Discover Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide 2015 (Issue #26)

2015
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Introduction 3
Hometowns 6
A very brief history of T&T 8
Food 10
How to make callaloo 14
Carnival 22
Liming 35
The arts 37
Beaches 40
Eco-adventures 44
Adrenaline rush 61
Detox & de-stress 64
Our heritage 66
Exploring 72
Shopping 78
Accommodation in Trinidad 84
Tobago 97
In the water 98
Diving 102
On the land 107
Tobago for kids 113
Food and shopping 114
Accommodation in Tobago 116
Maps 120
Important info 130
Festivals & calendar of events 134
Safety 136
CONTENTS

Vacation
Family
Quality Service
Trinidad & Tobago Inter-Island
Ferry Service
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W
elcome to T&T,
the New York of
the Caribbean.
Here lives the happiest man
alive, Machel Montano. And
it’s no idle boast by the soca
superstar, whose mega-hit
of the same name captures
the glorious exuber-
ance and insouci-
ant rhythm of our
people. The 1.3 mil-
lion inhabitants of
this larger-than-life,
surround-sound,
technicolour, too-
rich-for-its-own-
good oil and gas
republic love to eat,
dance, laugh and
enjoy life to the max. Plus,
we have one of the sexiest
accents in the world. (And
I’m not saying that just be-
cause I’m a Trini; Gallup Inc
and CNN actually carried out
these international polls in
2012.)
Trinidad and Tobago,
broken-off bits of the South
American mainland, are
among the richest islands
in the world. In addition
to large offshore deposits
of natural gas, the largest
natural deposit of asphalt
and hundreds of species of
plants, flowers and animals,
the northeast coast of Trini-
dad is also the largest nest-
ing ground in the western
hemisphere of the Giant
Leatherback Turtle (some
bigger than a car).
T&T, as we are known
around the region, are
among the most bio-diverse
places in the world. You have
only to sit in a gar-
den, even in suburban
neighbourhoods like
Trincity and Diego
Martin, and you will
see what appear to
be pieces of the sky
shoot past (blue-grey
tanagers) and flashes
of the deepest saf-
fron (cornbirds). Trin-
idad’s fertile soil has
yielded the hottest pepper in
the world (Moruga scorpion);
the finest cocoa (Trinitario)
and hundreds of varieties of
ferns, orchids, bromeliads,
bamboo and hardwoods.
introduction
the northeast coast of trinidad
is the largest nesting ground in
the western hemisphere of the
giant leatherback turtle
“
“
ANULAKHAN
WELCOME
Hundreds of gorgeous species of flowers create riots of colour in gardens,
parks, forests, along roadsides and highways... just about everywhere.

This remarkable little
republic, covering less than
2,000 square miles, has pro-
duced the only new acoustic
instrument of the 20th cen-
tury, the steel pan; one of
the greatest living writers,
VS Naipaul; the socialist in-
tellectual and cricket writer
CLR James; the world-record
holder for most Test runs in
cricket, Brian Lara; one of the
leaders of the Black Panthers
and the US civil rights move-
ment, Stokely Carmichael;
the first Black Miss Universe,
Janelle Commissiong; and
(for the first five years of her
life anyway) Nicki Minaj.
The people who call
these islands home are an
intoxicating blend of Amer-
indian, African, European,
Asian and Middle Eastern
bloodlines – reflections of
the incredible vitality of their
land. The First Peoples called
it Iere, land of the hum-
mingbird. Seventeen spe-
cies of this mystical acrobat
are among the 474 species
of birds seen here, flitting
among the scandalously co-
lourful flowers and feeding
on our heavenly fruits.
The most wonderful
thing about Trinbagonians,
though, is the way we live life
– to the very fullest. We eat
well, we party hearty, and
we love a good lime (Trini
talk for hanging out – be it at
the beach, in the backyard or
by the corner bar). Nobody
can dance quite like us; we
do things with our hips that
beguile and bewilder the
virgin ‘winer’. It is, in many
ways, our number one cop-
ing mechanism.
For further enlighten-
ment, watch Sonja Dumas’
TedX lecture, ‘The Hip as a
Weapon’, on YouTube, which
explains how to wine.
Required listening (to understand the power of
soca)
• Possessed (Machel Montano and Kerwin DuBois,
featuring Ladysmith Black Mambazo)
• Raise Your hands and Leh Go (Roy Cape All Stars and
Blaxx)
• Differentology (Bunji Garlin)
• Truck on de Road (Bunji Garlin)
• Wotless (Kes the Band)
• Happiest Man Alive (Machel Montano)
theofergusonofyerette
The tufted coquette hummingbird is one of the 430 species of birds found here.

6 | DISCOVER TRINIDAD & TOBAGO
hometowns
hometowns
T
he lighthouse in Toco, the most east-
ern point in Trinidad, has been re-
named in honour of the island’s javelin
champion, Keshorn Walcott. The 2012 Olym-
pic gold medallist, the first black male athlete
to win the gold medal in a throwing event
in the history of the Games, was born in this
tiny, remote village. At the lighthouse you can
walk out on to a jagged outcrop and stand on
the corner of the island where the Caribbean
Sea and Atlantic Ocean meet. Below, power-
ful waves smash into the rocks below, rolling
logs and boulders on to the beach. The view
of the blue waters is both magnificent and
terrifying.
S
t James, the city that never sleeps, is
the birthplace of hip hop superstar,
Nicki Minaj. The controversial per-
former, who was born Onika Tanya Maraj, left
Trinidad for New York when she was just five.
She returned in 2012 to film the music vid-
eo for “Pound the Alarm”. St James, on the
outskirts of Port of Spain, was once a sugar
estate. The area was settled by East Indian
indentured labourers so streets have names
like Delhi, Bombay, Calcutta, Benares and
Ganges. On any given night, no matter what
time, people can be found liming along the
Western Main Road in St James. During the
Islamic festival of Hosay even non-Muslims
come out in the streets and dance to the ir-
resistible sound of tassa drums.
meppublishers
edisonboodoosingh
The Keshorn Walcott lighthouse at Galera Point in Toco dates back
to 1867 and is still used to warn ships about the rough waters below.
Tassa drummers liven up the streets of St. James during the
Muslim festival of Hosay as ‘tadjahs’ (model mausoleums) are
paraded to commemorate the martyrdom of Hussein,
grandson of the Prophet Muhammad.

S
iparia is the hometown of Machel Mon-
tano, the republic’s most famous soca
star. The annual festival of La Divina
Pastora, celebrated a few weeks after Eas-
ter, centres on an 18th century statue known
as the Black Virgin. The statue’s origins are
unknown, yet it is venerated by Hindus and
Catholics alike. Believers of other religions,
including Islam and Buddhism, as well as in-
digenous Waraoa Indians, have been known
to worship the saint.
Montano grew up in Siparia, where he
attended the Roman Catholic boys’ primary
school, and then the prestigious Presenta-
tion College in San Fernando. During a career
spanning more than 30 years the singer and
producer has headlined almost every car-
nival in the world, and recorded songs with
American rappers Pitbull and Busta Rhymes,
dancehall artistes Buju Banton, Beenie Man,
Vybz Kartel and Mr Vegas, Wyclef Jean (The
Fugees), as well as Shaggy, Doug E. Fresh,
and the legendary Calypso Rose.
D
own the islands, off the coast of Trini-
dad, is Anya Ayoung-Chee’s favou-
rite place to chill out. This chain of
tiny islands is a magical place, an easy es-
cape from the urban chaos of Port of Spain
via speedboat, yacht or pirogue from any
of numerous marinas. The winner of season
nine of Project Runway, an American real-
ity television series on the Lifetime network
which focuses on fashion, Ayoung-Chee was
crowned Miss Trinidad and Tobago Universe
in 2008. A graduate of Parsons School of
Design and Central St Martin’s School of Art
and Design, she worked as a designer in New
York until 2007, when she returned to Trini-
dad. Her women’s label, Pilar, continues to
make waves, and her lingerie line, Anya de
Rogue, remains the first of its kind in the Ca-
ribbean. She also designs costumes for the
carnival band Tribe.
aaronrichards
The waters of the Gulf of Paria reflect the bright lights of holiday homes down the islands, off the northeast coast of Trinidad.

hometowns
N
owhere in the world will you find so many differ-
ent cultures and nationalities living together peace-
fully – and not just existing, but liming together! A
typical Trini lime could throw up all sorts of ethnicities and
nationalities.
Amerindians from the South American mainland – mainly
from the Kalinago and Taino tribes – first settled the islands.
On Christopher Columbus’ third voyage he claimed the islands
for the Spanish crown. Trinidad remained in Spanish hands
until 1797, though largely settled by French planters. Tobago
changed hands 27 times between the British, French, Dutch
and Courlanders, but eventually ended up in British hands. In
1889 the two islands were joined to form a single crown colo-
ny. Trinidad and Tobago obtained its independence from the
British Empire in 1962 and became a republic in 1976.
Over the last few decades, Trinidad’s enormous wealth has
attracted immigrants from neighbouring Grenada, St Vincent,
Jamaica, Cuba, Venezuela, and as far away as Syria, Lebanon,
Germany, Nigeria – to add to the already dazzling mix of Afro-
Trinis (whose ancestors were mainly from West Africa – Nige-
ria and Ghana), Indo-Trinis (from Uttar Pradesh and Madras),
Asian Trinis (from Guangdong Province and Hong Kong), as
well as the remaining descendants of the First Peoples (Amer-
indians), many of whom live in Arima and Valencia.
a very brief history
of T&T
We are theWORLD

edisonboodoosingh
The descendants of the First Peoples of Trinidad and Tobago pay
homage to their ancestry with smoke ceremonies.

S
o yes, the food is amazing. You could, in theory, never
eat the same thing for a month in Trinidad. From cre-
ole to Caribbean fusion, Indian to Italian, the smorgas-
bord of cuisines on these islands is staggering. We love to eat.
Trinidad has more Chinese restaurants per square mile than
China itself, it seems. These legions of Cantonese-style out-
lets each serve dozens of dishes with every type of seafood
and meat. You will also wonder, how many roti shops can one
island have? Until you’ve had a shrimp paratha roti with bhagi
and curry mango, that is. Then, you will wonder why there
aren’t more roti shops in the world.
Warning: Chicken roti generally contains chicken on the
bone, so be sure to ask for boneless chicken, if available. If
not, take a surgical approach to the roti: open it up and re-
move the bones first. Or bite gingerly and proceed with cau-
tion.
Most people start the non-stop munching at the airport –
with a doubles. Flight crews make a beeline for the doubles
man as they touch down. This humble-looking chapatti with
curried channa is the most popular street food in Trinidad,
and never fails to enrapture. Served with sauces and chut-
neys, doubles are sold by street vendors across the country.
St James and Curepe are well-known as 24-hour doubles pit
stops. Every Trini has a favourite doubles vendor. An app (on
food
WE LIVE TO EAT

Android) called “Eat ah Doubles” helps you to locate your
nearest vendor.
The perfect place to sample a bit of all our street food is St
James at night. The Western Main Road plays host to vendors
of souse (cold, pickled meat), roti, grilled chicken, burgers,
corn soup, boiled corn, ital food and home-made ice-cream
(including Guinness). Food vendors are required to display
food badges from the Health Authority. Most street food is
safe, but it’s best to avoid oysters.
Pies are our other cheap and cheerful street favourite.
Aloo (Hindi for potato) is a popular option, and comes with
channa, chutney and sauces such as tamarind and mango. Sa-
heena is made with dasheen bush, baiganie with aubergine.
Beef, fish and cheese are also made into delicious fillings for
both fried and flaky pastries.
Vegetarian and vegans will find eating here a blissful
experience with fresh fruits and vegetables available year-
round. There is always a fruit in season – mango, passion fruit,
cashew, grapefruit, orange, mandarin, pommerac, pommecy-
there (June plum in Jamaica), chennette, guava, melon, caram-
bola, sapodilla, soursop, papaya, pineapple or tamarind. Our
ground provisions (yam, eddoes, dasheen, sweet potatoes,
cassava, tannia, potatoes, topi tambu, peewah, chataigne,
breadfruit) are formidable and filling. They are lovingly paired
nicholasbajan
Roasted breadfruit is usually paired with stewed saltfish or fried fish.

with vital “itals” like plantain,
callaloo (dasheen) bush,
pumpkin, christophene, to-
mato “choka” (roasted to-
matoes with onions, garlic
and seasoning), baigan (au-
bergine) choka and curry
bodi (green beans). We also
have a dozen divine varieties
of avocado (better known
as zaboca). With so many
devout Hindus and Rastafar-
ians in T&T, most restaurants
serve veggie dishes.
The Trini approach to
selecting which animals can
be eaten is straightforward:
Once it moves, it’s going to
get curried, stewed or bar-
becued. Beef, lamb, chicken,
shrimp, ribs, fish and pig-tail
– all will be cooked or charred
into delectable bites. The se-
cret to our sensuous cooking
is our seasoning – a blend
of chives, chadon beni (ci-
lantro), garlic, onion, celery,
pimento pepper and thyme.
We also grow and use a lot
of nutmeg, clove, ginger, rou-
cou/annatto, bay leaf, anise,
lemon/fever grass and spring
onion.
meppublishers
Warning: Chicken roti generally contains chicken on the bone, so be
sure to ask for boneless chicken, if available.

how to
1. Assemble ingredients
2. Wash and chop callaloo bush (if using);
ochroes; pumpkin; scallions and onions;
slice carrots; mince garlic. Chop the thyme
finely or place entire bunch whole in the
pot (remove the stems after cooking). If
possible, use fresh coconut milk (grate
coconut into hot water and squeeze out
juice); if not, you can use canned coconut
milk (look for a brand without preserva-
tives)
3. In a saucepan over low heat, add one
tablespoon of olive oil, then add the
pumpkin, carrots, ochroes, callaloo (or
spinach), scallions, onion, thyme and
garlic, and habanero pepper
4. Add the coconut milk. Salt to taste; add
freshly ground black pepper
5. Cover and let simmer for 60-90 minutes
until all the ingredients are cooked and
soft. Turn every 15-20
minutes to mix and pre-
vent sticking to the bot-
tom of the pot
6. When finished, remove
pepper (being careful
not to burst it) and meat
(if any). Swizzle using a
swizzle stick, also called
dhal ghutney in Trinidad,
to break up any chunks.
Ria’s
Trinidad Callaloo
1
2
3 4
5

Trinidad Callaloo
Ingredients
1 tablespoon of olive oil
10 oz of callaloo bush, or 2 packages
of frozen, chopped spinach*
1 lb pumpkin (squash or calabaza),
cubed
1/2 lb ochro, sliced into 1 inch pieces
or use pre-cut frozen ochro
1 medium carrot, thinly sliced
1 medium onion, chopped
4-5 scallions, finely chopped (about 1
1/2 cups)
1 bunch of thyme (whole or chopped
finely)
6 large garlic cloves, minced
2 cups of coconut milk
salt and pepper (approx. 3 teaspoons
of salt and 1 tsp of freshly ground
black pepper)
1 habanero pepper
Optional – 1 lb chicken, beef, crab or
prepared salted meat
Alternatively, you can use a food proces-
sor, blender or hand immersion blender
for a finer, smoother consistency
7. Enjoy over rice or with macaroni pie.
* It is difficult to find what is known locally
as callaloo bush, the leaves of the dasheen
plant, outside of Trinidad, so frozen spin-
ach may be used as a substitute.
With special thanks to Ria, a Trini living
in New York, who provided the recipe
and photos.
www.cookingwithria.com
6
7

Most of the fine dining restaurants are in and around Port of
Spain (mainly Woodbrook) and San Fernando, with a few in the
east and central Trinidad. The finer chefs at the top restaurants
have worked internationally, and tend to experiment with local
ingredients in Caribbean fusion dishes, while others are con-
tent to take the traditional Creole cuisine to dizzying heights of
delectability. European styles include Spanish, French, English
and Italian. Lebanese, Japanese, Thai, Korean and Hakka (In-
dian/Chinese) have also been added to the never-ending list of
culinary options in T&T. Even health nuts are catered for, with
salad bars cropping up on the every-trendy Ariapita Avenue in
Woodbrook. In a culture that adores wild meat and rich gravies,
things like olives and spinach have always been bystanders to
the main course. Nowadays though, words like organic and
vegan are being bandied about, and more menus are tapping
into the many fruits and veggies available year-round.
Tip: Reservations are
recommended,
especially for dinner.
ANULAKHAN
Our meats are often stewed and smothered in sublime sauces that lead to shameless bone chewing and finger licking.

www.cookingwithria.com
The secret to our sensational food is the seasoning, a potent blend of chadon beni
(a local cousin of cilantro), chive, celery, thyme, pimento, garlic and parsley.

hometowns
Chow
Chow captures the Trini personality. Most people would look at a pineapple or mango and
think, what a sweet fruit. And eat it just like that. And be happy. But no. Trinis look at a mango
or a pineapple and think, Chow. They look at this sweet innocent fruit and add salt, black pep-
per, hot pepper, garlic, chadon beni, sometimes even onions and lime… Good god, why? But
then, you taste it. And it leaves you reeling, weeping and gasping for breath – depending on
how hot the pepper is. But after you’ve drunk the second gallon of water and washed your
face, and your tongue has stopped throbbing, you find yourself wanting to taste it again…
Pelau
Pelau is our version of Jamaica’s rice and peas – and we also add chicken or beef to this one-
pot wonder that has featured so prominently in our cultural history. It was, for decades, the
trademark dish of the cricket lime, the “all fours” (card game) lime, the football fete match, and
the fete itself. Long before the all-inclusive fete took over the dance, pelau was the reliable dish
to keep the crowd happy and full at parties.
Home-made ice cream
A Sunday afternoon tradition that has survived in the modern age, ice-cream making by hand
brings the added flavour of love. For a sample, try Miss Babbsie’s coconut ice cream. She is
located in a small shop on Paria Main Road, Cumana, Toco (by the Roman Catholic school).
This now-legendary ice cream also comes in cherry-coconut, Guinness, rum and raisin, peanut,
soursop, barbadine, chocolate and seamoss.

A
t the base of this iconic skyscraper,
which is perfectly perched on the
edge of Woodbrook and St James,
a virtual one-stop shop for foodies has
been created. Just minutes away from Ari-
apita Avenue, One Plaza at One Woodbrook
Place is now a haven for restaurateurs –
with its central location; tonnes of free,
secure parking; Digicel IMAX complex; and
celebrity clients (residents of apartments in
the high-rise block, or their friends).
It was only a matter of time before
Pizza Hut, for years the sole food outlet on
site, got some serious competition. Now,
the rapidly growing list of restaurants and
cafés jostling for space at THE “des res”
in Trinidad include Chaud Café and Wine
Bar (its highly rated big brother, Chaud
Restaurant, is located around the Queen’s
Park Savannah); The Port; Shesha Café &
Lounge; Urban Oasis Café; Svaada; Samu-
rai and Annie’s Chinese Restaurant, of-
fering Middle Eastern (everything halal),
Mediterranean, vegan, vegetarian, sushi,
salads, sandwiches, pasta, gourmet burg-
ers, tartines, strip steak, scallops, shrimp,
octopus, squid, mussels, clams and… the
list is endless. And we haven’t even men-
tioned the desserts, which include warm
apple crumble, banana beignets and choc-
olate espresso mousse.
What more could you want? Ah, yes,
a little after-dinner conversation … over a
hookah. Shesha Café & Lounge also pro-
vides the increasingly popular hookahs,
complete with tobacco in flavours like
grape, lime, apple and lemon mint.
ONE
PLAZAat One Woodbrook Place
courtesysheshacafé&lounge
The Middle Eastern influence is alive and smoking hot – hookahs are
the newest rage in trendy T&T.

carnival
I
t’s like carnival in Rio, but in English. Tens of thousands of
costumed revellers take to the streets of the capital every
year, a conquering army of marauding dancers that rolls
through downtown Port of Spain on a wave of music. Dias-
pora Trinis fly in from freezing corners of the globe to “jump
and wave and misbehave” for two glorious days. This is the
mother of if not all, certainly most of the carnivals around the
world – Notting Hill, Labor Day, Caribana, Miami, and many
others across the US. The intoxicating mix of high-energy mu-
sic and street theatre performed by masqueraders, some in
costumes 50ft tall, make the massive parade an unforgettable
experience of a lifetime.
CARNIVALwhere we all come together as one
courtesyyuma
‘All ah we is one family’ – a popular calypso captures the camaraderie on the road among masqueraders.

CHRISANDERSON
A blue devil, one of the many fascinating traditional Carnival characters, breathes fire (with some handy kerosene and a flambeau). One
of the most exciting and atmospheric places to experience blue devils in action is Paramin in Maraval on Carnival Monday afternoon.

B
ack in the late 18th century, Trini-
dad was still a forgotten outpost of
the Spanish Empire. The island re-
mained almost totally under forest cover. It
was, literally, a jungle out here. Spain issued
an invitation to French planters and inves-
tors in the neighbouring Caribbean islands
to cultivate the land. These French Creoles
brought with them their own African slaves,
as well as the Catholic tradition of prepar-
ing for the austerity of Lent with a carnival
(a literal farewell to the ‘flesh’). This took
the form of grand masquerade balls, where
the planters and their wives danced the
nights away to
the sound
of music.
The slaves
watched it
all from their
quarters – and decided
to have their own version, based
on their own West African dances,
songs and festivals.
When the British snatched Trin-
idad from Spain in 1797, the slaves
continued the annual carnival rituals
– including stick-fighting (an African
tradition). But when slavery ended in
the 1830s, carnival took on an increas-
ingly rowdy and defiant tone. The British
attempted to ban drumming, which moti-
vated the former slaves to search for new
ways to make music. This led, with so many
discarded oil drums from the burgeoning
energy industry, to the invention of the
steel pan.
The colonial authorities became worried
and concerned members of the elite wrote
angry letters to the editors of newspapers
demanding that the ex-slaves’ celebrations
be banned. A big showdown in Port of
Spain in 1881 between bands of stick-fight-
ers and the colonial police left many dead,
and others badly wounded. A re-enactment
of these Canboulay Riots takes place every
Carnival Friday at five in the morning at
the corner of Duke and George Streets in
downtown Port of Spain.
Here you can see traditional characters,
like the jab jab and imp, the pierrot grenade
and the midnight robber, and discover the
intriguing stories behind them.
courtesyk2kcarniv
al
French celebration
AFRICAN
RHYTHMS
The idea behind the many styles of costumes on
offer is to ‘play yuhself’, i.e. have the time of your life.

E
fforts to ban or control the Carnival in the 19th century
have influenced the modern incarnation of the festival
– and some say, the society. To this day an anti-author-
itarian tradition of satire and defiance is hardwired into Car-
nival; the public awaits, with glee, the loaded lyrics of those
master calypsonians who can deliver “licks” to those involved
in the latest scandal. Calypsonians are seen as griots and
chantuelles, according to West African traditions. The early
20th-century calypso maestros who toured Europe included
Atillah, Invader, Lion, The Mighty Sparrow, Lord Kitchener,
Chalkdust, Black Stalin and The Mighty Shadow. Their suc-
cessors, SuperBlue and David Rudder, held on to the story-
telling aspect of the art, but the tradition began giving way to
soca in the ’90s, with lyrics losing ground to driving rhythm
and much faster tempo.
The two early traditions of Carnival – one African and sub-
versive, the other French and celebratory – are still very much
alive in the 21st century. However, the main thrust these days
seems to be wining.
Nothing can stop the
CARNIVAL

WARRENLAPLATTE
Beads, baubles and bling galore: glimmers of the gaudy
origins of Trinidad’s carnival – the French masquerade ball.

W
ining is everything to Trinis. It is the alpha and the
omega of our being, our interpretation of yin and
yang. It’s not just sexy dancing. This is sexual heal-
ing – and there’s a science to it. The reason it feels so damn
good to “wuk up your waist” is that it gives the spine, which
is part of the central nervous system, a good shake-up and
awakens all kinds of senses. Like high-impact yoga and pilates
– at 180rpm – it often includes gravity-defying positions and
contortions. It will definitely raise your kundalini and chakras.
This is why the virgin winer may find himself trembling and
tingling after being “wound” upon for the first time. Wining
is our therapy. If a Trini is happy they will put on some soca
and start to wine. If they’re sad or angry, and they hear soca
and start to wine, they feel better. To test this theory, play
“Possessed” (Machel Montano, Kerwin DuBois and Ladysmith
Black Mambazo) or “Wotless” (Kes the Band).
Wining lessons: If you
would like to master
“the wine”, women-only
dance studio SHE (Sexy
Healthy Energetic) Casa
in St. Augustine teaches
“winercise” – aerobics
with a focus on the pel-
vis – and SHEflex, yoga
with a sexy twist that
improves flexibility and
includes exotic dancing
techniques using chairs.
The science of wining – it’s all
in the spine
WARRENLAPLATTE
‘Raise your hands and leh go’ goes the soca hit song – and that’s exactly what Trinis do on the streets during the parade of the bands.

The wine in
action
Fetes
T
his is where you can see – and feel –
for yourself what all the fuss is about.
The central aim of the fete is to wine
and have a good time. Another French bless-
ing, the fete (and feteing) is a key component
of carnival, and some say, the Trini psyche.
Massive parties, with tens of thousands of
people, are held almost every weekend from
early November until carnival weekend. Many
are now all-inclusive, an all-you-can-eat-and-
drink extravaganza, headlined by the most
popular bands who take the business of win-
ing seriously.
Soca stars
S
oca music’s driving rhythm is popular
in gyms, especially aerobics classes.
Its fast tempo is perfect for workouts.
This is feel-good music that makes your mus-
cles move – starting in the pelvis. The stars
of the techno generation of soca are Machel
Montano, Bunji Garlin, his wife FayAnn Lyons,
Kes Dieffenthaller, Destra Garcia, Kerwin Du
Bois, Iwer George and Denise Belfon. They
have taken the music to new levels and in dif-
ferent directions. International club DJs Ma-
jor Lazer remixed songs by Machel and Bunji
(“The Fog” and “Differentology”), which have
become hits on the European club scene.
courtesymachelmontano
The Happiest Man Alive, Machel Montano,
is a pioneer of the airborne wine.

Major Lazer’s
Jillionaire
T
he Jillionaire, as he
is known to millions
of electronic music
fans, was born Christopher
Leacock in Chaguanas, Trini-
dad. As part of the massively
successful DJ group Major
Lazer, he regularly plays in
clubs in the UK, the US, and
Europe regularly and tours
with superstar DJ Diplo.
Jillionaire stole the show at
Notting Hill Carnival in Lon-
don in 2009 with a blend of
soca, dancehall and onstage
antics.
In 2013 he and DJ Diplo
did a remix of Bunji Garlin’s
“Differentology” and have
been playing it at their live
shows where it always sends
the crowd wild.
Major Lazer plans to
stage a show in Trinidad, and
projects in the pipeline with
local artistes include a col-
laboration between Machel
Montano and US producer
Pharrell Williams; a “power
soca” tune; a remix for US
rapper and musician Mackl-
emore with T&T producer
1st Klase and Swappi; a song
with Shurwayne Winchester,
and plans to work with Kes
the Band. Jillionaire also pro-
duces other Trinidadian and
Jamaican artists on his label,
Feel Up Recordings.
Soca Monarch finals
T
his has become one of the most anticipated shows of
the season. With millions in prize money at stake, this
competition is keenly contested – with veterans of the
soca arena, including SuperBlue and Machel Montano, going
up against young Turks from at home as well as Barbados, St
Vincent and Grenada. Last year, a dark horse, Mr Killa (from
Grenada), almost stole the show from Montano with his mas-
sive hit, “Rolly Polly”.
Tip: The first half of the show, the Groovy Soca competi-
tion, is fairly relaxed and can be observed from the “pit”
in front the stage. After that though, when the Power
Soca leg of the competition – some truly spectacular
stage presentations – head for the hills. Get into the
stands quickly. Within minutes the stands of the Na-
tional Stadium empty and the football field becomes a
heaving, writhing mass of 30,000 sweaty bodies.
kenwolff
Chris Leacock has been opening (club) doors for T&T’s music through remixes,
including Bunji Garlin’s ‘Differentology’.

A core of steel
I
f you had to name a sound that captures
the essence of Trinidad and Tobago, it
would be pan. It is the republic’s gift to
the world, the only new acoustic instrument
invented in the last century. One of the joys
of the carnival season is listening to the doz-
ens of steel orchestras – great and small –
practising in pan yards across the country.
Every major town has a pan side, supported
warmly by diehard fans, many of them walk-
ing archives of steelpan lore. The older ones
can recall precisely how their band played
on the night they became Panorama champ in 19whenever. In
the weeks before the finals, the pan yard becomes the engine
room of the community. Judges visit the pan yards and choose
who will take part in the Panorama semi-finals, a massive week-
end event where the older aficionados take to the Grand Stand
to listen in reverence, while those who come more for the lime
than the pan converge on the notorious North Stand opposite
(scene of much drunken debauchery over the decades). The
best place to hear the band though, some will tell you, is “the
track”, the paved concourse to the Big Stage, where the bands
do their final warm-ups and run-throughs before their big mo-
ment in the spotlight.
Tip: Just ask where the
nearest pan yard is and
treat yourself to a free
show by dazzling per-
cussionists.
anulakhan
Pan virtuosos emerge, after months of
painstaking practice, to hypnotise fans
at the hotly contested annual festival,
Panorama.

Make ‘mas’
J
ust watching the parade of the bands
on Carnival Monday and Tuesday is ex-
hilarating (and exhausting) enough for
most people. If, however, you want to join a
band, it’s the easiest thing in the world: just
go online and book one. Big bands launch as
early as July these days.
If you are in Trinidad a week or two be-
fore Carnival, you should pop into a ‘mas’
camp, the band’s headquarters. There you
will find band members hard at work bend-
ing wire, glueing (lots of glueing!) headpiec-
es, adding sequins and feathers, adjusting
bras and panties, and, if you’re lucky, putting
the finishing touches on the king and queen’s
costumes.
The Kings and Queens of Carnival are
wonders to behold up close. The details in
the designs of these behemoths, some as tall
as 50ft, are exquisite. You can see them in all
How to get involved in
CARNIVAL
• The National Carnival Commission:
www.ncctt.org
• Mas bands: The National Carnival
Bandleaders Association
www.ncbatt.com
• Pan: Pan Trinbago
www.pantrinbago.co.tt
• Calypso: Trinbago Unified
Calypsonians Organisation
www.tucott.com
their glory on the Big Stage at the Queen’s
Park Savannah during the lead-up to carni-
val, and on the road.
J’ouvert bands and Carnival bands tend
to operate as separate entities, but there are
some bands that play both. You can choose
to be in a small, medium or big band. Most
big bands are all-inclusive, which is pricey
but so easy and convenient – you can register
online; all your food and drinks are provided
on the road; as well as a portable loo; and, if
you feel hot and tired, you can chill out in a
Mobile Cool Zone, which emits a mist of wa-
ter. If you just want a costume, that’s also an
option.
J’ouvert
T
he 48 hours of Carnival begins in the
early hours of Monday morning with
J’ouvert (French for daybreak). Un-
der the cover of cool darkness, covered from
head to foot in mud, paint, oil and/or cocoa
paste, the liberating power of this disguise
transforms everyone. And then the music
truck starts up, feet start to chip, and the
shadows begin to move – as one.
On Carnival Monday afternoon Paramin
hosts blue devil competitions. To see these
terrifying characters in action, breathing fire
and making a ruckus with biscuit tins, is car-
nival theatre at its most dramatic and sub-
lime.

garyjordanphotographycourtesyk2kcarnival
The road is a runway: Alexander McQueen meets Peter Minshall in the carnival couture designs of K2K Alliance, the brainchild of twin sisters
Karen and Kathy Norman, former investment bankers who returned home from the US in 2012 to launch their first band. This costume is
called “Finding Venus” from their 2015 presentation, M3: The Long Walk From Home.

The Queen’s Park Oval is famous for being the home ground of Brian
Lara, one of the greatest batsmen in the history of cricket.
Wilmarkjohnatty

liming
The Queen’s Park Oval,
home of the Prince of Port of Spain
M
any an expat in Trinidad can tell tales of being drunk
on the Avenue or walking back to the Hyatt and
somebody will stop and a familiar voice will say,
“Boy, I go drop you back to the hotel. Glowing white man
like you walking downtown – I doh want to read ’bout you in
de papers tomorrow nuh.” It turns out to be the fella who sat
next to them at a cricket match in the Oval. Twenty20 cricket
has brought a new wave of fans to the game. And the Trini
penchant for befriending the fella sitting next to them often
leads to a lifetime friendship – or certainly for cricket limes.
Numerous sports bars and lounges in and around Port of
Spain are popular hangouts for locals and expats. The rum
shops and less salubrious bars in St James are also great
places to feel the pulse of the people. Trinis love to discuss
politics – local, regional and international, and with just about
everyone digitally connected, conversations are anything but
predictable.
The art of liming and where to
‘buss a lime’

Ariapita Avenue
T
his is Trinidad’s answer to Montego
Bay’s Hip Strip, with its profusion
of fine restaurants (Creole, Italian,
Asian, and sushi), casinos, members’ clubs,
bars and lounges. On Friday and Saturday
nights, the massive crowds of after-work of-
fice workers turn the sidewalks into street
parties. Many a business deal is hammered
out on these nights (well, the participants
get hammered, if nothing else). After all is
said and drunk, the night usually ends with
a visit to one of the many street vendors
selling doubles, corn soup, burgers, gyros,
gourmet waffles, barbecue pig tail... the
menu is constantly growing and changing.
One never knows what one will find for sale
on “De Avenue”.
For a slightly less boisterous experi-
ence, tapas bars and lounges can be found
in and around Woodbrook. Further west is a
less salubrious hip strip, the Western Main
Road in St James, which offers the quintes-
sential Trini rumshop experience. The crowd
here tends to be slightly older and ‘earthier’.
The street food is just as tasty and varied as
on the Avenue, with beef roti, chicken foot
souse, jerk pork and “ital vitals” among the
offerings.
Martin’s –
Trinidad’s Cheers
T
his cosy little piano bar on Woodford
Street in Port of Spain is a venerated
liming institution. Its owner, the epon-
ymous Martin, is himself a living archive of
local knowledge. A great raconteur and wine
lover, he has been regaling patrons – at vari-
ous locations around Newtown, Port of Spain
– for more than 20 years. The staff, who have
been with Martin forever, treat customers like
family. And the food is excellent. Reason-
ably priced delicious lunches – which can be
served in the open-air courtyard or indoors
in an air conditioned dining area – are ideal if
you’re on a budget. The callaloo is heavenly.
If you’re in luck, you may be treated to a live
performance of old school calypso or jazz.
www.facebook.com/martinspianobar
Wilmarkjohnatty
Street parties in their blood: Trinis will ‘lime’ anywhere there’s alcohol and music.

the arts
life is a stage
T
rinis being party-loving people who love fashion and
dance, the clubs in the capital are always buzzing, and
almost every week a chutney fest is held somewhere
in Central or a reggae concert is staged in Port of Spain. The
local dance scene spans regional folk dance (the most popu-
lar being the indigenous limbo, bongo, and bele), ballet, jazz,
modern, Indian classical, and contemporary styles. The many
dance schools and semi-professional companies (Noble
Douglas, Astor Johnson, Metamorphosis, Carol La Chapelle,
Elle Inc, Cascade Festival Ballet) and regional folk perform-
ing groups (Malick Folk Performers, Northwest Laventille
Cultural Movement and Shiv Shakti Dance Company) stage
shows year-round, while smaller troupes present experimen-
tal multi-media productions. Larger companies often put on
short annual seasons at Queen’s Hall. Sonja Dumas, Makeda
Thomas and Dave Williams are known for their experimental
modern style, while the Nrityanjali Theatre focuses on Indian
classical dance.
jeffreychockcourtesycocodance
Choreographer and dancer Dave Williams in his iconic performance ‘Scan’ (2009).

Leading designers take part in Trinidad & Tobago Fashion
Week in July, and present their own shows at the end of the
year. Prominent local designers include Heather Jones, Meil-
ing, Claudia Pegus, Anya Ayoung-Chee, Robert Young, Wa-
dada Movement as well as Kathy and Karen Norman.
Local jewellery can be made of shells and seeds strung
together or gems and precious metals. Chris Anderson, Gillian
Bishop, Rachel Ross, Jasmine Thomas-Girvan and Janice Der-
rick are all known for their handcrafted jewellery.
Many visual and performing artists pass through Alice
Yard in Woodbrook and a lot of experimental theatre and
exhibitions are staged here. You can catch a glimpse of con-
temporary artists’ work at the Art Society of Trinidad and To-
bago and the art galleries in Port of Spain. Queen’s Hall is the
leading venue for theatre, music and dance performances. To
get a taste of Trinidad’s musical and lyrical talent, check out
performances by Freetown Collective, Gillian Moor, Orange
Sky, jointpop, and a slew of reggae artistes, including Marlon
Asher (Ganja Farmer) and Prophet Benjamin.
marklyndersay
The country’s first – and for many years, only – concert hall was built in 1959, and remains one of the main venues for the performing arts.

courtesywendellmcshine
‘In Search of Forever’ (acrylic, aerosol and Indian ink) by Wendell McShine, one of T&T’s leading contemporary artists.

beaches
W
e do a different kind of beach here. Not for us the
calm, placid pond in baby-blue. Uh-uh. Our waters
are a little livelier. With few reefs, the waters off
the North Coast can kick up some rather playful waves (surf-
ers like Toco, especially). It’s not unknown for a bikini-wearing
bather to lose their top to pummelling surf. Maracas Bay,
especially, is beloved by locals for its sprightly waves, misty
mountains and food stalls. Great for jumping, ducking, body-
surfing and boogy-boarding, Maracas is usually a refreshing
workout that guarantees you – and the kids – a good night’s
sleep.
Las Cuevas, just a few miles further along the North Coast
from Maracas, runs a very close second to Maracas for the
title of best beach in Trinidad. This long, looping bay is usu-
ally calmer than Maracas, with crystal-clear water and gentle
waves. Small caves, white sand and flowering trees make Las
Cuevas perfect for a lazy day spent contemplating the beauty
of the universe.
Other notable beaches include Macqueripe Bay, in the
Chaguaramas National Park, which is usually bursting at the
seams with families from the west, as well as all over the
country, who come to try the ziplines; Blanchisseusse, which
has a wild and rugged shoreline; Vessigny, down in the south;
and Mayaro, the second longest stretch of beach in the world,
where you will find tonnes of chip-chip, a tiny clam that makes
a pretty mean cocktail.
The other side of Trinidad
beaches

ariannethompson
La Fillette beach on the North Coast is well known
for its 100 steps leading down to the sand. The
exercise is worth it!

hometowns
Beaches
Maracas Bay
Sunbathing, swimming, occasional surfing,
(paid) parking, gas station, food stalls,
lifeguards, toilet/shower facilities (nominal
fee).
Blanchisseuse
Surfing, hiking, bird watching, parking
(roadside), turtle watching, camping.
Mayaro
Lifeguards, kite surfing, sunbathing, camp-
ing, swimming (with caution)
Grand Riviere
Surfing, turtle watching
Macqueripe
Zip lining, swimming (with caution),
bathroom/changing rooms (nominal fee),
(paid) car park, snorkelling, children’s
play park
Tyrico
Lifeguards, surfing, camping.
Las Cuevas
Swimming, sunbathing, camping, snack
bar, showers/toilets (nominal fee), car
park (free), lifeguards
Manzanilla
Swimming, camping, running, lifeguards.
The sight of dozens of Leatherback turtles
lumbering up the beach at Grande Riviere is
definitely something to write home about.

wilmarkjohnatty
Granville Beach
Camping, kayaking, paved parking lot,
toilet facilities, bathing
Columbus Bay
Bathing
Cedros Bay
Bathing, Biking, kayaking
Quinam Bay
Bathing, camping, lifeguards, fishing.
Vessigny Beach
Car park, snack bar, camp grounds, picnic
tables, changing rooms with showers and
toilets, lifeguards.
Matura
Turtle nesting, camping
Paria
Swimming, hiking, mountain biking,
camping
Saline/ Sally bay
Camping
Salybia
Surfing, bathing, camping, lifeguards
Sans Souci
Surfing, turtle-nesting (sometimes)

eco-adventures
T
rinidad is known to wildlife experts and enthusiasts for
the sheer mind-boggling number of animal species and
habitats crowded together on one small island just 50
miles long by 37 miles wide. Having once been part of South
America, Trinidad has evolved both continental and island life
forms: 108 native mammals (57 of which are bats), 460 birds,
55 reptiles, 25 amphibians, and 620 butterflies, as well as over
2,500 species of flowering plants (700 of which are orchids),
370 species of tree and 300 types of ferns. Nowhere else in
the West Indies can match this level of diversity – and few
areas of comparable size anywhere in the tropical Americas.
eco-adventures
from tiny birds to giant turtles
theofergusonofyerette
Trinidad’s Amerindian name is Iere, which means ‘Land of the Hummingbird’. Seventeen species
of this amazing little acrobat can be found here, including the Copper-rumped hummingbird.

T
rinidad and Tobago are on most birders’ bucket list. From
the air the islands are just huge nesting sites. The sheer
volume of birds makes the air traffic almost as intense
as on the ground. The average tally for birders is usually 150
unique birds, topping most other destinations in the region by
30 easily. You can view the complete checklist of the 474 spe-
cies observed by the Trinidad and Tobago Rare Bird Commit-
tee (TTRBC) by visiting www.rbc.ttfnc.org/trinilist.pdf.
heaven
for bird watchers
www.faraazabdool.com
Purple reigns: Birders adore the stunning plumage of the purple honeycreeper, which often comes to perch on the porch at Yerette.

Asa Wright Nature Centre
F
orty species before breakfast. And
that’s just from the veranda. The
early birder can catch sight of doz-
ens of the 166 species spotted at this vast
nature reserve. At dawn they come in the
hundreds – hummingbirds, bananaquits
and tanagers – all within touching distance!
You can also see a Crested Oropen-
dola colony near the main house, and
Ornate Hawk-eagles and Channel-billed
Toucans often perch near the veranda.
You can take guided tours of the rain-
forest and explore nature trails where
the White-bearded Manakin and Golden-
headed Manakin can be spotted and the
bell-like “bong” of the Bearded Bellbird is
heard continuously.
Take a dip in a plunge pool, sample local
cuisine at the restaurant, or pick up a sou-
harolddiaz
venir of Trinidad’s natural history in the gift
shop. The veranda offers fantastic views
down the Arima Valley.
A breeding colony of the nocturnal oil-
bird or guacharo in Dunston Cave is per-
haps the most easily accessible colony of
these rare only nocturnal, fruit-eating birds
to be found anywhere. The oilbird is found
only in the northern region of South Amer-
ica and Trinidad. It roosts or nests in caves
during the day, and at night forages in the
forest.
Asa Wright Nature Centre is Trinidad’s
foremost conservation area, spanning 1,500
acres in the Arima and Aripo Valleys of the
Northern Range. Its eco-lodge, restaurant
and reception are located on a former
cocoa-coffee-citrus plantation, which has
been partly reclaimed by secondary forest.
An oilbird chick emerges from its shell as its mother looks on. A protected colony of 200
pairs of this rarely seen nocturnal bird can be found at Asa Wright Nature Centre.

Forest
O
ne of the most accessible forest tours is at the
Fondes Amandes Community Reforestation Proj-
ect in St Ann’s. You can trek up hills, explore the
forest, take a dip in a river, and learn about this model eco-
project and the many gifts that Mother Nature has bestowed
on Trinidad. Founder Akilah Jaramogi, a descendant of the
Merikins (runaway slaves who fought for Britain and were
given lands in the deep south of the island), makes dramatic
jewellery from seeds, beads and other forest materials.
www.facebook.com/facrp
Pax Guest House
J
ust minutes away from the University of the West In-
dies in St Augustine, Pax Guest House sits perched
800 feet above sea level at the Mount St Benedict
monastery. About 600 acres of forest can be explored via
trails. The guesthouse is an easily accessible place to spot
many species of birds. www.paxguesthouse.com
Bees and butterflies abound in this land where flowers bloom year-
round and the supply of nectar is plentiful.
ariannthompson
Yerette
T
his is a chance to sit
and have tea surround-
ed by dozens of hum-
mingbirds. The Fergusons
allow visitors to take tours of
their garden, where 13 species
of hummingbirds have been
photographed, along with
dozens of other birds. Images
of the birds adorn their living
room, taken by Theo. You can
choose from three “tours”
– one at 8am, the second at
11am, and the last at 3pm. Lo-
cal cuisine is served and all
juices and meals made from
local ingredients so visitors
can sample sorrel or guava
juice with their provisions and
stewed chicken. Tel. 373-1379

Lopinot
N
estled in the foot-
hills of the Northern
Range, just 20 min-
utes from the Eastern Main
Road in Arouca, is the histor-
ic and serene village of Lopi-
not. The lush surrounding
hillsides are home to hun-
dreds of birds and wildlife. A
river runs parallel to the road
leading to the village, with
dozens of picturesque spots
for a dip, a lime, some romance or yoga. A
natural swimming pool forms just below the
museum, a popular spot for children to splash
in the cool water and observe the millions of
baby tadpoles on the water’s edge.
There’s also the added thrill of the place
possibly being haunted by the 19th century
French cocoa planter after whom the village
is named. After a visit in 2011, Ghost Hunters
International and SYFY Channel in the US re-
ported that they had found more evidence of
paranormal activity there than anywhere else
in the world.
The village is also well-known for its pas-
Tip: Book lunch or dinner at Café Mariposa, opposite the
playing field in Lopinot. This open-air family restaurant
(and bed-and-breakfast) cooks lovely Spanish Creole
dishes made with fresh organic herbs from their own
garden. The parang-singing family’s speciality is home-
made tortillas, salsas and chutneys; and home-made
ice-cream and sorbets. Cocoa comes in all forms – hot
chocolate, cocoa ice cream, sorbets, gluten-free cocoa
cake, 70 percent dark chocolate bars, cocoa-infused
bread pudding… even a cocoa panyol pork and chilli con
carne! www.mariposalopinot.com
telles and parang. The residents are an in-
triguing mix of Amerindian, Spanish, French,
African and East Indian heritage, and tend to
be farmers. People also speak Spanish and
French patois here.
For further thrills, explore the caves 2km
north-east of Lopinot.
Walk through the grounds and admire
the trees towering overhead. This is a snap-
shot of life as it was 200 years ago in Trini-
dad. At the small museum you will find tools
and utensils from the 19th century. A clay
oven and a cocoa house remain, legacies of
the era when cocoa was king in the island.
anulakhan
Cocoa pods grow directly from the tree trunk and branches. They ripen at various times so
can be harvested year-round. Trinidad produces some of the best cocoa in the world.

chrisanderson
The Lopinot historical site is the main house of what
was once a cocoa estate owned by a Frenchman.
The wooden house sits nestled in beautiful gardens,
surrounded by lush hills, with a lovely river nearby.

robertramkissoon

Like a quiet cathedral, the Caroni Bird Sanctuary is a
protected haven for egrets and other swamp birds.

Thanks to a collaboration with the Cincinnati Zoo in Ohio, dozens of blue and gold macaws
have been re-introduced into the Bush Bush Wildlife Sanctuary in the Nariva Swamp.
giancarlolalsingh

The Pointe-à-Pierre Wild
Fowl Trust’s focus is en-
dangered wetland birds
– breeding and returning
them to their natural habi-
tat. Located on the sprawl-
ing estate of the Petrotrin oil
refinery, near San Fernando,
it covers 72 hectares of land
and includes two lakes and
trails, which offer great bird-
watching opportunities. A
small museum hosts Amerindian artefacts.
www.papwildfowltrust.org
At the summit of Mt Tamana, the Central
Range’s highest point, you have some of the
best views in Trinidad, with forest stretch-
ing as far as the eye can see. Every evening,
around sunset, up to a million bats fly out of
the cave – a heart-stopping but exciting sight.
The Nariva Swamp & Bush Bush Wildlife
Sanctuary is an amazing experience for
the entire family. Boys, especially, will love
The Caroni Swamp and
Bird Sanctuary, a few miles
southeast of Port of Spain, is
famous for the flocks of bril-
liant scarlet ibis that return at
dusk. Once on the water, you
feel as if you’ve entered an-
other world. Afternoon boat
tours (from 4pm) take you
deep into the eerie quiet of
the swamp, gliding through
a vast, towering cathedral
of mangrove roots. The sight of hundreds of
scarlet ibis flying overhead and landing in the
branches of trees is one you will never forget.
If you want to take in the swamp at your own
pace, you can hire a kayak. It’s not advisable
to bring children under age three, since two
hours in a boat may be too much for a tod-
dler to handle. You can buy tickets there, or
call one of the operators to pick you up. It’s
cheaper to buy it at the site but you will need
a car to get there, since it’s off the highway.
You can hire a driver to take you there. Ask
the hotel front desk if they know anyone.
Daniel Solomon
Chairman
Joycelin Hargreaves
Chief Executive Officer
Committed to its vision of making the
Chaguaramas Peninsula the premier
provider of the ultimate customer
experience, the Chaguaramas
Development Authority (CDA) is
ensuring the Peninsula’s diverse
ecology, its natural resources as
well as its geographical features
all come together to make
Chaguaramas a destination that
exceeds expectations.
The Master Plan for the Peninsula
serves as a vital tool for
articulating the region’s social
and economic thrust as well
as serves as a medium for
accelerating its tourism and
investment potential.
This is an especially exciting
time at the CDA. Phase 2(A) of
the Chaguaramas Boardwalk
presents an array of projects
designed to attract investment
opportunities locally, regionally
and internationally.
These projects will transform
Chaguaramas into one of the
most attractive and demanded
commercial, entertainment
and recreational hotspots in
the Caribbean.The launch of
the exciting and adventurous
Zipline, Canopy Tours and
the Water Taxi Service to
Chaguaramas also provides
unique opportunities to
enhance our visitors’
experience.
Chaguaramas has all
this potential and more,
and in recognition of
this, we have created a
road map for success to
make Chaguaramas…
Somewhere close to
Magic!
Committed to the New Vision of Chaguaramas.
Tip: Wear jeans and long
sleeves, and as much in-
sect repellent as you can
tote. In the rainy season,
a large umbrella or rain-
coat helps. If you have
binoculars, bring them,
your best camera and a
zoom lens.

kayaking through the waters of the swamp. As you glide
along, you will see and hear different kinds of monkeys, in-
cluding red howler and white-fronted capuchin monkeys.
This is also home to several endangered species of birds and
mammals, including red-bellied macaws, owls and mana-
tees. You may spot agoutis, tegus, Cascadura (armoured
catfish) and caimans (small crocodiles).
At the Bush Bush Wildlife Sanctuary you will find channel-
billed toucans and tree-climbing porcupine. In the evening,
the island’s beloved scarlet ibis returns to its roost in the trees
among the mangroves. You will need a tour guide and permit
to explore the swamp. You can arrange a tour by kayak, boat
or (in the dry months) on foot.
www.caribbeandiscoverytours.com
JessKraft/shutterstock.com
The Bush Bush Wildlife Sanctuary is a haven for the red howler monkey as well.

L
eatherbacks are the largest turtles on
earth. Some can reach up to seven
feet long and weigh more than 2,000
pounds. These reptiles can dive to depths
of 4,200 feet – deeper than any other turtle
– and can stay down for up to 85 minutes.
They can live up to 45 years. Once prevalent
in every ocean except the Arctic and Antarc-
tic, the leatherback population has declined
dramatically in many parts of the world.
Female hatchlings that make it to the sea
will roam the oceans until they reach sexual
maturity. Then they return to the same nest-
A giant among us – the endangered
leatherback
ing areas to produce their own offspring.
Males spend the rest of their lives at sea.
Trinidad and Tobago are two of the world’s
most important turtle nesting grounds, and
not only for the endangered leatherbacks.
Hawksbill, green turtles and other species all
come up on our shores to nest from March to
September.
Trinidad’s Grande Rivière, the second larg-
est leatherback nesting site in the world, and
Matura are well-known and protected beach-
es. In Tobago, turtles frequent the beaches
of the Leeward coast, especially Stonehaven
theDivisionofTourismandTransportation
Trinidad’s east coast is one of the most important leatherback
turtle nesting sights in the world. During peak season up to 300
nesting leatherbacks have been spotted in a single night at
Grande Riviere. They can also be seen nesting in Tobago.

and Courland (or Turtle) beaches. Access to nesting beaches
is restricted to prevent poaching and to allow the turtles to
nest undisturbed. Tour operators can arrange the necessary
permits.
You can also choose to stay overnight at a nearby hotel.
The front desk there can arrange your permit. It’s best to go
with a guide, who can explain the nesting process. Do not
touch or disturb the turtles. Lights, noise and activity tend
to disorient both turtles and hatchlings. Try to be quiet and
unobtrusive, and do not use flashlights or flash photography.
Do not try to pick up hatchlings or impede their progress to
the sea. Please do not drive on nesting beaches; the weight of
the vehicle can crush eggs buried in the sand.
The Turtle Village Trust is the umbrella body for the is-
lands’ leading turtle conservation groups: Nature Seekers; the
Grande Rivière Nature Tour Guide Association; the Matura to
Matelot (M2M) Network; the Fishing Pond Turtle Conservation
Group; and SOS (Save our Sea Turtles) Tobago.
www.turtlevillagetrust.org
giancarlolalsingh
That miraculous moment when a baby turtle emerges from its shell
and begins the long, hazardous walk to the sea.

Aripo Savannas
T
he Aripo Savannas Scientific Reserve
is home to thousands of protected
species of plant and animal life which
can only be found in Trinidad. It is the island’s
last relatively untouched savanna ecosystem
– a unique expanse of tranquil, open space
fringed by moriche palms and marsh forest.
Located in east-central Trinidad, the reserve
ecosystem is unique due to the array of habi-
tats (not seen elsewhere in the country) and
the high density of rare, threatened and en-
demic species. It is one of the most intensive-
ly studied areas in the tropics. You will need
a permit to enter the reserve, which can be
obtained from the National Parks Section of
the Forestry Division. Open Monday to Fri-
day, except public holidays, 7am to 4pm. Tel.
645-1203.
Chaguaramas National Park
Y
ou could easily spend weeks explor-
ing this end of the island, the depar-
ture point for “down de islands”. The
national park is constantly adding new at-
tractions, the latest being a series of ziplines
set high in the trees above Macqueripe Bay.
Scream your way down the seven exhilarat-
ing lines and rope bridges in 45 minutes of
heart-stopping fun.
Open six days a week (Tuesday to Sun-
day) 10am-4pm on week days and 10am-
4:30pm on weekends and public holidays.
No bookings required. Tel. 381-8543. www.
facebook.com/Trinidadzipitt
You can also kayak in Williams Bay, star-
gaze, hike to a waterfall, explore trails, hash,
hang out on the boardwalk, swim in Mac-
queripe Bay, jump off the rocks there, fish,
go mountain biking, horseback riding, rappel
down a cliff or play a game of golf. The Cha-
guaramas Military and Aerospace Museum is
the largest museum of its kind in the Carib-
bean. Children will really love this because
they can interact with the artefacts and piec-
es around the museum (while supervised of
course). And that’s just on the mainland.
courtesyzippit
A canopy walk between the ziplines at
Macqueripe in Chaguaramas

Gasparee Cave
Y
ou can take a powered boat to Gas-
paree Island from Island Home Own-
ers marina. This is actually a coral reef
pushed up out of the sea. Over the millen-
nia water has eroded the limestone and sev-
eral cave systems have formed deep within
the island. The largest is known as Gasparee
Cave, which has dramatic cave formations
of stalactites, stalagmites, earth pillars and
a massive blue-green pool in the middle of
the cave, lit by sunlight from a hole above.
Hiking
C
haguaramas is a hiker’s paradise. It’s
an ideal place to get acquainted with
the terrain and wildlife of Trinidad.
You can take it easy and stroll through the
Bamboo Cathedral, then up to the old US
tracking station. With waterfalls and so much
forest cover, the truly intrepid can get their
groove on too. The best time to hike is in the
dry season – January to June. Be careful in
the rainy season (July to December), even if
you go with a guide, as rivers can quickly be-
come swollen and dangerous.
Chaguaramas Development Authority:
www.chagdev.com
Chaguaramas Golf Club:
www.chaggolfclub.com
Chaguaramas Military History and
Aerospace Museum:
www.militarymuseum.com
Caution when hiking
Alwayscarrywater,foodandfirstaidsup-
plies, and some dry clothes, in a water-
proof bag. Black clothing is the hottest,
and attracts mosquitoes. Take a guide
who is registered with the Incoming Tour
Operators Association, or someone with
thorough local knowledge of the route.
Wear long trousers for bush treks, and
comfortable, waterproof shoes with
good grip – no open-toed sandals. Stay
on the track (especially during hunting
season). Check the weather forecast be-
fore setting out – flash flooding can hap-
pen during the rainy season, and tree
falls and landslides quickly change a fa-
miliar landscape. And please, don’t leave
any litter behind.
There are plenty of places to hike in Chaguaramas
but be careful in the rainy season as rivers can
quickly become swollen and dangerous.
ariannthompson

robertramkissoon
The serene silence of the Bamboo Cathedral in
the Chaguaramas National Park is broken only by
the cries of howler monkeys and green parrots
that inhabit the forest canopy.

T
here’s great scope for hiking in both
islands, especially in the Northern
Range, and several groups do regu-
lar trips, including guided weekend hikes to
caves and waterfalls. Popular hikes include
the Maracas Waterfall in St Joseph (easy),
Paria Bay on the north coast with its nearby
waterfall, the Rio Seco waterfall near Salybia,
and Trinidad’s second highest mountain, El
Tucuche. Camping is allowed at Madamas
Bay, also on the north coast, which is only ac-
cessible by boat or on foot (about five hours
from Blanchisseuse). Other popular areas:
Brasso Seco, Tacarib, the Heights of Guanapo
and the Guanapo Gorge, La Laja and Som-
basson waterfalls, Aripo Caves. But always
go with a guide or a hiking organisation. Do
not take risks, and do not guess the route.
Other hiking
adventures
Trinidad and Tobago Incoming Tour
Operators Association:
www.ttitoa.com
Caribbean Hiking Adventures:
www.caribbeanhikingadventures.com
Hikers Inc: www.hikersinctt.com
Island Hikers: www.islandhikers.com
Nature Trekking: www.naturetrektnt.com
Outdoors Trinidad:
www.trinioutdoors.com
Trinbago Backpackers Hikers Club
www.trinbagobackpackers.webs.com
Trinidad & Tobago Hikeseekers
www.hikeseekers.com
anulakhan
The Rio Seco waterfall is one of many deliciously cool watering
holes in the country. The height from the top of the waterfall to
the pool is about 20 feet.

adrenaline rush
Let’s take it from
the top
Paramin
T
his traditional mountain farming community over-
looking Maraval, on the outskirts of Port of Spain,
has the most stunning views on the island. The high-
est point, Morne La Vigie, is over 2,000 feet. The people
here – descendants of runaway African slaves, French Cre-
oles from Martinique, Guadeloupe, Grenada, Dominica, and
St Lucia, ‘cocoa Panyols’ from Venezuela and Amerindians
– are famous for their luxuriant seasoning herbs, pimentos,
vegetables and ground provisions. They speak a French
Creole or patois that is unique to Trinidad, though similar
to St Lucian kweyol, and still perform their crèche and pa-
rang music during the Christmas season. On Carnival Sun-
day, mass is said in patois at the Catholic Church, whose
stained-glass windows offer commanding views of the sur-
rounding mountains. Tip: Tours can be arranged through
a tour operator, or you can hire a jeep on Saut D’eau Road
in Maraval.
ariannethompson

Fort George
T
he wind whistles and sings up here, and small birds
have a hard time staying on their flight path. At more
than 1,000 feet above the city, this beautifully main-
tained 19th century military installation in the hills overlook-
ing the capital comes with a breath-taking panoramic view of
the entire north-western peninsula, including the Diego Mar-
tin Valley and the Gulf of Paria. Look for rainbows splashed
across the nearby foothills after a bit of rain. Children (pref-
erably over seven) will have a fun time looking through the
telescopes, exploring the terraced grounds and never-used
“lock-up”, and riding the cannons. It tops the list as a sunset-
watching location.
The cannons at Fort George stand guard over the most breathtaking
view of the Gulf of Paria and north-western peninsula of Trinidad.
ariannethompson

For the adrenaline junkie
T
rinidad’s forests, cliffs, rivers, waterfalls
and seas will get your blood pumping
and pulse racing easily. Tour operator
Adventure Seekers takes you hiking, hashing,
rappelling, surfing, wakeboarding, scuba div-
ing, ziplining, rock climbing and paragliding.
If you just want to experience the serenity of
nature, they can take you camping, turtle-
watching, horseback riding or sailing.
www.facebook.com/adventureseekerstt
Martial arts
P
rivate dojos, which welcome drop-
in visitors, teach kung fu, karate,
bushido, aikido, judo, jujitsu, tai chi,
kickboxing, krav maga and WuShu. An indig-
enous form of karate called Don Jitsu Ryu
was developed by Professor Don Jacob. He
holds a 9th Degree Black Belt and the title
(Hanshi) Grandmaster is taught at his Purple
Dragon dojos across T&T, the Caribbean, the
USA, Canada, Europe and Australia. www.
purple-dragon.com
Booty Camp
I
n the land of the limbo, fitness workouts
can come with a rather spicy twist. At
women-only studio, Provocative Fitness,
which is located on the aptly named Fitt
Street in Woodbook, founder and instructor
JC Blandin brings her formidable background
as a trained dancer (folk, modern, ballet and
yes, limbo) and national aerobics champion
to the fitness industry with an eclectic menu
of workouts that both tone up and titillate. In
addition to gruelling “boot camp” sessions,
Provocative Fitness makes getting fit freak-
ishly fun with classes in “winercise”, zumba,
pole dancing, and aerial silks and hoops.
www.provocative-fitness.com
KesterD’Arnaud/wellnessconnect
Take a twirl on the wild side with a class in aerial hoops at
Provocative Fitness studio.

detox & de-stress
A
ll the hard work and playing that Trinis do takes a toll on the body – and we do like to
look good. The answer? Spas. Over the last decade dozens have popped up across the
country, offering everything from reiki and aromatherapy to lymphatic drainage (this
detoxes the lymph nodes) massages and Shirodhara, a form of Ayurvedic medicine. Many do
both beauty and massage treatments, so you can be pampered literally from head to toe – hair,
eyebrows, facial, deep-tissue massage, a little laser on the thread veins, and a pedicure. Some
spas even throw in complimentary feet and hand massages, herbal teas, wine, tea and light
refreshments.
pampering
from the pros
Spa Esencia,
Hyatt Regency Trinidad
L
uxurious and private are the essence
of this spa, where each suite has its
own shower and toilet. Indigenous in-
gredients are used in the treatments which
have carnival-themed names, such as the Di-
manche Gras massage, which combines aro-
matherapy, warm stone, Swedish and deep
tissue massage. The only spa in the Carib-
bean that offers the Intraceuticals Infusion
Treatment, Spa Esencia offers 10 body treat-
ments, 15 massages and nine types of facial
– as well as a combo package. Feed your skin
cocoa, coconut oil, sugar cane, vanilla, nut-
meg or cinnamon with one of their delicious
treatments. Booking a treatment also gives
you access to the fully equipped gym and the
infinity-edge pool for the day. Tips: Get to the
spa early as they serve delicious herbal teas
prior to treatments. And don’t forget to take
your room key as this is the only way to work
the elevator.
www.trinidad.hyatt.com/hyatt/pure/spas/
The Face and Body
Clinic
A
trailblazer in the field of beauty
and spa treatments, The Face and
Body Clinic is a one-stop shop for
de-stressing (the spa); giving the old ego a
boost (beauty treatments); and turning back
the clock (laser therapy or a little ‘lipo’). The
“lipo” is not the traditional liposuction, but an
alternative that uses ultrasound and encour-
ages lipolysis (fat depletion). You will find
just about every treatment you can imagine
at The Face and Body Clinic’s four branches
(Port of Spain, San Fernando, Tobago and
Charlieville): eye lift treatments, facials,
bleaching, electrolysis, waxing, hair reduc-
tion, skin resurfacing for wrinkle reduction
and/or treatment of acne scars; and removal
of age spots, moles, spider veins and tattoos.
You can, literally, walk out of there a different
person.
www.faceandbodyclinic.com

And breathe….
A
s you can imagine, living in a mini-
metropolis like Trinidad can take
a lot of your energy. And what
with the island’s economy racing full steam
ahead, more and more Trinidadians are turn-
ing to yoga and meditation to stay calm
and relaxed. This Eastern practice is quietly
drawing in believers and quite a few stu-
dios (hatha, moksha, ashtanga) have mush-
roomed around the capital. The Raja Yoga
Centre offers free courses in anger manage-
ment, stress-free living, positive thinking and
meditation as a service to the community at
five locations across Trinidad (Port of Spain,
Chaguanas, San Fernando, Sangre Grande
and St Augustine). Its San Fernando branch
is particularly picturesque, perched atop a
hill overlooking the city. Feel free to drop in.
www.brahmakumaris.org/trinidad
SubbotinaAnna/shutterstock.com

I
n between Trinidad’s many modern build-
ings and ultra-contemporary homes, ar-
chitectural gems peep out, legacies of
Trinidad’s many influences – religious, social
and economic. Among the most beautiful and
appealing are the signature gingerbread hous-
es, many Catholic churches and cathedrals,
classic Islamic mosques, Hindu mandirs, 18th
century mansions built by cocoa kings, former
sugar plantation homes and museums, such
as the National Museum and Art Gallery, which
has a German Renaissance style.
Heritage and
architecture
The Magnificent Seven, a row of grand
old houses on the western side of the
Queen’s Park Savannah, were built between
1900 and 1910. The most southerly is Queen’s
Royal College, whose most famous alumna
is Nobel Prize-winning writer (and quintes-
sential Trini) VS Naipaul. Hayes Court was the
residence of the Anglican Bishop of Trinidad
and Tobago and is still the property of the
Anglican Church. It is currently under renova-
tion. Next door is Mille Fleurs, which was built
in 1904 for the Prada family. It was bought by

our heritage
the government in 1979, but has never been
used, like many structures in this wealthy na-
tion, and is now falling apart.
Roomor, originally known as Ambard’s
House, was commissioned by a cocoa mer-
chant. It is the only one of the seven still
functioning as a private residence. Just three
doors down from the Anglican bishop’s resi-
dence is the home of the Roman Catholic
Archbishop of Port of Spain. The building has
been renovated and is used by the church.
Whitehall was, until 2008, the office of
chrisanderson
Ambard’s House, or Roomor, as it is popularly known, is the only
one of ‘the Magnificent Seven’ to remain as a private residence.
Constructed in 1904 as a family residence, it was designed by a
French architect and most of the materials were imported – the
marble from Italy, the tiles from France and the cast-iron elements
from Scotland.
the Prime Minister of Trinidad and Tobago
since shortly after independence. It is still be-
ing renovated and restored with plans for it
to be used as a Protocol House for visiting
dignitaries.
The northernmost of the seven, Stollmey-
er’s Castle, was originally named Killarney.
It remained the property of the Stollmeyer
family until the 1970s and was eventually
bought by the government in 1979. It too was
scheduled for conversion to a Protocol House
in 2008, along with White Hall; however, the
work is still ongoing.
History buffs will find cannons and other
relics scattered throughout the island. The
gingerbread house has delicate wooden
filigree, jalousie windows, peaked roofs, dor-
mers and a gallery. George Brown, a Scot-
tish architect who came to Trinidad in 1880,
created the gingerbread style, which can be
found across the island, in remnants of stately
mansions once owned by planters and mer-
chants, as well as the humble cottages of the
working class.
Quite a few gingerbread houses can be
seen in Woodbrook, the western suburb of
Port of Spain that is now the liming hub of
the country. A living museum of architecture,
this former sugar estate became a respect-
able suburb for a new emerging middle class
in the early 1900s.
Belmont, to the east of the Queen’s Park
Savannah, has also held on to some of its
beautiful old homes, which are in remarkably
good condition.

African Legacy Tours
T
hese inspiring and educational tours
take in sites of African heritage
across the two islands. Africans were
first brought here in 1606 to work on tobac-
co plantations. However, most came in 1783
with the plantation owners of islands that
the French had claimed. Emancipation was
proclaimed at the Treasury Building in Port
of Spain by Governor George Hill on August
1, 1834; the freedom for which the Africans
had ceaselessly fought was finally achieved
four years later, on August 1, 1838.
The tours celebrate the rich legacy of the
Africans, as well as the contributions of their
descendants, to the heritage and culture of
Trinidad and Tobago. You will learn about
their resistance, Maroonage, Pan African-
ism and links to continental Africa, as well
as their spirituality and ancient legends, new
discoveries and modern heroes.
Tel. 461-8637
Emperor Valley Zoo
T
igers, giraffes, lions, macaws… and
lots of snakes. Kids will love it. The
young giraffes are adorable and the
new lions and tigers are big draws. Get a
good look at some of the many species of
monkeys, parrots, macaws, snakes, fish and
reptiles that inhabit the forests of this land.
Open every day exept Christmas and car-
nival. Admission: Adults TT$30, children
TT$15, 9am–6pm.
www.zstt.org
Melman and Mandela are new and very popular additions to
the Emperor Valley Zoo in Port of Spain.
meppublishers

Flamingoes frolic at the Emperor Valley Zoo, which
was named after the Blue Emperor butterfly.
meppublishers

tzooka/shutterstock.com
The Blue Emperor butterfly (Morpho peleides) is one of more than 600
species found in T&T – an astronomical number given the tiny size of
the country.

Angostura Museum
A
nd Barcant Butterfly Collection, East-
ern Main Road/Trinity Avenue, Laven-
tille. View the famous collection of
Trinidad’s colourful butterflies, including the
beautiful Blue Emperor. Hear the history of the
company’s unique bitters, tour the manufac-
turing room, bottling plant and distillery and
sample some of Angostura’s much-loved rums.
Tours begin at 9.30am and 1.30pm, Monday to
Friday and last approximately two hours; ad-
vance booking required.
www.facebook.com/AngosturaMuseumAnd-
BarcantButterflyCollection
UWI Zoology Museum
L
ocated at the Natural Sciences Build-
ing, UWI, St Augustine The University
of the West Indies Zoology Museum is
the largest and most significant collection of
zoological specimens in Trinidad & Tobago.
Tours of the Zoology Museum can be booked
for any time between 8am and 4 pm, Monday
to Friday. Admission: free.
www.facebook.com/uwizoologymuseum
The Barcant Butterfly collection at the Angostura museum
(makers of the famous bitters and rums) comprises more
than 5,000 specimens and is the largest in the region.
courtesyangostura

exploring
heading east
Valencia Eco-Resort
T
his sprawling retreat covers ten acres
of land in Valencia and is a wonderful
escape in the east for the whole fam-
ily. Attractions include a butterfly and bird
sanctuary, a river, a mini-zoo, greenhouses,
and fishing in a tilapia pond. Rods and lines
are provided; you have to walk with bait. You
can keep what you catch – perhaps even
curry or fry it up in one of the outdoor cook-
ing sheds, which come equipped with a gas
tank, ring stove, table, chairs, sink, water and
electricity. Wander among the 95 varieties of
trees, many laden with fruit. Kids won’t get
bored; not with a basketball court, football
field, cricket pitch and a pool all on site. The
resort uses solar water heating, composting
and 100% recycling.
www.facebook.com/valencia.ecoresort
central
La Vega, Gran Couva
T
his 250-acre estate is a lovely, relaxing
way to explore Trinidad’s natural trea-
sures. Just 15 minutes off the Solomon
Hochoy Highway, La Vega is a garden centre,
plant nursery and nature park combined. At
the garden centre you will find ornamentals,
fruit trees, herbs and vegetables, most of
which are produced here in a greenhouse on
the estate. The owner is a fruit aficionado and
cultivates trees from around the world, in-
cluding rambutan, durian, longan, mangoes,
sugar apples, giant peewah and dongs, and
sweet passion fruit. The ornamental collec-
tion includes Thai bougainvilleas, dwarf ixo-
ras, dwarf white frangipani (Plumeria pudica)
and the yellow leaf duranta.
You can find solitude amid the many trees
and trails. Fish for tilapia with bamboo rods
in ponds, take a ride on a pedal boat, ride the
water slides or climb the jungle gym. You can
take a tour of the greenhouses, orchards and
fields and learn about the plants and trees of
Trinidad. A resident chef is on hand to whip
up Thai curries and grilled sandwiches. Try
the premium homemade ice creams or sor-
bets made with local flavours, such as silk fig
and peanut and prune, for dessert.
If you wish to stay overnight, a luxurious
two-storey thatched hut with its own patio
and bathroom is available, as well as catered
meals.
Open daily, 9am to 5pm, including Sun-
days and public holidays, except Christmas
Day, Boxing Day and New Year’s Day. Admis-
sion: TT$25, children under 13, TT$15.
www.lavegaestate.com
anulakhan

ariannethompson
A cool oasis of green, La Vega Estate in Gran Couva
is a wonderful place to relax and unwind, surrounded
by serenity and beautiful scenery. You can also go
fishing or pedal boating, or explore one of the nature trails.

Down south
San Fernando Hill
O
nce a sacred Amerindian site known
as Naparima, the San Fernando Hill
stands like a monument, a green
one, in the midst of all the industry and con-
struction of south Trinidad. From the top you
can see why San Fernando seems even more
crowded and busier than Port of Spain: this
is the commercial hub of the energy indus-
tries in the south-west of the island (you can
see the Pointe-à-Pierre refinery to the north),
on which much of T&T’s enormous wealth is
based. The town has spread in all directions
and up here, parakeets and other birds have
found shelter in the trees. Visitor facilities,
lookouts, picnic huts and a children’s play
park make this a lovely location for a family
outing, and it is one of the main event venues
in the city.
To get to San Fernando Hill, leave the
highway at the San Fernando exit, turn left
onto the San Fernando bypass, and at its
crest take a right turn; almost immediately
Circular Road branches off to the right, and
by Soong’s Great Wall restaurant a small sign-
posted road on the left climbs the hill almost
to the summit.
ariannthompson
San Fernando Hill was known as Naparima to the First Peoples of Trinidad, who
considered it a sacred place of worship. Indeed, the view from the top, overlooking
a sheltered bay in the Gulf of Paria, can bring out your spiritual side. From here, you
can see most of south and central Trinidad.

Vintage car museum
F
or more than 40 years San Fernando businessman Brij
Maharaj has been collecting antique cars and restoring
them. Among his collection are historically important
automobiles, including the oldest working vehicle in the coun-
try – a 1918 Ford Model T Runabout. Many of his cars are the
only examples of their kind locally; while two are believed to
be the only ones in the world today. The museum also has a
collection of antique motorcycles, bicycles and vintage auto-
mobile collectibles.
Brij Maharaj Auto & Heritage Museum, 2 Hubert Rance
Street, Vistabella. Open to the public once a month by ap-
pointment. Admission: free.
brijmaharajmuseum@gmail.com
angelobissessarsingh
At the Brij Maharaj Auto & Heritage
Museum in San Fernando you will find
one of only four Chervolet Phaetons
known to still exist in the world today,
part of a remarkable collection of
antiques that includes the country’s
oldest working car, a Model T Ford, with
a manufacture date circa 1917.

N
inety-five acres of pitch. One massive car park, some
say. And well, basically that’s what the largest deposit
of naturally occurring tar in the world looks like from
the surface. This “slow motion black hole” constantly pulls
things into itself, and is said to have “feelers” stretching out-
ward for several miles, veins of pitch stretching out from the
main lake. It is over 350ft deep at the centre of the lake. A
40ft by 40ft hole refills within three days. Sir Walter Raleigh
first used this pitch to seal his ship to prevent leaks. The tar
has been actively mined for many years, and the asphalt col-
lected has been used on roads and airport runways around
the world.
Some parts are almost liquid and can be pulled up, like
taffy. You will see small bubbling puddles and smell the gases
that escape from within.
the pitch
lake La Brea
Forget what it looks like – it’s what’s inside that matters
ariannthompson
The Pitch Lake is the largest natural deposit of asphalt in the world. The
lake, located in La Brea in the south of Trinidad, is 350ft deep and is
believed to be caused by the intersection of two faults through which oil
from a deep deposit is forced up.

ariannthompson
The lighter elements in the oil evaporate, leaving
behind the heavier asphalt. As far back as 1595
explorer Walter Raleigh used some of it to caulk his
ship; more recently, it was exported to the US where
it was used to pave streets in New York City.

shopping
T
he San Antonio Green Market in Santa Cruz is a one-
stop shop for just about everything: organic produce,
fresh natural juices, curry crab and dumpling, shrimp,
corn soup and roast corn, Trinidad dark chocolate, muffins,
flowers and plants, custom-designed jewellery, hair prod-
ucts, craft, compost, tiles, garden accessories, photographs,
honey, newspaper mesh, homemade greeting cards, Trinidad
and Tobago puzzles, head massages, ducks and fish. Also,
fun activities for children, live music (pan, parang), cooking
demos, conversations on health, nutrition and bringing bal-
ance back, specialty food gifts and condiments. www.face-
book.com/GreenMarketSantaCruz
UpMarket, a monthly gathering of local artists, artisans,
craftspeople, fashion and food is held at the Woodbrook Youth
Centre in Port of Spain. www.facebook.com/UpMarketTT).
Online: www.trinidadTunes.com specialises in local music;
www.TriniTrolley.com sells everything under the sun, including
electronics, clothing, shoes, cosmetics, art and craft and toys;
www.AhPiece.com carries a selection of local art, craft, food
and fashion.
To Market
to market
Note: As in many other
parts of the world, pi-
racy is a thriving busi-
ness, and does untold
damage to local artists,
musicians and writers.
Please buy copyrighted
material such as music
and video from bona
fide businesses, and
avoid anything that
looks as if it might have
been bootlegged. And
please avoid souvenirs
made from endangered
species or rare materials
(like black coral). Thank
you!

The San Antonio Green Market has become a wonderful, relaxing space for the health-conscious
and eco-friendly Trini to shop for organic vegetables and fruits, and local art and craft.
anthonykeungfattpatganase
patganase
Wrought-iron sculptures by Elizabeth
Pohlmann. www.wroughtironartglass.com

Clothing and fabrics
N
othing quite makes a statement
about a place like its fashion. House
of Jaipur is a brand adored by Ca-
ribbean women and now considered one of
their own. Its collection of “ethnic-inspired
resort wear”, as owner Dhisha Moorjani calls
it, is much-loved and sought after across the
region for its unique and colourful slant on
casual glamour and elegance. Moorjani, a
Trinidadian designer, is proud to clothe wom-
en in these beautifully hand-embroidered and
beaded pieces created by artisans in India
who excel in this traditional art. A little black
dress from Meiling is a must-have for every
woman with taste... Other celebrated local
designers include The Cloth, Claudia Pegus,
Heather Jones, the Wadada Movement, and
Anya Ayoung-Chee.
Indian fashion, accessories, fabrics, tex-
tiles, home décor, and jewellery are very pop-
ular and can be found at the numerous Indian
stores in Aranjuez, Chaguanas, Tunapuna and
Debe, as well as Indian expos dotted around
the country (look for huge tents and signs).
If you’re looking for something special
and unique, local jewellery designers cre-
ate breathtaking hand-crafted jewellery in
gold and precious stones, including Jasmine
Girvan-Thomas, Janice Derrick, Rachel Ross,
Gillian Bishop and Chris Anderson. Akilah
Jaramogi produces ecological jewellery –
dramatic polished necklaces, bracelets and
earrings made from seeds and beads from
the forest and natural materials. www.face-
book.com/AkilahsJewelry
Made in
trinidad
Souvenirs
E
xcellent City Centre in Port of Spain
is considered the heart of downtown
shopping, with everything you could
possibly need under one roof – from designer
clothing and shoes, to phones, electronics
and jewellery – plus a bakery and a food court.
Here you will find everything for the home, in-
cluding appliances, bathroom and bedroom
items, toys, school supplies, children’s cloth-
ing, books and souvenirs. You can also shop
online at www.excellentstorestt.com.
anulakhan
Colourful fabrics can be found at stores that specialise in
Indian wear such as House of Jaipur.
Unique gifts

Rum ’n tings
H
ouse of Angostura’s specialty rum can be
bought at large supermarkets and duty-
free shops. Look out for local fruit wines,
our million and one home-made pepper sauces,
chutneys and amchar (tamarind and mango).
If you see someone selling bottles of home-
made pepper sauce anywhere, buy it. Warning:
The pepper sauce known as “mudder in law” is
named after sharp-tongued mothers-in-law and
considered lethal, so approach with due caution.
For unique leather craft, Frederick Street in
Port of Spain is the place to find leather slippers,
pouches and calabash handbags.
A steelpan
N
othing says Trinidad like a pan. It is
our national instrument and a joy for
any musician to get his hands on. The
tenor pan, or lead pan, carries the melody and-
can play 29 notes over 2.5 octaves in the higher
register, while the new G-Pan, invented by a
University of the West Indies team, can play 37
over four octaves. If you are interested in pur-
chasing a pan, contact: Pantrinibago, Port of
Spain, Tel: 623-4486; Trinidad and Tobago Pan
Instruments Company Ltd., Port of Spain, Tel:
799-1715; Lincoln Enterprises Ltd, Woodbrook,
Tel. 683-8071.
Books & magazines
L
ocal fiction and non-fiction, and locally
produced magazines, of which there are
many, can be found at Paper Based at the
Hotel Normandie in St Ann’s, or the RIK and Ni-
gel R Khan bookstore chains.

S
ome of the best cocoa in the world
comes from Trinidad and Tobago. Trin-
itario, which is indigenous to the is-
lands, is used by the French luxury chocolate
manufacturer Valrhona in its single estate
chocolates. It is one of the leading producers
of gastronomic chocolate in the world and its
products are used in high-end restaurants.
Valrhona produces vintage chocolate made
from beans of a single year’s harvest from a
specific plantation.
The village of Gran Couva in Central Trini-
dad is home to one of the island’s oldest plan-
tations, San Antonio Estate, where the age-old
cocoa variety of Trinitario is grown. The estate
produces some of the rarest and most aro-
matic beans on the planet. The fact that they
are produced in limited quantities makes
them all the more precious.
For a tour of the estate, which is the main
collection point for cocoa grown by the Mont-
serrat Cocoa Farmers Co-operative Society
(their cocoa and chocolates can be bought).
Tel. 679-9515. rdeverteuil@gmail.com
Ortinola Great House
The famous Cadbury Brothers of England
entered into a deal with another English
firm with vast property in Trinidad to
supply cocoa from Ortinola Estate in the
Maracas Valley, St Joseph, in the 1880s.
This magnificent estate covers nine
acres of trees and undulating grassland,
the perfect setting for many a wedding.
The lush valley is home to the ubiquitous
hummingbird and other stunners. The
great house has been restored and is
often used for family reunions, celebra-
tions, retreats, and conferences. You can
make reservations for afternoon tea on
Sundays and stroll through the lovely
grounds of the estate, beneath the shad-
ow of the mountains. You can also go on
a tour of the cocoa estate, which may in-
clude a sample of local chocolate.
www.ortinola.com
the finest
cocoa in the world
Cacique Chocolates
This gourmet chocolate – fine dark,
white, milk or sugar-free – is handcrafted
and coupled with flavours like passion
fruit, orange, caramel, guava and coco-
nut. Truffles are also available.
caciquechocolates@hotmail.com

Cocobel chocolate
COCOBEL chocolate starts at Rancho
Quemado Estate, located in the south
of Trinidad, where the country’s world-
famous fine Trinitario cocoa is harvested,
fermented and dried in the sun.
At the Cocobel workshop, cocoa
beans are transformed into chocolate
through meticulous roasting, grinding
and refining – each stage measured only
by the chocolate maker’s senses. Then
the magic ingredients are combined with
the dark chocolate: freshly picked herbs
and spices are blended into tropical fruit
purées that capture the unique palette
of quintessential Trinbagonian flavours,
such as mango pepper, pineapple chow,
guava cheese, sorrel, tonka bean and
ponche a crème.
www.cocobelchocolate.com
courtesycocobel
courtesytobagoestates

accommodation
A
s befits the ‘Saudi Arabia of the Caribbean’, Trinidad’s
hotels are among the best in the region for both busi-
ness travellers and world leaders. As the host of two
world summits in 2009, the island’s major hotels accommo-
dated hundreds of dignitaries and entourages with consum-
mate ease.
As an energy giant, Trinidad is a frequent stop for oil ex-
ecutives and energy experts. Our many conference centres
are always in demand by corporations, churches and regional
organisations. You can find clean, comfortable accommoda-
tion to suit your budget at boutique hotels, guesthouses, inns
and eco-retreats across the island.
Where to spend
the night
courtesykapokhotel

WithaprimelocationintheheartofdowntownPortofSpain,HyattRegencyTrinidadis
thepremierehotelforanytypeofgetaway.Spacioussuitesofferspectaculargulfviews,
ﬂat-screentelevisionsandoursignatureHyattGrandBed,whileour9,000square-foot
locallyinspiredspaandrooftopinﬁnitypooloverlookingthegulfprovidealuxurious
retreat.World-classcuisineanddeluxefacilitiesdesignedtoaccommodateweddings,
eventsandpartiesofallsizesensureguestswillgetthemostoutoftheirstay.For
reservations,call8686232222orvisittrinidad.hyatt.com.
Escapetheordinary.Discover
HyattRegencyTrinidad.
HYATT name, design and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2014 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.
HYATT REGENCY TRINIDAD
1 Wrghtson Road, Port of Spain
868 623 2222

San Fernando
– the energy hub
Tradewinds
T
his landmark hotel in one of South’s classiest communi-
ties is mere minutes away from the bustling city of San
Fernando, restaurants, clubs and shopping malls as well
as San Fernando Hill, an exhilarating green escape above it all.
Corporate travellers and investors will appreciate the elegant
décor and wonderful ambience of this charming southern
beauty. The service is remarkable and the food is excellent – the
Caesar salad and the lobster have received kudos.
Long-term visitors especially begin to feel that the hotel is
really their home. Nothing is too much trouble for the staff. One
frequent flyer said he had never come across such a warm and
inviting place to stay.
courtesyroyalhotel

Do business Trini style – invite associates
over for a lime and order the Liming Menu! In
the dry season the outdoor deck is the per-
fect spot to take in a game on big screens. On
weekends you can shake a leg to live music.
The bar comes highly recommended as a great
training ground for
perfecting your lim-
ing skills. Let out the
stress of tight dead-
lines or tough deals
with some good old
karaoke one evening.
Spacious rooms
decorated in Carib-
bean colours make
you feel at home.
Business travellers
will appreciate the many services to make
life so much easier – from wake-up calls to
a doctor being on call. A business centre
and meeting facilities are available, as well
as complimentary coffee, laundry service,
kitchen, massage, sauna, currency exchange
and room service. The gym is open every
day; and car rental and tours to any part of
the island can be arranged for you.
Also down south is Royal Hotel. A gi-
ant samaan tree spreads its many arms in
welcome at this re-
laxing oasis, where
the staff are help-
ful and friendly. The
hotel’s central loca-
tion makes getting
into and out of the
city easy – you can
get a route taxi to
downtown San Fer-
nando just outside
the gate for less
than US$1 one way. You can stroll down the
road to food shops selling roti, doubles and
other local delights. Just round the bend, up
from the gas station, is the entrance to San
Fernando Hill, a breath of fresh air and a re-
warding spot for a bit of hiking and birding.
travellers will appreciate
the elegant décor and
wonderful ambience of this
charming southern beauty
“
“

Discover Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide 2015 (Issue #26)

Discover Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide 2015 (Issue #26)

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Discover Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide 2015 (Issue #26)