Jordan offers a mix of historical sites, natural beauty, and relaxation opportunities. Key attractions include Petra's ancient temples, Wadi Rum's desert scenery, and floating in the Dead Sea. The Evason Ma'in Hot Springs and Six Senses Spa is a top resort near the Dead Sea, while Amman offers historical sites and the lively Hashem restaurant. Visitors can experience Bedouin culture through desert camping or a traditional underground Zarb meal.

1. 48hours
Jordan
Nick Rice travels to an ancient cradle of civilization and is cloaked by tumescent silence, awed
by natural beauty and soothed by the healing waters of the Dead Sea.
WHY GO? WHERE TO STAY
Steeped in a religious past and rich in culture, The Evason Ma’in Hot Springs & Six Senses Spa is
Jordan appeals to anyone interested in history, out- an unforgettable place to stay and a perfect Middle
door activities in a stunning environment and those Eastern resort and spa experience. Just 30 kilometres
seeking unadulterated relaxation and rejuvenation. from the mosaic city of Madaba and a scenic one-
After visiting historical sights and enjoying a hour drive from Ammam International airport, it is
trek or bicycle tour, head down, way down, to the an ideal oasis for relaxation and exploring. Lying at
lowest point on the planet for some rejuvenation by 264 metres below sea level, surrounded by spectacu-
floating in the Dead Sea. According to legend it was lar mountain landscapes and with natural hot springs
the Queen of Sheba who first ascribed wondrous and waterfalls just minutes from your door, it is a
healing properties to the Dead Sea. Another tourist memorable place with flawless Bedouin hospitality.
was Queen Cleopatra who built the world’s first spa Other options near the Dead Sea include the
there, and her armies returned to Egypt laden with Movenpick Resort & Spa and the Jordan Valley
precious minerals at her behest. The world is now Marriott Resort & Spa. For a full range of options go
playing catch up with the Egyptian queen and several to VisitJordan.com
new palatial spas are cropping up around the shores
of this mystical sea. WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK
Jordanian food is varied, tasty and, almost without
WHAT TO DO exception, healthy. Lots of delicious salads and
Any trip to Jordan should include a visit to the roasted meats abound. In Amman, ask any local
ancient city of Petra. Recently dubbed one of the which restaurant you should dine in and the reply
seven modern wonders of the world, this complex will be unanimous – Hashem. Don’t be fooled by
of dizzyingly high temples carved into the pink- the simplistic interior and no fuss service. This
tinged rock faces will have you awestruck. Join one humble restaurant tucked away down a little side
of the ‘Petra by night’ tours where being in a party of alley opposite the Cliff Hotel is a perfect place to
several hundred tourists does little to detract from watch the world go by whilst enjoying the best
the experience of seeing the Siq (rock canyon) and falafel, hummus and mint tea in town – and all for
the Treasury illuminated by candles alone. a single dinar. Considerably more expensive but
Another uniquely Jordanian experience can favoured by hip Ammanites, Wild Jordan is the
be found in Wadi Rum. This protected swathe of café in the Royal Society for the Conservation of
desert is still home to Bedouin tribes and they have Nature’s headquarters. This beautiful building on
opened up this dramatic scenery to eager tourists by Rainbow Street has stunning views over Amman.
running jeep tours, camel treks, hikes and desert Trendy rather than traditional, they hold Jazz eve-
camping. Beware of cowboy operators trying to part nings and family breakfasts with activities for kids.
you from your cash for a substandard tour; only the The food is good, typical café fare with a Middle
real Bedouins are granted licences to access this Eastern bent and great fruit juices. Internet access
protected reserve so do your homework. Sunset Camp
(wadirumsunset.com) and Wadi Rum Adventures
(wadirumadventures.com) are both recommended.
Opposite page (clockwise from bottom left): Roman Amphi-
In Amman, the Roman amphitheatre and the
theatre in downtown Amman; Ruins in the city of Madaba, best
citadel are rated as the capital’s most impressive sites. known for its Byzantine and Umayyad mosaics; sea level sign by
You could pick up a cheap kite at one of the market the Dead Sea; Fruit and Vegetable market in Amman; Night view of
candles burning at the facade of Treasury Al Khazneh; Tourist at a
stalls on your way up the hill and join the hoards of beach at the Dead Sea; Wadi Rum desert Madaba; Travelling water
children decorating the skyline. and tamarind juice salesman in Umm Qais.
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July 2009 87

3. 48hours
is also available.
For a more traditional ambience try Reem El
Bouadi on Garden Street and in the evenings
make sure to attend at least one Zarb. Gathered on
cushions around low tables you can enjoy the
traditional Bedouin method of cooking food below
the ground. A three-tiered rack laden with chicken,
lamb and a huge pot of rice is lowered into the
ground and sealed air tight with clay. After several
hours the meat has become melt-in-the-mouth
tender and the rice on the lower tier has cooked in
the meaty juices. Reclining under the stars to the
sound of traditional songs played on the oud, this is
the perfect way to enjoy dinner in the desert.
MUST DO Above: A traditional Zarb meal is raised from the ground.
At the Dead Sea everyone should get the clichéd but Middle: The 25 per cent salt content of the Dead Sea allows one
classic photograph of reading a magazine whilst to float on the surface.
floating in the salty waters. Bottom: The swimming pool and the hot spring waterfall at the
Evason Ma’in Six Senses Spa.
TRIP TIP
The Jerash Festival of Culture and Arts takes place
annually in late July and is a spectacular showcase
of singers and musical troupes, symphony orch-
estras, ballet, theatre, handicrafts and art shows. If
you don’t already speak the language, learn some
Arabic and seize the opportunity to talk to the locals
Travel Information
The climate in Jordan is pleasantly temperate with hot and dry summers
and experience their open and friendly nature and
and cold, wet winters. The evenings are generally cool and most rain
welcoming warmth. ❖ falls between October and March. The currency is Jordanian Dinars
(1.00 USD = 0.709080 JOD).
GETTING THERE
Emirates Airlines flies 14 times a week between Dubai and Ammam.
The Emirates Associate Hotel is the Sheraton Ammam Al Nabil Hotel &
Towers. Tel +962 6 593 4111 or starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien
RESOURCES
Jordan Tourism Board (+ 962 6 5678444; VisitJordan.com)
Check the website for event listings and itinerary ideas.
FURTHER READING
Jordan by Lonely Planet offers a broad review of hotels, restaurants
and activities.
Cities of Salt by Jordanian writer Abdelrahman Munif is an epic
tale set in an unnamed Arab Gulf state. The story chronicles the
transformation of a traditional desert society following the discovery
of oil.
King Abdullah, Britain and the Making of Jordan by Mary
Christina Wilson is a definitive study of King Abdullah, his relations with
Britain and his role in the creation of Jordan.
FAST FACT
In Jordan, it is usually polite to decline the offer of a meal three times
before accepting.
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