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Foundation
Repair &
Maintenance
101
WHY, WHY,
WHY
• Why is foundation repair in Texas, but
more specifically North Texas, such a big
business?
• Why will the majority of homes in the
DFW area need some sort of “fix” during
their lifetime?
• Is there anything a homeowner can do
to prevent these costly issues?
SOILS OF
TEXAS
Terms to know
• Upland Soils
Soils above local water level
• Bottomland Soils
Soils below local water level
These terms will be important to understand when
looking at soil types
• http://www.texasalmanac.com/topics/environm
ent/soils-texas
Eastern Cross
Timbers Soil
Cuts straight through Denton, Tarrant, and
Johnson Counties
Is characterized by:
• The upland soils are mostly deep, light-
colored, slightly acid sandy loams and
loamy sands with reddish loamy or clayey
subsoils.
• Bottomland soils are reddish-brown to
dark gray, slightly acid to alkaline loams
or gray clays.
• Grassland consisting of native range and
improved pastures is the major land use.
Peanuts, grain sorghums, small grains,
peaches, pecans, and vegetables are
grown in some areas. Brush control,
water erosion, and low fertility are the
major soil concerns in management.
Grand Prairie
Soils
On the West side of the Eastern Cross Timbers
Soil region
Is characterized by:
• Upland soils are mostly dark-gray, alkaline
clays; some are shallow over limestone
and some are stony. Some areas have light-
colored loamy soils over chalky limestone.
• Bottomland soils along the Red and Brazos
rivers are reddish silt loams and clays.
Other bottomlands have dark-gray loams
and clays.
• Land use is a mixture of rangeland,
pastureland, and cropland. The area is
mainly used for growing beef cattle. Some
small grain, grain sorghums, corn, and hay
are grown. Brush control and water erosion
are the major management concerns.
Blackland
Prairie Soils
On the East side of the Eastern Cross Timbers Soil
region(Dallas & Collin county)
Is characterized by:
• Both upland and bottomland soils are deep, dark-
gray to black alkaline clays. Some soils in the
western part are shallow to moderately deep over
chalk. Some soils on the eastern edge are neutral to
slightly acid, grayish clays and loams over mottled
clay subsoils (sometimes called graylands).
Blackland soils are known as “cracking clays”
because of the large, deep cracks that form in dry
weather. This high shrink-swell property can cause
serious damage to foundations, highways, and
other structures and is a safety hazard in pits and
trenches.
• Land use is divided about equally between cropland
and grassland. Cotton, grain sorghums, corn, wheat,
oats, and hay are grown. Grassland is mostly
improved pastures, with native range on the
shallower and steeper soils. Water erosion, cotton
root rot, soil tilth, and brush control are the major
management problems.
Foundations:
What Kinds
Are There?
Concrete Foundations
• Slab-on-Grade(Slab)
• Has a perimeter
grade beam with
intersecting beams
and post tensions
cables
• Homes older
than mid 80’s
will most likely
not have these
cables
• Basement Foundations
• Home is built on a
basement
Pier & Beam
Foundations
Perimeter Beams
• Wood or concrete
Supports
• Pad & block,
sonotubes, drilled
piers, or bois d’arc
stumps
Understructure
• Wood-beams,
joists, and sill plate
mainly
Post-Tension
Slab on Grade
Perimeter grade beam
Internal grade beam
Pier & Beam
Foundations
Sonotube
Pad & Block
Beams
Joists
PlumbingSonotube
Pad & Block
Rebar Slab on Grade
Proper
Maintenance
Procedures
• Slab
• Pier & Beam
• Common Mistakes
Soil
Grade(Slope)
• Soil should be sloped away from the
foundation at about ¼” per foot.
• That is ideal but not always possible
with existing/older homes
Slab
Slab
• Soaker hoses are cheap and
effective
• 8-12 inches from home
• Above or below ground
• More water is needed during hot
and dry months
Slab
• Even trees far from the
home can affect the
foundation
• “drip line” can
indicate the reach
of the roots
• More water is needed
when trees are involved
Pier & Beam
• Follow all previous steps for yard
but…
• Keep water OUT from under the
house.
• Termites can be a nightmare as
well…
10 Common Mistakes
in Foundation Care
and Maintenance
10 Common
Mistakes…
1. Lack of moisture control
-Too little or too much water can cause soil
expansion and contraction. Moisture should be
maintained at consistent levels around your
home’s perimeter during all seasons. When
moisture differs around the foundation of the
home, shifting can happen causing foundation
problems.
2. Poor rain and run-off control
-Gutters and downspouts on a structure can help
control soil moisture levels and assist in a healthy
foundation. Downspout extensions, splash blocks
or underground piping also help direct rainwater
away from your foundation. Lack of these items
can lead to moisture imbalances and soil erosion.
10 Common
Mistakes…
3. Improper drainage
-Installing a drainage system alone isn’t enough to
ensure adequate moisture protection for your
foundation. A drainage system should slope away
from your foundation at an angle of three inches
for every five feet.
4. Sprinkler system waste
-Using directional sprinkler heads on a
conventional sprinkler system allows homeowners
to point the flow of water toward the foundation.
If a sprinkler with a hose is used, the type of
sprinkler that drops water on the ground is
preferred over one that sprays directly into the air
saving water.
10 Common
Mistakes…
5. Wind related water loss
-Even a slight breeze can disperse water away
from your foundation. If you have an automatic
sprinkler system make sure to change the timing if
it is visibly windy.
6. Watering when the sun is high
-The higher the temperature, the faster water
evaporates. Since the barometer reaches such
levels during the summer months in Texas, it is
best to water when the temperature is as cool as
possible, either early in the morning or late at
night.
10 Common
Mistakes…
7. Landscape water consumption
-Few homeowners realize the damage that can
happen to their foundation when the wrong plant
is in the wrong place. A single oak tree can
consume 100 gallons of water on a hot summer
day. Plants and landscaping should be done
keeping the foundation in mind.
8. Placing soaker hoses to close
-It is best to install soaker hoses at least 6 inches
away from the perimeter of your house and
buried about three inches into the ground.
Placing the hoses too close to the foundation can
cause water to over saturate the soil under the
foundation causing expansion of the soil and
foundation.
10 Common
Mistakes…
9. Believing rain is enough
-It is dry in Texas most of the year, so when it
rains, parched soil expands. When the ground
dries it contracts. Rain can create damage to your
foundation. Making sure to maintain moisture
after a rain can help.
10. Ignoring early warning signs
-Doors and windows that stick, or cracks in the
floor, ceiling or walls can be early signs of shifting
in the foundation. Having your foundation
evaluated early can save money and further
damage to your foundation.
Signs of
Foundation
Issues
What to look for
Exterior
signs of
problems
• Soil: too wet/dry
• Cracks
• Expansion joints
Exterior signs
of problems…
• Separations
• Expansion Joints
• Brick Cracks
• Cracks in walls
• Window Seperations
• Tile Cracks
• Sticking doors
• Sloping floors
Interior Signs of Problems
Doors not
closing?
Alternative
Solutions
• When major issues aren’t evident, these things can
sometimes correct minor issues given enough time…
• Most often related to moisture control
Proper
Watering
Programs
• There are many variables
to consider
• Time of year
• Type of soil
• Current weather
conditions
• I suggest a couple times a
week for a couple of
hours each…
• Whatever is possible
with current water
restrictions
Proper use of
gutters
• Extended away from
foundation
• At least a couple feet
• This picture is ideal but
very uncommon
Irrigation
systems
Surface Drains:
Water enters through
holes in pipe
after making its way
through the
gravel
French Drains:
Water enters through
catch
Root Barriers
80% of the root is in the top 2-3
feet
BE CAREFUL! If done incorrectly,
root barriers can cause major issues
Soil stabilizers
• What is it?
• Soil Stabilizers are an environmentally
friendly chemical soil stabilization product.
It is distributed in concentrated liquid form
and then mixed with water by a licensed
applicator or properly trained commercial
user. The user injects the solution into soil
to reduce or eliminate the swelling and
shrinking that commonly results when soil
with significant clay content becomes wet
and subsequently dries.
“Traditional”
Foundation Repair
A good repair solution should be based on science, and a basic
understanding of why the Home or Building has moved.
The Engineers Process…
• A good repair plan should, “..be based upon generally accepted engineering
practice and appropriate engineering calculations.”
• “Guidelines for the Evaluation and Repair of Residential Foundations”
Types of Repairing
Systems
Slab Foundations
Concrete
Pressed Pier
• Pros
• Most cost effective
• Good for most residential applications
• Cons
• Cannot be pushed as deep as steel piers
• Applications
• Useful in most residential applications
including pier and beams
• Can be cable locked
Double-Walled
Steel Pier
• Pros
• Strong and reliable
• Can be pushed very deep
• Cons
• More expensive than concrete
• Applications
• For large, heavy homes and commercial.
buildings, full underpins, certain soil conditions
• Should be filled with grout and anchored
Drilled Concrete
Piers
• Pros
• Least amount of strain on home
• Highly reliable
• Cons
• Expensive
• Requires two trips(1-2 weeks)
• Applications
• Pier & beam homes
• Certain soils
• When requested by engineer
Mud Jacking and
Void Filling
• Pros
• No large holes
• Cons
• Not widely available
• Can cause plumbing
issues if done incorrectly
• Applications
• Interior of slabs,
monolithic slabs,
parking lots, or simply
fill a void post lift
Pier & Beam
Foundations
Pad and Block
• Pros
• Less expensive
• Easy to install
• Cons
• Life is not as long as sonotubes
• Should not be stacked high
• Applications
• Pier & beam
• Small freestanding slabs (patios,
AC pads)
Sonotubes
• Pros
• Generally stronger than blocks
• Can be very tall
• Cons
• More expensive than blocks
• Requires two trips
• Applications
• Pier and beam foundations
The Repair Process
What should you expect?
Slab Foundations
Pre-installation
• Remove plants
• Place soil on tarps
• Keeps yard clean
• Concrete breakouts
Pressing the
Piers
• Holes
• Approx. 2x2x3
• Pressed piers
• Hydraulic press
• Drilled piers
• Auger
• Pushed to approx. 48,000 pounds of force
• Can vary depending on size of home
Leveling the Home
• Handjack to level
• Use cap and two cylinders
• Steel shims to make final adjustments
Pier & Beam
Foundations
Proper
Access is
Needed
Not only will the crew need to fit
under the home, so will all of
their equipment and materials
Framing(Understructure)
• Rotten/broken/ destroyed wood will all
need to be replaced
• Sometimes termite damage is not
evident until repairs are underway
Additional/Replacement
Supports?
• More supports may be needed or old
supports may need to be replaced
• Steel shims should always be used and
wood shims replaced with steel
A post-lift
plumbing test
should be done
after any lifts!!
Duct tape: it DOESN’T fix
everything
Selecting a Quality
Company
Questions to ask
Any quality company
should be able to
answer these Q’s
• Is your company insured?
• Are your crew members
contractors, day laborers, or
employees?
• Contractors and day
laborers may not have the
experience of full time
employees
• How long has your company
been in the foundation repair
business?(Warranty)
• Why is your plan the best
plan?
Any quality
company
should be
able to
answer these
Q’s
• What is your BBB rating?
• What type of soil do I have and what
does that mean?
• How long should the job take?
• What about clean-up when the job is
done?
• Is financing available?

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Foundation repair & maintenance 101 real estate

  • 2. WHY, WHY, WHY • Why is foundation repair in Texas, but more specifically North Texas, such a big business? • Why will the majority of homes in the DFW area need some sort of “fix” during their lifetime? • Is there anything a homeowner can do to prevent these costly issues?
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  • 4. SOILS OF TEXAS Terms to know • Upland Soils Soils above local water level • Bottomland Soils Soils below local water level These terms will be important to understand when looking at soil types • http://www.texasalmanac.com/topics/environm ent/soils-texas
  • 5. Eastern Cross Timbers Soil Cuts straight through Denton, Tarrant, and Johnson Counties Is characterized by: • The upland soils are mostly deep, light- colored, slightly acid sandy loams and loamy sands with reddish loamy or clayey subsoils. • Bottomland soils are reddish-brown to dark gray, slightly acid to alkaline loams or gray clays. • Grassland consisting of native range and improved pastures is the major land use. Peanuts, grain sorghums, small grains, peaches, pecans, and vegetables are grown in some areas. Brush control, water erosion, and low fertility are the major soil concerns in management.
  • 6. Grand Prairie Soils On the West side of the Eastern Cross Timbers Soil region Is characterized by: • Upland soils are mostly dark-gray, alkaline clays; some are shallow over limestone and some are stony. Some areas have light- colored loamy soils over chalky limestone. • Bottomland soils along the Red and Brazos rivers are reddish silt loams and clays. Other bottomlands have dark-gray loams and clays. • Land use is a mixture of rangeland, pastureland, and cropland. The area is mainly used for growing beef cattle. Some small grain, grain sorghums, corn, and hay are grown. Brush control and water erosion are the major management concerns.
  • 7. Blackland Prairie Soils On the East side of the Eastern Cross Timbers Soil region(Dallas & Collin county) Is characterized by: • Both upland and bottomland soils are deep, dark- gray to black alkaline clays. Some soils in the western part are shallow to moderately deep over chalk. Some soils on the eastern edge are neutral to slightly acid, grayish clays and loams over mottled clay subsoils (sometimes called graylands). Blackland soils are known as “cracking clays” because of the large, deep cracks that form in dry weather. This high shrink-swell property can cause serious damage to foundations, highways, and other structures and is a safety hazard in pits and trenches. • Land use is divided about equally between cropland and grassland. Cotton, grain sorghums, corn, wheat, oats, and hay are grown. Grassland is mostly improved pastures, with native range on the shallower and steeper soils. Water erosion, cotton root rot, soil tilth, and brush control are the major management problems.
  • 8. Foundations: What Kinds Are There? Concrete Foundations • Slab-on-Grade(Slab) • Has a perimeter grade beam with intersecting beams and post tensions cables • Homes older than mid 80’s will most likely not have these cables • Basement Foundations • Home is built on a basement Pier & Beam Foundations Perimeter Beams • Wood or concrete Supports • Pad & block, sonotubes, drilled piers, or bois d’arc stumps Understructure • Wood-beams, joists, and sill plate mainly
  • 9. Post-Tension Slab on Grade Perimeter grade beam Internal grade beam
  • 10. Pier & Beam Foundations Sonotube Pad & Block Beams Joists PlumbingSonotube Pad & Block
  • 11. Rebar Slab on Grade
  • 13. Soil Grade(Slope) • Soil should be sloped away from the foundation at about ¼” per foot. • That is ideal but not always possible with existing/older homes Slab
  • 14. Slab • Soaker hoses are cheap and effective • 8-12 inches from home • Above or below ground • More water is needed during hot and dry months
  • 15. Slab • Even trees far from the home can affect the foundation • “drip line” can indicate the reach of the roots • More water is needed when trees are involved
  • 16. Pier & Beam • Follow all previous steps for yard but… • Keep water OUT from under the house. • Termites can be a nightmare as well…
  • 17. 10 Common Mistakes in Foundation Care and Maintenance
  • 18. 10 Common Mistakes… 1. Lack of moisture control -Too little or too much water can cause soil expansion and contraction. Moisture should be maintained at consistent levels around your home’s perimeter during all seasons. When moisture differs around the foundation of the home, shifting can happen causing foundation problems. 2. Poor rain and run-off control -Gutters and downspouts on a structure can help control soil moisture levels and assist in a healthy foundation. Downspout extensions, splash blocks or underground piping also help direct rainwater away from your foundation. Lack of these items can lead to moisture imbalances and soil erosion.
  • 19. 10 Common Mistakes… 3. Improper drainage -Installing a drainage system alone isn’t enough to ensure adequate moisture protection for your foundation. A drainage system should slope away from your foundation at an angle of three inches for every five feet. 4. Sprinkler system waste -Using directional sprinkler heads on a conventional sprinkler system allows homeowners to point the flow of water toward the foundation. If a sprinkler with a hose is used, the type of sprinkler that drops water on the ground is preferred over one that sprays directly into the air saving water.
  • 20. 10 Common Mistakes… 5. Wind related water loss -Even a slight breeze can disperse water away from your foundation. If you have an automatic sprinkler system make sure to change the timing if it is visibly windy. 6. Watering when the sun is high -The higher the temperature, the faster water evaporates. Since the barometer reaches such levels during the summer months in Texas, it is best to water when the temperature is as cool as possible, either early in the morning or late at night.
  • 21. 10 Common Mistakes… 7. Landscape water consumption -Few homeowners realize the damage that can happen to their foundation when the wrong plant is in the wrong place. A single oak tree can consume 100 gallons of water on a hot summer day. Plants and landscaping should be done keeping the foundation in mind. 8. Placing soaker hoses to close -It is best to install soaker hoses at least 6 inches away from the perimeter of your house and buried about three inches into the ground. Placing the hoses too close to the foundation can cause water to over saturate the soil under the foundation causing expansion of the soil and foundation.
  • 22. 10 Common Mistakes… 9. Believing rain is enough -It is dry in Texas most of the year, so when it rains, parched soil expands. When the ground dries it contracts. Rain can create damage to your foundation. Making sure to maintain moisture after a rain can help. 10. Ignoring early warning signs -Doors and windows that stick, or cracks in the floor, ceiling or walls can be early signs of shifting in the foundation. Having your foundation evaluated early can save money and further damage to your foundation.
  • 24. Exterior signs of problems • Soil: too wet/dry • Cracks • Expansion joints
  • 25. Exterior signs of problems… • Separations • Expansion Joints • Brick Cracks
  • 26. • Cracks in walls • Window Seperations • Tile Cracks • Sticking doors • Sloping floors Interior Signs of Problems
  • 28. Alternative Solutions • When major issues aren’t evident, these things can sometimes correct minor issues given enough time… • Most often related to moisture control
  • 29. Proper Watering Programs • There are many variables to consider • Time of year • Type of soil • Current weather conditions • I suggest a couple times a week for a couple of hours each… • Whatever is possible with current water restrictions
  • 30. Proper use of gutters • Extended away from foundation • At least a couple feet • This picture is ideal but very uncommon
  • 31. Irrigation systems Surface Drains: Water enters through holes in pipe after making its way through the gravel French Drains: Water enters through catch
  • 32. Root Barriers 80% of the root is in the top 2-3 feet BE CAREFUL! If done incorrectly, root barriers can cause major issues
  • 33. Soil stabilizers • What is it? • Soil Stabilizers are an environmentally friendly chemical soil stabilization product. It is distributed in concentrated liquid form and then mixed with water by a licensed applicator or properly trained commercial user. The user injects the solution into soil to reduce or eliminate the swelling and shrinking that commonly results when soil with significant clay content becomes wet and subsequently dries.
  • 34. “Traditional” Foundation Repair A good repair solution should be based on science, and a basic understanding of why the Home or Building has moved.
  • 35. The Engineers Process… • A good repair plan should, “..be based upon generally accepted engineering practice and appropriate engineering calculations.” • “Guidelines for the Evaluation and Repair of Residential Foundations”
  • 38. Concrete Pressed Pier • Pros • Most cost effective • Good for most residential applications • Cons • Cannot be pushed as deep as steel piers • Applications • Useful in most residential applications including pier and beams • Can be cable locked
  • 39. Double-Walled Steel Pier • Pros • Strong and reliable • Can be pushed very deep • Cons • More expensive than concrete • Applications • For large, heavy homes and commercial. buildings, full underpins, certain soil conditions • Should be filled with grout and anchored
  • 40. Drilled Concrete Piers • Pros • Least amount of strain on home • Highly reliable • Cons • Expensive • Requires two trips(1-2 weeks) • Applications • Pier & beam homes • Certain soils • When requested by engineer
  • 41. Mud Jacking and Void Filling • Pros • No large holes • Cons • Not widely available • Can cause plumbing issues if done incorrectly • Applications • Interior of slabs, monolithic slabs, parking lots, or simply fill a void post lift
  • 43. Pad and Block • Pros • Less expensive • Easy to install • Cons • Life is not as long as sonotubes • Should not be stacked high • Applications • Pier & beam • Small freestanding slabs (patios, AC pads)
  • 44. Sonotubes • Pros • Generally stronger than blocks • Can be very tall • Cons • More expensive than blocks • Requires two trips • Applications • Pier and beam foundations
  • 45. The Repair Process What should you expect?
  • 47. Pre-installation • Remove plants • Place soil on tarps • Keeps yard clean • Concrete breakouts
  • 48. Pressing the Piers • Holes • Approx. 2x2x3 • Pressed piers • Hydraulic press • Drilled piers • Auger • Pushed to approx. 48,000 pounds of force • Can vary depending on size of home
  • 49. Leveling the Home • Handjack to level • Use cap and two cylinders • Steel shims to make final adjustments
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  • 53. Proper Access is Needed Not only will the crew need to fit under the home, so will all of their equipment and materials
  • 54. Framing(Understructure) • Rotten/broken/ destroyed wood will all need to be replaced • Sometimes termite damage is not evident until repairs are underway
  • 55. Additional/Replacement Supports? • More supports may be needed or old supports may need to be replaced • Steel shims should always be used and wood shims replaced with steel
  • 56. A post-lift plumbing test should be done after any lifts!! Duct tape: it DOESN’T fix everything
  • 58. Any quality company should be able to answer these Q’s • Is your company insured? • Are your crew members contractors, day laborers, or employees? • Contractors and day laborers may not have the experience of full time employees • How long has your company been in the foundation repair business?(Warranty) • Why is your plan the best plan?
  • 59. Any quality company should be able to answer these Q’s • What is your BBB rating? • What type of soil do I have and what does that mean? • How long should the job take? • What about clean-up when the job is done? • Is financing available?