Food discourses evolution. The role of food security in the evolution of food discourse in Italy
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How the discourses about food changed in Italy through the latest decades; which are the main actors and events that affected these changes; PDo and PGI labels; new transversal market alliances.
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Food discourses evolution. The role of food security in the evolution of food discourse in Italy
- 1. International conference on the Local & Regional Food System Planning Trade-off or convergence? The role of food security in the evolution of food discourse in Italy Asan-city September 10th, 2012 Professor Gianluca Brunori Vanessa Malandrin, Research Fellow University of Pisa
- 3. How do people change their general attitude to food? Who is involved in these processes? What strategies and tools are used to influence consumer thinking?
- 4. The evolution of food discourse 3 phases in the discourse of food security 1. From II World War to end of 1980s: modernization frame with emphasis on on productivity and the industrial organization of production 2. 1990s: “turn to quality” phase 3. Economic crisis and emergence of food poverty
- 5. The evolution of food discourse 1960 -’90: standardization, delocalization and gradual erosion of quality in italian food industry Strict food safety rules: diversity (and a different concept of quality) is sacrificed to achieve the goal of higher hygiene standards The “Made in Italy” brand attracted many international corporations, which became involved in the business of traditional products Some examples: San Daniele ham, gorgonzola cheese, extra-virgin olive oil
- 6. Trascinare l'immagine su un segnaposto o fare clic sull'icona per aggiungerla
- 7. The “turn to quality” phase Reg. (CEE) 2081/1992 regulation on PDO&PGI During the 1990s quality became the base for the identity of italian food The generic image of the “Made in Italy” based on images of pizza and spaghetti was replaced More attention to regional specificities, traditional products and artisanal production New opportunities for farmers and small food processing enterprises
- 8. The New Food Consensus The new concept of quality became the base for a new italian consensus on food Food industry and corporations adopted some aspects fo the new discourse and contributed to its development
- 10. Slow Food movement (1) In 1989 Carlo Petrini and Folco Portinari presented the Slow Food Manifesto: We are enslaved by speed and we have all succumbed to the same insidious virus: Fast Life, which disrupts our habits, pervades the privacy of our homes and forces us to eat Fast Foods.
- 11. Slow Food movement (2) 1996: first “Taste Fair”, an opportunity to show to a wide public a gastronomic heritage in danger of extinction caused by modernization 1999: petition “In defence of the Italian gastronomic heritage” which was being jeopardized by the new food safety regulations
- 13. Slow Food movement (3) 2001: manifesto “In defence of raw milk cheese” to protest against the closure of many small dairies by Health Authorities http://www.slowfood.com/slowcheese/ The growing success of traditional food was mobilized to create political pressure in order to adapt food standards introduced by EU regulations in order to respect local specificities
- 14. Slow Food movement (4) 2004: first edition of Terra Madre, a turning point for the food movement in Italy and probably elsewhere It marked the shift of Slow Food from a focus on pleasure to a focus on security there is no contradiction between quality and affordability, localism and multiculturalism, safety and artisanal quality, and security and pleasure
- 15. Emerging storylines Quality is not only about safety: there is artisanal quality opposed to industrial quality EU standards have created a trade-off between safety and quality; some of the norms are too restrictive, putting in danger hundreds of traditional local products Industrial large scale production and artisanal small scale production have different characteristics; safety rules need to be tailored to the specific features of small producers
- 16. … and some positive results 1999: the Ministry of Agriculture approved a national regulation that gave a special dispensation of the safety rules for traditional products 2004: the positive impacts of the Italian system lead to EU Reg. (853/2004), which gives to the member states the freedom to adapt food safety rules to local specificities
- 17. Farmer’s Unions Coldiretti: gradually abandoned the modernization discourse and corporatist defence of CAP price support, and proposed a new business model based on multifunctionality and direct sell Tradition, locality and family farming became common elements of Coldiretti’s concept of quality Traceability
- 19. New trasversal market alliances Eataly http://eatalyny.com/how-to-eataly It works in partnership with Slow Food, reconciling the best of Italian artisanal food products with affordable prices by reducing the food chain to the essential, and creating a direct relationship between producers and the retailer
- 20. New trasversal market alliances McDonald’s McItaly: sandwich made with Italian ingredients, some of which are PDO products campaign in partnership with the Ministry of Agriculture
- 21. Challenges for the new italian food consensus Food availability and affordability have become the biggest challenges to the Made in Italy consensus How to keep the legitimacy of ‘artisanal quality’ without being accused of neglecting food security?
- 22. Challenges for the new italian food consensus Mediterranean diet & Sustainable diets Obesity Land planning vs soil consumption GMOs Organic farming Food sovereignty
Editor's Notes
- The first frame is challenged by the emergence of the organic movement and Slow Food. Then, also a series of food scandals undermined its legitimacy and marks the transition to a second phase, characterised by the ‘turn to quality’, which facilitates the development of a ‘Made in Italy food consensus’. In 1986 some low-price wine mixed with methanol killed 21 people. The 2nd phase is based on the concept of artisanal quality (Murdoch and Miele, 1999; Tregear et al. 2007), which embodies local and organic food as components of Italian food identity. It gains consensus in the business sector thanks to its value-creation strategy that replaces the emphasis on the cost-competitiveness approach in the industry. In this phase, food security mainly concerns food safety, conservation of national food identity and the survival of family farming. 3rd phase: development of a frame that links environmental, health, agricultural and socio-economic issues, and that stimulates communication between food companies, political parties, public administrations, food movements and consumers.
- Early 1970s, birth of organic farming: a radical critique of the food system and of the modernization discourse The critique of agricultural modernization was strengthened by the foundation of Slow Food.
- San Daniele ham, gorgonzola cheese, extra-virgin olive oil
- The first Regulation was the substituted by Reg. (CE) n. 510/2006 ) of the European Union Counsil Quality became also a strategic resourse to compete on the global markets, and more recently became the key for the national approach to food security Also power games changed in this new framework, because the new definition of quality was in contrast with the industrial logic of production, based on technological innovation and brand management. Quality starts to be considered more and more linked to local specificity - represented by traditional recipes, local biodiversity, artisanal manifacturing – and becomes more and more important in policy making
- BSE outbreak in 1996. Italians discovered that modernization of the food system had not made food as safe as they expected. Given that BSE occurred in countries where modernization had happened much faster than in Italy, Italians were encouraged to acknowledge that ‘modernization’ of the food sector was not a guarantee for food safety
- The slow food movement slogan is: good, clean, just (fair)
- New food consensus: These campaigns involved farmers’ unions at a local level, NGOs, local administrations, and were also widely covered in the media (Brunori 2007). The first taste fair had a big success: 8000 visitors per day
- Colonnata lard, aged in cellars obtained from marble excavation in Tuscany
- New food consensus: These campaigns involved farmers’ unions at a local level, NGOs, local administrations, and were also widely covered in the media (Brunori 2007).
- In 2011 in Italy there were 233 PDOs and PGIs and 511 wine geographical indications. Even more impressive, 4606 ‘traditional products’ were recognized by the Ministry of Agriculture. Artisanal quality, in contrast to industrial quality, has become the key to the Italian food strategy (Ventura et al, 2006).
- In 2002, it proposed a ‘pact with consumers’ centered on the quality of food and the environment. One of the keywords of the new pact was ‘traceability’, which involved consumers being informed of the origin of the product
- 63 markets only in tuscany In June 2010 for several days the media published the story of ‘blue mozzarella’ found in shops in northern Italy Coldiretti was very active in producing press releases linking food safety problems to imported food Food risks were increasingly being associated with imported products or imported raw materials.
- GMO: Slow Food movement: “... when the contamination will be done, our 'Made in Italy' will become just an empty label” In 2007 the alliance “Free from GMOs” was established. It consists of 32 members Although its image was related to small and traditional farming, Slow Food established partnerships with the most important Italian food companies such as Barilla, Lavazza, CoopItalia (Fonte, 2006), Ferrero, and more recently, with Federalimentare, the employers’ association of the food sector.
- ensuring that civil society and subaltern publics have a voice in the public sphere.