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get rolling with
                                Wegmans




     More and more people are eating        Vegetable Roll—(Shown above)
                                            With avocado, cucumber, carrots, and your
         sushi these days, and it’s no      choice of our Wegmans exclusive short-
                                            grain white rice or whole-grain brown rice.
        surprise. It’s fresh, delicious,
                                            Green Vegetable Roll— A very
       and comes with lots of options       American version of sushi, with slivers
      (not just raw fish). If you’ve ever   of asparagus, spinach, and cucumber with
                                            creamy garlic mayo.
      been curious to try, or just want
                                            Avocado Summer Spring Roll—
     to learn more about your favorite      Green leaf lettuce, cucumber, avocado,
                                            and shredded red cabbage, in a
        lunch, here’s a little sushi 101.   transparent spring roll wrapper.
70
California Roll—(Shown above)               Wasabi Tuna Roll—(Shown above)
Featuring our Wegmans exclusive             Ahi tuna with cucumber, scallion, and
crabstick (Kanakami), avocado, cucumber,    wasabi mayonnaise rolled in nori with
and our exclusive short-grain white rice.   rice and black sesame seeds.

Spicy Lump Crab Roll—One of our             Tuna Nigiri—Our sashimi-grade tuna
signature items, with cooked crab, spicy    has a rich yet delicate flavor.
sauce, cucumber, and scallions.
                                            Spicy Tuna Roll—Made with our
Shrimp Tempura Roll—                        specialty tuna, spicy sauce, scallions,
Tempura-fried shrimp, spicy sauce, and      cucumbers, masago (roe), and rice, in a
shredded lettuce with tempura krispies      nori seaweed wrap.
and savory-sweet teriyaki sauce.

                                                                                      71
Wasabi wä-sä-be
                                                           This spicy-hot horseradish
                                                           mix is served as a condiment
                                                           with sushi.

                                                           Taste the
                                                           Wegmans Difference
                                                           The first ingredient in our
 Nigiri ni-ger-e                                         wasabi is natural Japanese
 Small pillows of sushi                                    wasabi—a major investment
 rice topped with raw                                      on our part. Others use
 or cooked seafood.                                        green food color and
                                                           horseradish powder.




                                                                     Here are some basic sushi terms
                                                                     to get you started, whether
                                                                     you’re trying our made-to-order
                                                                     rolls or something fresh from our
                                                                     display case.
           -
     sü-she “seasoned rice”                                        Taste the
                                                                     Wegmans Difference
                                                                     and see why our sushi is so special.




                                                           Taste the
                                                           Wegmans Difference
                                                           Shrimp
                                                           From a sustainable Canadian
                                                           fishery, these Northern Pink
                  Kanikama kän-e-kä-mä                   Shrimp are light and fantastically
                  Also known as crabstick, this popular    sweet. You won’t find these on
                  sushi ingredient is imitation crabmeat   any other sushi bar.
                  made from whitefish.
                                                           Taste the
                  Taste the                                Wegmans Difference
                  Wegmans Difference
                                                           Spicy Sauce
                  Our recipe is a Wegmans                  Another exclusive for us, this blend
                  exclusive: All natural, sustainable      of sriracha sauce, hot sesame oil,
                  seafood, with no preservatives,          chili oil, and mayo takes any sushi
                  MSG, or gluten.                          item to another level.
72
Nori no-re
                                                     This traditional Japanese
                                                     wrap is made using specially
                                                     processed dried seaweed.

                                      Taste the
                                      Wegmans Difference
                                      Veggie and Fruit Wraps
                                      If you want to try something different from
                                      the traditional nori seaweed wrap, these
                                      are great—especially for the beginner sushi
                                      eater. We have flavors like BBQ, carrot-
                                      ginger, mango-chipotle, and tomato-basil.



Taste the                                            Sashimi sä-she-me
                                                     Just the fish, cooked or uncooked.
Wegmans Difference
Rice                                                 Taste the
We’re the only retailer in the US                    Wegmans Difference
using this traditional Tamaki Gold                   Superfrozen bigeye tuna
short-grain rice for sushi. Freshly                  Our richly flavored all-natural
milled for us in California each                     tuna is higher in fat than
month, it’s simply the best.                         standard yellowfin. It’s quickly
                                                     frozen to -67°F right on the boat,
Taste the
                                                     so you get what our supplier calls
Wegmans Difference
                                                     “fresher than fresh” taste.
Rice Vinegar
We worked with our supplier to                       Taste the
create our own vinegar blend—it                      Wegmans Difference
delivers the perfect balance of                      Salmon
sweet, salty, and sour.                              Our sushi salmon comes from the
                                                     same British Columbia supplier
                                                     who provides our Seafood
                                                     Department’s superb farm-raised
                                                     salmon. Specially processed to
                                                     our standards, right near the
                                                     farm, then shipped straight to us.


                                                     Pickled ginger
                                                     This thinly shaved fresh
                                                     ginger root is a sparkling
                                                     palate cleanser.

                                                     Taste the
                                                     Wegmans Difference
                                                     We only use smaller
                                                     ginger root for its superior
                                                     tenderness. Larger ginger can
                                                     be woody and tough.
                                                     Ours is always tender
                                                     and flavorful.
                                                                                          73
Wegmans sushi:
             Raising the bar                                    By Janet Fletcher
                                                                Photography
                                                                by Yasu Nakaoka

                     America’s appetite for sushi is soaring, and who would have
                     thought it? A generation ago, a sushi dinner meant an exotic
                     night out in a restaurant where you probably didn’t quite know
                     the ropes. Today, many youngsters think of sushi as no more
                     foreign than a slice of pizza—an attitude shift reflected in the
                     spiking sushi sales at Wegmans.
 Assortment of
 Wegmans Sushi       “Sushi has gone from trendy to mainstream, but most retailers
                     weren’t doing anything special with it,” says John Emerson,
                     executive chef in charge of sushi for all Wegmans stores. “We
                     saw this as a tremendous opportunity to offer something no
                     other food market had.”

                     Wegmans opened its first in-store sushi bar in 1996 and has
                     steadily introduced sushi to more stores and hired more
                     experts. But two years ago, with customer interest so strong,
                     management decided it was time to dive deep: to invest in the
                     education, equipment and ingredients necessary to produce
                     “sushi house-quality” fare. Wegmans knew its sushi was good,
                     but could it be great?




74
First stop: Japan. With the help of Uoriki, a company
that operates more than 40 retail seafood markets in Tokyo,
Wegmans sent Emerson and three sushi chefs to Japan for an
immersion in the sushi craft.

Sounds like fun, but the schedule was grueling. On several days,
the agenda started at 4 a.m. with a visit to the city’s famed Tsukiji
Fish Market, the largest in the world. At this bustling wholesale
emporium, the Uoriki chefs showed the Wegmans team how they
select fish from the world’s finest suppliers. The visiting chefs
also learned how to fillet a whole giant tuna in the Japanese
manner, a ritual that typically involves three people and a set of
specialized knives, including one knife more than six feet long.

The American group spent afternoons in Uoriki’s retail stores,
assisting their employees as they prepared sashimi and sushi for
the world’s most discriminating audience. In the evenings, they
headed to restaurants to work side-by-side with top Japanese
chefs before sitting down to dinner themselves.




                                                                        Once back in the U.S, the real work began. Every
                                                                        element and ingredient of the Wegmans sushi program was
                                                                        scrutinized in light of what the team had learned. New sources
                                                                        for tuna, rice, vinegar, and even wasabi were researched, taste-
                                                                        tested, and selected.

                                                                        “We were using a cold-smoked tuna that almost everybody in the
                                                                        industry used, but we decided that it wasn’t good enough,” says
                                                                        Emerson. Tuna suppliers had devised the smoking process to
                                                                        preserve tuna’s watermelon-red color. The smoke leaves no taste
                                                                        and keeps the flesh from browning, so the tuna appears fresh
                                                                        even when it isn’t. Wegmans chefs wanted a better alternative.

                                                                        Ironically, Emerson and his team determined that the best,
                                                                        freshest tuna is frozen at sea. Because tuna boats can spend
                                                                        many days on the water, “fresh” tuna can be three weeks old
                                                                        by the time it reaches stores, Emerson learned. In contrast,
                                                                        boats equipped with so-called superfreezers can haul the tuna
                                                                        in live, process them humanely, and chill them to -76˚F—the
                                                                        point at which all cell activity stops—within 20 hours. Michael
                                                                        McNicholas, operations and quality control manager for Uoriki,
                                                                        says “You put a perfect tuna in, you get a perfect tuna out.”

                                                                        At great expense, Uoriki installed superfreezers in Wegmans
                                                                        stores to keep the tuna at peak condition. When thawed,
                                                                        “it is as if they just came out of the water,” says Emerson.
                                                                        Although yellowfin tuna is the norm for retail sushi in the U.S.,
                                                                        Wegmans insisted on the higher-fat bigeye, the species preferred
                               Wegmans Chef John Emerson                for sushi in Japan.
                               (top photo, in red jacket) led his
                               team on 4 a.m. learning trips            Uroiki also worked with Wegmans to improve its kanikama
                               to Tokyo’s Tsukiji fish market,          (crabstick), a sushi-bar favorite that often includes preservatives
                               followed by daily work with the          and MSG. After many tweaks, Chef Emerson got the more
                               city’s best sushi chefs.                 natural kanikama he wanted, prepared from sustainable seafood
                                                                        without gluten or MSG.
                                                                                                                                              75
Avocado
                           Summer
                         Spring Roll




                                       Even the wasabi got an upgrade. At many retail sushi counters,
                                       the “wasabi” is actually Western horseradish with chili oil and
                                       food coloring. Wegmans wanted the real stuff: authentic, all-
                                       natural Japanese wasabi, to complement the other top-shelf
                                       ingredients. “You can feel the texture of the real wasabi on your
                                       tongue,” says McNicholas. “It has a purer flavor, without
                                       a stinging burn.” The heightened quality focus means greater
                                       expense, but it’s worth the investment. To be able to offer this
                                       authentic wasabi, even the packaging had to change: serving it
                                       in airtight packets helps retain its vibrant green color.

     Bringing it home:                 Perhaps the most surprising lesson the Wegmans team learned
     Wegmans’ John                     in Japan concerned rice and the importance of freshness. Who
     Emerson helps                     knew that superior sushi requires rice that has been freshly
     prep seafood                      milled? Discriminating Japanese chefs consider the rice too old if
     at one of our                     it was milled more than six weeks before.
     popular in-store
     Sushi Fests.                      After considerable legwork and help from Uoriki, Wegmans found
                                       a California farm growing the short-grain rice used for sushi in
                                       Japan. In fact, the Japanese import this rice and have honored it
                                       with awards—the only American rice with that distinction. Even
                                       better, the farm operates its own mill and was willing to process
                                       rice to order for Wegmans.

                                       “It was an enormous investment in quality on our part,” says
                                       Emerson of this costly rice. “But I don’t know any other operation
                                       that’s getting fresh-milled rice, except Morimoto restaurant in
                                       Philadelphia.”

                                       For Emerson and his sushi team, the learning adventure hasn’t
                                       ended. To show off their newfound skills, they hatched the
                                       idea of a Sushi Festival, featuring whole fish flown in from
                                       Tsukiji Market and whole tuna that they dispatch with great
                                       showmanship in front of shoppers. These festivals,
                                       which will continue, have drawn enthusiastic crowds, including
                                       many expatriates thrilled to find fish they haven’t seen since
                                       leaving Japan.

                                       For Wegmans chefs, implementing the finest sushi has been a
                                       richly rewarding challenge. Says Chef Emerson, “I never would
                                       have imagined I could do this in a retail store.”


76

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Eating Fresh: Wegmans Raises the Bar with Sushi

  • 1.
  • 2. get rolling with Wegmans More and more people are eating Vegetable Roll—(Shown above) With avocado, cucumber, carrots, and your sushi these days, and it’s no choice of our Wegmans exclusive short- grain white rice or whole-grain brown rice. surprise. It’s fresh, delicious, Green Vegetable Roll— A very and comes with lots of options American version of sushi, with slivers (not just raw fish). If you’ve ever of asparagus, spinach, and cucumber with creamy garlic mayo. been curious to try, or just want Avocado Summer Spring Roll— to learn more about your favorite Green leaf lettuce, cucumber, avocado, and shredded red cabbage, in a lunch, here’s a little sushi 101. transparent spring roll wrapper. 70
  • 3. California Roll—(Shown above) Wasabi Tuna Roll—(Shown above) Featuring our Wegmans exclusive Ahi tuna with cucumber, scallion, and crabstick (Kanakami), avocado, cucumber, wasabi mayonnaise rolled in nori with and our exclusive short-grain white rice. rice and black sesame seeds. Spicy Lump Crab Roll—One of our Tuna Nigiri—Our sashimi-grade tuna signature items, with cooked crab, spicy has a rich yet delicate flavor. sauce, cucumber, and scallions. Spicy Tuna Roll—Made with our Shrimp Tempura Roll— specialty tuna, spicy sauce, scallions, Tempura-fried shrimp, spicy sauce, and cucumbers, masago (roe), and rice, in a shredded lettuce with tempura krispies nori seaweed wrap. and savory-sweet teriyaki sauce. 71
  • 4. Wasabi wä-sä-be This spicy-hot horseradish mix is served as a condiment with sushi. Taste the Wegmans Difference The first ingredient in our Nigiri ni-ger-e wasabi is natural Japanese Small pillows of sushi wasabi—a major investment rice topped with raw on our part. Others use or cooked seafood. green food color and horseradish powder. Here are some basic sushi terms to get you started, whether you’re trying our made-to-order rolls or something fresh from our display case. - sü-she “seasoned rice” Taste the Wegmans Difference and see why our sushi is so special. Taste the Wegmans Difference Shrimp From a sustainable Canadian fishery, these Northern Pink Kanikama kän-e-kä-mä Shrimp are light and fantastically Also known as crabstick, this popular sweet. You won’t find these on sushi ingredient is imitation crabmeat any other sushi bar. made from whitefish. Taste the Taste the Wegmans Difference Wegmans Difference Spicy Sauce Our recipe is a Wegmans Another exclusive for us, this blend exclusive: All natural, sustainable of sriracha sauce, hot sesame oil, seafood, with no preservatives, chili oil, and mayo takes any sushi MSG, or gluten. item to another level. 72
  • 5. Nori no-re This traditional Japanese wrap is made using specially processed dried seaweed. Taste the Wegmans Difference Veggie and Fruit Wraps If you want to try something different from the traditional nori seaweed wrap, these are great—especially for the beginner sushi eater. We have flavors like BBQ, carrot- ginger, mango-chipotle, and tomato-basil. Taste the Sashimi sä-she-me Just the fish, cooked or uncooked. Wegmans Difference Rice Taste the We’re the only retailer in the US Wegmans Difference using this traditional Tamaki Gold Superfrozen bigeye tuna short-grain rice for sushi. Freshly Our richly flavored all-natural milled for us in California each tuna is higher in fat than month, it’s simply the best. standard yellowfin. It’s quickly frozen to -67°F right on the boat, Taste the so you get what our supplier calls Wegmans Difference “fresher than fresh” taste. Rice Vinegar We worked with our supplier to Taste the create our own vinegar blend—it Wegmans Difference delivers the perfect balance of Salmon sweet, salty, and sour. Our sushi salmon comes from the same British Columbia supplier who provides our Seafood Department’s superb farm-raised salmon. Specially processed to our standards, right near the farm, then shipped straight to us. Pickled ginger This thinly shaved fresh ginger root is a sparkling palate cleanser. Taste the Wegmans Difference We only use smaller ginger root for its superior tenderness. Larger ginger can be woody and tough. Ours is always tender and flavorful. 73
  • 6. Wegmans sushi: Raising the bar By Janet Fletcher Photography by Yasu Nakaoka America’s appetite for sushi is soaring, and who would have thought it? A generation ago, a sushi dinner meant an exotic night out in a restaurant where you probably didn’t quite know the ropes. Today, many youngsters think of sushi as no more foreign than a slice of pizza—an attitude shift reflected in the spiking sushi sales at Wegmans. Assortment of Wegmans Sushi “Sushi has gone from trendy to mainstream, but most retailers weren’t doing anything special with it,” says John Emerson, executive chef in charge of sushi for all Wegmans stores. “We saw this as a tremendous opportunity to offer something no other food market had.” Wegmans opened its first in-store sushi bar in 1996 and has steadily introduced sushi to more stores and hired more experts. But two years ago, with customer interest so strong, management decided it was time to dive deep: to invest in the education, equipment and ingredients necessary to produce “sushi house-quality” fare. Wegmans knew its sushi was good, but could it be great? 74
  • 7. First stop: Japan. With the help of Uoriki, a company that operates more than 40 retail seafood markets in Tokyo, Wegmans sent Emerson and three sushi chefs to Japan for an immersion in the sushi craft. Sounds like fun, but the schedule was grueling. On several days, the agenda started at 4 a.m. with a visit to the city’s famed Tsukiji Fish Market, the largest in the world. At this bustling wholesale emporium, the Uoriki chefs showed the Wegmans team how they select fish from the world’s finest suppliers. The visiting chefs also learned how to fillet a whole giant tuna in the Japanese manner, a ritual that typically involves three people and a set of specialized knives, including one knife more than six feet long. The American group spent afternoons in Uoriki’s retail stores, assisting their employees as they prepared sashimi and sushi for the world’s most discriminating audience. In the evenings, they headed to restaurants to work side-by-side with top Japanese chefs before sitting down to dinner themselves. Once back in the U.S, the real work began. Every element and ingredient of the Wegmans sushi program was scrutinized in light of what the team had learned. New sources for tuna, rice, vinegar, and even wasabi were researched, taste- tested, and selected. “We were using a cold-smoked tuna that almost everybody in the industry used, but we decided that it wasn’t good enough,” says Emerson. Tuna suppliers had devised the smoking process to preserve tuna’s watermelon-red color. The smoke leaves no taste and keeps the flesh from browning, so the tuna appears fresh even when it isn’t. Wegmans chefs wanted a better alternative. Ironically, Emerson and his team determined that the best, freshest tuna is frozen at sea. Because tuna boats can spend many days on the water, “fresh” tuna can be three weeks old by the time it reaches stores, Emerson learned. In contrast, boats equipped with so-called superfreezers can haul the tuna in live, process them humanely, and chill them to -76˚F—the point at which all cell activity stops—within 20 hours. Michael McNicholas, operations and quality control manager for Uoriki, says “You put a perfect tuna in, you get a perfect tuna out.” At great expense, Uoriki installed superfreezers in Wegmans stores to keep the tuna at peak condition. When thawed, “it is as if they just came out of the water,” says Emerson. Although yellowfin tuna is the norm for retail sushi in the U.S., Wegmans insisted on the higher-fat bigeye, the species preferred Wegmans Chef John Emerson for sushi in Japan. (top photo, in red jacket) led his team on 4 a.m. learning trips Uroiki also worked with Wegmans to improve its kanikama to Tokyo’s Tsukiji fish market, (crabstick), a sushi-bar favorite that often includes preservatives followed by daily work with the and MSG. After many tweaks, Chef Emerson got the more city’s best sushi chefs. natural kanikama he wanted, prepared from sustainable seafood without gluten or MSG. 75
  • 8. Avocado Summer Spring Roll Even the wasabi got an upgrade. At many retail sushi counters, the “wasabi” is actually Western horseradish with chili oil and food coloring. Wegmans wanted the real stuff: authentic, all- natural Japanese wasabi, to complement the other top-shelf ingredients. “You can feel the texture of the real wasabi on your tongue,” says McNicholas. “It has a purer flavor, without a stinging burn.” The heightened quality focus means greater expense, but it’s worth the investment. To be able to offer this authentic wasabi, even the packaging had to change: serving it in airtight packets helps retain its vibrant green color. Bringing it home: Perhaps the most surprising lesson the Wegmans team learned Wegmans’ John in Japan concerned rice and the importance of freshness. Who Emerson helps knew that superior sushi requires rice that has been freshly prep seafood milled? Discriminating Japanese chefs consider the rice too old if at one of our it was milled more than six weeks before. popular in-store Sushi Fests. After considerable legwork and help from Uoriki, Wegmans found a California farm growing the short-grain rice used for sushi in Japan. In fact, the Japanese import this rice and have honored it with awards—the only American rice with that distinction. Even better, the farm operates its own mill and was willing to process rice to order for Wegmans. “It was an enormous investment in quality on our part,” says Emerson of this costly rice. “But I don’t know any other operation that’s getting fresh-milled rice, except Morimoto restaurant in Philadelphia.” For Emerson and his sushi team, the learning adventure hasn’t ended. To show off their newfound skills, they hatched the idea of a Sushi Festival, featuring whole fish flown in from Tsukiji Market and whole tuna that they dispatch with great showmanship in front of shoppers. These festivals, which will continue, have drawn enthusiastic crowds, including many expatriates thrilled to find fish they haven’t seen since leaving Japan. For Wegmans chefs, implementing the finest sushi has been a richly rewarding challenge. Says Chef Emerson, “I never would have imagined I could do this in a retail store.” 76