1. The Truth About the Hummus Controversy:
History of the Middle East
Sung Min (Clara) Lee

2. Introduction
Hummus. Who could have thought this seemingly insignificant spread made from cooked and
mashed chickpeas could instigate such a stormy quarrel? The controversy surrounding authorization
over the food has gone beyond the dinner table discussion or debate; it has become one that deals with
the cultural identities of the two nations, Lebanon and Israel, with each country claiming authentic and
unique ownership. Yet, the conflict between Lebanon and Israel regarding the hummus is probably one
of the most harmless and more recent matters in the long list of, often bloody, conflicts between the
two countries. Having never negotiated a definite peace contract, the two countries have engaged in
sporadic yet ceaseless fights since the year 1948, the year in which Lebanon held hands with the Arabs
and attacked Israel. Ultimately, this enmity between the two countries spilled over the debate on the
origin and nationality of hummus. While Lebanon is arguing that Israel is marketing and selling what is
rightfully Lebanese food product as though Israelis, Israel is outraged by the mere idea of the Lebanese
marketing hummus as a Lebanese national food. The hummus controversy is yet another means of
Lebanon and Israel openly demonstrating their antagonism toward each other. However, as trivial as
the hummus controversy may sound, hummus can actually help to bring together the two nations and
thus offers a possibility of a new era and a step closer to peaceful reconciliation between Lebanon and
Israel.
What Is Hummus?
The etymology of the word, “hummus” suggests “the Arabic word for chickpeas.”1 As the word
itself suggests, hummus is made with “dried chickpeas, bicarbonate of soda, tahini (a Middle Eastern
paste or sauce made from ground sesame seeds), lemon, crushed garlic, a pinch of cumin (the aromatic
seeds of a plant of the parsley family), salt and olive oil and paprika to top.”2 Despite the seemingly
simple instructions and harmless ingredients of the hummus, it, in fact, requires that “the tahini has to

3. be great… good quality....” and the “ratio between the ingredients, of course, is very important.”3 In
short, the methods of making hummus can be summarized as:
…[P]ut twice the volume of chickpeas with cold water and stir in 1 tsp of bicarbonate of
soda and leave to soak for 24 hours...Bring to the boil, then turn down the heat and
simmer gently until they're tender – they need to be easy to mush, and almost falling
apart, which will take between 1 and 4 hours depending on your chickpeas.... Mix the
tahini with half the lemon juice and half the crushed garlic – it should tighten up – then
stir in enough cooled cooking liquid to make a loose paste.4
Hummus can be eaten in various ways such that it can be used as “a super spread on sandwiches and
wraps,” as a “tasty dressing,” a “great dip with raw veggies,” or could be made into a famous Middle
Eastern dish, the “falafel (fried or baked crispy balls made with chickpeas, bulgur, and spices).”5
Hummus is also one of the favorite dishes of those individuals who want to maintain a healthy diet due
to its nutritional values and low calorie. It is “rich in fiber and protein” as well as containing “vitamins
and minerals such as folic acid, zinc, and magnesium,” and can help “lower blood cholesterol” and
“help prevent cancer.”6
The Origin: Where Did Hummus Come From?
The origins of hummus are not exactly known but it is supposedly believed to “date back to the
Time of the Crusades.”7 It was first prepared in the “12th century for Saladin, the Sultan of Egypt and
Syria.”8 However, nowadays, enjoyment of hummus is not limited to the Middle Eastern countries,
though it is still prevalent “in 95% of Israeli homes and almost every Israeli restaurant serves it as an
appetizer, a side-dish or a main course.”9 Around the world, and especially in the United States and
also in Europe, the increasing popularity of hummus can be seen from a survey done by the
Information Resources Inc., a market research company that analyzes the consumer packaged goods
industry. This Chicago-based research company has announced that “U.S. Hummus consumption
increased 35% over the last 21 months, with sales reaching nearly $300 million.”10 It is also noted that
“companies that mass-produce hummus have appealed to American tastes by offering endless flavor

4. varieties, like roasted red pepper, green chili and cilantro, chocolate, and sun-dried tomato.”11 More
recently, Sabra, a hummus manufacturing company that dominates approximately 60 percent of the
American hummus market, has announced an $86 million expansion of its factory to accommodate the
sharp increase in demand.12 Ultimately, “hummus has gone from being an ‘ethnic novelty’ to an
American staple.”13 Such increased consumption was immediately followed by transferring of the
hummus controversy even to the U.S., such as the one at Princeton University, NJ in 2010. The debate
began as Princeton Committee on Palestine (PCP) called for a ban on Sabra’s hummus, which was sold
on campus.
Sabra is partially owned by the Strauss group, which is an Israeli company that has a history of
supporting the Golani Brigade of the Israeli Defense Forces. The Golani brigade is known as a
particularly reckless one and has been accused by human rights organizations of numerous
human rights violations…The Princeton Committee on Palestine objects to the fact that Sabra is
the only hummus brand that is offered in most university stores, and that students who wish to
eat this traditional Arab food are forced to buy a product that is connected to human rights
abuses against Arab civilians.14
Arabic students in other major universities soon followed, resulting in a hummus controversy across
the U.S.15
Lebanon: What Is The Controversy Surrounding Hummus?
Recently between Israel and Lebanon, there has been a hotbed controversy of the marketing
origin of Hummus. The Lebanese claim that hummus is theirs, arguing that the “first manufacturer of
hummus with tahina was a Lebanese company, back in 1959. The Lebanese were the first to
manufacture, produce, export” and “really turn hummus into an international dish.”16 Feeling the need
to devise new methods in gaining credit, recognition, and control over hummus, Lebanon is now trying
to “beat” Israel by making the most hummus in the world. They want “to win a battle against Israel by
registering this new Guinness World Record and telling the whole world that hummus is a Lebanese
product.”17 This Guinness World Record Hummus required

5. some 300 chefs.... The white-uniformed chefs used 2,976 pounds (1,350 kilograms) of
mashed chickpeas, 106 gallons (400 liters) of lemon juice and 57 pounds (26 kilograms)
of salt to make the dish, weighing 4,532 pounds (2,056 kilograms).18
Yet, this World Record only proves the ability of the Lebanese to make a quantitatively large hummus.
In order to make hummus their national dish, “Lebanon must formally register the product as Lebanese,”
which, questionably the country has not yet done.19 It is also noted that some Lebanese groups have
criticized a major American hummus manufacturer with an Israeli owner, for selling and making huge
profits from an “intrinsically Lebanese dish.”20 Sayings such as "First our land, then our hummus" have
surfaced on the internet among Lebanese groups.21
Israel: What Is The Controversy Surrounding Hummus?
Israelis, on the other hand, believe that hummus is an inevitable part of their culture and daily
lives, simply saying, “It's Israeli, and it's simply us;” people in Israel deny any counterargument about
the mere fact of the interconnectedness between hummus and the Israelis.22 They believe that
the most important culinary chapter in Israel’s history began with a love story from the
Bible: At their first encounter in the barley fields of Bethlehem, Boaz invited Ruth to
wipe hummus up with pita: “And Boaz said unto her at mealtime: ‘Come hither, and eat
of the bread, and dip thy morsel in the vinegar.’ And she sat beside the reapers; and they
reached her parched corn, and she did eat and was satisfied, and left thereof (Ruth
2:14).23
Alongside the biblical story rooted in history, hummus is considered
one of the pillars of our [Israel's] cuisine-and for good reason. Chickpeas are among the
oldest crops in the land of Israel and among the earliest foods of our ancestors; in ancient
Hebrew texts, chickpeas are called hamitz or himtza. In the modern era hummus was
initially and primarily consumed here as a breakfast food for field hands.24
Due to the fact that hummus is an Israel cuisine, Israelis have always been considered the top chefs in
making the 'authentic' hummus. It is said that:
hummus industry in the United States is that its industrial production is primarily
dominated by Israeli-owned companies. Also, the most widely praised “gourmet”
hummus restaurants in American cities seem to be owned by Israeli immigrants.25
To the Israelis, hummus always had and always will be considered an Israeli national dish.

6. So Why Is This Controversy Such A Big Deal?
Food is a major contributor in defining an identity of a sovereign nation as it binds the people as
a region, nation, and family through the physical act of eating. It becomes
a part of one’s identity through processes of social solidification and processes of social
boundary-making. We can understand food as a way of bringing people together through
the social experience of eating with others, and eating the same food as others.26
Such concept has coined the term “culinary nationalism.” Culinary nationalism can be summarized by
the term, “we are what we eat,” and “has always been an important component of broader
nationalism.”27 In fact, E.N. Anderson, professor of Anthropology in University of California,
Riverside contends that “Indeed, [food] may be second only to language as a social communication
system (124).”28 Due to the increasing popularity of hummus around the world nowadays, the act of
demonstrating hummus as either a Lebanese or an Israelis food boosts the national pride of the citizens
and serves as a bonding experience for the descendants distributed all across the globe. Anderson also
contends, “as certain foods become associated with a particular identity (ethnic, social class, political
etc.), it becomes a way by which groups of individuals may distinguish themselves from others.”29
Thus, hummus serves as no longer just a food but as a symbolism of the nation's pride and identity and
the fact that another country is trying to steal a nation's individuality seems like a preposterous idea to
one another. Such is the matter that has gone beyond the limits or boundaries of just arguing about the
food but an issue that extends toward a more profound discussion of cultural identities.
Competition: Has Lebanon and Israel Always BeenCompetitors?
Many believe that the two nations of Lebanon and Israel have always been in an incessant war.
In truth, Lebanon and Israel have not always been hostile to each other. In fact,
with a large Christian minority in an overwhelmingly Muslim region, mercantile and
Westernized, Lebanon was considered the least hostile Arab neighbor to Israel and the
weakest.30

7. However, antagonism began to build up as Lebanon declared that it would hold hands with the
neighboring Arab nations and started to attack Jewish land in 1948. Slowly accumulating over the years,
the feeling of animosity between the Arabs and Israelis finally resulted in the creation of Hezbollah, a
militia and political group in Lebanon:
Following the Islamic revolution in Shi’ite Iran in 1979 and the Israeli invasion of
Lebanon in 1982, a group of Lebanese Shi’ite clerics formed Hezbollah with the goal of
driving Israel from Lebanon and establishing an Islamic state there.31
Initiated by the mission statement that focused on an “establishment of a Shi'ite theocracy in Lebanon,
the destruction of Israel, and the elimination of Western influences from the Middle East,” Hezbollah
has succeeded in disseminating and widening an anti-Israeli feeling throughout Lebanon.32 Hezbollah
has grown to become a powerful political militia in Lebanon and has been using “its prestige to attempt
to topple Lebanon's government.”33 It has been a huge contributor in numerous bombings across the
Israeli border and has kidnapped many Israeli soldiers; either to hold them hostage from their
homelands for a long period of time or to give them back as corpse. In response to Hezbollah's violent
military tactics against the country, Israel has met them with the same, if not more, amount of violence,
only resulting in many casualties of innocent bystanders.
Beyond Just Competition: War And Bloodshed
The severity of the Lebanese-Israeli conflict finally caught the attention of the world, following
the brutal unwarranted attack of Hezbollah on Israel in 2006. The 2006 Lebanon War, or the Second
Lebanon War was when
Israel and Hezbollah engaged in a 33-day war in which Hezbollah fired a hail of rockets
into Israel and the Israelis bombed Lebanese towns, villages and infrastructure but made
little headway in ground operations.34
This incident is marked by a devastating amount of destruction of Israeli and Lebanese infrastructure
and casualties from the Hezbollah katyusha rockets and the requital of the Israeli government with the
same degree of violence, resulting in

8. deaths of over 561 persons during Israeli air and ground strikes, and collected
information about an additional 548 deaths, thus accounting for a total number of 1,109
deaths (approximately 860 civilians and approximately 250 combatants) from the 34- day
conflict.35
Due to the increasing number of civilian casualties that started to peak in the numbers of thousands and
the growing intensity of violence among the two nations, the United Nations passed the United Nations
Resolution 1701 with some probable solutions. Some of these solutions include a “disarmament of all
armed groups in Lebanon,” “the importance of full control of Lebanon by the government of Lebanon,”
and “calls on the international community to take immediate steps to extend its financial and
humanitarian assistance to the Lebanese people.”36 By suggesting practical solutions to the seemingly
bleak reality of the Israeli-Lebanon conflict, the world is reinforcing the reality that this conflict is not a
destined fate, but rather it actually has the capacity to be changed.
What Is The Most Ideal Solution?
While each of these solutions seem practical in their own way, they fail to grapple with the core
predicament that hinders Lebanon and Israel from being at peace with each other, which is the long-
lasting hatred between the two countries. This zealous acrimony is reflected in a few contemporary
examples such as the recent hummus controversy that branches out toward culinary nationalism and the
ruthless military conflicts that only serve to aggravate this feeling of animosity. Even though trying to
alter this firmly rooted denunciation of each other might seem implausible at first, in theory, it is rather
simple. It only requires a stimulating mechanism that will enlighten them of the similarities that they
share as a collective nation: “They're all one and the same. They're one nation. This is the truth. They're
one nation.”37 In Lebanon, organized by Lebanese civil groups, the citizens who have grown tired of
violence have participated in a peace demonstration. They say,
First of all we are here to raise our voice as a third voice against all this violence, against
all what is happening. We are-as the civil society-we are here we are part of the people
who are concerned for the future of the country. We want everyone to take [on] his role
the way they should be, especially at the political level and at the decision making level.

9. If they do what they are supposed to do then it will be much better,” said Lebanese
protester, Adnan Milkey.38
As a matter of fact, the Lebanese and the Israeli citizens are more than ready for peace, some even
yearning for a tranquil night marked by the end of their frightful nightmare in which they have to
shudder every second in fear of unexpected katyusha bombs flying above.
How Does Hummus Play Into This Scenario?
It is an undeniable fact that while hummus stirs up controversy between the Lebanese and
Israeli, it does provide a common food that both countries consider important in their cuisines and can
talk about. In fact, they are both arguing about who should claim hummus, ultimately suggesting the
popularity of the taste of hummus not just in the Middle East but also throughout the entire world.
These two nations are merely blinded by the narrow-minded vengeful perspective that they fail to
acknowledge hummus as actual food; they only see it as another form of weapon that can only have
one “true” ownership and origin: “in normal reality, hummus is hummus, in abnormal reality, hummus
is a weapon.”39 They have been evaluating each other only in military concepts that they even see food
as a weapon to fight with. They are looking at each other with bloodshot eyes, hungry for victory over
this quixotic hummus war. Thus, the hummus war suggests how mere hatred has spilled over in
becoming what is completely irrational—fights and bloodsheds; they are gaining pleasure from
demeaning the other culture over one’s own in an attempt to boost one side’s self esteem by irrational
methods.
However, rather than arguing over the superiority of the ethnic identity surrounding hummus,
the two nations should consider hummus as representing a national identity and should take mutual
pride in the acknowledgment that hummus gained throughout the world. Undeniably they are saying,
we all love the same food. We all love the same food. We relate to the same flavors. This
is hummus, and tahini, and olive oil, and olives and fresh vegetables. 40

10. Hummus is “like a symbol of, of this, you know, utopia of, of living in peace with our neighbors.”41 In
actuality, the Middle East “should share it, not fight over it. None of them can really take, take
responsibility on, on inventing the hummus.”42 The emphasis should be put more on the symbolism of
hummus as a palatable food rather than a source of controversy in prioritizing, thus separating, nations.
Food is supposed to bring people together to join one another around a table, not to rip them apart from
one another.
In short, the controversy over hummus is not a trivial joke to laugh about, but it pertains to a
more serious issue of the long-lasting conflict between Israel and Lebanon. Both Lebanese and Israelis
have tried to get recognition from the world. They have done so by asserting that hummus is each
country’s own. They have even tried competing in making the quantitatively greatest amount of
hummus in the world in trying to prove that one’s own culture is more superior to the other. This
proves that these two countries are in fact, oblivious to their narrow-minded mindsets. However,
“depictions of hummus in the media between 1960 and 1980 tend to see hummus as part of a larger
“Middle Eastern” cuisine, emphasizing its regional origin as opposed to its national origin.”43 In reality,
hummus is only a food, albeit a very important one. Hummus is neither Lebanese nor Israelis but a
general Middle Eastern Arabic food. It emphasizes the cultural identity of the Middle Eastern people.
Hummus should act as a bonding experience between the two nations rather than raise petty objections
of defining one culture over the other because in a nutshell, culture cannot be ranked. However, the
questions to be answered are: Will the hummus controversy ever be resolved? If it does, will it really
help bond the two nations who have been archenemies? The answer to this question is still one to be
questioned and wrestled with.

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