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African	American	Women,		
Beauty	and	Marke5ng	
A	research	work	by	J.L.Kraemer
African	American	Women	
An	image	inherited	from	antebellum	5mes:	
•  Commodified:	a	produc5on	factor	which	could	
be	bought,	sold	and	disposed	of.	Expected	to	
be	submissive	and	available.	
Three	nega5ve	stereotypes:		
•  Mammy:	the	unaHrac5ve	nurturing	maid	
•  Jezebel:	the	manipula5ve	all-5me	temptress	
•  Sapphire:	the	dominant	angry	black	woman
African	American	Women	
stereotypes:	Mammy
African	American	
Women	
stereotypes:	
Jezebel
African	American	Women	
stereotypes:	Sapphire	or	the	ABW	
(Angry	Black	Woman)
African	American	Women	
	Stereotypes:	the	Welfare	Queen	
This	 stereotype	 views	 black	 women	 as	 unwilling	 to	 work,	
unwilling	 to	 control	 their	 sex	 drive	 and	 unwilling	 to	 beHer	
themselves,	as	living	comfortably	on	welfare,	bringing	up	a	big	
family	without	a	husband,	with	children	from	different	fathers.	
(Abagond)
African	American	Women	
in	arts,	adver5sing	and	media
African	American	Women	
in	arts,	adver5sing	and	media	
	
Most	oPen:	
Sidekicks,		
objec5fied,	
Sexploited,	
Overexposed,	
or	
Whitewashed	
to	conform	to	
white	ideals,	
…
Iden5ty:	being	an	
African	American	Woman	
•  Black,	American	and	
Woman	
•  Colorism	(shadeism)	and	
mixed	races:	black	or	
blackish?	Mochas	and	
Oreos:	tragic	mulaHos	
•  Self	percep5on:	black	
women	are	thicker	and	
have	a	beHer	body	image,	
a	good	self-esteem:	
posi5ve	against	all	odds
•  Double	jeopardy:	being	a	woman	
in	a	male	dominated	world,	being	
black	in	a	whites	world.	
•  Couple	rela5ons:	strong	woman	
who	doesn’t	need	a	husband	
(educated,	endogamous	and	
black	superwoman	syndrome?)	
•  Racism,	sexism,	feminism	and	
ac5vism:	from	defensive	to	
proac5ve	
•  More	adverse	job	dynamics	and	
living	condi5ons	
African	American	
Women	Social	Issues:	
figh5ng	adversity
African	American	Women	and	Beauty	
•  Beauty	is	the	eye	of	the	
beholder,	then	in	the	mirror	
•  A	social	construct,	
corresponding	to	a	(global)	
culture,	but	with	universal	
constants	
•  Beauty	and	social	place:	
beauty	is	defined	by	the	
place	granted	to	women;	
beauty	defines	social	place	
•  “Flawless”:	perfec5on	
requested	(but	unaHainable)
African	American	Women,	Beauty	
Ideals	and	the	Media	
Ideal	models,	mainstream	compulsory	references:	
•  «	You	Shall	Be	»	young,	thin,	fair	skinned	
•  Barbies,	models,	pageant	contenders,	playboy	
pinups,	cheerleaders,	fitness	addicts…	
•  Perfect…ly	airbrushed	(and	whitewashed	if	dark	
skinned)	
Photoshopping	models	for	fake	
«	perfec5on	»
African	American	Women,	Beauty	
Ideals	and	the	Media	
Whitewashing		
Lupita	Nyong’o
African	American	Women	and	beauty	
pressure	
Groomed	beauty:		
beauty	is	only	skin	
deep,	so	you	must	
use	cosme5cs,	
diet,	exercise	and	
take	care	of	your	
hair	if	you	want	it	
to	be	«	good	hair	»
African	American	Beauty	
The	doll	test	:	
•  Which	one	is	
the	bad	doll?		
•  Which	one	
looks	like	you?
African	American	Beauty	
A	defini5on	of	black	beauty?
•  Black	beauty	and	consequences:		
				High	spending	on	cosme5cs,	hair	care	products	and	
(some5mes	low	cost)	surgery	
	
	
	
	
	
African	American	Beauty
African	American	Women:	
black	success	and	role	models
African	American	Women:	
black	success	and	role	models	
Misty	Copeland,		
not	(just)	a	model:		
a	role	model
African	American	Women:	
black	success	and	role	
models
Marke5ng	beauty	to		
African	American	Women	
•  From	principles	to	strategies:	find	
a	customer’s	need	and	the	
product	to	sa5sfy	it	
•  Marke5ng	beauty	to	women:	
women	already	have	beauty	
needs,	create	(frustra5ons)	
wants,	you	will	have	demand	and	
profit	
•  Knowing	the	market	of	black	
beauty:	know	your	target	so	you	
will	know	what	they	will	buy	and	
how	to	address	them	
•  Marke5ng	black	beauty:	convince	
them	that	you	bring	solu5ons	to	
their	specific	needs	and	issues.	Be	
a	black	company	(or	subsidiary)
African	American	Women,		
Marke5ng	and	Business	
Exploited	or	empowered?	
•  Selling	(through)	some	outdated	
and	inacceptable	image	of	
commodifica5on	and	
sexploita5on	of	black	women?	
•  Selling	self	assump5on,	self	
esteem	and	a	good	body	image?	
•  Selling	some	kind	of	social	
acceptability?	
•  Exploi5ng	their	needs,	complexes	
and	hangups	to	make	a	lot	of	
money	and	some5mes	sell	crap?
African	American	Women,		
Beauty	and	Marke5ng:	Conclusions	
«	 The	 theory	 of	 marke5ng	 is	 solid	 but	 the	
prac5ce	 of	 marke5ng	 leaves	 much	 to	 be	
desired	».	Philip	Kotler
ABSTRACT	
This	research	work	ques5ons	several	main	themes	of	the	American	society	and	way	of	
life;	the	importance	of	beauty	in	social	integra5on,	and	the	impact	of	marke5ng	in	this	
pursuit,	but	more	generally	the	role	and	place	of	African	American	women	in	the	USA	
today,	from	a	mainstream	culture	made	with	and	partly	by	marke5ng	and	the	media,	
to	a	mul5cultural	way	of	life	involving	minori5es	and	ambivalent	in	terms	of	a	high	
social	pressure	to	conform	to	beauty	(among	other)	standards,	but	on	the	other	hand	
stronger	claims	of	self	assump5on	and	demands	of	difference	acceptance.
ABSTRACT	
	
African	 American	 women	 suffer	 from	 an	 undervalued	 image,	 and	 endure	 more	
adverse	condi5ons;	they	have	to	face	the	double	jeopardy	of	being	women	in	a	
male	 dominated	 society	 and	 black	 in	 a	 predominantly	 white	 one.	 They	 do	 not	
correspond	to	all	western	mainstream	beauty	standards	imposed	by	marke5ng	and	
media	in	a	world	running	on	appearances	and	stereotypes.	This	creates	frustra5ons	
and	needs,	and	black	women	are	compelled	to	spend	a	lot	on	beauty	and	hair	care	
products	to	aHain	general	acceptance	as	well	as	a	good	self-esteem.	The	other	way	
around,	we	also	can	consider	that	marke5ng	and	media	may	play	a	posi5ve	role,	by	
offering	the	informa5on	and	products	needed	to	aHain	their	objec5ves	of	social	
integra5on	and	maintaining	their	iden5ty.
Disserta5on	Presented	by	Jean	L.	KRAEMER	
In	par5al	fulfilment	of	the	requirements	of	a	Master's	Degree		
Directed	by	Professor	Alain	GEOFFROY		
	August	2015	
Download	at:	
hHps://www.researchgate.net/publica5on/
281452955_African_American_Women_Beauty_and_Marke5ng

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