SlideShare a Scribd company logo
1 of 42
Download to read offline
Table Of Contents.
!
!
Introduction.
____________________________________________________________________________1-3
!
Chapter 1: Understanding gender identity, the influence society holds and universal masculinity.
____________________________________________________________________________4-7
!
Chapter 2: The influence of gay subculture, popular culture and androgyny.
___________________________________________________________________________8-13
!
Chapter 3: JW Anderson, the future for gender boundaries and social questionnaire.
__________________________________________________________________________14-18
!
Conclusion.
__________________________________________________________________________24-26
!
List of Illustrations.
____________________________________________________________________________27
!
Bibliography.
__________________________________________________________________________28-29
!
Appendices 1
__________________________________________________________________________30-32
!
Appendices 2
__________________________________________________________________________33-41
!
Page of1 42
Introduction
‘Splicing and dicing the DNA of menswear and womenswear is a standing preoccupation for
Jonathan Anderson. At first it started mainly in the fabrication of garments; the gendered codes and
connotations that linked and divided the sexes through cloth have been repeated motifs. Yet there
were always hints of more to come, and now the experiment has culminated in both the materials
and silhouettes of his Fall collection. The effeminacy of this collection—a kind of put-together
sixties jolie madame made into a twisted jolie monsieur; think Séverine in Belle de Jour crossed
with some of her kinky fantasy coachmen—is intended to reconfigure both menswear and
womenswear, and to give a kick up the arse to the stale state of much of men's fashion at the
moment.’ (Furniss, 2013).
The 2013 menswear collection by young designer JW Anderson was a primary source of
inspiration for the themes discussed in this paper. The review of the collection by reporter Jo-Ann
Furniss for the established online publication style.com, raised interesting points about both the
collection itself and the direction of men’s fashion today. The key idea of the reconfiguration of
menswear and womenswear is vital to consider when discussing topics relevant to this subject area
and the collection in question provides an interesting starting point when it comes to discussing
changes within the menswear fashion industry.
When referring to ‘the fashion industry’ the majority of society tend to associate the idea
with women and femininity and ‘fashion’ as a whole is rarely considered a masculine subject area.
This is due to preconceived ideas on what is considered masculine and feminine and the impact that
society and gender construction has on the way we consider certain things. The terms ‘masculine’
and ‘feminine’ are merely words that have been constructed by society to separate the sexes and do
not represent the alteration of biological sex. This paper aims to challenge ideas of masculinity and
femininity with regards to the fashion industry, and looks to consider the growing elements of
womenswear within menswear fashion collections. This paper will look at how society is reacting
Page of2 42
to these changes and will take into consideration the future for menswear fashion. In order to
develop an in-depth argument of this topic, various relevant subject areas have been looked in to.
Chapter one will focus on ideas of gender identity and the influence that society has on the
way gender is constructed and portrayed. Ideas of men dressing for comfort, conformity and social
status will also be explored. What was considered masculine for men and what were the reasons for
this? Books such as Material Strategies: Dress and Gender in Historical Perspective by Barbara
Burman (2003), Fashion and its Social Agendas by Diana Crane (2000) have been considered with
regards to men wearing ‘the business suit’ in order to portray masculinity and conformity. These
sources will give insight into the reasons why men chose to conform like this and what made them
scared or unable to push the boundaries of what is considered masculine. Books such as Men and
Women: Dressing the Part by Claudia Kidwell and Valerie Steele (1989) and Gender Trouble by
Judith Butler (1990) have been evaluated to gain knowledge on what it means to be a man and what
it means to be a woman. These ideas will be compared to help understand perceptions regarding
gender identity. These sources as well as Body Dressing: Dress, Body, Culture by Joanne Entwistle
and Elizabeth B. Wilson (2001) will pick apart these concepts to determine why the rules could be
considered different for each sex.
Chapter two will begin by exploring ideas of androgyny as a concept. An important point
will be raised with regard to the true meaning of the word androgyny and it will be questioned if
this word is still used in its correct context or does the word now take on a different meaning. The
Fashioned Body by Joanne Entwistle (2000) will raise points on this subject area and the influences
the term androgyny may have on fashion today. Books such as Fashion and its Social Agendas by
Diana Crane (2000) and Queer Style by Adam Geczy (2013) are considered to gather information
on gay subculture with regards to dress, ideas around gender bending and the impact this has on the
‘masculine’ identity. These sources as well as The Face of Fashion: cultural studies in fashion by
Jennifer Craik (2003) will explore ideas of men becoming slightly more adventurous during the
Page of3 42
1970’s and 1980’s and the reasons for this change will be considered and discussed. Influences from
popular culture will also be discussed within this chapter with a focus on men in the spotlight and
the idea of these male figures being able to push the boundaries without ridicule or a change in
public perception of them.
The final chapter will discuss points raised in both chapters one and two and will consider
how these elements have altered menswear fashion in present day. A questionnaire has been carried
out with a focus on the J W Anderson collection that inspired this paper in order to determine what
perceptions on gender and fashion are today in relation to the blurring of gender identity
boundaries. Arguments will be raised with regards to these boundaries and questions such as how
far is too far? and will there be time when these boundaries no longer exist? will be considered.
Questions about where menswear fashion will progress in the future will be a key focus within this
chapter and a discussion of elements within the previous two chapters will be vital in answering
this.
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
Page of4 42
Chapter 1: Understanding gender identity, the influence society holds and universal
masculinity.
!
To understand the boundaries surrounding gender identity and to gain an insight into the
blurring of boundaries it is first important to gain knowledge on fashion with regards to gender and
to study the reasons for men dressing the way they do. In the book The Image of Man: The Creation
of Modern Masculinity by George Lachmann Mosse (1998) ideas of gender identity with regards to
masculinity are commented on. The author writes that ‘modern masculinity was a
stereotype’ (Mosse, 1998:5) and that ‘stereotypes objectify human nature, making it easy to
understand at a glance and to pass judgement.’ (Mosse, 1998:5). Ideas surrounding masculinity are
constructed by society in order to make separation of the sexes easier to understand and identify.
The idea that a specific stereotype has been created, in this instance the idea of ‘masculinity’ and
‘femininity’, adds a sense of pressure for a man to appear masculine and a woman to appear
feminine in order to avoid judgement from society. It is vital to explore the reasons behind what
society considers ‘masculine’ to understand how men both perceive masculinity and portray it
through the way they dress. ‘The stereotype of masculinity was conceived as a totality based upon
the nature of a man’s body’ (Mosse, 1998:5) Mosse raises an interesting point that masculinity is
primarily identified by physical appearance rather than a person’s biological sex. It is important to
consider here what society deems masculine before trying to understand what fashions are
considered masculine as a result. In the book Fashion And it’s Social Agendas ‘by Diana Crane it is
said that ‘‘Contemporary masculinity as expressed in the media has four principle features: (1)
Physical power and control that are identified with the male body, (2) Hetrosexuality, (3)
Occupational achievement in jobs that are identified as ‘mens work’, and (4) A patriarchal family
role’ (Crane, 2000:179). The four key points described here could be seen as a set of rules for the
man when trying to portray a successful ‘masculine’ image. Men falling into the above categories
Page of5 42
will in turn be considered masculine by society so it is apparent that men would dress to conform to
these rules. Particular character traits such as being trustworthy or serious about business emerge
from trying to conform to these rules. ‘Simplicity in dress indicated that a man could be trusted, the
he was serious, and that he meant business. It also meant that he was unlike a woman’ (Burman and
Turbin, 2002:58). With the idea of men being the stronger and more serious sex, the ones who went
out to earn a living, it makes sense that society would want the man to dress to portray this image.
Simplicity in dress is used to show and idea of trust and assures society that a man can be relied on
so an attempt to blur these symbols through alteration of masculine ideals could be seen as
untrustworthy or un-reliable, thus making society question the man’s intentions. As well as
signifying reliability, the way a man dresses is also used to signify social status. ‘The equation of
fashion with women and the exclusion of men is historically and culturally specific, stemming from
nineteenth-century Victorian and European notions of etiquette, gender relations, and
sexuality’ (Craik, 1994:176). It has been seen that fashion is a women’s industry and should
primarily be made and consumed by women. Men were seen to be the hard-workers and the
providers and women were seen as a kind of decoration, there to look attractive. This point leads
back to the idea of dress being used to distinguish the man from the women in all social aspects.
‘These ides proposed a radical split between genders and assigned each of them specific roles and
locations.. An index of this order of sexual division was the continuous recreation of dress
codes’ (Craik, 1994:176) These ideas or boundaries surrounding sexual diversion have since been
used as a base for stereotypical dress codes and again could be seen to add pressure to the sexes to
dress in a way deemed appropriate for their sex. ‘Our beliefs about how men and women should
look are part of a powerful, complex, and pervading system of values about what is appropriate
male and female behaviour’ (Kidwell and Steele: 1989:144). The systems surrounding the way
society considers dress and appropriate behaviour for the man and the woman are deep rooted and
Page of6 42
powerful, there first needs to be a change within this system before gender boundaries can be fully
explored and possibly eliminated.
An important movement to discuss within the male fashion industry is the rise of the
business suit. The suit was seen as an ideal garment to portray a masculine image and played a key
part in men conforming to gender identity ideals. This movement could explain the reasons why
men wanted to conform and could bring to light reasons why some men would want to rebel from
the norm. The idea of the business suit was also seen as a symbol for universal masculinity and
spreads across various countries and social hierarchies. In Material Strategies: Dress and Gender in
Historical Perspective by Barbara Burman and Carole Turbin it is said that ‘by the outbreak of the
second world war, the majority of British men of all social groups wore a suit for many
occasions’ (Burman and Turbin, 2002:56). This is seen as the beginning of the rise of the suit and
enabled men of different social status to appear the same. The suit became a key item in the man’s
wardrobe and could be worn for any occasion. ‘(the suit) was for several decades a symbol of mass
male dress’ (Burman and Turbin, 2002:57). The idea that the suit could be worn by any man meant
that it became a symbol for male dress and was used as a garment to identify the man from the
woman, thus making it into a sort of uniform for the man. The popularity of the suit could have
been down to the image it represented. The suit was ‘undoubtedly a sensible look - in contrast to
earlier forms of male dress - was relevant to the contemporary making of masculinity, the key
features of which were respectability, rationality, sobriety and diligence’ (Honeyman, 2002:58-76).
The suit signified ideas that were considered masculine by society as discussed previously. Men
wanted to be seen as respectful and reliable within society and the suit was a perfect way to portray
this. Men wanted to maintain traditional values of masculinity and the ‘sensible look’ (Honeyman,
2002:56-76) of the suit provided this.
The adoption of the suit by men everywhere meant that men could create an identity for
themselves that reflect social ideals, in a way concealing their true identities and creating new
Page of7 42
personas that would be accepted. ‘The suit is beginning to be perceived as a uniform which
conceals a persons identity, rather than a costume which reveals it’ (Crane, 2000:174). Men did not
concern themselves with dressing to express their own identity but instead they could dress in this
newly constructed male uniform without ridicule from society. If a man was wearing a suit, the
immediate response would be that this man was masculine and respectable, something that men at
the time thought was socially acceptable. This meant that ‘Men came to resemble one another,
which was exactly what they wanted’ (Honeyman, 2002:56-57). If a man resembled other men, they
would be seen as normal. This raises the question of men wanting to conform to this idea of
masculinity, did they actually want to do this or were they too reluctant to deviate from the norm
and experiment with styles of dress? ‘Many men are reluctant to project an image that deviates from
the norms’ (Crane, 2000:179). Men could be hiding behind the image of the suit due to their fear of
experimentation and again fear of ridicule from society. If the suit is considered to be a staple for
masculinity, it is important to think about how far the suit can be altered before it is then considered
un-masculine. In the book Body Dressing: Dress, Body, Culture by Joanne Entwistle and Elizabeth
B. Wilson (2001) two images are presented of radical variations of the suit.
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
Page of8 42
Fig. 1. Fig. 2.
Fig. 1. and Fig. 2. show the ‘half suit’ and the ‘one shoulder shirt’ from Phillip Garner’s Better
Living catalogue in 1982. When discussing these images the author writes ’Consider why the
images of a man in an off-the shoulder dress shirt or a lounge suit with an exposed midriff are
humorous’ (Entwistle and Wilson, 2000:247). With the authors comment in mind it is important to
consider why slight alterations to a garment considered highly masculine can drastically change
society’s perception of it. Exposed midriffs and one shoulder garments are primarily considered
feminine, combining these with something such as the suit ultimately takes away the masculinity
and society rejects it as a masculine staple. What is important to consider here, especially with
regard to the ‘half suit’, is that the key elements of the traditional suit are present. A strong lapel and
broad shoulders are fundamental when portraying masculinity through the wearing of a suit so why
is this particular variation considered less normal or less masculine than the traditional?
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
Page of9 42
Chapter 2: The influence of gay subculture and popular culture and true androgyny.
!
After pointing out the social influence that society has on masculinity and the masculine
staple, the suit, it is now important to discuss influences from gay subcultures and popular culture
as well as ideas surrounding the term androgyny. The influences of these cultures is closely related
to the previous ideas of social influence on gender identity because a change in the views of society
could have been a key reason behind the rise of these cultures and the influence they have had on
not just the menswear fashion industry but male dress as a whole. This subject area could be
considered the most important with regard to this paper as these cultures have probably influenced
the industry the most in terms of gender boundary blurring. These influences have pushed the
industry to become more experimental and could see the elimination of gender boundaries all
together in the future.
A key theme to discuss here is the social change and the rise of the gay subcultures that
emerged in the late 1960’s and 1970’s and the series of influences that progressed from these. In the
book The Face of Fashion: Cultural Studies In Fashion by Jennifer Craik (2003) it is raised that
‘new themes appeared in the 1970’s such gender subversion’’ (Craik, 2003:185) . These themes
saw a shift in social perception with regard to gender and society became more open-minded and
experimental. This change enabled an open minded attitude towards gay culture and allowed
aspects of the culture to flourish. ’Gay subcultures were able to flourish more openly in Europe and
the United States. Members of these subcultures questioned existing definitions of masculinity and
femininity and experimented with gender identities’ (Craik, 2003: 193). The experimentation with
these gender identities sparked a cultural change and led society as whole to question these
predetermined gender identity rules. The term ‘homosexual’ was now not used purely to define
sexual orientation but it was a representation of a certain lifestyle. ’To be homosexual, lesbian,
queer is a recent phenomenon whose social identity is built more on a way of life - mores,
Page of10 42
mannerisms and clothes - than on an isolated act’ (Geczy, 2013: 13). In the past these terms would
be used to define the sexual preference of a person but as times were changing, society now saw
these terms as a descriptive for the way people of this culture dressed and lived their life and this
influenced the fashion industry a great deal. This would progress into the 1990’s and ’’Members of
gay subcultures become tastemakers for the rest of the population, popularising products, clothes,
and haircuts’ (Crane, 2000: 194). A key example of this is the 1995 advertisements for Jean Paul
Gaultier’s male fragrance ‘le male’.
Fig. 3. shows the 1995 fragrance advertisement in question. The important thing to point out here is
that this advertisement is not purely aimed at gay men although there are strong symbolic gay
references and although society may consider the gay man to be un-masculine this may not be the
case. The idea of two men appearing in the advertisement with little clothing is vital to discuss here
as this deviated from usual marketing techniques used within the media and previous ‘rules’ for
masculinity. As mentioned above, ’Contemporary masculinity as expressed in the media has four
principle features: (1) Physical power and control that are identified with the male body, (2)
Hetrosexuality, (3) Occupational achievement in jobs that are identified as ‘mens work’, and (4) A
patriarchal family role’’ (Crane, 2000:179). In order to understand these rules it is important to
Page of11 42
Fig. 3.
discuss each one separately to understand if the advertisement in question varied from what was
considered normal at the time or in fact represented the rules of masculinity discussed above even
though society may disagree. The first example, ‘physical power and control that are identified with
the male body’ (Crane, 2000:179), brings to attention ideas that to be masculine a man must express
physical power and control. It could be argued that this advertisement represents this ‘rule’ and
could still be considered highly masculine due to the muscular physics on display and a feeling of
strength and power which is portrayed through the arm wrestle taking place between the models
even though there are ‘gay’ connotations, for example the sailor uniforms. The second example to
discuss, ‘hetrosexuality’ (Crane, 2000:179), is interesting because this advertisement could be
considered highly homosexual but highly masculine at the same time. The gay connotations such as
the sailor uniforms combined with representation of physical strength raises the point that
homosexuals and men belonging to gay subcultures still poses a masculine image and sexual
orientation, or in this case the clothing, does not have any effect on this. The third example of how
masculinity was expressed in the media is ‘occupational achievement in jobs that are identified as
‘men’s work’.’ (Crane, 2000:179). When referring to the advert in question it is apparent that the
models are sailors. This in itself could be considered ‘men’s work’ due to the labouring required and
the sailor uniform, something which has now become symbolic for gay cultures, does not alter this
fact. A point to consider here is that the clothing in which a man wears, whether considered
feminine or not, does not alter the man’s masculinity and should therefore not be brought into
question by society. The final example refers to a man being considered masculine is they poses ‘a
patriarchal family role’ (Crane, 2000:179). This example, although not referenced in the
advertisement in question is important to consider. A man does not have to necessarily follow
predetermined ideas of masculinity in order to have a successful family life and the way a man
dresses would have little or no effect on the people they surround themselves with.
Page of12 42
This advert, when looked at in depth, in-fact follows the ‘rules’ outlined above with regard
to advertising masculinity but does it in an experimental way with an attempt to both follow and
break ideals of masculinity. Although there are combinations of what is considered masculine and
feminine the advert still appeals to both straight and gay males. This could indicate that perceptions
on gender identity have progressed somewhat in the sense that these advertisement rules are now
being played with and some-what altered. The rise of gay subculture and the acceptance of this
from society could be the main reason for this change. Men were now experimenting with different
ideals of masculinity and new forms of expressing this were being explored.
A rise in gay subculture also lead to other forms of experimentation with gender and dress
during this period. Experimentation with cross dressing and gender play, especially within popular
culture was now at the forefront of society and aspects from this are still recognised within male
fashion today. ‘The burring of gender and sexual boundaries had become prevalent across a range of
entertainment mediums, from fashion catwalks to pop music, especially the so-called New
Romantics’ (Geczy, 2013: 37). Musicians such as David Bowie were noted for their ‘transvestite
image, with dress, and eye make-up’ (Crane, 2000:186). These musicians were the first, it appears,
to challenge gender boundaries within popular culture as they experimented publicly with products
that were previously described as ‘feminine’. ‘Popular English and American entertainers of the
1980s such as David Bowie questioned perceived notions of masculinity’ (Mosse, 1998:186).
To gain an insight into the progression of these themes It is also important to look at present
day examples of this. It is evident that popular culture icons from the 1980’s have had an influence
on present day fashion. Musicians such as rapper Kanye West have been known to adopt more
feminine styles of dress, albeit not as drastic of those from the 1980s, whilst still maintaining an
undoubtably masculine persona. See Fig.4 and Fig. 5:
!
!
Page of13 42
!
Fig. 4 and Fig. 5 show images of rapper Kanye West performing on tour. The images show the
rapper wearing a leather skirt, something which would primarily be considered as feminine. What is
important here is the idea that the wearing of this garment does not make us question the artist’s
gender or masculinity but instead it makes us consider that he is making a statement and merely
showing an interest in high fashion. In this instance it is clear that the artist will still be considered
masculine due to characteristics and persona and they way he chooses to dress himself has little
impact on this. Adaptation of these more feminine styles and the people who experiment with these
is key when answering the questions raised in this paper. It is vital here to consider that these
popular culture icons are challenging ideals of masculinity and are dressing in un-conventional
ways but are still regarded as masculine figures. In order to make a broad argument it is important
to consider if these changes exist primarily in popular culture of if the average man shares this
experimentation. Adam Geczy, author of the book Queer Style makes an important comment when
discussing this new experimentation with gender bending. ‘’In many contemporary societies,
individuals exhibiting non-normative or transgressive gender behaviours and identities may be
treated with ridicule, fear and/or disrespect’’ (Geczy, 2013:123). What is vital to consider here are
the reasons why experimentation in this way is acceptable for icons in the public eye but could be
Page of14 42
Fig. 4. Fig.5.
considered un-natural to the average male in society. If perceptions were changing though out
entertainment outlets then why would they be different in the city streets?. It was discussed in
chapter one that reasoning for the rise of the business suit could have been down to many men being
‘reluctant to project an image that deviates from the norms’ (Crane, 2000:179). It raises the point
that these icons in the public eye may not considered normal people within society and thus are
protected from being ridiculed for experimenting with these styles. What comes to mind here is the
idea that although there has been notable change surrounding gender boundaries, it simply exists
within the media and entertainment outlets such as fashion catwalks and does not apply to the
average male on the street.
Something which is very important in the images of the artist above is his adoption of a
garment, the skirt, which is or was considered highly feminine. ‘’In western cultures, the
popularisation of ‘women’s’ dress fro men, via a garment such as the ‘skirt’, would constitute a
significant re-alignment of categories of gender and clothing’’ (Craik, 1994:203). Influences
discussed above now inspired high-end designers to experiment with more radical styles and Kanye
West wearing a Givenchy skirt as pictured above is a key example of this. This raises interesting
points with regard to androgynous or unisex dress and it is now important to discuss the term
androgyny to determine the terms actually definition vs it’s newly constructed definition. In the
Collins dictionary the term androgyny is defined as ‘having male and female characteristics;
hermaphrodite’ (Collins Dictionaries, 2015). It is first important to point out that ‘hermaphrodite’
refers to biological sex and the actual body of a person, it does not refer to the way in which a
person dresses or displays themselves. It has become apparent that in present day cultures, the term
androgyny is used to describe something that may appear as both masculine and feminine but in-
fact is not. An adoption of this word by the fashion industry has now meant that the word has taken
on a new, almost cooler meaning and the true identity of the word has been lost. The skirt is a key
example of a garment that signifies a certain gender and ’The crudest example of this is evident in
Page of15 42
the icons used to distinguish male and female public lavatories, which almost invariably show men
in bifurcated garments and women in a skirt’ (Entwistle, 141:2000). If these symbols were altered
or for instance a male wore a skirt it would most likely be described by society as androgynous.
After determining the true meaning of the term it becomes clear that this term is still a descriptive of
gender difference. If gender boundaries were extinct there would be no need to use this term to
describe when a gender adopts a garment deemed appropriate for the opposite gender.
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
Page of16 42
Chapter Three:- JW Anderson and The Future For Gender Boundaries.
!
For the concluding chapter of this paper it is important to discuss the key inspiration for this
paper and the future of the menswear fashion industry after taking into consideration the influences
discussed previously. As discussed in the introductory paragraph the work of emerging menswear
designer JW Anderson is the key inspiration for the topics being discussed here particularly his A/W
2013 collection. JW Anderson is a key designer with regards to this topic and his work challenges
gender boundaries with an aim to shock the audience. In the previous chapter the term androgyny
was looked considered with a focus on the correct definition and the newly fashionable description
of the word. This collection, by many, has been described as an androgynous collection so it is
important to study this collection to both gain knowledge on society’s views and to determine if
gender boundaries are really becoming extinct. Fig. 6, 7, 8 and 9 show examples of the collection in
question.
!
!
!
!
!
!
Page of17 42
Fig. 6 JW Anderson A/W13: Look 23 Fig.7 JW Anderson A/W13: Look 35
Fig.8 JW Anderson A/W13: Look 7 Fig.9 JW Anderson A/W13: Look 20
At first glance, it is clear that this collection is a play on traditional ideals of gender identity.
As seen in Figs 5 and 6 there is a play here with the idea of the man wearing a suit. In both of these
images traditional suit styles and fabrics have been used but have undeniable feminine elements.
This refers back to the point discussed above when considering how far the suit can be altered
before it no longer represents a masculine image. The idea of a tailoring fabric and a suit jacket
being used in the forms of a dress plays with this idea and raises questions about the garments
masculinity, it is important here to consider points raised above that this would not alter the
masculinity of the male wearing the garments. As well as playing with the idea of the suit, it is also
important here to look at the wearing of a dress for the man. Although the garments in Figs 3 and 4
are, on first glance, considered to be for women the masculine attributes of the male body, such as
the arms and shoulders are on show and could in turn make these garments appear very masculine.
In order to fully study the collection it is important to look at reactions and reviews of this
collection by both fashion industry insiders and the general public. It is vital to study fashion
reviews as well as reactions from the average person on the street as a person who is knowledgeable
about fashion may view the collection in a slightly different way than a person who does not.
Jessica Bumpus, a writer for Vogue.com, wrote that ‘Anderson loves to subvert and push and blur
the boundaries when it comes to that menswear-womenswear, womenswear-to-menswear
aesthetic’ (Bumpus, 2013) describing the collection as ‘interesting, clever, captivating and
new.’ (Bumpus, 2013). This is an interesting reaction and attention must be paid to the fact that this
writer is a fashion writer so various aspects of the collection will be reviewed rather than it’s pure
shock value. As quoted above Jo-Ann Furniss, a writer for Style.com, says the collection is
‘intended to reconfigure both menswear and womenswear, and to give a kick up the arse to the stale
state of much of men's fashion at the moment.’ (Furniss, 2013). Both reporters appear to have
positive reactions to the collection, making a point that this is something that the menswear industry
needed and implying that current menswear is in a ‘stale state’ (Furniss, 2013). It is important to
Page of18 42
understand that fashion insiders review collections in more depth than the average person, and that
these reporters applaud designers for producing something interesting and fresh no matter how
shocking the garments may appear to the general public. What is also important to remember is that
websites such as Style.com and vogue have very fashion orientated audiences and may not appeal to
a wide range of people. These reviews must be compared against reactions from the general public
as these reactions will be vital when discussing the future of menswear fashion from societies
perspective. An article by Murray Healy in the online version of the newspaper The Guardian raises
some interesting points about the collection and comments from the readers help to understand
reactions from the general public. As this publication is not primarily about fashion the comments
are from a broad range of people and are not just focused within the fashion industry. Healy writes
that ‘elements from womenswear were grafted in with an uncompromising bluntness that
emasculated the male models’ (Healy, 2013). Although the author appears to have good reactions to
the collection this statement is interesting because the word ‘emasculated’ (Healy, 2013) is used.
The author is stating that the feminine elements are somehow making the models less masculine
which is not the case. As discussed in chapters one and two, the clothing a person wears does not in-
fact alter how masculine or feminine they are. What is important and of use from this article is the
reader comments located below. A key theme from these comments appears to be that the collection
is bad with one reader writing ‘This is fashion? Looks to me like a load of shit. I mean men just
ain't gonna wear this crap, and I really don't think women are either’ (Cheveguara, 2013) and
another writing ‘Next time I want to get beaten-up, I'll buy one of Mr. Anderson's creations. (or a
copy - not wanting to get blood stains on the overpriced tat’ (1649, 2013). Both of these reactions
are very important to study as both come from average people within society so reflect a more
general view than that from people within the fashion industry. The commenter 1649 implies that if
he were to wear these garments he would in-fact get ‘beaten-up’ (1649, 2013) suggesting that the
garments in question would not be accepted by the rest of society and would put him in a position
Page of19 42
where he would be ridiculed. The title of the article in question is ‘The radical unisex designs of JW
Anderson’ (Healy, 2013). The word ‘unisex’ is generally used to describe something which is for
both the male and the female. It is important that the word is used to describe this collection as it is
not in-fact intended to be worn by women at all and was primarily designed as menswear. With
regard to this point one commenter wrote ‘Unisex . . . if you want to look like a complete
prat’ (Myopicus, 2013) with one replying with the comment ‘@Myopicus - unisex yes, but only if
you wish to look like a poorly dressed woman…’ (Santinox, 2013). Both responses rebel against the
idea that this collection could be unisex and imply that this collection should be worn by women
and not men. This relates back to the idea of women adopting men’s styles being more socially
acceptable than men adopting feminine styles.
In order to gain a broader understanding of social perceptions on both the menswear fashion
industry and the JW Anderson collection in question, a questionnaire was carried out (see appendix
1 & 2 for full survey and responses). Responses were collected from 45 people of both genders,
various ages and different professional backgrounds. The questionnaire named The Menswear
Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions asked respondents various questions
regarding the JW Anderson collection and also touched on masculinity with an aim to understand
reactions from society regarding play with gender dress codes. Before collecting responses on the
collection it is first important to understand societies understanding of the word masculinity.
Question two asked the respondents what words came to mind when thinking about the word
‘’masculine’’ and how would they define masculinity. A key theme from this question relates to the
physical strength of a person, generally focusing on the man’s body. One respondent wrote
‘’Muscles, able to lift heavy objects, loud, boastful, strong’' (#3, 2014) and another wrote ‘’Macho,
manly, strong, assertive, strong jaw, rugged, bold, powerful, stallion’’ (#12, 2014). Many of the
answers listed here refer specifically to physical appearance and it appears that the respondents
associate masculinity with physical strength rather than biological sex. It is important to note that
Page of20 42
the respondents had not initially pointed out that to be masculine is to be male gendered. If society
deems masculinity to reflect physical strength it could have an impact on the way they view
menswear fashion and how they associate dress with the male body. It was then asked if the way we
dress defines the man or the woman, which is important to this particular study as it could provide
answers on how far gender boundaries have or can be pushed. The majority of the 45 people asked
responded with yes answers and explained that dress does in-fact define the man or the woman.
Some respondents however, raised an interesting point that this is only because of societies
perceptions with one respondent commenting that ‘It has an impact on how one is perceived but
wouldn't define whether or not you are masculine or feminine. Although generalisations will be
based on stereotypical masculine or feminine traits and behaviours and whether or not one dresses
to far out/differently from the norm’ (#21, 2014). What is important here is the word ‘Stereotypical’
and the idea that masculinity and femininity are now stereotypes and are not understood in their
correct terms. This respondent raises an interesting point that generalisations from society are the
reason behind social perception of gender dress and without these generalisations maybe
experimentation in dress would be more acceptable. Picking up on this point another participant
wrote ‘I think the way we dress is a decision on who we want to be perceived, masculine and
feminine values are part of that, but it depends on how much emphasis the individual feels the need
to be defined by gender binary’ (#14, 2014). What is vital to evaluate here is the idea that it is down
to how much value the individual places on gender identity rather then how much society judges it.
If an individual is comfortable with their own gender identity, shouldn't they be able to dress and
portray themselves how they choose?. Considering the points raised in chapter one regarding
dressing for conformity one participant answered this particular question with ‘yes, it gives the
wearer an identity and often represents the group in which they involved’ (#8, 2014). This leads
back to the idea of men being concerned about the possibility of ridicule. Society, in this case males,
Page of21 42
feel comfortable if involved in or associated with a particular identity or group and it is apparent
that dress plays a key part in establishing this.
During the questionnaire it was important to review peoples reactions on the JW Anderson
collection that was the primary source of inspiration for this paper. In order to do this an image of
the collection in focus was presented to the participants during the survey.
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
Fig 10. shows the image that was presented to the participants during the survey. Question four
asked what the initial response was to this image. Overall responses to this image from the 45
people questioned were negative with many stating that the image was unusual. A key word that
arose from these answers was the word ‘feminine’ with one writing ‘It's looks like a feminine outfit
don't think id be attracted to a guy if he wore this, just think his cross dressing!’ (#2, 2014) and
another writing ‘Feminine, not how you would describe masculine’ (#12, 2014). Both of these
answers reiterate the point that certain garments have feminine connotations and these could be too
deep routed to allow for experimentation. Some respondents commented that although this appears
feminine as it is, it could be slightly altered to become more masculine. One person wrote ‘It does
indeed appear to be feminine, had he of wore trousers then not necessarily so much’ (#4, 2014) and
another wrote ‘The fact that he is wearing a dress doesn’t really look any different to everyday
menswear that we see in places like GQ, if worn with trousers would just look like a normal outfit
Page of22 42
Fig.10.
for a male. It was more the bare legs and boots that give the whole outfit a feminine focus’ (#3,
2014). Both respondents make the point here that this outfit could in-fact be styled differently to
appear more masculine. The image in question is taken from a catwalk show and this could be the
reason for the dramatic styling. The designer wanted to exaggerate the femininity of the collection
to add shock value but when broken down and re-styled the garments could in-fact be very
appealing to the everyday male. This refers back to the point made in chapter two with regard to
drastic styles being more socially acceptable within popular culture and entertainment outlets such
as fashion catwalks. A few respondents picked up on this with one writing that the image was ‘High
end, pushing social boundaries on men’s dressing.’ (#14, 2014) and another writing that it is ‘high
fashion, not high street’ (#33, 2014). It appears that these drastic takes on menswear fashion are
prominent within high fashion but will there be a time when high street retailers adopt these styles
and filter them into mainstream fashion?
It was then asked what words came to mind to describe a man who wore an outfit such as
the image above. Almost all of the results indicated that the people asked would describe the
individual as ‘gay’ or ‘feminine’ with some results using the word ‘cross dressing’. This could be a
result of long-term stereotypes of certain pieces of clothing and the fact that from a young age
society is told that one thing is for the woman and another for the man, referring back to the point
discussed above about gender symbols. Another result that is apparent throughout the answers of
this question is that the individual is brave. One interviewee writes ‘Interesting, different, brave,
confident’ (#5, 2014) and another writing ‘Bold, Brave, Adventurous, Confident’ (#41, 2014). It is
interesting that the word brave appears a lot within these answers because it raises questions about
why this is considered brave. Should an individual have to be brave in order to dress in a certain
way and why does this only appear to be applicable to men? When considering that rules may be
different for men and for women, it was asked if the respondents feel if the menswear fashion
industry is as important as womenswear and if it can be as experimental with it’s designs.
Page of23 42
Something which came up a lot through these answers was that menswear fashion is a lot safer than
womenswear. One individual wrote ‘Men’s fashion is very ‘safe’’ (#33, 2014) and another wrote
that ‘Can be boring but safe. Not prepared to take the same risks as womenswear.’ (#28, 2014). It is
apparent that womenswear is more renowned, especially in Europe, for being experimental with it’s
designs. Menswear, although progressing, is still concerned with tradition and is more reigned in
that womenswear. One response of interest states ‘male fashion is a lot more boring than women's.
Women have a lot more variety whereas men are pretty limited. And it's known that fashion is more
of a female interest then men. But then again it is changing and much more men are becoming more
fashion aware.’ (#12, 2014). It is apparent that society feels that menswear fashion is growing as an
industry and more and more men are taking an interest in both high fashion and experimental
design. With many participants stating that they felt menswear was safer and even boring it shows
that society could be ready for experimentation and something fresh. The questionnaire proved vital
when understanding the nature of this study as answers were given from every day people within
society and the answers provide interesting insights into social perception. These results combined
with topics discussed in chapters one and two help develop a broad argument about the state of
menswear fashion today with regard to gender boundaries.
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
Page of24 42
Conclusion.
!
To conclude this study it is important to evaluate points raised in all three chapters to
determine if menswear fashion has developed with regard to burring gender identity boundaries.
During the first chapter gender identity was discussed and it raised points that gender is
today seen as a physicality. When considering the male gender, it was concluded that society
associates this with physical power, strength and trustworthiness rather than biological sex. A very
important topic that was discussed within this chapter was that of universal masculinity and the rise
of the suit. The particular research was greatly important as it surfaced ideas about why the male
gender shy away from adventurous design ideas and helped to understand reasons for male
conformity and the reasons why society male ridicule them for being different. The idea of
simplicity in dress, in this instants the suit, enabled the male race to appear reliable and normal. If
dressed in a similar way they would be seen as other men and therefore there would be no doubt of
character. The idea that the suit was used as a form of uniform for many men is a key example of
this and although the suit is still widely worn today, it is clear to see that other styles have replaced
the suit and men are conforming less. Aspects of this are still seen within menswear fashion today, it
appears, but more experimental designers such as JW Anderson appear to be challenging this.
Some, but not all men, are becoming more open to radical design and are less concerned with social
reaction.
Chapter two looked at the influences from popular and gay subcultures and touched on the
term androgyny and it’s true meaning. It is clear from the information gathered that both popular
cultures and gay subcultures have had a major impact on the menswear fashion industry. The rise of
gay subcultures from the 1970’s proposed new styles of dress and a new way for men to experiment
with their style and personal appearance. Fig. 3. shows a Jean Paul Gaultier advertisement which is
a key representation of this. It appears that during this time men and society as a whole were
Page of25 42
becoming more open to different styles but it seems that they were only apparent throughout gay
subcultures and the every day male would participate slightly but would still shy away in some way.
A key thing to be taken away from this chapter was the analysis of Kanye West wearing a Givenchy
skirt. This was powerful research as it helped to understand the possibility that someone in the
public eye has the opportunity to experiment more and not be ridiculed by society. Kanye is well
known for a masculine persona and being involved in the rap industry helps this so the idea of him
wearing something such as the skirt does not effect societies opinion of him. The rapper may not be
considered a ‘normal’ person and so if an average male of the street were to adopt a style like this
there would be a different reaction from society. Another important element within this chapter is
the definition of the word androgyny. The JW Anderson collection in question was, by many,
described using this term so it was vital to understand it’s true meaning. After considering the true
meaning of the term it is apparent that the word now takes on a new, cooler meaning and is not used
in the correct way when referring to fashion. The collection is in-fact not androgynous because the
use of the term means that the collection still has some form of gender boundary. If the collection
were truly androgynous then there would be would be no gender distinction.
The final chapter discussed the inspiration for this paper, JW Anderson, and analysed
feedback from fashion insiders and the general public with regard to gender identity blurring within
menswear fashion. The results from the questionnaire were valuable when trying to understand
social perception of male dress and the gender rules that surround it. It became clear through the
results of this questionnaire that the majority of society are not ready to accept radical designs such
as JW Anderson’s and it appears that this is mainly down to social perception and deep routed ideas
of masculinity and femininity. That being said, it is very clear that there has been a change in social
perception in recent times and the results from the questionnaire regarding menswear fashion as a
whole state that the designs are stale and could be more experimental. This proves that men are
Page of26 42
willing to accept experimental design but at a slower pace than womenswear and this could mean
that radical high-end designs could, in time, be widely accepted by men.
When considering all of the points raised in this paper it could be said that gender
boundaries are in-fact becoming extinct within menswear fashion but at a much slower pace than
seen in womenswear design. Experimentation with gender appears to be very prominent within high
fashion outlets as well as popular culture but the average man on the street still seems weary about
adopting these design ideas. Figures within popular and gay cultures such as Bowie from the 1980’s
and Kanye West in present day have kickstarted a re-alignment within menswear fashion with
regard to gender boundaries and figures such as these are becoming role models for the average
male. Continued experimentation with gender dress from figures in the spotlight and designers such
as JW Anderson will mean gender boundary extinction in future years. It is clear to see that some
men are more open to these styles and it will take a re-education on both gender and dress to re-
configure the views of the rest of society.
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
Page of27 42
List Of Illustrations.
!
!
Figure 1. Garner, Phillip (1982) The Half Suit [Photograph] At: Better Living Catalogue, Phillip
Garner (Accessed on 10.10.2014)
!
Figure 2. Garner, Phillip (1982) The One Shoulder Shirt [Photograph] At Better Living Catalogue,
Phillip Garner (Accessed on 10.10.2014)
!
Figure 3. Le Male. Jean Paul Gaultier (1995) [Advertisement] At: http://www.thenonblonde.com/
2010/11/jean-paul-gaultier-le-male.html#.VLQpyGSsVbs (Accessed on 05.09.2014)
!
Figure 4. Kanye West On Tour (2012) [Photography] At: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/
article-2275717/Kanye-West-demands-picture-agency-deletes-photographs-wearing-leather-
skirt.html (Accessed on 03/10/2014)
!
Figure 5. Kanye West On Tour (2012) [Photograph] At: http://www.kanyetothe.com/forum/
index.php?topic=295316.0 (Accessed on 03/10/2014)
!
Figure 6. JW Anderson A/W13: Look 23 (2013) [Photograph] At: http://www.style.com/slideshows/
fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/j-w-anderson/collection/23 (Accessed on 03/10/2014)
!
Figure. 7. JW Anderson A/W13: Look 35 (2013) [Photograph] At: http://www.style.com/slideshows/
fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/j-w-anderson/collection/35 (Accessed on 03/10/2014)
!
Figure. 8. JW Anderson A/W13: Look 7 (2013) [Photograph] At: http://www.style.com/slideshows/
fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/j-w-anderson/collection/7 (Accessed on 03/10/2014)
!
Figure. 9. JW Anderson A/W13: Look 20 (2013) [Photograph] At: http://www.style.com/
slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/j-w-anderson/collection/20 (Accessed on
03/10/2014)
!
Figure. 10. JW Anderson A/W13: Look 23 (2013) [Photograph] At: http://www.style.com/
slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/j-w-anderson/collection/23 (Accessed on
03/10/2014)
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
Page of28 42
Bibliography.
!
Bumpus, Jessica (2013) ‘JW Anderson’ In: vogue.com [online] At: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/
autumn-winter-2013/mens/jw-anderson (Accessed on 15.12.2014)
!
Burman, Barbara & Turbin, Carole (2003) Material Strategies: Dress and Gender In Historical
Perspective. Hoboken: Wiley Publishing.
!
Cheveguara. (2013) ‘The radical unisex designs of JW Anderson’ [online] At: http://
www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/jun/01/radical-unisex-designs-jw-anderson. (Accessed on
15.12.2014)
!
Collin’s Dictionaries (2015) ‘Androgynous’ definition [online] At: http://
www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/androgyny?showCookiePolicy=true (Accessed on
03.10.2014)
!
Craik, Jennifer (2003) The Face Of Fashion: Cultural Studies In Fashion. Routledge Publishing.
!
Crane, Diana (2000) Fashion and It’s Social Agendas. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press.
!
Entwistle, Joanne and Wilson, Elizabeth (2001) Body Dressing: Dress, Body, Culture. London:
Bloomsbury Academic.
!
Entwistle, Joanne (2000) The Fashioned Body. Hoboken, NJ: Wiley Publishing.
!
Furniss, Jo-Ann. (2013) ‘JW Anderson Fall 2013 Menswear’ In: Style.com [online] At: http://
www.style.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/j-w-anderson (Accessed on 03.10.2014)
!
Geczy, Adam (2013) Queer Style London: Bloomsbury Academic.
!
Honeyman, Katrina (2003) Following Suit: Men, Masculinity and Gendered Practices in the
Clothing Trade in Leeds, England, 1990-1940. In: Lynn Abrams, Sarah Chambers, Tracey Deutsch,
Eleanor Gordon, Mary Jo Maynes, and Alexandra Shepard (ed.) Gender & History. Oxford: John
Wiley & Sons. pp. 56-76
!
Kidwell, Claudia & Steel, Valerie (1989) Men And Women: Dressing The Part. Indiana:
Smithsonian Institution Press.
!
Mosse, George (1998) The Image Of Man: The Creation Of Modern Masculinity. Oxford: Oxford
University Press.
!
Murray, Healy (2013) ‘The radical unisex designs of JW Anderson’ In: theguardian.com [online] At:
http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/jun/01/radical-unisex-designs-jw-anderson (Accessed on
15.12.2014)
!
Myopicus. (2013) ‘The radical unisex designs of JW Anderson’ [online] At: http://
www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/jun/01/radical-unisex-designs-jw-anderson. (Accessed on
15.12.2014)
Page of29 42
Santinox. (2013) ‘The radical unisex designs of JW Anderson’ [online] At: http://
www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/jun/01/radical-unisex-designs-jw-anderson. (Accessed on
15.12.2014)
!
1649. (2013) ‘The radical unisex designs of JW Anderson’ [online] At: http://
www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/jun/01/radical-unisex-designs-jw-anderson. (Accessed on
15.12.2014)
!
#2 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th March
2014.
!
#3 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th March
2014.
!
#4 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th March
2014.
!
#5 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th March
2014.
!
#8 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th March
2014.
!
#12 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th
March 2014.
!
#14 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th
March 2014.
!
#21 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th
March 2014.
!
#28 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th
March 2014.
!
#33 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th
March 2014.
!
#41 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th
March 2014.
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
Page of30 42
Appendices One:
!
!
The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions - Questionnaire.
!
!
Question 1:-
Firstly, are you male or female?
!
!
!
Question 2:-
When thinking about the word ‘’Masculine’’ what words come to mind and how would you define
masculinity?
!
Question 3:-
Do you think that the way we dress defines the man or the women?
!
Question 4:-
This is an image for the A/W 13 menswear collection by JW Anderson.
Page of31 42
Male Female
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
Question 4:-
When looking at the previous image, what is your initial response?
!
Question 5:-
Do you think that men dressing in this way changes how masculine they are?
!
Question 6:-
What would you think of the man that wore an outfit such as this? List words that come to mind:
!
Question 7:-
Do you think that there will come a time when men and women can wear the same styles of
clothing regardless of their gender? (For example, men wearing dresses)
!
!
!
!
!
Page of32 42
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
Question 8:-
What are your feelings on the menswear fashion industry - Do you think it is as important as
womenswear and do you think it can be as experimental?
!
Question 9:-
Finally, please list words that come to mind to describe menswear fashion today:
!
! !
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
Page of33 42
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
Appendices 2:- Questionnaire responses:
The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions.
!
Question 1:-
Firstly are you female or male?
!!Question 2:-
When thinking about the word ''Masculine'' what words come to mind and how would you define
masculinity?
!men and manly 1/1/2015 10:56 PM
Aftershave. Muscle. Strength. Hairy. - someone to watch over me. 12/30/2014 10:35 PM
Men Power. 12/30/2014 10:33 PM
Man who is strong. 12/30/2014 10:30 PM
Strong man. 12/30/2014 10:11 PM
Man well dressed and reserved. 12/30/2014 9:28 PM s
Old fashioned and courteous. Being willing to put others first, not afraid of sacrifice or pain. 12/30/2014 9:10
PM
sharp jaw line, muscle, toned, smart, clean lines, clean shaven. 12/30/2014 9:08 PM s
Strong, attitude, androgynous. 12/30/2014 8:32 PM
Not feminine Typically male. 12/30/2014 4:50 PM
Muscles,rugged,unshaven hunky men ooh lovely. 12/30/2014 10:22 AM
Sexist. I think the definition of masculinity is changing hopefully from old big, strong cliches. 12/30/2014
9:46 AM
Male strength. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM
Power, obsession, narrow vision. I'd describe masculinity as all empowering. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM
manly, muscle, unshaven, after shave,heavy manual worker, rugged. 12/29/2014 10:50 PM
Manly strong secure Behaviours that define you as being manly. 12/29/2014 10:34 PM
Confident. Manliness. 12/29/2014 10:12 PM
Tall, dark, handsome, muscly, gentlemanly, manners. 12/29/2014 10:06 PM
Powerful. 12/29/2014 9:39 PM
Muscular. Macho. 12/29/2014 9:28 PM
strong assertive. 12/29/2014 9:09 PM
Masculinity is commonly judged by attracting certain qualities and behaviours, typically of power and
strength. Although this is commonly socially defined, while certain attributes possible being innate.
12/29/2014 8:57 PM
Strong, man, broad. 12/29/2014 8:12 PM
Broad shoulders, moustache , strong features , deep voice. 12/22/2014 6:21 PM
Strength, of large build, deep voice, a firm attitude, a leader, strong presence in public and in groups.
12/22/2014 3:00 PM
Page of34 42
Old fashioned. Chauvinistic. Clean-cut. Definitive. 11/5/2014 9:28 PM
Masculinity is an attitude that's determined by social attitudes, it changes on different social classes, social
groups, cultures, ages the current era. And of course, to an individual. 11/4/2014 7:42 AM
strength, dominant, powerful, robust. 11/3/2014 9:58 PM
Macho, manly, strong, assertive, strong jaw, rugged, bold, powerful, stallion. 11/3/2014 9:20 PM
grey. straight lines. deep. harsh. 11/3/2014 7:51 PM
Masculine is a type of status, also referring to men a lot more than women. 11/3/2014 1:54 PM
What comes to mind is the gender male and things that relate to a male stereotypically. 11/3/2014 1:30 PM
boxy, tailored and professional. 11/3/2014 1:24 PM
Androgynous. 11/3/2014 12:32 PM
Strength, physical and mental. 11/3/2014 12:16 PM
Manly,beefy, - when a guys masculine he is hands on, gentlemanly but strong. Sometimes dominant.
11/3/2014 11:55 AM
Muscles, able to lift heavy objects, loud, boastful, strong. 11/3/2014 11:47 AM
A man with a good strong personality, along with a good looking body. 11/3/2014 11:45 AM
How much one is perceived as a "man" in society and how one interprets that oneself. 11/3/2014 11:43 AM
!Question 3:-
Do you think that the way we dress defines the man or the woman?
!i think it affects how we feel and how people view us. 1/1/2015 10:56 PM
Certainly. 12/30/2014 10:35 PM
Yes. 12/30/2014 10:33 PM
Yes. 12/30/2014 10:30 PM
Yes. 12/30/2014 10:12 PM
Yes. 12/30/2014 10:11 PM
yes most of the time. 12/30/2014 9:28 PM
Man. 12/30/2014 9:10 PM
depends on style and where or how an outfit is worn. 12/30/2014 9:08 PM
Yes-sometimes. 12/30/2014 8:32 PM
Yes-sometimes
12/30/2014 8:32 PM View respondent's answers
Yes-sometimes. 12/30/2014 8:31 PM
yes. 12/30/2014 4:50 PM
Yes. 12/30/2014 10:22 AM
Yes. 12/30/2014 9:46 AM
yes. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM
Yes. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM
Depends on the persons personality and persona. 12/29/2014 10:50 PM
It's not the only thing but it is probably the first thing you notice. 12/29/2014 10:34 PM
Yes. 12/29/2014 10:12 PM
yes. 12/29/2014 10:06 PM
no. 12/29/2014 9:39 PM
Yes. 12/29/2014 9:28 PM
no. 12/29/2014 9:09 PM
It has an impact on how one is perceived but wouldn't define whether or not you are masculine or feminine.
Although generalisations will be based on stereotypical masculine or feminine traits and behaviours and
whether or not one dresses to far out/differently from the norm. 12/29/2014 8:57 PM
Yes, but only because society has made it that way. 12/29/2014 8:12 PM
poss. 12/28/2014 7:11 PM
yes. 12/22/2014 6:58 PM
yes. 12/22/2014 6:21 PM
I don't think it can specifically define a gender but it usually (not always!) goes alongside identifying a male
or female. The way we dress can add character and style to a gender and emphasise it if desired. 12/22/2014
3:00 PM
Yes. 11/5/2014 9:28 PM
I think the way we dress is a decision on who we want to be perceived, masculine and feminine values are
part of that, but it depends on how much emphasis the individual feels the need to be defined by gender
binary. 11/4/2014 7:42 AM
not especially. 11/3/2014 9:58 PM
Page of35 42
Woman. 11/3/2014 9:20 PM
yes. 11/3/2014 7:51 PM
the man. 11/3/2014 1:54 PM
Yes. 11/3/2014 1:30 PM
yes, it gives the wearer an identity and often represents the group in which they involved. 11/3/2014 1:24 PM
Not at all. 11/3/2014 12:32 PM
No. 11/3/2014 12:16 PM
I think people like to think that's the case, but no not always. 11/3/2014 11:55 AM
Not really, other areas define a man and woman more like hair/ facial hair, voice. 11/3/2014 11:47 AM
I think it can say a lot about a person the way they dress, not sure it defines them. 11/3/2014 11:45 AM
Yes as it changes ho people respond to us changing the person we are. 11/3/2014 11:43 AM
!!IMAGE FROM THE JW ANDERSON COLLECTION SHOWN HERE.
!Question 4:-
When looking at the previous image, what is your initial response?
!Catwalk gimmickry?. 1/1/2015 10:56 PM View respondent's answers
Gay man. 12/30/2014 10:35 PM View respondent's answers
Ridiculous. 12/30/2014 10:33 PM View respondent's answers
weird. 12/30/2014 10:30 PM View respondent's answers
Odd. 12/30/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers
Odd. 12/30/2014 10:11 PM View respondent's answers
no don't like it at all. 12/30/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers
What is 'it' playing at??? I wouldn't even dress like that in the privacy of my own bedroom!. 12/30/2014 9:10
PM View respondent's answers
versatile, controversial. Minus the head you would almost think this is an athletic women!. 12/30/2014 9:08
PM View respondent's answers
Great boots. 12/30/2014 8:32 PM View respondent's answers
high fashion not high street. 12/30/2014 4:50 PM View respondent's answers
Oh my god look at those chicken legs. 12/30/2014 10:22 AM View respondent's answers
Doesn't really suit him but nice legs. 12/30/2014 9:46 AM View respondent's answers
strange. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers
Unnerving and uncomfortable. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers
wow different !!. 12/29/2014 10:50 PM View respondent's answers
Unusual. 12/29/2014 10:34 PM View respondent's answers
confident strong brave free. 12/29/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers
its not right.. 12/29/2014 10:06 PM View respondent's answers
no response. 12/29/2014 9:39 PM View respondent's answers
Laughter. 12/29/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers
cool. 12/29/2014 9:09 PM View respondent's answers
Incredibly unpractical and far from what we would social perceive as normal and masculine. Saying this, I
believe it does the purpose of displaying that fashion is evolving, and style is constantly changing. Men's
fashion is displaying itself with more feminine qualities as men are becoming more comfortable with
women's clothing. This can also be seen and compared to women wearing and becoming comfortable with
men's fashion, and this is seen as normal. Therefore, men's fashion is most likely going to take the same
route and within time, men will be more comfortable with more feminine clothing. 12/29/2014 8:57 PM
View respondent's answers
Strange, shocking - controversial. 12/29/2014 8:12 PM View respondent's answers
cunt. 12/28/2014 7:11 PM View respondent's answers
Confused. 12/22/2014 6:58 PM View respondent's answers
Confused. 12/22/2014 6:21 PM View respondent's answers
My initial response is that it's a very conflicting image. The garment and boots are items that would usually
be adorned in everyday life by females. But they don't look out of place on this male either. 12/22/2014 3:00
PM View respondent's answers
Eat some food you mincer!. 11/5/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers
High end, pushing social boundaries on men's dressing, but nothing new in terms of feminity in menswear.
11/4/2014 7:42 AM View respondent's answers
powerful and brave. 11/3/2014 9:58 PM View respondent's answers
Page of36 42
Feminine, not how you would describe masculine. 11/3/2014 9:20 PM View respondent's answers
he's wearing womens clothing. 11/3/2014 7:51 PM View respondent's answers
love the boots. 11/3/2014 1:54 PM View respondent's answers
A man shouldn't wear a dress. 11/3/2014 1:30 PM View respondent's answers
i think it is none typical of mens wear, however this does not make it better. it looks too feminine and the
boots give the impression of some form of fetishism. 11/3/2014 1:24 PM View respondent's answers
The future, welcomed change. 11/3/2014 12:32 PM View respondent's answers
He forgot his trousers!. 11/3/2014 12:16 PM View respondent's answers
It does indeed appear to be feminine, had he of wore trousers then not necessarily so much. 11/3/2014 11:55
AM View respondent's answers
The fact that he is wearing a dress doesn't really look any different to everyday menswear that we see in
places like GQ, if worn with trousers would just look like a normal outfit for a male. It was more the bare
legs and boots that give the whole outfit a feminine focus. 11/3/2014 11:47 AM View respondent's answers
It's looks like a feminine outfit don't think id be attracted to a guy if he wore this, just think his cross
dressing!. 11/3/2014 11:45 AM View respondent's answers
The guy looks pissed off and has a receding hairline. 11/3/2014 11:43 AM View respondent's answers
!!Question 5:-
Do you think that men dressing in this way changes how masculine they are?
!No. It doesn't appear feminine. 1/1/2015 10:56 PM View respondent's answers
Absolutely. 12/30/2014 10:35 PM View respondent's answers
Yes. 12/30/2014 10:33 PM View respondent's answers
yes. 12/30/2014 10:30 PM View respondent's answers
Yes. 12/30/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers
Yes. 12/30/2014 10:11 PM View respondent's answers
no not really just does not look good. 12/30/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers
Yes. 12/30/2014 9:10 PM View respondent's answers
no, it simply defines their choice of style. 12/30/2014 9:08 PM View respondent's answers
No. 12/30/2014 8:32 PM View respondent's answers
yes. 12/30/2014 4:50 PM View respondent's answers
Yes definitely. 12/30/2014 10:22 AM View respondent's answers
It changes peoples perception of how masculine they are - clothing doesn't change who you are - how
ridiculous. 12/30/2014 9:46 AM View respondent's answers
yes. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers
This a catwalk collection not reality. However wearing a dress does not change how masculine they look.
12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers
no but may change other peoples perception. 12/29/2014 10:50 PM View respondent's answers
No but would make them stand out. 12/29/2014 10:34 PM View respondent's answers
No. 12/29/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers
yes. 12/29/2014 10:06 PM View respondent's answers
no. 12/29/2014 9:39 PM View respondent's answers
Yes. 12/29/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers
no. 12/29/2014 9:09 PM View respondent's answers
Dressing in a certain way I feel can only impact the way men will be perceived as masculine or more
feminine. Men's fashion has changed and a lot of men in fashion are looking for different pieces and styles.
Dividing from the norm, if anything I feel this makes men more masculine as they relate to their personality
attributes of being bold and strong, in that they are taking risks and not conforming to socially acceptable and
normal style. 12/29/2014 8:57 PM View respondent's answers
No, they would still be just as masculine but society would view them as less masculine because of how
gender is constructed. 12/29/2014 8:12 PM View respondent's answers
changes how cunty they are I spose. 12/28/2014 7:11 PM View respondent's answers
No. 12/22/2014 6:58 PM View respondent's answers
No. 12/22/2014 6:21 PM View respondent's answers
Not at all. His physique is still very indicative of that of a male, he has strong features and there is more to a
man that defines him than the way he dresses. 12/22/2014 3:00 PM View respondent's answers
No. 11/5/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers
No, masculinity is an attitude.11/4/2014 7:42 AM View respondent's answers
Page of37 42
i don't think so but i can see why many others would think yes it does. 11/3/2014 9:58 PM View respondent's
answers
A little yes, it shouldn't but purely because this is seen to be a feminine look. Dressing in certain ways is how
humans like to distinguish gender. 11/3/2014 9:20 PM View respondent's answers
no. 11/3/2014 7:51 PM View respondent's answers
I do not think so because it is a very gender neutral garment. 11/3/2014 1:54 PM View respondent's answers
Yes are a man shouldn't wear a dress as it is abnormal. 11/3/2014 1:30 PM View respondent's answers
Yes from the female perspective i would look at them as homosexual regardless of their sexuality. i would
not look twice at them as a sex symbol. 11/3/2014 1:24 PM View respondent's answers
Not at all. 11/3/2014 12:32 PM View respondent's answers
It changes how masculine they look. 11/3/2014 12:16 PM View respondent's answers
a little. 11/3/2014 11:55 AM View respondent's answers
Not really, can still tell they are men and more masculine than a woman. 11/3/2014 11:47 AM View
respondent's answers
Yes! Defiantly. 11/3/2014 11:45 AM View respondent's answers
Initially no as one should be aware of how masculine they are so changing their attire should not change that.
Although over time people would react and approach to someone in that attire and then respond to them
differently which may change their interpretation of their own masculinity over time. 11/3/2014 11:43 AM
View respondent's answers
!Question 6:-
What would you think of the man that wore an outfit such as this? List words that come to mind:
!Attention seeking. 1/1/2015 10:56 PM View respondent's answers
Gay friend. Bitchy. Self obsessed. 12/30/2014 10:35 PM View respondent's answers
Gay Feminine. 12/30/2014 10:33 PM View respondent's answers
Gay Cross-dress. 12/30/2014 10:30 PM View respondent's answers
Bold Brave Adventurous Confident. 12/30/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers
feminine. 12/30/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers
Weird Unsure of himself. Why?. 12/30/2014 9:10 PM View respondent's answers
unique, trendy, slightly odd, possibly trans gender, risky. 12/30/2014 9:08 PM View respondent's answers
strong, independent, a trail blazer.. 12/30/2014 8:32 PM View respondent's answers
Adventurous Fashionable. 12/30/2014 4:50 PM View respondent's answers
Creepy, feminine , yuk. 12/30/2014 10:22 AM View respondent's answers
Brave. 12/30/2014 9:46 AM View respondent's answers
Feminine Gay. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers
Transvestism. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers
Confident, different, not afraid. 12/29/2014 10:50 PM View respondent's answers
Comfortable in themselves, making a statement, not conforming to the norm. 12/29/2014 10:34 PM View
respondent's answers
confident brave. 12/29/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers
gay, cross dresser, camp.. 12/29/2014 10:06 PM View respondent's answers
brave. 12/29/2014 9:39 PM View respondent's answers
Exhibitionist Poser Show off. 12/29/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers
mindful, cool assertive. 12/29/2014 9:09 PM View respondent's answers
Depending on the occasion and surroundings. Clearly it suits the purpose and is displaying what is intended.
Runway outfits aren't neccassarily going to be expected to be practible and accepted in the normal, everyday
world. 12/29/2014 8:57 PM View respondent's answers
Brave, comfortable. 12/29/2014 8:12 PM View respondent's answers
massive cunt. 12/28/2014 7:11 PM View respondent's answers
Fashion student Student Office worker. 12/22/2014 6:58 PM View respondent's answers
Brave (as the majority of society would judge him) Comfortable with himself Self assured Confident.
12/22/2014 3:00 PM View respondent's answers
Brave, foolish. 11/5/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers
He has some serious balls. 11/4/2014 7:42 AM View respondent's answers
risky, brave, confident, tenacious, 11/3/2014 9:58 PM View respondent's answers
That he is possibly homosexual. 11/3/2014 9:20 PM View respondent's answers
bold. odd. fearless, in a way they are masculine traits, i just automatically think of a dress as womens
clothing, wether its masculine/feminine. 11/3/2014 7:51 PM View respondent's answers
daring to be different. 11/3/2014 1:54 PM View respondent's answers
Page of38 42
I would think he was gay. 11/3/2014 1:30 PM View respondent's answers
Girly, Not handsome, non masculine, respectively to stand next to a man wearing that it would make me feel
manly even though i am a very feminine dresser. 11/3/2014 1:24 PM View respondent's answers
Brave, true to self, free, high fashion, luxury. 11/3/2014 12:32 PM View respondent's answers
Interesting, different, brave, confident. 11/3/2014 12:16 PM View respondent's answers
Possibly more on the feminine side. Really into catwalk fashion. Possibly gay but necessarily. 11/3/2014
11:55 AM View respondent's answers
Cross dressing or gender experimentation. 11/3/2014 11:47 AM View respondent's answers
Cross dresser Feminine Sensitive. 11/3/2014 11:45 AM View respondent's answers
Confident. Bizzare. Unique. Camp. 11/3/2014 11:43 AM View respondent's answers
!Question 7:-
Do you think that there will come a time when men and woman can wear the same styles of clothing
regardless of their gender? (For example, men wearing dresses)
!That time has already arrived. 1/1/2015 10:56 PM View respondent's answers
I hope not! 12/30/2014 10:35 PM View respondent's answers
No. 12/30/2014 10:33 PM View respondent's answers
Don't think so. 12/30/2014 10:30 PM View respondent's answers
No. 12/30/2014 10:11 PM View respondent's answers
yes most probably but a lot of men would not feel comfortable in a dress. 12/30/2014 9:28 PM View
respondent's answers
No. I think that men will mainly where masculine clothing, whereas women can wear what ever they like, be
it male or female clothing. 12/30/2014 9:10 PM View respondent's answers
in some cultures already happens. depends whether it becomes main stream socially acceptable. 12/30/2014
9:08 PM View respondent's answers
yes. 12/30/2014 8:32 PM View respondent's answers
yes. 12/30/2014 8:31 PM View respondent's answers
no. 12/30/2014 4:50 PM View respondent's answers
Oh no. 12/30/2014 10:22 AM View respondent's answers
No. 12/30/2014 9:46 AM View respondent's answers
yes. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers
Not in my lifetime. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers
Not sure. 12/29/2014 10:50 PM View respondent's answers
Certainly things are continually changing making it easier for people to express themselves in what ever way
they want. 12/29/2014 10:34 PM View respondent's answers
yes. 12/29/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers
no. 12/29/2014 10:06 PM View respondent's answers
yes. 12/29/2014 9:39 PM View respondent's answers
No. 12/29/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers
yes. 12/29/2014 9:09 PM View respondent's answers
Definitely, I find it is already happening and recently fashion has been quickly evolving and men's fashion is
becoming more feminine. 12/29/2014 8:57 PM View respondent's answers
Yes, I think more so with women wearing mens clothing although that is already pretty established. I think it
will become more and more acceptable for men to adopt female styles. 12/29/2014 8:12 PM View
respondent's answers
depends don't it. 12/28/2014 7:11 PM View respondent's answers
If they did not have a physical job. 12/22/2014 6:58 PM View respondent's answers
Yes, I think it's already happening. I just don't think people are as confident as they should be because the
majority of society is relentless and vicious towards what is not “normal". 12/22/2014 3:00 PM View
respondent's answers
No however women have done it for over 100 years. 11/5/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers
This already exist in queer theory and a lot of gay culture, and high end design, but when i think on a much
broader range of people, religious, social classes, social attitudes and the natural human instinct to feeling
like the individual belongs to group that helps them define themselves, it won't happen in popular culture for
a long time. 11/4/2014 7:42 AM View respondent's answers
in a way there are some men that already do this. many eastern cultures have adopted this way of dress for
many years and now more of these men are present in our society, especially in London. i think people
should be allowed to wear whatever they want and freely. 11/3/2014 9:58 PM View respondent's answers
it could happen, fashion is forever Changing and more and more looks become acceptable and then trend.
Page of39 42
11/3/2014 9:20 PM View respondent's answers
yes. 11/3/2014 7:51 PM View respondent's answers
yes and i think the time has already came. 11/3/2014 1:54 PM View respondent's answers
Never as the difference in clothing is what defines whether you are a man or a woman. 11/3/2014 1:30 PM
View respondent's answers. 11/3/2014 1:24 PM View respondent's answers
Hopefully! Longer length T-shirts are starting to pave that way. 11/3/2014 12:32 PM View respondent's
answers
No. 11/3/2014 12:16 PM View respondent's answers
In society it's more acceptable for women to wear men's clothes than vice versa but it does occur nowadays,
just not as blatant as dresses. 11/3/2014 11:55 AM View respondent's answers
The time is already now, so many men and women wear clothing to express who they are, the world has
become a lot more free and open minded with expression via clothing. 11/3/2014 11:47 AM View
respondent's answers
Yes probably as anything seems to happen within fashion and it's only a matter of time before trends start
heading this way. 11/3/2014 11:45 AM View respondent's answers
Not anytime soon in a modern western society however I am unaware of different cultures. 11/3/2014 11:43
AM View respondent's answers
!Question 8:-
What are your feelings on the menswear fashion industry - Do you think it is as important as womenswear
and do you think it can be as experimental?
!its more conservative than womenswear generally. 1/1/2015 10:56 PM View respondent's answers
As long as they don't expect to be taken seriously by straight women. 12/30/2014 10:35 PM View
respondent's answers
It is becoming very feminine and very skinny looking!! It can be experimental and yes it is as important.
12/30/2014 10:33 PM View respondent's answers
Yes, why not. 12/30/2014 10:30 PM View respondent's answers
Yes. 12/30/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers
yes I think it's as important as most men like to look good. 12/30/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers
The menswear industry is still strong, with some emphasis on classic outfits e.g. old fashion textile suits. It is
very important as I think that there should be a definition between male and female clothing. 12/30/2014
9:10 PM View respondent's answers
fashion whether male or female should allow people to define their inward personality. fashion evolves and
we continue to see regeneration of past fashion trends. yes important In equal measures for both. 12/30/2014
9:08 PM View respondent's answers
At the moment no as menswear is generally presumed to be simple. It should be as experimental as
womenswear. 12/30/2014 8:32 PM View respondent's answers
mens fashion is very ‘safe’. 12/30/2014 4:50 PM View respondent's answers
Yes it's as important, men can experiment but keep it masculine please. 12/30/2014 10:22 AM View
respondent's answers
No it's very dull. It can be experimental - and has been with every generation. 12/30/2014 9:46 AM View
respondent's answers
yes it's as important. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers
Menswear is still steeped in tradition. It will take a very long time to change that. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View
respondent's answers
Can be boring but safe. Not prepared to take the same risks as womenswear. 12/29/2014 10:50 PM View
respondent's answers
Yes definitely as important and think it should be as experimental. 12/29/2014 10:34 PM View respondent's
answers
Yes it can be as experimental but the consumer needs to accept it and change the pre - existing stereotypes.
12/29/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers
yes, it's as important but there is less to experiment with. 12/29/2014 10:06 PM View respondent's answers
pretentious. 12/29/2014 9:39 PM View respondent's answers
As important. No. 12/29/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers
yes tailoring needs to be more aVAILABLE FOR WOMEN. 12/29/2014 9:09 PM View respondent's answers
Men's fashion is becoming incredibly challenging and experimental and we are looking for something
different. I find we are taking more of a concern in our appearance and how we are perceived, therefore
becoming increasingly important. It is a culture. 12/29/2014 8:57 PM View respondent's answers
Page of40 42
I think it is becoming just as important and getting more and more attention because of the forward thinking
designs and the experimentation which has made the womenswear industry so big. 12/29/2014 8:12 PM
View respondent's answers
I don't like experimenting on animals if that's what you mean. 12/28/2014 7:11 PM View respondent's
answers
Yes but would not understand unless it was practical. 12/22/2014 6:58 PM View respondent's answers
I think it is as important, although not as well recognised as womenswear. There's no reason why it couldn't
be as experimental, but I think it's easier for women to experiment with their style due to there being such a
wide variety of brands out there and also less expensive for women. 12/22/2014 3:00 PM View respondent's
answers
It can be experimental as long as there is a division between what is for men and what is for women. Having
said that, I'd rather wear a kilt than a suit or a tux!. 11/5/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers
It has been, and it is back on track to bring so now. Men are alit more interested in individualism and
creativity then they were say, 10 years. I'm a final year design student and ratio between menswear and
womenswear are almost equal out of a group of 75 which is very rare for my uni, my tutor says. Menswear is
becoming a lot more interesting. 11/4/2014 7:42 AM View respondent's answers
absolutely. menswear designers should be allowed to experiment just as much and be totally praised for their
risky-ness. how boring is it going to be if year on year the same mundane designs were released for men.
how can we change the perception of the general public if there is nothing to filter down from the people we
look to as in charge… 11/3/2014 9:58 PM View respondent's answers
male fashion is a lot more boring than women's. Women have a lot more variety whereas men are pretty
limited. And it's known that fashion is more of a female interest then men. But then again it is changing and
much more men are becoming more fashion aware. 11/3/2014 9:20 PM View respondent's answers
I think the demand for the 'norm' overrules the demand for something experimental in mens fashion. I think
there is more money in womens fashion because more women buy mags than men, and the fashion industry
cater for this. If mens fashion had more backing and publicity, you might get more experimental fashions.
11/3/2014 7:51 PM View respondent's answers
I prefer menswear to womens and believe that menswear has a stronger sense of substance over style as well
as keeping it on trend. 11/3/2014 1:54 PM View respondent's answers
Menswear is important however I feel womenswear is critical. 11/3/2014 1:30 PM View respondent's
answers
Absolutely, but it still needs that pull into the world of androgyny. 11/3/2014 12:32 PM View respondent's
answers
Yes definitely. 11/3/2014 12:16 PM View respondent's answers
yes of course. 11/3/2014 11:55 AM View respondent's answers
Yeah definitely. 11/3/2014 11:47 AM View respondent's answers
I think it's just as important, and yeah it can be experimental but most guys still stay safe. 11/3/2014 11:45
AM View respondent's answers
I'm not really up-to-date with it so I cannot comment. 11/3/2014 11:43 AM View respondent's answers.
!Question 9:-
Finally, please list words that come to mind to describe menswear fashion today.
!Menswear generally is more conservative than womenswear but maybe men are more confident and secure
in their clothing choices and less in need to make a statement than women. Perhaps men place comfort and
practicality first. Why do you think men don't wear heels? 1/1/2015 10:56 PM View respondent's answers
Static. Classic. Boring. 12/30/2014 10:35 PM View respondent's answers
Gay Feminine Very skinny looking. 12/30/2014 10:33 PM View respondent's answers
More variety and more stylise. 12/30/2014 10:30 PM View respondent's answers
Tapered Smart Powerful. 12/30/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers
sassy classy. 12/30/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers
It is becoming: sloppy cross retro (e.g. 70's mixed with 80's fashion) too casual. 12/30/2014 9:10 PM View
respondent's answers
edgy to a point, contemporary, beige, individual, versatile, limited, pricey. 12/30/2014 9:08 PM View
respondent's answers.
Simple, controlled by social stereotypes, 12/30/2014 8:32 PM View respondent's answers
boring Unimaginative. 12/30/2014 4:50 PM View respondent's answers
Mostly casual , smart, and manly. 12/30/2014 10:22 AM View respondent's answers
Boring, dull, same old. 12/30/2014 9:46 AM View respondent's answers
Freestyle Casual Branded. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers
Page of41 42
Traditional in lots of ways yet still breaking through the boundaries to become more contemporary.
12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers
safe , mundane, repetitive, lacks colour and vibrancy, 12/29/2014 10:50 PM View respondent's answers
Similar trends Masculine in design. 12/29/2014 10:34 PM View respondent's answers
similar. Comfortable practical. 12/29/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers
exciting. Different. 12/29/2014 10:06 PM View respondent's answers
asual, cool, comfortable. 12/29/2014 9:39 PM View respondent's answers
Clean cut. Smart. 12/29/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers
CLEAN, lean smart. 12/29/2014 9:09 PM View respondent's answers
Creative, challenging, high, street, cultures, emotion, change, new! 12/29/2014 8:57 PM View respondent's
answers
Innovative, exiting, experimental, forward thinking, clean cut, smart. 12/29/2014 8:12 PM View respondent's
answers
T-shirts, jeans etc. 12/28/2014 7:11 PM View respondent's answers
smart suits Jeans smart but casual. 12/22/2014 6:58 PM View respondent's answers
Bold Skinny Tailored Layered Strong lines. 12/22/2014 3:00 PM View respondent's answers
In limbo, unadventurous, slack, shabby, not defining, predictive. 11/5/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's
answers
Creative, Dearing, high end, selling well. 11/4/2014 7:42 AM View respondent's answers
modern, exciting, different, revolutionary, the best its ever been really. 11/3/2014 9:58 PM View respondent's
answers
Simple, limited, boring. But that's because men are afraid to try too hard and maybe get the feeling they will
come across as "gay" especially if they did something drastic with their image. 11/3/2014 9:20 PM View
respondent's answers
sharp. monochrome. 11/3/2014 7:51 PM View respondent's answers
experimental and new but also timeless. 11/3/2014 1:54 PM View respondent's answers
Smart , Masculine. 11/3/2014 1:30 PM View respondent's answers
Dark, gothic, angles, simplicity, length. 11/3/2014 12:32 PM View respondent's answers
Diverse. 11/3/2014 12:16 PM View respondent's answers
Fitted, slim, various, diverse, evolving. 11/3/2014 11:55 AM View respondent's answers
Dapper, tight fitting, layering, brogues, blazers, coats, accessorise, pocket square, GQ, well put together.
11/3/2014 11:47 AM View respondent's answers
Roll necks! Urgh! - don't enjoy a man in a roll neck!. 11/3/2014 11:45 AM View respondent's answers
Again I don't really dwell on the modern fashion of menswear, I stick to my own preferences that are
conservative. 11/3/2014 11:43 AM View respondent's answers
Page of42 42

More Related Content

What's hot

Stuart Hall Theories of representation 3
Stuart Hall Theories of representation 3Stuart Hall Theories of representation 3
Stuart Hall Theories of representation 3RafaelPerezOlivan
 
International Journal of Humanities and Social Science Invention (IJHSSI)
International Journal of Humanities and Social Science Invention (IJHSSI)International Journal of Humanities and Social Science Invention (IJHSSI)
International Journal of Humanities and Social Science Invention (IJHSSI)inventionjournals
 
Marilyn manson pm
Marilyn manson pmMarilyn manson pm
Marilyn manson pmtoystorybr0
 
Representation of masculinity within media
Representation of masculinity within mediaRepresentation of masculinity within media
Representation of masculinity within mediajoy g
 
The Construction of Masculine Identities in British Magazines-Thesis
The Construction of Masculine Identities in British Magazines-ThesisThe Construction of Masculine Identities in British Magazines-Thesis
The Construction of Masculine Identities in British Magazines-ThesisValeria Eleonora Floris
 
David Gaunlett Identity and media representation
David Gaunlett Identity and media representationDavid Gaunlett Identity and media representation
David Gaunlett Identity and media representationRafaelPerezOlivan
 
Self identity - giddens in gauntlett - media,
Self identity - giddens in gauntlett - media,Self identity - giddens in gauntlett - media,
Self identity - giddens in gauntlett - media,JaneenGatty
 
Media theory presentation
Media theory presentationMedia theory presentation
Media theory presentationleannacatherina
 

What's hot (9)

Stuart Hall Theories of representation 3
Stuart Hall Theories of representation 3Stuart Hall Theories of representation 3
Stuart Hall Theories of representation 3
 
International Journal of Humanities and Social Science Invention (IJHSSI)
International Journal of Humanities and Social Science Invention (IJHSSI)International Journal of Humanities and Social Science Invention (IJHSSI)
International Journal of Humanities and Social Science Invention (IJHSSI)
 
Marilyn manson pm
Marilyn manson pmMarilyn manson pm
Marilyn manson pm
 
Representation of masculinity within media
Representation of masculinity within mediaRepresentation of masculinity within media
Representation of masculinity within media
 
The Construction of Masculine Identities in British Magazines-Thesis
The Construction of Masculine Identities in British Magazines-ThesisThe Construction of Masculine Identities in British Magazines-Thesis
The Construction of Masculine Identities in British Magazines-Thesis
 
David Gaunlett Identity and media representation
David Gaunlett Identity and media representationDavid Gaunlett Identity and media representation
David Gaunlett Identity and media representation
 
Self identity - giddens in gauntlett - media,
Self identity - giddens in gauntlett - media,Self identity - giddens in gauntlett - media,
Self identity - giddens in gauntlett - media,
 
A2 fem gen
A2 fem genA2 fem gen
A2 fem gen
 
Media theory presentation
Media theory presentationMedia theory presentation
Media theory presentation
 

Viewers also liked

Viewers also liked (6)

13 d
13 d13 d
13 d
 
Mekanisme op
Mekanisme opMekanisme op
Mekanisme op
 
draft tgs UTS event
draft tgs UTS eventdraft tgs UTS event
draft tgs UTS event
 
Ijrbf vol-1-issue-1-sep-2016
Ijrbf vol-1-issue-1-sep-2016Ijrbf vol-1-issue-1-sep-2016
Ijrbf vol-1-issue-1-sep-2016
 
Space Presentation
Space PresentationSpace Presentation
Space Presentation
 
Hockey y Voley
Hockey y VoleyHockey y Voley
Hockey y Voley
 

Similar to Gender Boundaries in Menswear

BrandonDisney and Barbi are sexist. Women are objectified i.docx
BrandonDisney and Barbi are sexist. Women are objectified i.docxBrandonDisney and Barbi are sexist. Women are objectified i.docx
BrandonDisney and Barbi are sexist. Women are objectified i.docxAASTHA76
 
Handwriting Essay.pdf
Handwriting Essay.pdfHandwriting Essay.pdf
Handwriting Essay.pdfAmanda Dahya
 
Final essay jamie smith
Final essay jamie smithFinal essay jamie smith
Final essay jamie smithjmiesmth
 
Examples Of Analysis Essay. Literary Analysis Essay: Tips to Write a Perfect ...
Examples Of Analysis Essay. Literary Analysis Essay: Tips to Write a Perfect ...Examples Of Analysis Essay. Literary Analysis Essay: Tips to Write a Perfect ...
Examples Of Analysis Essay. Literary Analysis Essay: Tips to Write a Perfect ...Lauren Davis
 
11.who determines the ideal body
11.who determines the ideal body11.who determines the ideal body
11.who determines the ideal bodyAlexander Decker
 
Who determines the ideal body
Who determines the ideal bodyWho determines the ideal body
Who determines the ideal bodyAlexander Decker
 
Athletes As Role Models Essay
Athletes As Role Models EssayAthletes As Role Models Essay
Athletes As Role Models EssaySheila Espinoza
 
Conclusion Paragraph Example For Analysis Essay
Conclusion Paragraph Example For Analysis EssayConclusion Paragraph Example For Analysis Essay
Conclusion Paragraph Example For Analysis EssayLisa Brown
 
Writing Literary Essays In Spanish Part IV - Drafting,
Writing Literary Essays In Spanish Part IV - Drafting,Writing Literary Essays In Spanish Part IV - Drafting,
Writing Literary Essays In Spanish Part IV - Drafting,Dustin Pytko
 
Of Mice And Men Essay Introduction.pdf
Of Mice And Men Essay Introduction.pdfOf Mice And Men Essay Introduction.pdf
Of Mice And Men Essay Introduction.pdfLory Holets
 
Assignment Gender StereotypingGender stereotyping reflects
Assignment Gender StereotypingGender stereotyping reflects Assignment Gender StereotypingGender stereotyping reflects
Assignment Gender StereotypingGender stereotyping reflects AbramMartino96
 

Similar to Gender Boundaries in Menswear (14)

BrandonDisney and Barbi are sexist. Women are objectified i.docx
BrandonDisney and Barbi are sexist. Women are objectified i.docxBrandonDisney and Barbi are sexist. Women are objectified i.docx
BrandonDisney and Barbi are sexist. Women are objectified i.docx
 
Handwriting Essay.pdf
Handwriting Essay.pdfHandwriting Essay.pdf
Handwriting Essay.pdf
 
Final essay jamie smith
Final essay jamie smithFinal essay jamie smith
Final essay jamie smith
 
Social constructs
Social constructsSocial constructs
Social constructs
 
Examples Of Analysis Essay. Literary Analysis Essay: Tips to Write a Perfect ...
Examples Of Analysis Essay. Literary Analysis Essay: Tips to Write a Perfect ...Examples Of Analysis Essay. Literary Analysis Essay: Tips to Write a Perfect ...
Examples Of Analysis Essay. Literary Analysis Essay: Tips to Write a Perfect ...
 
11.who determines the ideal body
11.who determines the ideal body11.who determines the ideal body
11.who determines the ideal body
 
Who determines the ideal body
Who determines the ideal bodyWho determines the ideal body
Who determines the ideal body
 
Athletes As Role Models Essay
Athletes As Role Models EssayAthletes As Role Models Essay
Athletes As Role Models Essay
 
DGExtract
DGExtractDGExtract
DGExtract
 
Conclusion Paragraph Example For Analysis Essay
Conclusion Paragraph Example For Analysis EssayConclusion Paragraph Example For Analysis Essay
Conclusion Paragraph Example For Analysis Essay
 
Writing Literary Essays In Spanish Part IV - Drafting,
Writing Literary Essays In Spanish Part IV - Drafting,Writing Literary Essays In Spanish Part IV - Drafting,
Writing Literary Essays In Spanish Part IV - Drafting,
 
Of Mice And Men Essay Introduction.pdf
Of Mice And Men Essay Introduction.pdfOf Mice And Men Essay Introduction.pdf
Of Mice And Men Essay Introduction.pdf
 
Assignment Gender StereotypingGender stereotyping reflects
Assignment Gender StereotypingGender stereotyping reflects Assignment Gender StereotypingGender stereotyping reflects
Assignment Gender StereotypingGender stereotyping reflects
 
Hypermasculinity
HypermasculinityHypermasculinity
Hypermasculinity
 

Gender Boundaries in Menswear

  • 1. Table Of Contents. ! ! Introduction. ____________________________________________________________________________1-3 ! Chapter 1: Understanding gender identity, the influence society holds and universal masculinity. ____________________________________________________________________________4-7 ! Chapter 2: The influence of gay subculture, popular culture and androgyny. ___________________________________________________________________________8-13 ! Chapter 3: JW Anderson, the future for gender boundaries and social questionnaire. __________________________________________________________________________14-18 ! Conclusion. __________________________________________________________________________24-26 ! List of Illustrations. ____________________________________________________________________________27 ! Bibliography. __________________________________________________________________________28-29 ! Appendices 1 __________________________________________________________________________30-32 ! Appendices 2 __________________________________________________________________________33-41 ! Page of1 42
  • 2. Introduction ‘Splicing and dicing the DNA of menswear and womenswear is a standing preoccupation for Jonathan Anderson. At first it started mainly in the fabrication of garments; the gendered codes and connotations that linked and divided the sexes through cloth have been repeated motifs. Yet there were always hints of more to come, and now the experiment has culminated in both the materials and silhouettes of his Fall collection. The effeminacy of this collection—a kind of put-together sixties jolie madame made into a twisted jolie monsieur; think Séverine in Belle de Jour crossed with some of her kinky fantasy coachmen—is intended to reconfigure both menswear and womenswear, and to give a kick up the arse to the stale state of much of men's fashion at the moment.’ (Furniss, 2013). The 2013 menswear collection by young designer JW Anderson was a primary source of inspiration for the themes discussed in this paper. The review of the collection by reporter Jo-Ann Furniss for the established online publication style.com, raised interesting points about both the collection itself and the direction of men’s fashion today. The key idea of the reconfiguration of menswear and womenswear is vital to consider when discussing topics relevant to this subject area and the collection in question provides an interesting starting point when it comes to discussing changes within the menswear fashion industry. When referring to ‘the fashion industry’ the majority of society tend to associate the idea with women and femininity and ‘fashion’ as a whole is rarely considered a masculine subject area. This is due to preconceived ideas on what is considered masculine and feminine and the impact that society and gender construction has on the way we consider certain things. The terms ‘masculine’ and ‘feminine’ are merely words that have been constructed by society to separate the sexes and do not represent the alteration of biological sex. This paper aims to challenge ideas of masculinity and femininity with regards to the fashion industry, and looks to consider the growing elements of womenswear within menswear fashion collections. This paper will look at how society is reacting Page of2 42
  • 3. to these changes and will take into consideration the future for menswear fashion. In order to develop an in-depth argument of this topic, various relevant subject areas have been looked in to. Chapter one will focus on ideas of gender identity and the influence that society has on the way gender is constructed and portrayed. Ideas of men dressing for comfort, conformity and social status will also be explored. What was considered masculine for men and what were the reasons for this? Books such as Material Strategies: Dress and Gender in Historical Perspective by Barbara Burman (2003), Fashion and its Social Agendas by Diana Crane (2000) have been considered with regards to men wearing ‘the business suit’ in order to portray masculinity and conformity. These sources will give insight into the reasons why men chose to conform like this and what made them scared or unable to push the boundaries of what is considered masculine. Books such as Men and Women: Dressing the Part by Claudia Kidwell and Valerie Steele (1989) and Gender Trouble by Judith Butler (1990) have been evaluated to gain knowledge on what it means to be a man and what it means to be a woman. These ideas will be compared to help understand perceptions regarding gender identity. These sources as well as Body Dressing: Dress, Body, Culture by Joanne Entwistle and Elizabeth B. Wilson (2001) will pick apart these concepts to determine why the rules could be considered different for each sex. Chapter two will begin by exploring ideas of androgyny as a concept. An important point will be raised with regard to the true meaning of the word androgyny and it will be questioned if this word is still used in its correct context or does the word now take on a different meaning. The Fashioned Body by Joanne Entwistle (2000) will raise points on this subject area and the influences the term androgyny may have on fashion today. Books such as Fashion and its Social Agendas by Diana Crane (2000) and Queer Style by Adam Geczy (2013) are considered to gather information on gay subculture with regards to dress, ideas around gender bending and the impact this has on the ‘masculine’ identity. These sources as well as The Face of Fashion: cultural studies in fashion by Jennifer Craik (2003) will explore ideas of men becoming slightly more adventurous during the Page of3 42
  • 4. 1970’s and 1980’s and the reasons for this change will be considered and discussed. Influences from popular culture will also be discussed within this chapter with a focus on men in the spotlight and the idea of these male figures being able to push the boundaries without ridicule or a change in public perception of them. The final chapter will discuss points raised in both chapters one and two and will consider how these elements have altered menswear fashion in present day. A questionnaire has been carried out with a focus on the J W Anderson collection that inspired this paper in order to determine what perceptions on gender and fashion are today in relation to the blurring of gender identity boundaries. Arguments will be raised with regards to these boundaries and questions such as how far is too far? and will there be time when these boundaries no longer exist? will be considered. Questions about where menswear fashion will progress in the future will be a key focus within this chapter and a discussion of elements within the previous two chapters will be vital in answering this. ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Page of4 42
  • 5. Chapter 1: Understanding gender identity, the influence society holds and universal masculinity. ! To understand the boundaries surrounding gender identity and to gain an insight into the blurring of boundaries it is first important to gain knowledge on fashion with regards to gender and to study the reasons for men dressing the way they do. In the book The Image of Man: The Creation of Modern Masculinity by George Lachmann Mosse (1998) ideas of gender identity with regards to masculinity are commented on. The author writes that ‘modern masculinity was a stereotype’ (Mosse, 1998:5) and that ‘stereotypes objectify human nature, making it easy to understand at a glance and to pass judgement.’ (Mosse, 1998:5). Ideas surrounding masculinity are constructed by society in order to make separation of the sexes easier to understand and identify. The idea that a specific stereotype has been created, in this instance the idea of ‘masculinity’ and ‘femininity’, adds a sense of pressure for a man to appear masculine and a woman to appear feminine in order to avoid judgement from society. It is vital to explore the reasons behind what society considers ‘masculine’ to understand how men both perceive masculinity and portray it through the way they dress. ‘The stereotype of masculinity was conceived as a totality based upon the nature of a man’s body’ (Mosse, 1998:5) Mosse raises an interesting point that masculinity is primarily identified by physical appearance rather than a person’s biological sex. It is important to consider here what society deems masculine before trying to understand what fashions are considered masculine as a result. In the book Fashion And it’s Social Agendas ‘by Diana Crane it is said that ‘‘Contemporary masculinity as expressed in the media has four principle features: (1) Physical power and control that are identified with the male body, (2) Hetrosexuality, (3) Occupational achievement in jobs that are identified as ‘mens work’, and (4) A patriarchal family role’ (Crane, 2000:179). The four key points described here could be seen as a set of rules for the man when trying to portray a successful ‘masculine’ image. Men falling into the above categories Page of5 42
  • 6. will in turn be considered masculine by society so it is apparent that men would dress to conform to these rules. Particular character traits such as being trustworthy or serious about business emerge from trying to conform to these rules. ‘Simplicity in dress indicated that a man could be trusted, the he was serious, and that he meant business. It also meant that he was unlike a woman’ (Burman and Turbin, 2002:58). With the idea of men being the stronger and more serious sex, the ones who went out to earn a living, it makes sense that society would want the man to dress to portray this image. Simplicity in dress is used to show and idea of trust and assures society that a man can be relied on so an attempt to blur these symbols through alteration of masculine ideals could be seen as untrustworthy or un-reliable, thus making society question the man’s intentions. As well as signifying reliability, the way a man dresses is also used to signify social status. ‘The equation of fashion with women and the exclusion of men is historically and culturally specific, stemming from nineteenth-century Victorian and European notions of etiquette, gender relations, and sexuality’ (Craik, 1994:176). It has been seen that fashion is a women’s industry and should primarily be made and consumed by women. Men were seen to be the hard-workers and the providers and women were seen as a kind of decoration, there to look attractive. This point leads back to the idea of dress being used to distinguish the man from the women in all social aspects. ‘These ides proposed a radical split between genders and assigned each of them specific roles and locations.. An index of this order of sexual division was the continuous recreation of dress codes’ (Craik, 1994:176) These ideas or boundaries surrounding sexual diversion have since been used as a base for stereotypical dress codes and again could be seen to add pressure to the sexes to dress in a way deemed appropriate for their sex. ‘Our beliefs about how men and women should look are part of a powerful, complex, and pervading system of values about what is appropriate male and female behaviour’ (Kidwell and Steele: 1989:144). The systems surrounding the way society considers dress and appropriate behaviour for the man and the woman are deep rooted and Page of6 42
  • 7. powerful, there first needs to be a change within this system before gender boundaries can be fully explored and possibly eliminated. An important movement to discuss within the male fashion industry is the rise of the business suit. The suit was seen as an ideal garment to portray a masculine image and played a key part in men conforming to gender identity ideals. This movement could explain the reasons why men wanted to conform and could bring to light reasons why some men would want to rebel from the norm. The idea of the business suit was also seen as a symbol for universal masculinity and spreads across various countries and social hierarchies. In Material Strategies: Dress and Gender in Historical Perspective by Barbara Burman and Carole Turbin it is said that ‘by the outbreak of the second world war, the majority of British men of all social groups wore a suit for many occasions’ (Burman and Turbin, 2002:56). This is seen as the beginning of the rise of the suit and enabled men of different social status to appear the same. The suit became a key item in the man’s wardrobe and could be worn for any occasion. ‘(the suit) was for several decades a symbol of mass male dress’ (Burman and Turbin, 2002:57). The idea that the suit could be worn by any man meant that it became a symbol for male dress and was used as a garment to identify the man from the woman, thus making it into a sort of uniform for the man. The popularity of the suit could have been down to the image it represented. The suit was ‘undoubtedly a sensible look - in contrast to earlier forms of male dress - was relevant to the contemporary making of masculinity, the key features of which were respectability, rationality, sobriety and diligence’ (Honeyman, 2002:58-76). The suit signified ideas that were considered masculine by society as discussed previously. Men wanted to be seen as respectful and reliable within society and the suit was a perfect way to portray this. Men wanted to maintain traditional values of masculinity and the ‘sensible look’ (Honeyman, 2002:56-76) of the suit provided this. The adoption of the suit by men everywhere meant that men could create an identity for themselves that reflect social ideals, in a way concealing their true identities and creating new Page of7 42
  • 8. personas that would be accepted. ‘The suit is beginning to be perceived as a uniform which conceals a persons identity, rather than a costume which reveals it’ (Crane, 2000:174). Men did not concern themselves with dressing to express their own identity but instead they could dress in this newly constructed male uniform without ridicule from society. If a man was wearing a suit, the immediate response would be that this man was masculine and respectable, something that men at the time thought was socially acceptable. This meant that ‘Men came to resemble one another, which was exactly what they wanted’ (Honeyman, 2002:56-57). If a man resembled other men, they would be seen as normal. This raises the question of men wanting to conform to this idea of masculinity, did they actually want to do this or were they too reluctant to deviate from the norm and experiment with styles of dress? ‘Many men are reluctant to project an image that deviates from the norms’ (Crane, 2000:179). Men could be hiding behind the image of the suit due to their fear of experimentation and again fear of ridicule from society. If the suit is considered to be a staple for masculinity, it is important to think about how far the suit can be altered before it is then considered un-masculine. In the book Body Dressing: Dress, Body, Culture by Joanne Entwistle and Elizabeth B. Wilson (2001) two images are presented of radical variations of the suit. ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Page of8 42 Fig. 1. Fig. 2.
  • 9. Fig. 1. and Fig. 2. show the ‘half suit’ and the ‘one shoulder shirt’ from Phillip Garner’s Better Living catalogue in 1982. When discussing these images the author writes ’Consider why the images of a man in an off-the shoulder dress shirt or a lounge suit with an exposed midriff are humorous’ (Entwistle and Wilson, 2000:247). With the authors comment in mind it is important to consider why slight alterations to a garment considered highly masculine can drastically change society’s perception of it. Exposed midriffs and one shoulder garments are primarily considered feminine, combining these with something such as the suit ultimately takes away the masculinity and society rejects it as a masculine staple. What is important to consider here, especially with regard to the ‘half suit’, is that the key elements of the traditional suit are present. A strong lapel and broad shoulders are fundamental when portraying masculinity through the wearing of a suit so why is this particular variation considered less normal or less masculine than the traditional? ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Page of9 42
  • 10. Chapter 2: The influence of gay subculture and popular culture and true androgyny. ! After pointing out the social influence that society has on masculinity and the masculine staple, the suit, it is now important to discuss influences from gay subcultures and popular culture as well as ideas surrounding the term androgyny. The influences of these cultures is closely related to the previous ideas of social influence on gender identity because a change in the views of society could have been a key reason behind the rise of these cultures and the influence they have had on not just the menswear fashion industry but male dress as a whole. This subject area could be considered the most important with regard to this paper as these cultures have probably influenced the industry the most in terms of gender boundary blurring. These influences have pushed the industry to become more experimental and could see the elimination of gender boundaries all together in the future. A key theme to discuss here is the social change and the rise of the gay subcultures that emerged in the late 1960’s and 1970’s and the series of influences that progressed from these. In the book The Face of Fashion: Cultural Studies In Fashion by Jennifer Craik (2003) it is raised that ‘new themes appeared in the 1970’s such gender subversion’’ (Craik, 2003:185) . These themes saw a shift in social perception with regard to gender and society became more open-minded and experimental. This change enabled an open minded attitude towards gay culture and allowed aspects of the culture to flourish. ’Gay subcultures were able to flourish more openly in Europe and the United States. Members of these subcultures questioned existing definitions of masculinity and femininity and experimented with gender identities’ (Craik, 2003: 193). The experimentation with these gender identities sparked a cultural change and led society as whole to question these predetermined gender identity rules. The term ‘homosexual’ was now not used purely to define sexual orientation but it was a representation of a certain lifestyle. ’To be homosexual, lesbian, queer is a recent phenomenon whose social identity is built more on a way of life - mores, Page of10 42
  • 11. mannerisms and clothes - than on an isolated act’ (Geczy, 2013: 13). In the past these terms would be used to define the sexual preference of a person but as times were changing, society now saw these terms as a descriptive for the way people of this culture dressed and lived their life and this influenced the fashion industry a great deal. This would progress into the 1990’s and ’’Members of gay subcultures become tastemakers for the rest of the population, popularising products, clothes, and haircuts’ (Crane, 2000: 194). A key example of this is the 1995 advertisements for Jean Paul Gaultier’s male fragrance ‘le male’. Fig. 3. shows the 1995 fragrance advertisement in question. The important thing to point out here is that this advertisement is not purely aimed at gay men although there are strong symbolic gay references and although society may consider the gay man to be un-masculine this may not be the case. The idea of two men appearing in the advertisement with little clothing is vital to discuss here as this deviated from usual marketing techniques used within the media and previous ‘rules’ for masculinity. As mentioned above, ’Contemporary masculinity as expressed in the media has four principle features: (1) Physical power and control that are identified with the male body, (2) Hetrosexuality, (3) Occupational achievement in jobs that are identified as ‘mens work’, and (4) A patriarchal family role’’ (Crane, 2000:179). In order to understand these rules it is important to Page of11 42 Fig. 3.
  • 12. discuss each one separately to understand if the advertisement in question varied from what was considered normal at the time or in fact represented the rules of masculinity discussed above even though society may disagree. The first example, ‘physical power and control that are identified with the male body’ (Crane, 2000:179), brings to attention ideas that to be masculine a man must express physical power and control. It could be argued that this advertisement represents this ‘rule’ and could still be considered highly masculine due to the muscular physics on display and a feeling of strength and power which is portrayed through the arm wrestle taking place between the models even though there are ‘gay’ connotations, for example the sailor uniforms. The second example to discuss, ‘hetrosexuality’ (Crane, 2000:179), is interesting because this advertisement could be considered highly homosexual but highly masculine at the same time. The gay connotations such as the sailor uniforms combined with representation of physical strength raises the point that homosexuals and men belonging to gay subcultures still poses a masculine image and sexual orientation, or in this case the clothing, does not have any effect on this. The third example of how masculinity was expressed in the media is ‘occupational achievement in jobs that are identified as ‘men’s work’.’ (Crane, 2000:179). When referring to the advert in question it is apparent that the models are sailors. This in itself could be considered ‘men’s work’ due to the labouring required and the sailor uniform, something which has now become symbolic for gay cultures, does not alter this fact. A point to consider here is that the clothing in which a man wears, whether considered feminine or not, does not alter the man’s masculinity and should therefore not be brought into question by society. The final example refers to a man being considered masculine is they poses ‘a patriarchal family role’ (Crane, 2000:179). This example, although not referenced in the advertisement in question is important to consider. A man does not have to necessarily follow predetermined ideas of masculinity in order to have a successful family life and the way a man dresses would have little or no effect on the people they surround themselves with. Page of12 42
  • 13. This advert, when looked at in depth, in-fact follows the ‘rules’ outlined above with regard to advertising masculinity but does it in an experimental way with an attempt to both follow and break ideals of masculinity. Although there are combinations of what is considered masculine and feminine the advert still appeals to both straight and gay males. This could indicate that perceptions on gender identity have progressed somewhat in the sense that these advertisement rules are now being played with and some-what altered. The rise of gay subculture and the acceptance of this from society could be the main reason for this change. Men were now experimenting with different ideals of masculinity and new forms of expressing this were being explored. A rise in gay subculture also lead to other forms of experimentation with gender and dress during this period. Experimentation with cross dressing and gender play, especially within popular culture was now at the forefront of society and aspects from this are still recognised within male fashion today. ‘The burring of gender and sexual boundaries had become prevalent across a range of entertainment mediums, from fashion catwalks to pop music, especially the so-called New Romantics’ (Geczy, 2013: 37). Musicians such as David Bowie were noted for their ‘transvestite image, with dress, and eye make-up’ (Crane, 2000:186). These musicians were the first, it appears, to challenge gender boundaries within popular culture as they experimented publicly with products that were previously described as ‘feminine’. ‘Popular English and American entertainers of the 1980s such as David Bowie questioned perceived notions of masculinity’ (Mosse, 1998:186). To gain an insight into the progression of these themes It is also important to look at present day examples of this. It is evident that popular culture icons from the 1980’s have had an influence on present day fashion. Musicians such as rapper Kanye West have been known to adopt more feminine styles of dress, albeit not as drastic of those from the 1980s, whilst still maintaining an undoubtably masculine persona. See Fig.4 and Fig. 5: ! ! Page of13 42
  • 14. ! Fig. 4 and Fig. 5 show images of rapper Kanye West performing on tour. The images show the rapper wearing a leather skirt, something which would primarily be considered as feminine. What is important here is the idea that the wearing of this garment does not make us question the artist’s gender or masculinity but instead it makes us consider that he is making a statement and merely showing an interest in high fashion. In this instance it is clear that the artist will still be considered masculine due to characteristics and persona and they way he chooses to dress himself has little impact on this. Adaptation of these more feminine styles and the people who experiment with these is key when answering the questions raised in this paper. It is vital here to consider that these popular culture icons are challenging ideals of masculinity and are dressing in un-conventional ways but are still regarded as masculine figures. In order to make a broad argument it is important to consider if these changes exist primarily in popular culture of if the average man shares this experimentation. Adam Geczy, author of the book Queer Style makes an important comment when discussing this new experimentation with gender bending. ‘’In many contemporary societies, individuals exhibiting non-normative or transgressive gender behaviours and identities may be treated with ridicule, fear and/or disrespect’’ (Geczy, 2013:123). What is vital to consider here are the reasons why experimentation in this way is acceptable for icons in the public eye but could be Page of14 42 Fig. 4. Fig.5.
  • 15. considered un-natural to the average male in society. If perceptions were changing though out entertainment outlets then why would they be different in the city streets?. It was discussed in chapter one that reasoning for the rise of the business suit could have been down to many men being ‘reluctant to project an image that deviates from the norms’ (Crane, 2000:179). It raises the point that these icons in the public eye may not considered normal people within society and thus are protected from being ridiculed for experimenting with these styles. What comes to mind here is the idea that although there has been notable change surrounding gender boundaries, it simply exists within the media and entertainment outlets such as fashion catwalks and does not apply to the average male on the street. Something which is very important in the images of the artist above is his adoption of a garment, the skirt, which is or was considered highly feminine. ‘’In western cultures, the popularisation of ‘women’s’ dress fro men, via a garment such as the ‘skirt’, would constitute a significant re-alignment of categories of gender and clothing’’ (Craik, 1994:203). Influences discussed above now inspired high-end designers to experiment with more radical styles and Kanye West wearing a Givenchy skirt as pictured above is a key example of this. This raises interesting points with regard to androgynous or unisex dress and it is now important to discuss the term androgyny to determine the terms actually definition vs it’s newly constructed definition. In the Collins dictionary the term androgyny is defined as ‘having male and female characteristics; hermaphrodite’ (Collins Dictionaries, 2015). It is first important to point out that ‘hermaphrodite’ refers to biological sex and the actual body of a person, it does not refer to the way in which a person dresses or displays themselves. It has become apparent that in present day cultures, the term androgyny is used to describe something that may appear as both masculine and feminine but in- fact is not. An adoption of this word by the fashion industry has now meant that the word has taken on a new, almost cooler meaning and the true identity of the word has been lost. The skirt is a key example of a garment that signifies a certain gender and ’The crudest example of this is evident in Page of15 42
  • 16. the icons used to distinguish male and female public lavatories, which almost invariably show men in bifurcated garments and women in a skirt’ (Entwistle, 141:2000). If these symbols were altered or for instance a male wore a skirt it would most likely be described by society as androgynous. After determining the true meaning of the term it becomes clear that this term is still a descriptive of gender difference. If gender boundaries were extinct there would be no need to use this term to describe when a gender adopts a garment deemed appropriate for the opposite gender. ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Page of16 42
  • 17. Chapter Three:- JW Anderson and The Future For Gender Boundaries. ! For the concluding chapter of this paper it is important to discuss the key inspiration for this paper and the future of the menswear fashion industry after taking into consideration the influences discussed previously. As discussed in the introductory paragraph the work of emerging menswear designer JW Anderson is the key inspiration for the topics being discussed here particularly his A/W 2013 collection. JW Anderson is a key designer with regards to this topic and his work challenges gender boundaries with an aim to shock the audience. In the previous chapter the term androgyny was looked considered with a focus on the correct definition and the newly fashionable description of the word. This collection, by many, has been described as an androgynous collection so it is important to study this collection to both gain knowledge on society’s views and to determine if gender boundaries are really becoming extinct. Fig. 6, 7, 8 and 9 show examples of the collection in question. ! ! ! ! ! ! Page of17 42 Fig. 6 JW Anderson A/W13: Look 23 Fig.7 JW Anderson A/W13: Look 35 Fig.8 JW Anderson A/W13: Look 7 Fig.9 JW Anderson A/W13: Look 20
  • 18. At first glance, it is clear that this collection is a play on traditional ideals of gender identity. As seen in Figs 5 and 6 there is a play here with the idea of the man wearing a suit. In both of these images traditional suit styles and fabrics have been used but have undeniable feminine elements. This refers back to the point discussed above when considering how far the suit can be altered before it no longer represents a masculine image. The idea of a tailoring fabric and a suit jacket being used in the forms of a dress plays with this idea and raises questions about the garments masculinity, it is important here to consider points raised above that this would not alter the masculinity of the male wearing the garments. As well as playing with the idea of the suit, it is also important here to look at the wearing of a dress for the man. Although the garments in Figs 3 and 4 are, on first glance, considered to be for women the masculine attributes of the male body, such as the arms and shoulders are on show and could in turn make these garments appear very masculine. In order to fully study the collection it is important to look at reactions and reviews of this collection by both fashion industry insiders and the general public. It is vital to study fashion reviews as well as reactions from the average person on the street as a person who is knowledgeable about fashion may view the collection in a slightly different way than a person who does not. Jessica Bumpus, a writer for Vogue.com, wrote that ‘Anderson loves to subvert and push and blur the boundaries when it comes to that menswear-womenswear, womenswear-to-menswear aesthetic’ (Bumpus, 2013) describing the collection as ‘interesting, clever, captivating and new.’ (Bumpus, 2013). This is an interesting reaction and attention must be paid to the fact that this writer is a fashion writer so various aspects of the collection will be reviewed rather than it’s pure shock value. As quoted above Jo-Ann Furniss, a writer for Style.com, says the collection is ‘intended to reconfigure both menswear and womenswear, and to give a kick up the arse to the stale state of much of men's fashion at the moment.’ (Furniss, 2013). Both reporters appear to have positive reactions to the collection, making a point that this is something that the menswear industry needed and implying that current menswear is in a ‘stale state’ (Furniss, 2013). It is important to Page of18 42
  • 19. understand that fashion insiders review collections in more depth than the average person, and that these reporters applaud designers for producing something interesting and fresh no matter how shocking the garments may appear to the general public. What is also important to remember is that websites such as Style.com and vogue have very fashion orientated audiences and may not appeal to a wide range of people. These reviews must be compared against reactions from the general public as these reactions will be vital when discussing the future of menswear fashion from societies perspective. An article by Murray Healy in the online version of the newspaper The Guardian raises some interesting points about the collection and comments from the readers help to understand reactions from the general public. As this publication is not primarily about fashion the comments are from a broad range of people and are not just focused within the fashion industry. Healy writes that ‘elements from womenswear were grafted in with an uncompromising bluntness that emasculated the male models’ (Healy, 2013). Although the author appears to have good reactions to the collection this statement is interesting because the word ‘emasculated’ (Healy, 2013) is used. The author is stating that the feminine elements are somehow making the models less masculine which is not the case. As discussed in chapters one and two, the clothing a person wears does not in- fact alter how masculine or feminine they are. What is important and of use from this article is the reader comments located below. A key theme from these comments appears to be that the collection is bad with one reader writing ‘This is fashion? Looks to me like a load of shit. I mean men just ain't gonna wear this crap, and I really don't think women are either’ (Cheveguara, 2013) and another writing ‘Next time I want to get beaten-up, I'll buy one of Mr. Anderson's creations. (or a copy - not wanting to get blood stains on the overpriced tat’ (1649, 2013). Both of these reactions are very important to study as both come from average people within society so reflect a more general view than that from people within the fashion industry. The commenter 1649 implies that if he were to wear these garments he would in-fact get ‘beaten-up’ (1649, 2013) suggesting that the garments in question would not be accepted by the rest of society and would put him in a position Page of19 42
  • 20. where he would be ridiculed. The title of the article in question is ‘The radical unisex designs of JW Anderson’ (Healy, 2013). The word ‘unisex’ is generally used to describe something which is for both the male and the female. It is important that the word is used to describe this collection as it is not in-fact intended to be worn by women at all and was primarily designed as menswear. With regard to this point one commenter wrote ‘Unisex . . . if you want to look like a complete prat’ (Myopicus, 2013) with one replying with the comment ‘@Myopicus - unisex yes, but only if you wish to look like a poorly dressed woman…’ (Santinox, 2013). Both responses rebel against the idea that this collection could be unisex and imply that this collection should be worn by women and not men. This relates back to the idea of women adopting men’s styles being more socially acceptable than men adopting feminine styles. In order to gain a broader understanding of social perceptions on both the menswear fashion industry and the JW Anderson collection in question, a questionnaire was carried out (see appendix 1 & 2 for full survey and responses). Responses were collected from 45 people of both genders, various ages and different professional backgrounds. The questionnaire named The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions asked respondents various questions regarding the JW Anderson collection and also touched on masculinity with an aim to understand reactions from society regarding play with gender dress codes. Before collecting responses on the collection it is first important to understand societies understanding of the word masculinity. Question two asked the respondents what words came to mind when thinking about the word ‘’masculine’’ and how would they define masculinity. A key theme from this question relates to the physical strength of a person, generally focusing on the man’s body. One respondent wrote ‘’Muscles, able to lift heavy objects, loud, boastful, strong’' (#3, 2014) and another wrote ‘’Macho, manly, strong, assertive, strong jaw, rugged, bold, powerful, stallion’’ (#12, 2014). Many of the answers listed here refer specifically to physical appearance and it appears that the respondents associate masculinity with physical strength rather than biological sex. It is important to note that Page of20 42
  • 21. the respondents had not initially pointed out that to be masculine is to be male gendered. If society deems masculinity to reflect physical strength it could have an impact on the way they view menswear fashion and how they associate dress with the male body. It was then asked if the way we dress defines the man or the woman, which is important to this particular study as it could provide answers on how far gender boundaries have or can be pushed. The majority of the 45 people asked responded with yes answers and explained that dress does in-fact define the man or the woman. Some respondents however, raised an interesting point that this is only because of societies perceptions with one respondent commenting that ‘It has an impact on how one is perceived but wouldn't define whether or not you are masculine or feminine. Although generalisations will be based on stereotypical masculine or feminine traits and behaviours and whether or not one dresses to far out/differently from the norm’ (#21, 2014). What is important here is the word ‘Stereotypical’ and the idea that masculinity and femininity are now stereotypes and are not understood in their correct terms. This respondent raises an interesting point that generalisations from society are the reason behind social perception of gender dress and without these generalisations maybe experimentation in dress would be more acceptable. Picking up on this point another participant wrote ‘I think the way we dress is a decision on who we want to be perceived, masculine and feminine values are part of that, but it depends on how much emphasis the individual feels the need to be defined by gender binary’ (#14, 2014). What is vital to evaluate here is the idea that it is down to how much value the individual places on gender identity rather then how much society judges it. If an individual is comfortable with their own gender identity, shouldn't they be able to dress and portray themselves how they choose?. Considering the points raised in chapter one regarding dressing for conformity one participant answered this particular question with ‘yes, it gives the wearer an identity and often represents the group in which they involved’ (#8, 2014). This leads back to the idea of men being concerned about the possibility of ridicule. Society, in this case males, Page of21 42
  • 22. feel comfortable if involved in or associated with a particular identity or group and it is apparent that dress plays a key part in establishing this. During the questionnaire it was important to review peoples reactions on the JW Anderson collection that was the primary source of inspiration for this paper. In order to do this an image of the collection in focus was presented to the participants during the survey. ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Fig 10. shows the image that was presented to the participants during the survey. Question four asked what the initial response was to this image. Overall responses to this image from the 45 people questioned were negative with many stating that the image was unusual. A key word that arose from these answers was the word ‘feminine’ with one writing ‘It's looks like a feminine outfit don't think id be attracted to a guy if he wore this, just think his cross dressing!’ (#2, 2014) and another writing ‘Feminine, not how you would describe masculine’ (#12, 2014). Both of these answers reiterate the point that certain garments have feminine connotations and these could be too deep routed to allow for experimentation. Some respondents commented that although this appears feminine as it is, it could be slightly altered to become more masculine. One person wrote ‘It does indeed appear to be feminine, had he of wore trousers then not necessarily so much’ (#4, 2014) and another wrote ‘The fact that he is wearing a dress doesn’t really look any different to everyday menswear that we see in places like GQ, if worn with trousers would just look like a normal outfit Page of22 42 Fig.10.
  • 23. for a male. It was more the bare legs and boots that give the whole outfit a feminine focus’ (#3, 2014). Both respondents make the point here that this outfit could in-fact be styled differently to appear more masculine. The image in question is taken from a catwalk show and this could be the reason for the dramatic styling. The designer wanted to exaggerate the femininity of the collection to add shock value but when broken down and re-styled the garments could in-fact be very appealing to the everyday male. This refers back to the point made in chapter two with regard to drastic styles being more socially acceptable within popular culture and entertainment outlets such as fashion catwalks. A few respondents picked up on this with one writing that the image was ‘High end, pushing social boundaries on men’s dressing.’ (#14, 2014) and another writing that it is ‘high fashion, not high street’ (#33, 2014). It appears that these drastic takes on menswear fashion are prominent within high fashion but will there be a time when high street retailers adopt these styles and filter them into mainstream fashion? It was then asked what words came to mind to describe a man who wore an outfit such as the image above. Almost all of the results indicated that the people asked would describe the individual as ‘gay’ or ‘feminine’ with some results using the word ‘cross dressing’. This could be a result of long-term stereotypes of certain pieces of clothing and the fact that from a young age society is told that one thing is for the woman and another for the man, referring back to the point discussed above about gender symbols. Another result that is apparent throughout the answers of this question is that the individual is brave. One interviewee writes ‘Interesting, different, brave, confident’ (#5, 2014) and another writing ‘Bold, Brave, Adventurous, Confident’ (#41, 2014). It is interesting that the word brave appears a lot within these answers because it raises questions about why this is considered brave. Should an individual have to be brave in order to dress in a certain way and why does this only appear to be applicable to men? When considering that rules may be different for men and for women, it was asked if the respondents feel if the menswear fashion industry is as important as womenswear and if it can be as experimental with it’s designs. Page of23 42
  • 24. Something which came up a lot through these answers was that menswear fashion is a lot safer than womenswear. One individual wrote ‘Men’s fashion is very ‘safe’’ (#33, 2014) and another wrote that ‘Can be boring but safe. Not prepared to take the same risks as womenswear.’ (#28, 2014). It is apparent that womenswear is more renowned, especially in Europe, for being experimental with it’s designs. Menswear, although progressing, is still concerned with tradition and is more reigned in that womenswear. One response of interest states ‘male fashion is a lot more boring than women's. Women have a lot more variety whereas men are pretty limited. And it's known that fashion is more of a female interest then men. But then again it is changing and much more men are becoming more fashion aware.’ (#12, 2014). It is apparent that society feels that menswear fashion is growing as an industry and more and more men are taking an interest in both high fashion and experimental design. With many participants stating that they felt menswear was safer and even boring it shows that society could be ready for experimentation and something fresh. The questionnaire proved vital when understanding the nature of this study as answers were given from every day people within society and the answers provide interesting insights into social perception. These results combined with topics discussed in chapters one and two help develop a broad argument about the state of menswear fashion today with regard to gender boundaries. ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Page of24 42
  • 25. Conclusion. ! To conclude this study it is important to evaluate points raised in all three chapters to determine if menswear fashion has developed with regard to burring gender identity boundaries. During the first chapter gender identity was discussed and it raised points that gender is today seen as a physicality. When considering the male gender, it was concluded that society associates this with physical power, strength and trustworthiness rather than biological sex. A very important topic that was discussed within this chapter was that of universal masculinity and the rise of the suit. The particular research was greatly important as it surfaced ideas about why the male gender shy away from adventurous design ideas and helped to understand reasons for male conformity and the reasons why society male ridicule them for being different. The idea of simplicity in dress, in this instants the suit, enabled the male race to appear reliable and normal. If dressed in a similar way they would be seen as other men and therefore there would be no doubt of character. The idea that the suit was used as a form of uniform for many men is a key example of this and although the suit is still widely worn today, it is clear to see that other styles have replaced the suit and men are conforming less. Aspects of this are still seen within menswear fashion today, it appears, but more experimental designers such as JW Anderson appear to be challenging this. Some, but not all men, are becoming more open to radical design and are less concerned with social reaction. Chapter two looked at the influences from popular and gay subcultures and touched on the term androgyny and it’s true meaning. It is clear from the information gathered that both popular cultures and gay subcultures have had a major impact on the menswear fashion industry. The rise of gay subcultures from the 1970’s proposed new styles of dress and a new way for men to experiment with their style and personal appearance. Fig. 3. shows a Jean Paul Gaultier advertisement which is a key representation of this. It appears that during this time men and society as a whole were Page of25 42
  • 26. becoming more open to different styles but it seems that they were only apparent throughout gay subcultures and the every day male would participate slightly but would still shy away in some way. A key thing to be taken away from this chapter was the analysis of Kanye West wearing a Givenchy skirt. This was powerful research as it helped to understand the possibility that someone in the public eye has the opportunity to experiment more and not be ridiculed by society. Kanye is well known for a masculine persona and being involved in the rap industry helps this so the idea of him wearing something such as the skirt does not effect societies opinion of him. The rapper may not be considered a ‘normal’ person and so if an average male of the street were to adopt a style like this there would be a different reaction from society. Another important element within this chapter is the definition of the word androgyny. The JW Anderson collection in question was, by many, described using this term so it was vital to understand it’s true meaning. After considering the true meaning of the term it is apparent that the word now takes on a new, cooler meaning and is not used in the correct way when referring to fashion. The collection is in-fact not androgynous because the use of the term means that the collection still has some form of gender boundary. If the collection were truly androgynous then there would be would be no gender distinction. The final chapter discussed the inspiration for this paper, JW Anderson, and analysed feedback from fashion insiders and the general public with regard to gender identity blurring within menswear fashion. The results from the questionnaire were valuable when trying to understand social perception of male dress and the gender rules that surround it. It became clear through the results of this questionnaire that the majority of society are not ready to accept radical designs such as JW Anderson’s and it appears that this is mainly down to social perception and deep routed ideas of masculinity and femininity. That being said, it is very clear that there has been a change in social perception in recent times and the results from the questionnaire regarding menswear fashion as a whole state that the designs are stale and could be more experimental. This proves that men are Page of26 42
  • 27. willing to accept experimental design but at a slower pace than womenswear and this could mean that radical high-end designs could, in time, be widely accepted by men. When considering all of the points raised in this paper it could be said that gender boundaries are in-fact becoming extinct within menswear fashion but at a much slower pace than seen in womenswear design. Experimentation with gender appears to be very prominent within high fashion outlets as well as popular culture but the average man on the street still seems weary about adopting these design ideas. Figures within popular and gay cultures such as Bowie from the 1980’s and Kanye West in present day have kickstarted a re-alignment within menswear fashion with regard to gender boundaries and figures such as these are becoming role models for the average male. Continued experimentation with gender dress from figures in the spotlight and designers such as JW Anderson will mean gender boundary extinction in future years. It is clear to see that some men are more open to these styles and it will take a re-education on both gender and dress to re- configure the views of the rest of society. ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Page of27 42
  • 28. List Of Illustrations. ! ! Figure 1. Garner, Phillip (1982) The Half Suit [Photograph] At: Better Living Catalogue, Phillip Garner (Accessed on 10.10.2014) ! Figure 2. Garner, Phillip (1982) The One Shoulder Shirt [Photograph] At Better Living Catalogue, Phillip Garner (Accessed on 10.10.2014) ! Figure 3. Le Male. Jean Paul Gaultier (1995) [Advertisement] At: http://www.thenonblonde.com/ 2010/11/jean-paul-gaultier-le-male.html#.VLQpyGSsVbs (Accessed on 05.09.2014) ! Figure 4. Kanye West On Tour (2012) [Photography] At: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/ article-2275717/Kanye-West-demands-picture-agency-deletes-photographs-wearing-leather- skirt.html (Accessed on 03/10/2014) ! Figure 5. Kanye West On Tour (2012) [Photograph] At: http://www.kanyetothe.com/forum/ index.php?topic=295316.0 (Accessed on 03/10/2014) ! Figure 6. JW Anderson A/W13: Look 23 (2013) [Photograph] At: http://www.style.com/slideshows/ fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/j-w-anderson/collection/23 (Accessed on 03/10/2014) ! Figure. 7. JW Anderson A/W13: Look 35 (2013) [Photograph] At: http://www.style.com/slideshows/ fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/j-w-anderson/collection/35 (Accessed on 03/10/2014) ! Figure. 8. JW Anderson A/W13: Look 7 (2013) [Photograph] At: http://www.style.com/slideshows/ fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/j-w-anderson/collection/7 (Accessed on 03/10/2014) ! Figure. 9. JW Anderson A/W13: Look 20 (2013) [Photograph] At: http://www.style.com/ slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/j-w-anderson/collection/20 (Accessed on 03/10/2014) ! Figure. 10. JW Anderson A/W13: Look 23 (2013) [Photograph] At: http://www.style.com/ slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/j-w-anderson/collection/23 (Accessed on 03/10/2014) ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Page of28 42
  • 29. Bibliography. ! Bumpus, Jessica (2013) ‘JW Anderson’ In: vogue.com [online] At: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/ autumn-winter-2013/mens/jw-anderson (Accessed on 15.12.2014) ! Burman, Barbara & Turbin, Carole (2003) Material Strategies: Dress and Gender In Historical Perspective. Hoboken: Wiley Publishing. ! Cheveguara. (2013) ‘The radical unisex designs of JW Anderson’ [online] At: http:// www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/jun/01/radical-unisex-designs-jw-anderson. (Accessed on 15.12.2014) ! Collin’s Dictionaries (2015) ‘Androgynous’ definition [online] At: http:// www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/androgyny?showCookiePolicy=true (Accessed on 03.10.2014) ! Craik, Jennifer (2003) The Face Of Fashion: Cultural Studies In Fashion. Routledge Publishing. ! Crane, Diana (2000) Fashion and It’s Social Agendas. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press. ! Entwistle, Joanne and Wilson, Elizabeth (2001) Body Dressing: Dress, Body, Culture. London: Bloomsbury Academic. ! Entwistle, Joanne (2000) The Fashioned Body. Hoboken, NJ: Wiley Publishing. ! Furniss, Jo-Ann. (2013) ‘JW Anderson Fall 2013 Menswear’ In: Style.com [online] At: http:// www.style.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/j-w-anderson (Accessed on 03.10.2014) ! Geczy, Adam (2013) Queer Style London: Bloomsbury Academic. ! Honeyman, Katrina (2003) Following Suit: Men, Masculinity and Gendered Practices in the Clothing Trade in Leeds, England, 1990-1940. In: Lynn Abrams, Sarah Chambers, Tracey Deutsch, Eleanor Gordon, Mary Jo Maynes, and Alexandra Shepard (ed.) Gender & History. Oxford: John Wiley & Sons. pp. 56-76 ! Kidwell, Claudia & Steel, Valerie (1989) Men And Women: Dressing The Part. Indiana: Smithsonian Institution Press. ! Mosse, George (1998) The Image Of Man: The Creation Of Modern Masculinity. Oxford: Oxford University Press. ! Murray, Healy (2013) ‘The radical unisex designs of JW Anderson’ In: theguardian.com [online] At: http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/jun/01/radical-unisex-designs-jw-anderson (Accessed on 15.12.2014) ! Myopicus. (2013) ‘The radical unisex designs of JW Anderson’ [online] At: http:// www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/jun/01/radical-unisex-designs-jw-anderson. (Accessed on 15.12.2014) Page of29 42
  • 30. Santinox. (2013) ‘The radical unisex designs of JW Anderson’ [online] At: http:// www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/jun/01/radical-unisex-designs-jw-anderson. (Accessed on 15.12.2014) ! 1649. (2013) ‘The radical unisex designs of JW Anderson’ [online] At: http:// www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/jun/01/radical-unisex-designs-jw-anderson. (Accessed on 15.12.2014) ! #2 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th March 2014. ! #3 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th March 2014. ! #4 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th March 2014. ! #5 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th March 2014. ! #8 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th March 2014. ! #12 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th March 2014. ! #14 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th March 2014. ! #21 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th March 2014. ! #28 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th March 2014. ! #33 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th March 2014. ! #41 (2014) The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions 11th March 2014. ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Page of30 42
  • 31. Appendices One: ! ! The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions - Questionnaire. ! ! Question 1:- Firstly, are you male or female? ! ! ! Question 2:- When thinking about the word ‘’Masculine’’ what words come to mind and how would you define masculinity? ! Question 3:- Do you think that the way we dress defines the man or the women? ! Question 4:- This is an image for the A/W 13 menswear collection by JW Anderson. Page of31 42 Male Female ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
  • 32. Question 4:- When looking at the previous image, what is your initial response? ! Question 5:- Do you think that men dressing in this way changes how masculine they are? ! Question 6:- What would you think of the man that wore an outfit such as this? List words that come to mind: ! Question 7:- Do you think that there will come a time when men and women can wear the same styles of clothing regardless of their gender? (For example, men wearing dresses) ! ! ! ! ! Page of32 42 ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
  • 33. Question 8:- What are your feelings on the menswear fashion industry - Do you think it is as important as womenswear and do you think it can be as experimental? ! Question 9:- Finally, please list words that come to mind to describe menswear fashion today: ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Page of33 42 ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
  • 34. Appendices 2:- Questionnaire responses: The Menswear Fashion Industry - Collection Review and Social Perceptions. ! Question 1:- Firstly are you female or male? !!Question 2:- When thinking about the word ''Masculine'' what words come to mind and how would you define masculinity? !men and manly 1/1/2015 10:56 PM Aftershave. Muscle. Strength. Hairy. - someone to watch over me. 12/30/2014 10:35 PM Men Power. 12/30/2014 10:33 PM Man who is strong. 12/30/2014 10:30 PM Strong man. 12/30/2014 10:11 PM Man well dressed and reserved. 12/30/2014 9:28 PM s Old fashioned and courteous. Being willing to put others first, not afraid of sacrifice or pain. 12/30/2014 9:10 PM sharp jaw line, muscle, toned, smart, clean lines, clean shaven. 12/30/2014 9:08 PM s Strong, attitude, androgynous. 12/30/2014 8:32 PM Not feminine Typically male. 12/30/2014 4:50 PM Muscles,rugged,unshaven hunky men ooh lovely. 12/30/2014 10:22 AM Sexist. I think the definition of masculinity is changing hopefully from old big, strong cliches. 12/30/2014 9:46 AM Male strength. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM Power, obsession, narrow vision. I'd describe masculinity as all empowering. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM manly, muscle, unshaven, after shave,heavy manual worker, rugged. 12/29/2014 10:50 PM Manly strong secure Behaviours that define you as being manly. 12/29/2014 10:34 PM Confident. Manliness. 12/29/2014 10:12 PM Tall, dark, handsome, muscly, gentlemanly, manners. 12/29/2014 10:06 PM Powerful. 12/29/2014 9:39 PM Muscular. Macho. 12/29/2014 9:28 PM strong assertive. 12/29/2014 9:09 PM Masculinity is commonly judged by attracting certain qualities and behaviours, typically of power and strength. Although this is commonly socially defined, while certain attributes possible being innate. 12/29/2014 8:57 PM Strong, man, broad. 12/29/2014 8:12 PM Broad shoulders, moustache , strong features , deep voice. 12/22/2014 6:21 PM Strength, of large build, deep voice, a firm attitude, a leader, strong presence in public and in groups. 12/22/2014 3:00 PM Page of34 42
  • 35. Old fashioned. Chauvinistic. Clean-cut. Definitive. 11/5/2014 9:28 PM Masculinity is an attitude that's determined by social attitudes, it changes on different social classes, social groups, cultures, ages the current era. And of course, to an individual. 11/4/2014 7:42 AM strength, dominant, powerful, robust. 11/3/2014 9:58 PM Macho, manly, strong, assertive, strong jaw, rugged, bold, powerful, stallion. 11/3/2014 9:20 PM grey. straight lines. deep. harsh. 11/3/2014 7:51 PM Masculine is a type of status, also referring to men a lot more than women. 11/3/2014 1:54 PM What comes to mind is the gender male and things that relate to a male stereotypically. 11/3/2014 1:30 PM boxy, tailored and professional. 11/3/2014 1:24 PM Androgynous. 11/3/2014 12:32 PM Strength, physical and mental. 11/3/2014 12:16 PM Manly,beefy, - when a guys masculine he is hands on, gentlemanly but strong. Sometimes dominant. 11/3/2014 11:55 AM Muscles, able to lift heavy objects, loud, boastful, strong. 11/3/2014 11:47 AM A man with a good strong personality, along with a good looking body. 11/3/2014 11:45 AM How much one is perceived as a "man" in society and how one interprets that oneself. 11/3/2014 11:43 AM !Question 3:- Do you think that the way we dress defines the man or the woman? !i think it affects how we feel and how people view us. 1/1/2015 10:56 PM Certainly. 12/30/2014 10:35 PM Yes. 12/30/2014 10:33 PM Yes. 12/30/2014 10:30 PM Yes. 12/30/2014 10:12 PM Yes. 12/30/2014 10:11 PM yes most of the time. 12/30/2014 9:28 PM Man. 12/30/2014 9:10 PM depends on style and where or how an outfit is worn. 12/30/2014 9:08 PM Yes-sometimes. 12/30/2014 8:32 PM Yes-sometimes 12/30/2014 8:32 PM View respondent's answers Yes-sometimes. 12/30/2014 8:31 PM yes. 12/30/2014 4:50 PM Yes. 12/30/2014 10:22 AM Yes. 12/30/2014 9:46 AM yes. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM Yes. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM Depends on the persons personality and persona. 12/29/2014 10:50 PM It's not the only thing but it is probably the first thing you notice. 12/29/2014 10:34 PM Yes. 12/29/2014 10:12 PM yes. 12/29/2014 10:06 PM no. 12/29/2014 9:39 PM Yes. 12/29/2014 9:28 PM no. 12/29/2014 9:09 PM It has an impact on how one is perceived but wouldn't define whether or not you are masculine or feminine. Although generalisations will be based on stereotypical masculine or feminine traits and behaviours and whether or not one dresses to far out/differently from the norm. 12/29/2014 8:57 PM Yes, but only because society has made it that way. 12/29/2014 8:12 PM poss. 12/28/2014 7:11 PM yes. 12/22/2014 6:58 PM yes. 12/22/2014 6:21 PM I don't think it can specifically define a gender but it usually (not always!) goes alongside identifying a male or female. The way we dress can add character and style to a gender and emphasise it if desired. 12/22/2014 3:00 PM Yes. 11/5/2014 9:28 PM I think the way we dress is a decision on who we want to be perceived, masculine and feminine values are part of that, but it depends on how much emphasis the individual feels the need to be defined by gender binary. 11/4/2014 7:42 AM not especially. 11/3/2014 9:58 PM Page of35 42
  • 36. Woman. 11/3/2014 9:20 PM yes. 11/3/2014 7:51 PM the man. 11/3/2014 1:54 PM Yes. 11/3/2014 1:30 PM yes, it gives the wearer an identity and often represents the group in which they involved. 11/3/2014 1:24 PM Not at all. 11/3/2014 12:32 PM No. 11/3/2014 12:16 PM I think people like to think that's the case, but no not always. 11/3/2014 11:55 AM Not really, other areas define a man and woman more like hair/ facial hair, voice. 11/3/2014 11:47 AM I think it can say a lot about a person the way they dress, not sure it defines them. 11/3/2014 11:45 AM Yes as it changes ho people respond to us changing the person we are. 11/3/2014 11:43 AM !!IMAGE FROM THE JW ANDERSON COLLECTION SHOWN HERE. !Question 4:- When looking at the previous image, what is your initial response? !Catwalk gimmickry?. 1/1/2015 10:56 PM View respondent's answers Gay man. 12/30/2014 10:35 PM View respondent's answers Ridiculous. 12/30/2014 10:33 PM View respondent's answers weird. 12/30/2014 10:30 PM View respondent's answers Odd. 12/30/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers Odd. 12/30/2014 10:11 PM View respondent's answers no don't like it at all. 12/30/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers What is 'it' playing at??? I wouldn't even dress like that in the privacy of my own bedroom!. 12/30/2014 9:10 PM View respondent's answers versatile, controversial. Minus the head you would almost think this is an athletic women!. 12/30/2014 9:08 PM View respondent's answers Great boots. 12/30/2014 8:32 PM View respondent's answers high fashion not high street. 12/30/2014 4:50 PM View respondent's answers Oh my god look at those chicken legs. 12/30/2014 10:22 AM View respondent's answers Doesn't really suit him but nice legs. 12/30/2014 9:46 AM View respondent's answers strange. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers Unnerving and uncomfortable. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers wow different !!. 12/29/2014 10:50 PM View respondent's answers Unusual. 12/29/2014 10:34 PM View respondent's answers confident strong brave free. 12/29/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers its not right.. 12/29/2014 10:06 PM View respondent's answers no response. 12/29/2014 9:39 PM View respondent's answers Laughter. 12/29/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers cool. 12/29/2014 9:09 PM View respondent's answers Incredibly unpractical and far from what we would social perceive as normal and masculine. Saying this, I believe it does the purpose of displaying that fashion is evolving, and style is constantly changing. Men's fashion is displaying itself with more feminine qualities as men are becoming more comfortable with women's clothing. This can also be seen and compared to women wearing and becoming comfortable with men's fashion, and this is seen as normal. Therefore, men's fashion is most likely going to take the same route and within time, men will be more comfortable with more feminine clothing. 12/29/2014 8:57 PM View respondent's answers Strange, shocking - controversial. 12/29/2014 8:12 PM View respondent's answers cunt. 12/28/2014 7:11 PM View respondent's answers Confused. 12/22/2014 6:58 PM View respondent's answers Confused. 12/22/2014 6:21 PM View respondent's answers My initial response is that it's a very conflicting image. The garment and boots are items that would usually be adorned in everyday life by females. But they don't look out of place on this male either. 12/22/2014 3:00 PM View respondent's answers Eat some food you mincer!. 11/5/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers High end, pushing social boundaries on men's dressing, but nothing new in terms of feminity in menswear. 11/4/2014 7:42 AM View respondent's answers powerful and brave. 11/3/2014 9:58 PM View respondent's answers Page of36 42
  • 37. Feminine, not how you would describe masculine. 11/3/2014 9:20 PM View respondent's answers he's wearing womens clothing. 11/3/2014 7:51 PM View respondent's answers love the boots. 11/3/2014 1:54 PM View respondent's answers A man shouldn't wear a dress. 11/3/2014 1:30 PM View respondent's answers i think it is none typical of mens wear, however this does not make it better. it looks too feminine and the boots give the impression of some form of fetishism. 11/3/2014 1:24 PM View respondent's answers The future, welcomed change. 11/3/2014 12:32 PM View respondent's answers He forgot his trousers!. 11/3/2014 12:16 PM View respondent's answers It does indeed appear to be feminine, had he of wore trousers then not necessarily so much. 11/3/2014 11:55 AM View respondent's answers The fact that he is wearing a dress doesn't really look any different to everyday menswear that we see in places like GQ, if worn with trousers would just look like a normal outfit for a male. It was more the bare legs and boots that give the whole outfit a feminine focus. 11/3/2014 11:47 AM View respondent's answers It's looks like a feminine outfit don't think id be attracted to a guy if he wore this, just think his cross dressing!. 11/3/2014 11:45 AM View respondent's answers The guy looks pissed off and has a receding hairline. 11/3/2014 11:43 AM View respondent's answers !!Question 5:- Do you think that men dressing in this way changes how masculine they are? !No. It doesn't appear feminine. 1/1/2015 10:56 PM View respondent's answers Absolutely. 12/30/2014 10:35 PM View respondent's answers Yes. 12/30/2014 10:33 PM View respondent's answers yes. 12/30/2014 10:30 PM View respondent's answers Yes. 12/30/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers Yes. 12/30/2014 10:11 PM View respondent's answers no not really just does not look good. 12/30/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers Yes. 12/30/2014 9:10 PM View respondent's answers no, it simply defines their choice of style. 12/30/2014 9:08 PM View respondent's answers No. 12/30/2014 8:32 PM View respondent's answers yes. 12/30/2014 4:50 PM View respondent's answers Yes definitely. 12/30/2014 10:22 AM View respondent's answers It changes peoples perception of how masculine they are - clothing doesn't change who you are - how ridiculous. 12/30/2014 9:46 AM View respondent's answers yes. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers This a catwalk collection not reality. However wearing a dress does not change how masculine they look. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers no but may change other peoples perception. 12/29/2014 10:50 PM View respondent's answers No but would make them stand out. 12/29/2014 10:34 PM View respondent's answers No. 12/29/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers yes. 12/29/2014 10:06 PM View respondent's answers no. 12/29/2014 9:39 PM View respondent's answers Yes. 12/29/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers no. 12/29/2014 9:09 PM View respondent's answers Dressing in a certain way I feel can only impact the way men will be perceived as masculine or more feminine. Men's fashion has changed and a lot of men in fashion are looking for different pieces and styles. Dividing from the norm, if anything I feel this makes men more masculine as they relate to their personality attributes of being bold and strong, in that they are taking risks and not conforming to socially acceptable and normal style. 12/29/2014 8:57 PM View respondent's answers No, they would still be just as masculine but society would view them as less masculine because of how gender is constructed. 12/29/2014 8:12 PM View respondent's answers changes how cunty they are I spose. 12/28/2014 7:11 PM View respondent's answers No. 12/22/2014 6:58 PM View respondent's answers No. 12/22/2014 6:21 PM View respondent's answers Not at all. His physique is still very indicative of that of a male, he has strong features and there is more to a man that defines him than the way he dresses. 12/22/2014 3:00 PM View respondent's answers No. 11/5/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers No, masculinity is an attitude.11/4/2014 7:42 AM View respondent's answers Page of37 42
  • 38. i don't think so but i can see why many others would think yes it does. 11/3/2014 9:58 PM View respondent's answers A little yes, it shouldn't but purely because this is seen to be a feminine look. Dressing in certain ways is how humans like to distinguish gender. 11/3/2014 9:20 PM View respondent's answers no. 11/3/2014 7:51 PM View respondent's answers I do not think so because it is a very gender neutral garment. 11/3/2014 1:54 PM View respondent's answers Yes are a man shouldn't wear a dress as it is abnormal. 11/3/2014 1:30 PM View respondent's answers Yes from the female perspective i would look at them as homosexual regardless of their sexuality. i would not look twice at them as a sex symbol. 11/3/2014 1:24 PM View respondent's answers Not at all. 11/3/2014 12:32 PM View respondent's answers It changes how masculine they look. 11/3/2014 12:16 PM View respondent's answers a little. 11/3/2014 11:55 AM View respondent's answers Not really, can still tell they are men and more masculine than a woman. 11/3/2014 11:47 AM View respondent's answers Yes! Defiantly. 11/3/2014 11:45 AM View respondent's answers Initially no as one should be aware of how masculine they are so changing their attire should not change that. Although over time people would react and approach to someone in that attire and then respond to them differently which may change their interpretation of their own masculinity over time. 11/3/2014 11:43 AM View respondent's answers !Question 6:- What would you think of the man that wore an outfit such as this? List words that come to mind: !Attention seeking. 1/1/2015 10:56 PM View respondent's answers Gay friend. Bitchy. Self obsessed. 12/30/2014 10:35 PM View respondent's answers Gay Feminine. 12/30/2014 10:33 PM View respondent's answers Gay Cross-dress. 12/30/2014 10:30 PM View respondent's answers Bold Brave Adventurous Confident. 12/30/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers feminine. 12/30/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers Weird Unsure of himself. Why?. 12/30/2014 9:10 PM View respondent's answers unique, trendy, slightly odd, possibly trans gender, risky. 12/30/2014 9:08 PM View respondent's answers strong, independent, a trail blazer.. 12/30/2014 8:32 PM View respondent's answers Adventurous Fashionable. 12/30/2014 4:50 PM View respondent's answers Creepy, feminine , yuk. 12/30/2014 10:22 AM View respondent's answers Brave. 12/30/2014 9:46 AM View respondent's answers Feminine Gay. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers Transvestism. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers Confident, different, not afraid. 12/29/2014 10:50 PM View respondent's answers Comfortable in themselves, making a statement, not conforming to the norm. 12/29/2014 10:34 PM View respondent's answers confident brave. 12/29/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers gay, cross dresser, camp.. 12/29/2014 10:06 PM View respondent's answers brave. 12/29/2014 9:39 PM View respondent's answers Exhibitionist Poser Show off. 12/29/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers mindful, cool assertive. 12/29/2014 9:09 PM View respondent's answers Depending on the occasion and surroundings. Clearly it suits the purpose and is displaying what is intended. Runway outfits aren't neccassarily going to be expected to be practible and accepted in the normal, everyday world. 12/29/2014 8:57 PM View respondent's answers Brave, comfortable. 12/29/2014 8:12 PM View respondent's answers massive cunt. 12/28/2014 7:11 PM View respondent's answers Fashion student Student Office worker. 12/22/2014 6:58 PM View respondent's answers Brave (as the majority of society would judge him) Comfortable with himself Self assured Confident. 12/22/2014 3:00 PM View respondent's answers Brave, foolish. 11/5/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers He has some serious balls. 11/4/2014 7:42 AM View respondent's answers risky, brave, confident, tenacious, 11/3/2014 9:58 PM View respondent's answers That he is possibly homosexual. 11/3/2014 9:20 PM View respondent's answers bold. odd. fearless, in a way they are masculine traits, i just automatically think of a dress as womens clothing, wether its masculine/feminine. 11/3/2014 7:51 PM View respondent's answers daring to be different. 11/3/2014 1:54 PM View respondent's answers Page of38 42
  • 39. I would think he was gay. 11/3/2014 1:30 PM View respondent's answers Girly, Not handsome, non masculine, respectively to stand next to a man wearing that it would make me feel manly even though i am a very feminine dresser. 11/3/2014 1:24 PM View respondent's answers Brave, true to self, free, high fashion, luxury. 11/3/2014 12:32 PM View respondent's answers Interesting, different, brave, confident. 11/3/2014 12:16 PM View respondent's answers Possibly more on the feminine side. Really into catwalk fashion. Possibly gay but necessarily. 11/3/2014 11:55 AM View respondent's answers Cross dressing or gender experimentation. 11/3/2014 11:47 AM View respondent's answers Cross dresser Feminine Sensitive. 11/3/2014 11:45 AM View respondent's answers Confident. Bizzare. Unique. Camp. 11/3/2014 11:43 AM View respondent's answers !Question 7:- Do you think that there will come a time when men and woman can wear the same styles of clothing regardless of their gender? (For example, men wearing dresses) !That time has already arrived. 1/1/2015 10:56 PM View respondent's answers I hope not! 12/30/2014 10:35 PM View respondent's answers No. 12/30/2014 10:33 PM View respondent's answers Don't think so. 12/30/2014 10:30 PM View respondent's answers No. 12/30/2014 10:11 PM View respondent's answers yes most probably but a lot of men would not feel comfortable in a dress. 12/30/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers No. I think that men will mainly where masculine clothing, whereas women can wear what ever they like, be it male or female clothing. 12/30/2014 9:10 PM View respondent's answers in some cultures already happens. depends whether it becomes main stream socially acceptable. 12/30/2014 9:08 PM View respondent's answers yes. 12/30/2014 8:32 PM View respondent's answers yes. 12/30/2014 8:31 PM View respondent's answers no. 12/30/2014 4:50 PM View respondent's answers Oh no. 12/30/2014 10:22 AM View respondent's answers No. 12/30/2014 9:46 AM View respondent's answers yes. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers Not in my lifetime. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers Not sure. 12/29/2014 10:50 PM View respondent's answers Certainly things are continually changing making it easier for people to express themselves in what ever way they want. 12/29/2014 10:34 PM View respondent's answers yes. 12/29/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers no. 12/29/2014 10:06 PM View respondent's answers yes. 12/29/2014 9:39 PM View respondent's answers No. 12/29/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers yes. 12/29/2014 9:09 PM View respondent's answers Definitely, I find it is already happening and recently fashion has been quickly evolving and men's fashion is becoming more feminine. 12/29/2014 8:57 PM View respondent's answers Yes, I think more so with women wearing mens clothing although that is already pretty established. I think it will become more and more acceptable for men to adopt female styles. 12/29/2014 8:12 PM View respondent's answers depends don't it. 12/28/2014 7:11 PM View respondent's answers If they did not have a physical job. 12/22/2014 6:58 PM View respondent's answers Yes, I think it's already happening. I just don't think people are as confident as they should be because the majority of society is relentless and vicious towards what is not “normal". 12/22/2014 3:00 PM View respondent's answers No however women have done it for over 100 years. 11/5/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers This already exist in queer theory and a lot of gay culture, and high end design, but when i think on a much broader range of people, religious, social classes, social attitudes and the natural human instinct to feeling like the individual belongs to group that helps them define themselves, it won't happen in popular culture for a long time. 11/4/2014 7:42 AM View respondent's answers in a way there are some men that already do this. many eastern cultures have adopted this way of dress for many years and now more of these men are present in our society, especially in London. i think people should be allowed to wear whatever they want and freely. 11/3/2014 9:58 PM View respondent's answers it could happen, fashion is forever Changing and more and more looks become acceptable and then trend. Page of39 42
  • 40. 11/3/2014 9:20 PM View respondent's answers yes. 11/3/2014 7:51 PM View respondent's answers yes and i think the time has already came. 11/3/2014 1:54 PM View respondent's answers Never as the difference in clothing is what defines whether you are a man or a woman. 11/3/2014 1:30 PM View respondent's answers. 11/3/2014 1:24 PM View respondent's answers Hopefully! Longer length T-shirts are starting to pave that way. 11/3/2014 12:32 PM View respondent's answers No. 11/3/2014 12:16 PM View respondent's answers In society it's more acceptable for women to wear men's clothes than vice versa but it does occur nowadays, just not as blatant as dresses. 11/3/2014 11:55 AM View respondent's answers The time is already now, so many men and women wear clothing to express who they are, the world has become a lot more free and open minded with expression via clothing. 11/3/2014 11:47 AM View respondent's answers Yes probably as anything seems to happen within fashion and it's only a matter of time before trends start heading this way. 11/3/2014 11:45 AM View respondent's answers Not anytime soon in a modern western society however I am unaware of different cultures. 11/3/2014 11:43 AM View respondent's answers !Question 8:- What are your feelings on the menswear fashion industry - Do you think it is as important as womenswear and do you think it can be as experimental? !its more conservative than womenswear generally. 1/1/2015 10:56 PM View respondent's answers As long as they don't expect to be taken seriously by straight women. 12/30/2014 10:35 PM View respondent's answers It is becoming very feminine and very skinny looking!! It can be experimental and yes it is as important. 12/30/2014 10:33 PM View respondent's answers Yes, why not. 12/30/2014 10:30 PM View respondent's answers Yes. 12/30/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers yes I think it's as important as most men like to look good. 12/30/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers The menswear industry is still strong, with some emphasis on classic outfits e.g. old fashion textile suits. It is very important as I think that there should be a definition between male and female clothing. 12/30/2014 9:10 PM View respondent's answers fashion whether male or female should allow people to define their inward personality. fashion evolves and we continue to see regeneration of past fashion trends. yes important In equal measures for both. 12/30/2014 9:08 PM View respondent's answers At the moment no as menswear is generally presumed to be simple. It should be as experimental as womenswear. 12/30/2014 8:32 PM View respondent's answers mens fashion is very ‘safe’. 12/30/2014 4:50 PM View respondent's answers Yes it's as important, men can experiment but keep it masculine please. 12/30/2014 10:22 AM View respondent's answers No it's very dull. It can be experimental - and has been with every generation. 12/30/2014 9:46 AM View respondent's answers yes it's as important. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers Menswear is still steeped in tradition. It will take a very long time to change that. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers Can be boring but safe. Not prepared to take the same risks as womenswear. 12/29/2014 10:50 PM View respondent's answers Yes definitely as important and think it should be as experimental. 12/29/2014 10:34 PM View respondent's answers Yes it can be as experimental but the consumer needs to accept it and change the pre - existing stereotypes. 12/29/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers yes, it's as important but there is less to experiment with. 12/29/2014 10:06 PM View respondent's answers pretentious. 12/29/2014 9:39 PM View respondent's answers As important. No. 12/29/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers yes tailoring needs to be more aVAILABLE FOR WOMEN. 12/29/2014 9:09 PM View respondent's answers Men's fashion is becoming incredibly challenging and experimental and we are looking for something different. I find we are taking more of a concern in our appearance and how we are perceived, therefore becoming increasingly important. It is a culture. 12/29/2014 8:57 PM View respondent's answers Page of40 42
  • 41. I think it is becoming just as important and getting more and more attention because of the forward thinking designs and the experimentation which has made the womenswear industry so big. 12/29/2014 8:12 PM View respondent's answers I don't like experimenting on animals if that's what you mean. 12/28/2014 7:11 PM View respondent's answers Yes but would not understand unless it was practical. 12/22/2014 6:58 PM View respondent's answers I think it is as important, although not as well recognised as womenswear. There's no reason why it couldn't be as experimental, but I think it's easier for women to experiment with their style due to there being such a wide variety of brands out there and also less expensive for women. 12/22/2014 3:00 PM View respondent's answers It can be experimental as long as there is a division between what is for men and what is for women. Having said that, I'd rather wear a kilt than a suit or a tux!. 11/5/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers It has been, and it is back on track to bring so now. Men are alit more interested in individualism and creativity then they were say, 10 years. I'm a final year design student and ratio between menswear and womenswear are almost equal out of a group of 75 which is very rare for my uni, my tutor says. Menswear is becoming a lot more interesting. 11/4/2014 7:42 AM View respondent's answers absolutely. menswear designers should be allowed to experiment just as much and be totally praised for their risky-ness. how boring is it going to be if year on year the same mundane designs were released for men. how can we change the perception of the general public if there is nothing to filter down from the people we look to as in charge… 11/3/2014 9:58 PM View respondent's answers male fashion is a lot more boring than women's. Women have a lot more variety whereas men are pretty limited. And it's known that fashion is more of a female interest then men. But then again it is changing and much more men are becoming more fashion aware. 11/3/2014 9:20 PM View respondent's answers I think the demand for the 'norm' overrules the demand for something experimental in mens fashion. I think there is more money in womens fashion because more women buy mags than men, and the fashion industry cater for this. If mens fashion had more backing and publicity, you might get more experimental fashions. 11/3/2014 7:51 PM View respondent's answers I prefer menswear to womens and believe that menswear has a stronger sense of substance over style as well as keeping it on trend. 11/3/2014 1:54 PM View respondent's answers Menswear is important however I feel womenswear is critical. 11/3/2014 1:30 PM View respondent's answers Absolutely, but it still needs that pull into the world of androgyny. 11/3/2014 12:32 PM View respondent's answers Yes definitely. 11/3/2014 12:16 PM View respondent's answers yes of course. 11/3/2014 11:55 AM View respondent's answers Yeah definitely. 11/3/2014 11:47 AM View respondent's answers I think it's just as important, and yeah it can be experimental but most guys still stay safe. 11/3/2014 11:45 AM View respondent's answers I'm not really up-to-date with it so I cannot comment. 11/3/2014 11:43 AM View respondent's answers. !Question 9:- Finally, please list words that come to mind to describe menswear fashion today. !Menswear generally is more conservative than womenswear but maybe men are more confident and secure in their clothing choices and less in need to make a statement than women. Perhaps men place comfort and practicality first. Why do you think men don't wear heels? 1/1/2015 10:56 PM View respondent's answers Static. Classic. Boring. 12/30/2014 10:35 PM View respondent's answers Gay Feminine Very skinny looking. 12/30/2014 10:33 PM View respondent's answers More variety and more stylise. 12/30/2014 10:30 PM View respondent's answers Tapered Smart Powerful. 12/30/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers sassy classy. 12/30/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers It is becoming: sloppy cross retro (e.g. 70's mixed with 80's fashion) too casual. 12/30/2014 9:10 PM View respondent's answers edgy to a point, contemporary, beige, individual, versatile, limited, pricey. 12/30/2014 9:08 PM View respondent's answers. Simple, controlled by social stereotypes, 12/30/2014 8:32 PM View respondent's answers boring Unimaginative. 12/30/2014 4:50 PM View respondent's answers Mostly casual , smart, and manly. 12/30/2014 10:22 AM View respondent's answers Boring, dull, same old. 12/30/2014 9:46 AM View respondent's answers Freestyle Casual Branded. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers Page of41 42
  • 42. Traditional in lots of ways yet still breaking through the boundaries to become more contemporary. 12/29/2014 11:13 PM View respondent's answers safe , mundane, repetitive, lacks colour and vibrancy, 12/29/2014 10:50 PM View respondent's answers Similar trends Masculine in design. 12/29/2014 10:34 PM View respondent's answers similar. Comfortable practical. 12/29/2014 10:12 PM View respondent's answers exciting. Different. 12/29/2014 10:06 PM View respondent's answers asual, cool, comfortable. 12/29/2014 9:39 PM View respondent's answers Clean cut. Smart. 12/29/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers CLEAN, lean smart. 12/29/2014 9:09 PM View respondent's answers Creative, challenging, high, street, cultures, emotion, change, new! 12/29/2014 8:57 PM View respondent's answers Innovative, exiting, experimental, forward thinking, clean cut, smart. 12/29/2014 8:12 PM View respondent's answers T-shirts, jeans etc. 12/28/2014 7:11 PM View respondent's answers smart suits Jeans smart but casual. 12/22/2014 6:58 PM View respondent's answers Bold Skinny Tailored Layered Strong lines. 12/22/2014 3:00 PM View respondent's answers In limbo, unadventurous, slack, shabby, not defining, predictive. 11/5/2014 9:28 PM View respondent's answers Creative, Dearing, high end, selling well. 11/4/2014 7:42 AM View respondent's answers modern, exciting, different, revolutionary, the best its ever been really. 11/3/2014 9:58 PM View respondent's answers Simple, limited, boring. But that's because men are afraid to try too hard and maybe get the feeling they will come across as "gay" especially if they did something drastic with their image. 11/3/2014 9:20 PM View respondent's answers sharp. monochrome. 11/3/2014 7:51 PM View respondent's answers experimental and new but also timeless. 11/3/2014 1:54 PM View respondent's answers Smart , Masculine. 11/3/2014 1:30 PM View respondent's answers Dark, gothic, angles, simplicity, length. 11/3/2014 12:32 PM View respondent's answers Diverse. 11/3/2014 12:16 PM View respondent's answers Fitted, slim, various, diverse, evolving. 11/3/2014 11:55 AM View respondent's answers Dapper, tight fitting, layering, brogues, blazers, coats, accessorise, pocket square, GQ, well put together. 11/3/2014 11:47 AM View respondent's answers Roll necks! Urgh! - don't enjoy a man in a roll neck!. 11/3/2014 11:45 AM View respondent's answers Again I don't really dwell on the modern fashion of menswear, I stick to my own preferences that are conservative. 11/3/2014 11:43 AM View respondent's answers Page of42 42