Tweed has become a popular fabric for fashion and outdoor activities. The document provides an overview of the history and types of tweed, including those named after sheep breeds or regions. It also details tweed weights suited for different purposes and essential tweed wardrobe items like jackets and suits. Key tweeds discussed include Harris Tweed, Cheviot, and Shetland.

1. A Guide to Tweed

2. Tweed has become something of a
fashion item of late & with the
resurgence of this British classic, we
thought that we would put together
a short guide to help steer you
through the huge selection of tweed
fabrics & styles available to you.

3. The Background of its popularity
Tweed was the sporting attire of choice for the 19th and early 20th-century gentleman.
The English gentry quickly adopted tweed as the ideal outdoor cloth on their upcountry estates. Wearing tweed made hunting,
shooting, and fishing comfortable, enjoyable pastimes.
Tweed also became very popular among the 19th-century Victorian middle classes who associated it with the leisure pursuits of the
aristocracy and thus suited their new found wealth and status.

4. Tweed has since become synonymous with field sports, such as shooting and fishing.
However over the last few years the quality of tweed and sheer selection of designs have
meant that it has become a standard in the fashion World.
Now being worn by field sportsmen, country and city dwellers,men and women, tweed really
is everywhere and the choices and designs seemingly endless.
The following pages will hopefully give you an insight in to what tweeds are available for you
to have your clothing made from.

5. Types of Tweed
This sounds simple, but it is easy to
get confused as some tweeds are
named after the sheep that
produced the wool, others after the
region they came from, others from
the design, some are brands and
others just from the function they
provide.

6. Tweeds named after sheep
Cheviot
Cheviot Tweed is named after a breed of white faced sheep first
kept in the Cheviot hills of Northumberland and the Scottish
borders.
Cheviot yarn is generally larger, rougher, and heavier than other
types of tweed. It is a stiff fabric with a certain “sharpness” to the
touch, and a bright luster. Cheviot fabric is normally woven more
tightly, making it well suited for country wear due to its firmness
and durability and city wear due to its ability to drape well and
hold a crease.

7. Shetland
Shetland tweed was originally woven from sheep raised on islands of the same
name. The wools from these sheep are exceptionally fine with a soft, delicate
and a slightly shaggy finish. It is the epitome of a casual tweed.
These links provide some more tweeds in this range
http://www.moons.co.uk/apparel/jacketing/shetland-herringbone/
http://www.moons.co.uk/apparel/jacketing/shetland-twill
http://www.moons.co.uk/apparel/jacketing/shetland-plain-weave/

8. Tweed named after places
Donegal Tweed
The name is derived from the Irish county of Donegal. The fabric is coarse
which produces a rustic look, and features contrast-colored “neps” or “slubs”
that produces a casual, sporty look.
Saxony Tweed
In the Middle Ages, Spanish sumptuary laws forbade the export of Merino
producing sheep from the Christian areas of Spain. As those laws were
relaxed, in 1765 the King of Spain sent a herd of Merino sheep to his cousin
the Elector of Saxony in 1765. By the end of the century, the state of
Saxony had 4 million of these sheep.
It is unique because it uses two-ply yarn; two yarns that are twisted together
to make up the fabric and give it a textured look and feel. This also means
the tweed is particularly dense, durable and rain resistant.
Saxony tweed has a fine, short pile on its face and is very soft.

9. Harris Tweed
Genuine Harris Tweed is woven exclusively by the islanders of Scotland’s
remote Outer Hebrides, and is so exclusive it's protected by its own Act of
Parliament!
The Harris Tweed Act of 1993 states that it must be "hand-woven by the
islanders Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra in their homes, using pure virgin wool
that has been dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides."
Harris Tweed is famous throughout the world for being a particularly warm,
high quality cloth
http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/collections/porter-harding/harris-tweed

10. Tweed Patterns and design
Twill
A simple weave with a diagonal pattern running through it
Overcheck
A plain twill with a large check overlaid in contrasting colour.
Herringbone
Herringbone is so named because it looks like fish bones.
The direction of the slant alternates column by column to
create ‘v’ shapes.

11. Barleycorn
Barleycorn tweeds are typically coarse and have a weave
that produces the effect of barley kernels when viewed
close-up.
Houndstooth & Dogtooth
This pattern resembles the back teeth of a dog. The larger
houndstooth pattern is contrasted with the smaller “dogtooth.”
Plaid
Plaid style tweeds are pretty similar to tartan featuring patterns
of horizontal and vertical lines
Glenurquhart
This is a design utilising small and large checks. Usually used in more
muted colours

12. Estate (herringbone overcheck)
A traditional herringbone pattern overlaid with a basic check.
These are often known as Estate Tweeds, as each Highland
estate would typically commission its own distinctive version
for its gamekeepers and for when hunting, with colours
tones chosen to match the estate’s local landscape and
vegetation, for camouflage.
Striped Tweeds
Pretty self explanatory, simply tweeds with distinctive vertical
lines to create visible stripes, usually of different sizes
Check Tweeds
A horizontal and vertical pattern used to create small checks.
Often seem with a larger overcheck of a different colour

13. Tweed Weight
Tweeds come in a variety of weights which make them more suitable for certain
activities, and this next section will provide an insight into this.
The weight of your tweed plays a large part in what you are using the clothing for.
A heavier weight of tweed is perfect if you are going to be wearing your tweed in
the field where as if you are simply looking for a classic tweed suit or jacket to
wear on a day to day basis a medium weight tweed is going to be far better for
you.

14. Heavy weight
As the name suggests, this is the heavier side of tweed.
The most usual weight of heavy tweed that we use is around 18-21oz / 640gms / metre
This is the perfect weight for those who want to wear their tweed clothing outdoors. It is
usually the weight we use for game keepers and Estate workers. One of the favourite ranges
that we use is treated with a showerproof finish to provide even more protection from the
elements.
This weight is too heavy for a classic suit or even a sports jacket unless you are after
something with some substantial body
This link shows a few more tweeds in this range - http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/collections/porter-harding/hartwist

15. Mid weight
This is our most popular choice of tweed.
This range of tweed ranges from around 14-16oz in weight.
This is the tweed to go for if you want a shooting suit that you can wear early season but
may require a bit of thermal under garments on the colder days.
It is also a great tweed for classic jackets and suits, warm enough to protect you from the
elements but cool enough to wear indoors.
This range also carries the most varied of designs and colours and is possibly a more fashion
conscious range.
Use these links to see more tweeds in this range
http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/collections/porter-harding/glenroyal
http://www.moons.co.uk/apparel/jacketing/shetland-twill/
http://www.moons.co.uk/apparel/jacketing/tweed-estates/

16. Lighter weight
This is the lightest range of tweeds we usually use and they range around 10-12oz in weight.
Although these are still good hardwearing tweeds, these are usually only used for jackets and
lightweight tweed suits. They can be used in the field but only on warmer days.
This range offers a full selection of patterns and designs
This link will give you a full selection of tweeds available in this range -
http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/collections/porter-harding/glorious-twelfth

17. Types of clothing
These are just a few of the options
that you can have made for you
from the ever versatile tweed

18. Overcoats

19. Classic tweed sports jacket

20. Shooting clothing

21. Classic tweed suits

22. Waistcoats, trousers, coats and breeks

23. Colours and designs
for every occasion
One of the many joys of tweed is
that there is such a huge selection
of designs and colours to choose
from so you can be as classic or as
eccentric as you wish!

24. Essential tweed
wardrobe items

25. If you are a lover of tweed or are thinking
about adding some tweed to your
wardrobe, there are a few key items that
will last you for ever and never go out of
fashion.
1. Classic tweed jacket
This is something that everyone should
have in their wardrobe.
Pick a medium weight tweed and from a
design that suits your lifestyle and
personality.
Go with a classic design, with 1 or 2
buttons, notch lapel and 2 vents. You can
wear this with jeans, as part of a suit or
with smart trousers and a tie. It is incredibly
versatile, hard wearing and will become a
staple of your everyday wear.

26. Tweed Suit
2. A Classic 3 piece tweed suit
If you can afford it, always go for a three
piece suit as it allows you to layer up for the
colder months as well as allowing you to
leave the waistcoat behind and wear it
simply as a two piece.
If you only really want to start with one
piece of tweed clothing, I would always buy
a tweed three piece suit in a subtle design.
You can wear the tweed jacket as a tweed
jacket on it’s own, the trousers as tweed
trousers on their own and then add them all
together to create a complete new look.
Remember; tweed is versatile and goes
with nearly everything and should be one of
the 1st things into your bespoke wardrobe.

27. Here at Barrington Ayre we will do everything we can to help you
with your bespoke wardrobe, so please simply contact us to
discuss your needs
Barrington Ayre Shirtmaker & Tailor Ltd
11-17 Market Place
Cirencester, Gloucestershire
GL7 2PB
Tel: 01285 689431
Mob: 07511 794702
info@barringtonayre.co.uk
www.barringtonayre.co.uk