1. COREADVENTURE
NATURAL
YOU ARE HERE
Follow MH’s Jonathan
Thompson to the
Pacific paradise of
Hawaii, witness the
DAWN
world’s most beautiful
sunrise from the peak
of a huge volcano,
then white-knuckle
THRILLER
ride down to the ocean
Photography
Mark Chilvers
TO DO BEFORE YOU DIE
#021 VOLCANO SUNRISE
ONCE IN A LIFETIME
What?
Experience dawn
from the summit
of Haleakala,
When?
September and
October are
perfect, but avoid A
fraction after 5am,
a faint glow appears in
the eastern sky. Minutes
later, the orange half-light
breathes life into to the
“The House of the the November clouds milling in the crater hundreds
Sun”: a giant rains and view- of feet beneath us, making it look
volcano on the blocking clouds. like a giant, steaming cauldron.
Hawaiian island The rest of our This is just the warm-up act. When
of Maui, then winter is good as
mountainbike it’s hot and dry. the sun finally emerges from below
38 miles, and How? the glazed horizon, it’s like something
10,000 vertical Flight Centre from a sci-fi film: vast swathes of
feet through offers seven orange light pierce through cracks
lava fields and nights in Maui, in the thinning layer of clouds. The
rainforest down to with flights and
the Pacific rollers. awe with which our ancient ancestors
accommodation
Why? at the Royal must have regarded the simple rising
Haleakala has Lahaina Resort of the sun remains undiminished
been known as from £999 today. It’s truly inspiring, and worth
great sunrise (0870 499 0040, every minute of lost sleep.
theatre for flightcentre. The Hawaiians have a traditional
centuries. Mark co.uk). The
Twain described Haleakala Sunrise saying, “Kulia i ka nu‘u”, which
the view as “a Cycle Safari costs roughly translated means “strive for
billowy ocean of £65, including the summit.” I did just that in the
wool aflame with transfers and bike early hours of this morning, rising at
the golden and hire (020 8090
the unearthly hour of 1.30am to
purple and crimson 3790 or
splendours of the dosomething make for Maui’s highest peak: the
sun.” The ride different.com). colossal volcano Haleakala which is,
down is awesome For more somewhat disturbingly, still classified
too, taking you information on as active. Measured from its base,
through six Hawaii, contact
microclimates Hawaii Tourism 20,000ft below sea level, it’s the
and back to the (020 7367 0900 third biggest mountain on the planet,
That's a mighty big smile beach in time for or hawaii-tourism. dwarfing even Everest. Over a week
for someone who hasn't a morning surf. co.uk). in Hawaii – the most isolated island
checked his brakes
chain on the earth – I’ve swum in ᮣ
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2. COREADVENTURE
ᮤ perfect azure waters, surfed the
world’s best waves and come to
BUBBLING UNDER other-wordliness of the glowing
crater behind us, create the feeling
conclude that America’s 50th state Two million years old and at least that we’re not in Hawaii, but on the
is well worthy of its “paradise” suffix.
10 eruptions in the last 1000 years, SUMMIT surface of another world. Saddling
here’s what you will – and won’t – The top of Haleakala –
But this experience dwarfs it all. see riding Maui’s giant up, Mike gives a series of last-
aka east Maui volcano – minute instructions, ranging from
HOUSE OF THE RISING SUN towers 3055m (10,023 the deadly serious (“Remember,
Haleakala’s name – meaning “House ft) above sea level. your bike will be travelling at up to
of the Sun” – bears testament to 30mph: you must keep your eyes
the awe-inspiring vantage point it on the road and your wits about
provides as every new day begins. you”) to the ridiculous (“If you want
Long before guidebooks like Lonely to do dream weaving, that’s fine
Planet identified it, or writers like with me – but please, no bunny
Mark Twain travelled here for hopping,”). And finishes with the
inspiration, the Hawaiians realised not-too-encouraging final words:
its spiritual worth. Legend has it “Just remember: the longer you
that on this peak, the demi-god Maui
CRATER admire the scenery, the greater the
The summit looks over a
caught the sun with a magic hook likelihood is of you joining it.” With
massive crater 11.25 km
given to him by his father, and this, he snaps shut his helmet visor
(7 miles) across, 3.2 km
hauled the islands out of the sea. and begins to pedal. Picking up
The red ants in Hawaii are (2 mi) wide and 800 m
Today, geographers and speed, he drops down the steep,
surprisingly advanced (2,600 ft) deep. The
meteorologists alike laud the perilous-looking mountain road and
landscape is an other-
combination of ideal cloud level, quickly disappears below the sea
worldly sub-alpine cinder
unbroken Pacific skies, altitude and top of a 3055m (10,023ft) volcano, of fiery clouds.
the immense natural amphitheatre the bike ride of your life and surfing
CLOUD RING desert. Think lava
Between 1200m and 2400m flows, ash and shrubs.
formed by the crater, which all blend some of the world’s best waves – all BLAZING SADDLES
to make the perfect sunrise. In before breakfast. Which was enough
(4,000 and 8,000ft) an I glance round at my fellow riders,
recent years, mountainbike outfits to drag me from my extremely comfy
almost permanent ring check that my windproof jacket is
have added to the appeal of dawn hotel bed a few hours ago, away from
of cloud crowns Haleakala, zipped to the chin, adjust my thick
at Haleakala with the chance to ride the warm night and into the freezing
engulfing the town of gloves and follow in Mike’s tyre ᮣ
back down its spine at first light, darkness at the summit.
Pukalani, which means RAINFOREST
“hole to heaven”. The environment changes
through lava fields, cloud-forests, As the sun rises, the clouds
dramatically as you descend
woodlands and plains to the roaring beneath us glow in deep pinks
down slopes sculpted by
Pacific beaches below. This raises and searing oranges, parting for
lava flows 700,000 to
the distinct possibility of dawn at the occasional views of dense forests
150,000 years old.
and the ocean far below. Piece by
BELOW SEA-LEVEL Subtropical rainforest and
piece, a spectacular 360 degree
LEGEND HAS IT THAT panorama emerges, with other A massive 97% of the unique native trees such
ON THIS PEAK THE Hawaiian islands rising out of the fiery monster’s 30,000 as ohi’a and kolea take hold
of the lower reaches.
DEMI-GOD MAUI water – the neighbouring Big Island, km3 (7200 mi3) volume
CAUGHT THE SUN then Lana’i, Moloka’i and finally is earlier lava flow
WITH A MAGIC HOOK O’ahu, home to the capital, Honolulu. sat below sea level.
By 5.45am, the entire burning orb
is visible in all its glory, and it’s time LAVA CHAMBER
Dawn breaks over the for us to hit the road. It’s thought Haleakala began
Pacific horizon
its growth about 2 million
DOWNWARDLY MOBILE years ago. It’s now in the third
There are 10 in my group, plus our development stage – known
guide, Mike, a veteran of 1000 as the potshield stage – with
descents. Then there’s a chase van volcanism on the wane.
bringing up the rear. Any breaking of
the safety rules and a rider is “put
in the van”. No questions, no
arguments, and no second chances.
Two-wheeled high-jinx could quite
OCEAN FLOOR
The immense weight of
easily result in an altogether bumpier
the volcanic land mass
trip to the foot of the volcano.
pushes the sea bed down
We’re handed heavy motorcycle Haleakala emerges from the
under the island of Maui. Pacific to climb far beyond
helmets and bright blue windproof
the Hawaiian cloud cover
jumpsuits which, combined with the
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3. COREADVENTURE
THE KIT Starbucks scout
locations for their
Essential gear recommended by Adam
Green, buyer for outdoor experts Blacks latest Martian outlet
SUNDAY BEST
1 Outback jacket £140 Howies
Lightweight layering with merino lining
doubles for warmth at the summit and
moisture-wicking comfort at the bottom.
howies.co.uk
ON YOUR TOES
2 Elios £85 Salomon
Robust enough to explore the volcano on foot,
and lightweight enough for the ride down.
Inner “XCR booties” keep your feet dry.
salomonsports.com
I DON’T KNOW IF IT’S
THE COFFEE OR BEING
ABOVE THE CLOUDS,
BUT I’M EXHILARATED
3 SHADY BUSINESS
Radar M-Frame £150 Oakley
tracks. Within five seconds, there’s turns, adjusting my bodyweight to
Durable, cycling-specific eye protection with
interchangeable lenses, allowing you to no need for the pedals. A euphoric corner as I steal glances at the
adapt quickly to the changing light whoop slips through my chattering splendid surroundings flashing by.
conditions. oakley.com teeth. I don’t know if it’s the five It’s crying out for a powerful, guitar-
mugs of coffee I’ve downed or the based soundtrack – something that
elemental freedom of swooping bird- hasn’t escaped the guy behind me,
like above the clouds in the virgin if the white headphones and
light of early morning, but I’m distorted Sweet Child O’Mine
absolutely exhilarated. The ride is rendition are anything to go by.
just as spectacular as the sunrise. The mountain road pulls us down
We take scores of high-speed hairpin through the changing microclimates
LABOUR OF GLOVE that cling to the sides of this
4 Booster XCR gloves £60 Salomon
X marks the immense rock monster. From the
Grip, warmth and protection from ultra- LOCATION spot for extreme moonscape terrain of the lava fields,
durable insulated Goretex. 20.178ºN exhilaration
salomonsports.com through spicily-scented pine groves
156.254ºW
and on to heady eucalyptus forests.
AREA Lower still, we pass sugarcane fields,
1,470km2 pineapple plantations and sprawling
570mi2 cattle ranches: the spurs of the
r
MAUI
te
Cra
volcano are home to paniolas,
ala
ak
le
Hawaii’s version of cowboys.
Ha
N
TOUCHING BASE TO THE LAP OF THE GODS
5 Technicals Altitude 1/2 Zip £25 W E
Breathable, sweat-wicking fabric enhanced As we drop further from the summit,
with silver to combat odour. Sweet. S the temperature gradually rises and
blacks.co.uk riders shed layers at the sparse ᮣ
SEPTEMBER 2007 MEN’S HEALTH 0O0

4. SLUG STYLE
COREADVENTURE
The gallery stands ᮤ camera stops. After almost two
transfixed to the horizon hours of freewheeling, the ground
despite the bracing cold eventually levels out and we slow,
finally utilising the pedals once more
to carry us past beautiful, sun-
dappled pastures and lush green
fields, punctuated by ancient trees.
It’s not the steamy jungle I had
expected; in fact it actually bears
a surprising resemblance to
England’s rolling countryside, though
for perfection I’d insist on importing
a few country pubs.
We finish the ride in Paia, an old
plantation town with a distinct whiff
of the Wild West. It’s still only 8am
and with the last few hours spent
The human cannonball gets
fitted up for the descent consuming a diet of pure adrenalin,
I am absolutely starving, so I opt for
AFTER TWO HOURS
FREEWHEELING, THE
GROUND LEVELS OUT
AND WE FINALLY
UTILISE THE PEDALS
a gargantuan breakfast over an early
morning surf. The enormity of the
waves help inform my choice. People
may be just stirring in Paia, but for
me it’s already been a long morning.
The perfect waves and searing
sunshine will still be there after
Why, because the Angels' a large plate of bacon and pancakes.
Hawaiian chapter love Maui is like having the
scenic cruises at sunrise? Moon for a back garden It promises to be a beautiful day at
the foot of the House of the Sun. I MH
DAWN TO THRILL
Five of the world’s other great sunrises cherry-picked by Lonely Planet travel editor Tom Hall
1 MOUNT SINAI 2 MACHU PICCHU 3 MASADA
THE TAJ MAHAL
4 (INDIA)
GREAT WALL
5 (CHINA)
ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY DK IMAGES, GETTY, PSC, REX.
(EGYPT) (PERU) (ISRAEL)
It takes 2-4 hours to hike After trekking the arduous An isolated cliff towering The most extravagant Best viewed from the
to the summit of Mount Inca Trail, you’re rewarded above the Dead Sea and monument ever built for Trans-Siberian Railway:
ILLUSTRATION J.PAULLMELEGARI@PVUK.COM
Sinai, all the more difficult with the magical sight of surrounding the Judean love is stunning at any the sky is a deep blue as
in total darkness. The first light touching the desert gives you a view of time, but at first light the the sun comes up against
view over the desert from ancient ruins. The cloud the sun rising above the white marble glows a the hills of the Gobi Desert
the summit where Moses and mists which cloak mountains of Jordan, stunning pink and early and reveals the Great Wall
is said to have received the valley add a mystical magnificently illuminating morning mist from the of China in all its winding
the Ten Commandments is feel. More info: the Dead Sea. Yamuna River gently splendour.
simply spectacular. More journeylatinamerica.co.uk More info: thinkisrael.com shrouds the building. More info: emperor-tours.
info: gotoegypt.org 020 8747 8315 020 7299 1111. More info: tribes.co.uk co.uk
0O0 MEN’S HEALTH SEPTEMBER 2007 www.menshealth.co.uk