendar.
The local government is committed to promoting and raising awareness of its cultural heritage
and of the plethora of shopping, culinary, hotel and leisure options Madrid has to offer. This
commitment translates into initiatives such as the publication of this guide, in which you learn
many reasons why this city has become one of the five most visited capital cities in Europe.
The 170 plus pages contained in this guide to promote Madrid reveal the city’s many tourist
attractions, some of which are unique. Its readers will discover that Madrid has a beach, to be
found in Madrid Rio, the new green heart of the city centre, or that each district has its own
identity, and that Madrid has restored several of its major historical cultural locations, such as
CentroCentro, Matadero Madrid and the Conde Duque centre. Other aspects of Madrid you will
discover in this guide include the Art Walk, which never closes; and other facts, such as that
culture is thriving on the streets, manifested in a thousand different ways; that in few places is
it as easy as in this city to find nature forming part of the urban landscape; that it is possible
to sample fine cuisine, either from Spain or from any other corner of the world. Also note that
there are traditional marketplaces and signature state-of-the-art markets where you can call
in for a bite; that the outdoor cafés are not just for summer; that shopping is more convenient
thanks to the pedestrian areas; that it is possible to sleep in palaces, or in charming hotels; or
that Madrid is just a short journey away from many other UN Heritage sites.
The modern, sustainable and leading-edge capital that Madrid has become could not miss
the opportunity to promote its tourist attractions with an innovative guide, like the one you
now have in your hands. This is a practical guide with plans for every month of the year, for
every day of the week and for every hour of the day, to suit everyone’s pocket, taste or mood.
Because this is Madrid: a diverse city which constantly innovates and reinvents itself to delight
and satisfy anyone in search of a different lifestyle.

www.esmadrid.com

003
ART AND CULTU-

ON THE ROOFTOPS
Reach up to the sky
from the terrace of
the Hotel Urban.

004

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a way of life

010 About Madrid
Our tourist information services
are here to help you make the
most of your visit.

015. Highlights
Published by: Madrid Visitors & Convention
Bureau (Madrid MV&CB).
Deputy Mayor's Office.
Madrid City Council.

Chairperson: Miguel Ángel Villanueva.
CEO: Ignacio Fernández. Managing Director:
Mar de Miguel. Head of Tourist Promotion
and Destination Management: Miguel Sanz.
Director of Publications and Content: Carlos
Menéndez Editing: Silvia Roba, Ignacio Vleming,
Isabel Morales, Fernando Pretus, Anne-Lise
Leclerc, Judith Grayland. Marketing: Caroline
Tensi and Verónica Casares. Director of
Business Development: Mercedes Posada.
Production:
La Factoría.
Valentín Beato, 48 – 3ª planta.
28037 Madrid. Tel.No.: 915 386 118
Director of La Factoría: Virginia Lavín.
Assistant director: Javier Olivares. Project
Manager: Ángel L. Esteban. Original design and
Art direction: José Antonio Gutiérrez. Layout
Manager: Pedro Díaz Ayala. Texts: Txema
Ybarra, Anabel Vázquez, Beatriz H. Cembellín,
Francis Pachá, Claudio Martín, Rosana Torres,
Gloria Montero. Print edition: Paola Pérez
(director), Rosa García Villarrubia, Ángel Manzano.
Photography: Luis Rubio, Chus Eto, Alberto
Ortega, Roberto Iván Cano, Adolfo Callejo, Javier
Morán, Ofelia de Pablo, Juan Lafita, Daniel Alea,
Alfredo Arias, Javier Mantrana, AGE FOTOSTOCK,
CORDON PRESS, EFE, EL PAIS, FOTOTECA, GETTY
IMAGES, IBERIMAGE, FIROFOTO Madrid VCB.
Illustrations: Jaime Martínez (main maps p.6-7,
p.40-41, p.134-135), Alberto García (route maps).
Production Director: Francisco Alba.
Printing: Palgraphic.
Legal Deposit: M-48914-2011.
Cover: Royal Palace
Photo: © Paolo Giocoso/SIME/FOTOTECA
The information may have been modified
after this edition went to press. Readers can find updated
information on the website www.esMADRID.com.

12 essentials for 2013, a monthby-month report on the events you
shouldn’t miss this year.

023. 7 days / 7 plans
There are a thousand and one
things to do in Madrid every day
of the week. Check out these
plans we’ve organized to suit your
preferences or mood.

039. Take your pick
Suggestions for all the family in
Madrid’s enchanting districts
and neighbourhoods.
039. ART & CULTURE
Discover the Art Walk, Royal
Madrid, the Golden Age, new
locations, galleries and the major
urban landmarks.
063. FOOD & DRINK
Savour the most traditional
dishes and the latest signature
cuisine; delight in the art of
snacking on tapas washed down
with a glass of wine or beer; and
make the most of the cocktail
trend which is all the rage.
079. SHOPPING
Something for everyone, at

affordable prices, any day of
the week. Wander the streets
of Madrid as you shop to your
heart’s content.
099. FUN & GAMES
By day, in the evening or at night.
Sports, shows and nights that
turn into mornings.
121. AS A FAMILY
The big city takes care of
entertainment for the youngest
members of the family. There
is a whole world waiting to be
discovered.
133. GREEN MADRID
Historical parks, secret gardens,
pedestrian areas and sunsets.
145. GAYFRIENDLY MADRID
Madrid welcomes everyone and
is noted as a global example of
diversity.
153. SLEEPING
A great variety of options for an
unforgettable stay.
161. DAY TRIPS
Short excursions around Madrid
and high-speed getaways by AVE
to major Spanish cities.

167. Services
Access by air, rail and road.
City transport, weather,
opening hours, bank holidays,
accessibility, where to find Wifi
areas and several maps of
Madrid to help you get around
the city as you please.

LG
BT
ART & CULTURE

FOOD & DRINK

SHOPPING

LEISURE

LUXURY

FAMILY

GREEN

LGBT

SLEEPING

DAY TRIPS
54.
CONDE DUQUE

109/138.
PRINCESA
102/122/136.
CASA DE CAMPO
For a day out with
the family, come
and discover Madrid’s
green lung.

Museums, wine bars,
alfresco dining and
trendy shopping
around the former
Barracks.

Shopping, films in their
original language and
tree-lined avenues,
from Moncloa to
Plaza de España.

51/84/106/141.
GRAN VÍA/SOL
Pedestrian areas and
musicals invade the
city centre’s main
shopping street.

44/70/72/116/139.
HAPSBURG
DISTRICT
Relive the history of the
city as you wander the
streets, from Plaza Mayor to the Royal Palace.

57/102/134.
MADRID RÍO
Discover the city's
newest green area
- it's great for walking
and cycling.

65/72/82/116/118.
LA LATINA
The epitome of the art of
the tapa. The little squares
and taverns are always
packed to the brim.
139.
CHAMBERÍ
Small palaces, public
squares, good restaurants and art galleries.
Savour the local life.

56/100.
CASTELLANA
From Colón to the
Cuatro Torres, calling in
at the Bernabéu; this
avenue has it all.

70/72/139/141.
MALASAÑA
You’ll be blown away by
its alternative scene, by
day and night.

49/70/84.
SALESAS

72/80.
SALAMANCA
Shopping around
Serrano is an unmissable experience.

A modernist style and
elegant atmosphere.
Pubs, shopping and
charming streets.

70/72/146
CHUECA
Diversity is the name of
the game in this welcoming neighbourhood which reinvents
itself constantly.

103/122/136.
RETIRO
A green oasis in the
heart of the city. Walk,
cycle or skate around it.

40/154.
THE ART WALK

46/72/84.
LITERARY
QUARTER

69/72/116.
LAVAPIÉS

From Cibeles to Atocha,
the city’s most important museums flank
this beautiful tree-lined
boulevard.

A host of possibilities
suggest themselves
as you walk from
Plaza de Santa Ana
to Calle Huertas.

The most exotic
flavours in this most
traditional of
neighbourhoods. A
multicolor atmosphere.

www.esmadrid.com

07
un estilo de vida
The best of Madrid on your iPad
FREE FROM THE APP STORE*

Whatever your tastes,
this is where you'll find
all the latest in art,
culture, gastronomy,
night life, new venues,
family activities, sport,
LGBT, and much more.
Get ‘guíaMadrid12’
from the App Store.
*Application only available in Spanish.
For the online version in English go to:
www.esmadrid.com/madridguide

8

www.esmadrid.com
TOURIST
INFORMATION
OFFICES
If you're coming to enjoy a few days in
Madrid remember that, as a tourist, you
have a wealth of resources at your fingertips, from information centres and websites
through to a wide range of benefits
and routes for exploring the city.

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES
PLAZA MAYOR TOURIST CENTER
Plaza Mayor, 27
(Casa de la Panadería. Ground Floor)
Tel. 91 454 44 10.
Mon-Sun: 9.30am-8.30pm
turismo@esmadrid.com
The first stop for tourists arriving in Madrid is the central
tourist information office in Plaza Mayor. This modern centre located in Casa de la Panadería has everything you need
to know about the capital's cultural and leisure attractions
and can supply you with all kinds of information. Services
include specialist assistance, ticket sales for the Official
Guided Tours programme, a Remember Madrid point with
information about the various tourist loyalty programmes,
self-service consultation, technology area (audiovisual information, free Internet access, Wifi zone, free downloadable
audioguides, personalised leaflets and virtual map), special
service points providing information in Asian languages and
Russian, as well as a range of accessible services.

COLÓN TOURIST CENTER
Located in a former underground passage between Calle Génova and Calle Goya
Mon-Sun: 9.30am-8.30pm
This tourist office provides the following services: face-

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to-face and specialist assistance, self-service consultation, Remember Madrid (information on tourist loyalty
programmes run by Madrid City Council), technology area
(audiovisual information, free Internet access and Wifi
zone) and a Learn Spanish information point with specific
information for people interested in learning the language.
An outdoor screen in the middle of the street displays a
daily city and cultural calendar.

OTHER INFORMATION POINTS
*Plaza de Cibeles
*Plaza del Callao
*Paseo del Arte (on Calle Santa Isabel, next to the
Reina Sofía Museum).
*Madrid-Barajas Airport: Terminal 2 (arrivals hall) and
Terminal 4 (arrival halls 10 and 11).
SATE
FOREIGN TOURIST
ASSISTANCE SERVICE
Leganitos, 19
Incidents Tel. 902 10 21 12
Mon-Sun: 9am-12 midnight
satemadrid@esmadrid.com
SATE offers foreign tourists visiting the city personalised
assistance in the event of any incident that requires them
to visit a police station. The service is operated by specialist staff. Tourists are given help with reporting the incident
and with completing any other paperwork relating to their
situation. Visitors and their families are also offered counselling if they need it.

LOYALTY PROGRAMMES
Taking part in the loyalty programmes run by Madrid City
Council gives you the chance to discover the city in a different and enjoyable way. When you join the Discover Madrid
Club and take part in the Official Guided Tours programme,
you'll also be eligible to enjoy a series of additional benefits. Snap Madrid gives you two routes for photographing
monuments and suggested locations, and Snap Madrid Río
takes in a series of bridges over the Manzanares River.
Once you've completed them, you get a souvenir of the
city. A tour specially designed for families, Madrid: A Family
Experience, enables parents and children to discover Madrid through educational games and puzzles while they follow three self-guided routes. Visitors who register on the
database will also be kept up to date on all the news and
tourist products that match their profile.

www.esmadrid.com

011
OFFICIAL GUIDED TOURS
All year round and as part of its Official Guided Tours
programme, Madrid City Council runs a wide variety of
sightseeing tours in different languages (Spanish, English,
French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Japanese and Dutch).
You can choose from:
*Routes by bike
*Family tours and storytellers
*Unmissable:
-Essential Madrid I: Hapsburg and La Latina
-Essential Madrid II: Cervantes and the Literary Quarter
-Essential Madrid III: El Retiro and the Art Walk
*Specially adapted tours for people with physical, sensory
or intellectual disabilities

Whenever you see this
stamp in the magazine, it means there
is a guided tour that
passes the exact spot
mentioned on that
page.

Find out more about the Official Guided Tours programme, prices and sales points on:
www.esmadrid.com/officialguidedtours

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www.esmadrid.com

ESMADRIDMAGAZINE
A free monthly publication in Spanish and English, featuring the highlights from the month's cultural calendar, plus
interviews and reports on Madrid's temporary and permanent entertainment options. You can pick up a copy of the
magazine at any of the city's tourist centres and information points, as well as in leading hotels, restaurants, shops
and cultural centres. It is also available for download from

www.esmadrid.com/en/esmadridmagazine
MADRID CITY TOUR
Madrid City Tour is probably one of the simplest and most
comfortable ways of getting a feel for the city. All you have
to do is buy a ticket, hop on the bus, put your headphones
on to listen to the audioguide, sit back and enjoy the
streets, monuments and places of interest, with the advantage that you can hop off wherever you feel like it. Tickets
are valid for one or two days, depending on your chosen
rate, and you can get on and off the bus as many times
as you like along route one, route two or both. Madrid City
Tour has audioguides in 14 languages (Spanish, English,
French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Russian, Japanese,
Dutch, Chinese, Arabic, Catalan, Basque and Galician)

Tel. 902 02 47 58 (24 h)
Times: March-October: 9am-10pm
November-February: 10am-6pm
Ticket sales: buses, hotels, travel agencies, MCT
Information Centre (Calle Felipe IV, next to the Prado
Museum) and on www.madridcitytour.es
More information and prices:
www.esmadrid.com/en/madridcitytour

Sol. The final stretch rejoins Paseo del Prado and takes
you to the Botanical Gardens, then on to the Reina Sofía
and Thyssen-Bornemisza museums. The extended version
of this route, which runs twice a day (4.40pm and 8.40pm),
goes to Madrid Río and the Moncloa area.

ROUTE TWO
The second Madrid City Tour option starts at the same
place, next to the Prado Museum, but in this case it travels
along the city's main arteries, Castellana, Prado and Recoletos, and through neighbouring streets. One of the most
spectacular buildings lining this route is Cibeles Palace, but
there are other striking landmarks in the Castellana area
as well, such as Marqués de Salamanca Palace, Nuevos
Ministerios, the AZCA shopping centre and the Santiago
Bernabéu football stadium. The bus also passes through
the Salamanca district, with its designer boutiques and
the Lázaro Galdiano Museum. Finally, the route takes in
Puerta del Sol and the Spanish parliament building, Congreso de los Diputados, before arriving at the last stop in
Plaza de Neptuno. This second route also operates an extended version twice a day (4.50pm and 8.50pm), which
includes these sights plus the new Cuatro Torres Business
Area, with the city's tallest buildings, before returning via
Las Ventas bullring.

WWW.ESMADRID.COM
Madrid City Council's website is packed with everything
you need to know about tourism, leisure and business in
the city. This essential guide offers detailed information
about services, monuments, museums and other must-visit
places, together with a comprehensive tourist information
database (hotels, restaurants, shops, etc.) and a calendar
of cultural events taking place in Madrid (exhibitions, theatre, sport and much more).

ROUTE ONE
Calle Felipe IV, next to the Prado Museum, is the starting
point for this route that takes you to Puerta de Alcalá, followed by the Prado-Recoletos artery, the location of the
Neptuno and Cibeles fountains, before continuing up Gran
Vía. The bus travels along this main thoroughfare towards
Plaza de España, passing in front of the Temple of Debod,
until it reaches the old part of the city, where you'll discover
the Royal Palace, La Almudena Cathedral and Puerta del

www.esmadrid.com

013
MADRIDSHOP
Plaza Mayor, 27
Tel. 91 541 01 85
Mon-Sun: 9.30am-8.30pm
MadridShop is the city's official store. Inside, it is designed
to represent and promote Madrid life and place it within
visitors' reach. The shop interior features recycled, sustainable and energy-saving materials that are environmentally-friendly and is completely accessible to people with
reduced mobility. You can find the perfect memento of your
trip here: music, books, audiovisual items and much more.
This is also the place to get your MadridCard, the essential
city pass.

MADRIDCARD
Have the city at your fingertips with MadridCard.
The key to discovering secrets of the city. This sightseeing pass enables you to make your way around Ma-

014

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drid easily, enjoyably and with minimum fuss. For a very
reasonable price, it entitles you to discounts in shops
and restaurants, on the Essential Madrid tour in the Official Guided Tours programme, and on entry fees to
over 50 museums. You also get preferential entry to the
Prado and Reina Sofía museums, the Royal Palace, the
Bernabéu Tour and the Wax Museum, which saves you
having to queue. Along with this tourist card, you get a
guide in Spanish, English, Italian, German and French
with a map of the city and everything you need to know
about MadridCard partner museums, services and establishments (restaurants, cafés and shops). Depending
on the fee you choose to pay, MadridCard can be used
for 24, 48, 72 or 120 hours. Special children’s prices
available. You can buy MadridCard in the MadridShop,
located inside the Plaza Mayor tourist office, and on
the Internet.
See more information on www.madridcard.com.
WHAT'S ON
16-21
IT'S OFFICIAL: YOU SIMPLY
CAN'T GET BORED IN
MADRID YOU'LL ALWAYS
HAVE THE BEST CHOICE OF
THINGS TO DO IN YOUR SPARE
TIME: ART, THEATRE, MUSIC,
SCIENCE, SPORT, SHOPPING
AND MUCH, MUCH MORE.
HERE ARE 12 EXAMPLES
OF WHAT YOU COULD BE
DOING IN 2013.
Highlights
GET OUT YOUR DIARY AND MAKE A NOTE: MADRID OFFERS
YOU AN UNMISSABLE EVENT FOR EVERY MONTH OF THE
YEAR. YOU'LL FIND ALL KINDS OF THINGS, FROM CULTURE
AND SPORT THROUGH TO FOOD AND DRINK.

>>>>>>

KEEP UP WITH IT ALL ON www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid

ANUARY
Quick, the sales are on!
When the Christmas lights are switched
off and the city seems to go into winter hibernation, along come the sales to liven up
the streets again (sometimes even earlier).
At this time of year everyone flocks to the
shops in Gran Vía, Serrano and Salesas
(page 80), a ritual that is repeated with
the arrival of summer and the change of

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season. You'll also find attractive discounts
all year round in outlet centres such as Las
Rozas Village (page 92) and in themed
street markets.
>WHEN: From

7 January.

>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS THEM: You'll

best prices on the best products.

get the
EBRUARY
Passion for collecting
at ARCOmadrid
This year, Spain's largest contemporary
art fair is expected to attract 200 galleries and 3,000 artists from all over the
world, offering a tour of the latest art
trends. Now's the time to make a start on
your own collection.
>WHEN: From

13 to 17 February.

>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: Amazing

art
coupled with some fantastic activities.

ARCH
The Real opera house
hits the high notes
As they do every season, the Teatro Real opera
house is organising a full operatic programme
that this year includes a performance of Les
pêcheurs de perles (The Pearl Fishers), one of
Bizet’s most exotic operas. Famous tenor Juan
Diego Flórez will be singing the role of Nadir,
a fisherman passionately in love. This three-act
opera is conducted by Daniel Oren. Mozart’s
Don Giovanni is due to be staged in April.
>WHEN: 25,

28 and 31 March.

>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The

quality of
the show and the grandeur of the stage.

www.esmadrid.com

017
PRIL
The pace picks up at
the Madrid Marathon
Commonly known as Mapoma, this year the
race is part of the Rock 'n' Roll Marathon
Series, the world's biggest city running circuit. Are you up for it? There will be live
music on over 20 stages, plus a finish line
concert.
>WHEN: 28

April.

>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It

will be an
entertainment-packed route, with music
and performances.

AY
Tennis aces
Since 2009, the Mutua Madrid Open has
been the fiſth Masters 1000 event of
the year. Winners of last year’s tournament were Roger Federer and Serena
Williams; in 2011 victory went to Novak
Djokovic and Petra Kvitova, and in 2010
the event was won by Rafael Nadal and
Aravane Rezai. Tickets on sale at www.
madrid-open.com
>WHEN: From

3 to 12 May.

>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It's

one of the key
tournaments on the ATP calendar.

018

www.esmadrid.com
UNE
The focus is on
PHotoEspaña
In partnership with museums, art galleries
and other cultural centres, this ambitious festival shows audiovisual work from all over
the world, combining daring and quality in a
heartfelt tribute to photography. You have
two months to see it.
>WHEN: 5

June to 28 July.

>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The

whole city is a
showcase for the work of top photographers.

ULY
The great Gay
Pride march
Every year the LGBT Pride festival draws hundreds of thousands of people to the city.
A huge party at which everyone is welcome, it
comes packed with opening speeches, live concerts and lots more. The most eagerly-awaited
event is the Gay Pride parade, which runs along
Calle Alcalá and Gran Vía (page 147).
>WHEN: From

3 to 7 July.

>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The last two years

have been billed as the best gay event in the world.

www.esmadrid.com

019
UGUST
Veranos de la Villa festival
Over its 31 years of existence, the Veranos
de la Villa festival has become an essential
date on Madrid's cultural calendar during
the hot summer months, with a series of openair evening performances bringing a welcome
breath of fresh air.
>WHEN: June-August.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: You'll get the chance
to see star performers in unique settings.

EPTEMBER
'Deco' festival
The Literary Quarter puts on its finery
for a few days in September. Streets and
shops dress up to celebrate DecorAcción,
an event focusing on art and decoration
characterised by urban intervention.
Shop windows move out onto the street
and make their mark in a brilliant Antiques
Market.
>WHEN: September.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: You can find some
really unusual decorative items.

020

www.esmadrid.com
CTOBER
Architecture Week
Guided tours of buildings, exhibitions and workshops are just a few
of the activities on offer during Architecture Week, when you can get
a feel for Madrid's built heritage (page 51). Equally interesting are
the talks and lectures taking place during the event, given by leading
international architects.
>WHEN: October.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It's

a great chance to discover hidden gems.

ECEMBER
It's Christmas
time
When December rolls around, Christmas traditions envelop the streets and many take on a modern look.
Watch bright lights coming on at dusk, smell the aroma of roasted chestnuts waſting through the air and
join the bustling shopping centres full of people on the
lookout for the best giſts, as Madrid pulls out all the
stops for the merriest time of the year (page 132).

OVEMBER
Madrid gets jazz fever

>WHEN: Until

6 January.

>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: Its

old spirit lives on.

Open your ears to all kinds of sounds, from bebop to
Latin beats. The Madrid International Jazz Festival is a
journey through music across the globe, from north to south,
east to west, featuring live performances by big-name
artists on the various stages spread over the whole city.
>WHEN: November.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The

programme includes

some great virtuosos.

www.esmadrid.com

021
_

TRADE FAIRS AND CONGRESSES
7 PLANS
24-37
ITINERARIES TO
MATCH YOUR MOOD.
FOR SUNNY OR GREY
DAYS, WHETHER YOU
WAKE UP CRAVING SOME
CLEAN AIR, WITH AN
URGE TO GO SHOPPING OR
TO HAVE FUN WITH YOUR
CHILDREN. HERE ARE
SOME IDEAS TO SUIT
EVERYONE’S TASTE.
7

Plan your day to suit your mood

IF YOU WAKE UP TO BLUE SKIES
IT’S A KNOWN FACT THAT THE LIGHT IN MADRID IS SPECTACULAR. ADMIRE THE
COLOURS OF EL RETIRO, DISCOVER THE PASEO DEL PRADO, TAKE A CULTU
RAL STROLL THROUGH THE CITY’S STREETS AND ENJOY A SPECTACULAR SUNSET.

Greenery

01

01. Oxygen in El Retiro
Wake up at your own pace
 
A day that begins under the trees in
El Retiro can not end too badly. Roam
around this enormous park at your leisure. If
you enjoy walking, why not ramble along its
paths? If you prefer running, jog along the
track around the park. If skating’s your thing,
the Paseo de Coches is the place for you. An
hour in the park will provide you with enough
oxygen and endorphins for the rest of the week.

Art

02. A morning at the Reina
Sofía and the Prado
Half morning visits
 
Both museums are open on Mondays. The pioneer was the Reina Sofia.
Of course, you can visit Picasso’s Guernica
on permanent display here, but also check
out its programme of temporary exhibitions.
Find some time to spend in La Central, one of
Madrid’s finest bookshops. It’s always a good
idea to add a visit to the Prado to your Monday
schedule, an ideal day for peacefully browsing through its vast exhibition rooms.

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02
Gastromoment

03. Curry or ginger?
Multicultural ingredients
. 
All this culture can make you hungry.
You can satisfy it very close by in
Lavapiés, where you will find some
of Madrid’s best ethnic restaurants.
Along Calle Ave María is a variety of Thai,
Indian and Lebanese restaurants, all as
affordable as they are delicious.

More culture

04. Aſternoon in the
Mapfre centre
Visit, observe and tell
everyone about it
 
Take a stroll from Lavapiés to
Recoletos. Walk along the Paseo del
Prado to burn off your lunch until you reach
your destination: the nineteenth century
palace, home to the Mapfre Foundation. This
intimate venue organises some extraordinary temporary exhibitions. Monday is
the quietest day. If you happen to be visiting
an exhibition at this time of the aſternoon,
you are certainly doing something right.

03

Tapas time

05. An evening in
Las Salesas
A trendy sunset
 
If your task of the day has been to
become inspired by the city, it is now
time to rest. The streets around the Salesas
neighbourhood are a meeting place, as
evening draws in, for designers, journalists
and local residents. On practically every corner you will find a place to enjoy a cocktail,
sip a wine from Madrid or nibble on a
slice of Spanish omelette, which every bar
claims to make better than anyone else.

04

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WALKING IN THE RAIN
MADRID BOASTS MANY DAYS OF SUNLIGHT DURING THE
YEAR, BUT IF YOU ARE CAUGHT OUT IN THE RAIN, THIS ISN’T
A PROBLEM SINCE THERE ARE A PLETHORA OF OPTIONS TO
MAKE YOUR DAY JUST AS BRIGHT.

01

Important

01. Buy yourself
an umbrella
And make it a stylish one
 
Casa de Diego, in Puerta del Sol, has
been selling the finest umbrellas since
1858, like the ones Mary Poppins used, in
addition to shawls, fans and castanets.

Shopping

03

02. Strolling along
Preciados
Free from the disturbance
of traffic
. 
This is the most traditional shopping
street in Madrid, pedestrianised for
hassle-free window shopping, which is
much appreciated, especially on rainy days. Seek
refuge in any of the nearby department stores.

Snacking

03. San Miguel market
Gourmet tastings
 
An open-plan covered market, and an
emblem of culinary delights since
its recent restoration. Here you will find
oyster stalls, cheese counters and sweet sellers.

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After lunch

04. Fine Arts Circle
Goldfish Bowl
A city centre vantage
point

04

05

. 
The storm is brewing. Watch the
hustle and bustle of the Calle
Alcalá, through the immense windows
of the long-established coffee house
at the Fine Arts Circle. The coming and
going of vehicles and passers-by is a
sight worth seeing. Take the opportunity
to visit some of the interesting art and
photographic exhibitions programmed throughout the year.

Theatre

05. Drama and comedy
Madrid takes the stage
 
Classics and contemporary plays,
laughter and tears, performance art
and musicals, stand-up comics and international shows; all the great names in
acting make an appearance on the stage
of Madrid’s theatres. The bigger theatres
usually have more seats available on
week days; take the opportunity to book
your seat and enjoy the show.

www.esmadrid.com

027
7
TODAY YOU ARE FEELING GREEN
FOLLOWING IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF MADRID RIO YOU CAN VISIT
UP TO SEVEN PARKS, EACH ONE OFFERING A WORLD TO DISCO
VER, A FAMILY DAY OUT OR A GREAT CYCLING EXPERIENCE.

Breakfast

01. Neighbourhood spirit
Arganzuela Park
 
Start the day in any of the cafés
that flank the park’s entrance while
contemplating the city as it awakes before your stroll or bicycle ride.

Science

02. A 3D Universe
Tierno Galván Park
. 
If you continue along the leſt bank
of the Manzanares River you will see
the Planetarium and the dome of the
Imax, where spectacular 3D documentaries are shown in its morning sessions.

With a view

03. Picnic on the peak
Linear Park of the
Manzanares River
 
In addition to its fantastic cycle
track, it offers splendid views over
the city. We suggest you stop for a picnic
under the shade of the Lady of the
Manzanares by Manolo Valdés.

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01
03
Sport

04. Ballcourts, climbing
wall and skates
Matadero Park
 
To burn off your lunch, make your
way to the Legazpi district, the
perfect place for sports enthusiasts
to practice any kind of activities,
from cycling and skate boarding to rock
climbing. Matadero (pg 48) is a mustvisit for art and culture lovers.

04
05
05

Patron Saint

05. Visit the shrine
Pradera de San Isidro
. 
If you visit during the festival
period (May) you can witness the
most quintessential side of the city. If not,
the shrine, a perennial icon of popular
tradition, is an agreeable and peaceful
place. One of its curiosities is that is offers
a Mozarabic mass on Sundays at midday
and on Tuesdays at 5.30 pm.

For dining out

06. A memorable evening
Casa de Campo Park
. 
Not many people know this,
but in Madrid’s immense country
park there is also a Culinary Route,
with top class restaurants to suit
everyone’s pocket.

Drinks

07

07. The origins of Madrid
Atenas Park
 
Just by Puente de Segovia, and
at the foot of the Arabic wall, its
famous outdoor café is a popular haunt
in summer when the sun goes down. In
winter, you could opt for one of the cafés
or bars in the nearby Vistillas or on
Cuesta de la Vega.

www.esmadrid.com

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7
INCORRIGIBLE URBANITES
IN MADRID, IN ANY STREET IN THE CITY CENTRE YOU WILL
FIND THE LATEST TRENDS, AND ON ANY NIGHT THERE ARE
PLENTY OF PEOPLE AROUND TO GUARANTEE A GOOD
TIME. A TIP: GO OUT ON THE TOWN ON THURSDAYS.

01

02

With a view

01.A breakfast for champions
Plaza de la Independencia
 
A slice of toasted baguette with
tomato and olive oil, accompanied by
coffee or tea will provide you with the energy you
need for the day. Or, if you prefer, croissants and
madeleines. You can breakfast outdoors, by the
gates of the Retiro, while watching the world
go by at the Puerta de Alcalá.

Shopping

03

02. Find the latest styles
On the hunt for up-to-theminute trends
. 
Before going out for the evening, make
your way to the districts where
fashion is always one step ahead. Men
will love Conde Duque, the girls will fall for
Salesas, and the fashionistas will be delighted
by the streets around Triball.

Lunch

03. Menu of the day
Home-cooking
 
Succulent food at an affordable fixed
price. This is the best way to sample homecooked food in the eateries of the neighbourhoods
of Chamberí, Lavapiés and Chueca.

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Decotour

04. Centuries of history
are watching over us
Rediscover the Literary
Quarter
 
This district has been spectacularly
revamped. Without losing sight of its
04
artisan and popular traditional ambience, it is now home to numerous home décor
05
and antiquarian establishments where
05
you might wish to treat yourself to some
shopping. An ideal setting for an aſternoon
stroll, with a break for a bite to eat in any of
the district’s cafés.

Art

05. Gallery openings
The first in line
 
Thursday is oſten the day for inaugurating new exhibitions. Take the
opportunity to visit one of the city’s best art
galleries. Check out the city’s events calendar
at www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid

06

Gastrobars

06. The ‘aſterwork’ trend
Shall we go for a drink?
 
This is the starting point for sharing
some light refreshments with
friends aſter finishing work. A few beers to
start off the evening, to wash down the tapas,
continuing with a couple of glasses of wine
and finishing off with a tantalizing cocktail.

www.esmadrid.com

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7
FOR INCURABLE HEDONISTS

IN THE MORNING, ART; BEFORE LUNCH, AN APPETIZER; AT MIDDAY,
A FINE RESTAURANT; TO UNWIND, A SPA; IN THE EVENING, A
SHOW AND A FEW DRINKS. WHAT MORE COULD YOU ASK FOR?

01

An art-filled morning

360 degrees

01. Every possible style
Paseo del Prado

02. A high rise view
Cibeles Palace

 

M
Having seen the treasures of the Art
Walk inside the museums, now is the
time to take a global view from outside.
There is no better place for this than from
the vantage point of the roof of the
CentroCentro, from where you can admire
spectacular panoramic views over Madrid.

Start the day with a coffee on any of the outdoor cafés
at the end of Calle Huertas. From here you are just a
few short steps away from the best museums in Madrid. To the
right is the CaixaForum with its vertical garden; a little further
along is the Reina Sofía museum. To the leſt is the Thyssen
museum. And just opposite, the Prado. All museums offer
guided visits and educational programmes for children.

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At the table

03. Table service
Salamanca district

04

. 
On the streets crisscrossing the Goya,
Velázquez and Serrano districts, it is
possible to eat at some of the best restaurants in Madrid. From the creations of
prize-winning chefs boasting Michelin stars to
the best seasonal cuisine.

Relax

04. Pamper yourself
Wellbeing for your body
 
To restore your energy before going
out on the town, many of Madrid’s top
hotels offer spa and massage services.
Alternatively, you could visit one of the many
sports centres and gyms open to the public.

Theatre

05

05. Curtains up
Classics, comedy and
musicals
. 
All eyes all on the Madrid stage, which
has become a great cultural attraction,
with a varied programme featuring top international shows and famed actors.

“Movida”

06. The youngest
itinerary
From Chueca to Malasaña

06

 
Most of Madrid’s nightlife is concentrated
in these two districts. In the first you can
experience a laid-back LGTB ambience.
Malasaña is just around the corner and has lost
none of its appeal to the alternative crowd
with a recent face-liſt and a great selection of
nightclubs catering for every musical taste.

www.esmadrid.com

033
7
NOT WITHOUT MY CHILDREN
MADRID IS A CELEBRATION, WHETHER YOU ARE 5 YEARS OLD OR
50. USE THE KIDS AS AN EXCUSE TO RIDE ON ALL KINDS OF AT
TRACTIONS OR TO ASK RONALDO FOR HIS AUTOGRAPH.

02

Greenery and zoo
Boating

01. Morning leisure time
Casa de Campo
 
Any excuse is a good excuse to visit the
Casa de Campo: spend a morning wandering through the trees, test your fitness on the
exercise apparatus, pedal along the cycling
routes, row a boat on the lake or visit the
animals at the zoo. Thematic fairs and sports
competitions are frequently held here.

Appetizer

02. All aboard the Cable Car
Paseo de Rosales
03

M
Take the opportunity to cross the Manzanares on board the hanging cabins which
take you to the Parque del Oeste, another of
Madrid’s vast green spaces, with bars and outdoor tables, a perfect place for a snack while
you watch the children play.

Refreshment

03. À la carte or at the bar
San Anton Market
 
Now is the time to hop on the Metro to
Chueca.This is the latest market to have
opened and already it is a hit with the public
with its varied food stalls, its contemporary
design and fabulous atmosphere. Do not forget
to visit the outdoor café on the roof.

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Castellana

04. An aſternoon
with idols
There’s something for
everyone
. 
Accompany the children on a visit to
the Wax Museum in Colón and end
the aſternoon with a walk up the Castellana
(or take the bus if you prefer) to the Santiago Bernabeu stadium, football’s maximum
exponent. If there isn’t a match on, you can
always see the pitch from inside the stadium
and the trophy room.

Shopping

05. Open on bank holidays
Madrid never closes
 
Begin by updating your kit in the Real
Madrid shop and then head off to the
children’s clothes shops in the Salamanca
district, also open on Sundays (as is the
rest of the city centre). Madrid residents
say this is the best day to go shopping.
04

Before going to bed

06. Hot chocolate with
'churros'
Irresistible
 
Aſter such a busy day you need to
restore your energy. The San Ginés
hot chocolate bar close to Sol is legendary, and not to be missed. In the aſternoon it has a family atmosphere while at
night it is a required stop for nighthawks,
as it is open until dawn.

06

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035
7
A PERFECT SUNDAY
FOLLOW THE EXAMPLE SET BY MADRID’S INHABITANTS
WHO TRADITIONALLY SPEND THEIR FREE DAYS WITH THEIR
FRIENDS AND FAMILY. A RECENT DEVELOPMENT IS STORES IN
CENTRAL DISTRICTS OPENING ON SUNDAYS.
Shopping

Breakfast

01. Sniff out a bargain
at the Rastro
A thousand and one
curiosities

02. A full brunch
Everything you could
wish for

 
Plaza de Cascorro and Calle
Ribera de Curtidores are covered
with hundreds of stalls from this traditional flea market, where, if you search long
enough, you can find practically anything.
01

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. 
What began as a habit introduced
by international visitors only catered
for by the top class hotels, has now
spread throughout the whole city.
Café Oliver boast of being the first to
serve brunch.
A walk

03. Meandering through
the streets
A medieval walk
 

03

As well as being an essential place for
tapas, the maze of streets of La Latina is ideal for a leisurely walk to discover
the medieval atmosphere of its hidden squares, such as Plaza de San Andrés, and its
narrow streets such as Cava Baja.

After lunch

04. A steaming cup
of coffee
Walls steeped in history
. 
Around Calle Segovia you will come
across old-time cafés that invite
you to stop and chat with friends or
cast a glance over the Sunday papers.
Remember that many news kiosks open only
on Sunday mornings.

Arenal
04

06

05. Sunday shopping
Open just for you
. 
Around Plaza Mayor the streets are
bustling with a festive and family atmosphere. But not only here. Shops and businesses
in the centre of Madrid are allowed to open as
they would any other day of the week.

Cinema

06. Latest film releases
In their original language
 
In Madrid, subtitled films continue to
thrive. Many of the OV cinemas are
located around Plaza de los Cubos, close
to Plaza de España. In the area there are a
few excellent bars where you can enjoy some
international tapas aſter the film.

www.esmadrid.com

037
+34 914 364 340

2
ART &CULTURE
40-61
4043 THE ART WALK
4447 HISTORIC NEIGHBOURHOODS
4849 GALLERY ROUTE
5057 NEW SPACES
5859 WHAT'S ON
6061 INTERVIEW
Elena Ochoa
THE ART WALK

Almost 3 km of museums and exhibitions

ALTERNATIVE SPACES
SUCH AS LA CASA ENCENDIDA,
THE REINA SOFÍA AND
CAIXAFORUM, CLASSICS
INCLUDING THE PRADO AND
THE THYSSEN, AND PRIVATE
INSTITUTIONS LIKE THE
MAPFRE FOUNDATION… WEAR
COMFORTABLE SHOES!

THE ESSENTIAL ROUTE for art lovers
If you haven't stood before Las Meninas,
you haven't been to Madrid. This might
sound a little over the top, but the Prado Museum and the room within which the public
can contemplate this extraordinary painting
represent one of the corners of Madrid that
visitors can least afford to miss out on. The

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Prado embodies the spirit of Madrid: regal yet
open, local yet universal, vast and yet built on a
human scale, solid yet constantly moving. This
museum forms part of the so-called Art Walk,
a route covering almost three kilometres from
the National Library in Plaza de Colón to La
Casa Encendida in the Embajadores district.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL
MUSEUM
    
 , 
     
,    
   -
,  
  .
FROM COLÓN TO EMBAJADORES
The route encompasses a string of emblematic art institutions, including the ThyssenBornemisza Museum, CaixaForum and
the Reina Sofía Museum. Each has its own
personality: the Thyssen boasts an outstanding permanent collection of more than a thousand works dating from the 18th century to
the end of the 20th; CaixaForum surprises
visitors with its temporary exhibitions cover-

ing all artistic disciplines without exceptions
and "El Reina", as the locals call it, has focused
on purely avant-garde movements for the last
twenty years. And there's more besides. Other
must-visits include the Mapfre Foundation,
the Casa de América and the new CentroCentro, located near Plaza de Cibeles.

www.esmadrid.com/en/art-walk-madrid

www.esmadrid.com

041
OPEN!

   
   ,
   
   
' 
  
  
.

THE THREE BIG ONES: PRADO, THYSSEN & REINA SOFÍA
Three museums, three different personalities. The
Prado, designed by Juan de Villanueva and extended by Rafael Moneo, is one of the world's most
prestigious art galleries. Alongside Las Meninas by Velázquez and The Third of May 1808 by
Goya, its rooms also house various masterpieces
of the Spanish, Italian and Flemish schools.
The Thyssen-Bornemisza brings together
vast exhibitions and a powerful, unique
painting collection. It displays some of the
best works from the 18th to the 20th centuries, filling in the gaps not covered by its fellow galleries on the Art Walk such as Fauvism
and German Expressionism. They really know
how to organise blockbusters: this year it has
a definite date with Pisarro. The Reina Sofía

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embraces all minority movements. The reorganisation of the permanent collection and
the museum's exhibition programme has a
strong avant-garde message: Madrid's audiences have daring tastes.
MORE THAN JUST EXHIBITIONS
Something is always happening at these three
museums. The Prado is an excellent place to have
breakfast or buy a giſt. The Reina Sofía boasts one
of the best bookshops in the city, La Central, and
the Thyssen's patios and conference programme
represent one of Madrid's luxuries.
OSCAR MARINÉ
Designer,
illustrator, artist

A space you recommend. Matadero
Madrid, for the diversity of its cultural
activities. Your favourite museum.
The Reina Sofía, for the versatility
of its rooms and magnificent library.
Your thoughts on the Prado. Everyone can find inspiration in there. And
the Thyssen. We are lucky to have it
in Madrid. Madrid's best-kept secret.
It's an open secret: the future Royal
Collections Museum, designed by
Tuõn and Mansilla. Your latest discovery. The Tipos Infames bookshop
(San Joaquín, 3).

THE THREE CORNERS.
The Prado Museum (see previous
page), the Thyssen-Bornemisza
Museum (above) and the Reina
Sofía Museum make up the
central triangle of art in Madrid.

www.esmadrid.com

043
www.esmadrid.com/en/architecture-madrid

GERARD MORTIER
Artistic director
at the Teatro Real

Where does your life in Madrid
take place? Usually between the Teatro Real and my apartment. Where
would you recommend for a quiet
meal? The restaurants I like best are
Goizeko (Comandante Zurita, 37),
Kabuki (Avenida del Presidente Carmona, 2) and, when the weather's
good, the gardens of the Hotel Ritz
(Pza. de la Lealtad, 5). A walk that
inspires you. I really enjoy a stroll in
the Retiro Park and the grand boulevards of the city centre. A place to
buy a gift. I don't overcomplicate
things: I know that in El Corte Inglés
I can find everything I need.

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HAPSBURG
Royal Madrid
King Felipe II made Madrid the capital of Spain in the 16th century.
Both he and his successors would be active residents of Madrid.
A perfect example of this is Carlos III (18th century), a great town
planner who deserved his nickname as the “Mayor King”. Thanks
to him, the capital was transformed from a medieval town into
a modern city. The nucleus of this regal Madrid is the Royal
Palace, which boasts the most important royal armoury in Europe
and is surrounded by the Teatro Real opera house and La Almudena
Cathedral. A royal residence since 1764, it is impressive both for its
imposing façade and lavish interior, with almost 3,000 rooms open
to visitors. Nevertheless, the Spanish monarchs were of an austere
nature, and nowhere is this better reflected than in the Hapsburg
neighbourhood (Austrias).
PLAZA MAYOR
'   
    :
     
,    
    . 
   
  
 .

CENTURIES OF HISTORY.
On the left-hand page,
the Royal Palace presides
over Plaza de Oriente. Here,
the colonnades of Plaza Mayor
never fail to amaze.

*SSSSHHHH*

PAST AND PRESENT
Today, Hapsburg Madrid is one of the most pleasant places
to take a walk, and one of the best preserved areas of the
city. Nestled in between Puerta del Sol and the Royal Palace, it
is a labyrinth of narrow streets, stone buildings, convents and
churches. Time has been kind to this sober architecture, even
giving it a feeling of vitality. Much frequented by locals and visitors alike, it is also a fine example of how the past is still very
present in Madrid without overwhelming the modern city.

Monarchs, the aristocracy and
their homes are full of mysteries
and legends:
· It is said that the elegant halls
of Linares Palace, which today
house Casa de América, are
haunted. Many visitors claim to
have heard the ghost's voice.
· Ataulfo is the name of the
spirit that lives in the Reina
Sofía Museum. The legend dates
back to the 18th century when
the building was a hospital.
· The Duchess of Osuna organised talks on spiritualism during
the Enlightenment at El Capricho Park. Goya produced paintings for the small palace on
the grounds, including Witches'
Sabbath, now housed in the
Lázaro Galdiano Foundation.

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045
LITERARY QUARTER
Echoes of the Golden Age
The neighbourhood owes its name to the fact that Góngora,
Tirso de Molina, Calderón de la Barca and Lope de Vega
lived here in the 17th century. To remind us of these illustrious residents, excerpts of their works have been engraved on
pavements trodden by many passers-by every day. Its borders
are marked by Plaza de Santa Ana, Plaza de las Cortes,
Calle de Atocha and Paseo del Prado. Being close to the
Prado has naturally led to the establishment of several art
spaces in the area. In fact, it has always drawn in musicians,
booksellers and antique dealers. In recent years a new generation of traders and artists has emerged, reviving the perennial
spirit of the neighbourhood with a 21st-century twist. Everyone is aware that the Literary Quarter possesses a special
cultural energy and they pull together to protect it. Today, following a pedestrianisation process that has breathed life into
the area, the Literary Quarter takes great care over its ethics
and aesthetics. This is a neighbourhood worthy of the great
names who lived here a long time ago.

*BETWEEN PAGES*
»CUESTA DE MOYANO The mecca for all book lovers.
Here you can find traditional stalls where books are bought,
sold and exchanged. The perfect plan for the weekend.

»ATENEO Open to members and researchers, it

boasts a vast collection of 19th century pamphlets,
monographs and journals. Some interesting conferences
also take place here.

»NATIONAL LIBRARY Everything published in
Spain can be found here. It has just celebrated its 300th
anniversary with more vitality than ever.
»INSTITUTO CERVANTES LIBRARY

This space is targeted at a multicultural public interested
in the Spanish language. It has a good video library and
guarantees peace and quiet to work in.

046

www.esmadrid.com

NEIGHBOURHOOD LIFE. In
and around Calle de las Huertas
you can feel the inspiration of
literature and the arts, and you
will often stumble across street
performances here.
MARTA ETURA
Actress, winner of
the Goya Award for

Celda 211

Your favourite spot. The roof terrace of the Fine Arts Circle. I love
the view over the rooftops. Where
might we be able to find you?
In the Literary Quarter, browsing
its interior design stores, galleries
and antique shops. Your perfect
time and place. Gran Vía. 5am. A
terrace. My terrace, or that of the
hotel ME (Pza. Santa Ana, 14). A
place to eat with friends. Maxi
(Cava Alta, 4): on Thursdays and
Saturdays they do a delicious Madrid-style stew. A place to buy a
gift. I usually head to the area of
Calle de Piamonte.

MADRID'S LITERARY QUARTER
01. Pza. del ¸ngel
02. Teatro Espaol
03. Ateneo
04. Pza. de las Cortes
05. Thyssen Museum

06. Pza. de la Platería
07. Prado Museum
08. CaixaForum
09. Reina Sofía Museum
10. Cine Doré

www.esmadrid.com

047
www.esmadrid.com/en/art-madrid

GALLERY ROUTE The most contemporary art
Every year in February Madrid bustles with
the arrival of ARCOMadrid, to the delight of
all collectors. Free valuations will be offered
by the fair itself for the second year running
for those who wish to start their own collection. Its influence as a prominent art market
reaches across the whole city, all year round.
Madrid's galleries are behind the indisputable masters of modern art in Spain,
such as Tàpies, Barceló and Gris, as well as
the innovative force represented by young
avant-garde artists. There are a number
of gallery routes across the city centre. You

might decide to visit the galleries of the Literary Quarter, small yet very up-to-date, or
the long-standing ones in Chamberí. New
spaces are springing up in the Salamanca
district, already a pioneer back in the 1960s.
Other good routes can be found near the
Reina Sofía Museum, not to mention those
scattered across the Salesas neighbourhood. Whatever the choice, each one offers a
stimulating dip into the art world.

ARCO
IT'S A FIESTA
   
   , 
  
  . 
 , 
  

.

048

www.esmadrid.com
CREATIVE DYNAMISM.
On this page: an exhibition
room at La Fábrica cultural
centre, and the Instituto
Cervantes. Previous page:
Ivorypress gallery.

*SALESAS*
Although there are galleries
all over Madrid, the highest
proportion is to be found in
the Salesas neighbourhood.
The area is home to contemporary classics such as the
Juana de Aizpuru, Max Estrella,
La Caja Negra, Moriarty, Elvira
González and Rita Castellote
galleries. A stroll down its
wide streets confirms its status
as Madrid's own Soho.

GERARDO
MOSQUERA
@GerardoMosquer1
Curator
for PHotoEspaña

A walk that inspires you. From
Puerta del Sol to Hapsburg Madrid. To get away from it all.
The Royal Botanical Gardens.
The best views. From the roof terrace of the Fine Arts Circle. The
most special light. The sunset from
the terrace at La Almudena Cathedral. Your latest discovery. RMS El
Espacio (www.rms.com.es). Classicism versus avant-garde. The Prado Museum and Matadero Madrid.
A local tip. The San Miguel and San
Antõn markets. Something that always surprises you about Madrid.
The intensity of its nightlife.

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049
MADRID
AT YOUR FEET
    
    
  ' ,
   , ,
  
  
 .

CENTROCENTRO. The renovated
interior of Cibeles Palace is open
to residents and visitors alike - a
unique, multipurpose space
with viewpoint, auditorium and
restaurant/café.

050

www.esmadrid.com
CIBELES PALACE
A true icon of Madrid

STARTING POINT
The same building is also home to CentroCentro, 30,000
square metres of exhibition space and platforms for debate, an auditorium for chamber music events, and its Patio
de Operaciones, a place to socialise, take a seat, relax and
contemplate your next visit, or read some more about Madrid.
It also boasts an impressive Glass Gallery: some of the city's
best celebrations are held here. But the jewel in the palace's
crown is the viewpoint. It stands 70 metres from the ground,
offering 360 degree views over the heart of Madrid. The restaurant which opened in 2012 is on the top floor of the building.

02

03

04

05

06

07

A popular spot for snapshots in Madrid is undoubtedly
Cibeles Palace. In fact, the whole square invites a constant
stream of amateur photographers capturing their memories
of Madrid in the form of a photo. Now, Plaza de Cibeles, as
open and vibrant as the city itself, has taken on new life.
It has gone from being a mere piece of scenery to a place
that attracts visitors in its own right. The recent renovation
of Cibeles Palace has led to the creation of a new cultural and social space. The original building, built by Palacios and Otamendi in 1904, currently houses the City Council
in part of its rooms.

01

08

09

10

THE LANDMARKS OF CALLE ALCALÅ AND GRAN VÒA
01. Fine Arts Circle

Alcalá, 42. (1919-1926)

02. Metrõpolis Building
Alcalá, 39. (1907-1910)

03. Madrid-París Building
Gran Vía, 32. (1920-1924)

04. Palacio de la Prensa
Pza. del Callao, 4.
(1925-1929)

05. Cines Callao

Pza. del Callao, 3.
(1926-1927)

06. Torre de Madrid

Pza. de Espaa, 18.
(1954-1960)

07. Casino de Madrid
Alcalá, 15. (1903)

08. Banco Bilbao Building
Alcalá, 16. (1919-1923)

09. Carriõn Building
Gran Vía, 41.
(1931-1933)

10. Telefõnica Building

Gran Vía, 28. (1926-1930)

www.esmadrid.com/en/art-madrid

www.esmadrid.com

051
www.mataderomadrid.com

MATADERO MADRID Spaces in constant evolution
When you come to Madrid you'll see that in
recent years the capital has experienced a
similar process to that of other European cities. A process somewhere between poetry and
sustainability. The city has revived some
ailing spaces, breathing new cultural life
into them. The standard-bearer of this trend
is Matadero Madrid, a huge complex (and
former slaughterhouse) located on the edge
of the Madrid Río project that has placed the
Arganzuela district in the avant-garde spotlight of the city. Today it houses exhibition
halls such as Nave 16 (the largest in the city),
the innovative Central de Diseño, the creative centre Abierto X Obras and the cinema
Cineteca. This is also the location of Inter-

mediae, a venue for generating new projects,
and Naves del Español, one of Madrid's most
stimulating theatres. Its brand new landmark
space, La Casa del Lector, was successfully
opened in 2012.
BREAKING THE MOULD
Matadero continues the groundbreaking trend
started by La Casa Encendida, well known
for its cultural activities, courses and workshops. Another option is the El Águila complex, a former beer factory that now hosts
visual art exhibitions.

MATADERO
ALSO AT NIGHT
  ,  
   
 .  
   
 ,  
  '
  
 .

052

www.esmadrid.com
CÉSAR ANTONIO
MOLINA
Director of
Casa del Lector

A recommendation that never
disappoints. The Matadero Madrid
cultural complex. What is it about
Madrid that makes it special and
different? The sky and the constant
light. The most amazing thing
about Casa del Lector. It’s a place
that teaches how to live and love
culture. A great bookstore in the
capital. “Antonio Machado” in Círculo de Bellas Artes. A book about
Madrid or set in Madrid. Valle-Inclán’s novel, Bohemian Lights.

* NEWCOMERS *
BREAKING THE MOULD.
Matadero Madrid (on the left)
joins the list of innovative
spaces along with (on this
page) La Casa Encendida
and Hub Madrid.

»MEDIALAB PRADO A

research laboratory and centre
for collaborative work which aims
to disseminate digital culture and
bring together society, art, science
and technology. Alameda, 15.

»HUB MADRID A space for
co-working and an ideas centre.
It marks a before and after in our
understanding of the way we
work. Gobernador, 26.
»UTOPIC_US A multipurpose
and avant-garde art gallery,
workspace and, even, school.
Concepciõn Jerõnima, 22.

»ESPACIO FUNDACIÓN
TELEFÓNICA A leading expo-

nent of 21st century culture: creativity, innovation and technology for
social development. Fuencarral, 3.

www.esmadrid.com

053
RENEWAL. On this page:
the Conde Duque barracks
opens its doors once more. On
the next page: the light and
airy ABC museum (above)
contrasts with the museums of
History and Romanticism.

CONDE DUQUE
Martial renewal
This self-sufficient, well-preserved military neighbourhood is like a Russian doll:
the streets lead to plazas, which lead to
tucked-away spots, which lead to sculptures... Now it has added two large cultural spaces to its physiognomy and soul.
However, they are not entirely new: Conde
Duque already existed as an exhibition centre and concert hall, but it has
just undergone a fabulous refurbishment. In times gone by this was the largest building in Madrid. Even today it has
imposing dimensions, with a surface area
of 5,000m2 and 228 metres of façade. It
also boasts an impressive theatre, exhibition and musical programme of events.
A NEW NEIGHBOUR
Very close to Conde Duque and complementing it is the ABC Museum. It is an
unassuming building whose glass façade
contrasts with its surroundings. An initiative of the newspaper ABC and supported
by its substantial archives, it is focused
on illustration and graphic design.
Open since 2010, it already forms part of
the city's cultural routes. It's the new kid on
the block that can be found in all traditional
neighbourhoods.

054

www.esmadrid.com
www.esmadrid.com/condeduque

JUAN GATTI
Graphic designer
and visual artist

A museum or gallery. I love the Decorative Arts and Sorolla museums.
Madrid's best-kept secret. I want it
to stay that way: the Botanical Gardens. They are not at all well-known,
and they're divine. The thing you can
only find in Madrid. The party spirit.
Your latest discovery. The vintage
furniture shop Moratín 20. A unique
photo. In one of the Matadero buildings that haven't been restored, and I
love the light in the train stations.

* 5 MUSEUMS *
»ROMANTICISM Decorated
in the style of a 19th century bourgeois palace. A delight. In Chueca.
»SOROLLA The Valencian

artist painted here for many years.
The museum offers the best of
his works and the chance to learn
about his daily life. In Chamberí.

»CERRALBO Works by El Greco
and Zurbarán are interspersed with
this family's collection from the
19th century. In Princesa.

»LÁZARO GALDIANO

A journey through the history
of Spanish art: pieces by Goya,
Velázquez and El Greco. In
Salamanca.

»HISTORYFormer hospice

housing one of the best displays
of Madrid baroque. Recently
reopened. In Chueca.

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NEW ARCHITECTURE
From Castellana to the outskirts
During these first years of the 21st century, Madrid
has witnessed two architectural currents. It is impossible to ignore the first, a clearly avant-garde
style. The four skyscrapers at the northern end of
Castellana remind us of this fact. They are: Torre
de Cristal, Torre PwC (which houses the five-star
Eurostars Tower on its first 34 floors), Torre Espacio and Torre Repsol, the last of these designed
by Sir Norman Foster. Other turn-of-the-century examples include T4 (Richard Rogers-Estudio Lamela),
prodigious work of engineering and light; the CaixaForum building (Herzog&de Meuron), which still
amazes with its illusion of lightness; Caja Mágica
by Dominique Perrault; Jean Nouvel's work on the
Reina Sofía; and Moneo's on the Prado.

056

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The other trend present here has a more discreet
profile and sustainable angle. Madrid has taken on
projects in which architecture and town planning go
hand in hand; above all, the city keeps close to the
residents and their needs. In some of Madrid's neighbourhoods you can find works that incorporate green
technology and a sense of coexistence, as in the case
of the Eco-Boulevard in Vallecas and the Carabanchel urban expansion, which contains buildings
such as the Manzana Perforada by ACM Arquitectos and Casa de Bambú by Alejandro Zaera. Times
change, people change and cities change.
www.esmadrid.com/madridrio

21ST-CENTURY FORMS.
On the previous page:
the four towers erected
at the end of Paseo de la
Castellana. On this page:
the bridge designed by
Perrault as part of the
Madrid Río project.

THE BRIDGES OF MADRID RÍO
Have you crossed your favourite yet?
Madrid Río has 32 bridges and walkways linking the two banks
of the Manzanares River. If you weren't aware of its recent past,
you'd never guess that beneath them lies an underground motorway. This wide-ranging project directed by Ginés Garrido has
maintained and restored some classic bridges such as those of
Toledo, Segovia, Del Rey and Reina Victoria. Nine new bridges have also been added. The most frequently photographed is
the Puente Monumental de la Arganzuela by Dominique Perrault, an icon of the new Madrid. The most unusual bridge is
Puente de Andorra, or the y-shaped walkway, while the warmest designs are those of the twin Invernadero and Matadero
bridges, decorated by Daniel Canogar.

INVERNADERO
 
  
   
,  
 - 
   
    
.

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057
WHAT’S ON

ART & CULTURE
>>>>>>

KEEP UP WITH IT ALL ON www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid

IT WOULD BE IMPOSSIBLE TO COVER ALL THE CULTURAL
EVENTS ON OFFER IN MADRID BUT DON'T DESPAIR: WE
CAN SUM UP THE HIGHLIGHTS OF 2013 FOR YOU.

THREE TIPS
SOROLLA

Following exhibitions in Italy and
Granada, the
Sorolla Museum
is now hosting this
show paying tribute
to the painter’s
best-loved landscapes. From 30
October 2012 to 5
May 2013.
VAN DYCK

Casa de Alba
its artistic legacy
Paintings by Goya, Titan and Rubens are just a
few of the treasures from the Casa de Alba
private collection, now on show in the Centro
Centro at Palacio de Cibeles. More than 150
artworks from the legacy of Spain’s most influential aristocratic family.
>WHEN: From

30 November 2012 to 31 March

2013.
>DID YOU KNOW?: The masterpiece 'The Virgin of the
Pomegranate' is being exhibited for the very first time.

The Prado Museum
is showing the precocious painter’s
early creative work.
From 20 November
2012 to 3 March
2013.
CRISTINA IGLESIAS

The Reina Sofía is
hosting the biggest retrospective
exhibition ever
held on this Spanish artist. From 5
February to 13 May
2013.

Book Fair
A large-scale event at El Retiro Park
Every spring Madrid hosts this major event on
the literary calendar, where leading authors and
publishers come together to present their latest releases and interact with their readers.
>WHEN: May-June. Paseo de Coches in El Retiro Park.
>A UNIQUE EVENT: With more than 300 stalls, this is the
biggest bookshop you'll find in Spain.

058

Beyond ARCOMadrid
A window onto the avant-garde
Three other excellent fairs will be held in parallel: Art
Madrid, Madrid Dearte and JustMad. All complement
a programme that offers curated activities providing a
space for emerging galleries and markets.
>WHEN: From 13 to 17 February 2013 Feria de Madrid.
>KEEP IN MIND: Transport between fairs is generally well organised. Make sure you check out the options and timetables.

www.esmadrid.com
Architecture Week
A parade of giants
The experts reveal the secrets of Madrid's
most emblematic buildings. Get all the
details by visiting www.esmadrid.com/semanaarquitectura.
>WHEN: October. Various locations.
>WHAT TO EXPECT: It's a great chance to discover hidden gems.

Dalí The Surrealist genius
The Reina Sofía National Museum is hosting a major exhibition together with the Pompidou Centre in Paris, in collaboration
with the Gala-Salvador Dalí Foundation in Figueres and the
Salvador Dalí Museum in St. Petersburg (Florida). The show
focuses on the Surrealist period of this creative genius, with particular emphasis on the paranoiac-critical method he developed
as a mechanism for transforming and subverting reality.
>WHEN: From

24 April to 2 September 2013.
More Dalí to come at the end of the year: he also features in the Surrealism and Dream exhibition at the Thyssen Museum.

>TO BEAR IN MIND:

AND MUCH MORE
MADRIDFOTO

The outlook is good for
the fifth year of this event
dedicated to collecting
contemporary images.
From 23 to 26 May 2013.
Feria de Madrid.

LA CIUDAD EN VI³ETAS

CentroCentro is the
place to catch a cycle of
exhibitions on unpublished comic strips
on Madrid. From 27
September 2012 to 31
July 2013.

Pisarro
A unique Impressionist
A pivotal figure who laid the foundations
for the Impressionist movement, but
who was eclipsed by his peers. The Thyssen
Museum is holding the first monographic
exhibition of his work in Spain.
>WHEN: From 4 June to 15 September 2013.
>WHY YOU SHOULD SEE IT: Because you will
really appreciate his mastery of landscape in
these 70 works of art.

MARTÒN RICO

The Prado Museum
presents work by this
pioneering artist in the introduction of realist landscape painting in Spain.
From 30 October 2012 to
10 February 2013.

CHANGING OF THE GUARD

Enjoy one of the most emblematic sights by visiting
the Royal Palace for the
Solemn Changing of the
Guard. The first Wednesday
of every month at 12 noon,
except in summer.

www.esmadrid.com

059
060

www.esmadrid.com
Madrid's taxi drivers are the
most intelligent sociologists
ELENA OCHOA FOSTER EDITOR AND GALLERY OWNER

The wife of architect Norman Foster is the founder of the Ivorypress art publishers and exhibition
space, a meeting point for the newest vanguard movements.
@IvoryPress

Define Madrid in just one image.
The Gran Vía leading down towards
Plaza de Cibeles.
Where in Madrid could you
spend hours reading?
At home. And if my house is full of
kids playing in the hallways, then
Plaza de Santa Bárbara nearby.
Where do you like to hang out?
At the bar Cock (Reina, 16) with my
close friends, until as late as possible.
What's the greatest luxury you
allow yourself in Madrid? And
the best value treat?
Wandering around Hapsburg Madrid. And the best value treat: going to the cinema with my children,
enjoying a packet of pipas and a
large popcorn.
What hotel do you usually recommend?
The Santo Mauro (Zurbano, 36).

And what about restaurants?
For pizza, Bar Tomate (Fernando El
Santo, 26); if you fancy hake, then
Goizeko Kabi (Comandante Zorita,
37); for game, Horcher (Alfonso XII,
6); for a good potato tortilla, La Ancha (Príncipe de Vergara, 204); and
for eating and chatting with friends,
La Tasquita de Enfrente (Ballesta,
6). With my kids I prefer to go to
Pan de Lujo (Jorge Juan, 20). And
I'm leaving a lot of places out.
What is the thing you miss
most about Madrid when you're
abroad?
The smell, the light, the blue sky,
and the taxi drivers: they're the
most intelligent sociologists, a
barometer of Spain. Their irony is
witty, authentic and inimitable.
What can a visitor to Ivorypress
expect to find?
A different way of understanding
books and contemporary art. That's
how we've been described by the Financial Times and the Daily Telegraph,

as well as by magazines like Monocle
and Corriere del Arte. My team and I
have managed to position Ivorypress
and Madrid as a steady, indisputable
landmark in contemporary art and
publishing. It's a fact and a reality.
But there’s still a long way to go.
Who is the artist from Madrid
that you would most like to publish a book with?
The artist I admire most is from
Madrid: Isidoro Valcárcel Medina.
He is the future. We have developed
a meticulous artist's book with him
which we will launch at this year's
edition of Arco.
The best book written about
Madrid is...
The one I'm writing, which I might
not ever publish. I’m writing about
public and private Madrid, the Madrid I love and the one I hate, the
one that I feel when I live there for
periods of time, and the timeless,
ephemeral Madrid; its people, whom
I love, and its skies and corners.

www.esmadrid.com

061
FOOD&DRINK
64-78
6465 TAPAS
6667 MADRID  THE ESSENCE
6869 COSMOPOLITAN FLAVOURS
7071 HEALTHY AND GOURMET
7273 DISTRICT BY DISTRICT
7475 SWEETS AND DESSERTS
76 DRINKING IN STYLE
77 WHAT'S ON
78 INTERVIEW
Ramón Freixa
TAPAS

The pleasure will be all yours

TASTY BITES.
A selection of tapas
lined up on a bar in San
Miguel market. On the
right, eating raciones in La
Latina district.

MADRID IS ONE OF THE
WORLD'S FOOD CAPITALS. HERE
YOU CAN ENJOY DISHES
FROM ACROSS THE GLOBE
AS WELL AS TRADITIONAL AND
CONTEMPORARY SPANISH CUI
SINE AT ANY TIME OF DAY. TA
PAS, THOUGH, ARE A MUST.

064

www.esmadrid.com

LET YOURSELF GO
   
 :
   
,    
 , 
  
  
.

BEER AND WINE
A traditional ceremony
A good tapa needs to be washed down with a good drink,
which is why the beer pump is the heart of any bar. Traditional taverns always echo to the sound of glasses of beer
being filled and passed over the counter. In Madrid pale beer
is the favourite choice, served in a small glass and very
cold, especially in summer. Some people prefer a clara,
beer mixed with soda water or lemonade. Vermouth, also
available on tap, is still a favourite aperitif.
READY FOR A BITE?
Doing the rounds
in La Latina
Eating raciones (portions) is an old Spanish
tradition that has become popular in many
countries, and there’s nowhere quite like Madrid for enjoying tapas. They have become part
of our social and cultural life, with cheese, cold
meats, rice and stews in individual portions
making up the perfect informal way of eating
your fill. This art is at its finest in the Literary
and Hapsburg quarters and, above all, in
La Latina, where you can go from bar to bar,
eating a little of everything you fancy.
Products with designation of origin and
other delicacies are now being given the creative cuisine treatment. Leading chefs have
turned their attention to tapas, reinventing
them with creative designs, attractive textures
and a mix of delicious international flavours.
However, However, the tortilla, or potato
omelette, is still the best known tapa of all. In
portions, as canapés or cut into cubes, it is the
quintessential Madrid tapa.

* TOP TAPAS *
»CROQUETTES Ham, chicken, cod
WINE BY THE GLASS
Depending on the bar and
the time of day, wine has become a popular alternative to
beer. The traditional flat-bottomed chatos are now being replaced by stemmed
wine glasses. You can order
wine by the glass so there’s
no need to sit down at a dinner table and order a whole
bottle. Fine wines from Spain
and the rest of the world can
be enjoyed in many classic

wine bars and modern gastro-bars, where you can devise your own à la carte tasting menu of small dishes. Old
favourites like olives, white
anchovies in vinegar and
Iberian ham are to be found
alongside new versions of
traditional recipes featuring
ingredients from other cultures. Travel through food!

and many others. With their varied fillings,
croquettes are ideal for a tasty snack.

»'BOCADILLOS' Baguettes filled
with old favourites are still very popular:
fried squid, ham and tomato, pork tenderloin with cheese, peppers, etc.
»'TORTILLAS' The potato omelette
reigns supreme but there are many
alternatives. In Spain they are eaten at
any time of day.
»PATATAS BRAVAS Potatoes cut
into chunks, fried and served with a spicy
tomato sauce.

www.esmadrid.com

065
OMAR ALLIBHOY
@tapasrevolution
Owner of hugely
succcessful Tapas
Revolution in London

Where do they serve your favourite cocido? In Taberna la Daniela.
Any favourite tapa? The tortilla
pinchos at Juana la Loca (Pza.
Puerta de Moros, 4) and croquettes
from the stall in San Miguel market. A relaxed meal. Roast lamb
at La Tahona (Espíritu Santo, 12).
A drink to round the evening off?
The rooftop terrace at Hotel Urban
(Carrera de San Jerõnimo, 34).

THE HOME OF 'COCIDO'.
From left to right, three
restaurants you'll want to go
back to: La Bola, Cruz Blanca
beer bar in Vallecas (winner of
the award for the best cocido in
Madrid) and Malacatín.

066

www.esmadrid.com

A COMPLETE 'COCIDO'
The capital's staple dishes
Cocido is a meal in itself. The first course consists of
soup, and is followed by a stew made with cabbage,
carrots and potatoes, chorizo, bacon, chicken and pork,
plus chickpeas, a crucial ingredient. There are many
variations but the original, authentic version is
from Madrid. The dish epitomises the city's open
character. This generous stew, which admits all sorts
of ingredients, should be prepared in a pot and served
in an earthenware dish. It dates back to the sixteenth
century, when it was eaten by nobility and servants
alike. La Bola, La Daniela and Los Galayos are among
the best known restaurants serving this traditional
dish. To work up an appetite or help you to digest your
meal, go for a long walk through the city centre.

LA LATINA
La Latina district is the
focal point for tourists and
locals in search of good
traditional cooking.

MOUTHWATERING FOOD
There are many other traditional dishes that are firmly
rooted in Madrileños’ normal diets. They can also be
found in restaurants across the city, with such gastronomic delights as roast lamb at Casa Botín, tripe at
the Malacatín, fried eggs at Casa Lucio and calamari
sandwich at El Brillante all forming part of the local
culinary heritage. In Madrid you can also find fine food
from the rest of Spain in the city's many excellent
regional restaurants: salmorejo from Andalusia, pisto
from La Mancha, fish and shellfish from the north of
Spain and rice dishes from the Mediterranean.

www.esmadrid.com

067
TREAT YOURSELF. It doesn't
matter if you choose the
elegance of Terraza del Casino,
Chinese food at Tsé Yang
or an Indian meal at Mumbai.
Madrid will not disappoint you.

SETTING
THE SCENE
   
, ' 
  
 ,
  
  
 .

3,100

RESTAURANTS

In different parts of
the city. Food is an
art, combining leisure,
culture and business.

OPENED IN

1725

Casa Botín, near
Plaza Mayor, is the
oldest restaurant in
the world.

10

TRADITIONAL
RESTAURANTS

You'll find them on Paseo de la Gastronomía
in Casa de Campo.

068

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MICHELIN STARS
Exquisite taste
Michelin, the restaurant guide par excellence, has never been particularly
generous as far as Spain's or Madrid's gastronomy is concerned. But
the stars it has awarded are certainly
well deserved. Madrid has six restaurants holding two Michelin stars: La
Terraza del Casino, home of Paco
Roncero's imaginative cuisine; Santceloni, where Óscar Velasco follows
in the footsteps of Santi Santamaría;
Ramón Freixa Madrid and Sergi
Arola Gastro, named aſter their famous chefs, both of whom trained
in Catalonia; plus DiverXo and Club
Allard. Their young yet mature chefs
are David Muñoz and Diego Guerrero

respectively, who skilfully combine
widely varying culinary trends.
The restaurants with one Michelin
star are the elegant Zalacaín, where
some of the country's most important
business deals have been struck, and
Kabuki and Kabuki Wellington,
a balanced fusion of Japanese and
Spanish cooking made possible by
Ricardo Sanz's technical precision.
There are sure to be many more in the
future, as Madrid's cuisine is definitely
going from strength to strength.
www.esmadrid.com/en/restaurants-madrid

DAVID MUÑOZ
@DiverXO
Chef at
DiverXo restaurant

A favourite spot. Bravo Murillo, cultural fusion in a street with a fine old
tradition. A secret treat. The Hammam Al Andalus Madrid baths (Atocha, 14). Your favourite Madrid dish?
Cocido; the best is the one you can order from Antojo (Ferraz, 36). An area
for tapas. Huertas. Your favourite
place to eat or drink? Arzábal (Doctor
Castelo, 2). Places you would recommend. Sudestada (Modesto Lafuente,
64) and O’Pazo (Reina Mercedes, 20).
Your latest discovery. La Gastrocroquetería (Segovia, 17).

PHOTOS PENDING OK
os alr Ugiam, commy nim
dui te conulput nibh ex
er se feugiat. Ut autatis
molortinim veliquat dolore
conulla aut exeraesse
euisi.

TRY THIS
A trip round the world in Lavapiés
In recent years a fine selection of dishes from all over the
globe have started cropping up on Madrid menus. This culinary journey round the world becomes a never-ending experience because of the enormous range of attractive and
delicious food on offer. Spicy dishes from Mexico, grilled
meat from Argentina, ceviche from Peru, plus arepas from
Venezuela and Colombia are now part of everyday life in
the city. The same applies to Japanese, Chinese, Thai and
Indonesian food, which is increasingly available in all parts
of the city. You can enjoy an authentic Indian tandoori in
Lavapiés and choose the most exquisite sushi in Paseo
de la Castellana, whether you're looking for an everyday
meal or a special treat. Pasta prepared in genuine Neapolitan ovens, Scandinavian smoked fish, or hearty dishes from
Russia - take your pick!

www.esmadrid.com

069
EATING IN THE MARKET
San Miguel and San Antón
Madrid has taken snacks back to their roots, to the markets selling the top quality products used to make them,
and pushed informal tapas to new heights. First in San
Miguel market, next to Plaza Mayor, and now in
San Antón, in Chueca, open multi-purpose spaces have
been set up where you can do the week's shopping or
join your friends for a bite to eat and a beer or a glass
of wine. The unique buildings have been painstakingly
refurbished, making them new city landmarks appreciated by residents and visitors alike. In both markets you
can enjoy oysters in cava or grilled foie gras. Bite-sized
portions of croquettes, mushrooms, Iberian cold meats

ALEJANDRA
ANSÓN
@elite_gourmet
Director of
Elite Gourmet

For a relaxed meal. La Tasquita
de Enfrente (Ballesta, 6) or Ramõn
Freixa (Claudio Coello, 67), depending on the day. A secret treat.
White truffle at Don Giovanni (Reina
Cristina, 23). A traditional dish.
Tortilla at Támara (Av. América, 33).
Any favourite tapa? Nino's little
dishes at La Gabinoteca (Fernández
de la Hoz, 53). The best view. From
the La Terraza del Casino restaurant
(Alcalá, 15). A hotel where you
have a meal too? The Hotel Urban,
thanks to Joaquín Felipe (Carrera de
San Jerõnimo, 34).

070

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DELICIOUS MARKETS.
On this page the counter at
one of the bars in San
Miguel market. On the next
page, two places to eat in
San Antón market.

www.esmadrid.com/cultura

and cheese are available until the small hours,
as are home-made ice cream, fresh fruit juice
and designer cakes.
QUICK SERVICE WITH NO SET TIMES
When you visit Madrid you'll find you can eat
very well without breaking the bank. Everyone is familiar with fast food but now many
leading chefs are contributing ingenious ideas for a more balanced version. There is a
demand for carefully prepared, healthy food
using quality ingredients. There has been a
city-wide boom in gourmet hamburgers,
and the trend also applies to tacos, pizzas,
hot dogs, filled baguettes and sandwiches.
Fast food has been reinvented to satisfy
the most demanding diner.

JOSÉ CARLOS CAPEL
@madridfusion
Director of Madrid
Fusión and food
critic

What does Madrid Fusiõn mean
for the city? It has raised its profile
around the world. What do they do
best in Madrid? Pommes soufflés.
The best cocido? Go to Charolés,
in El Escorial (Floridablanca, 24). A
place you'd recommend to friends
visiting Madrid. The stage area in
Teatriz restaurant (Hermosilla, 15).
Your favourite tapa? The ham croquettes at El Quinto Vino (Hernani,
48). The most tempting food in
Madrid. Fusion cuisine. Madrid and
London are European pioneers in
this field.

www.esmadrid.com

071
DISTRICTS IN MADRID
TO WHET YOUR APPETITE
This is the start of your culinary journey through the main areas
in the city centre, a route full of interesting flavours.

THE LITERARY QUARTER
The area round Plaza de Santa Ana and
Calle de Huertas combines convenience
and a Bohemian atmosphere. Its traditional
taverns and modern gastrobars are ideal
for a snack when shopping or visiting museums and theatres.

LA LATINA
A walk round the district is compulsory on
Sundays but its bars are well worth visiting during the week, when they are less
crowded. Enjoy regional dishes and generous snacks as you explore Calle Cava Baja.
The district's little squares, with their
lively open-air bars, are hard to resist
on summer evenings.

LAVAPIÉS
The area's traditional past blends with its
new international character. Aromas from
all parts of the world waſt through
its streets, bringing Oriental, Indian and
North African cuisine to Madrid. Calle del
Ave María is a good example, while the
terraces in Argumosa are known as
the district's "sea-front".

SALAMANCA
The district offers gourmet shops, tasting
menus and outstanding wine bars. The
area round Calle Serrano is home to vari-

072

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ous award-winning restaurants offering
food to satisfy the most discerning palate.
And there is no shortage of elegant bars
where you can eat tapas or have tea while
you take a breather from shopping.

SALESAS
The bars serving beer in Plaza de Santa Bárbara are the epicentre of a district
featuring many aſter work bars and delicatessens. Old and well-established cafés
such as El Espejo and Gijón, in Paseo de
Recoletos, give the area a particularly
distinguished air.

MALASAÑA
This lively young district has also kept up
with the fascinating change in people's
eating habits. With a wide range of takeaway food, retro-style cafés, vegetarian restaurants and cosy tea-rooms, it
is also home to legendary tapas bars and
restaurants serving international cuisine.

CHUECA
The San Antón market, with its splendid
flat roof, has extended the impressive
range of options available. Old established
restaurants rub shoulders with brand new
businesses run by young chefs. In the
Vázquez de Mella area you'll find classic cocktails and exotic menus.
INTERNATIONAL.
Above, from left to right,
two Italian restaurants:
La Mucca and La
Tavernetta. Below, Happy
Day bakery.

* SET MENUS *
Good, tasty and cheap. In
Madrid you can eat very well on
a tight budget. Most restaurants
offer a set lunch, a filling meal
consisting of two main courses,
a dessert, bread and a drink
at prices ranging from €10 to
€20. The casas de comida are a
particularly good option, serving both traditional and more
modern fare, prepared with fresh
market produce and served in
a friendly, informal atmosphere
that's popular with students,
workers and travellers. When
you come to Madrid, try to visit
different districts so you can see
for yourself how the huge variety
of food on offer reflects their
own, very individual characters.

www.esmadrid.com

073
FOR THOSE WITH A SWEET
TOOTH... Breakfast and tea
As you walk round Madrid you'll be bombarded by many tempting aromas. The city has a strong tradition of baking that dates
back for centuries. Traditional pastry specialities include pestiños,
buñuelos de viento, huesos del Santo, rosquillas de San Isidro,
torrijas (eaten at Easter), the roscón de Reyes (a ring-shaped
cake eaten at Christmas), while recent additions include la corona
de la Almudena, eaten during the festivities to honour the
city's patron saint. Churros with hot chocolate are a very wellestablished old favourite, eaten mid-aſternoon to ward off the cold
weather or early in the morning aſter a night on the town. They are
also an integral part of many popular festivities. The thick drinking
chocolate is much loved by children and adults alike, who delight in
dunking their fried batter porras and lazos.

SWEETLY SIDE BY SIDE.
Madrid is home to traditional
bakeries such as La
Santiaguesa and new ventures
like Buenas y Dulces, selling
doughnuts and tea biscuits.

074

www.esmadrid.com
www.esmadrid.com/en/restaurants-madrid

* DESSERTS *
»COFFEE The smell of coffee
fills bars and cafés from early
morning until mid-afternoon.
White at breakfast time and with
just a drop of milk after lunch.
»CUPCAKES Traditional fairy
cakes are now decorated with ontrend fancy ingredients, like they
do in English-speaking countries.
»ICE CREAM Home-made,

creamy and nutritious, this old favourite now features unusual new
varieties. Though mostly eaten in
summer, it's also popular in winter.

»'ROSCÓN' Originally meant

to be eaten at Epiphany, there are
bakeries where this cake has been
transformed into a work of art.

CHOCOLATES
AND SWEETS
  
  
  
  
 
 .

NEW TRENDS
Madrid has a number of organic bakeries selling freshly-made croissants, which have made
a big change to the early morning coffee ritual.
The growing popularity of brunch in hotels and
designer bars has made it a regular habit for
many people at weekends. An increasing number
of the city's residents are adopting the custom of
having a British-style high tea in the aſternoon,
eating cupcakes with multi-coloured toppings
and pancakes with syrup and cream.

www.esmadrid.com

075
LOVINGLY MIXED DRINKS.
Barman Carlos Moreno, from
Charly's Bar.

THE AFTER WORK BOOM
Cocktails in the centre
In Madrid there's no need to wait for the weekend to enjoy the
city's night life. It's become increasingly common for the Friday or
Saturday night dinner plus drink routine to happen any evening
from Monday to Thursday. There has been a remarkable increase in the number of establishments of all kinds catering for
the aſter-work market. Customers can take advantage of attractive
special deals on drinks and snacks to unwind aſter the day's work
and chat to friends.
Do you prefer a quiet cocktail bar or somewhere livelier? Does it depend on the day you've had? If you like cocktails, Gran Vía (the legendary Museo Chicote, for example) and the area behind it (Calle de la
Reina) are a must. Fancy a gin & tonic? They serve fantastic mixed
drinks in the Triball area. The list is never-ending and you'll be spoilt
for choice all the way from Calle Almirante to Calle de Juan Bravo.

076

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MIKEL
ITURRIAGA
@mikeliturriaga
Author of the blog
El Comidista

A relaxed meal. At Lúa (Zurbano,
85), haute cuisine with no fuss. A restaurant to impress someone. Nikkei
225: high class Japanese-Peruvian
fusion (Castellana, 15). Favourite
tapas? Rabas and salmorejo at El Pez
Gordo (Pez, 6). A place to go to
with friends. Home Burger (Espíritu
Santo, 12). A drink to round the
evening off? In Toni 2 (Almirante, 9).
It's a parallel world.
WHAT’S ON

FOOD & DRINK

>>>>>> FOR FULL DETAILS GO TO www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid

THE CALENDAR IS BRIMMING WITH DELICIOUS GASTRO
NOMIC EVENTS HIGHLIGHTING THE FINEST FOOD FROM
MADRID AND FROM ACROSS THE GLOBE.

AND...
MADRID FUSIØN

This is the eleventh
anniversary of
the international
event that turns
Madrid into the
gastronomy capital of the world,
with the presence
of internationally
acclaimed chefs.
In Pavilion 14.1 at
IFEMA. From 21 to
23 January.
SALØN GOURMET

A meeting point for
manufacturers and
consumers of highend food products.
A showcase event
for top quality food
and drink, attracting
buyers from all over
the world. Feria de
Madrid. From 8 to
11 April.
SOCIAL MENU

Gastrofestival A festival of the senses
Coinciding with Madrid Fusión, the city
also hosts Gastrofestival, a culinary and
cultural event with a packed programme
of activities inviting everyone to enjoy Madrid's many flavours. Leading chefs prepare special menus at attractive prices for
the popular Dinners with the Stars and
fashion designers present their own special
creations in Gastrofashion. The event, now

in its third year, also includes tastings and
courses, and is enthusiastically supported
by restaurants, museums, art galleries,
markets and delicatessens.
>WHEN: From

19 January to 3 February 2013.
is a unique
opportunity to enjoy fine food at exceptionally low prices.

>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: This

Restaurants supporting Restaurant
Week, an initiative
that first started in
New York in 1992,
will be serving
menus at especially
attractive prices.
Not only are they
making restaurants
more accessible,
they are also supporting charitable
causes. March and
November.

www.esmadrid.com

077
"Madrid is full
of temptations"
RAMÓN FREIXA COOK
@RamonFreixa

He is one of the leading lights of the
Catalonian school living in Madrid.
The restaurant bearing his name has
earned itself two Michelin stars in
record time.
Lxs cursivxs nx
cxgxn lxs xcxntxs

What does Madrid taste of?
Diversity.
What's been the greatest improvement in the last few
years?
The fresh vitality brought in by
the new set of chefs.
What about the new markets?
A genuine resurgence. I always
say that San Miguel is ideal for
tapas, and in San Antón they've
succeeded in combining tapas
and shopping.
What's your favourite authentic Madrid dish?
Tripe and 'broken' fried eggs.
For dessert?
Desserts are getting better all the
time. You can see it happening in
bakeries like Oriol Balaguer (José
Ortega y Gasset, 44) and Pomme
Sucre (Barquillo, 49).

078

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Your latest discovery?
The Don Lay Chinese restaurant
(Paseo de Extremadura, 30).
Which places do you recommend to your friends?
A walk in El Retiro Park and,
for shopping, the Malasaña and
Salamanca districts.
Where do you go to buy a giſt?
Isolée is a good choice, with lots
to choose from (Infantas, 19).
For flowers, I go to Floreale (Luis
Vives, 5).
The best place to round off an
evening with a drink?
I'd name three: Dry Martini by
Javier de las Muelas (Hermosilla,
2), O'Clock (Juan Bravo, 25) and Le
Cabrera (Bárbara de Braganza, 2).
The most tempting thing in Madrid?
Madrid is full of temptations.
SHOPPING
80-97

WHATEVER YOUR STYLE, WE HAVE
SOMETHING TO SUIT ALL TASTES.

8081 SERRANO
8283 GRAN VÍA / SOL
8485 RASTRO FLEA MARKET
8687 SALESAS, TRIBALL AND
THE LITERARY QUARTER
8889 HITTING THE MARKETS
9091 BACK TO MADRID'S ROOTS
92 OUTLET CHIC
93 SHOPPING MAP
9495 WHAT'S ON
9697 INTERVIEW Maribel Verdú
ARTE Y CULTURA

SHOPPING
The best of each neighbourhood

EACH AREA HAS ITS OWN PERSONALITY. THE MOST
CHIC BRANDS ARE IN SALAMANCA; THE LATEST TRENDS,
IN SALESAS; TRADITIONAL BOUTIQUES, ON GRAN VÍA...
WHAT'S MORE, MADRID IS OPEN 365 DAYS A YEAR.

SERRANO Come to the street of temptations
Madrid's most fashion-conscious zone is
found in Calle Serrano and the surrounding
streets. A long, formal and traditional street,
its pavements, which have been replaced
and widened for the comfort of pedestrians, are flanked by the largest collection of leading fashion brands. From the

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majestic presence of Ortega y Gasset to
the chic elegance of Jorge Juan and its
alleyways. A stroll through the Salamanca
neighbourhood, shopping bags in hand, is a
traditional pastime for residents of Madrid
and a temptation for visitors dazzled by the
vast array of objects of desire on display.
STREETS
WITH RENOWN
    
   
    
. , ,
  
   
 .

SALAMANCA DISTRICT
01. Museum of
Public Art
02. Carlos de Amberes
Foundation
03. La Paz Market
04. Loewe
05. El Jardín de Serrano
06. Plaza de Colõn
07. Callejõn de Jorge
Juan
08. Colõn Tourist
Center
09. Teatro Fernán
Gõmez
10. National Library
11. Archaeological
Museum

Famous jewellers, international boutiques, great
designer brands and interior decoration stores,
traditional artisanal shops and various delicatessens offer numerous opportunities to find the perfect
giſt. Spanish fashion deserves special attention,
having taken Calle Serrano and the surrounding area
by storm during recent decades with a lively presence
that has ensured the neighbourhood is a permanent
point of interest. The retail and leisure options here are
constantly updated, and there are numerous first-class
cafés, outdoor bars and restaurants, all of which can
now also be enjoyed on Sundays.

www.esmadrid.com

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SHOPPING

www.esmadrid.com/en/shopping-madrid

GRAN VÍA / SOL The main commercial arteries of Madrid
From Monday to Sunday, life in central Madrid's neighbourhoods is a constant bustle
of people and action. And all roads lead
to the century-old Gran Vía. It has junctions
leading onto many other streets, a large
number of which are pedestrianized, allowing millions of residents and visitors to discover the brightest, most fascinating side
of the city.
While its first section is more traditional,
lined with emblematic boutiques, cocktail
bars and grand hotels, Gran Vía is transformed at the Red de San Luis junction. This
is due to the modern influence of Calle de
Fuencarral. Here, the flagship stores of firstrate international brands occupy immense
premises in historic buildings in a show

WINDOW-SHOPPING ROUTE.
Two examples of the varied
retail options Madrid has to offer.
This page: The classic store
Grassy Jewellers. Opposite:
Fuencarral's modern look.

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of lights and colours that attracts all
passers-by. This spectacle continues from
Plaza del Callao where it meets Calle
Preciados. Pioneering in its restrictions on
traffic circulation, it is still the busiest street
in Spain. At the other end of the district, the
Puerta del Sol branches off into Mayor
and Arenal streets, renewed in recent
years by the opening of establishments that
blend in perfectly with neighbourhood classics. There is so much to choose from that
we need to retrace our steps to make sure
we don't miss anything. This district is truly
the beating heart of Madrid.
CENTRAL MADRID
01. Pza. Sta. Bárbara
02. Café Comercial
03. Barcelõ Market
04. Pza. del Dos de
Mayo
05. Pza. de San Ildefonso
06. Fuencarral Market
07. Triball
08. San Antõn
Market
09. Pza. del Callao
10. Pza. del Carmen
11. Kilometre Zero
12. Pza. Mayor
13. Õpera

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SHOPPING
THE FLEA MARKET
Not just on Sundays
Visiting the Rastro flea market on Sundays and public holidays
is a favourite activity among Madrid’s locals. The countless
stalls of this street market, which spread down the hill from Plaza de
Cascorro along Ribera de Curtidores, sell everything and anything
imaginable: you just have to know how to find what you're looking for!
The whole La Latina neighbourhood is immersed in a bustle of trade
from first thing in the morning. Fray Ceferino González and San
Cayetano streets possess their own interior world. The same can
be said of Plaza del General Vara del Rey, a popular destination
for collectors of antique journals, paintings, picture cards and prints
which they buy, sell and exchange with enthusiasm.
OPPORTUNITIES ABOUND
These winding streets contain the most unusual items among its
second-hand books, retro furniture and all manner of kitsch relics. Your best bet is to be willing to be surprised and share
your opinions. The human tidal wave might take us to corners of
the market we might never have explored of our own volition. Not
many people know that apart from the intense activity in the
flea market on Sundays, the area is also a vibrant place to be
on weekdays. Newly established antique shops, and clothes and
second-hand shops receive daily visits from those willing to diligently
rummage through stock at a slower pace.

GUILLERMO
GARCÍA DE LA HOZ
Designer and
interior decorator

Your favourite corner. La Casa de
Granada (Doctor Cortezo, 17), to
see the sunset. An essential shop.
El Anticuario de Belén (Belén, 11),
Vintage 4P (Bastero, 4), Youtopía
(Garcilaso, 5) and any of the flea
market stalls. The best-decorated
premises. Hub Madrid (Gobernador,
26). For a guilty treat. Café Oita
(Hortaleza, 31): irresistible. Where
to end an evening. The Mercado
de la Reina restaurant (Gran Vía,
12). The latest trend. Pad Thai (Paseo del Prado, 40). I love the mix of
stained glass windows depicting the
Virgin alongside Buddha.

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THE
PERFECT PLAN
   
  
  , 
    
   
    
 , 
   
 .

SEVEN DAYS. Life in the area
changes radically depending on
the day. During the week you
can explore new antique shops.
On Sundays, check out the most
surprising stalls.

3,500
STALLS

Are erected every
Sunday at the flea
market, from 9 am
to 3 pm.

70,000
PEOPLE

pass through the Sol
station every day to
make use of the three
metro lines and two
local train lines.

SINCE

1578

The oldest shop in
Madrid: the Reina
Madre chemist's on
Calle Mayor.

www.esmadrid.com

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SHOPPING
SHOPPING

WALKING ROUTE
   
  
    
    
  , 
 , ,
 , 
  
.

SALESAS, TRIBALL AND THE LITERARY QUARTER
For the latest in design
SALESAS ROUTE
If you want to shop for the most up-todate trends, then this is the neighbourhood you
should be getting lost in. In Argensola, Fernando VI and Regueros streets you can find multibrand stores stocking all the latest fashion. This
area simply lives and breathes fashion wherever
you go, since it's where all the main showrooms
and communications offices are located. Calle de
Barquillo is losing some of its old music shops in
order to open new multibrand spaces which will
catch the eye of all followers of fashion.
DISCOVER TRIBALL
In Malasaña, this project has revived trade and
brought life to the neighbourhood. It's a top
destination for those looking for something
a bit different. Within the triangle of streets

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comprising Gran Vía, Calle de Fuencarral
and Corredera Baja de San Pablo, a string
of small shops have appeared whose predominant features are their modern design, artisanal
products and welcoming interiors.
DESIGN IN THE LITERARY QUARTER
Take advantage of your visit to Madrid to decorate your home. Fans of interior decoration
with character are well-advised to take a
stroll around the Literary Quarter. Among
the neighbourhood's antique bookshops and
small cafés you can find vintage furniture and
industrial style lighting by the best Scandinavian
designers.
www.esmadrid.com/en/shopping-madrid

MANUEL
GARCÍA MADRID
@garciamadrid
Menswear fashion
designer

FOLLOW THE TRENDS.
In streets such as Conde
Xiquena, Espíritu Santo and
Barquillo you will find a rich
array of fashion and design
stores so you can keep up with
the trends.

Don't miss. The squares in the Hapsburg
neighbourhood. My favourite is Plaza
de la Basílica Pontificia de San Miguel.
A hotel. The Hotel Ada Gran Vía,
for fabulous lunches or an evening
cocktail on its terrace. Your private
garden. Just behind La Almudena Cathedral, in las Vistillas. A leisurely
lunch. Malacatín (Ruda, 5). The best
stew in Madrid: if you manage to eat
it all you eat for free. For a homemade treat. At the El Riojano pastry
shop (Mayor,10): they've got the best
crunis (sweet puff pastry sandwiches).
And if you need to buy a gift? I prefer the smaller shops.
AMAYA RODRÍGUEZ
@mayitori
Creative
Director

Rock 'n' roll. The whole of the flea
market. Looking for inspiration. In
Salesas, in the shops on Calle de Orellana. For an original gift. Hakei (Ayala, 34) or Suela (Lagasca, 94). And for
the boys? Cos (Claudio Coello, 53)
or the shop Lomography (Echegaray,
5). For a drink with friends. At De
Diego (Reina, 12) or La Turba (Conde
de Xiquena, 3). Where do you escape
to? In the Botanical Gardens - I love
the smell of damp earth, especially in
autumn. Your latest discovery. An
atelier run by these really nice girls
who make cool and unusual wedding
dresses: La Tua Pelle (Sagasta, 26).

www.esmadrid.com

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SHOPPING

HITTING THE
MARKETS
A must for gourmets
Spain's cuisine is famous worldwide,
so it's no surprise that Madrid is one of
the best places to pick up some exquisite Spanish products. Your best bet is
to head down to San Miguel and San
Antón markets, where you can not only
fill your shopping basket, but also enjoy
all kinds of tapas, wines and desserts at
its well-presented stalls: the best way
to select your favourite products. If you
are looking for a more traditional market full of Madrid residents doing their
daily shopping then check out La Paz,
Chamartín or Chamberí markets, famous for the quality of their fish, meat,
vegetables and preserves.

UPSTAIRS, DOWNSTAIRS.
The San Antón Market in the
Chueca neighbourhood not
only contains stalls for daytime
shopping and wine and tapas
bars: upstairs there's a restaurant,
cocktail bar and terrace.

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www.esmadrid.com/en/restaurants-madrid

THE FRESHEST PRODUCTS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD
The renewed popularity of quality fruit and vegetable shops is
clear at Tomad Mucha Fruta, in the Salesas neighbourhood, an
establishment that has been serving local residents for almost a
century. Another similar shop, Vázquez, in Calle Ayala, will catch
your eye for the attractive way in which produce is displayed,
worthy of any of the nearby fashion shops. At Gold Gourmet,
Embassy or branches of Mallorca, among other gourmet venues you can purchase the most authentic delicatessen products.
These products are a great choice when preparing a picnic
to take to El Retiro Park.

MADRIDCARD
   
 . I  
    
,  ,
 
   
 .
www.madridcard.com

ANA ESCOBAR
@anaescobarayc
Director of the
agency Acción
y Comunicación

The best gastronomic experience.
Markets offering tasting sessions,
such as San Miguel and San Antõn,
as well as spaces such as El Corte
Ingles's Experience Gourmet. Where
to end an evening. Le Cabrera (Bárbara de Braganza, 2). Where can
you go to escape it all? Restaurante Lúa (Zurbano, 85). And if you
need to buy a gift? I go to the wine
shop LaTintorería (Marqués de Zafra,
35). They always help me pick the
right bottle. Your latest discovery.
Renovated El Coque (in Humanes) is
spectacular. The biggest temptation. Here you can be out drinking
cocktails until the early hours any
day of the week. The thing that still
surprises you most. The number of
new places that open every day. Madrid is a city that never stops.

www.esmadrid.com

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BACK TO MADRID'S ROOTS
Rediscovering the value of artisanal products
Madrid smells of violets - so much so, that
this flower forms part of its history and has
been declared the city's official aroma. You will
also see that it tastes of violets too, when you
try the classic sweets at La Violeta, in Plaza
de Canaletas. Another typical sweet product is
turrón, the traditional Spanish Christmas
nougat that can also be bought during the
rest of the year. Pastry shops such as Casa
Mira, El Horno de San Onofre and La Mallorquina are famous for their homemade pastries.
HAND MADE
Fans are one accessory that continues to attract followers, a fact supported by the existence of shops like Casa de Diego, famous for

STEEPED IN HISTORY.
On this page, Casa de
Diego; on the next page,
La Violeta and Casa Mira.
Three of the most iconic
stores in Madrid. In the
vicinity of Puerta del Sol.

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their hand made fans. But the traditional accessory par excellence is the Manila shawl,
which not only serves as a garment but is
also used to decorate street balconies during
celebrations. You can find true works of art
that wouldn't be out of place in a museum.
The iconic store Grassy, located on the
junction of Gran Vía and calle Alcalá, has a
façade that can claim to be one of the most
oſten depicted in images of the city, but it is
also one of Madrid's most historic jeweller's, to the point where it even has its own
antique watch museum.
www.esmadrid.com/en/shopping-madrid

GONZALO
FONSECA
Bag designer for
Steve Mono

A special hotel. Any with a terrace and views over the roofs of
Gran Vía, Alcalá... The best walk.
Hapsburg Madrid and Õpera. A
leisurely lunch. El Cocinillas
(San Joaquín, 3) and Le Patron
(Barco, 27). For a night out with
friends. Josealfredo (Silva, 22).
For a homemade treat. Casa Vega
(Toledo, 57). Where to go shopping. In Calle Fernando VI or Calle
Barquillo or rummaging in the flea
market. Madrid's biggest temptation. Going out for a beer.

MADRID SHOP
'  
    .
    
   
    
  
 .

* DON' T MISS *
»TRADITIONAL In La
Latina there are many century-old
businesses: shoe shops, basket
makers, leather workshops and
metalworkers.
»ANTIQUE In the Literary

Quarter you will find antique
bookshops that look like museums.

»MADE TO MEASURE

The sewing workshops, fabric
shops and haberdashery stores
never go out of fashion. Pontejos
is a classic, but there are many
more in the areas around Atocha
and Huertas.

www.esmadrid.com

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SHOPPING

MIRANDA
MAKAROFF
@mirandamakaroff
Designer, blogger,
socialite

A place to be seen. The Wall
(Corredera Baja de San Pablo, 47),
pure posing and fashion. An exquisite treat. The pastries at Delic
(Costanilla de San Andrés, 14). From
your brand. Benny Room (Conde
Xiquena, 17), sells sweaters that I
designed with my mum (mirandaforlydia.com). The best atmosphere.
In Malasaa. For shopping. The vintage shops on Calle Velarde. A real
find. Viva la vida (Costanilla de San
Andrés, 16), a vegetarian restaurant
with a mouthwatering buffet.

OUTLET CHIC Las Rozas Village
Half an hour from the centre, intelligent shoppers in search of style
at the best price take a trip out to Las Rozas Village. Designed to
represent a collage of international architectural styles, the centre
brings together an eclectic mix of more than 100 luxury outlet boutiques, with discounts of up to 60% offered all year round.
Spanish brands such as Adolfo Domínguez, Becara, Castañer and
Roberto Verino can be found alongside Spazio Dolce & Gabbana,
Armani Outlet, Burberry, Versace Company Store, Hugo Boss and
many more. The meticulous restoration of The Lobby Café and
the Shopping Express service (offering free transport from the
centre to the Village) make a trip to Las Rozas Village an unforgettable experience. For more information and timetables, visit:
www.LasRozasVillage.com/shoppingexpress.

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* ALL IN ONE *
»AZCA The shopping area of

Nuevos Ministerios is still one of
the most popular.

»GOYA Everything you need

within easy reach. A great variety
of brands and department stores.

»PRINCESA A magnificent,

pleasant shopping area which
isn't as crowded as some others.

»PRÍNCIPE PÍO The shopping centre contained in the old
Estaciõn del Norte also offers a
wide range of leisure and restaurant options.
SHOPPING

www.esmadrid.com

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WHAT’S ON: SHOPPING
>>>>>> GET ALL THE DETAILS ON www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid

HITTING THE SHOPS IN MADRID IS A CULTURAL PHENOMENON.
NO WONDER THE GROWING NUMBER OF EVENTS HAS TURNED
SHOPPING INTO A CELEBRATION.

Casa Decor
To live more stylishly
Every year the location changes for the
chosen venue (casadecor.com) – decorated
for this event – where renowned interior
designers, architects and landscapers
gather together.
>WHEN: May and June.
>DON'T MISS: An interesting mix of decoration,
architecture and design.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
The city becomes a catwalk
The capital's showcase for creations held at Feria de Madrid
has become the perfect opportunity to find out what Spanish
designers have to offer – from leading names to alternative
talent. This big date with fashion draws the attention of professionals from the world of style, as well as followers of the latest
trends. An intense week, celebrated twice a year, full of parallel events such as El Ego, dedicated to young, more cutting-edge
designers.
>WHEN: February and September. Feria de Madrid.

This is the most important international stage for
fashion design in Spain.

>THE KEY:

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Fashion's Night Out
Salamanca District
Fashion's Night Out is held simultaneously
in other cities, including London, Paris and
New York. Every year, more shops and visitors participate in this aſter-hours event.
>WHEN: September.
>WHERE: Triball and Salamanca take centre
stage on this special night.
DecorAcción
Literary Quarter
The antique dealers and interior designers of Huertas open their doors and the
whole neighbourhood throws itself
into an event that in just two editions has
become something unmissable. A true
household party that is also celebrated
in the open air, with a street market for
the occasion and special activities.
>WHEN:

September/October.

The whole
neighbourhood gets dressed up to show its
best side.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT:

WITH ART

Día de Mercado
At Casa de Campo
A novel initiative that already has its dedicated followers. This is your chance to buy
the finest seasonal products bearing
a quality label. Once a month, the agrifood companies of Madrid present the
best they have to offer at Casa de Campo.
Meats, oils, wines, cheeses, sweets,
fruits and vegetables, straight from the
countryside to the city.
>WHEN: First Saturday of every month.
>WHAT YOU'LL FIND: A wide selection of quality organic products.

FERIARTE

Art and antiques
fair featuring the
best antiques,
decorative arts
and paintings
from Spain and
abroad.
Feria de Madrid.
November.
ALMONEDA

San Jorge Juan
The arrival of summer
Madrid takes to the streets when the weather
warms up, and any occasion is worth celebrating. The shortest night of the year,
Midsummer's Eve, is celebrated with particular flair along Calle Jorge Juan and its side
streets, which are decked out in their finest
for the occasion. The area is closed to traffic so the public can come and enjoy its elegant shops, which stay open until late.
>WHEN: Midsummer's Eve, 23 June.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: So you can
celebrate the arrival of summer in the best
surroundings.

Antique dealers,
art galleries and
collectors fair.
With thousands of
amazing and affordable pieces.
Feria de Madrid.
April.
SPRING

Lovers of old
books flock to
the Antiquarian
and Second-Hand
Book Fair. Paseo
de Recoletos. May
and September/
October.

www.esmadrid.com

095
096

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"I usually go to
the Salamanca district
and Calle Fuencarral"
MARIBEL VERDÚ ACTRESS

Since she began her career as a teenager, she hasn't stopped working with the best: Francis Ford
Coppola, Guillermo del Toro, Alfonso Cuarón…

Where do you like to go shopping?
I usually go to the Salamanca and
Chueca areas and Calle Fuencarral.
Alone or with other people?
On my own. Unless it's food shopping,
then I'd rather go with other people
to help carry everything aſter.
If you came to Madrid as a tourist, what would you bring back
in your suitcase?
I would buy some delicious Iberian
pork loin, thinly sliced and vacuum
packed.
Do you like shopping in markets?
The new Mercado de San Antón is
a real find, just like Mercado de San
Miguel and Mercado de la Paz on
Calle Ayala; all three are amazing
and it's something a bit different to
go shopping there and sample some
tasty food at the same time.
Your soſt spot for the theatre
goes beyond being on stage.

What do you recommend as an
audience member?
An innovative place such as Microteatro por dinero (Loreto y
Chicote, 9). I also go to the Teatro
Maravillas oſten, which always
has a great programme (Manuela
Malasaña, 6).
Which parks are your favourites?
Above all, El Retiro. It's a place that
really makes me feel alive. I live very
close by as well and stroll around it
all throughout the year, because it
changes a lot from one season to
the next; in springtime I go with a
towel, a book and headphones and
spend hours there.
What other green spaces do you
like to wander around?
The rose garden at Parque del
Oeste is a wonderful spot, and
the Royal Botanical Gardens is a
must-visit if you come to Madrid,
as it's such a peaceful place. Even
though they don't charge much for
entry, there aren't many people
there and you can hear the quiet.

Which places in Madrid make
you nostalgic?
I like to go down to Paseo de Rosales, walk to the cable car (if
you ride it you can see a different
Madrid), then go to the Temple of
Debod and from there enjoy the
magical Madrid sunset, which has
an intensity I haven't seen anywhere else.
And which galleries do you recommend?
Those in and around Calle Barquillo
and Calle Augusto Figueroa are very
beautiful and the neighbourhood is
nice. Then there are the ones along
Calle Claudio Coello and Villanueva
which are truly impressive.
Let's finish with a bite to eat.
I love a classic like Rafa, on Calle
Narváez, but I'm also taken by places like Arzábal (Menéndez Pelayo,
13), La Manduca de Azagra (Sagasta, 14) and Nina (Manuela
Malasaña, 10), as I'm a fan of their
menus and the weekend brunch,
which is simply to die for.

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097
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Twitter @mapfrefcultura
FUN & GAMES
100-120

EXPERIENCE SPORT DURING THE DAY AND DON'T
MISS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN THE SUN GOES DOWN.

SPORT:
100101 BERNABÉU AND CALDERÓN
102 IF YOU ARE INTO SPORTS
103 ALL EYES ON THE WATER
104 WHAT'S ON
105 INTERVIEW Alejandro Blanco
SHOWS:
106 GRAN VÍA
107 PURE THEATRE
108 EVERY KIND OF MUSIC
109 BIG SCREENS
110 WHAT'S ON
111 INTERVIEW Carlos Rivera
NIGHT:
112113 OUTDOOR CAFÉS
114115 ALL NIGHT LONG
116 THE VERY BEST FLAMENCO
117 TRADITIONAL CRAFTS
118 POPULAR 'FIESTAS'
119 DISTRICT MAPS
120 INTERVIEW Charles Ross
FUN & GAMES
Play with us

MADRID IS LIVING A PERMANENT ROMANCE WITH SPORT,
IN ALL ITS DISCIPLINES. GET READY TO CHEER ON SOME OF THE
BEST FOOTBALL TEAMS IN THE WORLD.

BERNABÉU AND CALDERÓN A question of colours
The people of Madrid are passionate about
sport of any kind, with football considered the
undisputed king. This isn’t surprising given that
its two big teams move genuine masses with
every game. The atmosphere on the Paseo de
la Castellana is electrifying whenever Real Madrid plays at home. The Santiago Bernabéu
stadium bristles with excitement as the team

100

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–comprising some of the world’s best players–
comes out onto the pitch. You can also watch
Real Madrid as a spectator during their training
sessions at the Valdebebas Sports City (check
their website to find out which days they open to
the public: www.realmadrid.es) or take a tour of
the stadium to discover some of the Bernabéu’s
hidden nooks and crannies.
A FOOTBALL FAN’S
DREAM. Outside the
Bernabéu or inside the
Vicente Calderón. Right:
the Atlético Madrid
Museum and Real
Madrid’s café.

“ATLETI” AND “RAYO”
Madrid’s other top team is Atlético de Madrid. Atlético’s fans (or the
“red and whites” as they are popularly known) congregate at the
other end of the city to watch their team play at the Vicente Calderón stadium. Considered to be among the best supporters in the
world, they can watch their team, Atleti, from a privileged spot on the
banks of Madrid Rio Park. A setting that combines sport, leisure,
a family atmosphere, as well as a strong desire to win. Although
a more humble club by comparison, Rayo Vallecano has achieved
promotion to the Primera División (the Spanish Premier League).
Madrid, three-times represented in the best Liga in the world.

www.esmadrid.com/en/football

COMING SOON
   
    
   
, 
  - 
  
’ 
.

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101
www.esmadrid.com/en/parks-madrid

JUANMA LÓPEZ
ITURRIAGA
@Palomero14
Sports commentator

A spot in the city. Plaza de Cibeles.
A location encompassing both history
and modernity. A bite to eat? Hermanos ¸lvarez. Affordable seafood
(Ricardo San Juan, 20) The best view.
From the rooftop café of the Puerta
de América Hotel (Av. América, 41).
The best place for sport? The classic
place is Casa de Campo Park. Where
to watch it? In the Sports Palace in
Goya. An intimate place. For me, it
is Café de Belén (Belén, 5). For the
best tapas. At La Toledana (Comandante Zorita, 31).

IF YOU ARE INTO SPORTS...
Running or riding a bike
Cycling is one of the best ways to practice sport and enjoy
the city, thanks to the vast number of kilometres devoted to it.
The 64 km-long green ring circles the entire city; you can test
your stamina by attempting to complete it. For a gentle stroll,
two excellent options are Madrid Rio and the Linear Park of the
Manzanares River, which stretches southwards from the river.
For those who prefer the exhilaration of the mountain bike,
Casa de Campo or Monte del Pardo provide superb conditions,
with slightly sandy soil, no mud and exciting circuits. If your
favourite sport is running, as well as the places mentioned
above, El Retiro, Oeste, Juan Carlos I and Tierno-Galván-Planetarium parks are all perfect locations.

ON YOUR MARKS
  , 
   
   , 
 :   
(  )  
  (
   
 )

102

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TIME TO GET FIT. By
bike in the Madrid Rio
river park or canoeing on
the lake in El Retiro.
*MORE SPORT*
»GOLF In Madrid you can practice your swing at the Olivar de la
Hinojosa course, at the National
Golf Centre and at the Puerta de
Hierro club, amongst others.
»RUNNING On many

weekends, 10 km races and half
marathons are held around the
city, open to anyone who wants
to participate. No matter how
old, fit or well-trained you are,
taking part is what is important.

»SKATEBOARDING A num-

ber of skateboarding parks are
scattered around the city to allow
youngsters (or the not so young)
to practice their somersaults on
the skateboard. Those in Madrid
Rio and in the Agustín Rodríguez
Sahagún Park (Tetuán district) are
the most notable.

ALL EYES ON THE WATER
The most refreshing sports
Physiotherapists always recommend swimming as the best exercise to strengthen your back. In Madrid you can submerge yourself in a heated pool and practice your strokes at several private gyms or at any of the many municipal sports centres, which
open their outdoor pools in summer. Another sport growing in
popularity is canoeing. The lakes of El Retiro and Casa de Campo, and the Manzanares river, are perfect places for learning and
practicing. You can row on many of the reservoirs in the Region
of Madrid –Valmayor, El Atazar, San Juan and Pedrezuela–, where
you can also hire a sailing boat.

»SKATING You can go
ice-skating in the Ice Palace all
year round except in the summer.
Outdoors, anywhere is suitable,
although the paved walkways
of Madrid Rio are a continuous
coming and going of skaters
everyday, who, if they wish, can
continue into the adjoining Linear
Park of the Manzanares River.
»ROCK-CLIMBING

Climbers can often be seen
scaling the walls in Calle Segovia
on the corner with Atenas Park.
If you prefer an indoor location,
the spectacular recently opened
Roc 30 rock-climbing wall in
Madrid Rio draws both novice
and expert climbers.

www.esmadrid.com

103
WHAT’S ON:SPORTS
>>>>>>

CATCH UP WITH ALL THE DETAILS AT www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid

MADRID HAS AN INTENSE RELATIONSHIP WITH SPORT.
FANS ARE PASSIONATE ABOUT EVERY ONE OF THE
NUMEROUS EVENTS.

The countdown
to the BBVA League
Madrid is the province most highly represented in the BBVA League with four
teams in First Division (Real Madrid, Atlético, Rayo Vallecano and Getafe). The
face-off between Atlético Madrid and Real
Madrid supporters promises to be a cliffhanger. An endurance race that both clubs
have to fit in with their European competition commitments.
>WHEN: Until

the middle of May.

>WHY YOU SHOULDN’T MISS IT: Cristiano

Ronaldo
and company will fight to revalidate the title.

ALSO
HANDBALL

Madrid is one of
the host cities for
the World Men's
Handball Championship. Matches
will be played in
the Caja Mágica
stadium. From 12 to
27 January 2013.
LA VUELTA A
ESPA³A BIKE RACE

The whole city takes
to the streets, giving
the impression of
a popular festival,
to cheer on the
cyclists as they speed
down Paseo de la
Castellana racing
towards the finishing
line. September.
MAPOMA

The Rock ‘n’ Roll
Marathon of
Madrid promises to
be an unforgettable
party. April 28, 2013.

Basketball
Whites against blues
Come and share in the excitement of the Real Madrid
basketball team matches, especially if these are played against Estudiantes, the local rival, against whom
they compete in the major competitions.
>WHEN: Every weekend.
>FOR WHOM: There are legions of Spanish basketball fans,
many of whom live in Madrid.

104

A day at the races
Galloping emotions
At Madrid’s racecourse there is much more to do besides watching the races and placing a bet. During
the races in the summer evenings, the outdoor bar becomes a hotspot for people to hang out.
>WHEN: From March.
>WHAT IS THERE TO SEE? The passion of the races and live
betting, and beautiful people enjoying a drink.

www.esmadrid.com
“Madrid is much more
than just football”
ALEJANDRO BLANCO
SPANISH OLYMPIC COMMITTEE CHAIRMAN

Already experienced as president of the Spanish Olympic Committe, he is now heading
Madrid's 2020 Olympic bid.
What sports infrastructures
can Madrid boast about?
It has some splendid sports facilities
for practicing and watching sport,
and it is one of the major world capitals for event organisation.
Is Madrid about more than just
football?
Much more. And there are thousands

of clubs and thousands of competitions in other disciplines held every
weekend to prove it.
Which is your favourite location for practicing sport?
Whenever I can I like to run outdoors in parks like Parque del Oeste,
Casa de Campo or Madrid Río.
Unfortunately I don’t have much

time, so I usually practise sport in
hotel gyms.
Can you recommend a restaurant to restore our energy?
That’s difficult. Madrid has something for everyone’s taste.
A favourite place for complete
relaxation?
The sunsets at the Temple of Debod. I could see them for many
years from my office when I was
the chairman of the Spanish Judo
Federation, and it helped me to
concentrate.
What has been your latest discovery in Madrid?
The Madrid Rio river park, a giant
space for Madrid residents to use
and enjoy, with all kinds of sports
facilities to add to the already extensive offer in the capital.

www.esmadrid.com

105
A SHOW. An actor from The
Lion King. Other options:
the listings for the Fernán
Goméz (above) and the
Canal theatres.

GRAN VÍA The soundtrack to Madrid
Quite some time ago Madrid’s Gran Vía
became the main drag for musicals in
the whole of Spain. There isn’t a production worth its salt that hasn’t previously
been staged on one of its many theatres,
before touring the rest of the country.
Some arrive directly from Broadway,
but there is also an excellent variety of
home-grown productions reasserting the
music and icons of several generations
of Spaniards. If you attend a musical in
Madrid, you’ll probably be stepping inside one of the enormous theatres on
the Gran Vía. Outside they glitter with
brightly coloured neon lights, but inside
a panoply of equipment and skill is deployed.

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BEYOND GRAN VÍA
The boom of the musical genre in Madrid and
the huge number of theatres and venues available for staging and performing great productions has oſten lead to the shows transferring to other locations beyond the Gran Vía.
Occasionally, though increasingly, the Nuevo
Apolo theatre (in Plaza de Tirso de Molina)
puts on this type of show. As does the Caser
Calderón (in Plaza de Jacinto Benavente), and
the Nuevo Teatro Alcalá (in Calle Jorge Juan,
Salamanca district). Children’s musical productions are oſten performed at the Teatro
Arenal (Calle Arenal, next to Puerta del Sol).

www.esmadrid.com/en/musicals-madrid
FERNAN GÓMEZ
  
  
   
   ,
   
, 
  ’
.

PURE THEATRE
The city’s (many) stages
Steeped in theatre tradition, Madrid is home to a large
number of venues staging a wide and varied selection of productions: from the novelty Teatros del Canal and Matadero’s
Las Naves del Español to Teatro Español on bustling Plaza
Santa Ana and Teatro María Guerrero hidden away in Las
Salesas district. The city’s most long-established theatres
include Teatro Lara, Teatro La Latina and Teatro Infanta
Isabel. If you fancy watching an old classic head to Teatro
Pavón, or if you're in the mood for circus then Teatro Circo Price is your best bet. As its name suggests, Teatro de
la Zarzuela specializes in zarzuelas, or Spanish operettas,
whereas Teatro Real is the venue for operas. For big fans of
contemporary theatre, Madrid hosts the Festival Escena Contemporánea in January and February.

*ALTERNATIVE STAGES*
»MICROTEATRO POR DINERO (MICROTHEATRE FOR MONEY) A unique experience has

opened its doors to young playwrights in Triball, where
actors and directors offer spectators short theatre
performances à la carte.

»KUBRICK FABRIK Opened barely a year ago in
the Usera district, this is a venue for artistic creation
where theatre and dance go hand in hand.

»LA USINA Located in Arganzuela, this is a small

theatre come academy which attempts to combine innovative efforts to offer an open door for new creators.

»LA ESCALERA DE JACOB At street level it
appears to be a bar, but the theatrical venue in the basement offers all kinds of performances. In Lavapiés.
»AZARTE Three small theatres for plays, rehearsals
and workshops distributed over 260 square metres in
this theatre in Chueca.

www.esmadrid.com

107
MXdrXd Rxxx

MAGICAL EVENINGS. An
enthusiastic crowd during
one of the performances at
Music Day. Right: entrance to
the Princesa Cinema which
shows films in their original
language.

EVERY KIND OF MUSIC
Madrid sounds good
When the sun sets, live music permeates the city air,
as top-class concerts are held on a nearly daily basis.
All the best bands include Madrid on their tours; it is
definitely a required stop for their live promotion. They
visit both small venues as well as large stadiums
where the international stars are always welcomed
with great expectation. Since 2006, Music Day has
been held on 21 June, a day when Madrid celebrates
with a packed weekend schedule of concerts.
SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE
With regards to musical styles, Madrid is a mirror of the
world. The Veranos de la Villa festival is enthusiastically welcomed each year with its impressive night time cycles. Classical and choral music as well as the best soundtracks are performed at the National Auditorium.
Private venues such as the Juan March Foundation or
the courtyard in La Casa Encendida put on classical
music concerts as well as the most avant-garde or electronic musical performances. The city is filled with the
sound of jazz during the International Festival (November), and flamenco during the Suma Flamenca event.

108

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ENRIQUE
CALABUIG
Partner Music2day,
Music Day Organiser

A special place in the city. Gran
Vía, a very Madrid-style meeting place where everyone feels welcome.
And for chilling out? A stroll in Retiro Park. Where can you listen to
the best concerts? In the Price, 'Music Hall' of Madrid. Plus, of course,
on the festival stages in the Matadero. Post-concert plans. Carry on
dancing till I drop in Costello, Sol or
La Ruta. Latest discovery. Around
Jorge Juan and Serrano. Your latest
discovery. The Hotel ADA terrace,
a fantastic surprise. If it only had
concerts...
BIG SCREENS
The capital of original language cinemas
Flashes, crowds, famous actors, a red carpet and thousands of
onlookers in front of a brightly lit marquee. An event that might be
seen any week in Plaza del Callao, the chosen location for major film
premieres in Spain. If you prefer your films in their original language,
make your way to Martín de los Heros –and the recently inaugurated
Paseo de las Estrellas (Walk of Fame), devoted to the stars of
Spanish cinema– and the neighbouring Plaza de los Cubos. Original
version films are also screened at the Ideal cinema, with its fantastic
glasswork façade, in Plaza de Jacinto Benavente, at the Verdi cinema
in Chamberí, and at the big screens of the Cine Cité multiplex in Manoteras. Once again Madrid proves why it is the capital of Spain.
CLASSICS AND RARE FILMS
The Filmoteca, in the legendary Cine Doré, screens classic and
rare films. During the summer months, it is impossible to avoid
the big outdoor screens in La Bombilla and Tierno Galván parks,
as well as those mounted for the film festivals of Documenta
Madrid in May and LesGaiCineMad in November.

GRAN VÒA
01. Plaza de Espaa
02. Callao
03. Triball
04. Preciados
05. Red de San Luis

06. Plaza de
Vázquez de Mella
07. Fine Arts Circle
08. Puerta del Sol

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109
WHAT’S ON: SHOWS
>>>>>>

CATCH UP WITH ALL THE DETAILS AT www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid

WHEN YOU COME TO VISIT MADRID YOU WILL DISCOVER A
CITY BRIMMING WITH VITALITY AND A PROGRAMME FULL
OF ATTRACTIVE EVENTS, WHATEVER YOUR PREFERENCES.

Autumn to Spring
Festival Venues
The 30th Autumn to Spring Festival,
which kicked off in October 2012, is set to
be extended up until June 2013. This is an
exceptional opportunity to enjoy contemporary theatre, dance, music and circus
in a single festival set entirely in the capital.
An event that changes format to adapt to
new times and offer the very best performing arts programme all year round.
>WHEN: From

31 October 2012 to 9 June
2013. Various venues.
>YOU CAN´T MISS THIS: International artists.

ALSO
MOZART'S DON
GIOVANNI

Comic opera in
two acts produced
jointly by Teatro
Real opera house
and the Aix-enProvence Festival.
With musical
direction by Alejo
Pérez and Dmitri
Tcherniakov as stage director. From 3
to 24 April 2013.
DOCUMENTA
MADRID

Of all the Madrid
film festivals, this
one, dedicated to
documentaries,
brings in the largest
number of spectators. From 5 to 12
May, 2013.
GOSPEL

The Festival of
Gospel and Black
Spiritual music,
a must-see event,
generates a festive
atmosphere in the
run up to Christmas. At the Teatro
Fernán Gõmez.
December.
TALENT MADRID

Suma Flamenca
Top figures
One of the best festivals of its kind in
the world could only happen in Madrid.
With the Teatros del Canal as the main
venue, it returns to Madrid in 2013 for its
8th edition.
>WHEN: June and July.
>FOR WHOM: Connoisseurs and enthusiasts.

110

Music Day
Don’t stop the beat
The success of the previous years has consolidated this event at which you can hear
the latest music on the stages of the Matadero and Circo Price.
>WHEN: June.
>WHAT’S PLAYING? The latest hits by Spanish
and international pop and rock groups.

www.esmadrid.com

A new festival that
aims to provide
a launch pad for
original performing arts works
from all disciplines. At Teatros
del Canal. From
21 February to 2
March 2013.
“The sky over Madrid
is what inspires me”
CARLOS RIVERA ACTOR AND SINGER

He relocated from Mexico to Madrid to
star in the musical ‘The Lion King’, a big
hit on Gran Vía.
@_CarlosRivera

How does it feel to be the king
of Gran Vía?
It’s pretty cool. Especially because of the lovely palace where I live
with my pride, the Teatro Lope de
Vega.
Which places do you recommend to your friends when
they come to Madrid?
El Retiro park is always one of my
favourite places to visit.
Name some places that make you
feel as if you were in Mexico.
In Tepic (Pelayo, 4) and La Mordida (Belén, 13), in Chueca.
Any suggestions for a great
night out with friends?
You’d never guess that our favourite place is a karaoke in an underground car park.

Is there a place in Madrid that
invites you to sing and dance?
The place I mentioned in my previous answer. It’s called Master
Plató! (Plaza de los Mostenses,
s/n).
Have you found a special place
that inspires you?
The view I have of the sky over
Madrid from my flat, and the
beautiful buildings along Gran Vía.
Have you had an opportunity to
go shopping? Where?
Yes, around Serrano. And Fuencarral also has some great outlets.
What has surprised you most
about Madrid?
That it is a city with such a busy
social life, at all times of the day
or night.

www.esmadrid.com

111
OUTDOOR CAFÉS Open all year
That Madrid stands for life on the
streets is nothing new, and that one of
the best ways to relax outside is to enjoy a drink and a tap in one of the city’s
outdoor cafés is also no secret. Shaded
by parasols in the summer, and sheltered by roofs in the winter, there are
some legendary locations where to sit
and enjoy the bustling atmosphere, morning, evening and night: in La Latina
district or Lavapiés or in the cafés on
such squares as Santa Ana, San Ildefonso, Santa Bárbara, Dos de Mayo,
Vázquez de Mella and Chueca. Some
have magnificent views: for example,
those lining Paseo de Recoletos at the
start of the Castellana, like El Espejo
terrace with its pretty modernist dining

AL FRESCO. Good
weather ensures that
you can sit out on the
outdoor cafés through
most of the year,
including those in Plaza
Santa Ana.

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room; at the Café Oriente facing the Royal Palace and next door to the Teatro
Real; the Atenas Park and the recently
opened cafés in Madrid Rio.
QUIETER CAFÉS
Other venues are more suitable for a relaxed chat. Head towards Calle Serrano
for example, or the Fine Arts Circle, or
make your way over to Plaza de Olavide and around Príncipe Pío. At the weekend and for family outings the outdoor
tables and chairs in the Casa de Campo
are ideal. But don’t fret too much: you’ll
find one on almost every corner.

A BREAK
   
    
    
  . 
  
  
 
 .
A BIRD’S EYE VIEW. From
one end of the city to the other,
three places to have drinks and
fun: the terraces at Gau Café
and at the Silken Puerta de
América and Urban hotels.

*FROM ABOVE*
»URBAN One of the most

popular outdoor bars in the late
evenings and at night. Magnificent views over the Spanish parliament building in the Huertas
district, in the hotel of the same
name.

»THE ROOF This is the Hotel

Me’s roof terrace, in Plaza Santa
Ana. Cosmopolitan atmosphere,
chic clientele, great cocktails...

»HOTEL ADA Located at the
start of the Gran Vía with spectacular views over the avenue and
its most emblematic buildings. It
is also possible to dine here.
»GAU CAFÉ In the building

of the former Pious Schools,
today the offices of the UNED
open university, in the heart of
the Lavapiés district. Curious,
different, largely undiscovered.
And affordable.

»SKYNIGHT Located at the

top of Hotel Silken Puerta de
América. If this entire hotel is
pure design, then the five spaces
that make up this exclusive terrace are no less stylish.

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113
STRONG BEATS. Iboga
nightclub, where the
emphasis is on world
music. Opposite Tartufo
and the owners of Siroco.

ALL NIGHT LONG from one day till the next
Part of Madrid’s culture and character
derives from its nightlife when the clubs not
only generate ambience and fun, but also
culture with their great music. In this city,
you can cross the road and go from ballroom
dancing in an old-time dance hall to a
hang-out with the public in thrall to club culture. Remember the distinction between establishments as you organise your night out:
bars and cafés open until 3 in the morning;
clubs and aſterhours carry on until dawn.
CHOOSE ME
Begin the evening with some live music: jazz,
salsa, rock... there are venues for small or large audiences. If you prefer something quieter,
opt for an indoor or outdoor chill-out zone.

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GETTING AROUND
AT NIGHT
  (
   ) 
 
    
.   
  
  
. ..

Cocktails are a popular choice from early evening. Later, the choice of bars widens, and it
becomes a question of preferences, whether
its chatting, dancing or singing.
It’s up to you: mixing with the in-crowd in Las
Salesas; with the young and informal around
Bilbao and Alonso Martínez; frequenting the
traditional bars in the Salamanca district
or around the Bernabéu; joining the university crowd around Moncloa; an eclectic setting
in Chueca; a lively international atmosphere
around Huertas; the alternative scene in Lavapiés; or rock-punk-kitsch-indie music in the
inexhaustible “movida” ambience of Malasaña.
BELÉN CHANES
Manager of the Ocho
y Medio club

A restaurant for a leisurely lunch?
Xin (Manuela Malasaa, 5). They
have infinite patience with people
like me and my friends. After a night
out on the town? Iberia (Glorieta
Ruíz Jiménez, 4) Your favourite
concert venue? El Sol, where you
can both see and touch (Jardines, 3)
A shop to buy gifts? Two: Curiosite (Corredera Alta de San Pablo, 28)
and Víctimas del Celuloide (Santiago, 8). The best place to end
an evening? I work at weekends;
on weekdays, Toni 2 never lets you
down (Almirante, 9).

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115
CANTE JONDO
The very best flamenco
The fine performances by flamenco artists long ago made Madrid a visitor
attraction for Spanish and overseas flamenco lovers. June is the month for the
acclaimed festival Suma Flamenca,
featuring outstanding flamenco singers,
guitarists and dancers, who will be performing their art in emblematic settings
around the capital.
SINGING, DANCING AND GUITARS
You can find the best interpretation of flamenco dancing in its purest form, accompanied by guitars and hand-clapping, at
Casa Patas (calle de los Cañizares, 10), a
name associated with the best flamenco
art which has established its own Flamenco Conservatory. Other famed venues include Café de Chinitas in the Opera district, El Corral de la Morería in Vistillas
and Las Carboneras just behind Calle
Mayor. All include a meal with the show.

116

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www.esmadrid.com/en/night-madrid

TRADITIONAL CRAFTS Start tapping your heels
Aſter a stimulating evening at a tablao
or flamenco bar, you may want to try this
passionate dancing for yourself. There
are several places that will teach you
the basic first steps on request. One is
the traditional academy Amor de Dios,
situated on the top floor of the Antón
Martín market building (in the district of
the same name in the city centre). You
don’t need an appointment or to sign up
for an entire course. The only prerequisite
if you want to start learning the art of
clicking your heels is to bring a pair of
shoes. You don’t need to go far to acquire

them: Don Flamenco, just a few streets
away, is dedicated exclusively to making
hand-made flamenco footwear.
LEONARD COHEN’S GUITAR
Ten minutes away, opposite the Teatro
Real, artisan guitar makers at Felipe
Conde (the establishment where musician Leonard Cohen bought his flamenco
guitar 40 years ago) can boast of making the best guitars since 1915.

A DEEP-ROOTED
TRADITION. Workshop
in the Felipe Conde
shop specialised in
flamenco guitars. Left:
performance at the
Suma Flamenca festival.

DID YOU KNOW?
    
   
  .
   ,
   
   
,   
  ( 
 ).

ANTONIO
NAJARRO
Director of the Spanish National Ballet

What in Madrid would you recommend to your friends? The summer
concerts in the Sabatini Gardens.
Which place inspires you most?
Paseo del Prado. A traditional corner of Madrid. La Capilla de la Bolsa
restaurant (La Bolsa, 12). Another
which is sheer avant-garde. The hotel Eurostars Madrid Tower (Paseo de
la Castellana, 259B). Where can we
find you shopping? In Flip (Mayor,
19) or along Calle Fuencarral. What
do you like most about Madrid? Its
friendly and welcoming people.

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117
POPULAR 'FIESTAS'
In the company of “chulapos” and “manolas”
When the fiestas come around, the
streets fill with food stalls and improvised musical stages, while the bars
bring their counters out on to the
streets. Dressed as “chulapos” (the
local residents of Maravillas or Malasaña) and “manolos” (those from
Lavapiés), Madrilenians come out
to celebrate the most traditional of
festivals, alongside whoever wishes
to join them.
SAN ISIDRO FESTIVITIES
For Madrid's patron saint's day, in
the middle of May, the festivities
and celebrations cross over to the
other side of the Manzanares river to
the district of Carabanchel to celebrate the fiesta on the fields of San
Isidro. If you have never seen it before, don’t miss the choirs and groups
giving live performances of Madridthemed zarzuelas (light operas) and

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dancing the typical local dance, the
chotis. Great fun. In August, Lavapiés celebrates its traditional festivities in honour of San Lorenzo
and San Cayetano. Wander through
the narrow illuminated streets bedecked with Manila shawls for a spectacle that you can only see here.
FESTIVAL OF LA PALOMA
These festivities celebrate another of
Madrid’s patron saints, this time
in August. The festive atmosphere
extends to the streets adjoining the
church devoted to this virgin (in La
Latina), from the church of San Francisco el Grande to Plaza de la Cebada. The celebrations for youngsters,
including concerts, are held in Las
Vistillas and in Cornisa park.

NEW YEAR
   
    
     
   
  . 
   
,  
  
 , 
.

www.esmadrid.com/en/san-isidro
www.esmadrid.com

119
“They serve the best
G&Ts in the world here”
CHARLES ROSS BUSINESSMAN

In love with Madrid, he travels the world promoting
his latest creation, Fever-Tree premium tonic.
In your opinion, which is
the best all-round hotel in
Madrid?
El Único (Claudio Coello, 67).
It’s perfect for accommodation,
meetings and excellent food.
The Villa Magna (Paseo Castellana, 22) and Urban (San Jerónimo, 34) are sheer luxury. The
architectural design and the
rooſtop terrace of the Puerta
América (Av. América, 41) never cease to amaze me.
Where do you like to go for
an appetizer?
The markets are great places,
for example San Antón (Augusto Figueroa, 24) or San Miguel
(Plaza San Miguel). Another
great option is the Hapsburg
district.
A place for good tapas?
Casa Lucas (Cava Baja, 30), La
Perejila (Cava Baja, 25), la Taberna de Goyo (Cava Baja, 34),
La Bardemcilla (Augusto Figueroa, 47), Casa Botín (Cuchilleros, 17)… Their tapas are all

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a delight for the tastebuds. Not
to mention El Atómico (Meléndez Valdés, 58). They serve the
best potato salad.
A restaurant for a leisurely
lunch?
El Urrechu (Barlovento, 1),
Alkalde (Jorge Juan, 10) or Goizeko Wellington (Villanueva, 34),
especially if, like me, you love
Basque cuisine. For an oriental
flavour, Sushi 99 (Ponzano, 99).
An aſternoon gin & tonic?
There are so many places!
O’Clock (Juan Bravo, 25), Urban, Le Cabrera (Bárbara de
Braganza, 2), The Gin Room
(Academia, 7)… Spain is the
country that makes the best
G&Ts in the world.
Where do you prefer to
spend a great night with
friends?
There are also many places:
Serrano 41, Moma (José Abascal, 56), Fortuny (Fortuny, 34),
Teatro Real (Pza. Isabel II) The
Fine Arts Circle (Alcalá, 42).
AS A FAMILY
122-132

FROM ATTRACTIONS AND GAMES
TO EXHIBITIONS AND MYSTERIES
FOR KIDS AND ADULTS OF ALL AGES.

122 BIG THRILLS
123 GREAT SHOWS
124125 SPORTING PASSIONS
126127 ACCESSIBLE SCIENCE
128 A SPECIAL PROGRAMME
129 MYSTERIES AND LEGENDS
130131 INTERVIEW Carolina Herrera
132 WHAT'S ON
AS A FAMILY

Fun for all ages

THERE IS A MADRID ESPECIALLY
FOR KIDS, OFFERING COUNTLESS
ACTIVITIES TO BE ENJOYED BY YOUR
CHILDREN, NIECES AND NEPHEWS, OR
GRANDCHILDREN. BUT BE CAREFUL:
THEY'LL WANT TO COME BACK.

BIG THRILLS At Casa de Campo
Do you want to really amaze the children? Thrills
are guaranteed at Madrid's Parque de Atracciones
amusement park and, in particular, on the Starflyer, which involves a 20-storey free fall! When
you begin to feel the heat, cool off with a splash
on the Fjords, Rapids and Sawmill water rides. At
night, you can take a ride on the Big Wheel and
contemplate Madrid from a height. At the
Warner Bros Park, which competes with the
Parque de Atracciones to see which can offer the
most devious loops, you can find some of your
favourite cartoon characters, life-sized. Go and
be amazed by the animals at the Zoo-Aquarium,

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along with cute creatures such as Panda cubs
Po and De De, who are already two years old. Another tip: don’t miss the sea lions’ show.
FROM THE POLES TO THE MANGROVES
At Faunia visitors can immerse themselves in exotic ecosystems recreated in detail, including the African jungle, North and South Poles, and mangroves.
The park is both a zoo and a botanical garden.
MADRID
FROM ABOVE
  
   
,     
    
    
 ,
 
 .

BIG THRILLS. At the
Parque de Atracciones,
the Abismo rollercoaster
reaches 100 km/h. On the
right: jugglers show off
their tricks at the renovated
Teatro Circo Price, now a
multipurpose venue.

GREAT SHOWS For all audiences
Well-known and loved fairy tales and
films in the forms of musicals are also
very popular with young audiences. The
Lion King, Cinderella and The Sound of
Music are just some of the shows that
make for a truly unforgettable evening
of singing and dancing. All other theatre
genres for the little ones, such as puppet
shows, clowns, storytelling can also be
enjoyed both in matinée and evening
sessions at venues throughout Madrid.
The Teatro Circo Price is a multipurpose
venue staging shows for all the family. This

www.esmadrid.com/en/children-madrid

space, very different to a traditional circus,
is designed to be enjoyed above all by children, although adults will also be amazed
by the spectacle. Every year, the best specialists participate in its Christmas programme. These experts also pass on their
skills in workshops. Here you can witness
the most innovative and surprising artistic movements and learn from the experts
who pass on their skills in workshops.

www.esmadrid.com

123
SO MUCH
IN PLAY
  
   
   
   
  
.

SPORTING PASSIONS Goooaaal!
With 9 Champions League Cups and 32 Spanish Liga titles under its belt, Real Madrid has won more awards than any other
club in history. A tour of the Bernabéu allows you to get right to the
heart of the stadium, sit on the benches and tread the pitch. At
Atlético de Madrid's stadium more than 1,000 historical items are
on display; Rayo Vallecano's stadium sings the praises of the epic
survivors; and the Spanish team's stadium, in Las Rozas, celebrates
their World Cup win in South Africa.
START THE ENGINES
A rally legend, Carlos Sainz gives his name to one of the most spectacular go-karting circuits around. And at the Palacio de Hielo (only
closed in the summer) you can enjoy some great ice-skating on an
Olympic-sized rink.

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*AL FRESCO*
»MADRID RÍO The city's
new green avenue offers BMX
tracks, rollerblading and skating,
a climbing wall and much more.
»SNOW ZONE The Xanadú

shopping centre boasts the only
indoor ski slope in Spain (A-5
road, Arroyomolinos).

» PICNIC Madrid's main green
areas, like Casa de Campo, Monte del Pardo and Dehesa la Villa,
have picnic tables where families
can enjoy outdoor eating.
www.esmadrid.com/en/sports-madrid

LAURA CEBALLOS
@GreyElephantMad
Director of the
children's centre
Grey Elephant

A place to have a meal/snack with the
kids. For a meal San Miguel Market or
Harina in Puerta de Alcalá, and for an
afternoon snack: churros at San Ginés.
A park that gives them space to play.
Plaza de Oriente, near the Palace and
the Teatro Real. They can play on the
swings until they are tired and learn the
names of the Visigoth kings. The most
fascinating museum for children. The
Prado or the Archaeological Museum
which is currently being refurbished.
And if you need to buy a gift? The
sweets made by nuns available at Jardín
del Convento (Cordõn, 1).

FUN. The pandas Po and
De De born at the Zoo
Aquarium, and the riverside
park Madrid Río. On the
previous page, the Real
Madrid Museum at the
Bernabéu Stadium.

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125
MXdrXd Rxxx

ACCESSIBLE SCIENCE Learning through play
Enjoying yourself while you learn: that's the
way education should be, and in Madrid
many centres know how to make this happen. Starting with a classic, we have the National Museum of Natural Science, where
dinosaur skeletons are the main attraction.
At the National Museum of Science and
Technology we can learn about the world's
greatest inventions - including many from
Spain. The Museum of Anthropology offers a thrilling journey into the past, as does
the Archaeological Museum. The first
makes a call for tolerance and respect for

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others, while the second reveals keys to history seen through other eyes.
BEYOND THE STARS
At CosmoCaixa, science is brought to visitors
through play, even with the most abstract concepts. At the Planetarium we can see beyond
the stars. Meanwhile, the Imax cinema shows
3D documentaries reproducing black holes
and stellar explosions.
CRISTINA CASTRO
@jristina
Director of the
magazine On Madrid

A must. Lunch or a picnic at El Retiro
Park. An experience. The children's
sessions at Microteatro por Dinero.
To eat. Le Pain Quotidien and La
Cocinita de Chamberí (Trafalgar,
12). Madrid's best-kept secret. The
children's events at the libraries. For
shopping. Cool Kids (Antonio Acua,
10), Bebés de Chamberí (Gonzalo
Cõrdoba, 7) and Baby Deli (various
branches).

240

METEORITES

On display at the
National Museum of
Natural Science. Many
have fallen in Spain

500
SPECIES

Each in its own ecosystem, live together
at the Zoo Aquarium
at Casa de Campo.

SCIENCE. Life in the desert
recreated at the Museum of
Anthropology; an experiment
at CaixaForum. On the left:
the dinosaur room at the
Science Museum.

100

FOOTBALL
TROPHIES

You can see them
at the Real Madrid
stadium museum.

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127
A SPECIAL PROGRAMME
In their own language
Children and adults have different ways of looking at art. For
this reason, Madrid's three largest museums, the Prado, Reina
Sofía and Thyssen, as well as the cultural centre La Casa
Encendida, offer a special programme of events for kids, from
workshops through to children's audioguides.
MADRID FOR KIDS
The city organises family tours through the Colón and
Plaza Mayor tourist centres. The routes last two hours, encompassing Hapsburg Madrid, Royal Madrid and El Retiro Park. You'll be given a map showing different stops on the
way and an activities book so that the kids are entertained
during breaks.

GROUP TRIPS. Above:
children listen to a guide
on a visit to the Prado
Museum. Below: A "family
tour" of Royal Madrid. On
the right: inside the Ratón
Pérez Museum.

* KEY OUTINGS *
»TITIRILANDIA The puppet
theatre at El Retiro Park offers
free, open-air entertainment all
year round.

»BOTANICAL GARDENS

A visit here will change the way
you look at the plant world. It
is home to exotic species from
across the globe.

»BOAT RIDE

When the weather is good,
families and couples take to the
lake in El Retiro Park.

128

www.esmadrid.com
www.esmadrid.com/en/museum-madrid

MYSTERIES AND LEGENDS Don't open that door...
Madrid is full of secrets. For example, did
you know that ratón Pérez, Spain's tooth fairy
mouse, lives here? In a doorway on Calle Arenal
you'll find his fun museum, while the cultural
centre Casa de América, located in a former
palace, has all the atmosphere of a haunted
house. A visit full of mystery will put you in contact with the spirit world.
Without leaving the world of shadows, we
descend into the old Chamberí metro station,
which aſter falling into disuse was renamed
Andén Cero, and is now an Underground
Museum. Strong emotions can be found
where you least expect it. The Convent of

San Plácido, near Gran Vía, houses an elaborate candelabra that serves to recall the Holy
Office of the Inquisition in the 17th century.
SCREAMS OF LAUGHTER
Two attractions that never fail are the theatrical frights of the Horror Tunnel at the
Amusement Park, where the screams you hear
are of laughter, and the Wax Museum with
its gallery of monsters and waxwork models
of famous figures past and present.

MICRÓPOLIX
   
  
 ,   
  
    
  
 .

www.esmadrid.com

129
130

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"I love
museums that have
activities for children"
CAROLINA HERRERA DESIGNER

The daughter of the fashion designer fell in love with a bullfighter and stayed in Madrid, where
she founded the first of her Baby Deli stores, specializing in organic and educational products for
all the family.
@babydeli

What place do you recommend to
friends when they come to Madrid?
Plaza Mayor. I used to live there and
I was able to experience its magic
first-hand. People don't oſten get
to know it because they only pass
through.
What are the latest trends in
children's leisure activities?
I love taking my children to art galleries
and museums that have special activities for them. That way they can have
fun while they learn about art.
Any place in particular?
The Prado Museum. I think it is one

of the world's best museums. Its art
collection is wonderful and children
find it interesting, too. Though they
need a good guide who knows how
to get them interested.

children can play freely and enjoy a
bit of nature.

Where would you suggest for a
family meal?
El Botánico restaurant (Ruiz de
Alarcón, 27), close to the Prado: it's
quiet and has a magnificent shady
terrace.

Where do you go when you have
to buy a giſt?
To my own shop, Baby Deli (Lagasca, 54). Where else would I go?

The best adventure in Madrid
is...
Going to any of the parks and gardens in the heart of Madrid, where

Which is the best of them?
El Retiro Park, without a doubt.

Your latest discovery in Madrid.
The markets. I love buying fresh
fruit and vegetables, and natural foods, and that's where I find
them.

www.esmadrid.com

131
WHAT'S ON

FOR FAMILIES

>>>>>> FOR FURTHER INFORMATION visit www.esmadrid.com/en/children-madrid

MADRID IS A CITY FOR ALL AGES, AND KIDS ARE NO
EXCEPTION: JUST TAKE A LOOK AT THE PROGRAMME OF
EVENTS DESIGNED WITH CHILDREN IN MIND.

The Christmas spirit
is here and everywhere
At Christmas time, street markets, like
the one held in Plaza Mayor, designer lighting,
nativity scenes and theme shows pop up all
over Madrid. Visitors can enjoy all the magic
of the season on the 'Navibus', a Christmas
bus on which a group of guides show them
the best the capital has to offer in the Yuletide season. The celebrations reach their climax with the Three Kings' Parade.
From 2 December to 6 January
traditions still
dazzle visitors today.
>WHEN:

>ALL THE MAGIC: Centuries-old

TAKE NOTE
CIRCUS SCHOOL

Do you dream of
being a trapeze
artist? Well, Teatro
Circo Price is
running a children’s
workshop where
you can learn lots
of secrets from the
circus. From 1 February to 31 May.
CARNIVAL

The people of
Madrid dress up in
bright colours and
take to the streets
during the week
before Lent. From
17 to 22 February.
SWIMMING
POOLS

There's a vast
network of municipal swimming
pools providing
relief from the
heat. From June to
September.

Teatralia
The festival for younger audiences
Puppets, theatre, dance and music, especially for children. This event will involve performances in many locations, from alternative venues, such as Cuarta Pared
and Pradillo, to publicly owned centres such as La Casa
Encendida and the Fine Arts Circle.
>WHEN: March.
>WHAT TO EXPECT: Incredible performances.

132

Kites flying in the sky
In Juan Carlos I Park
The opening of the park in 1992 marked the recovery of a zone which had badly deteriorated. Today, it
features a special area known as the 'kite esplanade',
where many fans of this hobby come to fly their kites
when the weather is good.
>WHEN: Spring is the best season here.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It's a unique visual spectacle.

www.esmadrid.com
GREEN
134-143

ENJOY THE OUTDOORS AND DISCOVER
THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PARKS
AND GARDENS ON FOOT.

134135 MADRID RÍO PARK
136137 HISTORIC PARKS
138 SUNSETS
139 GARDENS
141 PEDESTRIAN AREAS
142 PASEO DEL PRADO
143 INTERVIEW Chema Martínez
GREEN

Madrid invites you to take a stroll

BREATHE DEEPLY AND COME AND DISCOVER
THE PARKS, GARDENS AND PEDESTRIAN
AREAS OF MADRID: REVITALISE YOURSELF
AND ENJOY THE OUTDOORS.

MADRID RÍO PARK The vast green avenue
It may be hard to believe but just a few
years ago this 10km-long parkland,
which today is filled with cyclists and
people taking a stroll in the shade of its
loſty trees, was a congested motorway
next to the Manzanares river. The
road, however, was moved underground
to make way for the vegetation, resulting in a green avenue that links up
woodland and historic parks. What's
more, this project designed by the
Burgos&Garrido studio boasts outdoor
cafés, courts to practise sports ranging from basketball, skateboarding and
in-line skating, BMX circuits, a climb-

134

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ing wall and the new city beach, with
clouds of spray and water jets where
you can cool off.
FROM ONE PARK TO ANOTHER
The route begins at Casa de Campo,
running past Campo del Moro and San
Isidro Park before reaching Arganzuela Park. It continues along Tierno
Galván Park and then making its way
through a final section along the Linear
Park of the Manzanares River.
GO RUNNING
 '  ,
'    
:   
     
 ,  
  
  
  
  .

www.esmadrid.com/en/madridrio

www.esmadrid.com

135
www.esmadrid.com/en/parks-madrid

172

GARDENS

Madrid is one of the
European cities with
the largest proportion of green areas.

10

KILOMETRES

This is the length of
the vast green avenue
that is the riverside
project Madrid Río.

1,722
HECTARES

The surface area of
Casa de Campo, four
times the size of
Central Park.

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HISTORIC PARKS Romanticism
Designed to be enjoyed by the
royal family, El Retiro Park is the
green heart of Madrid. As well as
admiring well-tended spaces such
as the Cecilio Rodríguez and
Parterre gardens, you can go
boating on the lake or check out
an art exhibition at the resplendent Glass Palace (you can even
have your tarot read along the
way). A popular circuit for runners,
Paseo de Coches also plays host
to the Book Fair at the end of
spring, where you can learn about
the latest releases.
Casa de Campo was once a royal
hunting ground. Today, it is one of
the largest city parks in Europe,
serving as an open-air setting for
a fun day outdoors. Go for a cycle
and check out the mountain bike

circuits, have a picnic under the
pines and oaks, or head down to
the lake's leisure area: the possibilities are endless.
NOBLE SPLENDOUR
Inspired by French and Italian
styles, the magnificent Capricho
Park was commissioned in the
18th century by the Duchess of
Osuna. Neglected for many years,
in recent decades it has recovered
its former splendour. The nearby
Quinta de los Molinos Park also
has noble origins. It boasts pools,
fountains, ponds and a small palace, as well as the mill which gives
the park its name.
JOAQUÍN ARAUJO
@joaquinaraujo
Naturalist and
environmental
communicator

When is the best time of year to
visit Madrid? In autumn, when life
is renewed. What can Madrid be
proud of? Its high number of trees
per inhabitant. What is the city's
greatest environmental treasure? The vast natural space Monte
de El Pardo. Which is the city's
most beautiful but lesser-known
garden? El Capricho de Osuna, for
its range of plants and rich wildlife.
What location offers the best
views? I like to film from the rooftop
of the Fine Arts Circle.

NATURAL SPACES.
Above: a bandstand in the
romantic Capricho Park;
jogging path at Casa de
Campo. Here, the lake at
El Retiro Park.

www.esmadrid.com

137
MXdrXd Rxxx

SUNSET. The Temple of
Debod, in the Oeste Park,
was brought here from
Egypt where it was also
placed to take advantage
of the sunset.

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SUNSETS Take in the view
Due to its continental climate, Madrid's sky
has a unique clear quality that lends itself
to some spectacular sunsets which stain
the scattered clouds red and orange.
You can enjoy the phenomenon from many
points in the city. The most iconic place to
enjoy this moment is the Temple of Debod, in the Oeste Park, a giſt from the
Egyptian government to Spain in 1968 for
the country's collaboration in salvaging architectural treasures from the Aswan Dam.
More than 2,000 years old, the temple was
placed to match its original orientation
from east to west in order to take advantage of its aspect at sunset. From Las Vistillas Park you can enjoy panoramic views

from the lawns, while on the roof terraces
of many Gran Vía hotels, it goes hand in
hand with a beer or cocktail. Even more elegant is the view from the open-air cafés
in Plaza de Oriente, whose name, 'East
Square', gives away its orientation.
BIRD'S EYE VIEW
From the top floor of the renowned cultural institution the Fine Arts Circle, you
can watch the sun go down over the rooſtops
of Madrid in a burst of light and colour that
spreads from Gran Vía to the mountains.
*KEY FACTS*
»THE OLDEST TREE

A bald cypress that grows
near the Puerta de Felipe IV gate
at El Retiro Park. It was brought
here from Mexico in 1633.

»BONSAI

The Botanical Gardens are home
to an important collection of
bonsai trees looked after by
landscape gardener Luis Vallejo,
an international expert in the art.

»A MELTING POT
OF STYLES

GARDENS Enter paradise on earth
Gardens were originally designed to be a representation of heaven on
earth, and there are many beautiful examples all over Madrid. In the
area surrounding the Royal Palace you can visit the Sabatini Gardens, which are the setting for musical performances during the Veranos de la Villa summer festival; and Campo del Moro, influenced by
various classical landscaping styles. With a surface area of 20 hectares,
it gently slopes in the direction of the new Madrid Río Park.
HIDDEN GEMS
Not as easy to find but equally delightful, there are other gardens
hidden between elegant buildings in Madrid. These include the ones
belonging to the Sorolla, Lázaro Galdiano and Reina Sofía museums, as well as the garden at Príncipe de Anglona Palace in Plaza
de la Paja, where entrance is free. 

Capricho Park is a blend of
French, Italian and English styles.

SPRING. At the Botanical
Gardens you can find
species imported from
all five continents. On the
left: topiary work in the
Sabatini Gardens next to
the Royal Palace.

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139
AUTUMN IS HERE
'   
''   
   
  
   
   ,
   
.

ALBERTO IGLESIAS
Soundtrack composer
boasting three Oscar
nominations

Sounds and silence. Pedestrianisation is a wonderful thing; it gives
us back silence, as well as new
sounds. Let's take a walk. Along
Calle Fuentes and Calle Arenal. I
lived there for many years. What
do you think of street musicians?
They add colour, but they need
to play more quietly and change
'stage' more often. What do you
dream about? A quieter city, which
will come with progressive electrification. Then I will be able to
enjoy the sounds of swallows in
spring and summer. It's something
I really associate with Madrid.

BY BIKE. A cycle lane
running through Casa de
Campo. On the next page:
the underground station
at Puerta del Sol, a newly
pedestrianised area.

225

THOUSAND TREES
One for every 14
inhabitants (and that's
just counting those
in the streets).

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203

SPECIES
Among all the types
of trees, the most
common is the London plane (55,000)

15

DEGREES
The average temperature, with big
differences between
summer and winter.

3,000

HOURS OF SUNSHINE
Per year, Madrid
enjoys a continental
climate with little
rain.
PEDESTRIAN AREAS Away from the traffic
It all began in Calle Preciados which was
pedestrianised in order to boost trade.
Since then, the number of pedestrian
areas has been growing each year.
On foot, and without having to worry
about traffic, you can now stroll peacefully
through Puerta del Sol, Calle Arenal and
a good part of Hapsburg Madrid and the
Literary Quarter, free to admire the monuments and curious details of the historic
centre at your own pace.
SHOPPING AND TAPAS
Pedestrians have also become a priority
on Calle Fuencarral and Cava Baja. The
first leads to Gran Vía and boasts many

fashion stores aimed at a younger clientele, as well as numerous bars offering
visitors a chance to recharge their batteries. The second, located in La Latina,
provides an opportunity to savour a wide
variety of tapas. This extensive network
of pedestrian streets makes even more
sense with the Sunday opening hours
enjoyed in downtown Madrid. The alterations to Calle Serrano also deserves special mention: the pavements have been
widened and it now boasts a brand new
cycle lane.

www.esmadrid.com

141
NEW ICON. Vertical
garden designed by
Patrick Blanc on the wall
of CaixaForum.

HEADY SPRING
  
   
   
    
,   
   
' 
.

*WHAT'S ON*
»MUSICAL TREAT

PASEO DEL PRADO Breathe in the art
Paseo de la Castellana ends with an elegant tree-lined avenue
which is not only ideal for a stroll, but is also flanked by the Prado and
Thyssen museums, as well as the Botanical Gardens, where you can
find 5,000 plant species imported from all over the world. Opened
250 years ago, its entrance features a spectacular iron gate that leads
on to a journey of the senses. Desert and tropical ecosystems are recreated in the gardens' greenhouses.
Just on the other side of the Paseo is the cultural centre CaixaForum,
on which the French landscape gardener Patrick Blanc planted Spain's
first vertical garden. Its lushness is to be admired.

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During June and September, the
Capricho Park runs a programme
of open-air concerts at the Palacete esplanade. You can hear jazz,
chamber music and much more.
Sa turdays and Sundays at midday. Avda. de la Alameda de
Osuna, s/n.

»LA ROSALEDA

An international rose contest is
held in May in this rose garden,
with species of the flower from
all over the world on display.
Oeste Park.

»ALMOND TREES IN
BLOOM

Towards the end of winter, the
trees at Quinta de los Molinos
Park burst into tones of white
during their flowering season.
C/ Alcalá, 477.
"If I'm in Madrid I go
running in El Retiro Park"
CHEMA MARTÍNEZ LONGDISTANCE RUNNER

He is one of the best long-distance athletes in Europe,
an Olympic and triple Continental medallist and an
example of longevity.
@chemitamartinez
What is your latest discovery in
Madrid?
The park created to replace the
old M-30 road, Madrid Río.
If out running, where can we
find you?
Anywhere, but if I'm in Madrid,
without a doubt El Retiro Park.

Which is your favourite race
held in the city?
The San Silvestre Vallecana race. I
think it's the nicest in the world.
What can Madrid be proud of in
terms of sport?
The range of sports you can practise here is quite good, but I would

say it's the sporting spirit of Madrid's people, which makes them
great fans of all disciplines.
Which is the least known sports
facility that you like best?
I recently discovered Jarama, a
racing circuit with a long history. I
ran it first and then I went round it
in a car. It was incredible.
What spot do you recommend
to friends who visit Madrid?
A walk from the Royal Palace to
Puerta de Alcalá. Pure Madrid!
Can you suggest a restaurant
where we can recharge our
batteries?
Try the 'broken' fried eggs dish at
Casa Lucio (Cava Baja, 35). A total
protein boost.
Aſter a hard training session,
do you have a favourite place
to relax?
A good spa session works wonders.
Fortunately, Madrid has a wide
range of spas to choose from.

www.esmadrid.com

143
GAY-FRIENDLY

146-152

FREEDOM AND TOLERANCE IN A CITY THAT
EXUDES LIGHT AND MODERNITY.

146147 COME CELEBRATE DIVERSITY
148 CHUECA: FROM ITS SQUARE TO ITS MARKET
149 OPEN MADRID
150151 INTERVIEW Boris Izaguirre
152 WHAT'S ON
GOURMET TERRACE. San Antón
market is one of Chueca’s essential
gems. And its terrace is the best place
of all for watching the world go by in
this cosmopolitan neighbourhood.

GAY-FRIENDLY MADRID

LG
BT

Diversity, comfort and freedom

MADRID IS TOLERANCE'S KILOMETRE ZERO. CHUECA AND OTHER
PARTS OF THE CITY EXUDE DIVERSITY ACCOMPANIED BY SHOPPING,
GASTRONOMY AND MODERNITY WITHOUT PREJUDICE.

146

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SHOPPING

Much like anywhere
in the city centre,
you can come
and visit Chueca's
shops any Sunday
of the year.

COME CELEBRATE DIVERSITY
A great rainbow-coloured web
The fact that Madrid is a welcoming
city is no secret. Neither is it any secret
that its main streets host a week of partying, fun and culture during the city's
Gay Pride festivities. Everyone from the
gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender
community takes part, but heterosexual
individuals and families of all kinds are
also welcome to join in one of the biggest events on diversity and tolerance in
the world. From the last days of June to
the first weekend in July, vibrant Madrid lives and breathes respect.
Residents and businesses alike have converted the Chueca neighbourhood into
the epicentre of LGBT normalization.

The area's respectful, festive, welcoming nature, open to all wherever they
are from, has reached as far as Plaza
de Callao, Plaza de España and the
Triball neighbourhood.
A WIDE RANGE OF OPTIONS
Restaurants, hotels to suit all pockets,
pubs, nightclubs, bars and shops for all
tastes and styles (from the most traditional to the trendiest) complete the
range of options offered by a city which
is pure vitality.

CULTURE

In the streets of
Chueca you can
also find theatres,
specialist bookshops and historic
buildings.

ACCOMMODA
TION

Inside and outside
Chueca, Madrid offers all kinds of gayfriendly businesses
and hotels.

A QUESTION
OF PRIDE

'  
 .  
    
  , 
'  .

MAIKA
CONTRERAS
President of
the business
association AEGAL

The heart of Chueca. The square that
bears its name, and its market. Which
other neighbourhoods imitate it
best? The Literary Quarter, Malasaa
and, more recently, Lavapiés. There
are some who think that Chueca is
just nightlife. It is home to art galleries, boutiques, cafés, among other
things. A place to escape from it
all. Bar Truco (Gravina, 10).

www.esmadrid.com

147
www.esmadrid.com/en/gay-madrid

CHUECA Much more
than just a neighbourhood
During the day, life in Chueca carries on
as usual: small businesses, cafés and grocery shops rub shoulders with art galleries, boutiques and nightclubs.
The area also represents a slice of historic
Madrid, in which a brief stroll takes you to
Casa de las Siete Chimeneas, a 16thcentury building in the heart of Plaza del
Rey. It has a zarzuela ring to it, with its
main square and streets like Calle Barbieri
named aſter this Spanish operatic genre.
But it is also home to important shopping streets open Monday to Sunday, like
Fuencarral, Argensola, Piamonte and
Barquillo, now entering Las Salesas. Chueca is all about relaxing in Plaza Vázquez
de Mella or wandering up towards Gran
Vía. Of course it's not just a neighbourhood:
it's so much more.

FROM ITS SQUARE TO ITS MARKET
Between two tourist hotspots
Entering Plaza de Chueca from the underground station you are
met with a different scene every time. Towering above, its charming buildings show the neighbourhood's traditional side. On street
level, it's seriously cosmopolitan and eclectic. The rows of outdoor bars invite us to have a drink, see and be seen. Flanked by
traditional taverns and cafés, its streets are a succession of pubs,
fruit and veg shops, other stores and fast food stalls.
Generously, it has given up some of the limelight to the new San
Antón Market: design applied to food, ample space, shared tables, parking, a supermarket, and a restaurant whose terrace
offers views over a neighbourhood which asserts its position in
the list of must-visit places.

148

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ÁLVARO
VILLARRUBIA
Photographer

To eat. Casa Perico (Ballesta 18): for
classic dishes. The best background
for a snapshot. Some of the façades
in Hapsburg Madrid. A must-stroll.
Along Gran Vía, from Red de San Luis
to Callao. A unique shop. Mandalay
(San Joaquín, 9): antiques and interiors. Where to be seen. I never miss
Madrid Fashion Week.
Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

ONLY IN MADRID
   
   
 (
   
) 

 .

OPEN MADRID
Come and join us
Liberal attitudes are certainly not only
confined to Chueca. Other neighbourhoods
have also become places where sexual orientation is the least important thing. Due
to its close proximity and its effervescent
nightlife, the Malasaña area has also made
a name for itself. Streets such as Calle La
Palma and San Vicente Ferrer as well as
famous squares like Plaza del Dos de Mayo
are just some of the places offering bustling trade and entertainment, where you
can forget conventions and get carried away
by the constant coming and going of people
in search of alternative venues (and a few
old favourites), intimate gigs and impeccable, well-priced restaurants.
ALTERNATIVES TO LAVAPIÉS
From the back of Gran Vía to the back of Sol
and nestled between Atocha, Embajadores
and Plaza Tirso de Molina, Madrid's old Jewish quarter is today a great mix of ethnic
backgrounds and local residents both old and
new. Its steep streets are long thoroughfares
brightened by the outdoor seating of venues to suit all tastes, including dens playing great music, alternative spots, gayfriendly bars and typical taverns where
wine, beer and tapas are the order of the day.
DIVERSITY. On the next page: San Antón
Market, a new meeting place in Chueca.
Above: if you're looking for diversity, other
areas worth checking out are Lavapiés,
Malasaña and Las Salesas. Above: Topacio
Fresh at her Fresh Gallery, in the Salamanca
district, dedicated to showcasing emerging art.

www.esmadrid.com

149
150

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"The spirit of Chueca has
spread across the whole city"
BORIS IZAGUIRRE WRITER/SHOWMAN

Born in Venezuela but adopted by Madrid, he is one of Spain's
most popular tv personalities, as well as a successful author.
@Borisizaguirre

What does Madrid have that
nowhere else does?
Light, without a doubt. The first
thing you think is: how hot it is,
and how bright everything is!
How was your welcome in
Madrid?
Brilliant, in every way. I arrived in
1990. I never imagined that weekend that I would stay and live here.
The city shakes you. I've been living
like this for more than 18 years.
What symbolises Chueca?
We owe Chueca a lot. I now live
closer to El Retiro Park, and I find it
an incredibly fun, free neighbourhood. I think the spirit of Chueca
has spread throughout the city.
Where do you like to go?
To Why Not (San Bartolomé, 7). I
have fantastic memories of this

bar, and it hasn't lost its charm.
I see myself dancing there again
and I love it.
And for a pleasant stroll?
Arturo Soria could be a street in
Caracas. Madrid has a very hidden magic that reminds me of all
our Latin American cities in their
best era.

now I really like Luzi Bombón (Pº.
de la Castellana, 35) and Murillo
(Ruiz de Alarcón, 27). The last of
these was an old 1940s bar opposite the Prado, which has just
been extended a bit with a restaurant serving some real delicacies. It's one of those places
where if you stay, you don't know
what will happen.

What about an image that has
an impact on you?
The sky in Oeste Park puts on
such an amazing show. The first
time you see the Royal Palace
from this side it looks like a huge
mountain.

Where do you like to hang out?
I love Las Salesas and, of course,
Calle Argensola, where I wrote
many of my novels. It's a place
that amuses me a great deal. I
always think of it as being very
French.

A recommendation for a place
to eat and have an early drink.
There are many traditional places
such as the Basque grill Dantxari
(Ventura Rodríguez, 8), and right

Where do you go shopping?
There's an amazing range of
brands on offer here. When I need
something, I find that Calle Jorge
Juan usually ticks all the boxes.

www.esmadrid.com

151
WHAT'S ON: LGBT
>>>>>> KEEP UP WITH IT ALL ON www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid

MADRID BECOMES A CENTRE OF INTEREST FOR EVE
RYONE, WITH EVENTS THAT COMBINE THE TRADITIONAL
WITH A TASTE FOR THE LATEST TRENDS.

Gay Pride
Festivities
The pride of the gay, lesbian, bisexual and
transgender community is upheld by this
huge party packed with speeches, parades,
live concerts and much more, bringing together hundreds of thousands of people
every year. One of the most eagerly awaited
events is the Gay Pride Parade that runs from
Puerta de Alcalá to Plaza de España.
From 3 to 7 July 2013. Proclamation
in Plaza de Chueca on 3 July.
>WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It's a great street
party for all.
>WHEN:

ALSO
FITUR LGBT

For the second
year running, the
tourism fair invites
the public to find
out more about
gay-friendly
businesses and
destinations.
January.
MADBEAR

Bears and their
fans from all over
the world meet
up once a year in
Chueca's bars and
clubs. For men
with no complexes.
December.
FOR THE GIRLS

Women from
across Europe will
be attending the
exclusive macrofestival Nosotras
somos todas.
May.

Visible Festival
Venues across Madrid
This event offers different works by artists who make
an important contribution to the LGBT collective, including activities such as dance, theatre, children's
theatre, cinema, exhibitions, music and poetry.
>WHEN: June-July.
>FOR WHOM: All lovers of culture, the arts
and cultural diversity.

152

LesGaiCineMad Festival
At various cinemas
This is one of the most important specialist film festivals
around, both in terms of numbers of attendees and films
shown. A true standard-bearer of Spanish and Latin
American productions for the rest of the world.
>WHEN: November.
>WHAT TO EXPECT: The best selection of shorts, documentaries and feature-length films with an LGBT theme.

www.esmadrid.com
SLEEPING
154-159

HOTELS FOR FEELING LIKE
ROYALTY, BREATHING DESIGN
AND WATCHING THE PENNIES.

153 WELCOME
156 SLEEP LIKE ROYALTY
157 DESIGNER
158 THE COMPLETE PACKAGE
159 INTERVIEW Kike Sarasola
SLEEPING

Let us pamper you, by day and by night

FANTASY. One of the
suites in the ME Hotel
(this page), a bathroom
at the Adler and a sitting
room in the Santo Mauro.
Exclusive and inviting
ambiences.

MADRID HOTELS ARE THE
GATEWAY TO FANTASTIC EX
PERIENCES WHETHER YOU'RE
STAYING THE NIGHT OR JUST
DROPPING IN.

154

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WELCOME Make yourself at home
In Madrid you'll find that hotel life embraces everyone.
All efforts are focused on making anyone who comes
through the door feel at home. Even if you don't stay in
any of them, you could start your Sunday with brunch
at the Intercontinental, then share a glass of Cava
under the dome in the Palace before enjoying tea and
cakes in the garden at the Ritz.
JAVIER MORO
@javiermoro123
Writer and traveller
2011 Planeta Award

Which hotels have the best atmosphere? The Palace (Pza. de las
Cortes, 7) and the Orfila (Orfila, 6),
each with its own style. The most
fabulous? The Ritz (Pza. Lealtad,
5). The most cosmpolitan, the one
that makes you feel as though you
could be anywhere? The Villa Magna
(Castellana, 22). Which would you
pick for its location and design?
The Palace. Which one has the best
bar? The Puerta de América (Av.
América, 41). Madrid's best-kept
secret? The Sorolla Museum (Gral.
Martínez Campos, 37).

But that's not all. These are accessible establishments
that have become designer items under the management of large international firms, as well as powerful
drivers of the city's cultural activity. Sometimes you
can be transported to an imaginary world just by venturing onto their rooſtops high over the capital. These
fashionable terraces are an essential meeting point
(not just on summer evenings) and give you a fantastic
bird's eye view of the great metropolis.
WHERE ARE YOU STAYING?
Now, more than ever, your hotel is part of your destination. In Madrid too, they guarantee your trip will be
even more memorable. Family-friendly or businessoriented, central or on the outskirts, avant-garde or
baroque, luxury or budget. The options are endless, but
always with amazing locations, complementary services and personal attention.

www.esmadrid.com

155
*CHECK IN*
SLEEP LIKE ROYALTY
Where do you want to wake up?
The classics have retained their
charm over the years, but they're
now being joined by a new generation of hotels that are bringing a
new feel to places with a past. It's
quite normal to find restored palaces and mansions with amazing
public areas, courtyard gardens
and rooſtop pools. Some are like
real museums, while others are
wonderful gems of interior design. There are establishments
to suit all budgets in the Literary Quarter and Salamanca
District, where you are guaranteed a great night's sleep.
For many of these hotels, great

CONTRASTS. A suite
at the Ritz with another
at the Silken Puerta de
América and the lobby at
the Oscar Room Mate.

156

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location is part of their appeal. In
Madrid, your room might overlook
Paseo de la Castellana, you may
have views of El Retiro Park and
the Prado Museum, or you could
be staying right next to Puerta
de Alcalá, high up over Gran Vía,
near Parliament, deep in the narrow streets of Hapsburg Madrid
or in palatial homes in Chamberí.
You can opt for the tallest skyscraper or for one of the city's
oldest inns, now beautifully restored as boutique hotels.

»CHUECA All Madrid hotels
are gay friendly, but here you'll
find some that cater especially for
guests from the LGBT community.
»BARAJAS There are dozens

of upmarket hotels for business
travellers within a stone's throw
from the airport and Campo de
las Naciones.

»ATOCHA The new high-

speed train link into Madrid (AVE)
has resulted in the appearance of
new hotels.

»OTHERS Further away from

the city centre you can find very
attractive hotels in quieter surroundings, such as Madrid Río,
Arturo Soria and Mirasierra.
www.esmadrid.com/en/accommodation-madrid

DESIGNER charm

ISABEL COIXET

Madrid hotels have been quick to pick up on the latest trends
in architecture and design, with imaginative spaces that evoke
faraway places, bygone eras and fantasy images. Floors decorated
mainly in white or red, marble-topped bars, city rooſtops, glass
pools and futuristic beds.

@isabelcoixet
Film director

LET'S STAY IN THE HOTEL
Many of the bars and restaurants in these hotels are an integral
part of modern life in Madrid. Cocktail bars, first-class wine cellars, signature cuisine and inviting spaces are all at hand for
catching up with friends, intimate conversations, business meetings and family gatherings.

Where do you like staying when
you come to Madrid? Always close
to Gran Vía, which serves as my
base. Any hotel in particular? I've
got several: any in the Room Mate
chain, the Las Letras hotel (Gran Vía,
11), the Abalú (Pez, 19), and, when
the budget allows, the Palace. How
do hotels affect your mood? I'm
so used to them that I doubt they
have much effect on me.

www.esmadrid.com

157
80.465
BEDS
Figures from the last
Madrid hotel census
prove there's room
for everyone.

250
HOTELS

Spread across the
capital, they are mainly
in the centre and the
financial districts.

592
HOSTALS

Accommodation for
all budgets with high
standards of service
and cleanliness.

THE COMPLETE PACKAGE
Comfort, service and good prices
If you just want to stay overnight at an affordable price, you'll
find Madrid has a lot to choose from. Home to a large array of
smaller accommodations to suit all pockets, with designer chic and
well-run basic services, Madrid is proof that reasonable rates are
compatible with generous and functional spaces, à la carte facilities and attentive service. For family budgets, longer stays and
school groups, there's a wide range of affordable accommodation
even with the major hotel chains.
YOUTH HOSTEL
Right in the centre of Madrid, young people can enjoy staying at
one of the best youth hostels in Europe. Its great location (Mejía
Lequerica, 21) and its modern amenities make it the perfect place
for young tourists from home and abroad. Choosing the right hotel
will make your trip all the more enjoyable.

ROOM WITH A VIEW.
Admire Madrid from a
room at the Chic&Basic
or from the Emperador
hotel pool terrace.

158

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AL FRESCO

  
    
 '  
   ,
    
  
   .
"We're very welcoming
in this city"
KIKE SARASOLA ENTREPRENEUR

A former Olympic equestrian rider, he went on to set up
one of the sector's most groundbreaking concepts: Room
Mate hotels.
@SarasolaKike
What is Madrid's biggest asset in
terms of its hotels?
Friendliness. Our greatest quality
is that we're so warm and friendly;
tourists are always welcome. It's
very important that they feel at
home, at ease, comfortable.
One of the things Room Mate
is most proud of is its contribu-

tion to regenerating the centre
of Madrid...
We've won over customers who
come to stay in the city centre
with our "five Ds" philosophy: they
come to sleep (Dormir), shower
(Ducharse) and eat breakfast
(Desayunar), because the Decor
is great and it's a fun (Divertido)

hotel. That's how we've conquered the centre.
To what extent does design and
decor attract guests?
It costs the same to make something beautiful as it would something ugly. That's the mindset we
want to get across and we've tried
to break away from the notion that
you have to pay 500 euros to stay
somewhere with designer looks. You
can get that paying 100 euros too.
Do you think that beauty is
subjective?
Of course, it depends on your taste,
that's why all my hotels are different, some are modern and others
are more classic. I think the 90s
trend for uniformity was absolutely
dreadful.
Do you have any other favourite
hotels?
The Santo Mauro, which has just
been renovated by Lorenzo Castillo (Zurbano, 36). On the budget
side, Chic&Basic (Atocha, 113).
What was missing from Madrid?
Nothing, not now anyway. It used
to be outdoor cafes. We have 300
days of sunshine every year and
they were sorely needed.

www.esmadrid.com

159
DAY TRIPS

162-166

FASCINATING PLACES TO VISIT
LESS THAN TWO HOURS AWAY.

162163 MONUMENTAL CITIES
164165 SPECTACULAR LOCATIONS
166 PLACES TO DISCOVER OUTSIDE MADRID
DAY TRIPS

Short Excursions

GREAT TRIPS. From
Madrid you can visit towns
and cities with a wealth of
tourist attractions, such
as Cuenca (on this page),
Toledo, Valencia and
Córdoba.

DISCOVER MONUMENTAL CITIES LESS THAN
TWO HOURS AWAY BY HIGH SPEED TRAIN
Madrid is the starting point for Europe's most extensive high speed train
network, so you can easily make day trips to Spanish towns and cities with
spectacular artistic and cultural heritage attractions.
 

 

Toledo
An imperial city

Cuenca
Quaint and abstract

A UNESCO World Heritage Site,
the town is world famous for its
impressive Roman aqueduct. Just a
short distance from Madrid, you can
see monuments such as the Gothic
cathedral, the Alcázar, Torre de San
Esteban, the monastery of El Parral
and the Corpus Christi synagogue,
plus several small Romanesque
churches.

162

 

Segovia
A historic neighbour

Also holding World Heritage Site
status, the city preserves traces of
the three cultures that once lived
side by side there: Arab, Jewish and
Christian. Major monuments include
the Primate Cathedral, Cristo de la
Luz mosque, Tránsito synagogue and
the Alcázar, while the annual Corpus
Christi procession is one of the most
popular in Spain.

Set in the impressive natural surroundings of the Castilian mountain range,
this small World Heritage Site city is
known all over the world for its Hanging Houses, clinging precariously to
the sides of the deep gorge carved by
the river Huécar. Its cathedral, steep
cobbled streets and the Museum of
Abstract Art are just a few reasons for
spending some time here.

www.esmadrid.com
 

Valladolid
Castilian character
A city of kings, cardinals and great writers, Valladolid's stately past is illustrated by important
historical buildings such as the Renaissance
Palace of Santa Cruz and the Plaza Mayor,
which was imitated all over Spain and Latin
America. Alongside them we find more modern
constructions such as the Science Museum
and the regenerated Pisuerga river banks.
 

Valencia
Madrid's beach
The capital of the Levante region is Spain's
third city and one of its principal Mediterranean
ports. It is Madrid's closest sea port, now
brought even closer by the new high speed train
link. Set amongst fruit orchards and long sandy
beaches, the city has a rich cultural and
artistic heritage, including the Cathedral, the
Silk Guild Hall, the IVAM museum of contemporary art, and the City of Arts and Sciences.
 

Zaragoza
The first lady of the Ebro
The capital of Aragón owes its wealth to the Ebro,
Spain's largest river, which enabled it to flourish in
the middle of a sun-drenched landscape. The river
provided wealth to build the great Basilica of
El Pilar, La Seo and the Aljafería Palace, plus
the buildings, bridges and pavilions added later for
the 2008 Expo, on the theme of water.
 

Córdoba
The legacy of Al-Andalus
Built on the banks of the Guadalquivir river,
it was one of the first Spanish cities to be
awarded World Heritage Site status. It is a fine
illustration of Spain's Arab past, reflected in the
Mosque and the town of Medina Azahara.
The city's rich multicultural history can be seen
in its tea houses, baths, courtyards and in its
delicious variety of food and drink.

www.esmadrid.com

163
SPECTACULAR LOCATIONS
ONLY A STONE'S THROW FROM MADRID
In the area around the capital you can visit royal palaces,
lush gardens, nature trails and medieval towns.
You'll be there in the blink of an eye.

ARANJUEZ
On the Strawberry Train
The town is best known for its Royal Palace and gardens, the most splendid in the whole of Spain. Aranjuez can be reached from Madrid on the Strawberry
Train, which follows the original route of the railway
officially opened in 1851. When you get off the train,
a guided tour takes you round the royal apartments
and recreational areas, in parkland that is now a World
Heritage Site. Monumental fountains, long avenues
lined with impressive trees and lakes with swans are
just a few of the highlights in this picturesque manmade landscape.

EL ESCORIAL
San Lorenzo Royal Estate
Felipe II, the ascetic king, ordered this Monastery to
be built in the foothills of the mountains near Madrid
as an architectural symbol of his reign. Both the size
and surroundings of this refined set of Renaissance
buildings will amaze you. Inside, you can admire the
Courtyard of Kings, leading to the great basilica; the
Hapsburg Palace, with the Battles Hall; the Picture
Gallery, with works by Tintoretto, Titian and El Greco;
and the Museum of Architecture in the basement.

ALCALÁ DE HENARES
Birthplace of Cervantes
Cervantes' home town is 30 kilometres away from
Madrid. The Complutense University was founded here
in 1499, which is why the town is part of the Castil-

164

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ian Language Route. It has been a World Heritage
Site since 1998, in recognition of monuments such as
Cervantes' House and Museum, the Magistral Cathedral, the Colegio Mayor and the San Ildefonso
Chapel, where Ximénez de Cisneros, the town's patron
of the arts, is buried.

MADRID'S MOUNTAINS
Landscapes and walking trails
Madrid lies at the foot of a beautiful mountain range
with peaks over 2,000 metres high. It is protected as
a Nature Park and is a walker's paradise, with a wide
range of scenic walking trails. Places such as the Seven
Peaks, the Rascafría area, Sierra Negra, the Montejo beech forest and the mountain pass of Navacerrada, with its ski resort, are of special interest.
The Cotos mountain pass can be reached by train and is
home to the region's largest ski resort, Valdesquí.

CHINCHÓN
Going back in time
This historic town, strategically located on the fertile
plain by the Tajuña river, boasts one of the oldest
town squares in Spain, used as a location for several
films (it is featured in Around the World in 80 Days).
It has also been used for open-air theatre and as a
bullring, and was formerly the site of the gallows. A
fine example of folk-style architecture, the square is surrounded by arcaded three-storey buildings, many of
which are occupied by restaurants specialising in meat
dishes such as lamb and suckling pig.
NEARBY. Tourist
destinations such as Aranjuez
(above), the Madrid Sierra and
Chinchón provide a welcome
breath of fresh air and are the
ideal location for a short break.

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165
PLACES TO DISCOVER
OUTSIDE MADRID
Just outside the Region of Madrid you will find stunningly
beautiful villages and towns, which are steeped in history and
where you can enjoy architecture and gastronomy alike.

LA GRANJA
The summer palace

SIGÜENZA
A train ride to the middle ages

While Aranjuez was the monarchs' winter home
from home, when the weather became too hot in
the summer, they took refuge in the palace of La
Granja, set among Segovia's forests. It was inspired
by Versailles, as shown by the series of monumental fountains you'll see in the beautiful palace
gardens.

The railway trip to this medieval town in Guadalajara
is a great experience for children and adults alike, with
entertainment by friendly troubadors who then take
you on a guided tour of the castle, the majestic cathedral, the Plaza Mayor, Plazuela de la Cárcel,
and Casa del Doncel. You'll have the whole day to
stroll around this town, famous for its craſts and gastronomy, where time seems to have stood still.

SALAMANCA
University spirit
From its impressive Plaza Mayor you can soak up the
atmosphere that pervades its pedestrianised streets,
full of student life. Make sure you see the University
– one of the oldest in Europe – the two cathedrals,
La Clerecía, the popular Casa de las Conchas (house of
shells) and the Roman bridge. The city is also a World
Heritage Site.

ÁVILAGREDOS
The Castilian fortress
The walls round this old city, a World Heritage Site, are
over two and a half kilometres in length and date back
to the late 11th century. The Gothic cathedral, and
the Alcázar and San Vicente gates, are just three
of its architectural gems. The surrounding countryside
is equally lovely.

ABOVE THE CLOUDS. Left, the
cathedral in Sigüenza, where
time seems to have stood still
since the Middle Ages. Right,
a walker on the path over the
Sierra de Gredos peaks.

166

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USEFUL

Practical information
HERE'S EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW TO FEEL
RIGHT AT HOME DURING YOUR STAY IN MADRID. TO
GET THE LATEST INFORMATION BEFORE YOUR TRIP
VISIT WWW.ESMADRID.COM

CLIMATE
Madrid's dry climate
and low rainfall mean
that any time of year
is perfect for getting
to know the city in the
radiant sunshine.

FESTIVALS
Few cities enjoy their
fiestas more than
Madrid. The festival
season begins on the
Day of the Madrid
Region (2 May). Shortly
aſter that, the most
traditional festival - that
of San Isidro (15 May)
- takes place in the
famous Pradera de San
Isidro Park. The month
of August is one long
fiesta. Aſter the days
of San Cayetano and
San Lorenzo on 7 and
10 August -which are
fiestas but still working
days-, comes the Day of
La Paloma (15 August).
And on 9 November the
city commemorates the
Day of the Virgen de la
Almudena, the patron
saint of Madrid. During
Holy Week, you can enjoy

concerts and beautiful
processions through
the old quarter, while
Christmas brings out
the street markets, light
displays, New Year's Eve
celebrations in Sol, and
the Three Kings Parade.

ACCESSIBLE MADRID
Metro
Madrid's underground
is one of the most
accessible public
transport services
in Europe. 60% of
stations have liſts,
while more than half of
the trains are adapted
to regulations on
accessibility.
Eurotaxi
These taxis have
the same tariffs as
all others, but are
adapted for people with
disabilities. Information
service:
915 478 600/010.
Guides
The City Council
organizes free visits
adapted to any
disability.
Tel: 915 881 636.

AVERAGE ANNUAL TEMPERATURE (in ºC) ANNUAL RAINFALL (l/m2)
Jan

Jan

Feb

Feb

Mar

Mar

Apr

Apr

May

May

Jun

Jun

Jul

Jul

Aug

Aug

Sep

Sep

Oct

Oct

Nov

Nov

Dec

Dec

-10 -5 0

5 10 15 20 25 30 35

Culture
The main museums,
theatres and cultural
centres are adapted
to the needs of people
with disabilities.

TIMETABLES
Small businesses
usually open from 10
am to 8.30 pm. Larger
stores and chains are
open all day and close
later.
Shopaholics are in
luck when visiting the
majority of Madrid's
neighbourhoods: shops
can open every day if
they wish, including
holidays (excepting

10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90

25 December and 1
January).

WIFI
As part of its
commitment to
innovation, Madrid
has installed free
Wi-Fi in three iconic
squares - Santo
Domingo, Olavide
and Plaza Mayor - as
well as in EMT's local
buses and in public
buildings such as
libraries and markets.
Wi-Fi is also available
at newsstands bearing
the Wi-Fi logo and
in numerous cafés
throughout the city.

www.esmadrid.com

167
TRANSPORT
Practical information

HOW TO GET THERE
BY AIR
Barajas
All commercial flights into
Madrid land here. As it is only 12
kilometres northeast of the capital,
it can be reached quickly and
economically. The official opening
of T4 in 2006 made it one of the
world's most modern airports, with
its breathtaking design by architect
Richard Rogers, its highly efficient
operation and a shopping area
selling many leading international
brands. The new terminal has
helped to relieve pressure on
the other three terminals, where
checking in is now faster. Barajas
handles more traffic than any
other airport in Spain and is the
fiſth busiest in Europe. OneWorld
operates in T4, while SkyTeam and
StarAlliance operate in T1 and T2
respectively.
Metro On line 8 the journey
from Nuevos Ministerios station

172

www.esmadrid.com

takes around 20 minutes to T4, and
12 minutes to the other terminals. A
surcharge is payable.
Train The Cercanías suburban
train network now includes line C-1,
linking Príncipe Pio station with T4
at Barajas and stopping at Atocha,
Nuevos Ministerios and Chamartín.
Bus The brand new Airport Express
service runs to and from Barajas 24
hours a day. There is a bus every 15
minutes during the day and every
35 minutes all through the night.
You need to allow about 40 minutes
for your journey. The bus makes
only three stops: O'Donnell at the
junction with Doctor Esquerdo, Plaza
de Cibeles and Atocha train station
(daytime only).
Shuttle Bus This free Service
runs between all terminals every five
minutes from 6.30am to 11.30pm;
every 20 minutes from 11.30pm to
1.50am and every 40 minutes from
1.50am to 6.30am.
Taxi The airport is only 12
kilometres northeast of the city. The

fare should be about 30 euros from
the centre of Madrid.
Car The airport is well connected to
the city's main roads, including the
A1 and A2 highways and the M-40,
M11 and R2 motorways.
Car parks Barajas has over 10,000
parking spaces, conveniently located
in seven zones near the terminals.

BY TRAIN
Atocha and Chamartín
Wherever you're coming from,
Madrid is easy to reach by train.
Atocha and Chamartín stations
lie at the centre of the impressive
Spanish railway network. It includes
the AVE high speed train service,
which connects with the French high
speed line. The Cercanías local train
network links the two stations to
each other and to the city centre at
the brand new Sol station. Following
extension work, Atocha station is
set to become the new Barajas: it
is expected to handle 36 million
passengers by 2025.
Metrobus Multi-Trip Card: €12.20
(Prices for December 2012).

TAXI There are currently more than
15,000 taxis in Madrid, with increasing
numbers accepting credit cards and
using GPS technology to ensure you
get to your destination by the shortest
route. You can take a taxi at a taxi
rank, hail one in the street or request
one by phone. You'll always find one at
your service. The fares are affordable.

BICYCLE There can be no healthier

AVE The high-speed train is the most
convenient option for passengers,
who can travel quickly and easily to
21 Spanish cities, including Barcelona,
Valencia, Valladolid, Sevilla, Zaragoza,
Toledo, Segovia, Cuenca, Córdoba and
Málaga, at reasonable prices.
Medium distance Mediumdistance trains link Madrid with
Spain's other major cities; the trainhotel to Galicia offers a comfortable
overnight sleeper train service.
Cercanías The local train service
has nine lines in the Region of Madrid
area, all of which start from Atocha
mainline station or pass through it.
Depending on zone restrictions, you
can use the same tickets for trains,
metro and buses.
ROADS
By car and bus
Madrid is the country's transport
hub, with all six national motorways
converging here. The city also has
an extensive system of ring roads.
Numerous bus services link the capital

with major Spanish and European
cities. The main bus stations are
Estación Sur and Avenida de América.

HOW TO GET AROUND
METRO You won't find a more
convenient way of getting round the
city. The fast and extensive network
is one of the cheapest in Europe.
There are twelve lines, plus three
Light Metro lines running round the
outskirts of the city. They take you
to all parts of the city and to nearby
towns. See the map on the next page.

BUS If you want to watch the
world go by while you travel in
comfort, the bus is for you. Buses
run between 6am and 11.30pm,
although there are also night buses,
covering 27 routes starting from
Plaza de Cibeles. The bus company,
EMT, has an iPhone and smartphone
application to inform passengers of
waiting times at the city's bus stops.
Single metro/bus ticket: €1.50 - 2.

www.esmadrid.com/en/transport-madrid

and quicker way of seeing Madrid
than by bike, along the city's rapidly
growing network of cycle lanes. The
bicycle lane on Calle Serrano and the
Green Cycling Ring, which runs for
65 kilometres around the city, are
especially good places to ride.

TOURIST TRAVEL CARD Ideal
for visitors keen to explore the city in
their own way, it allows you to use all
the transport services as many times
as you like. The cost of a travel card for
zone A (for use inside the city limits)
is from 8 euros (1 day) to 33.40 euros
(seven days). The travel card for zone T,
covering a wider area, costs from 16 to
66.80 euros.
PARKING Although it's best not to
drive around the city centre, Madrid has
a good number of public and private
car parks. If you park in the street, bear
in mind that parking is restricted from
Monday to Friday between 9am and
8pm, and on Saturdays from 9am to
3pm. You will need to purchase a ticket
(available from nearby parking meters)
and the charge depends on how long
you intend to stay and whether the

www.esmadrid.com

173
ARTE Y CULTURA
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Hop on Madrid’s open-top bus

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Guia de Madrid en Ingles

  • 1.
    Ideas for yournext visit a way of life ********* www.esmadrid.com a way of life
  • 2.
    Much more thanshopping in the heart of Madrid. !"#$%&"'(%')*+,-./'#"+0,-1'0"*+2(&"-('/(%2"'%33"2,-1'+-'"4$#5/,6"'/"#"$(,%-'%3 '(7"'8%2#0./'9-"/('8+($7:'';"8"#2<'+-0'#5452<'#,3"/(<#"' =2+-0/>'?-;%<'(7"'$%&3%2('%3 '+'$%&*#"("'#5452<'/7%**,-1'"4*"2,"-$"',-'@+02,0:',-$#50,-1'0"#,$,%5/'0,-,-1'+-0'2"/(%2+(,6"'8"##-"//' (2"+(&"-(/:'+##'+6+,#+=#"'+('(7"'-"8#<'2"-%6+("0'?#'A%2("'B-1#C/'A+/("##+-+>' )("*',-(%'+'-"8'8%2#0'%3 '/(<#"> C A S T E L L A N A M A D R I D S PA I N
  • 3.
    MADRID A way oflife Madrid is a city strongly focused on tourism. Its streets breathe vitality, art and culture, inviting anyone who visits to arrange plans difficult to imagine in any other Spanish or international destination. The number of annual visitors to the city now exceeds 8 million. They come to enjoy this diverse and multi-faceted metropolis whose appeal never ceases to grow thanks to the drive for excellence within the tourism sector along with the constantly expanding leisure options and a complete overhaul of the cultural calendar. The local government is committed to promoting and raising awareness of its cultural heritage and of the plethora of shopping, culinary, hotel and leisure options Madrid has to offer. This commitment translates into initiatives such as the publication of this guide, in which you learn many reasons why this city has become one of the five most visited capital cities in Europe. The 170 plus pages contained in this guide to promote Madrid reveal the city’s many tourist attractions, some of which are unique. Its readers will discover that Madrid has a beach, to be found in Madrid Rio, the new green heart of the city centre, or that each district has its own identity, and that Madrid has restored several of its major historical cultural locations, such as CentroCentro, Matadero Madrid and the Conde Duque centre. Other aspects of Madrid you will discover in this guide include the Art Walk, which never closes; and other facts, such as that culture is thriving on the streets, manifested in a thousand different ways; that in few places is it as easy as in this city to find nature forming part of the urban landscape; that it is possible to sample fine cuisine, either from Spain or from any other corner of the world. Also note that there are traditional marketplaces and signature state-of-the-art markets where you can call in for a bite; that the outdoor cafés are not just for summer; that shopping is more convenient thanks to the pedestrian areas; that it is possible to sleep in palaces, or in charming hotels; or that Madrid is just a short journey away from many other UN Heritage sites. The modern, sustainable and leading-edge capital that Madrid has become could not miss the opportunity to promote its tourist attractions with an innovative guide, like the one you now have in your hands. This is a practical guide with plans for every month of the year, for every day of the week and for every hour of the day, to suit everyone’s pocket, taste or mood. Because this is Madrid: a diverse city which constantly innovates and reinvents itself to delight and satisfy anyone in search of a different lifestyle. www.esmadrid.com 003
  • 4.
    ART AND CULTU- ONTHE ROOFTOPS Reach up to the sky from the terrace of the Hotel Urban. 004 www.esmadrid.com
  • 5.
    a way oflife 010 About Madrid Our tourist information services are here to help you make the most of your visit. 015. Highlights Published by: Madrid Visitors & Convention Bureau (Madrid MV&CB). Deputy Mayor's Office. Madrid City Council. Chairperson: Miguel Ángel Villanueva. CEO: Ignacio Fernández. Managing Director: Mar de Miguel. Head of Tourist Promotion and Destination Management: Miguel Sanz. Director of Publications and Content: Carlos Menéndez Editing: Silvia Roba, Ignacio Vleming, Isabel Morales, Fernando Pretus, Anne-Lise Leclerc, Judith Grayland. Marketing: Caroline Tensi and Verónica Casares. Director of Business Development: Mercedes Posada. Production: La Factoría. Valentín Beato, 48 – 3ª planta. 28037 Madrid. Tel.No.: 915 386 118 Director of La Factoría: Virginia Lavín. Assistant director: Javier Olivares. Project Manager: Ángel L. Esteban. Original design and Art direction: José Antonio Gutiérrez. Layout Manager: Pedro Díaz Ayala. Texts: Txema Ybarra, Anabel Vázquez, Beatriz H. Cembellín, Francis Pachá, Claudio Martín, Rosana Torres, Gloria Montero. Print edition: Paola Pérez (director), Rosa García Villarrubia, Ángel Manzano. Photography: Luis Rubio, Chus Eto, Alberto Ortega, Roberto Iván Cano, Adolfo Callejo, Javier Morán, Ofelia de Pablo, Juan Lafita, Daniel Alea, Alfredo Arias, Javier Mantrana, AGE FOTOSTOCK, CORDON PRESS, EFE, EL PAIS, FOTOTECA, GETTY IMAGES, IBERIMAGE, FIROFOTO Madrid VCB. Illustrations: Jaime Martínez (main maps p.6-7, p.40-41, p.134-135), Alberto García (route maps). Production Director: Francisco Alba. Printing: Palgraphic. Legal Deposit: M-48914-2011. Cover: Royal Palace Photo: © Paolo Giocoso/SIME/FOTOTECA The information may have been modified after this edition went to press. Readers can find updated information on the website www.esMADRID.com. 12 essentials for 2013, a monthby-month report on the events you shouldn’t miss this year. 023. 7 days / 7 plans There are a thousand and one things to do in Madrid every day of the week. Check out these plans we’ve organized to suit your preferences or mood. 039. Take your pick Suggestions for all the family in Madrid’s enchanting districts and neighbourhoods. 039. ART & CULTURE Discover the Art Walk, Royal Madrid, the Golden Age, new locations, galleries and the major urban landmarks. 063. FOOD & DRINK Savour the most traditional dishes and the latest signature cuisine; delight in the art of snacking on tapas washed down with a glass of wine or beer; and make the most of the cocktail trend which is all the rage. 079. SHOPPING Something for everyone, at affordable prices, any day of the week. Wander the streets of Madrid as you shop to your heart’s content. 099. FUN & GAMES By day, in the evening or at night. Sports, shows and nights that turn into mornings. 121. AS A FAMILY The big city takes care of entertainment for the youngest members of the family. There is a whole world waiting to be discovered. 133. GREEN MADRID Historical parks, secret gardens, pedestrian areas and sunsets. 145. GAYFRIENDLY MADRID Madrid welcomes everyone and is noted as a global example of diversity. 153. SLEEPING A great variety of options for an unforgettable stay. 161. DAY TRIPS Short excursions around Madrid and high-speed getaways by AVE to major Spanish cities. 167. Services Access by air, rail and road. City transport, weather, opening hours, bank holidays, accessibility, where to find Wifi areas and several maps of Madrid to help you get around the city as you please. LG BT ART & CULTURE FOOD & DRINK SHOPPING LEISURE LUXURY FAMILY GREEN LGBT SLEEPING DAY TRIPS
  • 6.
    54. CONDE DUQUE 109/138. PRINCESA 102/122/136. CASA DECAMPO For a day out with the family, come and discover Madrid’s green lung. Museums, wine bars, alfresco dining and trendy shopping around the former Barracks. Shopping, films in their original language and tree-lined avenues, from Moncloa to Plaza de España. 51/84/106/141. GRAN VÍA/SOL Pedestrian areas and musicals invade the city centre’s main shopping street. 44/70/72/116/139. HAPSBURG DISTRICT Relive the history of the city as you wander the streets, from Plaza Mayor to the Royal Palace. 57/102/134. MADRID RÍO Discover the city's newest green area - it's great for walking and cycling. 65/72/82/116/118. LA LATINA The epitome of the art of the tapa. The little squares and taverns are always packed to the brim.
  • 7.
    139. CHAMBERÍ Small palaces, public squares,good restaurants and art galleries. Savour the local life. 56/100. CASTELLANA From Colón to the Cuatro Torres, calling in at the Bernabéu; this avenue has it all. 70/72/139/141. MALASAÑA You’ll be blown away by its alternative scene, by day and night. 49/70/84. SALESAS 72/80. SALAMANCA Shopping around Serrano is an unmissable experience. A modernist style and elegant atmosphere. Pubs, shopping and charming streets. 70/72/146 CHUECA Diversity is the name of the game in this welcoming neighbourhood which reinvents itself constantly. 103/122/136. RETIRO A green oasis in the heart of the city. Walk, cycle or skate around it. 40/154. THE ART WALK 46/72/84. LITERARY QUARTER 69/72/116. LAVAPIÉS From Cibeles to Atocha, the city’s most important museums flank this beautiful tree-lined boulevard. A host of possibilities suggest themselves as you walk from Plaza de Santa Ana to Calle Huertas. The most exotic flavours in this most traditional of neighbourhoods. A multicolor atmosphere. www.esmadrid.com 07
  • 8.
    un estilo devida The best of Madrid on your iPad FREE FROM THE APP STORE* Whatever your tastes, this is where you'll find all the latest in art, culture, gastronomy, night life, new venues, family activities, sport, LGBT, and much more. Get ‘guíaMadrid12’ from the App Store. *Application only available in Spanish. For the online version in English go to: www.esmadrid.com/madridguide 8 www.esmadrid.com
  • 10.
    TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES If you're comingto enjoy a few days in Madrid remember that, as a tourist, you have a wealth of resources at your fingertips, from information centres and websites through to a wide range of benefits and routes for exploring the city. TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES PLAZA MAYOR TOURIST CENTER Plaza Mayor, 27 (Casa de la Panadería. Ground Floor) Tel. 91 454 44 10. Mon-Sun: 9.30am-8.30pm turismo@esmadrid.com The first stop for tourists arriving in Madrid is the central tourist information office in Plaza Mayor. This modern centre located in Casa de la Panadería has everything you need to know about the capital's cultural and leisure attractions and can supply you with all kinds of information. Services include specialist assistance, ticket sales for the Official Guided Tours programme, a Remember Madrid point with information about the various tourist loyalty programmes, self-service consultation, technology area (audiovisual information, free Internet access, Wifi zone, free downloadable audioguides, personalised leaflets and virtual map), special service points providing information in Asian languages and Russian, as well as a range of accessible services. COLÓN TOURIST CENTER Located in a former underground passage between Calle Génova and Calle Goya Mon-Sun: 9.30am-8.30pm This tourist office provides the following services: face- 010 www.esmadrid.com to-face and specialist assistance, self-service consultation, Remember Madrid (information on tourist loyalty programmes run by Madrid City Council), technology area (audiovisual information, free Internet access and Wifi zone) and a Learn Spanish information point with specific information for people interested in learning the language. An outdoor screen in the middle of the street displays a daily city and cultural calendar. OTHER INFORMATION POINTS *Plaza de Cibeles *Plaza del Callao *Paseo del Arte (on Calle Santa Isabel, next to the Reina Sofía Museum). *Madrid-Barajas Airport: Terminal 2 (arrivals hall) and Terminal 4 (arrival halls 10 and 11).
  • 11.
    SATE FOREIGN TOURIST ASSISTANCE SERVICE Leganitos,19 Incidents Tel. 902 10 21 12 Mon-Sun: 9am-12 midnight satemadrid@esmadrid.com SATE offers foreign tourists visiting the city personalised assistance in the event of any incident that requires them to visit a police station. The service is operated by specialist staff. Tourists are given help with reporting the incident and with completing any other paperwork relating to their situation. Visitors and their families are also offered counselling if they need it. LOYALTY PROGRAMMES Taking part in the loyalty programmes run by Madrid City Council gives you the chance to discover the city in a different and enjoyable way. When you join the Discover Madrid Club and take part in the Official Guided Tours programme, you'll also be eligible to enjoy a series of additional benefits. Snap Madrid gives you two routes for photographing monuments and suggested locations, and Snap Madrid Río takes in a series of bridges over the Manzanares River. Once you've completed them, you get a souvenir of the city. A tour specially designed for families, Madrid: A Family Experience, enables parents and children to discover Madrid through educational games and puzzles while they follow three self-guided routes. Visitors who register on the database will also be kept up to date on all the news and tourist products that match their profile. www.esmadrid.com 011
  • 12.
    OFFICIAL GUIDED TOURS Allyear round and as part of its Official Guided Tours programme, Madrid City Council runs a wide variety of sightseeing tours in different languages (Spanish, English, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Japanese and Dutch). You can choose from: *Routes by bike *Family tours and storytellers *Unmissable: -Essential Madrid I: Hapsburg and La Latina -Essential Madrid II: Cervantes and the Literary Quarter -Essential Madrid III: El Retiro and the Art Walk *Specially adapted tours for people with physical, sensory or intellectual disabilities Whenever you see this stamp in the magazine, it means there is a guided tour that passes the exact spot mentioned on that page. Find out more about the Official Guided Tours programme, prices and sales points on: www.esmadrid.com/officialguidedtours 012 www.esmadrid.com ESMADRIDMAGAZINE A free monthly publication in Spanish and English, featuring the highlights from the month's cultural calendar, plus interviews and reports on Madrid's temporary and permanent entertainment options. You can pick up a copy of the magazine at any of the city's tourist centres and information points, as well as in leading hotels, restaurants, shops and cultural centres. It is also available for download from www.esmadrid.com/en/esmadridmagazine
  • 13.
    MADRID CITY TOUR MadridCity Tour is probably one of the simplest and most comfortable ways of getting a feel for the city. All you have to do is buy a ticket, hop on the bus, put your headphones on to listen to the audioguide, sit back and enjoy the streets, monuments and places of interest, with the advantage that you can hop off wherever you feel like it. Tickets are valid for one or two days, depending on your chosen rate, and you can get on and off the bus as many times as you like along route one, route two or both. Madrid City Tour has audioguides in 14 languages (Spanish, English, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Russian, Japanese, Dutch, Chinese, Arabic, Catalan, Basque and Galician) Tel. 902 02 47 58 (24 h) Times: March-October: 9am-10pm November-February: 10am-6pm Ticket sales: buses, hotels, travel agencies, MCT Information Centre (Calle Felipe IV, next to the Prado Museum) and on www.madridcitytour.es More information and prices: www.esmadrid.com/en/madridcitytour Sol. The final stretch rejoins Paseo del Prado and takes you to the Botanical Gardens, then on to the Reina Sofía and Thyssen-Bornemisza museums. The extended version of this route, which runs twice a day (4.40pm and 8.40pm), goes to Madrid Río and the Moncloa area. ROUTE TWO The second Madrid City Tour option starts at the same place, next to the Prado Museum, but in this case it travels along the city's main arteries, Castellana, Prado and Recoletos, and through neighbouring streets. One of the most spectacular buildings lining this route is Cibeles Palace, but there are other striking landmarks in the Castellana area as well, such as Marqués de Salamanca Palace, Nuevos Ministerios, the AZCA shopping centre and the Santiago Bernabéu football stadium. The bus also passes through the Salamanca district, with its designer boutiques and the Lázaro Galdiano Museum. Finally, the route takes in Puerta del Sol and the Spanish parliament building, Congreso de los Diputados, before arriving at the last stop in Plaza de Neptuno. This second route also operates an extended version twice a day (4.50pm and 8.50pm), which includes these sights plus the new Cuatro Torres Business Area, with the city's tallest buildings, before returning via Las Ventas bullring. WWW.ESMADRID.COM Madrid City Council's website is packed with everything you need to know about tourism, leisure and business in the city. This essential guide offers detailed information about services, monuments, museums and other must-visit places, together with a comprehensive tourist information database (hotels, restaurants, shops, etc.) and a calendar of cultural events taking place in Madrid (exhibitions, theatre, sport and much more). ROUTE ONE Calle Felipe IV, next to the Prado Museum, is the starting point for this route that takes you to Puerta de Alcalá, followed by the Prado-Recoletos artery, the location of the Neptuno and Cibeles fountains, before continuing up Gran Vía. The bus travels along this main thoroughfare towards Plaza de España, passing in front of the Temple of Debod, until it reaches the old part of the city, where you'll discover the Royal Palace, La Almudena Cathedral and Puerta del www.esmadrid.com 013
  • 14.
    MADRIDSHOP Plaza Mayor, 27 Tel.91 541 01 85 Mon-Sun: 9.30am-8.30pm MadridShop is the city's official store. Inside, it is designed to represent and promote Madrid life and place it within visitors' reach. The shop interior features recycled, sustainable and energy-saving materials that are environmentally-friendly and is completely accessible to people with reduced mobility. You can find the perfect memento of your trip here: music, books, audiovisual items and much more. This is also the place to get your MadridCard, the essential city pass. MADRIDCARD Have the city at your fingertips with MadridCard. The key to discovering secrets of the city. This sightseeing pass enables you to make your way around Ma- 014 www.esmadrid.com drid easily, enjoyably and with minimum fuss. For a very reasonable price, it entitles you to discounts in shops and restaurants, on the Essential Madrid tour in the Official Guided Tours programme, and on entry fees to over 50 museums. You also get preferential entry to the Prado and Reina Sofía museums, the Royal Palace, the Bernabéu Tour and the Wax Museum, which saves you having to queue. Along with this tourist card, you get a guide in Spanish, English, Italian, German and French with a map of the city and everything you need to know about MadridCard partner museums, services and establishments (restaurants, cafés and shops). Depending on the fee you choose to pay, MadridCard can be used for 24, 48, 72 or 120 hours. Special children’s prices available. You can buy MadridCard in the MadridShop, located inside the Plaza Mayor tourist office, and on the Internet. See more information on www.madridcard.com.
  • 15.
    WHAT'S ON 16-21 IT'S OFFICIAL:YOU SIMPLY CAN'T GET BORED IN MADRID YOU'LL ALWAYS HAVE THE BEST CHOICE OF THINGS TO DO IN YOUR SPARE TIME: ART, THEATRE, MUSIC, SCIENCE, SPORT, SHOPPING AND MUCH, MUCH MORE. HERE ARE 12 EXAMPLES OF WHAT YOU COULD BE DOING IN 2013.
  • 16.
    Highlights GET OUT YOURDIARY AND MAKE A NOTE: MADRID OFFERS YOU AN UNMISSABLE EVENT FOR EVERY MONTH OF THE YEAR. YOU'LL FIND ALL KINDS OF THINGS, FROM CULTURE AND SPORT THROUGH TO FOOD AND DRINK. >>>>>> KEEP UP WITH IT ALL ON www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid ANUARY Quick, the sales are on! When the Christmas lights are switched off and the city seems to go into winter hibernation, along come the sales to liven up the streets again (sometimes even earlier). At this time of year everyone flocks to the shops in Gran Vía, Serrano and Salesas (page 80), a ritual that is repeated with the arrival of summer and the change of 016 www.esmadrid.com season. You'll also find attractive discounts all year round in outlet centres such as Las Rozas Village (page 92) and in themed street markets. >WHEN: From 7 January. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS THEM: You'll best prices on the best products. get the
  • 17.
    EBRUARY Passion for collecting atARCOmadrid This year, Spain's largest contemporary art fair is expected to attract 200 galleries and 3,000 artists from all over the world, offering a tour of the latest art trends. Now's the time to make a start on your own collection. >WHEN: From 13 to 17 February. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: Amazing art coupled with some fantastic activities. ARCH The Real opera house hits the high notes As they do every season, the Teatro Real opera house is organising a full operatic programme that this year includes a performance of Les pêcheurs de perles (The Pearl Fishers), one of Bizet’s most exotic operas. Famous tenor Juan Diego Flórez will be singing the role of Nadir, a fisherman passionately in love. This three-act opera is conducted by Daniel Oren. Mozart’s Don Giovanni is due to be staged in April. >WHEN: 25, 28 and 31 March. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The quality of the show and the grandeur of the stage. www.esmadrid.com 017
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    PRIL The pace picksup at the Madrid Marathon Commonly known as Mapoma, this year the race is part of the Rock 'n' Roll Marathon Series, the world's biggest city running circuit. Are you up for it? There will be live music on over 20 stages, plus a finish line concert. >WHEN: 28 April. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It will be an entertainment-packed route, with music and performances. AY Tennis aces Since 2009, the Mutua Madrid Open has been the fiſth Masters 1000 event of the year. Winners of last year’s tournament were Roger Federer and Serena Williams; in 2011 victory went to Novak Djokovic and Petra Kvitova, and in 2010 the event was won by Rafael Nadal and Aravane Rezai. Tickets on sale at www. madrid-open.com >WHEN: From 3 to 12 May. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It's one of the key tournaments on the ATP calendar. 018 www.esmadrid.com
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    UNE The focus ison PHotoEspaña In partnership with museums, art galleries and other cultural centres, this ambitious festival shows audiovisual work from all over the world, combining daring and quality in a heartfelt tribute to photography. You have two months to see it. >WHEN: 5 June to 28 July. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The whole city is a showcase for the work of top photographers. ULY The great Gay Pride march Every year the LGBT Pride festival draws hundreds of thousands of people to the city. A huge party at which everyone is welcome, it comes packed with opening speeches, live concerts and lots more. The most eagerly-awaited event is the Gay Pride parade, which runs along Calle Alcalá and Gran Vía (page 147). >WHEN: From 3 to 7 July. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The last two years have been billed as the best gay event in the world. www.esmadrid.com 019
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    UGUST Veranos de laVilla festival Over its 31 years of existence, the Veranos de la Villa festival has become an essential date on Madrid's cultural calendar during the hot summer months, with a series of openair evening performances bringing a welcome breath of fresh air. >WHEN: June-August. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: You'll get the chance to see star performers in unique settings. EPTEMBER 'Deco' festival The Literary Quarter puts on its finery for a few days in September. Streets and shops dress up to celebrate DecorAcción, an event focusing on art and decoration characterised by urban intervention. Shop windows move out onto the street and make their mark in a brilliant Antiques Market. >WHEN: September. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: You can find some really unusual decorative items. 020 www.esmadrid.com
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    CTOBER Architecture Week Guided toursof buildings, exhibitions and workshops are just a few of the activities on offer during Architecture Week, when you can get a feel for Madrid's built heritage (page 51). Equally interesting are the talks and lectures taking place during the event, given by leading international architects. >WHEN: October. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It's a great chance to discover hidden gems. ECEMBER It's Christmas time When December rolls around, Christmas traditions envelop the streets and many take on a modern look. Watch bright lights coming on at dusk, smell the aroma of roasted chestnuts waſting through the air and join the bustling shopping centres full of people on the lookout for the best giſts, as Madrid pulls out all the stops for the merriest time of the year (page 132). OVEMBER Madrid gets jazz fever >WHEN: Until 6 January. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: Its old spirit lives on. Open your ears to all kinds of sounds, from bebop to Latin beats. The Madrid International Jazz Festival is a journey through music across the globe, from north to south, east to west, featuring live performances by big-name artists on the various stages spread over the whole city. >WHEN: November. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: The programme includes some great virtuosos. www.esmadrid.com 021
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    7 PLANS 24-37 ITINERARIES TO MATCHYOUR MOOD. FOR SUNNY OR GREY DAYS, WHETHER YOU WAKE UP CRAVING SOME CLEAN AIR, WITH AN URGE TO GO SHOPPING OR TO HAVE FUN WITH YOUR CHILDREN. HERE ARE SOME IDEAS TO SUIT EVERYONE’S TASTE.
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    7 Plan your dayto suit your mood IF YOU WAKE UP TO BLUE SKIES IT’S A KNOWN FACT THAT THE LIGHT IN MADRID IS SPECTACULAR. ADMIRE THE COLOURS OF EL RETIRO, DISCOVER THE PASEO DEL PRADO, TAKE A CULTU RAL STROLL THROUGH THE CITY’S STREETS AND ENJOY A SPECTACULAR SUNSET. Greenery 01 01. Oxygen in El Retiro Wake up at your own pace   A day that begins under the trees in El Retiro can not end too badly. Roam around this enormous park at your leisure. If you enjoy walking, why not ramble along its paths? If you prefer running, jog along the track around the park. If skating’s your thing, the Paseo de Coches is the place for you. An hour in the park will provide you with enough oxygen and endorphins for the rest of the week. Art 02. A morning at the Reina Sofía and the Prado Half morning visits   Both museums are open on Mondays. The pioneer was the Reina Sofia. Of course, you can visit Picasso’s Guernica on permanent display here, but also check out its programme of temporary exhibitions. Find some time to spend in La Central, one of Madrid’s finest bookshops. It’s always a good idea to add a visit to the Prado to your Monday schedule, an ideal day for peacefully browsing through its vast exhibition rooms. 024 www.esmadrid.com 02
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    Gastromoment 03. Curry orginger? Multicultural ingredients .  All this culture can make you hungry. You can satisfy it very close by in Lavapiés, where you will find some of Madrid’s best ethnic restaurants. Along Calle Ave María is a variety of Thai, Indian and Lebanese restaurants, all as affordable as they are delicious. More culture 04. Aſternoon in the Mapfre centre Visit, observe and tell everyone about it   Take a stroll from Lavapiés to Recoletos. Walk along the Paseo del Prado to burn off your lunch until you reach your destination: the nineteenth century palace, home to the Mapfre Foundation. This intimate venue organises some extraordinary temporary exhibitions. Monday is the quietest day. If you happen to be visiting an exhibition at this time of the aſternoon, you are certainly doing something right. 03 Tapas time 05. An evening in Las Salesas A trendy sunset   If your task of the day has been to become inspired by the city, it is now time to rest. The streets around the Salesas neighbourhood are a meeting place, as evening draws in, for designers, journalists and local residents. On practically every corner you will find a place to enjoy a cocktail, sip a wine from Madrid or nibble on a slice of Spanish omelette, which every bar claims to make better than anyone else. 04 05 www.esmadrid.com 025
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    7 WALKING IN THERAIN MADRID BOASTS MANY DAYS OF SUNLIGHT DURING THE YEAR, BUT IF YOU ARE CAUGHT OUT IN THE RAIN, THIS ISN’T A PROBLEM SINCE THERE ARE A PLETHORA OF OPTIONS TO MAKE YOUR DAY JUST AS BRIGHT. 01 Important 01. Buy yourself an umbrella And make it a stylish one   Casa de Diego, in Puerta del Sol, has been selling the finest umbrellas since 1858, like the ones Mary Poppins used, in addition to shawls, fans and castanets. Shopping 03 02. Strolling along Preciados Free from the disturbance of traffic .  This is the most traditional shopping street in Madrid, pedestrianised for hassle-free window shopping, which is much appreciated, especially on rainy days. Seek refuge in any of the nearby department stores. Snacking 03. San Miguel market Gourmet tastings   An open-plan covered market, and an emblem of culinary delights since its recent restoration. Here you will find oyster stalls, cheese counters and sweet sellers. 026 www.esmadrid.com
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    After lunch 04. FineArts Circle Goldfish Bowl A city centre vantage point 04 05 .  The storm is brewing. Watch the hustle and bustle of the Calle Alcalá, through the immense windows of the long-established coffee house at the Fine Arts Circle. The coming and going of vehicles and passers-by is a sight worth seeing. Take the opportunity to visit some of the interesting art and photographic exhibitions programmed throughout the year. Theatre 05. Drama and comedy Madrid takes the stage   Classics and contemporary plays, laughter and tears, performance art and musicals, stand-up comics and international shows; all the great names in acting make an appearance on the stage of Madrid’s theatres. The bigger theatres usually have more seats available on week days; take the opportunity to book your seat and enjoy the show. www.esmadrid.com 027
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    7 TODAY YOU AREFEELING GREEN FOLLOWING IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF MADRID RIO YOU CAN VISIT UP TO SEVEN PARKS, EACH ONE OFFERING A WORLD TO DISCO VER, A FAMILY DAY OUT OR A GREAT CYCLING EXPERIENCE. Breakfast 01. Neighbourhood spirit Arganzuela Park   Start the day in any of the cafés that flank the park’s entrance while contemplating the city as it awakes before your stroll or bicycle ride. Science 02. A 3D Universe Tierno Galván Park .  If you continue along the leſt bank of the Manzanares River you will see the Planetarium and the dome of the Imax, where spectacular 3D documentaries are shown in its morning sessions. With a view 03. Picnic on the peak Linear Park of the Manzanares River   In addition to its fantastic cycle track, it offers splendid views over the city. We suggest you stop for a picnic under the shade of the Lady of the Manzanares by Manolo Valdés. 028 www.esmadrid.com 01 03
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    Sport 04. Ballcourts, climbing walland skates Matadero Park   To burn off your lunch, make your way to the Legazpi district, the perfect place for sports enthusiasts to practice any kind of activities, from cycling and skate boarding to rock climbing. Matadero (pg 48) is a mustvisit for art and culture lovers. 04 05 05 Patron Saint 05. Visit the shrine Pradera de San Isidro .  If you visit during the festival period (May) you can witness the most quintessential side of the city. If not, the shrine, a perennial icon of popular tradition, is an agreeable and peaceful place. One of its curiosities is that is offers a Mozarabic mass on Sundays at midday and on Tuesdays at 5.30 pm. For dining out 06. A memorable evening Casa de Campo Park .  Not many people know this, but in Madrid’s immense country park there is also a Culinary Route, with top class restaurants to suit everyone’s pocket. Drinks 07 07. The origins of Madrid Atenas Park   Just by Puente de Segovia, and at the foot of the Arabic wall, its famous outdoor café is a popular haunt in summer when the sun goes down. In winter, you could opt for one of the cafés or bars in the nearby Vistillas or on Cuesta de la Vega. www.esmadrid.com 029
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    7 INCORRIGIBLE URBANITES IN MADRID,IN ANY STREET IN THE CITY CENTRE YOU WILL FIND THE LATEST TRENDS, AND ON ANY NIGHT THERE ARE PLENTY OF PEOPLE AROUND TO GUARANTEE A GOOD TIME. A TIP: GO OUT ON THE TOWN ON THURSDAYS. 01 02 With a view 01.A breakfast for champions Plaza de la Independencia   A slice of toasted baguette with tomato and olive oil, accompanied by coffee or tea will provide you with the energy you need for the day. Or, if you prefer, croissants and madeleines. You can breakfast outdoors, by the gates of the Retiro, while watching the world go by at the Puerta de Alcalá. Shopping 03 02. Find the latest styles On the hunt for up-to-theminute trends .  Before going out for the evening, make your way to the districts where fashion is always one step ahead. Men will love Conde Duque, the girls will fall for Salesas, and the fashionistas will be delighted by the streets around Triball. Lunch 03. Menu of the day Home-cooking   Succulent food at an affordable fixed price. This is the best way to sample homecooked food in the eateries of the neighbourhoods of Chamberí, Lavapiés and Chueca. 030 www.esmadrid.com
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    Decotour 04. Centuries ofhistory are watching over us Rediscover the Literary Quarter   This district has been spectacularly revamped. Without losing sight of its 04 artisan and popular traditional ambience, it is now home to numerous home décor 05 and antiquarian establishments where 05 you might wish to treat yourself to some shopping. An ideal setting for an aſternoon stroll, with a break for a bite to eat in any of the district’s cafés. Art 05. Gallery openings The first in line   Thursday is oſten the day for inaugurating new exhibitions. Take the opportunity to visit one of the city’s best art galleries. Check out the city’s events calendar at www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid 06 Gastrobars 06. The ‘aſterwork’ trend Shall we go for a drink?   This is the starting point for sharing some light refreshments with friends aſter finishing work. A few beers to start off the evening, to wash down the tapas, continuing with a couple of glasses of wine and finishing off with a tantalizing cocktail. www.esmadrid.com 031
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    7 FOR INCURABLE HEDONISTS INTHE MORNING, ART; BEFORE LUNCH, AN APPETIZER; AT MIDDAY, A FINE RESTAURANT; TO UNWIND, A SPA; IN THE EVENING, A SHOW AND A FEW DRINKS. WHAT MORE COULD YOU ASK FOR? 01 An art-filled morning 360 degrees 01. Every possible style Paseo del Prado 02. A high rise view Cibeles Palace   M Having seen the treasures of the Art Walk inside the museums, now is the time to take a global view from outside. There is no better place for this than from the vantage point of the roof of the CentroCentro, from where you can admire spectacular panoramic views over Madrid. Start the day with a coffee on any of the outdoor cafés at the end of Calle Huertas. From here you are just a few short steps away from the best museums in Madrid. To the right is the CaixaForum with its vertical garden; a little further along is the Reina Sofía museum. To the leſt is the Thyssen museum. And just opposite, the Prado. All museums offer guided visits and educational programmes for children. 032 www.esmadrid.com
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    At the table 03.Table service Salamanca district 04 .  On the streets crisscrossing the Goya, Velázquez and Serrano districts, it is possible to eat at some of the best restaurants in Madrid. From the creations of prize-winning chefs boasting Michelin stars to the best seasonal cuisine. Relax 04. Pamper yourself Wellbeing for your body   To restore your energy before going out on the town, many of Madrid’s top hotels offer spa and massage services. Alternatively, you could visit one of the many sports centres and gyms open to the public. Theatre 05 05. Curtains up Classics, comedy and musicals .  All eyes all on the Madrid stage, which has become a great cultural attraction, with a varied programme featuring top international shows and famed actors. “Movida” 06. The youngest itinerary From Chueca to Malasaña 06   Most of Madrid’s nightlife is concentrated in these two districts. In the first you can experience a laid-back LGTB ambience. Malasaña is just around the corner and has lost none of its appeal to the alternative crowd with a recent face-liſt and a great selection of nightclubs catering for every musical taste. www.esmadrid.com 033
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    7 NOT WITHOUT MYCHILDREN MADRID IS A CELEBRATION, WHETHER YOU ARE 5 YEARS OLD OR 50. USE THE KIDS AS AN EXCUSE TO RIDE ON ALL KINDS OF AT TRACTIONS OR TO ASK RONALDO FOR HIS AUTOGRAPH. 02 Greenery and zoo Boating 01. Morning leisure time Casa de Campo   Any excuse is a good excuse to visit the Casa de Campo: spend a morning wandering through the trees, test your fitness on the exercise apparatus, pedal along the cycling routes, row a boat on the lake or visit the animals at the zoo. Thematic fairs and sports competitions are frequently held here. Appetizer 02. All aboard the Cable Car Paseo de Rosales 03 M Take the opportunity to cross the Manzanares on board the hanging cabins which take you to the Parque del Oeste, another of Madrid’s vast green spaces, with bars and outdoor tables, a perfect place for a snack while you watch the children play. Refreshment 03. À la carte or at the bar San Anton Market   Now is the time to hop on the Metro to Chueca.This is the latest market to have opened and already it is a hit with the public with its varied food stalls, its contemporary design and fabulous atmosphere. Do not forget to visit the outdoor café on the roof. 034 www.esmadrid.com
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    Castellana 04. An aſternoon withidols There’s something for everyone .  Accompany the children on a visit to the Wax Museum in Colón and end the aſternoon with a walk up the Castellana (or take the bus if you prefer) to the Santiago Bernabeu stadium, football’s maximum exponent. If there isn’t a match on, you can always see the pitch from inside the stadium and the trophy room. Shopping 05. Open on bank holidays Madrid never closes   Begin by updating your kit in the Real Madrid shop and then head off to the children’s clothes shops in the Salamanca district, also open on Sundays (as is the rest of the city centre). Madrid residents say this is the best day to go shopping. 04 Before going to bed 06. Hot chocolate with 'churros' Irresistible   Aſter such a busy day you need to restore your energy. The San Ginés hot chocolate bar close to Sol is legendary, and not to be missed. In the aſternoon it has a family atmosphere while at night it is a required stop for nighthawks, as it is open until dawn. 06 05 www.esmadrid.com 035
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    7 A PERFECT SUNDAY FOLLOWTHE EXAMPLE SET BY MADRID’S INHABITANTS WHO TRADITIONALLY SPEND THEIR FREE DAYS WITH THEIR FRIENDS AND FAMILY. A RECENT DEVELOPMENT IS STORES IN CENTRAL DISTRICTS OPENING ON SUNDAYS. Shopping Breakfast 01. Sniff out a bargain at the Rastro A thousand and one curiosities 02. A full brunch Everything you could wish for   Plaza de Cascorro and Calle Ribera de Curtidores are covered with hundreds of stalls from this traditional flea market, where, if you search long enough, you can find practically anything. 01 036 www.esmadrid.com .  What began as a habit introduced by international visitors only catered for by the top class hotels, has now spread throughout the whole city. Café Oliver boast of being the first to serve brunch.
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    A walk 03. Meanderingthrough the streets A medieval walk   03 As well as being an essential place for tapas, the maze of streets of La Latina is ideal for a leisurely walk to discover the medieval atmosphere of its hidden squares, such as Plaza de San Andrés, and its narrow streets such as Cava Baja. After lunch 04. A steaming cup of coffee Walls steeped in history .  Around Calle Segovia you will come across old-time cafés that invite you to stop and chat with friends or cast a glance over the Sunday papers. Remember that many news kiosks open only on Sunday mornings. Arenal 04 06 05. Sunday shopping Open just for you .  Around Plaza Mayor the streets are bustling with a festive and family atmosphere. But not only here. Shops and businesses in the centre of Madrid are allowed to open as they would any other day of the week. Cinema 06. Latest film releases In their original language   In Madrid, subtitled films continue to thrive. Many of the OV cinemas are located around Plaza de los Cubos, close to Plaza de España. In the area there are a few excellent bars where you can enjoy some international tapas aſter the film. www.esmadrid.com 037
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    ART &CULTURE 40-61 4043 THEART WALK 4447 HISTORIC NEIGHBOURHOODS 4849 GALLERY ROUTE 5057 NEW SPACES 5859 WHAT'S ON 6061 INTERVIEW Elena Ochoa
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    THE ART WALK Almost3 km of museums and exhibitions ALTERNATIVE SPACES SUCH AS LA CASA ENCENDIDA, THE REINA SOFÍA AND CAIXAFORUM, CLASSICS INCLUDING THE PRADO AND THE THYSSEN, AND PRIVATE INSTITUTIONS LIKE THE MAPFRE FOUNDATION… WEAR COMFORTABLE SHOES! THE ESSENTIAL ROUTE for art lovers If you haven't stood before Las Meninas, you haven't been to Madrid. This might sound a little over the top, but the Prado Museum and the room within which the public can contemplate this extraordinary painting represent one of the corners of Madrid that visitors can least afford to miss out on. The 040 www.esmadrid.com Prado embodies the spirit of Madrid: regal yet open, local yet universal, vast and yet built on a human scale, solid yet constantly moving. This museum forms part of the so-called Art Walk, a route covering almost three kilometres from the National Library in Plaza de Colón to La Casa Encendida in the Embajadores district.
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    ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM      ,        ,        - ,     . FROM COLÓN TO EMBAJADORES The route encompasses a string of emblematic art institutions, including the ThyssenBornemisza Museum, CaixaForum and the Reina Sofía Museum. Each has its own personality: the Thyssen boasts an outstanding permanent collection of more than a thousand works dating from the 18th century to the end of the 20th; CaixaForum surprises visitors with its temporary exhibitions cover- ing all artistic disciplines without exceptions and "El Reina", as the locals call it, has focused on purely avant-garde movements for the last twenty years. And there's more besides. Other must-visits include the Mapfre Foundation, the Casa de América and the new CentroCentro, located near Plaza de Cibeles. www.esmadrid.com/en/art-walk-madrid www.esmadrid.com 041
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    OPEN!       ,         '        . THE THREE BIG ONES: PRADO, THYSSEN & REINA SOFÍA Three museums, three different personalities. The Prado, designed by Juan de Villanueva and extended by Rafael Moneo, is one of the world's most prestigious art galleries. Alongside Las Meninas by Velázquez and The Third of May 1808 by Goya, its rooms also house various masterpieces of the Spanish, Italian and Flemish schools. The Thyssen-Bornemisza brings together vast exhibitions and a powerful, unique painting collection. It displays some of the best works from the 18th to the 20th centuries, filling in the gaps not covered by its fellow galleries on the Art Walk such as Fauvism and German Expressionism. They really know how to organise blockbusters: this year it has a definite date with Pisarro. The Reina Sofía 042 www.esmadrid.com embraces all minority movements. The reorganisation of the permanent collection and the museum's exhibition programme has a strong avant-garde message: Madrid's audiences have daring tastes. MORE THAN JUST EXHIBITIONS Something is always happening at these three museums. The Prado is an excellent place to have breakfast or buy a giſt. The Reina Sofía boasts one of the best bookshops in the city, La Central, and the Thyssen's patios and conference programme represent one of Madrid's luxuries.
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    OSCAR MARINÉ Designer, illustrator, artist Aspace you recommend. Matadero Madrid, for the diversity of its cultural activities. Your favourite museum. The Reina Sofía, for the versatility of its rooms and magnificent library. Your thoughts on the Prado. Everyone can find inspiration in there. And the Thyssen. We are lucky to have it in Madrid. Madrid's best-kept secret. It's an open secret: the future Royal Collections Museum, designed by Tuõn and Mansilla. Your latest discovery. The Tipos Infames bookshop (San Joaquín, 3). THE THREE CORNERS. The Prado Museum (see previous page), the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum (above) and the Reina Sofía Museum make up the central triangle of art in Madrid. www.esmadrid.com 043
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    www.esmadrid.com/en/architecture-madrid GERARD MORTIER Artistic director atthe Teatro Real Where does your life in Madrid take place? Usually between the Teatro Real and my apartment. Where would you recommend for a quiet meal? The restaurants I like best are Goizeko (Comandante Zurita, 37), Kabuki (Avenida del Presidente Carmona, 2) and, when the weather's good, the gardens of the Hotel Ritz (Pza. de la Lealtad, 5). A walk that inspires you. I really enjoy a stroll in the Retiro Park and the grand boulevards of the city centre. A place to buy a gift. I don't overcomplicate things: I know that in El Corte Inglés I can find everything I need. 044 www.esmadrid.com HAPSBURG Royal Madrid King Felipe II made Madrid the capital of Spain in the 16th century. Both he and his successors would be active residents of Madrid. A perfect example of this is Carlos III (18th century), a great town planner who deserved his nickname as the “Mayor King”. Thanks to him, the capital was transformed from a medieval town into a modern city. The nucleus of this regal Madrid is the Royal Palace, which boasts the most important royal armoury in Europe and is surrounded by the Teatro Real opera house and La Almudena Cathedral. A royal residence since 1764, it is impressive both for its imposing façade and lavish interior, with almost 3,000 rooms open to visitors. Nevertheless, the Spanish monarchs were of an austere nature, and nowhere is this better reflected than in the Hapsburg neighbourhood (Austrias).
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    PLAZA MAYOR '       :       ,         .          . CENTURIES OF HISTORY. On the left-hand page, the Royal Palace presides over Plaza de Oriente. Here, the colonnades of Plaza Mayor never fail to amaze. *SSSSHHHH* PAST AND PRESENT Today, Hapsburg Madrid is one of the most pleasant places to take a walk, and one of the best preserved areas of the city. Nestled in between Puerta del Sol and the Royal Palace, it is a labyrinth of narrow streets, stone buildings, convents and churches. Time has been kind to this sober architecture, even giving it a feeling of vitality. Much frequented by locals and visitors alike, it is also a fine example of how the past is still very present in Madrid without overwhelming the modern city. Monarchs, the aristocracy and their homes are full of mysteries and legends: · It is said that the elegant halls of Linares Palace, which today house Casa de América, are haunted. Many visitors claim to have heard the ghost's voice. · Ataulfo is the name of the spirit that lives in the Reina Sofía Museum. The legend dates back to the 18th century when the building was a hospital. · The Duchess of Osuna organised talks on spiritualism during the Enlightenment at El Capricho Park. Goya produced paintings for the small palace on the grounds, including Witches' Sabbath, now housed in the Lázaro Galdiano Foundation. www.esmadrid.com 045
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    LITERARY QUARTER Echoes ofthe Golden Age The neighbourhood owes its name to the fact that Góngora, Tirso de Molina, Calderón de la Barca and Lope de Vega lived here in the 17th century. To remind us of these illustrious residents, excerpts of their works have been engraved on pavements trodden by many passers-by every day. Its borders are marked by Plaza de Santa Ana, Plaza de las Cortes, Calle de Atocha and Paseo del Prado. Being close to the Prado has naturally led to the establishment of several art spaces in the area. In fact, it has always drawn in musicians, booksellers and antique dealers. In recent years a new generation of traders and artists has emerged, reviving the perennial spirit of the neighbourhood with a 21st-century twist. Everyone is aware that the Literary Quarter possesses a special cultural energy and they pull together to protect it. Today, following a pedestrianisation process that has breathed life into the area, the Literary Quarter takes great care over its ethics and aesthetics. This is a neighbourhood worthy of the great names who lived here a long time ago. *BETWEEN PAGES* »CUESTA DE MOYANO The mecca for all book lovers. Here you can find traditional stalls where books are bought, sold and exchanged. The perfect plan for the weekend. »ATENEO Open to members and researchers, it boasts a vast collection of 19th century pamphlets, monographs and journals. Some interesting conferences also take place here. »NATIONAL LIBRARY Everything published in Spain can be found here. It has just celebrated its 300th anniversary with more vitality than ever. »INSTITUTO CERVANTES LIBRARY This space is targeted at a multicultural public interested in the Spanish language. It has a good video library and guarantees peace and quiet to work in. 046 www.esmadrid.com NEIGHBOURHOOD LIFE. In and around Calle de las Huertas you can feel the inspiration of literature and the arts, and you will often stumble across street performances here.
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    MARTA ETURA Actress, winnerof the Goya Award for Celda 211 Your favourite spot. The roof terrace of the Fine Arts Circle. I love the view over the rooftops. Where might we be able to find you? In the Literary Quarter, browsing its interior design stores, galleries and antique shops. Your perfect time and place. Gran Vía. 5am. A terrace. My terrace, or that of the hotel ME (Pza. Santa Ana, 14). A place to eat with friends. Maxi (Cava Alta, 4): on Thursdays and Saturdays they do a delicious Madrid-style stew. A place to buy a gift. I usually head to the area of Calle de Piamonte. MADRID'S LITERARY QUARTER 01. Pza. del ¸ngel 02. Teatro Espaol 03. Ateneo 04. Pza. de las Cortes 05. Thyssen Museum 06. Pza. de la Platería 07. Prado Museum 08. CaixaForum 09. Reina Sofía Museum 10. Cine Doré www.esmadrid.com 047
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    www.esmadrid.com/en/art-madrid GALLERY ROUTE Themost contemporary art Every year in February Madrid bustles with the arrival of ARCOMadrid, to the delight of all collectors. Free valuations will be offered by the fair itself for the second year running for those who wish to start their own collection. Its influence as a prominent art market reaches across the whole city, all year round. Madrid's galleries are behind the indisputable masters of modern art in Spain, such as Tàpies, Barceló and Gris, as well as the innovative force represented by young avant-garde artists. There are a number of gallery routes across the city centre. You might decide to visit the galleries of the Literary Quarter, small yet very up-to-date, or the long-standing ones in Chamberí. New spaces are springing up in the Salamanca district, already a pioneer back in the 1960s. Other good routes can be found near the Reina Sofía Museum, not to mention those scattered across the Salesas neighbourhood. Whatever the choice, each one offers a stimulating dip into the art world. ARCO IT'S A FIESTA        ,       .   ,      . 048 www.esmadrid.com
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    CREATIVE DYNAMISM. On thispage: an exhibition room at La Fábrica cultural centre, and the Instituto Cervantes. Previous page: Ivorypress gallery. *SALESAS* Although there are galleries all over Madrid, the highest proportion is to be found in the Salesas neighbourhood. The area is home to contemporary classics such as the Juana de Aizpuru, Max Estrella, La Caja Negra, Moriarty, Elvira González and Rita Castellote galleries. A stroll down its wide streets confirms its status as Madrid's own Soho. GERARDO MOSQUERA @GerardoMosquer1 Curator for PHotoEspaña A walk that inspires you. From Puerta del Sol to Hapsburg Madrid. To get away from it all. The Royal Botanical Gardens. The best views. From the roof terrace of the Fine Arts Circle. The most special light. The sunset from the terrace at La Almudena Cathedral. Your latest discovery. RMS El Espacio (www.rms.com.es). Classicism versus avant-garde. The Prado Museum and Matadero Madrid. A local tip. The San Miguel and San Antõn markets. Something that always surprises you about Madrid. The intensity of its nightlife. www.esmadrid.com 049
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    MADRID AT YOUR FEET            ' ,    , ,        . CENTROCENTRO. The renovated interior of Cibeles Palace is open to residents and visitors alike - a unique, multipurpose space with viewpoint, auditorium and restaurant/café. 050 www.esmadrid.com
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    CIBELES PALACE A trueicon of Madrid STARTING POINT The same building is also home to CentroCentro, 30,000 square metres of exhibition space and platforms for debate, an auditorium for chamber music events, and its Patio de Operaciones, a place to socialise, take a seat, relax and contemplate your next visit, or read some more about Madrid. It also boasts an impressive Glass Gallery: some of the city's best celebrations are held here. But the jewel in the palace's crown is the viewpoint. It stands 70 metres from the ground, offering 360 degree views over the heart of Madrid. The restaurant which opened in 2012 is on the top floor of the building. 02 03 04 05 06 07 A popular spot for snapshots in Madrid is undoubtedly Cibeles Palace. In fact, the whole square invites a constant stream of amateur photographers capturing their memories of Madrid in the form of a photo. Now, Plaza de Cibeles, as open and vibrant as the city itself, has taken on new life. It has gone from being a mere piece of scenery to a place that attracts visitors in its own right. The recent renovation of Cibeles Palace has led to the creation of a new cultural and social space. The original building, built by Palacios and Otamendi in 1904, currently houses the City Council in part of its rooms. 01 08 09 10 THE LANDMARKS OF CALLE ALCALÅ AND GRAN VÒA 01. Fine Arts Circle Alcalá, 42. (1919-1926) 02. Metrõpolis Building Alcalá, 39. (1907-1910) 03. Madrid-París Building Gran Vía, 32. (1920-1924) 04. Palacio de la Prensa Pza. del Callao, 4. (1925-1929) 05. Cines Callao Pza. del Callao, 3. (1926-1927) 06. Torre de Madrid Pza. de Espaa, 18. (1954-1960) 07. Casino de Madrid Alcalá, 15. (1903) 08. Banco Bilbao Building Alcalá, 16. (1919-1923) 09. Carriõn Building Gran Vía, 41. (1931-1933) 10. Telefõnica Building Gran Vía, 28. (1926-1930) www.esmadrid.com/en/art-madrid www.esmadrid.com 051
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    www.mataderomadrid.com MATADERO MADRID Spacesin constant evolution When you come to Madrid you'll see that in recent years the capital has experienced a similar process to that of other European cities. A process somewhere between poetry and sustainability. The city has revived some ailing spaces, breathing new cultural life into them. The standard-bearer of this trend is Matadero Madrid, a huge complex (and former slaughterhouse) located on the edge of the Madrid Río project that has placed the Arganzuela district in the avant-garde spotlight of the city. Today it houses exhibition halls such as Nave 16 (the largest in the city), the innovative Central de Diseño, the creative centre Abierto X Obras and the cinema Cineteca. This is also the location of Inter- mediae, a venue for generating new projects, and Naves del Español, one of Madrid's most stimulating theatres. Its brand new landmark space, La Casa del Lector, was successfully opened in 2012. BREAKING THE MOULD Matadero continues the groundbreaking trend started by La Casa Encendida, well known for its cultural activities, courses and workshops. Another option is the El Águila complex, a former beer factory that now hosts visual art exhibitions. MATADERO ALSO AT NIGHT   ,        .        ,     '     . 052 www.esmadrid.com
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    CÉSAR ANTONIO MOLINA Director of Casadel Lector A recommendation that never disappoints. The Matadero Madrid cultural complex. What is it about Madrid that makes it special and different? The sky and the constant light. The most amazing thing about Casa del Lector. It’s a place that teaches how to live and love culture. A great bookstore in the capital. “Antonio Machado” in Círculo de Bellas Artes. A book about Madrid or set in Madrid. Valle-Inclán’s novel, Bohemian Lights. * NEWCOMERS * BREAKING THE MOULD. Matadero Madrid (on the left) joins the list of innovative spaces along with (on this page) La Casa Encendida and Hub Madrid. »MEDIALAB PRADO A research laboratory and centre for collaborative work which aims to disseminate digital culture and bring together society, art, science and technology. Alameda, 15. »HUB MADRID A space for co-working and an ideas centre. It marks a before and after in our understanding of the way we work. Gobernador, 26. »UTOPIC_US A multipurpose and avant-garde art gallery, workspace and, even, school. Concepciõn Jerõnima, 22. »ESPACIO FUNDACIÓN TELEFÓNICA A leading expo- nent of 21st century culture: creativity, innovation and technology for social development. Fuencarral, 3. www.esmadrid.com 053
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    RENEWAL. On thispage: the Conde Duque barracks opens its doors once more. On the next page: the light and airy ABC museum (above) contrasts with the museums of History and Romanticism. CONDE DUQUE Martial renewal This self-sufficient, well-preserved military neighbourhood is like a Russian doll: the streets lead to plazas, which lead to tucked-away spots, which lead to sculptures... Now it has added two large cultural spaces to its physiognomy and soul. However, they are not entirely new: Conde Duque already existed as an exhibition centre and concert hall, but it has just undergone a fabulous refurbishment. In times gone by this was the largest building in Madrid. Even today it has imposing dimensions, with a surface area of 5,000m2 and 228 metres of façade. It also boasts an impressive theatre, exhibition and musical programme of events. A NEW NEIGHBOUR Very close to Conde Duque and complementing it is the ABC Museum. It is an unassuming building whose glass façade contrasts with its surroundings. An initiative of the newspaper ABC and supported by its substantial archives, it is focused on illustration and graphic design. Open since 2010, it already forms part of the city's cultural routes. It's the new kid on the block that can be found in all traditional neighbourhoods. 054 www.esmadrid.com
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    www.esmadrid.com/condeduque JUAN GATTI Graphic designer andvisual artist A museum or gallery. I love the Decorative Arts and Sorolla museums. Madrid's best-kept secret. I want it to stay that way: the Botanical Gardens. They are not at all well-known, and they're divine. The thing you can only find in Madrid. The party spirit. Your latest discovery. The vintage furniture shop Moratín 20. A unique photo. In one of the Matadero buildings that haven't been restored, and I love the light in the train stations. * 5 MUSEUMS * »ROMANTICISM Decorated in the style of a 19th century bourgeois palace. A delight. In Chueca. »SOROLLA The Valencian artist painted here for many years. The museum offers the best of his works and the chance to learn about his daily life. In Chamberí. »CERRALBO Works by El Greco and Zurbarán are interspersed with this family's collection from the 19th century. In Princesa. »LÁZARO GALDIANO A journey through the history of Spanish art: pieces by Goya, Velázquez and El Greco. In Salamanca. »HISTORYFormer hospice housing one of the best displays of Madrid baroque. Recently reopened. In Chueca. www.esmadrid.com
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    Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx NEW ARCHITECTURE From Castellanato the outskirts During these first years of the 21st century, Madrid has witnessed two architectural currents. It is impossible to ignore the first, a clearly avant-garde style. The four skyscrapers at the northern end of Castellana remind us of this fact. They are: Torre de Cristal, Torre PwC (which houses the five-star Eurostars Tower on its first 34 floors), Torre Espacio and Torre Repsol, the last of these designed by Sir Norman Foster. Other turn-of-the-century examples include T4 (Richard Rogers-Estudio Lamela), prodigious work of engineering and light; the CaixaForum building (Herzog&de Meuron), which still amazes with its illusion of lightness; Caja Mágica by Dominique Perrault; Jean Nouvel's work on the Reina Sofía; and Moneo's on the Prado. 056 www.esmadrid.com The other trend present here has a more discreet profile and sustainable angle. Madrid has taken on projects in which architecture and town planning go hand in hand; above all, the city keeps close to the residents and their needs. In some of Madrid's neighbourhoods you can find works that incorporate green technology and a sense of coexistence, as in the case of the Eco-Boulevard in Vallecas and the Carabanchel urban expansion, which contains buildings such as the Manzana Perforada by ACM Arquitectos and Casa de Bambú by Alejandro Zaera. Times change, people change and cities change.
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    www.esmadrid.com/madridrio 21ST-CENTURY FORMS. On theprevious page: the four towers erected at the end of Paseo de la Castellana. On this page: the bridge designed by Perrault as part of the Madrid Río project. THE BRIDGES OF MADRID RÍO Have you crossed your favourite yet? Madrid Río has 32 bridges and walkways linking the two banks of the Manzanares River. If you weren't aware of its recent past, you'd never guess that beneath them lies an underground motorway. This wide-ranging project directed by Ginés Garrido has maintained and restored some classic bridges such as those of Toledo, Segovia, Del Rey and Reina Victoria. Nine new bridges have also been added. The most frequently photographed is the Puente Monumental de la Arganzuela by Dominique Perrault, an icon of the new Madrid. The most unusual bridge is Puente de Andorra, or the y-shaped walkway, while the warmest designs are those of the twin Invernadero and Matadero bridges, decorated by Daniel Canogar. INVERNADERO          ,    -           . www.esmadrid.com 057
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    WHAT’S ON ART &CULTURE >>>>>> KEEP UP WITH IT ALL ON www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid IT WOULD BE IMPOSSIBLE TO COVER ALL THE CULTURAL EVENTS ON OFFER IN MADRID BUT DON'T DESPAIR: WE CAN SUM UP THE HIGHLIGHTS OF 2013 FOR YOU. THREE TIPS SOROLLA Following exhibitions in Italy and Granada, the Sorolla Museum is now hosting this show paying tribute to the painter’s best-loved landscapes. From 30 October 2012 to 5 May 2013. VAN DYCK Casa de Alba its artistic legacy Paintings by Goya, Titan and Rubens are just a few of the treasures from the Casa de Alba private collection, now on show in the Centro Centro at Palacio de Cibeles. More than 150 artworks from the legacy of Spain’s most influential aristocratic family. >WHEN: From 30 November 2012 to 31 March 2013. >DID YOU KNOW?: The masterpiece 'The Virgin of the Pomegranate' is being exhibited for the very first time. The Prado Museum is showing the precocious painter’s early creative work. From 20 November 2012 to 3 March 2013. CRISTINA IGLESIAS The Reina Sofía is hosting the biggest retrospective exhibition ever held on this Spanish artist. From 5 February to 13 May 2013. Book Fair A large-scale event at El Retiro Park Every spring Madrid hosts this major event on the literary calendar, where leading authors and publishers come together to present their latest releases and interact with their readers. >WHEN: May-June. Paseo de Coches in El Retiro Park. >A UNIQUE EVENT: With more than 300 stalls, this is the biggest bookshop you'll find in Spain. 058 Beyond ARCOMadrid A window onto the avant-garde Three other excellent fairs will be held in parallel: Art Madrid, Madrid Dearte and JustMad. All complement a programme that offers curated activities providing a space for emerging galleries and markets. >WHEN: From 13 to 17 February 2013 Feria de Madrid. >KEEP IN MIND: Transport between fairs is generally well organised. Make sure you check out the options and timetables. www.esmadrid.com
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    Architecture Week A paradeof giants The experts reveal the secrets of Madrid's most emblematic buildings. Get all the details by visiting www.esmadrid.com/semanaarquitectura. >WHEN: October. Various locations. >WHAT TO EXPECT: It's a great chance to discover hidden gems. Dalí The Surrealist genius The Reina Sofía National Museum is hosting a major exhibition together with the Pompidou Centre in Paris, in collaboration with the Gala-Salvador Dalí Foundation in Figueres and the Salvador Dalí Museum in St. Petersburg (Florida). The show focuses on the Surrealist period of this creative genius, with particular emphasis on the paranoiac-critical method he developed as a mechanism for transforming and subverting reality. >WHEN: From 24 April to 2 September 2013. More Dalí to come at the end of the year: he also features in the Surrealism and Dream exhibition at the Thyssen Museum. >TO BEAR IN MIND: AND MUCH MORE MADRIDFOTO The outlook is good for the fifth year of this event dedicated to collecting contemporary images. From 23 to 26 May 2013. Feria de Madrid. LA CIUDAD EN VI³ETAS CentroCentro is the place to catch a cycle of exhibitions on unpublished comic strips on Madrid. From 27 September 2012 to 31 July 2013. Pisarro A unique Impressionist A pivotal figure who laid the foundations for the Impressionist movement, but who was eclipsed by his peers. The Thyssen Museum is holding the first monographic exhibition of his work in Spain. >WHEN: From 4 June to 15 September 2013. >WHY YOU SHOULD SEE IT: Because you will really appreciate his mastery of landscape in these 70 works of art. MARTÒN RICO The Prado Museum presents work by this pioneering artist in the introduction of realist landscape painting in Spain. From 30 October 2012 to 10 February 2013. CHANGING OF THE GUARD Enjoy one of the most emblematic sights by visiting the Royal Palace for the Solemn Changing of the Guard. The first Wednesday of every month at 12 noon, except in summer. www.esmadrid.com 059
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    Madrid's taxi driversare the most intelligent sociologists ELENA OCHOA FOSTER EDITOR AND GALLERY OWNER The wife of architect Norman Foster is the founder of the Ivorypress art publishers and exhibition space, a meeting point for the newest vanguard movements. @IvoryPress Define Madrid in just one image. The Gran Vía leading down towards Plaza de Cibeles. Where in Madrid could you spend hours reading? At home. And if my house is full of kids playing in the hallways, then Plaza de Santa Bárbara nearby. Where do you like to hang out? At the bar Cock (Reina, 16) with my close friends, until as late as possible. What's the greatest luxury you allow yourself in Madrid? And the best value treat? Wandering around Hapsburg Madrid. And the best value treat: going to the cinema with my children, enjoying a packet of pipas and a large popcorn. What hotel do you usually recommend? The Santo Mauro (Zurbano, 36). And what about restaurants? For pizza, Bar Tomate (Fernando El Santo, 26); if you fancy hake, then Goizeko Kabi (Comandante Zorita, 37); for game, Horcher (Alfonso XII, 6); for a good potato tortilla, La Ancha (Príncipe de Vergara, 204); and for eating and chatting with friends, La Tasquita de Enfrente (Ballesta, 6). With my kids I prefer to go to Pan de Lujo (Jorge Juan, 20). And I'm leaving a lot of places out. What is the thing you miss most about Madrid when you're abroad? The smell, the light, the blue sky, and the taxi drivers: they're the most intelligent sociologists, a barometer of Spain. Their irony is witty, authentic and inimitable. What can a visitor to Ivorypress expect to find? A different way of understanding books and contemporary art. That's how we've been described by the Financial Times and the Daily Telegraph, as well as by magazines like Monocle and Corriere del Arte. My team and I have managed to position Ivorypress and Madrid as a steady, indisputable landmark in contemporary art and publishing. It's a fact and a reality. But there’s still a long way to go. Who is the artist from Madrid that you would most like to publish a book with? The artist I admire most is from Madrid: Isidoro Valcárcel Medina. He is the future. We have developed a meticulous artist's book with him which we will launch at this year's edition of Arco. The best book written about Madrid is... The one I'm writing, which I might not ever publish. I’m writing about public and private Madrid, the Madrid I love and the one I hate, the one that I feel when I live there for periods of time, and the timeless, ephemeral Madrid; its people, whom I love, and its skies and corners. www.esmadrid.com 061
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    FOOD&DRINK 64-78 6465 TAPAS 6667 MADRID THE ESSENCE 6869 COSMOPOLITAN FLAVOURS 7071 HEALTHY AND GOURMET 7273 DISTRICT BY DISTRICT 7475 SWEETS AND DESSERTS 76 DRINKING IN STYLE 77 WHAT'S ON 78 INTERVIEW Ramón Freixa
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    TAPAS The pleasure willbe all yours TASTY BITES. A selection of tapas lined up on a bar in San Miguel market. On the right, eating raciones in La Latina district. MADRID IS ONE OF THE WORLD'S FOOD CAPITALS. HERE YOU CAN ENJOY DISHES FROM ACROSS THE GLOBE AS WELL AS TRADITIONAL AND CONTEMPORARY SPANISH CUI SINE AT ANY TIME OF DAY. TA PAS, THOUGH, ARE A MUST. 064 www.esmadrid.com LET YOURSELF GO      :     ,      ,        . BEER AND WINE A traditional ceremony A good tapa needs to be washed down with a good drink, which is why the beer pump is the heart of any bar. Traditional taverns always echo to the sound of glasses of beer being filled and passed over the counter. In Madrid pale beer is the favourite choice, served in a small glass and very cold, especially in summer. Some people prefer a clara, beer mixed with soda water or lemonade. Vermouth, also available on tap, is still a favourite aperitif.
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    READY FOR ABITE? Doing the rounds in La Latina Eating raciones (portions) is an old Spanish tradition that has become popular in many countries, and there’s nowhere quite like Madrid for enjoying tapas. They have become part of our social and cultural life, with cheese, cold meats, rice and stews in individual portions making up the perfect informal way of eating your fill. This art is at its finest in the Literary and Hapsburg quarters and, above all, in La Latina, where you can go from bar to bar, eating a little of everything you fancy. Products with designation of origin and other delicacies are now being given the creative cuisine treatment. Leading chefs have turned their attention to tapas, reinventing them with creative designs, attractive textures and a mix of delicious international flavours. However, However, the tortilla, or potato omelette, is still the best known tapa of all. In portions, as canapés or cut into cubes, it is the quintessential Madrid tapa. * TOP TAPAS * »CROQUETTES Ham, chicken, cod WINE BY THE GLASS Depending on the bar and the time of day, wine has become a popular alternative to beer. The traditional flat-bottomed chatos are now being replaced by stemmed wine glasses. You can order wine by the glass so there’s no need to sit down at a dinner table and order a whole bottle. Fine wines from Spain and the rest of the world can be enjoyed in many classic wine bars and modern gastro-bars, where you can devise your own à la carte tasting menu of small dishes. Old favourites like olives, white anchovies in vinegar and Iberian ham are to be found alongside new versions of traditional recipes featuring ingredients from other cultures. Travel through food! and many others. With their varied fillings, croquettes are ideal for a tasty snack. »'BOCADILLOS' Baguettes filled with old favourites are still very popular: fried squid, ham and tomato, pork tenderloin with cheese, peppers, etc. »'TORTILLAS' The potato omelette reigns supreme but there are many alternatives. In Spain they are eaten at any time of day. »PATATAS BRAVAS Potatoes cut into chunks, fried and served with a spicy tomato sauce. www.esmadrid.com 065
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    OMAR ALLIBHOY @tapasrevolution Owner ofhugely succcessful Tapas Revolution in London Where do they serve your favourite cocido? In Taberna la Daniela. Any favourite tapa? The tortilla pinchos at Juana la Loca (Pza. Puerta de Moros, 4) and croquettes from the stall in San Miguel market. A relaxed meal. Roast lamb at La Tahona (Espíritu Santo, 12). A drink to round the evening off? The rooftop terrace at Hotel Urban (Carrera de San Jerõnimo, 34). THE HOME OF 'COCIDO'. From left to right, three restaurants you'll want to go back to: La Bola, Cruz Blanca beer bar in Vallecas (winner of the award for the best cocido in Madrid) and Malacatín. 066 www.esmadrid.com A COMPLETE 'COCIDO' The capital's staple dishes Cocido is a meal in itself. The first course consists of soup, and is followed by a stew made with cabbage, carrots and potatoes, chorizo, bacon, chicken and pork, plus chickpeas, a crucial ingredient. There are many variations but the original, authentic version is from Madrid. The dish epitomises the city's open character. This generous stew, which admits all sorts of ingredients, should be prepared in a pot and served in an earthenware dish. It dates back to the sixteenth century, when it was eaten by nobility and servants
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    alike. La Bola,La Daniela and Los Galayos are among the best known restaurants serving this traditional dish. To work up an appetite or help you to digest your meal, go for a long walk through the city centre. LA LATINA La Latina district is the focal point for tourists and locals in search of good traditional cooking. MOUTHWATERING FOOD There are many other traditional dishes that are firmly rooted in Madrileños’ normal diets. They can also be found in restaurants across the city, with such gastronomic delights as roast lamb at Casa Botín, tripe at the Malacatín, fried eggs at Casa Lucio and calamari sandwich at El Brillante all forming part of the local culinary heritage. In Madrid you can also find fine food from the rest of Spain in the city's many excellent regional restaurants: salmorejo from Andalusia, pisto from La Mancha, fish and shellfish from the north of Spain and rice dishes from the Mediterranean. www.esmadrid.com 067
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    TREAT YOURSELF. Itdoesn't matter if you choose the elegance of Terraza del Casino, Chinese food at Tsé Yang or an Indian meal at Mumbai. Madrid will not disappoint you. SETTING THE SCENE     , '      ,        . 3,100 RESTAURANTS In different parts of the city. Food is an art, combining leisure, culture and business. OPENED IN 1725 Casa Botín, near Plaza Mayor, is the oldest restaurant in the world. 10 TRADITIONAL RESTAURANTS You'll find them on Paseo de la Gastronomía in Casa de Campo. 068 www.esmadrid.com MICHELIN STARS Exquisite taste Michelin, the restaurant guide par excellence, has never been particularly generous as far as Spain's or Madrid's gastronomy is concerned. But the stars it has awarded are certainly well deserved. Madrid has six restaurants holding two Michelin stars: La Terraza del Casino, home of Paco Roncero's imaginative cuisine; Santceloni, where Óscar Velasco follows in the footsteps of Santi Santamaría; Ramón Freixa Madrid and Sergi Arola Gastro, named aſter their famous chefs, both of whom trained in Catalonia; plus DiverXo and Club Allard. Their young yet mature chefs are David Muñoz and Diego Guerrero respectively, who skilfully combine widely varying culinary trends. The restaurants with one Michelin star are the elegant Zalacaín, where some of the country's most important business deals have been struck, and Kabuki and Kabuki Wellington, a balanced fusion of Japanese and Spanish cooking made possible by Ricardo Sanz's technical precision. There are sure to be many more in the future, as Madrid's cuisine is definitely going from strength to strength.
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    www.esmadrid.com/en/restaurants-madrid DAVID MUÑOZ @DiverXO Chef at DiverXorestaurant A favourite spot. Bravo Murillo, cultural fusion in a street with a fine old tradition. A secret treat. The Hammam Al Andalus Madrid baths (Atocha, 14). Your favourite Madrid dish? Cocido; the best is the one you can order from Antojo (Ferraz, 36). An area for tapas. Huertas. Your favourite place to eat or drink? Arzábal (Doctor Castelo, 2). Places you would recommend. Sudestada (Modesto Lafuente, 64) and O’Pazo (Reina Mercedes, 20). Your latest discovery. La Gastrocroquetería (Segovia, 17). PHOTOS PENDING OK os alr Ugiam, commy nim dui te conulput nibh ex er se feugiat. Ut autatis molortinim veliquat dolore conulla aut exeraesse euisi. TRY THIS A trip round the world in Lavapiés In recent years a fine selection of dishes from all over the globe have started cropping up on Madrid menus. This culinary journey round the world becomes a never-ending experience because of the enormous range of attractive and delicious food on offer. Spicy dishes from Mexico, grilled meat from Argentina, ceviche from Peru, plus arepas from Venezuela and Colombia are now part of everyday life in the city. The same applies to Japanese, Chinese, Thai and Indonesian food, which is increasingly available in all parts of the city. You can enjoy an authentic Indian tandoori in Lavapiés and choose the most exquisite sushi in Paseo de la Castellana, whether you're looking for an everyday meal or a special treat. Pasta prepared in genuine Neapolitan ovens, Scandinavian smoked fish, or hearty dishes from Russia - take your pick! www.esmadrid.com 069
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    EATING IN THEMARKET San Miguel and San Antón Madrid has taken snacks back to their roots, to the markets selling the top quality products used to make them, and pushed informal tapas to new heights. First in San Miguel market, next to Plaza Mayor, and now in San Antón, in Chueca, open multi-purpose spaces have been set up where you can do the week's shopping or join your friends for a bite to eat and a beer or a glass of wine. The unique buildings have been painstakingly refurbished, making them new city landmarks appreciated by residents and visitors alike. In both markets you can enjoy oysters in cava or grilled foie gras. Bite-sized portions of croquettes, mushrooms, Iberian cold meats ALEJANDRA ANSÓN @elite_gourmet Director of Elite Gourmet For a relaxed meal. La Tasquita de Enfrente (Ballesta, 6) or Ramõn Freixa (Claudio Coello, 67), depending on the day. A secret treat. White truffle at Don Giovanni (Reina Cristina, 23). A traditional dish. Tortilla at Támara (Av. América, 33). Any favourite tapa? Nino's little dishes at La Gabinoteca (Fernández de la Hoz, 53). The best view. From the La Terraza del Casino restaurant (Alcalá, 15). A hotel where you have a meal too? The Hotel Urban, thanks to Joaquín Felipe (Carrera de San Jerõnimo, 34). 070 www.esmadrid.com
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    DELICIOUS MARKETS. On thispage the counter at one of the bars in San Miguel market. On the next page, two places to eat in San Antón market. www.esmadrid.com/cultura and cheese are available until the small hours, as are home-made ice cream, fresh fruit juice and designer cakes. QUICK SERVICE WITH NO SET TIMES When you visit Madrid you'll find you can eat very well without breaking the bank. Everyone is familiar with fast food but now many leading chefs are contributing ingenious ideas for a more balanced version. There is a demand for carefully prepared, healthy food using quality ingredients. There has been a city-wide boom in gourmet hamburgers, and the trend also applies to tacos, pizzas, hot dogs, filled baguettes and sandwiches. Fast food has been reinvented to satisfy the most demanding diner. JOSÉ CARLOS CAPEL @madridfusion Director of Madrid Fusión and food critic What does Madrid Fusiõn mean for the city? It has raised its profile around the world. What do they do best in Madrid? Pommes soufflés. The best cocido? Go to Charolés, in El Escorial (Floridablanca, 24). A place you'd recommend to friends visiting Madrid. The stage area in Teatriz restaurant (Hermosilla, 15). Your favourite tapa? The ham croquettes at El Quinto Vino (Hernani, 48). The most tempting food in Madrid. Fusion cuisine. Madrid and London are European pioneers in this field. www.esmadrid.com 071
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    DISTRICTS IN MADRID TOWHET YOUR APPETITE This is the start of your culinary journey through the main areas in the city centre, a route full of interesting flavours. THE LITERARY QUARTER The area round Plaza de Santa Ana and Calle de Huertas combines convenience and a Bohemian atmosphere. Its traditional taverns and modern gastrobars are ideal for a snack when shopping or visiting museums and theatres. LA LATINA A walk round the district is compulsory on Sundays but its bars are well worth visiting during the week, when they are less crowded. Enjoy regional dishes and generous snacks as you explore Calle Cava Baja. The district's little squares, with their lively open-air bars, are hard to resist on summer evenings. LAVAPIÉS The area's traditional past blends with its new international character. Aromas from all parts of the world waſt through its streets, bringing Oriental, Indian and North African cuisine to Madrid. Calle del Ave María is a good example, while the terraces in Argumosa are known as the district's "sea-front". SALAMANCA The district offers gourmet shops, tasting menus and outstanding wine bars. The area round Calle Serrano is home to vari- 072 www.esmadrid.com ous award-winning restaurants offering food to satisfy the most discerning palate. And there is no shortage of elegant bars where you can eat tapas or have tea while you take a breather from shopping. SALESAS The bars serving beer in Plaza de Santa Bárbara are the epicentre of a district featuring many aſter work bars and delicatessens. Old and well-established cafés such as El Espejo and Gijón, in Paseo de Recoletos, give the area a particularly distinguished air. MALASAÑA This lively young district has also kept up with the fascinating change in people's eating habits. With a wide range of takeaway food, retro-style cafés, vegetarian restaurants and cosy tea-rooms, it is also home to legendary tapas bars and restaurants serving international cuisine. CHUECA The San Antón market, with its splendid flat roof, has extended the impressive range of options available. Old established restaurants rub shoulders with brand new businesses run by young chefs. In the Vázquez de Mella area you'll find classic cocktails and exotic menus.
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    INTERNATIONAL. Above, from leftto right, two Italian restaurants: La Mucca and La Tavernetta. Below, Happy Day bakery. * SET MENUS * Good, tasty and cheap. In Madrid you can eat very well on a tight budget. Most restaurants offer a set lunch, a filling meal consisting of two main courses, a dessert, bread and a drink at prices ranging from €10 to €20. The casas de comida are a particularly good option, serving both traditional and more modern fare, prepared with fresh market produce and served in a friendly, informal atmosphere that's popular with students, workers and travellers. When you come to Madrid, try to visit different districts so you can see for yourself how the huge variety of food on offer reflects their own, very individual characters. www.esmadrid.com 073
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    FOR THOSE WITHA SWEET TOOTH... Breakfast and tea As you walk round Madrid you'll be bombarded by many tempting aromas. The city has a strong tradition of baking that dates back for centuries. Traditional pastry specialities include pestiños, buñuelos de viento, huesos del Santo, rosquillas de San Isidro, torrijas (eaten at Easter), the roscón de Reyes (a ring-shaped cake eaten at Christmas), while recent additions include la corona de la Almudena, eaten during the festivities to honour the city's patron saint. Churros with hot chocolate are a very wellestablished old favourite, eaten mid-aſternoon to ward off the cold weather or early in the morning aſter a night on the town. They are also an integral part of many popular festivities. The thick drinking chocolate is much loved by children and adults alike, who delight in dunking their fried batter porras and lazos. SWEETLY SIDE BY SIDE. Madrid is home to traditional bakeries such as La Santiaguesa and new ventures like Buenas y Dulces, selling doughnuts and tea biscuits. 074 www.esmadrid.com
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    www.esmadrid.com/en/restaurants-madrid * DESSERTS * »COFFEEThe smell of coffee fills bars and cafés from early morning until mid-afternoon. White at breakfast time and with just a drop of milk after lunch. »CUPCAKES Traditional fairy cakes are now decorated with ontrend fancy ingredients, like they do in English-speaking countries. »ICE CREAM Home-made, creamy and nutritious, this old favourite now features unusual new varieties. Though mostly eaten in summer, it's also popular in winter. »'ROSCÓN' Originally meant to be eaten at Epiphany, there are bakeries where this cake has been transformed into a work of art. CHOCOLATES AND SWEETS                . NEW TRENDS Madrid has a number of organic bakeries selling freshly-made croissants, which have made a big change to the early morning coffee ritual. The growing popularity of brunch in hotels and designer bars has made it a regular habit for many people at weekends. An increasing number of the city's residents are adopting the custom of having a British-style high tea in the aſternoon, eating cupcakes with multi-coloured toppings and pancakes with syrup and cream. www.esmadrid.com 075
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    LOVINGLY MIXED DRINKS. BarmanCarlos Moreno, from Charly's Bar. THE AFTER WORK BOOM Cocktails in the centre In Madrid there's no need to wait for the weekend to enjoy the city's night life. It's become increasingly common for the Friday or Saturday night dinner plus drink routine to happen any evening from Monday to Thursday. There has been a remarkable increase in the number of establishments of all kinds catering for the aſter-work market. Customers can take advantage of attractive special deals on drinks and snacks to unwind aſter the day's work and chat to friends. Do you prefer a quiet cocktail bar or somewhere livelier? Does it depend on the day you've had? If you like cocktails, Gran Vía (the legendary Museo Chicote, for example) and the area behind it (Calle de la Reina) are a must. Fancy a gin & tonic? They serve fantastic mixed drinks in the Triball area. The list is never-ending and you'll be spoilt for choice all the way from Calle Almirante to Calle de Juan Bravo. 076 www.esmadrid.com MIKEL ITURRIAGA @mikeliturriaga Author of the blog El Comidista A relaxed meal. At Lúa (Zurbano, 85), haute cuisine with no fuss. A restaurant to impress someone. Nikkei 225: high class Japanese-Peruvian fusion (Castellana, 15). Favourite tapas? Rabas and salmorejo at El Pez Gordo (Pez, 6). A place to go to with friends. Home Burger (Espíritu Santo, 12). A drink to round the evening off? In Toni 2 (Almirante, 9). It's a parallel world.
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    WHAT’S ON FOOD &DRINK >>>>>> FOR FULL DETAILS GO TO www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid THE CALENDAR IS BRIMMING WITH DELICIOUS GASTRO NOMIC EVENTS HIGHLIGHTING THE FINEST FOOD FROM MADRID AND FROM ACROSS THE GLOBE. AND... MADRID FUSIØN This is the eleventh anniversary of the international event that turns Madrid into the gastronomy capital of the world, with the presence of internationally acclaimed chefs. In Pavilion 14.1 at IFEMA. From 21 to 23 January. SALØN GOURMET A meeting point for manufacturers and consumers of highend food products. A showcase event for top quality food and drink, attracting buyers from all over the world. Feria de Madrid. From 8 to 11 April. SOCIAL MENU Gastrofestival A festival of the senses Coinciding with Madrid Fusión, the city also hosts Gastrofestival, a culinary and cultural event with a packed programme of activities inviting everyone to enjoy Madrid's many flavours. Leading chefs prepare special menus at attractive prices for the popular Dinners with the Stars and fashion designers present their own special creations in Gastrofashion. The event, now in its third year, also includes tastings and courses, and is enthusiastically supported by restaurants, museums, art galleries, markets and delicatessens. >WHEN: From 19 January to 3 February 2013. is a unique opportunity to enjoy fine food at exceptionally low prices. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: This Restaurants supporting Restaurant Week, an initiative that first started in New York in 1992, will be serving menus at especially attractive prices. Not only are they making restaurants more accessible, they are also supporting charitable causes. March and November. www.esmadrid.com 077
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    "Madrid is full oftemptations" RAMÓN FREIXA COOK @RamonFreixa He is one of the leading lights of the Catalonian school living in Madrid. The restaurant bearing his name has earned itself two Michelin stars in record time. Lxs cursivxs nx cxgxn lxs xcxntxs What does Madrid taste of? Diversity. What's been the greatest improvement in the last few years? The fresh vitality brought in by the new set of chefs. What about the new markets? A genuine resurgence. I always say that San Miguel is ideal for tapas, and in San Antón they've succeeded in combining tapas and shopping. What's your favourite authentic Madrid dish? Tripe and 'broken' fried eggs. For dessert? Desserts are getting better all the time. You can see it happening in bakeries like Oriol Balaguer (José Ortega y Gasset, 44) and Pomme Sucre (Barquillo, 49). 078 www.esmadrid.com Your latest discovery? The Don Lay Chinese restaurant (Paseo de Extremadura, 30). Which places do you recommend to your friends? A walk in El Retiro Park and, for shopping, the Malasaña and Salamanca districts. Where do you go to buy a giſt? Isolée is a good choice, with lots to choose from (Infantas, 19). For flowers, I go to Floreale (Luis Vives, 5). The best place to round off an evening with a drink? I'd name three: Dry Martini by Javier de las Muelas (Hermosilla, 2), O'Clock (Juan Bravo, 25) and Le Cabrera (Bárbara de Braganza, 2). The most tempting thing in Madrid? Madrid is full of temptations.
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    SHOPPING 80-97 WHATEVER YOUR STYLE,WE HAVE SOMETHING TO SUIT ALL TASTES. 8081 SERRANO 8283 GRAN VÍA / SOL 8485 RASTRO FLEA MARKET 8687 SALESAS, TRIBALL AND THE LITERARY QUARTER 8889 HITTING THE MARKETS 9091 BACK TO MADRID'S ROOTS 92 OUTLET CHIC 93 SHOPPING MAP 9495 WHAT'S ON 9697 INTERVIEW Maribel Verdú
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    ARTE Y CULTURA SHOPPING Thebest of each neighbourhood EACH AREA HAS ITS OWN PERSONALITY. THE MOST CHIC BRANDS ARE IN SALAMANCA; THE LATEST TRENDS, IN SALESAS; TRADITIONAL BOUTIQUES, ON GRAN VÍA... WHAT'S MORE, MADRID IS OPEN 365 DAYS A YEAR. SERRANO Come to the street of temptations Madrid's most fashion-conscious zone is found in Calle Serrano and the surrounding streets. A long, formal and traditional street, its pavements, which have been replaced and widened for the comfort of pedestrians, are flanked by the largest collection of leading fashion brands. From the 080 www.esmadrid.com majestic presence of Ortega y Gasset to the chic elegance of Jorge Juan and its alleyways. A stroll through the Salamanca neighbourhood, shopping bags in hand, is a traditional pastime for residents of Madrid and a temptation for visitors dazzled by the vast array of objects of desire on display.
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    STREETS WITH RENOWN              . , ,         . SALAMANCA DISTRICT 01. Museum of Public Art 02. Carlos de Amberes Foundation 03. La Paz Market 04. Loewe 05. El Jardín de Serrano 06. Plaza de Colõn 07. Callejõn de Jorge Juan 08. Colõn Tourist Center 09. Teatro Fernán Gõmez 10. National Library 11. Archaeological Museum Famous jewellers, international boutiques, great designer brands and interior decoration stores, traditional artisanal shops and various delicatessens offer numerous opportunities to find the perfect giſt. Spanish fashion deserves special attention, having taken Calle Serrano and the surrounding area by storm during recent decades with a lively presence that has ensured the neighbourhood is a permanent point of interest. The retail and leisure options here are constantly updated, and there are numerous first-class cafés, outdoor bars and restaurants, all of which can now also be enjoyed on Sundays. www.esmadrid.com 081
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    SHOPPING www.esmadrid.com/en/shopping-madrid GRAN VÍA /SOL The main commercial arteries of Madrid From Monday to Sunday, life in central Madrid's neighbourhoods is a constant bustle of people and action. And all roads lead to the century-old Gran Vía. It has junctions leading onto many other streets, a large number of which are pedestrianized, allowing millions of residents and visitors to discover the brightest, most fascinating side of the city. While its first section is more traditional, lined with emblematic boutiques, cocktail bars and grand hotels, Gran Vía is transformed at the Red de San Luis junction. This is due to the modern influence of Calle de Fuencarral. Here, the flagship stores of firstrate international brands occupy immense premises in historic buildings in a show WINDOW-SHOPPING ROUTE. Two examples of the varied retail options Madrid has to offer. This page: The classic store Grassy Jewellers. Opposite: Fuencarral's modern look. 082 www.esmadrid.com of lights and colours that attracts all passers-by. This spectacle continues from Plaza del Callao where it meets Calle Preciados. Pioneering in its restrictions on traffic circulation, it is still the busiest street in Spain. At the other end of the district, the Puerta del Sol branches off into Mayor and Arenal streets, renewed in recent years by the opening of establishments that blend in perfectly with neighbourhood classics. There is so much to choose from that we need to retrace our steps to make sure we don't miss anything. This district is truly the beating heart of Madrid.
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    CENTRAL MADRID 01. Pza.Sta. Bárbara 02. Café Comercial 03. Barcelõ Market 04. Pza. del Dos de Mayo 05. Pza. de San Ildefonso 06. Fuencarral Market 07. Triball 08. San Antõn Market 09. Pza. del Callao 10. Pza. del Carmen 11. Kilometre Zero 12. Pza. Mayor 13. Õpera www.esmadrid.com 083
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    SHOPPING THE FLEA MARKET Notjust on Sundays Visiting the Rastro flea market on Sundays and public holidays is a favourite activity among Madrid’s locals. The countless stalls of this street market, which spread down the hill from Plaza de Cascorro along Ribera de Curtidores, sell everything and anything imaginable: you just have to know how to find what you're looking for! The whole La Latina neighbourhood is immersed in a bustle of trade from first thing in the morning. Fray Ceferino González and San Cayetano streets possess their own interior world. The same can be said of Plaza del General Vara del Rey, a popular destination for collectors of antique journals, paintings, picture cards and prints which they buy, sell and exchange with enthusiasm. OPPORTUNITIES ABOUND These winding streets contain the most unusual items among its second-hand books, retro furniture and all manner of kitsch relics. Your best bet is to be willing to be surprised and share your opinions. The human tidal wave might take us to corners of the market we might never have explored of our own volition. Not many people know that apart from the intense activity in the flea market on Sundays, the area is also a vibrant place to be on weekdays. Newly established antique shops, and clothes and second-hand shops receive daily visits from those willing to diligently rummage through stock at a slower pace. GUILLERMO GARCÍA DE LA HOZ Designer and interior decorator Your favourite corner. La Casa de Granada (Doctor Cortezo, 17), to see the sunset. An essential shop. El Anticuario de Belén (Belén, 11), Vintage 4P (Bastero, 4), Youtopía (Garcilaso, 5) and any of the flea market stalls. The best-decorated premises. Hub Madrid (Gobernador, 26). For a guilty treat. Café Oita (Hortaleza, 31): irresistible. Where to end an evening. The Mercado de la Reina restaurant (Gran Vía, 12). The latest trend. Pad Thai (Paseo del Prado, 40). I love the mix of stained glass windows depicting the Virgin alongside Buddha. 084 www.esmadrid.com
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    THE PERFECT PLAN         ,                 ,       . SEVEN DAYS. Life in the area changes radically depending on the day. During the week you can explore new antique shops. On Sundays, check out the most surprising stalls. 3,500 STALLS Are erected every Sunday at the flea market, from 9 am to 3 pm. 70,000 PEOPLE pass through the Sol station every day to make use of the three metro lines and two local train lines. SINCE 1578 The oldest shop in Madrid: the Reina Madre chemist's on Calle Mayor. www.esmadrid.com 085
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    SHOPPING SHOPPING WALKING ROUTE                   ,   , ,  ,     . SALESAS, TRIBALL AND THE LITERARY QUARTER For the latest in design SALESAS ROUTE If you want to shop for the most up-todate trends, then this is the neighbourhood you should be getting lost in. In Argensola, Fernando VI and Regueros streets you can find multibrand stores stocking all the latest fashion. This area simply lives and breathes fashion wherever you go, since it's where all the main showrooms and communications offices are located. Calle de Barquillo is losing some of its old music shops in order to open new multibrand spaces which will catch the eye of all followers of fashion. DISCOVER TRIBALL In Malasaña, this project has revived trade and brought life to the neighbourhood. It's a top destination for those looking for something a bit different. Within the triangle of streets 086 www.esmadrid.com comprising Gran Vía, Calle de Fuencarral and Corredera Baja de San Pablo, a string of small shops have appeared whose predominant features are their modern design, artisanal products and welcoming interiors. DESIGN IN THE LITERARY QUARTER Take advantage of your visit to Madrid to decorate your home. Fans of interior decoration with character are well-advised to take a stroll around the Literary Quarter. Among the neighbourhood's antique bookshops and small cafés you can find vintage furniture and industrial style lighting by the best Scandinavian designers.
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    www.esmadrid.com/en/shopping-madrid MANUEL GARCÍA MADRID @garciamadrid Menswear fashion designer FOLLOWTHE TRENDS. In streets such as Conde Xiquena, Espíritu Santo and Barquillo you will find a rich array of fashion and design stores so you can keep up with the trends. Don't miss. The squares in the Hapsburg neighbourhood. My favourite is Plaza de la Basílica Pontificia de San Miguel. A hotel. The Hotel Ada Gran Vía, for fabulous lunches or an evening cocktail on its terrace. Your private garden. Just behind La Almudena Cathedral, in las Vistillas. A leisurely lunch. Malacatín (Ruda, 5). The best stew in Madrid: if you manage to eat it all you eat for free. For a homemade treat. At the El Riojano pastry shop (Mayor,10): they've got the best crunis (sweet puff pastry sandwiches). And if you need to buy a gift? I prefer the smaller shops. AMAYA RODRÍGUEZ @mayitori Creative Director Rock 'n' roll. The whole of the flea market. Looking for inspiration. In Salesas, in the shops on Calle de Orellana. For an original gift. Hakei (Ayala, 34) or Suela (Lagasca, 94). And for the boys? Cos (Claudio Coello, 53) or the shop Lomography (Echegaray, 5). For a drink with friends. At De Diego (Reina, 12) or La Turba (Conde de Xiquena, 3). Where do you escape to? In the Botanical Gardens - I love the smell of damp earth, especially in autumn. Your latest discovery. An atelier run by these really nice girls who make cool and unusual wedding dresses: La Tua Pelle (Sagasta, 26). www.esmadrid.com 087
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    SHOPPING SHOPPING HITTING THE MARKETS A mustfor gourmets Spain's cuisine is famous worldwide, so it's no surprise that Madrid is one of the best places to pick up some exquisite Spanish products. Your best bet is to head down to San Miguel and San Antón markets, where you can not only fill your shopping basket, but also enjoy all kinds of tapas, wines and desserts at its well-presented stalls: the best way to select your favourite products. If you are looking for a more traditional market full of Madrid residents doing their daily shopping then check out La Paz, Chamartín or Chamberí markets, famous for the quality of their fish, meat, vegetables and preserves. UPSTAIRS, DOWNSTAIRS. The San Antón Market in the Chueca neighbourhood not only contains stalls for daytime shopping and wine and tapas bars: upstairs there's a restaurant, cocktail bar and terrace. 088 www.esmadrid.com
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    www.esmadrid.com/en/restaurants-madrid THE FRESHEST PRODUCTSIN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD The renewed popularity of quality fruit and vegetable shops is clear at Tomad Mucha Fruta, in the Salesas neighbourhood, an establishment that has been serving local residents for almost a century. Another similar shop, Vázquez, in Calle Ayala, will catch your eye for the attractive way in which produce is displayed, worthy of any of the nearby fashion shops. At Gold Gourmet, Embassy or branches of Mallorca, among other gourmet venues you can purchase the most authentic delicatessen products. These products are a great choice when preparing a picnic to take to El Retiro Park. MADRIDCARD      . I        ,  ,        . www.madridcard.com ANA ESCOBAR @anaescobarayc Director of the agency Acción y Comunicación The best gastronomic experience. Markets offering tasting sessions, such as San Miguel and San Antõn, as well as spaces such as El Corte Ingles's Experience Gourmet. Where to end an evening. Le Cabrera (Bárbara de Braganza, 2). Where can you go to escape it all? Restaurante Lúa (Zurbano, 85). And if you need to buy a gift? I go to the wine shop LaTintorería (Marqués de Zafra, 35). They always help me pick the right bottle. Your latest discovery. Renovated El Coque (in Humanes) is spectacular. The biggest temptation. Here you can be out drinking cocktails until the early hours any day of the week. The thing that still surprises you most. The number of new places that open every day. Madrid is a city that never stops. www.esmadrid.com 089
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    SHOPPING BACK TO MADRID'SROOTS Rediscovering the value of artisanal products Madrid smells of violets - so much so, that this flower forms part of its history and has been declared the city's official aroma. You will also see that it tastes of violets too, when you try the classic sweets at La Violeta, in Plaza de Canaletas. Another typical sweet product is turrón, the traditional Spanish Christmas nougat that can also be bought during the rest of the year. Pastry shops such as Casa Mira, El Horno de San Onofre and La Mallorquina are famous for their homemade pastries. HAND MADE Fans are one accessory that continues to attract followers, a fact supported by the existence of shops like Casa de Diego, famous for STEEPED IN HISTORY. On this page, Casa de Diego; on the next page, La Violeta and Casa Mira. Three of the most iconic stores in Madrid. In the vicinity of Puerta del Sol. 090 www.esmadrid.com their hand made fans. But the traditional accessory par excellence is the Manila shawl, which not only serves as a garment but is also used to decorate street balconies during celebrations. You can find true works of art that wouldn't be out of place in a museum. The iconic store Grassy, located on the junction of Gran Vía and calle Alcalá, has a façade that can claim to be one of the most oſten depicted in images of the city, but it is also one of Madrid's most historic jeweller's, to the point where it even has its own antique watch museum.
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    www.esmadrid.com/en/shopping-madrid GONZALO FONSECA Bag designer for SteveMono A special hotel. Any with a terrace and views over the roofs of Gran Vía, Alcalá... The best walk. Hapsburg Madrid and Õpera. A leisurely lunch. El Cocinillas (San Joaquín, 3) and Le Patron (Barco, 27). For a night out with friends. Josealfredo (Silva, 22). For a homemade treat. Casa Vega (Toledo, 57). Where to go shopping. In Calle Fernando VI or Calle Barquillo or rummaging in the flea market. Madrid's biggest temptation. Going out for a beer. MADRID SHOP '       .                   . * DON' T MISS * »TRADITIONAL In La Latina there are many century-old businesses: shoe shops, basket makers, leather workshops and metalworkers. »ANTIQUE In the Literary Quarter you will find antique bookshops that look like museums. »MADE TO MEASURE The sewing workshops, fabric shops and haberdashery stores never go out of fashion. Pontejos is a classic, but there are many more in the areas around Atocha and Huertas. www.esmadrid.com 091
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    SHOPPING MIRANDA MAKAROFF @mirandamakaroff Designer, blogger, socialite A placeto be seen. The Wall (Corredera Baja de San Pablo, 47), pure posing and fashion. An exquisite treat. The pastries at Delic (Costanilla de San Andrés, 14). From your brand. Benny Room (Conde Xiquena, 17), sells sweaters that I designed with my mum (mirandaforlydia.com). The best atmosphere. In Malasaa. For shopping. The vintage shops on Calle Velarde. A real find. Viva la vida (Costanilla de San Andrés, 16), a vegetarian restaurant with a mouthwatering buffet. OUTLET CHIC Las Rozas Village Half an hour from the centre, intelligent shoppers in search of style at the best price take a trip out to Las Rozas Village. Designed to represent a collage of international architectural styles, the centre brings together an eclectic mix of more than 100 luxury outlet boutiques, with discounts of up to 60% offered all year round. Spanish brands such as Adolfo Domínguez, Becara, Castañer and Roberto Verino can be found alongside Spazio Dolce & Gabbana, Armani Outlet, Burberry, Versace Company Store, Hugo Boss and many more. The meticulous restoration of The Lobby Café and the Shopping Express service (offering free transport from the centre to the Village) make a trip to Las Rozas Village an unforgettable experience. For more information and timetables, visit: www.LasRozasVillage.com/shoppingexpress. 092 www.esmadrid.com * ALL IN ONE * »AZCA The shopping area of Nuevos Ministerios is still one of the most popular. »GOYA Everything you need within easy reach. A great variety of brands and department stores. »PRINCESA A magnificent, pleasant shopping area which isn't as crowded as some others. »PRÍNCIPE PÍO The shopping centre contained in the old Estaciõn del Norte also offers a wide range of leisure and restaurant options.
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    WHAT’S ON: SHOPPING >>>>>>GET ALL THE DETAILS ON www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid HITTING THE SHOPS IN MADRID IS A CULTURAL PHENOMENON. NO WONDER THE GROWING NUMBER OF EVENTS HAS TURNED SHOPPING INTO A CELEBRATION. Casa Decor To live more stylishly Every year the location changes for the chosen venue (casadecor.com) – decorated for this event – where renowned interior designers, architects and landscapers gather together. >WHEN: May and June. >DON'T MISS: An interesting mix of decoration, architecture and design. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week The city becomes a catwalk The capital's showcase for creations held at Feria de Madrid has become the perfect opportunity to find out what Spanish designers have to offer – from leading names to alternative talent. This big date with fashion draws the attention of professionals from the world of style, as well as followers of the latest trends. An intense week, celebrated twice a year, full of parallel events such as El Ego, dedicated to young, more cutting-edge designers. >WHEN: February and September. Feria de Madrid. This is the most important international stage for fashion design in Spain. >THE KEY: 094 www.esmadrid.com Fashion's Night Out Salamanca District Fashion's Night Out is held simultaneously in other cities, including London, Paris and New York. Every year, more shops and visitors participate in this aſter-hours event. >WHEN: September. >WHERE: Triball and Salamanca take centre stage on this special night.
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    DecorAcción Literary Quarter The antiquedealers and interior designers of Huertas open their doors and the whole neighbourhood throws itself into an event that in just two editions has become something unmissable. A true household party that is also celebrated in the open air, with a street market for the occasion and special activities. >WHEN: September/October. The whole neighbourhood gets dressed up to show its best side. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: WITH ART Día de Mercado At Casa de Campo A novel initiative that already has its dedicated followers. This is your chance to buy the finest seasonal products bearing a quality label. Once a month, the agrifood companies of Madrid present the best they have to offer at Casa de Campo. Meats, oils, wines, cheeses, sweets, fruits and vegetables, straight from the countryside to the city. >WHEN: First Saturday of every month. >WHAT YOU'LL FIND: A wide selection of quality organic products. FERIARTE Art and antiques fair featuring the best antiques, decorative arts and paintings from Spain and abroad. Feria de Madrid. November. ALMONEDA San Jorge Juan The arrival of summer Madrid takes to the streets when the weather warms up, and any occasion is worth celebrating. The shortest night of the year, Midsummer's Eve, is celebrated with particular flair along Calle Jorge Juan and its side streets, which are decked out in their finest for the occasion. The area is closed to traffic so the public can come and enjoy its elegant shops, which stay open until late. >WHEN: Midsummer's Eve, 23 June. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: So you can celebrate the arrival of summer in the best surroundings. Antique dealers, art galleries and collectors fair. With thousands of amazing and affordable pieces. Feria de Madrid. April. SPRING Lovers of old books flock to the Antiquarian and Second-Hand Book Fair. Paseo de Recoletos. May and September/ October. www.esmadrid.com 095
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    "I usually goto the Salamanca district and Calle Fuencarral" MARIBEL VERDÚ ACTRESS Since she began her career as a teenager, she hasn't stopped working with the best: Francis Ford Coppola, Guillermo del Toro, Alfonso Cuarón… Where do you like to go shopping? I usually go to the Salamanca and Chueca areas and Calle Fuencarral. Alone or with other people? On my own. Unless it's food shopping, then I'd rather go with other people to help carry everything aſter. If you came to Madrid as a tourist, what would you bring back in your suitcase? I would buy some delicious Iberian pork loin, thinly sliced and vacuum packed. Do you like shopping in markets? The new Mercado de San Antón is a real find, just like Mercado de San Miguel and Mercado de la Paz on Calle Ayala; all three are amazing and it's something a bit different to go shopping there and sample some tasty food at the same time. Your soſt spot for the theatre goes beyond being on stage. What do you recommend as an audience member? An innovative place such as Microteatro por dinero (Loreto y Chicote, 9). I also go to the Teatro Maravillas oſten, which always has a great programme (Manuela Malasaña, 6). Which parks are your favourites? Above all, El Retiro. It's a place that really makes me feel alive. I live very close by as well and stroll around it all throughout the year, because it changes a lot from one season to the next; in springtime I go with a towel, a book and headphones and spend hours there. What other green spaces do you like to wander around? The rose garden at Parque del Oeste is a wonderful spot, and the Royal Botanical Gardens is a must-visit if you come to Madrid, as it's such a peaceful place. Even though they don't charge much for entry, there aren't many people there and you can hear the quiet. Which places in Madrid make you nostalgic? I like to go down to Paseo de Rosales, walk to the cable car (if you ride it you can see a different Madrid), then go to the Temple of Debod and from there enjoy the magical Madrid sunset, which has an intensity I haven't seen anywhere else. And which galleries do you recommend? Those in and around Calle Barquillo and Calle Augusto Figueroa are very beautiful and the neighbourhood is nice. Then there are the ones along Calle Claudio Coello and Villanueva which are truly impressive. Let's finish with a bite to eat. I love a classic like Rafa, on Calle Narváez, but I'm also taken by places like Arzábal (Menéndez Pelayo, 13), La Manduca de Azagra (Sagasta, 14) and Nina (Manuela Malasaña, 10), as I'm a fan of their menus and the weekend brunch, which is simply to die for. www.esmadrid.com 097
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    FUN & GAMES 100-120 EXPERIENCESPORT DURING THE DAY AND DON'T MISS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN THE SUN GOES DOWN. SPORT: 100101 BERNABÉU AND CALDERÓN 102 IF YOU ARE INTO SPORTS 103 ALL EYES ON THE WATER 104 WHAT'S ON 105 INTERVIEW Alejandro Blanco SHOWS: 106 GRAN VÍA 107 PURE THEATRE 108 EVERY KIND OF MUSIC 109 BIG SCREENS 110 WHAT'S ON 111 INTERVIEW Carlos Rivera NIGHT: 112113 OUTDOOR CAFÉS 114115 ALL NIGHT LONG 116 THE VERY BEST FLAMENCO 117 TRADITIONAL CRAFTS 118 POPULAR 'FIESTAS' 119 DISTRICT MAPS 120 INTERVIEW Charles Ross
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    FUN & GAMES Playwith us MADRID IS LIVING A PERMANENT ROMANCE WITH SPORT, IN ALL ITS DISCIPLINES. GET READY TO CHEER ON SOME OF THE BEST FOOTBALL TEAMS IN THE WORLD. BERNABÉU AND CALDERÓN A question of colours The people of Madrid are passionate about sport of any kind, with football considered the undisputed king. This isn’t surprising given that its two big teams move genuine masses with every game. The atmosphere on the Paseo de la Castellana is electrifying whenever Real Madrid plays at home. The Santiago Bernabéu stadium bristles with excitement as the team 100 www.esmadrid.com –comprising some of the world’s best players– comes out onto the pitch. You can also watch Real Madrid as a spectator during their training sessions at the Valdebebas Sports City (check their website to find out which days they open to the public: www.realmadrid.es) or take a tour of the stadium to discover some of the Bernabéu’s hidden nooks and crannies.
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    A FOOTBALL FAN’S DREAM.Outside the Bernabéu or inside the Vicente Calderón. Right: the Atlético Madrid Museum and Real Madrid’s café. “ATLETI” AND “RAYO” Madrid’s other top team is Atlético de Madrid. Atlético’s fans (or the “red and whites” as they are popularly known) congregate at the other end of the city to watch their team play at the Vicente Calderón stadium. Considered to be among the best supporters in the world, they can watch their team, Atleti, from a privileged spot on the banks of Madrid Rio Park. A setting that combines sport, leisure, a family atmosphere, as well as a strong desire to win. Although a more humble club by comparison, Rayo Vallecano has achieved promotion to the Primera División (the Spanish Premier League). Madrid, three-times represented in the best Liga in the world. www.esmadrid.com/en/football COMING SOON              ,    -     ’  . www.esmadrid.com 101
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    www.esmadrid.com/en/parks-madrid JUANMA LÓPEZ ITURRIAGA @Palomero14 Sports commentator Aspot in the city. Plaza de Cibeles. A location encompassing both history and modernity. A bite to eat? Hermanos ¸lvarez. Affordable seafood (Ricardo San Juan, 20) The best view. From the rooftop café of the Puerta de América Hotel (Av. América, 41). The best place for sport? The classic place is Casa de Campo Park. Where to watch it? In the Sports Palace in Goya. An intimate place. For me, it is Café de Belén (Belén, 5). For the best tapas. At La Toledana (Comandante Zorita, 31). IF YOU ARE INTO SPORTS... Running or riding a bike Cycling is one of the best ways to practice sport and enjoy the city, thanks to the vast number of kilometres devoted to it. The 64 km-long green ring circles the entire city; you can test your stamina by attempting to complete it. For a gentle stroll, two excellent options are Madrid Rio and the Linear Park of the Manzanares River, which stretches southwards from the river. For those who prefer the exhilaration of the mountain bike, Casa de Campo or Monte del Pardo provide superb conditions, with slightly sandy soil, no mud and exciting circuits. If your favourite sport is running, as well as the places mentioned above, El Retiro, Oeste, Juan Carlos I and Tierno-Galván-Planetarium parks are all perfect locations. ON YOUR MARKS   ,         ,   :    (  )     (      ) 102 www.esmadrid.com TIME TO GET FIT. By bike in the Madrid Rio river park or canoeing on the lake in El Retiro.
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    *MORE SPORT* »GOLF InMadrid you can practice your swing at the Olivar de la Hinojosa course, at the National Golf Centre and at the Puerta de Hierro club, amongst others. »RUNNING On many weekends, 10 km races and half marathons are held around the city, open to anyone who wants to participate. No matter how old, fit or well-trained you are, taking part is what is important. »SKATEBOARDING A num- ber of skateboarding parks are scattered around the city to allow youngsters (or the not so young) to practice their somersaults on the skateboard. Those in Madrid Rio and in the Agustín Rodríguez Sahagún Park (Tetuán district) are the most notable. ALL EYES ON THE WATER The most refreshing sports Physiotherapists always recommend swimming as the best exercise to strengthen your back. In Madrid you can submerge yourself in a heated pool and practice your strokes at several private gyms or at any of the many municipal sports centres, which open their outdoor pools in summer. Another sport growing in popularity is canoeing. The lakes of El Retiro and Casa de Campo, and the Manzanares river, are perfect places for learning and practicing. You can row on many of the reservoirs in the Region of Madrid –Valmayor, El Atazar, San Juan and Pedrezuela–, where you can also hire a sailing boat. »SKATING You can go ice-skating in the Ice Palace all year round except in the summer. Outdoors, anywhere is suitable, although the paved walkways of Madrid Rio are a continuous coming and going of skaters everyday, who, if they wish, can continue into the adjoining Linear Park of the Manzanares River. »ROCK-CLIMBING Climbers can often be seen scaling the walls in Calle Segovia on the corner with Atenas Park. If you prefer an indoor location, the spectacular recently opened Roc 30 rock-climbing wall in Madrid Rio draws both novice and expert climbers. www.esmadrid.com 103
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    WHAT’S ON:SPORTS >>>>>> CATCH UPWITH ALL THE DETAILS AT www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid MADRID HAS AN INTENSE RELATIONSHIP WITH SPORT. FANS ARE PASSIONATE ABOUT EVERY ONE OF THE NUMEROUS EVENTS. The countdown to the BBVA League Madrid is the province most highly represented in the BBVA League with four teams in First Division (Real Madrid, Atlético, Rayo Vallecano and Getafe). The face-off between Atlético Madrid and Real Madrid supporters promises to be a cliffhanger. An endurance race that both clubs have to fit in with their European competition commitments. >WHEN: Until the middle of May. >WHY YOU SHOULDN’T MISS IT: Cristiano Ronaldo and company will fight to revalidate the title. ALSO HANDBALL Madrid is one of the host cities for the World Men's Handball Championship. Matches will be played in the Caja Mágica stadium. From 12 to 27 January 2013. LA VUELTA A ESPA³A BIKE RACE The whole city takes to the streets, giving the impression of a popular festival, to cheer on the cyclists as they speed down Paseo de la Castellana racing towards the finishing line. September. MAPOMA The Rock ‘n’ Roll Marathon of Madrid promises to be an unforgettable party. April 28, 2013. Basketball Whites against blues Come and share in the excitement of the Real Madrid basketball team matches, especially if these are played against Estudiantes, the local rival, against whom they compete in the major competitions. >WHEN: Every weekend. >FOR WHOM: There are legions of Spanish basketball fans, many of whom live in Madrid. 104 A day at the races Galloping emotions At Madrid’s racecourse there is much more to do besides watching the races and placing a bet. During the races in the summer evenings, the outdoor bar becomes a hotspot for people to hang out. >WHEN: From March. >WHAT IS THERE TO SEE? The passion of the races and live betting, and beautiful people enjoying a drink. www.esmadrid.com
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    “Madrid is muchmore than just football” ALEJANDRO BLANCO SPANISH OLYMPIC COMMITTEE CHAIRMAN Already experienced as president of the Spanish Olympic Committe, he is now heading Madrid's 2020 Olympic bid. What sports infrastructures can Madrid boast about? It has some splendid sports facilities for practicing and watching sport, and it is one of the major world capitals for event organisation. Is Madrid about more than just football? Much more. And there are thousands of clubs and thousands of competitions in other disciplines held every weekend to prove it. Which is your favourite location for practicing sport? Whenever I can I like to run outdoors in parks like Parque del Oeste, Casa de Campo or Madrid Río. Unfortunately I don’t have much time, so I usually practise sport in hotel gyms. Can you recommend a restaurant to restore our energy? That’s difficult. Madrid has something for everyone’s taste. A favourite place for complete relaxation? The sunsets at the Temple of Debod. I could see them for many years from my office when I was the chairman of the Spanish Judo Federation, and it helped me to concentrate. What has been your latest discovery in Madrid? The Madrid Rio river park, a giant space for Madrid residents to use and enjoy, with all kinds of sports facilities to add to the already extensive offer in the capital. www.esmadrid.com 105
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    A SHOW. Anactor from The Lion King. Other options: the listings for the Fernán Goméz (above) and the Canal theatres. GRAN VÍA The soundtrack to Madrid Quite some time ago Madrid’s Gran Vía became the main drag for musicals in the whole of Spain. There isn’t a production worth its salt that hasn’t previously been staged on one of its many theatres, before touring the rest of the country. Some arrive directly from Broadway, but there is also an excellent variety of home-grown productions reasserting the music and icons of several generations of Spaniards. If you attend a musical in Madrid, you’ll probably be stepping inside one of the enormous theatres on the Gran Vía. Outside they glitter with brightly coloured neon lights, but inside a panoply of equipment and skill is deployed. 106 www.esmadrid.com BEYOND GRAN VÍA The boom of the musical genre in Madrid and the huge number of theatres and venues available for staging and performing great productions has oſten lead to the shows transferring to other locations beyond the Gran Vía. Occasionally, though increasingly, the Nuevo Apolo theatre (in Plaza de Tirso de Molina) puts on this type of show. As does the Caser Calderón (in Plaza de Jacinto Benavente), and the Nuevo Teatro Alcalá (in Calle Jorge Juan, Salamanca district). Children’s musical productions are oſten performed at the Teatro Arenal (Calle Arenal, next to Puerta del Sol). www.esmadrid.com/en/musicals-madrid
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    FERNAN GÓMEZ             ,     ,    ’ . PURE THEATRE The city’s (many) stages Steeped in theatre tradition, Madrid is home to a large number of venues staging a wide and varied selection of productions: from the novelty Teatros del Canal and Matadero’s Las Naves del Español to Teatro Español on bustling Plaza Santa Ana and Teatro María Guerrero hidden away in Las Salesas district. The city’s most long-established theatres include Teatro Lara, Teatro La Latina and Teatro Infanta Isabel. If you fancy watching an old classic head to Teatro Pavón, or if you're in the mood for circus then Teatro Circo Price is your best bet. As its name suggests, Teatro de la Zarzuela specializes in zarzuelas, or Spanish operettas, whereas Teatro Real is the venue for operas. For big fans of contemporary theatre, Madrid hosts the Festival Escena Contemporánea in January and February. *ALTERNATIVE STAGES* »MICROTEATRO POR DINERO (MICROTHEATRE FOR MONEY) A unique experience has opened its doors to young playwrights in Triball, where actors and directors offer spectators short theatre performances à la carte. »KUBRICK FABRIK Opened barely a year ago in the Usera district, this is a venue for artistic creation where theatre and dance go hand in hand. »LA USINA Located in Arganzuela, this is a small theatre come academy which attempts to combine innovative efforts to offer an open door for new creators. »LA ESCALERA DE JACOB At street level it appears to be a bar, but the theatrical venue in the basement offers all kinds of performances. In Lavapiés. »AZARTE Three small theatres for plays, rehearsals and workshops distributed over 260 square metres in this theatre in Chueca. www.esmadrid.com 107
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    MXdrXd Rxxx MAGICAL EVENINGS.An enthusiastic crowd during one of the performances at Music Day. Right: entrance to the Princesa Cinema which shows films in their original language. EVERY KIND OF MUSIC Madrid sounds good When the sun sets, live music permeates the city air, as top-class concerts are held on a nearly daily basis. All the best bands include Madrid on their tours; it is definitely a required stop for their live promotion. They visit both small venues as well as large stadiums where the international stars are always welcomed with great expectation. Since 2006, Music Day has been held on 21 June, a day when Madrid celebrates with a packed weekend schedule of concerts. SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE With regards to musical styles, Madrid is a mirror of the world. The Veranos de la Villa festival is enthusiastically welcomed each year with its impressive night time cycles. Classical and choral music as well as the best soundtracks are performed at the National Auditorium. Private venues such as the Juan March Foundation or the courtyard in La Casa Encendida put on classical music concerts as well as the most avant-garde or electronic musical performances. The city is filled with the sound of jazz during the International Festival (November), and flamenco during the Suma Flamenca event. 108 www.esmadrid.com ENRIQUE CALABUIG Partner Music2day, Music Day Organiser A special place in the city. Gran Vía, a very Madrid-style meeting place where everyone feels welcome. And for chilling out? A stroll in Retiro Park. Where can you listen to the best concerts? In the Price, 'Music Hall' of Madrid. Plus, of course, on the festival stages in the Matadero. Post-concert plans. Carry on dancing till I drop in Costello, Sol or La Ruta. Latest discovery. Around Jorge Juan and Serrano. Your latest discovery. The Hotel ADA terrace, a fantastic surprise. If it only had concerts...
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    BIG SCREENS The capitalof original language cinemas Flashes, crowds, famous actors, a red carpet and thousands of onlookers in front of a brightly lit marquee. An event that might be seen any week in Plaza del Callao, the chosen location for major film premieres in Spain. If you prefer your films in their original language, make your way to Martín de los Heros –and the recently inaugurated Paseo de las Estrellas (Walk of Fame), devoted to the stars of Spanish cinema– and the neighbouring Plaza de los Cubos. Original version films are also screened at the Ideal cinema, with its fantastic glasswork façade, in Plaza de Jacinto Benavente, at the Verdi cinema in Chamberí, and at the big screens of the Cine Cité multiplex in Manoteras. Once again Madrid proves why it is the capital of Spain. CLASSICS AND RARE FILMS The Filmoteca, in the legendary Cine Doré, screens classic and rare films. During the summer months, it is impossible to avoid the big outdoor screens in La Bombilla and Tierno Galván parks, as well as those mounted for the film festivals of Documenta Madrid in May and LesGaiCineMad in November. GRAN VÒA 01. Plaza de Espaa 02. Callao 03. Triball 04. Preciados 05. Red de San Luis 06. Plaza de Vázquez de Mella 07. Fine Arts Circle 08. Puerta del Sol www.esmadrid.com 109
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    WHAT’S ON: SHOWS >>>>>> CATCHUP WITH ALL THE DETAILS AT www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid WHEN YOU COME TO VISIT MADRID YOU WILL DISCOVER A CITY BRIMMING WITH VITALITY AND A PROGRAMME FULL OF ATTRACTIVE EVENTS, WHATEVER YOUR PREFERENCES. Autumn to Spring Festival Venues The 30th Autumn to Spring Festival, which kicked off in October 2012, is set to be extended up until June 2013. This is an exceptional opportunity to enjoy contemporary theatre, dance, music and circus in a single festival set entirely in the capital. An event that changes format to adapt to new times and offer the very best performing arts programme all year round. >WHEN: From 31 October 2012 to 9 June 2013. Various venues. >YOU CAN´T MISS THIS: International artists. ALSO MOZART'S DON GIOVANNI Comic opera in two acts produced jointly by Teatro Real opera house and the Aix-enProvence Festival. With musical direction by Alejo Pérez and Dmitri Tcherniakov as stage director. From 3 to 24 April 2013. DOCUMENTA MADRID Of all the Madrid film festivals, this one, dedicated to documentaries, brings in the largest number of spectators. From 5 to 12 May, 2013. GOSPEL The Festival of Gospel and Black Spiritual music, a must-see event, generates a festive atmosphere in the run up to Christmas. At the Teatro Fernán Gõmez. December. TALENT MADRID Suma Flamenca Top figures One of the best festivals of its kind in the world could only happen in Madrid. With the Teatros del Canal as the main venue, it returns to Madrid in 2013 for its 8th edition. >WHEN: June and July. >FOR WHOM: Connoisseurs and enthusiasts. 110 Music Day Don’t stop the beat The success of the previous years has consolidated this event at which you can hear the latest music on the stages of the Matadero and Circo Price. >WHEN: June. >WHAT’S PLAYING? The latest hits by Spanish and international pop and rock groups. www.esmadrid.com A new festival that aims to provide a launch pad for original performing arts works from all disciplines. At Teatros del Canal. From 21 February to 2 March 2013.
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    “The sky overMadrid is what inspires me” CARLOS RIVERA ACTOR AND SINGER He relocated from Mexico to Madrid to star in the musical ‘The Lion King’, a big hit on Gran Vía. @_CarlosRivera How does it feel to be the king of Gran Vía? It’s pretty cool. Especially because of the lovely palace where I live with my pride, the Teatro Lope de Vega. Which places do you recommend to your friends when they come to Madrid? El Retiro park is always one of my favourite places to visit. Name some places that make you feel as if you were in Mexico. In Tepic (Pelayo, 4) and La Mordida (Belén, 13), in Chueca. Any suggestions for a great night out with friends? You’d never guess that our favourite place is a karaoke in an underground car park. Is there a place in Madrid that invites you to sing and dance? The place I mentioned in my previous answer. It’s called Master Plató! (Plaza de los Mostenses, s/n). Have you found a special place that inspires you? The view I have of the sky over Madrid from my flat, and the beautiful buildings along Gran Vía. Have you had an opportunity to go shopping? Where? Yes, around Serrano. And Fuencarral also has some great outlets. What has surprised you most about Madrid? That it is a city with such a busy social life, at all times of the day or night. www.esmadrid.com 111
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    OUTDOOR CAFÉS Openall year That Madrid stands for life on the streets is nothing new, and that one of the best ways to relax outside is to enjoy a drink and a tap in one of the city’s outdoor cafés is also no secret. Shaded by parasols in the summer, and sheltered by roofs in the winter, there are some legendary locations where to sit and enjoy the bustling atmosphere, morning, evening and night: in La Latina district or Lavapiés or in the cafés on such squares as Santa Ana, San Ildefonso, Santa Bárbara, Dos de Mayo, Vázquez de Mella and Chueca. Some have magnificent views: for example, those lining Paseo de Recoletos at the start of the Castellana, like El Espejo terrace with its pretty modernist dining AL FRESCO. Good weather ensures that you can sit out on the outdoor cafés through most of the year, including those in Plaza Santa Ana. 112 www.esmadrid.com room; at the Café Oriente facing the Royal Palace and next door to the Teatro Real; the Atenas Park and the recently opened cafés in Madrid Rio. QUIETER CAFÉS Other venues are more suitable for a relaxed chat. Head towards Calle Serrano for example, or the Fine Arts Circle, or make your way over to Plaza de Olavide and around Príncipe Pío. At the weekend and for family outings the outdoor tables and chairs in the Casa de Campo are ideal. But don’t fret too much: you’ll find one on almost every corner. A BREAK                 .           .
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    A BIRD’S EYEVIEW. From one end of the city to the other, three places to have drinks and fun: the terraces at Gau Café and at the Silken Puerta de América and Urban hotels. *FROM ABOVE* »URBAN One of the most popular outdoor bars in the late evenings and at night. Magnificent views over the Spanish parliament building in the Huertas district, in the hotel of the same name. »THE ROOF This is the Hotel Me’s roof terrace, in Plaza Santa Ana. Cosmopolitan atmosphere, chic clientele, great cocktails... »HOTEL ADA Located at the start of the Gran Vía with spectacular views over the avenue and its most emblematic buildings. It is also possible to dine here. »GAU CAFÉ In the building of the former Pious Schools, today the offices of the UNED open university, in the heart of the Lavapiés district. Curious, different, largely undiscovered. And affordable. »SKYNIGHT Located at the top of Hotel Silken Puerta de América. If this entire hotel is pure design, then the five spaces that make up this exclusive terrace are no less stylish. www.esmadrid.com 113
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    STRONG BEATS. Iboga nightclub,where the emphasis is on world music. Opposite Tartufo and the owners of Siroco. ALL NIGHT LONG from one day till the next Part of Madrid’s culture and character derives from its nightlife when the clubs not only generate ambience and fun, but also culture with their great music. In this city, you can cross the road and go from ballroom dancing in an old-time dance hall to a hang-out with the public in thrall to club culture. Remember the distinction between establishments as you organise your night out: bars and cafés open until 3 in the morning; clubs and aſterhours carry on until dawn. CHOOSE ME Begin the evening with some live music: jazz, salsa, rock... there are venues for small or large audiences. If you prefer something quieter, opt for an indoor or outdoor chill-out zone. 114 www.esmadrid.com GETTING AROUND AT NIGHT   (    )         .          . .. Cocktails are a popular choice from early evening. Later, the choice of bars widens, and it becomes a question of preferences, whether its chatting, dancing or singing. It’s up to you: mixing with the in-crowd in Las Salesas; with the young and informal around Bilbao and Alonso Martínez; frequenting the traditional bars in the Salamanca district or around the Bernabéu; joining the university crowd around Moncloa; an eclectic setting in Chueca; a lively international atmosphere around Huertas; the alternative scene in Lavapiés; or rock-punk-kitsch-indie music in the inexhaustible “movida” ambience of Malasaña.
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    BELÉN CHANES Manager ofthe Ocho y Medio club A restaurant for a leisurely lunch? Xin (Manuela Malasaa, 5). They have infinite patience with people like me and my friends. After a night out on the town? Iberia (Glorieta Ruíz Jiménez, 4) Your favourite concert venue? El Sol, where you can both see and touch (Jardines, 3) A shop to buy gifts? Two: Curiosite (Corredera Alta de San Pablo, 28) and Víctimas del Celuloide (Santiago, 8). The best place to end an evening? I work at weekends; on weekdays, Toni 2 never lets you down (Almirante, 9). www.esmadrid.com 115
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    CANTE JONDO The verybest flamenco The fine performances by flamenco artists long ago made Madrid a visitor attraction for Spanish and overseas flamenco lovers. June is the month for the acclaimed festival Suma Flamenca, featuring outstanding flamenco singers, guitarists and dancers, who will be performing their art in emblematic settings around the capital. SINGING, DANCING AND GUITARS You can find the best interpretation of flamenco dancing in its purest form, accompanied by guitars and hand-clapping, at Casa Patas (calle de los Cañizares, 10), a name associated with the best flamenco art which has established its own Flamenco Conservatory. Other famed venues include Café de Chinitas in the Opera district, El Corral de la Morería in Vistillas and Las Carboneras just behind Calle Mayor. All include a meal with the show. 116 www.esmadrid.com
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    www.esmadrid.com/en/night-madrid TRADITIONAL CRAFTS Starttapping your heels Aſter a stimulating evening at a tablao or flamenco bar, you may want to try this passionate dancing for yourself. There are several places that will teach you the basic first steps on request. One is the traditional academy Amor de Dios, situated on the top floor of the Antón Martín market building (in the district of the same name in the city centre). You don’t need an appointment or to sign up for an entire course. The only prerequisite if you want to start learning the art of clicking your heels is to bring a pair of shoes. You don’t need to go far to acquire them: Don Flamenco, just a few streets away, is dedicated exclusively to making hand-made flamenco footwear. LEONARD COHEN’S GUITAR Ten minutes away, opposite the Teatro Real, artisan guitar makers at Felipe Conde (the establishment where musician Leonard Cohen bought his flamenco guitar 40 years ago) can boast of making the best guitars since 1915. A DEEP-ROOTED TRADITION. Workshop in the Felipe Conde shop specialised in flamenco guitars. Left: performance at the Suma Flamenca festival. DID YOU KNOW?            .    ,         ,      (   ). ANTONIO NAJARRO Director of the Spanish National Ballet What in Madrid would you recommend to your friends? The summer concerts in the Sabatini Gardens. Which place inspires you most? Paseo del Prado. A traditional corner of Madrid. La Capilla de la Bolsa restaurant (La Bolsa, 12). Another which is sheer avant-garde. The hotel Eurostars Madrid Tower (Paseo de la Castellana, 259B). Where can we find you shopping? In Flip (Mayor, 19) or along Calle Fuencarral. What do you like most about Madrid? Its friendly and welcoming people. www.esmadrid.com 117
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    POPULAR 'FIESTAS' In thecompany of “chulapos” and “manolas” When the fiestas come around, the streets fill with food stalls and improvised musical stages, while the bars bring their counters out on to the streets. Dressed as “chulapos” (the local residents of Maravillas or Malasaña) and “manolos” (those from Lavapiés), Madrilenians come out to celebrate the most traditional of festivals, alongside whoever wishes to join them. SAN ISIDRO FESTIVITIES For Madrid's patron saint's day, in the middle of May, the festivities and celebrations cross over to the other side of the Manzanares river to the district of Carabanchel to celebrate the fiesta on the fields of San Isidro. If you have never seen it before, don’t miss the choirs and groups giving live performances of Madridthemed zarzuelas (light operas) and 118 www.esmadrid.com dancing the typical local dance, the chotis. Great fun. In August, Lavapiés celebrates its traditional festivities in honour of San Lorenzo and San Cayetano. Wander through the narrow illuminated streets bedecked with Manila shawls for a spectacle that you can only see here. FESTIVAL OF LA PALOMA These festivities celebrate another of Madrid’s patron saints, this time in August. The festive atmosphere extends to the streets adjoining the church devoted to this virgin (in La Latina), from the church of San Francisco el Grande to Plaza de la Cebada. The celebrations for youngsters, including concerts, are held in Las Vistillas and in Cornisa park. NEW YEAR                      .      ,       ,  . www.esmadrid.com/en/san-isidro
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    “They serve thebest G&Ts in the world here” CHARLES ROSS BUSINESSMAN In love with Madrid, he travels the world promoting his latest creation, Fever-Tree premium tonic. In your opinion, which is the best all-round hotel in Madrid? El Único (Claudio Coello, 67). It’s perfect for accommodation, meetings and excellent food. The Villa Magna (Paseo Castellana, 22) and Urban (San Jerónimo, 34) are sheer luxury. The architectural design and the rooſtop terrace of the Puerta América (Av. América, 41) never cease to amaze me. Where do you like to go for an appetizer? The markets are great places, for example San Antón (Augusto Figueroa, 24) or San Miguel (Plaza San Miguel). Another great option is the Hapsburg district. A place for good tapas? Casa Lucas (Cava Baja, 30), La Perejila (Cava Baja, 25), la Taberna de Goyo (Cava Baja, 34), La Bardemcilla (Augusto Figueroa, 47), Casa Botín (Cuchilleros, 17)… Their tapas are all 120 www.esmadrid.com a delight for the tastebuds. Not to mention El Atómico (Meléndez Valdés, 58). They serve the best potato salad. A restaurant for a leisurely lunch? El Urrechu (Barlovento, 1), Alkalde (Jorge Juan, 10) or Goizeko Wellington (Villanueva, 34), especially if, like me, you love Basque cuisine. For an oriental flavour, Sushi 99 (Ponzano, 99). An aſternoon gin & tonic? There are so many places! O’Clock (Juan Bravo, 25), Urban, Le Cabrera (Bárbara de Braganza, 2), The Gin Room (Academia, 7)… Spain is the country that makes the best G&Ts in the world. Where do you prefer to spend a great night with friends? There are also many places: Serrano 41, Moma (José Abascal, 56), Fortuny (Fortuny, 34), Teatro Real (Pza. Isabel II) The Fine Arts Circle (Alcalá, 42).
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    AS A FAMILY 122-132 FROMATTRACTIONS AND GAMES TO EXHIBITIONS AND MYSTERIES FOR KIDS AND ADULTS OF ALL AGES. 122 BIG THRILLS 123 GREAT SHOWS 124125 SPORTING PASSIONS 126127 ACCESSIBLE SCIENCE 128 A SPECIAL PROGRAMME 129 MYSTERIES AND LEGENDS 130131 INTERVIEW Carolina Herrera 132 WHAT'S ON
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    AS A FAMILY Funfor all ages THERE IS A MADRID ESPECIALLY FOR KIDS, OFFERING COUNTLESS ACTIVITIES TO BE ENJOYED BY YOUR CHILDREN, NIECES AND NEPHEWS, OR GRANDCHILDREN. BUT BE CAREFUL: THEY'LL WANT TO COME BACK. BIG THRILLS At Casa de Campo Do you want to really amaze the children? Thrills are guaranteed at Madrid's Parque de Atracciones amusement park and, in particular, on the Starflyer, which involves a 20-storey free fall! When you begin to feel the heat, cool off with a splash on the Fjords, Rapids and Sawmill water rides. At night, you can take a ride on the Big Wheel and contemplate Madrid from a height. At the Warner Bros Park, which competes with the Parque de Atracciones to see which can offer the most devious loops, you can find some of your favourite cartoon characters, life-sized. Go and be amazed by the animals at the Zoo-Aquarium, 122 www.esmadrid.com along with cute creatures such as Panda cubs Po and De De, who are already two years old. Another tip: don’t miss the sea lions’ show. FROM THE POLES TO THE MANGROVES At Faunia visitors can immerse themselves in exotic ecosystems recreated in detail, including the African jungle, North and South Poles, and mangroves. The park is both a zoo and a botanical garden.
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    MADRID FROM ABOVE       ,                 ,    . BIG THRILLS. At the Parque de Atracciones, the Abismo rollercoaster reaches 100 km/h. On the right: jugglers show off their tricks at the renovated Teatro Circo Price, now a multipurpose venue. GREAT SHOWS For all audiences Well-known and loved fairy tales and films in the forms of musicals are also very popular with young audiences. The Lion King, Cinderella and The Sound of Music are just some of the shows that make for a truly unforgettable evening of singing and dancing. All other theatre genres for the little ones, such as puppet shows, clowns, storytelling can also be enjoyed both in matinée and evening sessions at venues throughout Madrid. The Teatro Circo Price is a multipurpose venue staging shows for all the family. This www.esmadrid.com/en/children-madrid space, very different to a traditional circus, is designed to be enjoyed above all by children, although adults will also be amazed by the spectacle. Every year, the best specialists participate in its Christmas programme. These experts also pass on their skills in workshops. Here you can witness the most innovative and surprising artistic movements and learn from the experts who pass on their skills in workshops. www.esmadrid.com 123
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    SO MUCH IN PLAY                  . SPORTING PASSIONS Goooaaal! With 9 Champions League Cups and 32 Spanish Liga titles under its belt, Real Madrid has won more awards than any other club in history. A tour of the Bernabéu allows you to get right to the heart of the stadium, sit on the benches and tread the pitch. At Atlético de Madrid's stadium more than 1,000 historical items are on display; Rayo Vallecano's stadium sings the praises of the epic survivors; and the Spanish team's stadium, in Las Rozas, celebrates their World Cup win in South Africa. START THE ENGINES A rally legend, Carlos Sainz gives his name to one of the most spectacular go-karting circuits around. And at the Palacio de Hielo (only closed in the summer) you can enjoy some great ice-skating on an Olympic-sized rink. 124 www.esmadrid.com *AL FRESCO* »MADRID RÍO The city's new green avenue offers BMX tracks, rollerblading and skating, a climbing wall and much more. »SNOW ZONE The Xanadú shopping centre boasts the only indoor ski slope in Spain (A-5 road, Arroyomolinos). » PICNIC Madrid's main green areas, like Casa de Campo, Monte del Pardo and Dehesa la Villa, have picnic tables where families can enjoy outdoor eating.
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    www.esmadrid.com/en/sports-madrid LAURA CEBALLOS @GreyElephantMad Director ofthe children's centre Grey Elephant A place to have a meal/snack with the kids. For a meal San Miguel Market or Harina in Puerta de Alcalá, and for an afternoon snack: churros at San Ginés. A park that gives them space to play. Plaza de Oriente, near the Palace and the Teatro Real. They can play on the swings until they are tired and learn the names of the Visigoth kings. The most fascinating museum for children. The Prado or the Archaeological Museum which is currently being refurbished. And if you need to buy a gift? The sweets made by nuns available at Jardín del Convento (Cordõn, 1). FUN. The pandas Po and De De born at the Zoo Aquarium, and the riverside park Madrid Río. On the previous page, the Real Madrid Museum at the Bernabéu Stadium. www.esmadrid.com 125
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    MXdrXd Rxxx ACCESSIBLE SCIENCELearning through play Enjoying yourself while you learn: that's the way education should be, and in Madrid many centres know how to make this happen. Starting with a classic, we have the National Museum of Natural Science, where dinosaur skeletons are the main attraction. At the National Museum of Science and Technology we can learn about the world's greatest inventions - including many from Spain. The Museum of Anthropology offers a thrilling journey into the past, as does the Archaeological Museum. The first makes a call for tolerance and respect for 126 www.esmadrid.com others, while the second reveals keys to history seen through other eyes. BEYOND THE STARS At CosmoCaixa, science is brought to visitors through play, even with the most abstract concepts. At the Planetarium we can see beyond the stars. Meanwhile, the Imax cinema shows 3D documentaries reproducing black holes and stellar explosions.
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    CRISTINA CASTRO @jristina Director ofthe magazine On Madrid A must. Lunch or a picnic at El Retiro Park. An experience. The children's sessions at Microteatro por Dinero. To eat. Le Pain Quotidien and La Cocinita de Chamberí (Trafalgar, 12). Madrid's best-kept secret. The children's events at the libraries. For shopping. Cool Kids (Antonio Acua, 10), Bebés de Chamberí (Gonzalo Cõrdoba, 7) and Baby Deli (various branches). 240 METEORITES On display at the National Museum of Natural Science. Many have fallen in Spain 500 SPECIES Each in its own ecosystem, live together at the Zoo Aquarium at Casa de Campo. SCIENCE. Life in the desert recreated at the Museum of Anthropology; an experiment at CaixaForum. On the left: the dinosaur room at the Science Museum. 100 FOOTBALL TROPHIES You can see them at the Real Madrid stadium museum. www.esmadrid.com 127
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    A SPECIAL PROGRAMME Intheir own language Children and adults have different ways of looking at art. For this reason, Madrid's three largest museums, the Prado, Reina Sofía and Thyssen, as well as the cultural centre La Casa Encendida, offer a special programme of events for kids, from workshops through to children's audioguides. MADRID FOR KIDS The city organises family tours through the Colón and Plaza Mayor tourist centres. The routes last two hours, encompassing Hapsburg Madrid, Royal Madrid and El Retiro Park. You'll be given a map showing different stops on the way and an activities book so that the kids are entertained during breaks. GROUP TRIPS. Above: children listen to a guide on a visit to the Prado Museum. Below: A "family tour" of Royal Madrid. On the right: inside the Ratón Pérez Museum. * KEY OUTINGS * »TITIRILANDIA The puppet theatre at El Retiro Park offers free, open-air entertainment all year round. »BOTANICAL GARDENS A visit here will change the way you look at the plant world. It is home to exotic species from across the globe. »BOAT RIDE When the weather is good, families and couples take to the lake in El Retiro Park. 128 www.esmadrid.com
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    www.esmadrid.com/en/museum-madrid MYSTERIES AND LEGENDSDon't open that door... Madrid is full of secrets. For example, did you know that ratón Pérez, Spain's tooth fairy mouse, lives here? In a doorway on Calle Arenal you'll find his fun museum, while the cultural centre Casa de América, located in a former palace, has all the atmosphere of a haunted house. A visit full of mystery will put you in contact with the spirit world. Without leaving the world of shadows, we descend into the old Chamberí metro station, which aſter falling into disuse was renamed Andén Cero, and is now an Underground Museum. Strong emotions can be found where you least expect it. The Convent of San Plácido, near Gran Vía, houses an elaborate candelabra that serves to recall the Holy Office of the Inquisition in the 17th century. SCREAMS OF LAUGHTER Two attractions that never fail are the theatrical frights of the Horror Tunnel at the Amusement Park, where the screams you hear are of laughter, and the Wax Museum with its gallery of monsters and waxwork models of famous figures past and present. MICRÓPOLIX         ,                . www.esmadrid.com 129
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    "I love museums thathave activities for children" CAROLINA HERRERA DESIGNER The daughter of the fashion designer fell in love with a bullfighter and stayed in Madrid, where she founded the first of her Baby Deli stores, specializing in organic and educational products for all the family. @babydeli What place do you recommend to friends when they come to Madrid? Plaza Mayor. I used to live there and I was able to experience its magic first-hand. People don't oſten get to know it because they only pass through. What are the latest trends in children's leisure activities? I love taking my children to art galleries and museums that have special activities for them. That way they can have fun while they learn about art. Any place in particular? The Prado Museum. I think it is one of the world's best museums. Its art collection is wonderful and children find it interesting, too. Though they need a good guide who knows how to get them interested. children can play freely and enjoy a bit of nature. Where would you suggest for a family meal? El Botánico restaurant (Ruiz de Alarcón, 27), close to the Prado: it's quiet and has a magnificent shady terrace. Where do you go when you have to buy a giſt? To my own shop, Baby Deli (Lagasca, 54). Where else would I go? The best adventure in Madrid is... Going to any of the parks and gardens in the heart of Madrid, where Which is the best of them? El Retiro Park, without a doubt. Your latest discovery in Madrid. The markets. I love buying fresh fruit and vegetables, and natural foods, and that's where I find them. www.esmadrid.com 131
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    WHAT'S ON FOR FAMILIES >>>>>>FOR FURTHER INFORMATION visit www.esmadrid.com/en/children-madrid MADRID IS A CITY FOR ALL AGES, AND KIDS ARE NO EXCEPTION: JUST TAKE A LOOK AT THE PROGRAMME OF EVENTS DESIGNED WITH CHILDREN IN MIND. The Christmas spirit is here and everywhere At Christmas time, street markets, like the one held in Plaza Mayor, designer lighting, nativity scenes and theme shows pop up all over Madrid. Visitors can enjoy all the magic of the season on the 'Navibus', a Christmas bus on which a group of guides show them the best the capital has to offer in the Yuletide season. The celebrations reach their climax with the Three Kings' Parade. From 2 December to 6 January traditions still dazzle visitors today. >WHEN: >ALL THE MAGIC: Centuries-old TAKE NOTE CIRCUS SCHOOL Do you dream of being a trapeze artist? Well, Teatro Circo Price is running a children’s workshop where you can learn lots of secrets from the circus. From 1 February to 31 May. CARNIVAL The people of Madrid dress up in bright colours and take to the streets during the week before Lent. From 17 to 22 February. SWIMMING POOLS There's a vast network of municipal swimming pools providing relief from the heat. From June to September. Teatralia The festival for younger audiences Puppets, theatre, dance and music, especially for children. This event will involve performances in many locations, from alternative venues, such as Cuarta Pared and Pradillo, to publicly owned centres such as La Casa Encendida and the Fine Arts Circle. >WHEN: March. >WHAT TO EXPECT: Incredible performances. 132 Kites flying in the sky In Juan Carlos I Park The opening of the park in 1992 marked the recovery of a zone which had badly deteriorated. Today, it features a special area known as the 'kite esplanade', where many fans of this hobby come to fly their kites when the weather is good. >WHEN: Spring is the best season here. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It's a unique visual spectacle. www.esmadrid.com
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    GREEN 134-143 ENJOY THE OUTDOORSAND DISCOVER THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PARKS AND GARDENS ON FOOT. 134135 MADRID RÍO PARK 136137 HISTORIC PARKS 138 SUNSETS 139 GARDENS 141 PEDESTRIAN AREAS 142 PASEO DEL PRADO 143 INTERVIEW Chema Martínez
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    GREEN Madrid invites youto take a stroll BREATHE DEEPLY AND COME AND DISCOVER THE PARKS, GARDENS AND PEDESTRIAN AREAS OF MADRID: REVITALISE YOURSELF AND ENJOY THE OUTDOORS. MADRID RÍO PARK The vast green avenue It may be hard to believe but just a few years ago this 10km-long parkland, which today is filled with cyclists and people taking a stroll in the shade of its loſty trees, was a congested motorway next to the Manzanares river. The road, however, was moved underground to make way for the vegetation, resulting in a green avenue that links up woodland and historic parks. What's more, this project designed by the Burgos&Garrido studio boasts outdoor cafés, courts to practise sports ranging from basketball, skateboarding and in-line skating, BMX circuits, a climb- 134 www.esmadrid.com ing wall and the new city beach, with clouds of spray and water jets where you can cool off. FROM ONE PARK TO ANOTHER The route begins at Casa de Campo, running past Campo del Moro and San Isidro Park before reaching Arganzuela Park. It continues along Tierno Galván Park and then making its way through a final section along the Linear Park of the Manzanares River.
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    GO RUNNING  ' , '     :           ,              . www.esmadrid.com/en/madridrio www.esmadrid.com 135
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    www.esmadrid.com/en/parks-madrid 172 GARDENS Madrid is oneof the European cities with the largest proportion of green areas. 10 KILOMETRES This is the length of the vast green avenue that is the riverside project Madrid Río. 1,722 HECTARES The surface area of Casa de Campo, four times the size of Central Park. 136 www.esmadrid.com HISTORIC PARKS Romanticism Designed to be enjoyed by the royal family, El Retiro Park is the green heart of Madrid. As well as admiring well-tended spaces such as the Cecilio Rodríguez and Parterre gardens, you can go boating on the lake or check out an art exhibition at the resplendent Glass Palace (you can even have your tarot read along the way). A popular circuit for runners, Paseo de Coches also plays host to the Book Fair at the end of spring, where you can learn about the latest releases. Casa de Campo was once a royal hunting ground. Today, it is one of the largest city parks in Europe, serving as an open-air setting for a fun day outdoors. Go for a cycle and check out the mountain bike circuits, have a picnic under the pines and oaks, or head down to the lake's leisure area: the possibilities are endless. NOBLE SPLENDOUR Inspired by French and Italian styles, the magnificent Capricho Park was commissioned in the 18th century by the Duchess of Osuna. Neglected for many years, in recent decades it has recovered its former splendour. The nearby Quinta de los Molinos Park also has noble origins. It boasts pools, fountains, ponds and a small palace, as well as the mill which gives the park its name.
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    JOAQUÍN ARAUJO @joaquinaraujo Naturalist and environmental communicator Whenis the best time of year to visit Madrid? In autumn, when life is renewed. What can Madrid be proud of? Its high number of trees per inhabitant. What is the city's greatest environmental treasure? The vast natural space Monte de El Pardo. Which is the city's most beautiful but lesser-known garden? El Capricho de Osuna, for its range of plants and rich wildlife. What location offers the best views? I like to film from the rooftop of the Fine Arts Circle. NATURAL SPACES. Above: a bandstand in the romantic Capricho Park; jogging path at Casa de Campo. Here, the lake at El Retiro Park. www.esmadrid.com 137
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    MXdrXd Rxxx SUNSET. TheTemple of Debod, in the Oeste Park, was brought here from Egypt where it was also placed to take advantage of the sunset. 138 www.esmadrid.com SUNSETS Take in the view Due to its continental climate, Madrid's sky has a unique clear quality that lends itself to some spectacular sunsets which stain the scattered clouds red and orange. You can enjoy the phenomenon from many points in the city. The most iconic place to enjoy this moment is the Temple of Debod, in the Oeste Park, a giſt from the Egyptian government to Spain in 1968 for the country's collaboration in salvaging architectural treasures from the Aswan Dam. More than 2,000 years old, the temple was placed to match its original orientation from east to west in order to take advantage of its aspect at sunset. From Las Vistillas Park you can enjoy panoramic views from the lawns, while on the roof terraces of many Gran Vía hotels, it goes hand in hand with a beer or cocktail. Even more elegant is the view from the open-air cafés in Plaza de Oriente, whose name, 'East Square', gives away its orientation. BIRD'S EYE VIEW From the top floor of the renowned cultural institution the Fine Arts Circle, you can watch the sun go down over the rooſtops of Madrid in a burst of light and colour that spreads from Gran Vía to the mountains.
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    *KEY FACTS* »THE OLDESTTREE A bald cypress that grows near the Puerta de Felipe IV gate at El Retiro Park. It was brought here from Mexico in 1633. »BONSAI The Botanical Gardens are home to an important collection of bonsai trees looked after by landscape gardener Luis Vallejo, an international expert in the art. »A MELTING POT OF STYLES GARDENS Enter paradise on earth Gardens were originally designed to be a representation of heaven on earth, and there are many beautiful examples all over Madrid. In the area surrounding the Royal Palace you can visit the Sabatini Gardens, which are the setting for musical performances during the Veranos de la Villa summer festival; and Campo del Moro, influenced by various classical landscaping styles. With a surface area of 20 hectares, it gently slopes in the direction of the new Madrid Río Park. HIDDEN GEMS Not as easy to find but equally delightful, there are other gardens hidden between elegant buildings in Madrid. These include the ones belonging to the Sorolla, Lázaro Galdiano and Reina Sofía museums, as well as the garden at Príncipe de Anglona Palace in Plaza de la Paja, where entrance is free.  Capricho Park is a blend of French, Italian and English styles. SPRING. At the Botanical Gardens you can find species imported from all five continents. On the left: topiary work in the Sabatini Gardens next to the Royal Palace. www.esmadrid.com 139
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    AUTUMN IS HERE '   ''                  ,     . ALBERTO IGLESIAS Soundtrack composer boasting three Oscar nominations Sounds and silence. Pedestrianisation is a wonderful thing; it gives us back silence, as well as new sounds. Let's take a walk. Along Calle Fuentes and Calle Arenal. I lived there for many years. What do you think of street musicians? They add colour, but they need to play more quietly and change 'stage' more often. What do you dream about? A quieter city, which will come with progressive electrification. Then I will be able to enjoy the sounds of swallows in spring and summer. It's something I really associate with Madrid. BY BIKE. A cycle lane running through Casa de Campo. On the next page: the underground station at Puerta del Sol, a newly pedestrianised area. 225 THOUSAND TREES One for every 14 inhabitants (and that's just counting those in the streets). 140 www.esmadrid.com 203 SPECIES Among all the types of trees, the most common is the London plane (55,000) 15 DEGREES The average temperature, with big differences between summer and winter. 3,000 HOURS OF SUNSHINE Per year, Madrid enjoys a continental climate with little rain.
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    PEDESTRIAN AREAS Awayfrom the traffic It all began in Calle Preciados which was pedestrianised in order to boost trade. Since then, the number of pedestrian areas has been growing each year. On foot, and without having to worry about traffic, you can now stroll peacefully through Puerta del Sol, Calle Arenal and a good part of Hapsburg Madrid and the Literary Quarter, free to admire the monuments and curious details of the historic centre at your own pace. SHOPPING AND TAPAS Pedestrians have also become a priority on Calle Fuencarral and Cava Baja. The first leads to Gran Vía and boasts many fashion stores aimed at a younger clientele, as well as numerous bars offering visitors a chance to recharge their batteries. The second, located in La Latina, provides an opportunity to savour a wide variety of tapas. This extensive network of pedestrian streets makes even more sense with the Sunday opening hours enjoyed in downtown Madrid. The alterations to Calle Serrano also deserves special mention: the pavements have been widened and it now boasts a brand new cycle lane. www.esmadrid.com 141
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    NEW ICON. Vertical gardendesigned by Patrick Blanc on the wall of CaixaForum. HEADY SPRING                 ,        '  . *WHAT'S ON* »MUSICAL TREAT PASEO DEL PRADO Breathe in the art Paseo de la Castellana ends with an elegant tree-lined avenue which is not only ideal for a stroll, but is also flanked by the Prado and Thyssen museums, as well as the Botanical Gardens, where you can find 5,000 plant species imported from all over the world. Opened 250 years ago, its entrance features a spectacular iron gate that leads on to a journey of the senses. Desert and tropical ecosystems are recreated in the gardens' greenhouses. Just on the other side of the Paseo is the cultural centre CaixaForum, on which the French landscape gardener Patrick Blanc planted Spain's first vertical garden. Its lushness is to be admired. 142 www.esmadrid.com During June and September, the Capricho Park runs a programme of open-air concerts at the Palacete esplanade. You can hear jazz, chamber music and much more. Sa turdays and Sundays at midday. Avda. de la Alameda de Osuna, s/n. »LA ROSALEDA An international rose contest is held in May in this rose garden, with species of the flower from all over the world on display. Oeste Park. »ALMOND TREES IN BLOOM Towards the end of winter, the trees at Quinta de los Molinos Park burst into tones of white during their flowering season. C/ Alcalá, 477.
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    "If I'm inMadrid I go running in El Retiro Park" CHEMA MARTÍNEZ LONGDISTANCE RUNNER He is one of the best long-distance athletes in Europe, an Olympic and triple Continental medallist and an example of longevity. @chemitamartinez What is your latest discovery in Madrid? The park created to replace the old M-30 road, Madrid Río. If out running, where can we find you? Anywhere, but if I'm in Madrid, without a doubt El Retiro Park. Which is your favourite race held in the city? The San Silvestre Vallecana race. I think it's the nicest in the world. What can Madrid be proud of in terms of sport? The range of sports you can practise here is quite good, but I would say it's the sporting spirit of Madrid's people, which makes them great fans of all disciplines. Which is the least known sports facility that you like best? I recently discovered Jarama, a racing circuit with a long history. I ran it first and then I went round it in a car. It was incredible. What spot do you recommend to friends who visit Madrid? A walk from the Royal Palace to Puerta de Alcalá. Pure Madrid! Can you suggest a restaurant where we can recharge our batteries? Try the 'broken' fried eggs dish at Casa Lucio (Cava Baja, 35). A total protein boost. Aſter a hard training session, do you have a favourite place to relax? A good spa session works wonders. Fortunately, Madrid has a wide range of spas to choose from. www.esmadrid.com 143
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    GAY-FRIENDLY 146-152 FREEDOM AND TOLERANCEIN A CITY THAT EXUDES LIGHT AND MODERNITY. 146147 COME CELEBRATE DIVERSITY 148 CHUECA: FROM ITS SQUARE TO ITS MARKET 149 OPEN MADRID 150151 INTERVIEW Boris Izaguirre 152 WHAT'S ON
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    GOURMET TERRACE. SanAntón market is one of Chueca’s essential gems. And its terrace is the best place of all for watching the world go by in this cosmopolitan neighbourhood. GAY-FRIENDLY MADRID LG BT Diversity, comfort and freedom MADRID IS TOLERANCE'S KILOMETRE ZERO. CHUECA AND OTHER PARTS OF THE CITY EXUDE DIVERSITY ACCOMPANIED BY SHOPPING, GASTRONOMY AND MODERNITY WITHOUT PREJUDICE. 146 www.esmadrid.com
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    SHOPPING Much like anywhere inthe city centre, you can come and visit Chueca's shops any Sunday of the year. COME CELEBRATE DIVERSITY A great rainbow-coloured web The fact that Madrid is a welcoming city is no secret. Neither is it any secret that its main streets host a week of partying, fun and culture during the city's Gay Pride festivities. Everyone from the gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender community takes part, but heterosexual individuals and families of all kinds are also welcome to join in one of the biggest events on diversity and tolerance in the world. From the last days of June to the first weekend in July, vibrant Madrid lives and breathes respect. Residents and businesses alike have converted the Chueca neighbourhood into the epicentre of LGBT normalization. The area's respectful, festive, welcoming nature, open to all wherever they are from, has reached as far as Plaza de Callao, Plaza de España and the Triball neighbourhood. A WIDE RANGE OF OPTIONS Restaurants, hotels to suit all pockets, pubs, nightclubs, bars and shops for all tastes and styles (from the most traditional to the trendiest) complete the range of options offered by a city which is pure vitality. CULTURE In the streets of Chueca you can also find theatres, specialist bookshops and historic buildings. ACCOMMODA TION Inside and outside Chueca, Madrid offers all kinds of gayfriendly businesses and hotels. A QUESTION OF PRIDE '    .          ,  '  . MAIKA CONTRERAS President of the business association AEGAL The heart of Chueca. The square that bears its name, and its market. Which other neighbourhoods imitate it best? The Literary Quarter, Malasaa and, more recently, Lavapiés. There are some who think that Chueca is just nightlife. It is home to art galleries, boutiques, cafés, among other things. A place to escape from it all. Bar Truco (Gravina, 10). www.esmadrid.com 147
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    www.esmadrid.com/en/gay-madrid CHUECA Much more thanjust a neighbourhood During the day, life in Chueca carries on as usual: small businesses, cafés and grocery shops rub shoulders with art galleries, boutiques and nightclubs. The area also represents a slice of historic Madrid, in which a brief stroll takes you to Casa de las Siete Chimeneas, a 16thcentury building in the heart of Plaza del Rey. It has a zarzuela ring to it, with its main square and streets like Calle Barbieri named aſter this Spanish operatic genre. But it is also home to important shopping streets open Monday to Sunday, like Fuencarral, Argensola, Piamonte and Barquillo, now entering Las Salesas. Chueca is all about relaxing in Plaza Vázquez de Mella or wandering up towards Gran Vía. Of course it's not just a neighbourhood: it's so much more. FROM ITS SQUARE TO ITS MARKET Between two tourist hotspots Entering Plaza de Chueca from the underground station you are met with a different scene every time. Towering above, its charming buildings show the neighbourhood's traditional side. On street level, it's seriously cosmopolitan and eclectic. The rows of outdoor bars invite us to have a drink, see and be seen. Flanked by traditional taverns and cafés, its streets are a succession of pubs, fruit and veg shops, other stores and fast food stalls. Generously, it has given up some of the limelight to the new San Antón Market: design applied to food, ample space, shared tables, parking, a supermarket, and a restaurant whose terrace offers views over a neighbourhood which asserts its position in the list of must-visit places. 148 www.esmadrid.com ÁLVARO VILLARRUBIA Photographer To eat. Casa Perico (Ballesta 18): for classic dishes. The best background for a snapshot. Some of the façades in Hapsburg Madrid. A must-stroll. Along Gran Vía, from Red de San Luis to Callao. A unique shop. Mandalay (San Joaquín, 9): antiques and interiors. Where to be seen. I never miss Madrid Fashion Week.
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    Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ONLY IN MADRID         (     )    . OPEN MADRID Come and join us Liberal attitudes are certainly not only confined to Chueca. Other neighbourhoods have also become places where sexual orientation is the least important thing. Due to its close proximity and its effervescent nightlife, the Malasaña area has also made a name for itself. Streets such as Calle La Palma and San Vicente Ferrer as well as famous squares like Plaza del Dos de Mayo are just some of the places offering bustling trade and entertainment, where you can forget conventions and get carried away by the constant coming and going of people in search of alternative venues (and a few old favourites), intimate gigs and impeccable, well-priced restaurants. ALTERNATIVES TO LAVAPIÉS From the back of Gran Vía to the back of Sol and nestled between Atocha, Embajadores and Plaza Tirso de Molina, Madrid's old Jewish quarter is today a great mix of ethnic backgrounds and local residents both old and new. Its steep streets are long thoroughfares brightened by the outdoor seating of venues to suit all tastes, including dens playing great music, alternative spots, gayfriendly bars and typical taverns where wine, beer and tapas are the order of the day. DIVERSITY. On the next page: San Antón Market, a new meeting place in Chueca. Above: if you're looking for diversity, other areas worth checking out are Lavapiés, Malasaña and Las Salesas. Above: Topacio Fresh at her Fresh Gallery, in the Salamanca district, dedicated to showcasing emerging art. www.esmadrid.com 149
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    "The spirit ofChueca has spread across the whole city" BORIS IZAGUIRRE WRITER/SHOWMAN Born in Venezuela but adopted by Madrid, he is one of Spain's most popular tv personalities, as well as a successful author. @Borisizaguirre What does Madrid have that nowhere else does? Light, without a doubt. The first thing you think is: how hot it is, and how bright everything is! How was your welcome in Madrid? Brilliant, in every way. I arrived in 1990. I never imagined that weekend that I would stay and live here. The city shakes you. I've been living like this for more than 18 years. What symbolises Chueca? We owe Chueca a lot. I now live closer to El Retiro Park, and I find it an incredibly fun, free neighbourhood. I think the spirit of Chueca has spread throughout the city. Where do you like to go? To Why Not (San Bartolomé, 7). I have fantastic memories of this bar, and it hasn't lost its charm. I see myself dancing there again and I love it. And for a pleasant stroll? Arturo Soria could be a street in Caracas. Madrid has a very hidden magic that reminds me of all our Latin American cities in their best era. now I really like Luzi Bombón (Pº. de la Castellana, 35) and Murillo (Ruiz de Alarcón, 27). The last of these was an old 1940s bar opposite the Prado, which has just been extended a bit with a restaurant serving some real delicacies. It's one of those places where if you stay, you don't know what will happen. What about an image that has an impact on you? The sky in Oeste Park puts on such an amazing show. The first time you see the Royal Palace from this side it looks like a huge mountain. Where do you like to hang out? I love Las Salesas and, of course, Calle Argensola, where I wrote many of my novels. It's a place that amuses me a great deal. I always think of it as being very French. A recommendation for a place to eat and have an early drink. There are many traditional places such as the Basque grill Dantxari (Ventura Rodríguez, 8), and right Where do you go shopping? There's an amazing range of brands on offer here. When I need something, I find that Calle Jorge Juan usually ticks all the boxes. www.esmadrid.com 151
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    WHAT'S ON: LGBT >>>>>>KEEP UP WITH IT ALL ON www.esmadrid.com/en/whats-on-madrid MADRID BECOMES A CENTRE OF INTEREST FOR EVE RYONE, WITH EVENTS THAT COMBINE THE TRADITIONAL WITH A TASTE FOR THE LATEST TRENDS. Gay Pride Festivities The pride of the gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender community is upheld by this huge party packed with speeches, parades, live concerts and much more, bringing together hundreds of thousands of people every year. One of the most eagerly awaited events is the Gay Pride Parade that runs from Puerta de Alcalá to Plaza de España. From 3 to 7 July 2013. Proclamation in Plaza de Chueca on 3 July. >WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IT: It's a great street party for all. >WHEN: ALSO FITUR LGBT For the second year running, the tourism fair invites the public to find out more about gay-friendly businesses and destinations. January. MADBEAR Bears and their fans from all over the world meet up once a year in Chueca's bars and clubs. For men with no complexes. December. FOR THE GIRLS Women from across Europe will be attending the exclusive macrofestival Nosotras somos todas. May. Visible Festival Venues across Madrid This event offers different works by artists who make an important contribution to the LGBT collective, including activities such as dance, theatre, children's theatre, cinema, exhibitions, music and poetry. >WHEN: June-July. >FOR WHOM: All lovers of culture, the arts and cultural diversity. 152 LesGaiCineMad Festival At various cinemas This is one of the most important specialist film festivals around, both in terms of numbers of attendees and films shown. A true standard-bearer of Spanish and Latin American productions for the rest of the world. >WHEN: November. >WHAT TO EXPECT: The best selection of shorts, documentaries and feature-length films with an LGBT theme. www.esmadrid.com
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    SLEEPING 154-159 HOTELS FOR FEELINGLIKE ROYALTY, BREATHING DESIGN AND WATCHING THE PENNIES. 153 WELCOME 156 SLEEP LIKE ROYALTY 157 DESIGNER 158 THE COMPLETE PACKAGE 159 INTERVIEW Kike Sarasola
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    SLEEPING Let us pamperyou, by day and by night FANTASY. One of the suites in the ME Hotel (this page), a bathroom at the Adler and a sitting room in the Santo Mauro. Exclusive and inviting ambiences. MADRID HOTELS ARE THE GATEWAY TO FANTASTIC EX PERIENCES WHETHER YOU'RE STAYING THE NIGHT OR JUST DROPPING IN. 154 www.esmadrid.com WELCOME Make yourself at home In Madrid you'll find that hotel life embraces everyone. All efforts are focused on making anyone who comes through the door feel at home. Even if you don't stay in any of them, you could start your Sunday with brunch at the Intercontinental, then share a glass of Cava under the dome in the Palace before enjoying tea and cakes in the garden at the Ritz.
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    JAVIER MORO @javiermoro123 Writer andtraveller 2011 Planeta Award Which hotels have the best atmosphere? The Palace (Pza. de las Cortes, 7) and the Orfila (Orfila, 6), each with its own style. The most fabulous? The Ritz (Pza. Lealtad, 5). The most cosmpolitan, the one that makes you feel as though you could be anywhere? The Villa Magna (Castellana, 22). Which would you pick for its location and design? The Palace. Which one has the best bar? The Puerta de América (Av. América, 41). Madrid's best-kept secret? The Sorolla Museum (Gral. Martínez Campos, 37). But that's not all. These are accessible establishments that have become designer items under the management of large international firms, as well as powerful drivers of the city's cultural activity. Sometimes you can be transported to an imaginary world just by venturing onto their rooſtops high over the capital. These fashionable terraces are an essential meeting point (not just on summer evenings) and give you a fantastic bird's eye view of the great metropolis. WHERE ARE YOU STAYING? Now, more than ever, your hotel is part of your destination. In Madrid too, they guarantee your trip will be even more memorable. Family-friendly or businessoriented, central or on the outskirts, avant-garde or baroque, luxury or budget. The options are endless, but always with amazing locations, complementary services and personal attention. www.esmadrid.com 155
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    *CHECK IN* SLEEP LIKEROYALTY Where do you want to wake up? The classics have retained their charm over the years, but they're now being joined by a new generation of hotels that are bringing a new feel to places with a past. It's quite normal to find restored palaces and mansions with amazing public areas, courtyard gardens and rooſtop pools. Some are like real museums, while others are wonderful gems of interior design. There are establishments to suit all budgets in the Literary Quarter and Salamanca District, where you are guaranteed a great night's sleep. For many of these hotels, great CONTRASTS. A suite at the Ritz with another at the Silken Puerta de América and the lobby at the Oscar Room Mate. 156 www.esmadrid.com location is part of their appeal. In Madrid, your room might overlook Paseo de la Castellana, you may have views of El Retiro Park and the Prado Museum, or you could be staying right next to Puerta de Alcalá, high up over Gran Vía, near Parliament, deep in the narrow streets of Hapsburg Madrid or in palatial homes in Chamberí. You can opt for the tallest skyscraper or for one of the city's oldest inns, now beautifully restored as boutique hotels. »CHUECA All Madrid hotels are gay friendly, but here you'll find some that cater especially for guests from the LGBT community. »BARAJAS There are dozens of upmarket hotels for business travellers within a stone's throw from the airport and Campo de las Naciones. »ATOCHA The new high- speed train link into Madrid (AVE) has resulted in the appearance of new hotels. »OTHERS Further away from the city centre you can find very attractive hotels in quieter surroundings, such as Madrid Río, Arturo Soria and Mirasierra.
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    www.esmadrid.com/en/accommodation-madrid DESIGNER charm ISABEL COIXET Madridhotels have been quick to pick up on the latest trends in architecture and design, with imaginative spaces that evoke faraway places, bygone eras and fantasy images. Floors decorated mainly in white or red, marble-topped bars, city rooſtops, glass pools and futuristic beds. @isabelcoixet Film director LET'S STAY IN THE HOTEL Many of the bars and restaurants in these hotels are an integral part of modern life in Madrid. Cocktail bars, first-class wine cellars, signature cuisine and inviting spaces are all at hand for catching up with friends, intimate conversations, business meetings and family gatherings. Where do you like staying when you come to Madrid? Always close to Gran Vía, which serves as my base. Any hotel in particular? I've got several: any in the Room Mate chain, the Las Letras hotel (Gran Vía, 11), the Abalú (Pez, 19), and, when the budget allows, the Palace. How do hotels affect your mood? I'm so used to them that I doubt they have much effect on me. www.esmadrid.com 157
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    80.465 BEDS Figures from thelast Madrid hotel census prove there's room for everyone. 250 HOTELS Spread across the capital, they are mainly in the centre and the financial districts. 592 HOSTALS Accommodation for all budgets with high standards of service and cleanliness. THE COMPLETE PACKAGE Comfort, service and good prices If you just want to stay overnight at an affordable price, you'll find Madrid has a lot to choose from. Home to a large array of smaller accommodations to suit all pockets, with designer chic and well-run basic services, Madrid is proof that reasonable rates are compatible with generous and functional spaces, à la carte facilities and attentive service. For family budgets, longer stays and school groups, there's a wide range of affordable accommodation even with the major hotel chains. YOUTH HOSTEL Right in the centre of Madrid, young people can enjoy staying at one of the best youth hostels in Europe. Its great location (Mejía Lequerica, 21) and its modern amenities make it the perfect place for young tourists from home and abroad. Choosing the right hotel will make your trip all the more enjoyable. ROOM WITH A VIEW. Admire Madrid from a room at the Chic&Basic or from the Emperador hotel pool terrace. 158 www.esmadrid.com AL FRESCO          '      ,            .
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    "We're very welcoming inthis city" KIKE SARASOLA ENTREPRENEUR A former Olympic equestrian rider, he went on to set up one of the sector's most groundbreaking concepts: Room Mate hotels. @SarasolaKike What is Madrid's biggest asset in terms of its hotels? Friendliness. Our greatest quality is that we're so warm and friendly; tourists are always welcome. It's very important that they feel at home, at ease, comfortable. One of the things Room Mate is most proud of is its contribu- tion to regenerating the centre of Madrid... We've won over customers who come to stay in the city centre with our "five Ds" philosophy: they come to sleep (Dormir), shower (Ducharse) and eat breakfast (Desayunar), because the Decor is great and it's a fun (Divertido) hotel. That's how we've conquered the centre. To what extent does design and decor attract guests? It costs the same to make something beautiful as it would something ugly. That's the mindset we want to get across and we've tried to break away from the notion that you have to pay 500 euros to stay somewhere with designer looks. You can get that paying 100 euros too. Do you think that beauty is subjective? Of course, it depends on your taste, that's why all my hotels are different, some are modern and others are more classic. I think the 90s trend for uniformity was absolutely dreadful. Do you have any other favourite hotels? The Santo Mauro, which has just been renovated by Lorenzo Castillo (Zurbano, 36). On the budget side, Chic&Basic (Atocha, 113). What was missing from Madrid? Nothing, not now anyway. It used to be outdoor cafes. We have 300 days of sunshine every year and they were sorely needed. www.esmadrid.com 159
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    DAY TRIPS 162-166 FASCINATING PLACESTO VISIT LESS THAN TWO HOURS AWAY. 162163 MONUMENTAL CITIES 164165 SPECTACULAR LOCATIONS 166 PLACES TO DISCOVER OUTSIDE MADRID
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    DAY TRIPS Short Excursions GREATTRIPS. From Madrid you can visit towns and cities with a wealth of tourist attractions, such as Cuenca (on this page), Toledo, Valencia and Córdoba. DISCOVER MONUMENTAL CITIES LESS THAN TWO HOURS AWAY BY HIGH SPEED TRAIN Madrid is the starting point for Europe's most extensive high speed train network, so you can easily make day trips to Spanish towns and cities with spectacular artistic and cultural heritage attractions.     Toledo An imperial city Cuenca Quaint and abstract A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the town is world famous for its impressive Roman aqueduct. Just a short distance from Madrid, you can see monuments such as the Gothic cathedral, the Alcázar, Torre de San Esteban, the monastery of El Parral and the Corpus Christi synagogue, plus several small Romanesque churches. 162   Segovia A historic neighbour Also holding World Heritage Site status, the city preserves traces of the three cultures that once lived side by side there: Arab, Jewish and Christian. Major monuments include the Primate Cathedral, Cristo de la Luz mosque, Tránsito synagogue and the Alcázar, while the annual Corpus Christi procession is one of the most popular in Spain. Set in the impressive natural surroundings of the Castilian mountain range, this small World Heritage Site city is known all over the world for its Hanging Houses, clinging precariously to the sides of the deep gorge carved by the river Huécar. Its cathedral, steep cobbled streets and the Museum of Abstract Art are just a few reasons for spending some time here. www.esmadrid.com
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      Valladolid Castilian character Acity of kings, cardinals and great writers, Valladolid's stately past is illustrated by important historical buildings such as the Renaissance Palace of Santa Cruz and the Plaza Mayor, which was imitated all over Spain and Latin America. Alongside them we find more modern constructions such as the Science Museum and the regenerated Pisuerga river banks.   Valencia Madrid's beach The capital of the Levante region is Spain's third city and one of its principal Mediterranean ports. It is Madrid's closest sea port, now brought even closer by the new high speed train link. Set amongst fruit orchards and long sandy beaches, the city has a rich cultural and artistic heritage, including the Cathedral, the Silk Guild Hall, the IVAM museum of contemporary art, and the City of Arts and Sciences.   Zaragoza The first lady of the Ebro The capital of Aragón owes its wealth to the Ebro, Spain's largest river, which enabled it to flourish in the middle of a sun-drenched landscape. The river provided wealth to build the great Basilica of El Pilar, La Seo and the Aljafería Palace, plus the buildings, bridges and pavilions added later for the 2008 Expo, on the theme of water.   Córdoba The legacy of Al-Andalus Built on the banks of the Guadalquivir river, it was one of the first Spanish cities to be awarded World Heritage Site status. It is a fine illustration of Spain's Arab past, reflected in the Mosque and the town of Medina Azahara. The city's rich multicultural history can be seen in its tea houses, baths, courtyards and in its delicious variety of food and drink. www.esmadrid.com 163
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    SPECTACULAR LOCATIONS ONLY ASTONE'S THROW FROM MADRID In the area around the capital you can visit royal palaces, lush gardens, nature trails and medieval towns. You'll be there in the blink of an eye. ARANJUEZ On the Strawberry Train The town is best known for its Royal Palace and gardens, the most splendid in the whole of Spain. Aranjuez can be reached from Madrid on the Strawberry Train, which follows the original route of the railway officially opened in 1851. When you get off the train, a guided tour takes you round the royal apartments and recreational areas, in parkland that is now a World Heritage Site. Monumental fountains, long avenues lined with impressive trees and lakes with swans are just a few of the highlights in this picturesque manmade landscape. EL ESCORIAL San Lorenzo Royal Estate Felipe II, the ascetic king, ordered this Monastery to be built in the foothills of the mountains near Madrid as an architectural symbol of his reign. Both the size and surroundings of this refined set of Renaissance buildings will amaze you. Inside, you can admire the Courtyard of Kings, leading to the great basilica; the Hapsburg Palace, with the Battles Hall; the Picture Gallery, with works by Tintoretto, Titian and El Greco; and the Museum of Architecture in the basement. ALCALÁ DE HENARES Birthplace of Cervantes Cervantes' home town is 30 kilometres away from Madrid. The Complutense University was founded here in 1499, which is why the town is part of the Castil- 164 www.esmadrid.com ian Language Route. It has been a World Heritage Site since 1998, in recognition of monuments such as Cervantes' House and Museum, the Magistral Cathedral, the Colegio Mayor and the San Ildefonso Chapel, where Ximénez de Cisneros, the town's patron of the arts, is buried. MADRID'S MOUNTAINS Landscapes and walking trails Madrid lies at the foot of a beautiful mountain range with peaks over 2,000 metres high. It is protected as a Nature Park and is a walker's paradise, with a wide range of scenic walking trails. Places such as the Seven Peaks, the Rascafría area, Sierra Negra, the Montejo beech forest and the mountain pass of Navacerrada, with its ski resort, are of special interest. The Cotos mountain pass can be reached by train and is home to the region's largest ski resort, Valdesquí. CHINCHÓN Going back in time This historic town, strategically located on the fertile plain by the Tajuña river, boasts one of the oldest town squares in Spain, used as a location for several films (it is featured in Around the World in 80 Days). It has also been used for open-air theatre and as a bullring, and was formerly the site of the gallows. A fine example of folk-style architecture, the square is surrounded by arcaded three-storey buildings, many of which are occupied by restaurants specialising in meat dishes such as lamb and suckling pig.
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    NEARBY. Tourist destinations suchas Aranjuez (above), the Madrid Sierra and Chinchón provide a welcome breath of fresh air and are the ideal location for a short break. www.esmadrid.com 165
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    PLACES TO DISCOVER OUTSIDEMADRID Just outside the Region of Madrid you will find stunningly beautiful villages and towns, which are steeped in history and where you can enjoy architecture and gastronomy alike. LA GRANJA The summer palace SIGÜENZA A train ride to the middle ages While Aranjuez was the monarchs' winter home from home, when the weather became too hot in the summer, they took refuge in the palace of La Granja, set among Segovia's forests. It was inspired by Versailles, as shown by the series of monumental fountains you'll see in the beautiful palace gardens. The railway trip to this medieval town in Guadalajara is a great experience for children and adults alike, with entertainment by friendly troubadors who then take you on a guided tour of the castle, the majestic cathedral, the Plaza Mayor, Plazuela de la Cárcel, and Casa del Doncel. You'll have the whole day to stroll around this town, famous for its craſts and gastronomy, where time seems to have stood still. SALAMANCA University spirit From its impressive Plaza Mayor you can soak up the atmosphere that pervades its pedestrianised streets, full of student life. Make sure you see the University – one of the oldest in Europe – the two cathedrals, La Clerecía, the popular Casa de las Conchas (house of shells) and the Roman bridge. The city is also a World Heritage Site. ÁVILAGREDOS The Castilian fortress The walls round this old city, a World Heritage Site, are over two and a half kilometres in length and date back to the late 11th century. The Gothic cathedral, and the Alcázar and San Vicente gates, are just three of its architectural gems. The surrounding countryside is equally lovely. ABOVE THE CLOUDS. Left, the cathedral in Sigüenza, where time seems to have stood still since the Middle Ages. Right, a walker on the path over the Sierra de Gredos peaks. 166 www.esmadrid.com
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    USEFUL Practical information HERE'S EVERYTHINGYOU NEED TO KNOW TO FEEL RIGHT AT HOME DURING YOUR STAY IN MADRID. TO GET THE LATEST INFORMATION BEFORE YOUR TRIP VISIT WWW.ESMADRID.COM CLIMATE Madrid's dry climate and low rainfall mean that any time of year is perfect for getting to know the city in the radiant sunshine. FESTIVALS Few cities enjoy their fiestas more than Madrid. The festival season begins on the Day of the Madrid Region (2 May). Shortly aſter that, the most traditional festival - that of San Isidro (15 May) - takes place in the famous Pradera de San Isidro Park. The month of August is one long fiesta. Aſter the days of San Cayetano and San Lorenzo on 7 and 10 August -which are fiestas but still working days-, comes the Day of La Paloma (15 August). And on 9 November the city commemorates the Day of the Virgen de la Almudena, the patron saint of Madrid. During Holy Week, you can enjoy concerts and beautiful processions through the old quarter, while Christmas brings out the street markets, light displays, New Year's Eve celebrations in Sol, and the Three Kings Parade. ACCESSIBLE MADRID Metro Madrid's underground is one of the most accessible public transport services in Europe. 60% of stations have liſts, while more than half of the trains are adapted to regulations on accessibility. Eurotaxi These taxis have the same tariffs as all others, but are adapted for people with disabilities. Information service: 915 478 600/010. Guides The City Council organizes free visits adapted to any disability. Tel: 915 881 636. AVERAGE ANNUAL TEMPERATURE (in ºC) ANNUAL RAINFALL (l/m2) Jan Jan Feb Feb Mar Mar Apr Apr May May Jun Jun Jul Jul Aug Aug Sep Sep Oct Oct Nov Nov Dec Dec -10 -5 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 Culture The main museums, theatres and cultural centres are adapted to the needs of people with disabilities. TIMETABLES Small businesses usually open from 10 am to 8.30 pm. Larger stores and chains are open all day and close later. Shopaholics are in luck when visiting the majority of Madrid's neighbourhoods: shops can open every day if they wish, including holidays (excepting 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 25 December and 1 January). WIFI As part of its commitment to innovation, Madrid has installed free Wi-Fi in three iconic squares - Santo Domingo, Olavide and Plaza Mayor - as well as in EMT's local buses and in public buildings such as libraries and markets. Wi-Fi is also available at newsstands bearing the Wi-Fi logo and in numerous cafés throughout the city. www.esmadrid.com 167
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    TRANSPORT Practical information HOW TOGET THERE BY AIR Barajas All commercial flights into Madrid land here. As it is only 12 kilometres northeast of the capital, it can be reached quickly and economically. The official opening of T4 in 2006 made it one of the world's most modern airports, with its breathtaking design by architect Richard Rogers, its highly efficient operation and a shopping area selling many leading international brands. The new terminal has helped to relieve pressure on the other three terminals, where checking in is now faster. Barajas handles more traffic than any other airport in Spain and is the fiſth busiest in Europe. OneWorld operates in T4, while SkyTeam and StarAlliance operate in T1 and T2 respectively. Metro On line 8 the journey from Nuevos Ministerios station 172 www.esmadrid.com takes around 20 minutes to T4, and 12 minutes to the other terminals. A surcharge is payable. Train The Cercanías suburban train network now includes line C-1, linking Príncipe Pio station with T4 at Barajas and stopping at Atocha, Nuevos Ministerios and Chamartín. Bus The brand new Airport Express service runs to and from Barajas 24 hours a day. There is a bus every 15 minutes during the day and every 35 minutes all through the night. You need to allow about 40 minutes for your journey. The bus makes only three stops: O'Donnell at the junction with Doctor Esquerdo, Plaza de Cibeles and Atocha train station (daytime only). Shuttle Bus This free Service runs between all terminals every five minutes from 6.30am to 11.30pm; every 20 minutes from 11.30pm to 1.50am and every 40 minutes from 1.50am to 6.30am. Taxi The airport is only 12 kilometres northeast of the city. The fare should be about 30 euros from the centre of Madrid. Car The airport is well connected to the city's main roads, including the A1 and A2 highways and the M-40, M11 and R2 motorways. Car parks Barajas has over 10,000 parking spaces, conveniently located in seven zones near the terminals. BY TRAIN Atocha and Chamartín Wherever you're coming from, Madrid is easy to reach by train. Atocha and Chamartín stations lie at the centre of the impressive Spanish railway network. It includes the AVE high speed train service, which connects with the French high speed line. The Cercanías local train network links the two stations to each other and to the city centre at the brand new Sol station. Following extension work, Atocha station is set to become the new Barajas: it is expected to handle 36 million passengers by 2025.
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    Metrobus Multi-Trip Card:€12.20 (Prices for December 2012). TAXI There are currently more than 15,000 taxis in Madrid, with increasing numbers accepting credit cards and using GPS technology to ensure you get to your destination by the shortest route. You can take a taxi at a taxi rank, hail one in the street or request one by phone. You'll always find one at your service. The fares are affordable. BICYCLE There can be no healthier AVE The high-speed train is the most convenient option for passengers, who can travel quickly and easily to 21 Spanish cities, including Barcelona, Valencia, Valladolid, Sevilla, Zaragoza, Toledo, Segovia, Cuenca, Córdoba and Málaga, at reasonable prices. Medium distance Mediumdistance trains link Madrid with Spain's other major cities; the trainhotel to Galicia offers a comfortable overnight sleeper train service. Cercanías The local train service has nine lines in the Region of Madrid area, all of which start from Atocha mainline station or pass through it. Depending on zone restrictions, you can use the same tickets for trains, metro and buses. ROADS By car and bus Madrid is the country's transport hub, with all six national motorways converging here. The city also has an extensive system of ring roads. Numerous bus services link the capital with major Spanish and European cities. The main bus stations are Estación Sur and Avenida de América. HOW TO GET AROUND METRO You won't find a more convenient way of getting round the city. The fast and extensive network is one of the cheapest in Europe. There are twelve lines, plus three Light Metro lines running round the outskirts of the city. They take you to all parts of the city and to nearby towns. See the map on the next page. BUS If you want to watch the world go by while you travel in comfort, the bus is for you. Buses run between 6am and 11.30pm, although there are also night buses, covering 27 routes starting from Plaza de Cibeles. The bus company, EMT, has an iPhone and smartphone application to inform passengers of waiting times at the city's bus stops. Single metro/bus ticket: €1.50 - 2. www.esmadrid.com/en/transport-madrid and quicker way of seeing Madrid than by bike, along the city's rapidly growing network of cycle lanes. The bicycle lane on Calle Serrano and the Green Cycling Ring, which runs for 65 kilometres around the city, are especially good places to ride. TOURIST TRAVEL CARD Ideal for visitors keen to explore the city in their own way, it allows you to use all the transport services as many times as you like. The cost of a travel card for zone A (for use inside the city limits) is from 8 euros (1 day) to 33.40 euros (seven days). The travel card for zone T, covering a wider area, costs from 16 to 66.80 euros. PARKING Although it's best not to drive around the city centre, Madrid has a good number of public and private car parks. If you park in the street, bear in mind that parking is restricted from Monday to Friday between 9am and 8pm, and on Saturdays from 9am to 3pm. You will need to purchase a ticket (available from nearby parking meters) and the charge depends on how long you intend to stay and whether the www.esmadrid.com 173
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    www.madridcitytour.es Hop on Madrid’sopen-top bus 14 LANGUAGES. INDIVIDUAL HEADPHONES.
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    Las Rozas Village,where EXCEPTIONAL value is always in STYLE MORE THAN 100 BOUTIQUES TO DISCOVER Adolfo Dominguez, Bally, Burberry, Calvin Klein Jeans, Camper, Carolina Herrera Company Store, Desigual, Diesel, Escada Sport, Gant, G-Star Raw, Lacoste, La Perla, L’Occitane en Provence, Hackett, Hoss Intropia, Hugo Boss, Napapijri, Spazio Dolce & Gabbana, Swarovski, TCN, Versace Company Store and many more, with discounts of up to 60%* all year round. IF YOU LIKE FASHION, LET YOURSELF BE CARRIED AWAY ON OUR SHOPPING EXPRESS: www.LasRozasVillage.com/shoppingexpress LasRozasVillage.com ChicOutletShopping.com