1. loewsmagazine
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Loews
Living
canada’s
culture
capitals
Right:
Place Royale in Old Quebec
Opposite page: One
of Loews Hôtel Vogue’s
romantic canopy beds
Montreal and
Quebec city’s
artful offerings
span more than
their French
heritage.
The strong French influence in Montreal and Quebec City makes
some think that they’re Old World outposts in the New World. In
fact, some refer to Montreal as the Paris of North America. But it
really isn’t. The character of both cities is much more complex—
and so are their cultural charms.
That’s why you can explore 18th-century buildings during
the day, then check out cutting-edge indie rock bands at night.
Or snack on local French Canadian delights like poutine and for
lunch, try a spicy Middle Eastern sujuk sandwich—or pizza that
will make you think you’re in Naples. You can gaze at exquisite
art in world-class museums or experience homegrown culture
at a quirky winter carnival that includes a canoe race that takes
place on a half-frozen river.
Regardless of which culture capital you choose to explore
first, each has a Loews hotel that’s an ideal jumping off point for
cultural adventures.
MONTREAL
A number of this city’s cultural coolspots are found in the
downtown area—conveniently close to the charming AAA 4-
Diamond Loews Hôtel Vogue, which made Travel and Leisure
magazine’s 2010 list of 500 Best Hotels. As
you walk into its graceful, intimate marble
lobby, you are immediately welcomed and
made to feel at home. But while wrapped
by abel delgado

2. 59
“a number of
montreal’s key
cultural coolspots
are in the downtown
area, located
conveniently close
to loews HOtel
Vogue.”
in elegantly stylish design, what really makes for a memorable
stay here goes beyond décor or comforts: people drive the
Loews Hôtel Vogue experience. Guests enjoy the fact that the
hotel staff not only greets them by name but also remember
their dog’s name...and they’re happy to take him for a walk!
Loews Hôtel Vogue’s people power is also found in L’Opera bar
in the lobby, where Francine, the masterful bartender, knows
the favorite drinks of the regulars—and the soon-to-be-regulars.
A first stay at Loews Hôtel Vogue is never your last! And when
you need reservations at a hot new restaurant, the connections
of Louis-Philippe, a double Golden Key concierge, make all the
difference. Guest rooms also balance warmth and elegance,
with a soft color palette and Old World touches like the romantic
BY abel delgado
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This page: Bonsecours Market
Opposite page, top:
A street scene from Montreal
Opposite page, bottom:
L’Astral, Loews Hôtel Le
Concorde
canopy beds found in 25 of the 142 rooms and suites. Expansive,
all-marble bathrooms feature a jetted soaking tub, velvety robes
and silky-smooth bath products. From this home base, you can
easily stroll into Montreal’s cosmopolitan cultural offerings—and
the following rundown will get on your way.
The Golden Square Mile District | This area is where Loews
Hôtel Vogue is located, and it was the home of the city’s elite
until 1930. These days, it’s home to the Montreal Museum of Fine
Arts, Canada’s oldest art institution. The permanent collection
features works by both Canadian masters—like Borduas, Morris
and Riopelle—and international luminaries like Picasso, Matisse
and Cézanne. Current and upcoming exhibitions focus on the
fascinating paintings of Otto Rix, cutting-edge contemporary
works from young artists, the couture creations of Jean Paul
Gaultier and ancient Chinese military artifacts. Also nearby is
the Canadian Centre for Architecture, with exhibitions revealing
the creative process of figures like Matta-Clark. Upcoming
exhibitions explore the impact of migration on the environment,
the role of architecture during World War II and the work of
Pritzker Prize laureate James Stirling.
Old Montreal | Located about 15 minutes away from Loews
Hôtel Vogue by taxi or metro, this area lets you time travel back
to the 18th century. Place Jacques-Cartier is popular and has all
kinds of fun street performers, but narrow Rue St.-Paul seems
to take you back with its cobblestoned streets, iron balconies
and stunning stone facades. Here you’ll find Bonsecours
Market, a historic 19th-century market that today is home to
shops featuring Quebecois products. Make time to explore the
Notre-Dame Basilica, known for its jaw-dropping Gothic Revival
architecture. On the same street as the church is impressive
Montreal City Hall, originally built in the 1870s and rebuilt in the
1920s, and Château Ramezay, a former governor’s mansion
that dates back to 1705.
Montreal Music | Indie rock bands like Arcade Fire, the Deers
and Wolf Parade have helped make Montreal a music mecca in
recent years. Head to the Plateau area, specifically Boulevard
Saint Laurent, to explore clubs like Divan Orange and concert
venues like Casa de Popolo. The burgeoning music scene led
to Pop Montreal, an annual festival that happens at the end of
September or early October and features hundreds of indie rock,
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alternative, hip hop and folk artists. It’s bigger every year and
rivaling Austin’s South by South West and New York’s CMJ. If
your taste runs more to pop and jazz, the Montreal Jazz Festival
kicks off in late June with big names like Sonny Rollins and Stevie
Wonder and lesser-known but amazing talents like Ibrahim
Maalouf and Chantale Gagné. In early June, Les Francofolies
de Montreal showcases music stars from The French-speaking
world like Pierre Lapointe and Catherine Major.
Food Markets | A quick taxi or metro ride from Hôtel Vogue will
also get you in touch with the city’s rich food culture. At Atwater
Market, you can explore more than 400 different types of cheese
at La Fromagerie while also browsing farm-fresh local produce.
Stop by Première Moisson bakery for their flaky croissants
and delectable patés. Jean-Talon market, located in Little Italy,
caters more to locals. You can eat your way around the market
with free samples of creamy cheeses, exotic spices, exquisite
olive oils and more. Be sure to try the sweet and savory crepes,
as well as the ice cream from Havre de Glace. Near the market
are a range of Italian grocery stores and restaurants serving a
range of delicacies you can enjoy there or take home with you.
QUEBEC CITY
The AAA 4-Diamond Loews Le Concorde provides a unique
perspective on Quebec City, starting with its location. It’s set
on the highest point in the city, so from an east room you can
see the Laurentian Mountains, Old Quebec’s Citadel and the
Island of Orleans. Looking out from the west side, you’ll view
the Plains of Abraham, the St. Lawrence River and Joan of Arc
Garden. Beyond sights, here you’ll gain insights into the city’s
rich food culture: every Friday you can go to the lobby to try
homegrown delights like artisanal cheeses from Tourilli Farms
or smoked fish from the Jos Paquet Fishery on the Island of
Orleans. Then you can see how master chefs turn these
delights into exquisite dishes by going to L’Astral, the hotel’s
rooftop restaurant. Winner of La Carte d’or for its oustanding
wine list, L’Astral offers exceptional cuisine served up amid 360°
views. While you’re sampling tender, perfectly cooked rack of
lamb, rich, buttery maple crepes or succulent piglet pot-au-feu
with turnip and Panice chick peas, the restaurant slowly rotates,
giving you an unparalleled panoramic view of the city. Loews Le
Concorde partners with the city’s outstanding cultural events,
like the Winter Carnival, making it a great base to explore and
experience the essentials of a stunningly beautiful city ranked
by Conde Nast Traveler magazine as the 10th-best destination
in the world.
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Old Quebec | Two blocks from Le Concorde you can enter
this UNESCO World Heritage site through the Saint Louis Gate.
You’ll be in Upper Town. Head to Place d’Armes and look for
the gorgeous Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, built in 1804. If you
explore Rue de Tresor, you can browse the works of local artists
and eventually run into Rue St-Jean, one of Old Quebec’s main
shopping and dining areas. Several blocks away you’ll see
Place d’Youville, a vibrant square where you can watch street
performers in summer or ice skate in winter. Also in the area
is Artillery Park, a historic military barracks from the 1700s.
Be sure to stop by the Citadel, a fascinating fortress from the
time Britain and France fought over control of Canada. To go to
Lower Town, it’s easier to take a funicular, which is kind of like
a cable car but set on a track. Start exploring Lower Town from
Place Royale, the main square: it features historic homes and all
kinds of shops with local treasures made in Quebec province.
Musée de la Civilisation | Located in Lower Town of Old
Quebec, near the waterfront, the Musée documents Quebec’s
history with an evocative exhibition. You can also learn about
the First Nations, the Quebecois who predate the Europeans, in
another intricate display. The Musée also features two interactive
exhibits, one in which kids can dress up and act out fairy tales
and another in which you get a hands-on understanding of how
the Earth is put together.
Party Times | Running from January 28 to February 13,
2011, the Quebec Winter Carnival is the city’s Mardi Gras. It’s
held weekend to weekend in Old Quebec, and while it has
parades like any good carnival, it also has events that are pure
Quebecois quirkiness. For instance, there are dogsled races, an
international snow sculpture competition and
a canoe race on the semi-frozen St. Lawrence
river—competitors actually drag their vessels
part of the way. Place Desjardins is where the main Carnival
action happens, and it’s right behind Le Concorde. The SAQ
New France Festival is another party you shouldn’t miss: it takes
place in early August, celebrating Quebec’s French heritage
with parades, traditional music and more than 700 performers
dressed in period costumes who act out French colonial life.
Le Chemins Invisible | If you visit Quebec in the summer,
you can see a special Cirque du Soleil show unavailable in the
U.S.—for free. It’s called Le Chemins Invisible and takes place
from late June to early September every night in L’Îlot Fleurie,
located in Nouvo St. Roch neighborhood. The storyline of Le
Chemins Invisible centers on three tribes who travel to the realm
of another tribe, the Embarrassants, who seem to symbolize
marginalized members of society. Good luck following the plot
points: you’ll probably be too busy being amazed by the colorful
costumes, ethereal music and amazing acrobatics. The show
takes place around 8 p.m. and lasts for around 90 minutes.
Image Mill | This is a wild architectural projection done on the
grain silos of Quebec Harbour in the summer; originally it was
created for Quebec City’s 400th anniversary in 2008. Using
27 projectors, 40 million pixels and 300 speakers, Image Mill
takes viewers through Quebec’s history through a lightning-
paced series of images, blending illustrations of French explorer
Samuel de Champlain with photos of buildings, historical figures,
graffiti art, famous singers like Alys Roby and other Quebecois
touchpoints, all set to a rocking soundtrack. The 40-minute
spectacular will run from June 21 to September 5 of next year.
“beyond luxurious
accommodations
and superb service,
Loews HÔTEL Le
CONCORDE provides
a unique perspective
on quebec, starting
with its location.”
Right:
Preliminary canoe
races at the Quebec
Winter Carnival
Loews
Living
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