Fashion is a challenging industry, transforming faster than ever before. There are new brands, styles, influencers, and even new skills. 'Working in fashion' means something remarkably different from a decade ago, built on Inclusivity, diversity, and sustainability. The first edition of The VOU, dedicated to the Pride month of 2021, explores the meaning of 'Pride' in the context of fashion. Pride means many different things to the LGBTQ+ community; rage, gratitude, protest, celebration, revelation, and reflection. Built on personal and collective experiences, for so long, queerness was seen as the exception, a bitter disappointment, an affliction. Nowadays, queerness is freedom, embracing opposing concepts while recognizing similarities and seeing through stylistic conventions and traditions.
Access the full magazine for free at: https://thevou.com
7.
JUNE ISSUE
CONTENT
Androgynous Fashion
The History - brief history of
androgynous fashion, from exclusive dress
for the aristocratic class to current days...
22
The Look - key stylistic elements to look
androgynous by incorporating masculine
and feminine outfits...
22
The Designers - best androgynous fashion
designers in 2021, subverting gender
norms and redefining fashion for good...
23
Gender Neutral Clothing
Outdated Concepts - the binary concept
of clothing is outdated within the confines
of the fashion industry...
28
Gender Neutral Designers - expressing
style uniqueness rather than disguising the
wearer's gender...
29
Breaking The Norms
High Heels For Men - how men
shifted from wearing heels in war, to
showcasing a progressive fashionable
40
The Styles - from ankle boots to high
heel stilettos and from tabi-toes to
platform heels...
41
Inclusive Beauty
Celebrating Diversity - highlighting
the dazzling limitlessness of beauty,
stripped from the boundaries and
labels...
49
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LETTER FROM THE
EDITOR
Fashion is a challenging industry, transforming faster than ever before. There are new brands, styles,
influencers, and even new skills. 'Working in fashion' means something remarkably different from a
decade ago. After 52 published newsletters, speaking with over 700 people in 42 countries, from
students to CEOs, at the start of this month, I met with my colleagues in London to discuss these
changes.
Interestingly, every one of you voiced and requested the same three core things: inclusivity, diversity,
and sustainability. As a response, we have built The VOU, a contemporary, trendsetting, and
challenging fashion, beauty, and lifestyle magazine with your needs in mind. And what better month to
explore "inclusivity, diversity, sustainability" than Pride month?
Pride is a month of protest, celebration, revelation, and reflection. Built on personal and collective
experiences, Pride means many different things to the LGBTQ+ community, from rage to gratitude and
back. For so long, queerness was seen as the exception, a bitter disappointment, an affliction.
Nowadays, queerness is freedom, embracing opposing concepts while recognizing similarities and
seeing through stylistic conventions and traditions.
There's power in fashion and LGBTQ+, as one of the most varied and diverse communities needs it to
question society's authority: to express strength, protest, celebration, defiance, joy, fear, power, and above
all, beauty. It is a month of embracing differing forces, fear, and power, love and defiance, self and other,
an open invitation to get to know yourself, away from the herd, conformity, and tradition — a month of
Launching today on
thevou.com, our newsletter,
and across social media
channels such as Instagram,
Pinterest, and LinkedIn, we
draw insights from LARA
Media Group's global
network of journalists and
influencers, from New York
to London and Hong Kong.
We'll do it through succinct
analysis and impactful visual
storytelling so you can get on
with your day.
Today is just the beginning,
so please, support us and get
in touch — sign up for our
bespoke weekly newsletter
via www.thevou.com and
send us an email with what
you'd like to see us cover.
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WHAT IS ANDROGYNOUS
FASHION
?
While androgynous fashion is an ideal way to express
one's non-binary gender identity, even celebrities get
the style wrong, often with embarrassing consequences.
The term androgynous originates from the Latin word
‘androgyne' and describes a mix of male and female
physical characteristics. Hence, ‘androgynous fashion’
describes mixed-gender clothing & accessories.
Stylistically, the aim is to avoid creating a visual
distinction between masculine and feminine
physical characteristics but showcase a non-binary
style and identity. As such, androgynous fashion
styles are NEITHER feminine NOR masculine,
but gender-inclusive and sexually neutral…
HOW TO LOOK ANDROGYNOUS
Choosing the right color is essential in
androgynous clothing as the perfect
androgynous look relies on neutral tones
such as black, white, and subtle shades of
grey. True, an occasional splash of color can
amp up your look, especially if you're going for
once dedicated men's apparel, such as men's overalls.
Also, pairing your hair color with the right cut
(or style) is equally essential. Style-wise, as a
general rule, if you have a female body type,
it is best to wear loose bottoms. That's because
tight pants tend to show off curves, and that's the
opposite of what the androgynous look is about.
Also, avoid wearing femboy aesthetic outfits – it would only make
you look super feminine. Male jeans (boyfriend jeans for women)
are a great option here. Even better, pair your oversized jeans with
a vegan jacket or a cardigan for a streetwear effect. Speaking of
which, make sure you always pick an oversized top. A loose top will
hide your figure better than something super-fitted. For a more office
look, wear button-up shirts for men. Wear the shirts under a cardigan and
pair them with 'boyfriend jeans' and canvas sneakers. The canvas sneakers
will cool down a your office look and keep it a casual vibe.
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If you have a male body type, you must recourse to
feminine fabrics and styles. Choose garments made
from soft fabrics, such as lace, silk, satin, and
velvet. Also, when possible, wear tailored tops.
Cardigans or oversized jackets over t-shirts, paired
with jeans and sneakers, create an excellent
everyday androgynous look. For a more powerful
statement, you can wear a semi-transparent blouse.
Just make sure you pair it with vaporous trousers
from the same material, of similar color, and short
heel shoes.
Hats and scarfs are by nature perceived as gender-
neutral, so use them as great accessories to amplify
your androgynous look. You can go for a fedora,
newsboy cap, trapper, or even a baseball hat.
Regardless of your choice for a hat or scarf, make
sure you wear them when you need to break down
an overpowering, unified style. As an androgyne,
your makeup must blend subtle and bold elements,
and Korean beauty standards are the best example
of this genderless look. Start with matte powder to
create a natural look and a bold brow - by
accentuating the length and thickness and a relaxed
lipstick.
Last but not least, when it comes to the most
suitable androgynous hairstyle, short hair is
recommended, especially for those with
female features. The pixie and the buzz
cut are some of the best androgynous
hairstyles right now in 2021. You can
also go for a side mohawk to add an extra
level of edginess to your overall look. For those
with masculine features, longer haircuts are
preferred.
BEST
ANDROGYNOUS
FASHION
DESIGNER
The following four androgynous
clothing designers are rocking the
latest fashion trends in 2021.
1
TOOGOOD
Launched by two sisters, Faye and Erica, Toogood
is a British androgynous clothing label aiming to
leave conformity and convention behind. The duo's
creations are not only gender-neutral but also
sustainably made.
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2WILDFANG
Its founders – Emma Mcilroy, Taralyn Thuot,
and Julia Parsley – describe Wildfang as a
tomboy-chic brand with a feminist ethos" that aims to
end all gender stereotypes through fashion.
3ONE DNA
Hailing from New York, ‘One DNA‘ has become
the front house of androgynous fashion. In
simple terms, the label fosters the idea that there’s an
androgynous side to each one of us.
4CHELSEA BRAVO
Chelsea Bravo is an Androgynous fashion
designer based in London, UK. Born in
Brooklyn, Chelsea’s androgynous designs blend
stylistic features that make these two fashion capitals
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The binary concept of clothing is outdated within the confines of
an otherwise groundbreaking industry like fashion. As the line
between "men's" and "women's" clothing styles fades away, the
category of gender-neutral clothing gets harder to pin down. The
fun thing about wearing gender-neutral clothes is that despite
preconceived ideas, there's nothing wrong with them. In the
past, women were vilified for wearing trousers; now, it's the
most normal thing you imagine. Similarly, if a man puts a dress
on, it won't burst into flames; it'll just look good.
Queer and trans people have been subverting gender norms for
decades, yet it's taken a long time for society to stop gender
stereotypes and accept new fashion ideas. By definition, the concept of
gender-neutral fashion describes the middle of two extremes; once the
edges come together, what does the middle describe? In the past, it
was easy to picture a selection of gender-neutral clothing (think
structured suits, loose shirts, lots of jeans, men's overalls). On the
other hand,
modern, gender-neutral fashion pushes towards a panoply of
interconnected yet distinct approaches to the style.
Finally, the mainstream media and designers are catching up,
following high-profile celebs like Harry Styles wearing a gown
or Billie Eilish sporting gender-neutral brands. Non-binary
models like Indya Moore - the first trans person of color to
cover ELLE Magazine last year - represent a community
flouting gender rules all along.
It's been a long time
coming, but the fashion industry is finally taking a hint
as brands are becoming more fluid, with runway shows
using models of all genders to wear their clothes. Prada,
Gucci, and McQueen have been showcasing gender-neutral
pieces for some time now, thanks to an understanding that's
evolving into a multifaceted stylistic take compared to the
last decades of fashion.
There's nothing better than gender-neutral clothing to avoid
being cataloged by gender and facing the vast slew of
interconnected stereotypes. As such, most gender-neutral
clothing brands design garments to disguise the wearer’s
gender. But there are gender-free clothing labels that allow
the wearer to showcase where they see themselves on the
GENDER NEUTRAL
CLOTHING
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4WALES BONNER
Launched by the British designer Grace
Wales Bonner in 2014, Wales Bonner is a
gender-free label with a twist. The designer
embraces a diversity of design perspectives with
lenses from critical theory, musical compositions,
literature, and history.
2BODE
A creation of Emily Adams Bode,
Bode is a gender-neutral clothing
brand marketed as luxury menswear. The
label communicates ' sentimentality for the
past' through one-of-a-kind modern
workwear silhouettes united with female-
centric applique, made from antique textiles
3BLACK CRANE
Driven by the ethos "Clothes Are Tool Of
Living," Black Crane has a comfortable
gender-neutral style that feels relaxing and
functional for daily wear. With supply lines and
comfort at the core, the brand's pieces are also great
for all-inclusive silhouettes designed to
complement the body.
1TELFAR
A creation of Telfar Clemens, this genderless
clothing label ruled NYC long before the fashion
establishment deemed gender-neutral fashion a trend.
Self-taught designer, Telfar has won a devoted
following by living up to its motto, "not for you, for
everyone" – so much that the label's signature bag was
dubbed the "Bushwick Birkin."
5ECKHAUSE LATTA
Launched by the design duo Mike Eckhaus and
Zoe Latta, Eckhaus Latta is a New York- based
fashion brand with a gender-neutral approach to
clothing, offering an alternative free from branding
and boxing people.
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The first records of men wearing high heels point
to the 10th-century Persian cavalry, designed to
keep the rider's feet firmly in stirrups while
riding and using weapons. Opposing to women
who wore heels to augment their beauty, men
wore heels to showcase military prowess, high
social status, and in some cases, a progressive
fashionable taste.
Nowadays, the number of men reclaiming their
space in the high heel fashion world by making
profound statements of style and confidence is
rising fast. Designer brands like Balenciaga, Tom
Ford, Maison Margiela, Marc Jacobs, Celine,
Amina Muaddi, YSL, Prada Christian
Louboutin, Manolo Blahnik, Versace, and
Bottega Veneta, are making heels for men that
look stunning, regardless of gender or age.
Let's be honest here; men have great legs, and
with such an assortment of styles, it would be a
crime not to show them off in a pair of high
heels. While there is a stigma attached to men
wearing heels, men wear them because it
changes their body stance and how they walk.
High heels also emphasise the buttocks,
making men feel more sensual and
attractive. After decades of arguing
men wearing heels is doing something
wrong, as heels are for women only,
the general public's view is changing.
A recent study on gender norms revealed
that 87% of men are okay with other men
wearing heels, and 69% stated that they
would wear them too, as long as it does not
cause pain.
According to the same study, most men are
attracted to block heel pumps from black
patent leather, ankle strap heels, and tall
leather boots.
Another boot style for men that matches the teat
of those into non-binary and androgynous fashion
is the bar-style 2-inch (5 cm) heel or max 60-plus
mm heels. I still remember wearing my first pair
of high-heeled shoes; it gave me an incredible
feeling of confidence every man should feel at
least once in their lifetime.
For those bypassing the binary gender norms but
new to wearing heels for men, it takes a lot of
practice to walk without falling, but mastery
comes with practice. Another advice I can give
those new to high heels is to select a size up,
especially if buying heels for men from a
women's high-heels store.
That's because, generally, a pair of heels for men
in size ten is eleven in the women's section. For
more options, I've rounded up four main styles of
heels, from Stiletto heels to chunky platform heel
boots.
BREAKING THE NORMS
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1Rick Owens Ankle Boots
$1,655
Wear with tights, skinnies, flares, long
dresses, pleated trousers, and vintage
clothes. Finish the look with a black
handbag.
3Swear Amazon Platform Boots
$220
Pair with knee-ripped blue denim in mum
jeans style or leather pants, a T-shirt, and a
suede jacket to create a unique look with
these shoes
2Maison Margiela Tabi-toes Boots
$1,285
Great with skinny office suits (with elastic
pants), tank tops, skirts with tights, wide-
leg trouser suits, or a mid-sized dress with
tights.
4Comme Des Garçons Homme Heels
$614
Match them with pants, skirts, rompers, or
formal gowns in casual, formal, or
professional contexts, to create a unique,
showstopper look.
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INCLUSIVE
BEAUTY
There aren't many celebrities that have done a better job with diversity and inclusion, in fashion and
beauty, than Rihanna. From her makeup label to body-inclusive and plus-size fashion, Rihanna's brands
are authentic and high-quality, designed to cater to gender-neutral buyers. Promoted by gender-fluid and
body-inclusive models, Rihanna's brands appeal to new Gen of consumers who feel that finally, someone
understands their wants and needs.
By urging kindness and
individuality through meaningful
connection, profound storytelling,
and innovative artistry, the label
advocates equal rights for women,
girls, and the LGBTQ+ community.
According to a 2020 study by
Business of Fashion and McKinsey
& Company, almost two-thirds of
beauty consumers are "self-
proclaimed belief- driven buyers,"
seeking products with positive
social and environmental impact,
potentially explaining their love for
Rihanna's brands.
Launched in 2018, Rihanna's
lingerie brand Savage X Fenty was
body- inclusive from the beginning,
featuring collections of bras in sizes
ranging from 30A to 46DDD and
XS to 4X in underwear.
“I want to make stuff for people I know and love, and they come in different shapes, sizes, races, and
religions,” says Rihanna speaking about her Savage X Fenty brand.
Before that, Fenty Beauty's 40 shades of foundation (for all) was named by Time Magazine the 'Best
Invention of 2017’; “Fenty's unabashed celebration of inclusivity in their makeup campaigns put an
unprecedented spotlight on the need for diverse beauty products.”
Rihanna's labels celebrate diversity, body positivity, and inclusion by choosing, among others, gender-
neutral and plus-size body models in campaigns that receive incredibly positive responses from the
public.
A huge success with people of all genders, ages, and body sizes, Rihanna's labels highlight dazzling and
limitless beauty trends — stripped from the boundaries and labels, and we can only hope for more brands
like these.
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