Gaia guide2011 for eco travellers

our
corridor

With more than 124,000 square kilometers of mostly rainforest, Sarawak is naturally blessed with numerous waterfalls, many of which have yet
to be explored. Surrender yourself to the cold, fresh, sparkling mountain water and let your worries swiftly wash away. Come live the adventure.
Step onto the longest tree-based walkway in the world and get up-and-close to the pulse of the rainforest. At 25 metres
above ground and 480 metres in length, the Mulu Canopy Walk will provide you an experience unlike any other. From
dense vegetation to colourful owers, swinging monkeys to swooping birds, you’ll discover something new with every step.
Come live the adventure.

3
w w w. s a r a w a k t o u r i s m . c o m

Tourism is a vital industry

FOREWORD especially in underdeveloped
and developing economies.
Excessive and irresponsible
Jose Ramos-Horta
tourism development and
President, Republic of Timor-Leste and
practices, however, can lead to
Nobel Prize Laureate
signiﬁcant stresses on society,
natural landscapes and
wildlife.
The environment really
needs our care. With natural
disasters like tsunamis,
earthquakes, droughts, ﬂoods
and more, we see further
challenge to our environments.
Ecotourism offers one part
of a solution that can help
bring balance. It can serve the
interests of tourists while at
the same time stimulate
prosperity and sustainability.
Ecotourism is set to grow.

In 2004, according to the United Nations are on the move, try walking or cycling instead of
World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO), hiring a car – you’ll see and smell more that way.
ecotourism and nature tourism were growing Trust me, I walk all the time!
three times faster than general tourism. There are a number of ethical eco-resorts and
The UNWTO forecasted at the beginning of eco-lodges in the region that provide comfortable
this year that international tourist arrivals are even luxurious accommodation while ensuring
projected to increase by some 4-5% in 2011 in minimal negative impact on the environment.
spite of economic challenges, political upheavals They are usually designed to maximise alternative
and natural disasters. energy use, promote water conservation, use
So tourism is set to grow. And you can help sensible waste management and employ local
the environment at the same time - instead of communities with fair wages.
being an ordinary tourist, why not be an eco- Staying with these kind of ethical resorts or
tourist? As an eco-tourist or eco-traveller you booking up with eco-tour operators will help to
have the power to make a change. For one, you support their businesses while ensuring a
and your family can bask in a local cultural sustainable future for all. I would also like to
experience at a charming but new territory, congratulate the Gaia Discovery editorial team for
explore the pristine countryside, meet genuinely producing the inaugural Gaia Guide, which is a
endearing local people, explore the attractions step in the right direction for preserving Asian
and sample local delicacies. beauty, heritage, culture, natural environments
Agro-tourism is another expanding and communities.
opportunity. Farmers generate additional income
by hosting visitors around their family-owned Jose Ramos-Horta, President, Republic of Timor-
croplands, educating how vegetables and fruit Leste; Nobel Prize Laureate and Honorary Advisor, Gaia
grow, and promoting farm products. When you Discovery.

3

CONTENTS

The only handy
guide to responsible
tourism, culture and
heritage in Asia.

8 TAKE ACTION 12 ETHICAL 16 ADVENTURE
SIKKIM STUDIES takes a DAVE WILLIAMS left behind TIMOR LESTE is one of the
trip to the foothills of the corporate climbing to take truly unspoiled places to go
Himalayas with some up a life’s dream of in SE Asia. But take some
Singapore Scouts. kayaking in Thailand. soap and mossie repellent!

4

CONTENTS
20 WHAT’S ON
GAIA DISCOVERY’s guide
to the most interesting,
challenging and eco-
friendly events and
happenings across the
region. Check them out.

28 SCUBA DIVING
BALI and PUERTO GALERA
both offer some of the
coolest places to take the
plunge. Not just stunning in
terms of variety, they offer
an astonishing number of
undersea ﬂora and fauna

22 DO’S AND DONT’S varieties.

TRAVELLING somewhere
special? Then treat it that
way - and do the right thing
for yourself, the planet, and
the people.

24 DESTINATION SARAWAK
The KELABIT HIGHLANDS
in Sarawak offer some
stunning and totally original 32 CULTURE
places to stay. Get right
back to nature with a long KADAYAWAN in the
weekend stay in a Philippines holds a regular
longhouse. festival of indigenous
people that will make your
eyes pop and ears ring with
joy. Then there’s the food... 38 RESORT
THE FARM and KRI ECO
34 EXPERT RESORT both promise you
will come away feeling
HITESH MEHTA designs,
refreshed, revitalized and
builds and photographs
ready to do your bit for the
some of the ﬁnest eco-
environment. The Farm
lodges on the planet. Find
shows how vegan living
out how he started, and
can be a delectable choice.
what drives him.

5

PUBLISHER MUSES
Ecotourism dawned in the environment and improves the
late 1970s; by early 1990s it was well-being of local
the fastest growing sector of the people." (TIES, 1990)
tourism industry, expanding Ecotourism goes beyond
globally between 20% to 34 % nature-based tourism in
per year. The prospects for benefiting local folks and
ecotourism are huge. Travellers, destinations environmentally,
especially from Europe, are socially, culturally and
seeking to reduce their carbon economically.
footprint while submersing A well-respected eco-
themselves into local activities, architect, Hitesh Mehta
hence adding – not subtracting (featured here with me) has
– value to communities visited. spelt out this framework
In thinking green, tourism clearly in the International The Gaia Guide is published by
and hospitality operators such Ecolodge Guidelines. To help Gaia Discovery in Singapore
for travellers worldwide.
as travel agents, transportation portray the concept of
companies, hotels, resorts, ecolodges better, he has It is printed three times a year,
community-based homestays, authored, photographed and distributed for free at high traffic
camps and convention centers illustrated the amazing environmental seminars, tourism
are starting to embrace social Authentic Ecolodges “chai” events, travel operators, hotels,
and economic responsibility. table book. Read about resorts, dive centers, sports centers,
In putting together The Gaia Mehta, who also sits on our restaurants and more in Asian cities.
Guide, we strive to feature such panel of advisers, on page 32. The Gaia Guide is also posted on the
responsible operators from Asia. The Gaia Guide points web! Find it on Gaia Discovery as
The criteria used in selecting travellers towards responsible well as partnering websites, for free
these are the same used by The tourism. We hope you’ll enjoy access and download.
International Ecotourism the launch issue and look THE TEAM
Society. It defines ecotourism forward to your feedback! Jeremy Torr, Editor
as: "Responsible travel to Mallika Naguran, Publisher
natural areas that conserves the Mallika
Contributors: Gunver Bennekou, Kayti
Denham, Henrylito D.Tacio, Anusha K, James

SUBSCRIBE TO THE GAIA
Teo, Simon Pridmore

Photographers: Adam Butler, Daniel
Groshong, Imran Ahmad, Scotty Graham

GUIDE & GAIA DISCOVERY TO Printed by Percetakan Imprint in West
Malaysia on FSC paper and soy ink

ENJOY STORIES AND TREATS... Gaia Discovery
15 Upper Boon Keng Road #15-1067

GAIADISCOVERY.COM Singapore 380015
Tel: +65 9663 7289
mal @gaiadiscovery.com

6

Take
Action
SIKKIM STUDIES
by James Teo
How scouts from Singapore
travelled halfway round the world
to help build a new
environmentally-sensitive
classroom for remote village
children in India

FLOODS ARE in the news metres of elevation. All of which
globally right now, but in the makes getting to school very
Indian Himalayan province of difﬁcult for students, many of
Sikkim, the clouds dump about whom live in isolated
300 centimetres every year communities on remote hillsides.
without fail. That’s a lot of water, Often, they simply can’t go.
and it regularly demolishes the
roads. In the dry season, the “We wanted our children to
roads barely cling to steep get a good education year
hillsides. During the monsoon, round,” says Santabir Limboo, a
they usually lose the battle and village elder in Hee Bermiok, one
end up in the bottom of the of the tiny villages perched high
valley. In fact getting there from above the Rangit River in West
the nearest airport (Bagdogra) Sikkim. Limboo and the village
takes about ﬁve hours on a elders solved the problem by
good day. setting up their own private
school in a rented village house
Sikkim Students – and the local children came in
Singapore scouts forgot droves.
their PSPs and bought- More, if the road has been
in hawker food for a swept away by an avalanche or
landslide. Vehicles only travel at But the new school – the
week and a half while
an average speed of 25kph but Pole Star English School - was
they got down to the
that’s understandable given that so successful that it led to
serious task of building
the road climbs and swoops another problem: lack of space.
the new classroom from
There simply wasn’t enough
scratch. Tough! around countless hairpin bends,
crossing through thousands of room for so many keen seekers

8

of knowledge. The villagers had the land,
but didn’t have the manpower or the money
to add any more classrooms for would-be HELP AT HAND
students. Coincidentally, some Singapore
Rover Scouts were looking for a challenge
with a difference. One of them, Jeremy
Chan, worked for award-winning Akitek
Tenggara and had experience building
environmentally sensitive structures. He
wanted to do something green, but useful.

As chance would have it, Jayne Low,
Singapore-based regional marketing
manager for Jet Airways had just started
Limboo and the other
looking at Sikkim as a destination. Low
village elders spoke to
heard through the grapevine about Hee
local tourism activist and
Bermiok’s school - and the scouts - and
green missionary
realised she held the key to the problem. “I Supratim Raj Basu
spoke to my boss and told him I thought (below), who said a few
we should help put these people together,” classrooms would solve
she recalls, “and he said yes!” their problem. Basu
founded innovative Help
Some Bamboo Best Tourism, dedicated to
pupils travel Back in Singapore, Chan started improving the life of
hours to get to drawing up plans for the extension. First remote villagers, but not
school at the expense of their
culture.

9

they would need bamboo poles was that or we stopped work.”

TRUE CALLING to support the roof, strong
enough to cope with excitable
The long-awaited classrooms
slowly emerged.
“We established this schoolchildren. The poles had to
school here so that the
be soaked in mountain streams Nifty Fifty
children could learn, but
for a few weeks to leach out the The job was almost done;
as important, learn in
weak, pithy cores. The roofs the teachers gave it the once-
English too,” says Kabita
would be sailcloth or corrugated over. The extension was built,
Chhetri, a senior teacher
iron, brought in on trucks when ready to provide room for
at Pole Star English
School in Hee Bermiok. the roads were good. another 50 or so students to
“In today’s world, the Crossbeams to help stabilise the learn all year round. The
children need English to structure would be made of local celebrations could begin.
gain skills.” Students timber, screwed and lashed “We now get students as
have gone to be doctors, together. After arriving in Sikkim young as four,” says Limboo
engineers and more. thanks to Jet Airways and Help proudly. “Their parents are
Tourism, the scouts hammered, farmers, delivery workers,
sawed, drilled and nailed for carpenters and labourers.”
nine days.
And the pupils keep coming.
“We had to work with what The Pole Star teachers don’t do
we had,” remembers Chan. it for the money; they earn a lot
“When the electric drill stopped less than their government
working, we used a hand drill. It school counterparts. “We do it

10

with passion,” says teacher “Even some of the teachers

ON THE EDGE
Kabita Chhetri, who has an at government schools send
MBA as well as a second their children here!” smiles
teaching degree. Limboo.

The ﬁnished extension was Thanks to the new
solid enough to use all year classrooms, when the rains
round, and was voted a big come, the students can now
success. Students have gone carry on learning. Although
on from this remote community none of them are actually brave
school to be doctors, engin- enough to say if year-round
eers and other professionals, homework is a change for the
so they must be doing it right. better. 

Sikkim has
amazingly colourful About as far north as
temples and you can get (see map)
monasteries - and Sikkim sits wedged
lush ﬁelds between China, Nepal,
Bhutan and West
Bengal. It is reached by
some very rough roads
across a narrow 40km
wide sliver of land.

11

Ethical

A MAN FOR
Dave Williams was a
successful businessman in
the United States when he
took a trip to Thailand, 19
years ago. His visit made

ALL REASONS
him realise there was much
more to life than climbing
the corporate ladder.

by Jeremy Torr

“I admit it, I am a bit choosy about who I take ...”

DAVE WILLIAMS is a lifelong naturalist and around the south-west of Thailand, and secondly
animal lover, dedicated paddler, serious beard- - making sure that what he does with his Paddle
wearer and very genuine bloke. Asia company offers minimal damage to our
precious world.
He wasn’t always that way. Back in the early
nineties he was a model executive in an Shanks’s Pony
established American company. “I was in middle “Just being here impacts the environment,”
management, living the American dream. I was Williams admits. But he makes sure whatever he
working for my paycheck every week, and the is offering, by water or land, involves the
future was all planned out,” he absolute minimum of motor transport.
remembers. Then he took a trip to Just Customers walk, hike, canoe or
Thailand, to check out the paddling and being here mountainbike to wherever they are going
birdwatching scenes and it all changed. impacts the to, unless it is absolutely necessary to
environment use a bus or plane.
“Now, I am following what I realised is
my dream,” he says. “It’s no longer about His life is now completely dedicated to
the money.” What it is about is two things, says offering holidays to regular and repeat customers,
Williams: offering seriously well organized and and to putting together qualifying courses for
rewarding canoe, rock-climbing and trekking trips outward-bound style award programmes for

12

schools and groups from all over destinations but still use as
Asia. Williams admits he is a bit
choosy about who he takes. He
many cars and buses,” he says.
OFF TRACK
says he doesn’t want anybody Williams says this makes it
along who doesn’t have the harder work for the really green,
same values as he and his team little guys like him but he carries
of guides. on doing the same thing anyway.
“We also do bird-watching and
No Sourpusses! long-trail hiking, and for those
As he succinctly puts it: “one you really have to know your
sourpuss can spoil it for all the country. It’s so easy to get lost
others.” This approach has that you have to go back again
ensured that for the last 12 years and again to research the really
he has built up his business green routes that don’t do any
steadily, and now has a staff of damage,” he says. “One of the
seven offering his special brand trips we offer is a 340km coast
of eco-tourism. Despite the fact to coast walk across Thailand.
he doesn’t really like the phrase. You won’t ﬁnd that on any other
tour operator’s itineraries!”
“Everybody today seems to
be touting themselves as an eco Old Hand
tourism company. But the big Williams started paddling in
guys just do the same as before, 1978, and has plenty of
internal combustion assistance experience in both very serious
included. They just visit “green” whitewater and sea kayaking.
He has paddled most of the

Corporate
climber? More
like eco
executive!

Dave, his chief guide
Nipon and wife Moo are
the key people in Paddle
Asia. They have built up
a formiddable reputation
for eco friendly tours
that take visitors where
they want to go -
without damaging or
impacting the locale or
the people there.

13

dangerous rivers in Colorado, mountainbike trails,
and almost 370 kilometres of the rock climbing and
Grand Canyon. Closer to home, archery. “I just like
he has paddled extensively in what this area has to
Thailand and in the rivers of offer,” he says. A
Laos. lifelong student of
natural history,
His current right hand man ornithology, biology,
(and woman) are guide Nipon botany,
and wife Moo, who both help in paleontology, and
the business. “Nipon is a great Eastern Philosophy,
guy and so good with the wide he loves the
range of people and skills we outdoors – but
get,” says Williams. Nipon, from realises how fragile it
Phatthalung province, has a is.
degree in tourism from
Ratchapat University and the “We at Paddle
typical warm Thai approach to Asia are small by
people. design,” he says.
“This minimises our
Multi-skilled impact, and also has
“Nipon is an intelligent and the advantage we
knowledgeable guide who can adjust and he laughs. But now, he says, he
dramatically improved our bounce back if customer is doing it as right as he can,
understanding of the culture, numbers change.” In his early with the environment ﬁrmly in
wildlife and locations,” enthused days in Thailand, Williams mind at all times.
one customer. worked for a few other outdoor
tour operators, and says that “I do it this way because it’s
He still keeps up with the was a valuable learning my life,” he adds. “I am following
other sports he offers visitors in experience. “I learned how not my dream, so we can all feel
the area, riding hardcore to do it, back in the early days,” good about what we do.” 

14

Paddle Asia Cont.

Bikes are the best way to explore the country,
especially in places like Sukhothai in Thailand

15

Adventure

TIMOR TIMES

Travelling to less developed places is something
great to talk about when you get home - and a
chance to help people who need your smiles
as much as your dollars.
2012: Ten
years of
By Jeremy Torr
independence
FLYING TO Timor Leste is passport to enter the
easy. Just jump on a plane at visa details - by hand -
Changi. It’s a four-hour ﬂight to into a great big book. No
Nicolau Lobato Airport - but computers here; no electronic
when you arrive it’s like you tickets or passport scanners.
have been traveling in time. Timor Leste is still a very
under-developed country, and
“Bon dia’” says the ofﬁcial, this is where much of its charm
smiling broadly. He takes my lies. Admittedly Dili, the

16

capital, has its share of street Once through the villages, swam. The national animal is not
chaos with hooting mopeds, the cliffs at Ponta Hatolana Rein the crocodile for nothing.
food vendors, the occasional are simply stunning. The road
internet café, and chunky 4WDs. clings to the edge some 250 Next day we took a trip into
metres above tiny white sand the hills, to a tiny village near
But venture just a few beaches as the cliffs, covered in Letefoho where a new school
kilometers up or down the coast green tropical plants and huge was being opened. The road
to Manatuto or Liquica, or head white gum trees, plunge into the there can be described as a
inland up into the mountains pure blue sea. The rock faces challenge, you definitely need a
towards Maubisse and the glowed red, black, and white 4WD. Winding up across the
change is dramatic. As Jose with marble in the afternoon sun, mountains we had wonderful
Ramos-Horta, president of fit for a scene from the next views out over Dili to the sea,
Timor Leste, said to us, “the James Bond movie – but without and glimpses of the scores of
Portuguese were here for 400 a soul in sight. tiny hamlets that seem to hide
years, and they did basically behind every curve of the road
nothing for us.” Head for the Hills and hilltop.
We passed by Dollar Beach
Land that Time Forgot (it’s called that because the Apparently the local people
All they left when they went locals used to charge a dollar to shunned the more open land
was their language, and a deep drive onto it) and stopped in the nearer the sea and preferred to
abiding Roman Catholic faith.
No scenery-spoiling motorways,
no river dams, no railways,
almost nothing apart from a few
colonial buildings, an odd
church or two and the remains
of an old fort. All of which left
the countryside as untouched by
modern progress as anywhere in
the world. “We are a poor
country, but we are proud of it
and want to welcome people
here,” added the president.

“This,” said our guide the
next day, “is some of the most
stunning scenery.” He was right. Timorese village women wait for a festival to begin
We had driven about forty
minutes out of Dili, east along tiny hamlet of Berhedan for local live in the hills where it was
the coast road past the huge honey, sold in old rum bottles harder for marauding tribes to
statue of Christ the Redeemer yet tasting of native mount surprise attacks.
on its crag at Ponta Fatossidi flowers. Every place we Whatever the reason,
(Cape Fatucama), through tiny passed people waved Everywhere we this fondness for hill-
thatched-hut villages with and smiled – but they went, people dwelling has
running kids and groups of did caution us to be waved and preserved a unique
fishermen sitting playing cards. careful where we smiled way of life. Tiny

17

fenced plots of cassava and no erosion of the natural
corn sit next to rushing streams landscape.

EAST LAND and thatched storage barns.
Dogs and chickens wander With none of the modern
about on single-file paths fixtures we’re used to, the
between rice patches. Men and country is pristine in the purest
women in locally woven turbans sense of the word. Sure there is
herd the local cow between dirt, but it is pristine dirt. There
smoky huts. All this makes are leftovers from the
trekking and walking in this area Portuguese colonial era that hint
excellent, but check your at more genteel times, but the
accommodation options first – majority of towns are still
hotels are thin on the ground. unspoilt, with local markets and
a variety of clothing and
Let the Dancing Begin headgear that will astound.
Once the ceremony to open
the school started, the local Tribal elders with turbans
orchestra – a group of older and silver decorations mingle
women with gongs – led the with baseball-capped
festivities. They were joined by youngsters in trousers. All seem
village elders in ornate feather to get along, and if there is a
and silver headdresses – and chance for a get-together and
some very cool shades. celebration, everyone
Everybody joined in, laughing, congregates to stomp out the
dancing, stamping to the music, traditional dances to the sound
eating pig livers, drinking strong of a woman-driven gong
In this new nation in the local coffee and relishing super- orchestra.
Far East, there are no sweet milky puddings.
motorways, no river Orchestra Tedia
dams, no railways, The celebrations went on for “I have to admit the noise
almost nothing apart hours – but there was so much gets a bit tedious after a while,”
from a few colonial of interest it was never tiring. A says one local resident. “I’d love
buildings, an odd church Singaporean policeman, on local them to change the tune a bit.”
and the remains of a
duty with the UN, stated the Nevertheless, to a visitor the
fort. Which means the
obvious: “It is very different from sounds are mesmeric, and the
countryside is as
Singapore.” About as different sight of a team of senior women
untouched by modern
as you can get. beating their brass gongs in
progress as anywhere.
If you want to see something uncannily dissonant time is
even more different, take a day highly memorable. Most
off, head up or down the coast celebrations are accompanied
or follow the twisting trails into by lots of local coffee, aromatic
the hills, where Timor offers an and very mellow; and food can
unparalleled visitor experience. be anything from spicy mixes of
The same history that has given cabbage, spinach and onions, to
locals a very basic way of life a slab of pig’s liver slathered in
means there has been virtually rich gravy. Yummy.

18

Tribal elders
with
turbans and
silver
decorations
mingle with
baseball-
capped
youngsters.
All seem to
get along.
At special
occasions,
everyone
gathers to
stomp out
traditional
dances.

There are over 240 species of bird, some 30 of which are unique to Timor.
And for dessert, sweet mango and coconut
milk pudding with a wild banana or two to top it
off. Perfect.
If immersing yourself in local life doesn’t grab
you, then take a hike into the remote areas.
Nature spotters will drool over wildlife like the
reticulated python (up to 8 metres long) and over
240 species of bird, some 30 of which are unique
to Timor. It sure beats looking at casinos.

Safe as Houses
Before we left Timor Leste, I thanked our guide
and asked him what he wanted me to tell our
readers. “Please tell your readers Timor Leste is a
safe and friendly place to visit,” said the
president. He didn’t need to say that: It is both
those and more.
Timor Leste is a stunning destination, with a
new experience around almost every corner, a
friendliness that borders on the naive and unspoilt
places to discover in the lowlands, the uplands
and the hard-to-get-to places in between. And
thanks to all those old unloved Portuguese roads, Delicious coffee comes right off the bushes in the
there are plenty of those still.  highlands of Timor Leste

19

WHAT’S ON
Welcome to the best wheel chair and artificial limb
contestants to show their might
Anapurna 100
and greenest guide among the ancient ruins.
1 Jan, 6 Apr
Nepal
around for where to villagefocus.org/bike

go and what to do This is Nepal’s original ultra-

over the next few Gaia Reef trail race with 50km, 70km and
100km courses. For the fit and
months. Restoration adventurous, this competition
10-15 Dec takes runners through moun-
Gili Trawangan, tains, forests and villages. Entry
Indonesia fees go towards rewarding
Angkor Wat Bike
Nepali runners. If you think
Race & Ride the chances of you waking
3 Dec up on New Year’s Day with a
Siem Reap, Cambodia hangover are high, then plan
for the Annapurna Mandala
What better way to relive the Trail on 6 April instead. There,
ancient Angkor civilization days 12 stages will see runners
than to pedal a bike round the passing through Tibet, by the
ruins? For leisure or ancient walled city of Lo
competition, bikers can soak in Mantling and the peaks of the
Siem Reap’s iconic backdrops mighty Himalayas.
with jungles, rice paddies, anapurna100.com
buffaloes and elephants. Village
Focus’ projects that help local
Cambodians stand to gain from
Sinulog
your sweat! 14,15 Jan
If that’s not enough, the Cebu, Philippines
popular Angkor Wat Build new coral reefs! Using
the Biorock process, this Why not join in the month-
International Half Marathon
restorative act will provide long fiesta celebration in Cebu in
takes place the next day (4
December) in front of Angkor shelter for fish, promote marine
Wat and includes segments for biodiversity and help prevent
beach erosion around Gili
Trawangan, an idyllic island of
Indonesia. Organiser Gaia
Discovery welcomes scuba
divers who are keen on giving
nature a helping hand.
gaiadiscovery.com
honour of Santo Nino or the
Baby Christ with religious

20

WHAT’S ON!
processions reaching a high misfortunes before ushering in a
point in the third week on a
Spirit Festival sparkling clean new year.
Saturday followed by a grand
28 Mar -1 Apr Songkran is celebrated with
street parade the next day? Ubud, Bali temple rituals throughout
Bask in the revelry of the festive Thailand (where you can
dances and ﬁreworks. The give alms) and full
Sinulog buzz is not to be processions in Chiang Mai.
missed so head on to Cebu! Head to Kao San Road or
sinulog.ph Silom for fun and feuds with
water guns!
thailandlife.com
Thaipusam
7 Feb
Singapore, Malaysia, Rock and Roots
India, Sri Lanka, An uplifting festival of yoga, 30, 31 Mar
Maldives dance and music designed for
Singapore
social and ecological harmony.
Watch the traditional kavadi In its sixth year, the Bali Spirit In its third year, Timbre is about
attam dance performed by Festival will see more inter- to surprise fans with more
national acts like Kissmet music greats to echo previous
from India and the UK yearsʼ luminaries: Bob Dylan,
(pictured here) to add to John Legend, Bouna Vista
sacred world music from Social Club... surf away for
many cultures. 2012 artiste announcement
release!
balispiritfestival.com
rockandroots.com.sg

Songkran And donʼt forget - if you
Apr 13 -15 have an event, let us know:
mal@gaiadiscovery.com
Thailand
Hindu devotees during their You can
ceremonial worship complete have it wet and
with heavy kavadis or yokes that wild, but
bear their burdens. These can traditionally
be in the form of milk pots or during the
chariots with ﬂesh-piercing Thai’s new year,
skewers. The range of body the act of water
piercing will astonish you and pouring on the
offers the chance to capture head is gentle
some unrepeatable photos. and pure to
yoursingapore.com wash away all

21

DO’S & DONT’S
Here’s how we can get the best out of our selﬁsh sojourns without
causing disturbance and disruption to the environment. And
maximizing opportunities to enrich other people’s lives.
By Mallika Naguran

Be an
Goodie Baggie
eco
Thought about packing just about enough or less
rather than squeezing every possible thing in your traveller!
bulging luggage? Consider buying those extra clothes
needed, especially tees and toiletries at the travel destination
itself. Most places have clothes especially tees; Bali and Thailand in
particular have wonderful soaps. Your tourist dollar boosts local trade and
you get new outﬁts.
However, pack a few used clothes, shoes or trinkets that are still nifty
but no longer your favourite. You can give them away to the poor or leave
them behind in the hotel rooms for the staff to use or distribute. Take some
gifts with you to give away random by consulting travel agents or browsing
the web for advice.
Ask your friends to help contribute too. Sometimes, little things count.
Here’s a useful list to remember: Burma – ballpoint pens (biro) for school
kids. They need these to go to school. India – clothes for children, men

22

and women. Indonesia - clothes for children, If you intend to give, email or snail mail the
men and women. Vietnam – children’s picture subject a photo printout, that is wonderful.
books, battery-operated CD players. Thailand – Remember to keep your promise though to
kids picture books, portable CD players. prevent them from being sorely disappointed or
Cambodia - mosquito nets, books. worse, disillusioned with trigger-happy and self-
seeking tourists.

Trippy trappy
Shoppa Shocka
Incorporate a visit
to a village or a Bargain hunters listen up. There are just two
words for you - stop it! I hear stories of rich
home, better still,
arrange for tourists boasting of the huge reductions gotten
homestays as part of by tough bargaining in poor countries.
your getaway. You Remember, haggling for a modest discount is
learn so much more fine but
hammering down
of the local culture by
mingling with real Dongria Khondh to cost price is
community, India indecent. That
people, not just trained
tourist operators. extra profit margin
Pick up a few local made through
your purchase
phrases, write them down and build them up
along the way with your own dedicated may just go a long
language notebook. Also don’t hesitate to teach way to putting one
the residents some words and phrases of your decent food on
own lingo, helping to strengthen their language the table a day or
providing warm Fabrics from Kok
skills and confidence in dealing with tourists.
shoes on kids in blistery Kong Village, Thailand
Write them down and give them the paper of
words and phrases for them to keep. winter – things we often
Take time to stop and chat with people on take for granted.
the street. Share a smile, a joke or invite them
for a cuppa with you. No reason to behave like a
Don’t Do Endangered
tourist just because you are one!
When visiting fairs, markets, street shops,
make it a point to buy something for yourself or
Photo motto your loved one. It’s great to have a souvenir and
Ask permission before you snap a shot of at the same time, you stimulate more local
people or property, and thank people after. If trade. Consider getting Christmas or birthday
you have a digital camera, show them the shot gifts for others. Buying in advance is cheaper
taken. Don’t be surprised if they are amazed by anyway – you won’t burn a huge hole in your
the image of themselves as they may not have pocket come December with mass purchases in
come across a digital camera before. super fancy malls. Better still, you will receive
In some cities (like Hanoi and ethnic minority compliments on your unique and exotic finds.
villages in Vietnam), you may be asked for And remember, always refrain from purchasing
money in exchange of photo taken and this you products made from prohibited, endangered or
may find out, rather unpleasantly, even after near extinct flora and fauna. Say no and if
seeking consent. No harm tipping or buying the possible, explain the reason to the tradesman,
local handicraft to show your gratitude – it’s who is probably unaware of the environmental
definitely quid pro quo! threats caused by his actions. 

23

BORNEO
Destination

Kelabit Highlands in Bario bring you
closer to nature and a bunch of rather
interesting folks.
Gunver Bennekou reports.

Stephen from Sarawak and road or river transportation, so it
Danish Tine once had a dream. is very peaceful. Around 1000
Now that dream has been people live there, mainly Kelabits
Stephen and Tine
fulﬁlled with the establishment of and Penans. The village is rather
Jungle Blues Dream in the Ulung widespread as there are paddy
Palang longhouse in Bario, a ﬁelds in between the longhouses
village in the Kelabit Highlands and surrounded by forests.
of northeast Sarawak, close to Trekking into the woods brings
the Kalimantan border. The Bario on delightful discoveries and so
plateau is remote and without does walking to remote villages.

Maecenas aliquam maecenas
Sociis mauris in integer, Idyllic
a dolor netus non dui settings
aliquet, sagittis felis
The Penans are a
sodales, dolor sociis
around Bario
charming loteu libero
mauris, vel that make longhouse
Borneo even more
cras. Interdum at. Eget
habitasse elementum est,
ipsum endearing.class.
purus pede

24

While roaming, you might bump into old the vegetables are picked from the forest. My
Kelabits with elongated ears, or come across favorite dishes are wild ginger flower salad and
Penans carrying wild sago from the forests. The soup made of wild spinach – very delicious.
village also has a touch of
modernisation - an internet café and
some cars, although there are no
Fresh Meat
LOCAL FOOD The meat is local too, either from
paved roads.
COOKED ON AN OPEN FIRE. the forest such as wild boar or
The homestay is situated in VERY LITTLE USE OF FOSSIL deer, which can be roasted or
a new Kelabit longhouse made FUEL. AND A GREAT smoked. The fishpond delivers
of Agathis, a local wood, while fresh fish. The pineapples from
CONNECTION WITH THE
poles are made of ironwood, Bario are particularly sweet and
LOCAL COMMUNITY
transported from Miri or Marudi. the local fried bananas are
The longhouse is situated on top of mouthwatering. The food is usually
a hill so from the balcony you can enjoy a prepared at the open fireplace in the
wide-angled view of the beautiful paddy fields longhouse. A sape, a local musical instrument,
and surrounding mountains. Moreover, you get sits in the front room, ready for action. Your host
the most wonderful food in this place. The main Stephen is a fine sape player, and ready to
dish is rice, which is a bonus as the fragrant serenade his guests. The walls in the rooms are
Bario rice is famous throughout Sarawak. decorated with local material and Stephens’ own
Tine and Stephen have their own paddy fields artwork too. The art gallery doubles as the living
which mean the rice can’t get any fresher. Even room and exhibition area.

25

The neighbour to Tine and large carbon footprint is your trip
Stephen’s little slice of heaven to Bario. The only possible way
is the headman of the to go there is with a flight from
longhouse. On a fine evening, Miri.
there is a possibility you’ll be in
very good company with all Twice a day MASwings
these artistic and musically- sends a little Twin Otter plane
inclined neighbours! over the highlands to Bario
where a marvelous sight of the
Dream Time rainforest awaits until your
Staying in Jungle Blues descent into Kelabit’s charming
Dream is really eco-travelling at highland enclave. 
its best. It offers a house made
mostly of local
materials. Local
food cooked on
open fire. Very little
use of fossil fuel.
Add to that a
great connection
with the local
community and
culture. All the
boxes are ticked
for you. The only

This is eco-
travelling at its
very best

Simple life, music played
from the traditional
sape, a stroll along
rolling padi fields... A
Bario longhouse stay
can offer all these and
more, leaving lasting
impressions on you and
your companions well
after you leave.

26

SOME THINGS NEVER GO
OUT OF FASHION AT
KELABIT HIGHLANDS

27

BENEATH
Indonesia’s seas. At first, you
dip below the flat surface and it
seems that there is nothing
there. But then a trained eye
spots what looks like a sprig of
weed and, on closer inspection,
the weed turns out to be a very
rare and exotic Ambon Scorpion

BALI
fish, with its partner lying
perfectly still only centimetres
Scuba away. As you approach they
Diving both start to weave and bob in
unison, mimicking the way
seaweed moves on a tide.

Small things matter A few metres further on, you
lift a patch of weed to reveal a
Text & photos by Simon Pridmore
baby hairy frogfish hiding
beneath and a small white mark
Puri Jati diving in Bali is
on the sand turns out to be
what is commonly termed
another baby frogfish relying on
“muck.” The calm bay,
its unusual colouring rather than
particularly around the mouth of
camouflage to protect it.
a small river, is a haven for
Every coconut shell and
octopuses and a nursery for the
discarded bottle or jars turn out
more unusual creatures found in
to be the residence of an

Creatures of the sea
need somewhere to hide
from the big, bad and
ugly. Sometimes, these
hideouts can be rather
surprising. Like a rusty A nursery for
can, glass bottle or a toy unusual
car! Some trash creatures
inevitably becomes part
of the local habitat.

28

octopus and they can often be flying gurnards and many kinds
seen scuttling across the sand of file fish and if you look closely
clutching construction materials you can find ghost pipefish
to improve their homes. hanging in the fronds of ferns
Collapsible juice bags make that decorate the slope like puffy
useful front doors, it seems. white clouds. These are the
When not busy collecting, they home too of unusual yellow,
bury themselves and their white and black nudibranchs.

Muck diving... What a wonderland of sorts!

homes deep in the sand. A pile
of debris in a pit is a common Curb your environmental
indicator that here is the lair of instincts and resist the urge to
an octopus. pick up any trash you see lying
on the bottom. It is not only the
The site slopes out gently octopus that needs to find
along way from the shore until creative housing solutions on
you reach a steeper section, the featureless sand. A sheet of
which takes you down to 30 m plastic provides protection from
(100 ft) and more. The slope is predators and a tin can makes a
good for spotting fingered romantic pied-a-terre for a pair
dragonets, inimicus devilfish, of blennies! 

Leave it all behind...
PADI and SSI Dive Centre    fun dives
beautiful bungalows    families welcome
beach volleyball court    no cars or motorbikes
professional and friendly staff

29

PUERTO
Photographers - pack
wide-angle lens when
on a trip to Puerto
Galera. With visibility

GALERA
stretching to 50m on
good days and swaying
sea fans and colourful
soft corals, getting a
good panoramic shot
isn’t too hard.

Utterly Amazing Galera
By Mallika Naguran

Puerto Galera is just one of the 7,107 islands drenched
in the sun that offer top scuba diving and land-based
attractions. There are about 3,000 marine species alone in this
Southern spot, but don’t hold your breath for the big stuff.
Sweetlips, humphead parrots, barracudas, jacks and puffers
can be found, along with healthy coral cover.

Puerto Galera, a reservation area under the
Open
Man and Biosphere Program of the UNESCO, is
water to tech
located in the Mindoro province of the
diving in Puerto
Philippines, about a three-hour drive south from
Galera
Manila City to Batangas Port, and an hour’s boat
ride from there to El Galleon jetty. Asia Divers is a
PADI 5 Star Career Development Center (CDC) that was
founded in 1987 by Allan Nash who heads up Asia Divers and
El Galleon Beach Resort, both located next to each other.
There are more than 30 dive sites within reach by boat in 15

30

minutes, and you can dive five times a day if At nearly 21m depth you come across a
you like, including a dusk or night dive. Easy cave and then another at 27m depth; between
and nice, perfect for Open Water divers at clear those, you sweep past a seabed covered with
18m depth. Take a boat out and dive at about lovely soft and hard corals that’s home to
9m depth and fin towards coral crusted surgeonfish, fusiliers, cuttlefish and more. The
boulders standing about 4m high. They offer variety of coral cover is astounding with large
pretty views until you reach a hole that’s wide table corals, bommies, and soft corals, even
enough for just one to swim through at a time. lacy gorgonians. Take with you a magnifying
glass if you don’t have a trained eye, or you
As you emerge from the other side, a hard might miss the tiny pygmy seahorse on the
coral garden greets you where you may chance yellow fan coral.
upon yapping moray eels, puffer, porcupine fish
and even a 3-metre long banded sea snake. Verde Island
Now the boat tide to Verde Island takes
The Canyons about 45 minutes. Gear up at leisure and drop
Now this is a tricky one depending on how off on the east side of the island where the
the tides flow and where the currents dictate. pinnacles peep above the water surface. Here
Diving at 28-30m depth you come across three you can go deep, but don’t get carried away by
beautiful walls set apart by plunging ravines. the amazing lofty formations covered with
Currents can be pretty swift so grabbing on to a myriads of sponges, crinoids and corals. For
rock while ogling at the extra large sweetlips certain do not get swept away by the
and snappers isn’t a bad idea. You end the dive outrageous currents. Lots of pelagics, jacks,
by posing next to a relic – a nearly 2m big barracudas, and corals.
anchor camouflaged by coral that once served Welcome to nature’s playground! 
a proud Spanish Galleon well.

31

KADAYAWAN
Culture

Kadayawan Indigenous Festival Celebrates a Rainbow of
Cultures
By Henrylito D.Tacio

Kadayawan is a festival of floats, street-dancing
festivals. It honors Davao’s competitions and exhibits of
artistic, cultural and historical island’s tourism products and
heritage, its past personified by services.
the ancestral lumads, its people The two big parades of the
as they celebrate on the streets. festival are often held during
You’ll find the floral industry’s weekends. The street dancing,
representatives parading in full called Indak-Indak sa
regalia in thanksgiving for the Kadalanan, is done on Saturday
blessings granted on the city. while the floral float parade falls
The celebration has three on Sunday.
aspects: tribal, industrial, arts The floral float parade
and entertainment. Pamulak Kadayawan is a
Commemorated every third spectacular finale – patterned
week of August, it is a week- after the Pasadena Parade of
long celebration with floral Roses in the United States. 

Remembering the
ancestral people - lumads
- as youths take to the
streets in celebration of
Davao’s greatest festival.
Head down to Mindanao
Province to be infected by
the joy of this season.

32

STREET DANCING, FLORAL
PARADES: DAVAO IS A
RIOT OF ACTIVITIES

33

HITESH
Expert

“LET’S STOP MAKING THE ENVIRONMENT A VICTIM ...”
One person who has Mehta has put together an become a victim with the rise of
initiated change and is architectural compendium of 36 mass tourism and
inﬂuencing the tourism industry exemplary ecolodges from accompanying onslaught of ill-
for the better – through around the world that serve as managed hotels, resorts and
ecology-friendly design builder’s inspiration and lodges. Mehta quit his job to
appreciation is Hitesh S Mehta, tourism’s saving grace. spend 30 months on the road
an architect, landscape travelling to 46 countries to
architect and environmental Called Authentic Ecolodges, research and develop materials
planner. He is the president of it supports the idea that the for his book - and more eco-
HM Design based in Florida, environment should never friendly design theories.

34

The book culminates
Mehta’s decade-long research
Authentic Ecolodges
tracks down environmentally PRINCIPLES
and interviews with architects, responsible and
Eleven basic principles for
eco-consultants, developers, aesthetically beautiful
operators, indigenous ecolodges in far and exotic
ecolodges were set out in
communities and stakeholders locations. After visiting and a 1999 paper. These are:
in the ecotourism industry, inspecting 48 lodges
where he came up with a personally, Mehta excluded Help in the conservation of
criteria system to determine 8 that did not meet the set the surrounding flora and
ecolodges. criteria made consistent
fauna
throughout. Four properties Have minimal impact on the
“Ecotourism, in my opinion, were omitted due to page natural surroundings during
construction
is any tourism in nature-based constraint. The book
locations that practices the features 36 diverse Fit into its specific physical
and cultural contexts
three main principles of ecolodges from budget to through careful attention to
protection of nature; benefits luxury status with another 8 form, landscaping and
colour, as well as the use of
to local people and offering of ecolodges described in “on vernacular architecture
interpretive programs,” says the drawing boards”
Use alternative, sustainable
Mehta. Ecolodges, a growing chapter. means of water acquisition
trend in accommodations, and reduce water
must embrace these three consumption
Best of the Best
principles plus any other two Provide for careful handling
Featured ecolodges are and disposal of solid waste
out of the eight other
grouped according to twelve
principles, as Meet its energy needs
themes that through passive design and
defined by
include renewable energy sources
Mehta’s
sustainable Use traditional building
research paper
building technology and materials
in 1999. wherever possible and
materials, combines these with their
creative modern counterparts for
A Lodge too Far design, greater sustainability
In short, indigenous Endeavour to work together
ecolodges are construction with the local community
and involve them in the
“low-impact, techniques, initial planning stages
nature-based art as
Offer interpretive programs
accommodations of two to architecture, innovative
to educate both its employees
seventy-five rooms that technology, biodiversity for and tourists about the
protect the surrounding conservation, and more. surrounding natural and
environment; benefit the local Page after page, beautiful cultural environments
community; offer tourists an illustrations by Matthew
interpretive and interactive
Contribute to sustainable
Lewis tag each conceptual
local development through
participatory experience; element accompanied by
education programs and
provide a spiritual communion photographic images taken research
with nature and culture and are by the author himself. The
designed, constructed and lodges are assessed and Use environmentally friendly
operated in an environmentally reviewed by the author for
sewage treatment systems
and socially sensitive manner." their architectural relevance,

35

impact on the environment, sustainable operations
(ﬁnancially as well), and tourism appeal. “The three
main reasons I wanted to do this book was to raise
the bar in the ecolodge industry, increase
awareness amongst travellers of today and add to
the body of work for professionals and academics
alike,” said Mehta.

Special Places
“It is my hope that community-owned and
operated ecolodges continue to grow; that there will
be public and private partnerships for owning and
running these special places,” he said. 

Hitesh Mehta is the longest
serving board member of The
International Ecotourism
Society (TIES) and the author
of International Ecolodge
Guidelines. He was also a
former captain of Kenyan
cricket team.

Crosswaters Ecolodge nestled in the Nankunshan Reserve
of Guangdong, China

36

Resort

DOWN AT THE FARM
By Mallika Naguran

Take a break from the
ordinary and get
HEALTHY in the So good it has won
several cuisine
Philippines awards.

But health is not
At The Farm resort & limited to the physical.
wellness centre in the “Holistic involves the
Batangas province of the healing of the mind,
Philippines, western medicine body and spirit,” says
complements age-old Asian Michael Di Lonardo,
practices such as Ayurveda, general manager of Detox programs are
an ancient healing movement The Farm. “In treating the prescribed after consulting the
originating from India. physical body, you touch the in-house doctor, and depending
mental and spiritual. That’s the on the guest's' condition, this
A team of doctors and basis of holistic care.” can include nutritional
nurses administer microscopy, colon hydrotherapy,
personalised programs to The Farm sees varied wheatgrass infusion therapy,
guests with specific health guests, from weekend trippers Digital Meridian Diagnostic
issues that include vegan food reveling in the delectable vegan System (DMS), kidney cleansing,
supplement like wheat grass cuisine to health sufferers. liver cleansing, body salt bath
shots, exercise likes brisk Guests can book up to and also massages.
walk and yoga, meditation, participate in the numerous
and cleansing treatment of the health and fitness programs Drinking virgin coconut oil
kidney, liver and gut. Vegan including yoga and invigorating (VCO) is also recommended as a
food grown organically is nature walks in the grounds of medical boost. According to the
served at The Farm, mostly the estate. doctors, VCO cleanses from the
raw and deliciously prepared.

Virgin Coconut Oil has all these goodness. Take
been taken as a health two tablespoons a day to
antidote since time keep common ailments at
immemorial because of bay, keep your immune
its anti-microbial, anti- system working at peak
fungal and anti-bacterial fitness - and because it
properties. Cold-pressed tastes good too!
virgin coconut oil retains

38

mouth to the anus, killing
parasites, viruses, fungi and
bacteria.

At The Farm, coconut oil is
used in the manufacture of
soaps, and the shell of the fruit
is used as a bowl with which
delicious home-made granola
and fruit is served. Massages
are to optimize the ﬂow of chi
to the body and harmonize it.

Chi in Chinese medicine or
prana in Indian medical
traditions refer to life force
within us beyond the physical.
It is to re-connect to the “inner
essence” and develop the
ability to obtain healing energies foods to boost the body’s at The Farm, but with new-found
through nature. Staff at The immune system. Guests return wisdom of how to eat right and
Farm will share the health home not just with memories of live healthier. 
beneﬁts of eating raw health feeling better after having stayed

Peacocks, ducks, age-old trees help with meditation while vegetables grow
naturally without chemicals to feed guests with wholesome vegan foods

39

Resort
KRI, RAJA AMPAT
by Mallika Naguran

Eco can mean a number of things to
different people.
By Mallika Naguran

The first thing that springs to mind
for most is the preservation of nature.
For Max Ammer, a pioneer dive
operator in Raja Ampat and owner of
Kri Eco Resort and Sorido Bay Resort
at West Papua, Indonesia, people are at
the heart of any ecology-related
business. “To me, eco means working
building of his Kri Eco Resort, even including with the local people to build a better
the jetty that Max’s father helped to build, future,” says Ammer. Little of the coral
aided by local talent. In fact, everything reef at Cape Kri (house reef) was
about Kri Eco Resort is handmade: the destroyed or impacted upon with the
Sunset Lounge and its lazy deck chairs, the
bamboo chalets, the coconut leaf and nut
wall finishing and interior décor.

Even the bricks are made by hand by the
senior local people on Max’s team. The first
thing that springs to mind for most is the
preservation of nature. For Max Ammer, a
pioneer dive operator in Raja Ampat and
owner of Kri Eco Resort and Sorido Bay
Resort at West Papua, Indonesia, people are
at the heart of any ecology-related business.
“To me, eco means working with the local
people to build a better future,” says Ammer.
“I want local people to make the money,”
says Max, who reveals that he could have
built the resorts (including the higher-end

Conservation at Raja Ampat now is taking surveillance to keep an eye on illegal
on new heights with an aerial monitoring activities on water and land. And the pilot
programme sponsored by CI and various keeping vigil behind the wheels? None
other NGOs. This involves a light aircraft other than Max Ammer!

40

Sorido Resort) and run the
operations quicker with more
experienced staff from other parts
of Indonesia, but he chose to train
and work with local Papuans
instead to help them out of
poverty. Management staff and
trainers include a few
Westerners. Still, Max is
committed to West Papua in more
ways that one. He builds local
talent and skills in this remote
region of Indonesia spanning from
tourism-related ventures to trades
for livelihood to careers in scuba
diving.

Local Talent
Max believes in employing cockatoos and hornbills. No involves the issue of an annual
local talents, even as dive guides need for alarm clocks here. waterproof plastic entrance tag
and masters; as such he invests At breakfast, we are startled to scuba divers. Part of the fee
heavily in education and training, to see a pair of coconut crabs goes to community development,
which includes English Language huddled around a bamboo pylon conservation and enforcement,
conversational and writing skills. at the lounge ceiling. Hideous as covering marine areas and land-
He did not wait for PADI to roll they are, they are also harmless based activities such as logging
out instructional workbooks in and rather immobile; apparently and mining.
Indonesian language. Instead they lie on coconut trees and
Western teachers were hired to love cracking the solid fruits with In 2007 and 2008, priority
translate materials and concepts their rock-hard pincers. was given to the “Posyandu”
from English to Bahasa system, which is a healthcare
Indonesia, plus oral instruction provision for mothers and
Fish Fantasia
and pictograms. “This is how children. Something that’s also
I sat a respectable distance
West Papuans with elementary close to Max’ heart: in the early
away from them. The guest
education get their advancement days, he had improved the water
rooms at Kri Eco Resort are also
in scuba diving careers at Kri and wells in Raja Ampat with
perched above the waters, so a
Sorido Bay eco resorts,” explains chlorination and safety measures
daily sight would be numerous
Max. and created 13 new wells for the
fish species flitting around the
Every night, following dinner, local people. 
pylons, seeking shelter from sea
guests gaze at the juvenile currents or storms. Baby
bamboo sharks wading in the barracudas pursue parrotfish of
shallows just below the dining amazing variety, tagged along by
lounge on stilts. In the morning, turtles.
we are awakened by hysterical
cackles from endemic birds such An important regulatory
as eclectis parrots, brush mechanism of the Raja Ampat
turkeys, sulphur crested Marine Park is the Rp500,000
tourism entrance fee, which

41

Gaia Ad -
Subscribe
& Gaia
Ideas
With Thanks to Our Distinguished Panel of Advisers...
Jose Ramos-Horta, President of Timor-Leste and 1996 Nobel Laureate; Balgis Osman-Elasha, IPPC
Member & 2007 Nobel Laureate; Thomas J. Goreau, President of Global Coral Reef Alliance & Coordinator
of UN Commission on Sustainable Development Partnership in New Technologies for Small Island
Developing States; James Canton, CEO of Institute of Global Futures; Kala Vairavamoorthy, UNESCO-IHE;
Hitesh Mehta, eco-architect & TIES Board Member

42

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Gaia guide2011 for eco travellers

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