2. FOUR MAGAZINE | PRINT
The
GaGnaire
TwisT
PhotograPhy by Cara tomPkins
Forever pushing culinary boundaries, Pierre Gagnaire’s Twist restaurant, in
the beating heart of the Las Vegas Strip at the Mandarin Oriental hotel, is
bold and eccentric, writes Sophie Cater
T
ill Rabus is flying a powerful flag for emerging
artists who portray the world we live in.
His work is somewhat of an oxymoron;
painting still-lives, landscapes and nudes
with precision and hyperrealism, his works
are stark representations of our modern world, while
his compositional manipulations echo surrealist values.
“However, it seems like I am too down-to-earth to be
surrealist,” Till explains. “I don’t want to talk about my
dreams or imaginary worlds. What interests me is
being able to manipulate objects and putting them in
a situation to create shapes and peculiar atmospheres.”
Till has a penchant for eradicating any human presence
and suggesting that the objects that he portrays are left
behind by human consumption.
Growing up in Switzerland, near Neuchâtel, Till
discovered his passion for art at an exhibition byAmerican
artist Bruce Nauman in Zurich. “I felt very intrigued by
it,” he says. “I think from that day on, I started to become
Swiss artist Till Rabus’ hyperrealist paintings of everyday objects
come with a surrealist twist, Sophie Cater writes
Fictional reality
14
interested in contemporaryart and would travel around to
visit exhibitions in museums, art galleries and biennales.”
Specialising in engraving, Till worked in a watch factory
before working for an educative rainforest association in
Brazil. Upon his return to Switzerland, the young artist
came into fruition.
While being influenced by Swiss painters, sculptors
and visual artists like Fischli/Weiss, Urs Fischer, Roman
Signer and Christoph Büchel,Till also draws on the work of
international artists like Paul McCarthyand Mike Kelley,the
Chapman brothers, ErwinWurm and Sarah Lucas. Similarly
depicting humorous, ironic and sometimes shocking
subjects, Till addresses the topics of waste, sex, life and
death in his paintings by depicting landscapes, nudes and
still lives that he assembles and paints using acrylic and
oil paint. “We are invaded by objects, waste, adverts and
photos on the internet. I sort [through] the waste, I recycle
[it] and from that material I tryto create workthat is out of
the ordinary.” Using hyperrealist techniques, Till’s work »
arT
A LittLe
Off Centre
PhotograPhy by Jean Cazals
Headstrong and resolutely against being pigeonholed,
Isaac McHale is leading London’s exciting wave of young
chefs at The Clove Club, Sophie Cater writes
Penang Island is the ideal destination for every kind of hedonistic traveller,
with its spectacular sceneries, a history like no other, world-renowned cuisine
and culturally diverse capital city George Town, Sophie Cater writes
Theisland
ofcultural
colours
3. The
Gagnaire
Twist
Photography by Cara Tompkins
Forever pushing culinary boundaries, Pierre Gagnaire’s Twist restaurant, in
the beating heart of the Las Vegas Strip at the Mandarin Oriental hotel, is
bold and eccentric, writes Sophie Cater
4. T
wist:“tofollowawindingcourse;anunexpected
revelation.”Twist:PierreGagnaire’sfirstbreak
into the American fine-dining scene. And in
trueGagnairestyle,what’samoreunexpected
andextravagantsettingtostartoffhisAmerican
dreamthaninLasVegas?
As the only fine-dining restaurant in the Sin City that
does not lie in a casino, Twist overlooks the hedonistic
metropolis from the 23rd
floor of the Mandarin Oriental.
“We’reinabeautifulhotelwithanexceptionalview,”Pierre
tells me. His eyes are illuminated and his hands are flying
withexcitementand,despitetheoccasionalyawn(andpolite
apology),heisutterlyenthusedbythisproject.
Opening in 2009, Pierre first brought Pascal Sanchez
overfromhistwo-Michelin-starLondonrestaurantSketch
to become Twist’s first chef de cuisine. Today, Frédéric
Don—also from Sketch—heads up the restaurant kitchen,
whereherecreatesPierre’sFrench-basedcuisine.
Compared to his other restaurants, “it tells more of a
simpleandframedstory,”heexplains.Ratherthanfocusing
on haute cuisine, Twist is a more casual affair. The aim is
78
Pierre Gagnaire
not to show off with over-the-top cuisine, but rather to
provide an intimate, beautiful and elegant haven where
peoplecanescapethehubbubofLasVegastoenjoyquality
food.“Weareluckyenoughtohaveasmalloperationwith
100-120 covers, which allows for quality food,” says Pierre,
explainingthatit’snothautecuisine,norisitcasualdining,
but is something that weaves both together in a culinary
middleground.
Modest,butawareofhisstrengths,Pierredescribeshis
cuisineas“honestandsincere;it’snotamatterofcreatinga
collage of things that I see and collect, it’s really a culinary
storythatIhavebeentellingformanyyears.Andthelength
oftimethatithaslastedprovesthatitisreallysincere.”
Pierre’s cooking places its roots in traditional French
cuisine.However,withvariouslayersofinspiredcreativity
andmoderntechniques,hisdishestransformintosymbols
ofcontemporaryideasandrefinedmasterpieces.Overthe
last 10 years, he has worked with his long-standing friend
and molecular advisor, Hervé This. Analyzing traditional
culinaryconcepts,chemistHervédevelopsthemolecular
side of Pierre’s cuisine, striving to break up traditions and
THIS PAGE Reflecting the
Mandarin Oriental’s clean
and stylish design, Twist
has contemporary features
bursting with bright colors.
5. routines. Despite confessing that he is a bad student of
molecularcuisine,Pierreexplainsthatitisavitalpartofhis
culinarystory,whichseemstobeforeverevolving.
Asayoungman,Pierreembarkedonhisculinarypath
at Paul Bocuse’s restaurant in 1965. The experience had
suchanimpactonhimthat—enamoredbytheworldofthe
culinaryarts—heenrolledinanapprenticeshipatrestaurant
JulietteinLyonin1966.Twoyearslater,hetookhisfirstrole
asacommischefinrestaurantTanteAlice,alsoinLyon.
Since, Pierre has become one of the world’s most
acclaimed chefs. He holds three Michelin stars at his
eponymous Paris-based restaurant, and has a total of
thirteenstarsinternationally.Hehasconqueredbankruptcy,
whichwasdeclaredin1996,lostawardsandregainedthem,
he has set sail for a mammoth amount of projects, while
forever criss-crossing the world, visiting his worldwide
restaurants and developing his menus. His unflappable
abundanceofenergyisastounding.
Takingaliteraltwist,PierrehasbrokenintotheNorth
Americanmarkettocriticalacclaim.“Likeallmyprojects,
Idonotchoosethelocations.TheycometomeandIsayyes
80
Pierre Gagnaire
orno,”Pierrereveals.“BeforeopeningTwist,Iwasthinking
aboutopeningasteakhouse,butTwistisnotasteakhouse.
It’satrueculinaryrestaurant.”
So,howhasPierreintegratedhismodernFrenchcuisine
into Las Vegas’ culinary scene, where all of the city’s fine
dining restaurants and casinos have an unspoken mutual
relationship?Hehasn’t:instead,Pierrehasfocusedhisfood
on the city’s love of meat, and aims to be “part of the city
experience” rather than a destination restaurant. “We’re
notappealingtotheUSmarket;we’reappealingtotheLas
Vegasmarket,”heexplains.“Theyareunrelated.LasVegas
ismeatobsessed.It’saboutbeingquickandefficient;it’snot
anaffectionateplace.”
“The dishes are creative, but not complicated,” Pierre
says. The seasonal menu features dishes that may be
expected on a Gagnaire menu, with highlights including
langoustine, foie gras and sea urchin. However, the menu
alsoincludesdishesthataregearedtowardstheAmerican
palate, including Wagyu beef, venison, and a variety of
steaks. Each dish works with uncomplicated ingredients
andaddstwistsofcreativeflavorsandtechniques.
THIS PAGE Twist finds a
happy medium between
fine and casual dining.
6. “It’s a culinary story that I have been telling for many
years. And the length of time that it has lasted proves
that it is really sincere.”
7. AtTwist,PierreisinthehandsofthemightyMandarin
Oriental group, with whom he also works at his two-
Michelin-star Hong Kong restaurant, Pierre. “They are
bound to the idea of quality,” he sings their praises, while
lettingslipthathewouldbedelightedtodomorewiththem.
“I think that more than others, the Mandarin Oriental is
asociété d’excellenceandhasapoignantculinarystamp.”
With 11 restaurants to juggle around the world, Pierre
ensuresthattheyaretohisstandardbybeingverypersonally
involved in all the projects and people. “I find honor in
havinggreatrelationshipswithallmychefs.Consequently
we manage to have a very high standard… I consider my
employeestobemychildren.Weareonefamily.”
Although Pierre first embarked on opening his own
restaurants as a soloist, he now observes his projects
holistically, swooping in when necessary. “I was the
conductor and the stage director at the same time. Today,
IamabletostepbackandexplainwhatIwantinaclearerway.
Ihavebeenabletobepartofthewholestoryandconstruct
it from A to Z. I have become the actor.” This step back
has allowed him to gain perspective on his projects and
84
Pierre Gagnaire
delegatetohisteamofassiduouschefs.“Theycometosee
me and with their attitude they give me the desire to work
withthem.Theyworkwithme,andIconstantlytrytogive
them something. It’s an intellectual exchange. People are
veryloyaltome.”
Heralded for his creative brilliance, Pierre surrounds
himselfwitheccentricandpassionatepeopleandinventive
inspiration. At Sketch, for example, he works with artistic
restaurateur Mourad Mazouz, who has become a close
friendandanadvisor.“Wehaveworkedtogetherfor11years
nowandwe’veneverhadanargument.Wegetonwithour
own work, respecting each other, and it works.” Mourad
develops the ever-changing artist exhibition and creative
side of Sketch. Pierre is to showcase his surrealist cuisine
at Sketch in an upcoming book with food photographer
JeanCazals.Theever-changingcreativityandinnovation
that occurs at his London-based restaurant, Sketch, will
bemadepermanent.
At the age of 64 and having successfully stormed the
American scene as a self-confessed actor in a creative
culinaryfilm,IwonderwhatPierre’snexttwistwillbe.
THIS PAGE Chef de cuisine
Pascal Sanchez replicates
Pierre’s cuisine at Twist.
8. The sea
01/
/02Roasted tomato “provencal”
Seasonal ice cream trio
03/
/04Heering cherry parfait
Pierre’s
FOURDishes
Scale
28%
Scan this code for Pierre Gagnaire’s recipes or go to www.four-magazine.com/chefs/pierre-gagnaire
12. A Little
Off Centre
Photography by Jean Cazals
Headstrong and resolutely against being pigeonholed,
Isaac McHale is leading London’s exciting wave of young
chefs at The Clove Club, Sophie Cater writes
13. A
s I walk into what was Shoreditch’s old
Town Hall—now The Clove Club—Isaac
is certainly staying true to his ethos of not
wantingtobepigeonholed:heisstandingon
topofhispass,onehandonhishipandthe
otherbrandishingasaw.Histeamisbusyworkingaround
himandheisstaringoutofoneoftherestaurant’senormous
windows. He may be posing for the photo shoot, but for a
momentit’sabelievablesituation.Isaacexudesanethereal,
thoughtfulqualitythatcontrastswithabsolutepassionand
resolutedetermination.
“My culinary identity is the story of my upbringing,”
Isaacbegins.BorninScotland’sOrkneyIslands,hegrewup
in Glasgow where his culinary passion began. He became
intrigued by the city’s popular Indian cuisine; specifically
adishcalledchickenpakora—“aNorthernIndianPakistani
snack”. Finding out how to cook the pakora kick-started
Isaac’sculinarylife.“Ilikedlearninganditwasn’tsomething
IknewhowtodosoItaughtmyself,readloadsofbooksand
went to the local cash-and-carry and learned the Indian
names of all the spices. I made pakora and other Indian
dishes, and then got into Chinese and South-East Asian
[cuisine].” This inquisitive nature still resides with Isaac
andisoneofthemaininfluencesonhiscuisinetoday.
below The Clove Club
resides in what was
Shoreditch’s old Town Hall.
48
Isaac McHale
Hisloveoffoodcontinuedtodevelopthroughschooland
university.Unbeknowntohispeersandteachers,hewould
wanderthroughtheschooldaywithasharpchef ’sknifein
his bag, ready for his after-school restaurant jobs. “It was
muchsharperthanalltheotherchefs’knives,”hechortles.
Isaac explains that, although there wasn’t a strong
sense of national culinary identity in inner city Glasgow
in the eighties, while he was growing up, ingredients like
lemongrassandlimeswerebecomingincreasinglyavailable.
Byworkinginkitchens,readingcookbooks,watchingTV
programmesandmakingthemostoftheincreasingvariety
of ingredients, Isaac learnt about the cuisines that were
invogue.
Having completed his first year of food chemistry at
university,hetookthedecisiontostopstudyingandembark
on a full-time culinary career in restaurants. His love of
Japanese cuisine took him to Sydney, where he planned
to gain experience at Tetsuya’s. Instead, he found himself
atMarquebyMarkBestandamongthelaunchingteamat
Four in Hand. “I had a great time there,” he tells me. “The
overall standard of food and overall interest in food was
much,muchhigherthanGlasgow.”
Afterayear,IsaacreturnedtotheUKtobeginworking
withTomAikensathiseponymousrestaurant, andthen »
“I’m just trying to do my thing that reflects
my life and my journey.”
14. « with Brett Graham at The Ledbury, where he spent six
years.HealsogainedexperiencewithRenéRedzepiatNoma.
Isaac remembers: “More than anything else it was [great
to see] the way they worked [at Noma], and their attitude
to each other and to the food. It changed my perception of
whatcouldconstituteadish.”
Carvinghisownculinarypath,helaunchedtheYoung
Turks,agroupcomprisedofIsaacandJamesLowe(owner
andheadchefofLyle’s).TheduomovedthroughLondon’s
coolest pop-up kitchens, including Nuno Mendes’ Loft
ProjectandTheTenBells,becomingmoreandmorepopular
fortheirproduce-focusedcuisine.WhenIaskedIsaacabout
hisexperienceoftheYoungTurks,Igotthefeelingthathe
waswearyofdiscussingit,testamenttoquitehowmuchof
a buzz it created. “I think both me and James need to talk
aboutgoingforwards,insteadoffocusingonwhathappened
[in the past],” he says firmly. “It was fun at the time and it’s
importantforustodevelopourownidentitiesnow.”
Moving on, Isaac opened The Clove Club just over
two years ago to a ricochet of excitement. But it’s not only
London that fell head over heels with his restaurant. “We
have a lot of guests recommended by Noma to come here,
which is a great honour,” Isaac tells me. “We have a lot of
recommendationsfromaroundtheworld.”
above The Clove Club’s
bar is adorned with cured
hams and hip mixologists.
The light-filled restaurant
brings touches of nature
to the minimal décor.
50
Isaac McHale
Hiscuisineisrenownedforitshigh-qualityingredients,
which range from the homemade and traditional to the
unusual and rare. “I’m just trying to do my thing that
reflects my life and my journey,” he says. As a product of
hisexperiencesandhisloveoflearning,Isaac’sfoodisfull
offlavourcombinationsthatignitecontradictoryideas:they
titillatefamiliarmemoriesandsetnewonesonfire.“Iliketo
dofoodwhichisfamiliar,whichmakessensebutispushed
a little off centre. Combinations that make sense: it might
be tomato and goat’s cheese, but I might use goat’s cheese
graniteoranicedgoatscheesesoup.Ortakeaturbotwith
peasandmorelsthatyoumayseeinathree-Michelin-star
restaurantinFrance,andserveitwithacinnamonandcurry
leaffoam.”Whatmaybeperceivedastraditionaldrycured
oldspotporkispairedwithsouthIndianspices,including
lemongrass and kaffir lime leaf. However, some of Isaac’s
dishesremaintruetowhatisdeemedas‘traditional’:blood
pudding,Braeburnappleandchicoryrelish.“I’mnottrying
to fit into being ‘modern,’ British or Nordic,” he explains.
“I want to keep developing the food here. I think we’re
operating at a high level, but there’s a lot to do to make it
alotbetter.”
Diningintherestaurantinvolveschoosingfromarange
ofsetmenus:atlunch,athree-orfive-coursemenuorfor»
15.
16. « dinner, a five-course menu or extended menu, with the
option of a wine pairing is on offer. “We have such a small
kitchensothesetmenuallowsustoservepeopledishesthat
theymightnothavechosenifwerananàlacartemenu.It
makesforafarmoreinterestingmealforpeople.”Working
withavailable,freshingredientsandflavourinspirations,the
menuisamixofnewandsignaturedishes.Isaac’swonderful
Yorkshire suckling pig with south Indian spices (page 60)
and the Amalfi lemonade and Sarawak pepper ice cream
dessertarenear-staples.
Constantlyonthelookoutfornewthingstolearn,there
isalotthatIsaacwantstoworkon.Notonlyintermsofhis
cuisine, but the entire experience. Isaac and his business
partners, Daniel Willis and Jonny Smith, took over what
used to be Shoreditch Town Hall and transformed it into
a space that comprises the restaurant and bar, with high
ceilings and white walls that are washed with streaming
lightfromthecolossalwindows.Darkwood,leather,vintage
chairsandhanginghams,sausagesandpeppersalami.“We
wereveryluckytofindthisbuilding,butlikeeverythingit
has its faults,” Isaac says. “This is a listed building so it’s a
long process. We opened with not very much money and
weareslowlybeingableto[develop].Ayearandahalfinwe
boughtnicecutleryfromEnglishsilversmithDavidMellor,
54
Isaac McHale
wecouldn’taffordcurtainsorblinds,sohopefullywe’llget
themsoon.We’rebuildingitintowhatwewantbutcouldn’t
[affordto]dofromthestart.”
Both the restaurant and bar have a distinctly rustic
industrialquality,balancingafreshandon-trendvibrancy
withahomelyandrelaxedfeeling.“Weareluckyinthatwe
havearestaurantandabar,”Isaacsays.Havingbothoptions
opens The Clove Club up to a larger audience and allows
theexperiencetobewhatevertheguestswant.Thebar,at
thecentreofthefirstroomthatguestswalkinto,isadorned
withcuredhamsandbottles.Abow-tie-cladbarmanshakes
cocktails,pullspintsandchatsjoviallywitheveryone.The
àlacartemenufeaturesflavourfuldisheslikethesignature
buttermilkfriedchicken,sprinkledwithpinesalt(page62),
orwhatIsaacconsidersthebestdishonthemenu:theraw
Orkney scallop with hazelnut, clementine and Wiltshire
truffle(page58).
Admittingthathe’dlikeTheCloveClubtobeoneofthe
bestrestaurantsintheworld—therestaurantisclimbingthe
World’s 50 Best Restaurant list, rising from 87th
in 2014 to
55th
thisyear—Isaacisresoluteindoingithisway.“Toquote
theFrenchimpressionistpainterPierreBonnard,‘Idonot
wish to belong to any school, I just want to do something
that’spersonaltomyself.’”
previous pages Morels;
a mini dress of pork.
below Smoked
kielbasa sausages.
21. Penang Island is the ideal destination for every kind of hedonistic traveller,
with its spectacular sceneries, a history like no other, world-renowned cuisine
and culturally diverse capital city George Town, Sophie Cater writes
Theisland
ofcultural
colours
22. B
etween the calm blue Straits of Malacca and
Penang’scloud-toppedinlandmountains,the
high rises and skyscrapers of George Town,
Penang’scapitalcity,interjectgrand,colonial
buildings, ornate mosques, temples and clan
houses. Since UNESCO deemed George Town a World
HeritageSitein2008,theislandhasbeenrisingasacultural
metropolis, with a polished foodie scene, rich culture and
superbarchitecture.
Standing at the crossroads of Asia’s major civilisations,
Penang is a multicultural haven with a complex history.
Under Britain’s colonial rule from 1786 to 1957, the island
became an immigration hub with people coming from
mainland Malaysia, China, India and Europe. Today, the
island stands as a centre of trade and a hedonistic magnet
fornationalandinternationalvisitors.
WhilevisitingGeorgeTown,thecoast-frontEastern&
Oriental Hotel (E&O) is a perfect resting point. The hotel
capturesPenang’sdiverseheritageandcosmopolitanfuture,
with its colonial architecture that dates back to 1884 and
modern luxury amenities. The suites, which either give
ontothecityortheStraitofMalacca,arespaciouswithlarge
beds, balconies, stand-alone baths, waterfall showers and
round-the-clockbutlerservice.
However,ifyoufancyamorecity-centrestay,theheritage
boutiqueSevenTerraceshotelorthemodernandstylishG
HotelKelawaiareideal.Boasting18suiteswithbespokedécor,
thebeautyofSevenTerracesliesinthedetails.Oncearowof
seven19th
-centuryAnglo-Chineseterraces,thehotel’sgilded
doors,open-airgranitecourtyardandtessellatedwalkways
are a wink to traditional Chinese design. Contrastingly, G
Hotel reflects the modern architecture and design that is
prevailinginPenang.Theexteriorboastsarainbow-coloured
LEDfaçade,whiletheinterior’schicdécorcombinesbespoke
previous page The
spectacular views
over Penang give onto
mainland Malaysia.
above Eastern and
Oriental Hotel embodies
Penang’s colonial history
and modern elegance.
below G Hotel’s rooftop
infinity pool, immersed in
the island’s nature.
120
TRAVEL
furniture with contemporary architecture. The choice of
208 rooms range from Deluxe rooms to Premier Suites, all
ofwhichhaveuniquefeaturesandfantasticviews.
Embarkingonthefirstofanever-endingamountofmeals
inPenang,IheadedtoE&O’sSarkiesbuffet.“WeMalaysians
liketoeat.Weareneverfull,”mytourguidefromDiscovery
OverlandHolidaystellsmewithanexpectantsmile.What
began as a small post-flight bite quickly escalates into an
hour-longculinarydelight:thisbecametheunderlyingstory
of the trip. With a loosened belt, I pressed on into George
Town’sWorldHeritageSite.
From E&O, I wandered around the waterfront and
intothecapital’sfascinatinghistoricalcentre.Headingeast
along the coast became a where’s where of the Penang’s
colonialhistory,passingthewhitewashedgrandioseTown
and City Halls, the Fort Cornwallis, the Queen Victoria »
23. « Memorial Clock Tower—tilted as a consequence of
bombinginWWII—andtheBousteadandGermanmerchant
houses. Weaving through the city’s perma-traffic jam, the
Clan Jetties emerged. Dominated by the most populated
Chew Jetty, buzzing with over 200 families and 70 houses,
food and bric-a-brac stalls, tourists and traders, each Jetty
is occupied by the descendants of Chinese settlers who
separatedtheircommunitiesaccordingtotheirsurnames.
Today,thepropertypricesarerisingatahugeratebecause
ofthejetties’greatcity-centrelocation.
Headingawayfromtheseaandintothecharmingmaze
ofGeorgeTown’sheritagestreets,anarrayofmulti-cultural
sitespopupateveryturn,fromSt.George’sChurch,thefirst
AnglicanChurchinSoutheastAsia,tobeautifullyadorned
mosques and temples, and ancient homes like The Blue
Mansion, also known as the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion.
Despite the locals wearing their pride for their traditional
culture on their sleeves, old buildings are adorned with
beautifulgraffiti,trendycaféslikeTheAlleyboastwestern
coffees, artsy magazines and quick wi-fi. Modern features
peppertheheritagecity.
Withfoodforeveronmymind,Iamofferedgoodnews:
locals deem five meals a day the norm. It’s no wonder the
above St George’s Church
(left) stands at the entrance
of George Town’s heritage
streets and the Queen
Victoria Memorial Clock
Tower (right) was built
in 1897 to celebrate her
Golden Jubilee.
Right The scents from
Penang’s street markets’
diverse cuisine: from Thai
to Indian and Chinese
flavours.
below Cheong Fatt Tze
Mansion shows off why
it’s also known as The
Blue Mansion.
122
TRAVEL
island has been said to have the finest street food in Asia.
GeorgeTownisfloodedwithfoodstallsthatlinenearlyevery
street. The steam from Penang assam laksa billows above
a crowd’s head, hungry locals crouch on stalls next to the
quickestnoodle-makerinthecity,thesmellofnasi kandar
curries lingers on a street corner, a food hall buzzes with
busy locals and waiters carrying platters of fresh seafood.
AndIsalivate,slurpandchompwitheachandeveryoneof
them.WithPenang’svibrantmixofcultures,thelocalcuisine
is hard to unify under one umbrella. It is an eclectic mix of
Thai,IndianandChineseflavours,which,whencombined
offersnyonyacuisine.
Inthemornings,from6-10am,ChowrastaMarket(also
calledtheWetMarket),whichdatesbacktothe1800s,displays
fresh produce, traditional sweets and goods in the market
buildingandthesurroundingroads.Bustlingwithlocalsand
tourists,it’srecommendedtoarriveearlyandeatbreakfast
with the locals, including laksa, soft-boiled eggs (which
aren’t boiled, instead rather raw and gloopy) and a rocket-
fuel strong coffee. During the day, George Town’s China
Town and Little India dominate the areas around Lebuh
Chulia,LebuhStewart,LebuhCampbellandMarketStreet»
25. T
ill Rabus is flying a powerful flag for emerging
artists who portray the world we live in.
His work is somewhat of an oxymoron;
painting still-lives, landscapes and nudes
with precision and hyperrealism, his works
are stark representations of our modern world, while
his compositional manipulations echo surrealist values.
“However, it seems like I am too down-to-earth to be
surrealist,” Till explains. “I don’t want to talk about my
dreams or imaginary worlds. What interests me is
being able to manipulate objects and putting them in
a situation to create shapes and peculiar atmospheres.”
Till has a penchant for eradicating any human presence
and suggesting that the objects that he portrays are left
behind by human consumption.
Growing up in Switzerland, near Neuchâtel, Till
discovered his passion for art at an exhibition byAmerican
artist Bruce Nauman in Zurich. “I felt very intrigued by
it,” he says. “I think from that day on, I started to become
Swiss artist Till Rabus’ hyperrealist paintings of everyday objects
come with a surrealist twist, Sophie Cater writes
Fictional reality
14
interested in contemporaryart and would travel around to
visit exhibitions in museums, art galleries and biennales.”
Specialising in engraving, Till worked in a watch factory
before working for an educative rainforest association in
Brazil. Upon his return to Switzerland, the young artist
came into fruition.
While being influenced by Swiss painters, sculptors
and visual artists like Fischli/Weiss, Urs Fischer, Roman
Signer and Christoph Büchel,Till also draws on the work of
international artists like Paul McCarthyand Mike Kelley,the
Chapman brothers, ErwinWurm and Sarah Lucas. Similarly
depicting humorous, ironic and sometimes shocking
subjects, Till addresses the topics of waste, sex, life and
death in his paintings by depicting landscapes, nudes and
still lives that he assembles and paints using acrylic and
oil paint. “We are invaded by objects, waste, adverts and
photos on the internet. I sort [through] the waste, I recycle
[it] and from that material I tryto create workthat is out of
the ordinary.” Using hyperrealist techniques, Till’s work »
art
26.
27. 18
art
cloud-peppered blue sky set the background.
On the other hand, some of his paintings are more
overtly realist and painted from life. The Arcimburger
n°1 painting depicts a McDonald’s meal and references
the artist Arcimboldo who painted portraits composed
of vegetables and plants; The Tall Blond has a photo-like
quality laced with dark humour, showing an abandoned
car seat in an ominous forest, which has been dressed up
with a wig and coat; Scarecrow n°1 uses recycled objects
and rags to make a scary human-like scarecrow. Using
acrylic as a base, Till creates layers with oil paint with
smooth lines and precise tones, giving the paintings a 3D
appearance. The effect leaves you wondering whether it
really is a painting.
Today, you can find Till’s work mainly around Europe;
in the Aeroplastics contemporary art gallery in Brussels
and in the Lange + Pult art gallery in Zurich. In autumn he
will be presenting a range of paintings in the showroom
of the Michael Haas art gallery in Berlin.
« reflects his perception oftheworld in all its over-indulgent,
eccentric and beautiful detail.
His paintings propose a dichotomy between the
surrealistandrealistworld.Alwayspaintinginahyperrealist
wayallows himto combine real objectswithfictional scenes.
His Patchwork Hôtel series depicts bundles of sexualised
female limbs. The images are created by collating images
of the same model from lads’ magazines on top of the
unaltered background. The absurd setting is painted with
a hyperrealist style, almost ridiculing the extreme nature
of the lads’ magazines and female objectification.
Tillfinds manyofhis objectsto depict in his paintings by
riflingthrough discarded rubbish.Withthe aim ofdepicting
a fantastic scene with everyday objects, Camping Lunch
n°3 takes a surrealist approach and a Salvador Dali-esque
quality; baguettes transform into monsters with features
made of gherkins, popcorn, frankfurters, mustard and
lettuce, while a splatter of ketchup on a sausage and a
takeaway box make up the foreground. A picnic table and
opening pages Rabus
recycles rubbish in The Tall
Blond and Scarecrow n°1 to
depict humans.
previous page
Arcimburger n°1 honours
Italian artist Arcimboldo’s
portraits composed of
vegetables and plants.
this page Camping Lunch
n°3 brings a dull moment to
life at a picnic table.
28. FOUR Magazine | Online
The Noble
Sauce KiNg
Tall, dark and unbelievably talented, Yannick Alléno is a three
Michelin star chef, and a force to be reckoned with. Sophie Cater meets
him to discuss what his showering of stars and awards and his Alléno
Empire has culminated in…
Rebel
Robuchon
A legend among legends, Joël Robuchon tells Sophie Cater about his ex-
traordinary culinary career, his ever evolving new
plans and reveals his rebellious side
FRESH PICKSSophie Cater gives you FOUR of the newest restaurants around the world that
you really should get yourself to…
29. Rebel
Robuchon
A legend among legends, Joël Robuchon tells Sophie Cater about his ex-
traordinary culinary career, his ever evolving new
plans and reveals his rebellious side
30. W
hileI’mtuckingintomyfourthcourseofpuredelightatL’AtelierdeJoëlRobuchoninLondon,
thelegendhimselfappearsfromaroundthecornerofthecounterbarwithhistrustybrigadeof
consultantsandculinarycompanionsintow.Smallinstaturebutbiginsmilesandwarmth,Joël
Robuchonbeamsupatme.Heisvisitinghisrestauranttosewtheseedsofhisever-developing
menuandculinarydirectionwiththeteamoverhere.HeadedupbyexecutivechefXavierBoyer,
the restaurant is one of Joël’s twelve Atelier restaurants that are scattered around the world. Our rendezvous isn’t
untillater,butJoëlismakingtherounds,passingfromtabletotable,greetingnewguestsandwelcomingreturning
customerswithkissesandlaughs.
Eight courses of decadence down–including an indulgent conveyor belt of caviar, truffles, black cod, langoustine, quail,
champagne and parfaits–I turn away from the herb-covered restaurant wall and cosmopolitan décor, to the first floor.
Here, the walls are covered entirely in black and white checks and oversized black apples are dotted around. But we don’t
stop here: we go up even higher to Le Salon de Joël Robuchon bar, which has a terrace onto London’s central skyline and
gets going by night. With a bit of quiet upon us, I join his team and sit around Joël and, leaning in we are all ears and eyes
on the legend who begins his tale…
In 1968, France was experiencing social uproar, and Joël Robuchon was roaring with it and meeting people who
would influence and push him to become the chef he is today. As a young teenager, he had been following his dream of be-
coming a Catholic priest, studying at a specialised school until his parents could no longer afford the fees. Having enjoyed
helping the nuns prepare food at school, he decided to plunge into culinary studies. “I was lucky because I worked with a
lot of quality chefs who were passionate and allowed me to discover the culinary world.” It was during the whirlwind of the
1968 revolt that he met some friends who would give him a well-needed push to follow his culinary career with passion
and love. “They encouraged me to do cooking competitions and inspired me to follow this path. I was lucky enough to
have friends who were doing the right thing.”
Working his way up through national competitions, he started
working at Concorde Lafayette, overlooking two to three thousand
covers every day with a team of 90 and multiple kitchens. However,
Joël’s rebellious side came out to play again: “It was great to learn, but
I wanted to do the opposite of what everyone was doing and to have
my own restaurant.” He jumped at the opportunity to become the
Food and Beverage manager at hotel Nikko in Paris. This step would
lead him to earn 28 Michelin stars over the course of his extensive
career and a showering of accolades, including the prestigious Meilleur
Ouvrier de France in 1976 and Chef of the Century by Gault Millau in
1989. However, having seen many of his colleagues suffer from stress
and health issues, he decided to retire at 50. “I had been [cooking]
since I was 15 and I’d never seen the mountain under the snow,” Joël
explains.
But as only a dedicated hard worker can experience, he was struck
with an epiphany in a moment of retirement heaven. Considering the
demonic reputations of chefs and their kitchens, Joël and his team of
trusty chefs decided to “re-interpret [and combine welcoming] tapas
bars and Japanese sushi bars where food is made in front of people”.
But there was another string to his revolutionary bow. “Back then,
all chefs were dressed in white so I wanted the staff to be dressed in
black” to blend into the carefully chosen colour scheme of black and
red; “black for night, red for day.” It was a revolutionary idea, which
Joël’s Ateliers still revolve around today.
Still pushing the boundaries today at the age of 70, Joël has
recently turned his attention to moving his cuisine away from mo-
lecular cuisine, which he deems dangerous to the health, and into
a new wave of healthy cooking or “wellness cuisine”. He explains,
“with food I think we can help [people in ill health] a lot. It’s about
focusing on combinations of foods. In each restaurant, I am trying
to explore wellness cuisine, especially vegetarian cuisine, with ex-
perts. Although I understand that our menus must be right for our
clients, I would like to develop some menus that explore the well-
ness gastronomy more. It’s something that’s a bit different, which is
just as high quality but appeals to a different audience. Excellence is
always hard, and demands hard work and a lot of understanding.”
Hard work is certainly not something that Joël is shy of. Earlier
this year, he opened 2 restaurants in Bordeaux and Bangkok, there
are plans for New York, Shanghai, Geneva and Canada in the near
future, while his heart is also set on Mumbai. Although these plans
are ideas in the making, there’s one thing you can be sure of about
all of them: they’ll all have a streak of the Rebel Robuchon. “If
tomorrow someone told me the trend was blue, I would make mine
red,” he chuckles. “I don’t follow the fashion.”
31. The Noble
Sauce King
Tall, dark and unbelievably talented, Yannick Alléno is a three
Michelin star chef, and a force to be reckoned with. Sophie Cater meets
him to discuss what his showering of stars and awards and his Alléno
Empire has culminated in…
32. It was breakfast at The London Edition Hotel and
exuding a serene nobility in amongst the higher ech-
elons of London’s society was Yannick Alléno. Royalty
in amongst the exclusive circle of the world’s greatest
chefs, Chef Alléno has reason to stand tall. He is at
the helm of over a dozen restaurants that form Le
Groupe Alléno, and bearer of a never-ending stream
of accolades, including a culmination of five Michelin
stars.
Alléno’s name has been popping up in recent culi-
nary news, giving us snapshots of him embarking on
yet another venture. So far this year he has launched
a pop-up in L’orient Express, Paris, partnered with
Champagne giants Moët & Chandon to create Le &
restaurant, launched a book entitled “Sauces : Réfléx-
ions d’un Cuisinier”, and has received the title of ‘Best
Author & Chef’ by the Gourmand Awards.
Stretching his skills and time between so many
different endeavours, I admit that I expected Chef
Alléno to be the bearer of great bags, encasing his
wisdom tiredly. Instead, I met a man with an abun-
dance of passion, drive and energy, and a serene smile
that would be enough to make anybody swoon.
“Since I was eight I wanted to do this job”, Chef
Alléno told me. “I think I was blessed with something.
My parents owned bistros in the outskirts of Paris, so I
was brought up in quite a culinary-rich environment.”
Following his parents’ path, Yannick holds his two
Terroir Parisien restaurants in Paris close to his heart,
showcasing his dominance of traditional cuisine on
which he bases his illustrious Nouvelle Cuisine.
While the likes of two Michelin star 1947, Le Cheval
Blanc in Courchevel demonstrates his passion for
experiential, modern cuisine, his other restaurants vali-
date the flexibility of his culinary skills and knowledge.
“S.T.A.Y is a restaurant that is inspired by travelling,” he
explains while brushing off the irony. “La Grande Table
Marocaine, at the Hotel Royal Manour, is a culmination
of 5 years’ work.” Aiming for the acknowledgement of
Moroccan food as part of the world’s haute cuisine, his
three Marrakesh-based restaurants are now part of the
Grand Tables du Monde thanks to rigorous research
and respect for the country’s diverse native cuisines.
Research and respect are at the forefront of Yan-
nick’s conceptualisation and the successful fruition of
his restaurants. Starting with an idea, he builds teams
around a respective theme and cuisine, researching how
best to convey what he wants with precision and flair.
Describing the process behind 1947, Le Cheval Blanc
he tells me that he wanted a restaurant where every-
33. one’s energy – the guests, the waiters, the sommelier
– were present. You enter through a “decompression
chamber” to rid yourself of any burden before eating
and experiencing the subsequent culinary journey.
Pushing the boundaries, he created a meal sequence
that was apart from the norm; “we ask the guests to
choose their main meal according to what we’ve got
in the kitchen and depending on what they like, and
then we build the menu with them, pointing them in
the right direction. I want to give guests unique tastes
and experiences that they’ve never had the opportu-
nity to have.”
Aiming to delve into traditional ideas and culinary
techniques, and manipulate them to create new re-
sults, Yannick seems slightly obsessed with one par-
ticular topic throughout our meeting: sauces. It is no
wonder, considering it has been a point of laborious
research for the last two years, culminating in a book
dedicated precisely to making extraordinary sauces.
Enlightened by his findings, he tells me that he
thinks that “a sauce is really the only thing that allows
ingredients to be united on a plate. Working without
sauces has led many to create one-dimensional dish-
es with single products.” Yannick is reinventing this
monotonous tradition and bringing back the sauce in
all its glory into the modern gastronomic world.
“I was brought up with the ideas of doing things
well, with respect for what we had”, Yannick says
explaining how he became so embroiled with mak-
ing the perfect sauce. Thinking outside the norm,
he embarked on a road of temperature-controlled
extraction and reduction to bring out unique flavours
that would form the basis of his dishes. Add a little
fermentation, and Yannick has me on the edge of
my seat, drooling slightly as he describes one of his
recent dishes: “earlier this year we served a three-
staged dish with a consommé of corn on a reduced
duck extraction, on a bed of duck fat and celery. It was
wonderful!”
So what is the redeeming culinary philosophy of
a chef who has his fingers in so many exquisite pies?
Of course. “It’s important to know traditional cuisine,
but it’s vital to veer away from it. You need culture to
make a dish, but with the work that we’re doing we’re
going in the opposite direction. We look at things
from a different perspective. We’ve found so much
potential, and we’re not even nearly reaching it.”
Modesty, I assure you is a sign of brilliant nobility.
richesse saucière effervescence cameline saveurs émotion jus sauce Robert liaison onctuosité réduction
vivacité coulis béchamel précision textures émulsions goût béarnaise velouté salinité beurre nantais
assemblage Escoffier puissance sauce mère quintessence espagnole intensité dosage mirepoix
déclinaison vinaigrette hollandaise concentration soubise verjus émulsion sauce mayonnaise harmonie
salsa épices fraîcheur bouquet sel précision sauce La Varenne goût roux patrimoine aromates herbes
sauce verte palais équilibre cuisson extraction champ créatif cuisine moderne tomate fermentation La
Chapelle fond oxydation arômes dodine Carême composition sapidité assemblage Escoffier puissance
sauce mère quintessence espagnole intensité dosage mirepoix déclinaison vinaigrette hollandaise
concentration soubise verjus émulsion sauce mayonnaise harmonie salsa épices fraîcheur bouquet sel
précision sauce La Varenne goût roux patrimoine aromates herbes sauce verte palais équilibre cuisson
extraction champ créatif cuisine moderne tomate fermentation La Chapelle fond oxydation arômes dodine
Carême composition sapidité richesse saucière effervescence cameline saveurs émotion jus sauce
Robert liaison onctuosité réduction vivacité coulis béchamel précision textures émulsions goût béarnaise
velouté salinité beurre nantais harmonie salsa épices fraîcheur bouquet sel précision sauce La Varenne
goût roux patrimoine aromates herbes sauce verte palais équilibre cuisson extraction champ créatif
cuisine moderne tomate fermentation La Chapelle fond oxydation arômes dodine Carême composition
sapidité assemblage Escoffier puissance sauce mère quintessence espagnole intensité dosage mirepoix
déclinaison vinaigrette hollandaise concentration soubise verjus émulsion sauce mayonnaise harmonie
salsa épices La Chapelle fond oxydation arômes dodine Carême composition sapidité richesse saucière
effervescence cameline saveurs émotion jus sauce Robert liaison onctuosité réduction vivacité coulis
béchamel précision textures émulsions goût béarnaise velouté salinité beurre nantais harmonie salsa
épices fraîcheur bouquet sel précision sauce La Varenne goût roux patrimoine aromates herbes sauce
verte palais équilibre cuisson extraction salsa épices fraîcheur bouquet sel précision sauce La Varenne
goût roux patrimoine aromates herbes sauce verte palais équilibre cuisson extraction champ créatif
cuisine moderne tomate fermentation La Chapelle fond oxydation arômes dodine Carême composition
sapidité assemblage Escoffier puissance sauce mère quintessence espagnole intensité dosage mirepoix
déclinaison vinaigrette hollandaise concentration soubise verjus émulsion sauce mayonnaise harmonie
salsa épices fraîcheur bouquet sel précision sauce La Varenne goût roux patrimoine aromates herbes
sauce verte palais équilibre cuisson extraction champ créatif cuisine moderne tomate fermentation La
Chapelle fond oxydation arômes dodine Carême composition sapidité richesse saucière effervescence
cameline saveurs émotion jus sauce Robert liaison onctuosité réduction vivacité coulis béchamel coulis
béchamel précision textures émulsions goût béarnaise velouté salinité beurre nantais assemblage
Escoffierpuissancesaucemèrequintessenceespagnoleintensitédosagemirepoixdéclinaisonvinaigrette
hollandaise concentration soubise verjus émulsion sauce mayonnaise harmonie salsa épices fraîcheur
bouquetselprécisionsauceLaVarennegoûtrouxpatrimoinearomatesherbessaucevertepalaiséquilibre
cuisson extraction champ créatif cuisine moderne tomate fermentation La Chapelle fond oxydation
arômes dodine Carême composition sapidité assemblage Escoffier puissance sauce mère quintessence
espagnole intensité dosage mirepoix déclinaison vinaigrette hollandaise concentration soubise verjus
émulsion sauce mayonnaise harmonie salsa épices fraîcheur bouquet sel précision sauce La Varenne goût
roux patrimoine aromates herbes sauce verte palais équilibre cuisson extraction champ créatif cuisine
moderne tomate fermentation La Chapelle fond oxydation arômes dodine Carême composition sapidité
richesse saucière effervescence cameline saveurs émotion jus sauce Robert liaison onctuosité réduction
YANNICK ALLÉNO
VINCENT BRENOT
RÉFLEXIONSD’UNCUISINIER
richesse saucière effervescence cameline saveurs émotion jus sauce Robert liaison onctuosité réduction
vivacité coulis béchamel précision textures émulsions goût béarnaise velouté salinité beurre nantais
assemblage Escoffier puissance sauce mère quintessence espagnole intensité dosage mirepoix
déclinaison vinaigrette hollandaise concentration soubise verjus émulsion sauce mayonnaise harmonie
salsa épices fraîcheur bouquet sel précision sauce La Varenne goût roux patrimoine aromates herbes
sauce verte palais équilibre cuisson extraction champ créatif cuisine moderne tomate fermentation La
Chapelle fond oxydation arômes dodine Carême composition sapidité assemblage Escoffier puissance
sauce mère quintessence espagnole intensité dosage mirepoix déclinaison vinaigrette hollandaise
concentration soubise verjus émulsion sauce mayonnaise harmonie salsa épices fraîcheur bouquet sel
précision sauce La Varenne goût roux patrimoine aromates herbes sauce verte palais équilibre cuisson
extraction champ créatif cuisine moderne tomate fermentation La Chapelle fond oxydation arômes dodine
Carême composition sapidité richesse saucière effervescence cameline saveurs émotion jus sauce
Robert liaison onctuosité réduction vivacité coulis béchamel précision textures émulsions goût béarnaise
velouté salinité beurre nantais harmonie salsa épices fraîcheur bouquet sel précision sauce La Varenne
goût roux patrimoine aromates herbes sauce verte palais équilibre cuisson extraction champ créatif
cuisine moderne tomate fermentation La Chapelle fond oxydation arômes dodine Carême composition
sapidité assemblage Escoffier puissance sauce mère quintessence espagnole intensité dosage mirepoix
déclinaison vinaigrette hollandaise concentration soubise verjus émulsion sauce mayonnaise harmonie
salsa épices La Chapelle fond oxydation arômes dodine Carême composition sapidité richesse saucière
effervescence cameline saveurs émotion jus sauce Robert liaison onctuosité réduction vivacité coulis
béchamel précision textures émulsions goût béarnaise velouté salinité beurre nantais harmonie salsa
épices fraîcheur bouquet sel précision sauce La Varenne goût roux patrimoine aromates herbes sauce
verte palais équilibre cuisson extraction salsa épices fraîcheur bouquet sel précision sauce La Varenne
goût roux patrimoine aromates herbes sauce verte palais équilibre cuisson extraction champ créatif
cuisine moderne tomate fermentation La Chapelle fond oxydation arômes dodine Carême composition
sapidité assemblage Escoffier puissance sauce mère quintessence espagnole intensité dosage mirepoix
déclinaison vinaigrette hollandaise concentration soubise verjus émulsion sauce mayonnaise harmonie
salsa épices fraîcheur bouquet sel précision sauce La Varenne goût roux patrimoine aromates herbes
sauce verte palais équilibre cuisson extraction champ créatif cuisine moderne tomate fermentation La
Chapelle fond oxydation arômes dodine Carême composition sapidité richesse saucière effervescence
cameline saveurs émotion jus sauce Robert liaison onctuosité réduction vivacité coulis béchamel coulis
béchamel précision textures émulsions goût béarnaise velouté salinité beurre nantais assemblage
Escoffierpuissancesaucemèrequintessenceespagnoleintensitédosagemirepoixdéclinaisonvinaigrette
hollandaise concentration soubise verjus émulsion sauce mayonnaise harmonie salsa épices fraîcheur
bouquetselprécisionsauceLaVarennegoûtrouxpatrimoinearomatesherbessaucevertepalaiséquilibre
cuisson extraction champ créatif cuisine moderne tomate fermentation La Chapelle fond oxydation
arômes dodine Carême composition sapidité assemblage Escoffier puissance sauce mère quintessence
espagnole intensité dosage mirepoix déclinaison vinaigrette hollandaise concentration soubise verjus
émulsion sauce mayonnaise harmonie salsa épices fraîcheur bouquet sel précision sauce La Varenne goût
roux patrimoine aromates herbes sauce verte palais équilibre cuisson extraction champ créatif cuisine
moderne tomate fermentation La Chapelle fond oxydation arômes dodine Carême composition sapidité
richesse saucière effervescence cameline saveurs émotion jus sauce Robert liaison onctuosité réduction
Mêlant humour et érudition, ce récit fourmille
d’anecdotes savoureuses sur l’histoire saucière
française.
Il forme un plaidoyer contre la disparition des
grandes sauces, éradiquées de nos assiettes pour
avoir perdu le procès en hérésie diététique qui
leur fut intenté durant le seconde moitié du siècle
dernier.
Yannick Alléno lève le voile sur les nouvelles
techniques qui permettent de créer des sauces
comme on assemble des grands crus. Ces nouvelles
sauces sont au cœur de sa cuisine moderne.
D’hier à demain, le lecteur est convié à un passion-
nant voyage au cœur de l’ADN de notre cuisine.
YANNICK ALLÉNO
VINCENT BRENOT
12 €
prix
ttc
RÉFLEXIONS D’UN CUISINIER
RÉFLEXIONS D’UN CUISINIER
21-7776-2
ISBN: 978-2-01-238769-0
9782012387690
V-2014
34.
35. Per Se | Thomas Keller
What? New York-based Per Se restau-
rant is the culmination of 10 years of culinary excel-
lence. The attention to detail not only sweeps across
the understated menu, but also throughout the spot-
less service and décor. Signature dishes pepper the
nine-course Tasting Menu and à la carte menu, offer-
ing a combination of American and French cuisine.
Who? Michelin maestro and Grand Chef Relais &
Châteaux Thomas Keller is at the helm of Per Se’s
cuisine. With a plethora of awards to his name, Chef
Keller stands tall amongst others as an internationally
renowned master of classic, yet modern and innovative
cuisine.
Where? 10 Columbus Cir #4, New York, NY 10019,
United States | perseny.com
Steirereck Restaurant | Heinz Reitbauer
What? Serving modern Austrian cuisine,
Streirereck is considered the best restaurant in Vienna.
Passionate about featuring the best products, the menu
features classic dishes with a contemporary twist. With
an extensive wine list, the restaurant caters for every
taste.
Who? Presiding over Steirereck, is Grand Chef Relais
& Châteaux Heinz Reitbauer. Describing his cuisine,
Chef Reitbauer says that it is “a contemporary reinter-
pretation of Austrian cuisine, which is very much shaped
by products and season”.
Where? Am Heumarkt 2A/im Stadtpark, A-1030
Vienna, Austria | steirereck.at
#10
#9
41. FRESH PICKS
Sophie Cater gives you FOUR of the newest restaurants around the world
that you really should get yourself to…
NEOLOKAL | TURKEY
Combining traditional Turkish cuisine with
contemporary flare, Neolokal’s kitchen is headed
up by Maksut Aşkar. Each dish is an ode to the lo-
cal produce and ‘mother earth’, considering that
‘remembering the traditions with our perception
of taste is the best way to touch the senses in a
humble manner’, as Chef Aşkar told FOUR.
Even their large wine cellar pays respect to Ne-
olokal’s country; only wines from Turkish winer-
ies are stored.
Bankalar Avenue, Karaköy 34420, İstanbul
QUAGLINO’S | LONDON
Following a full-scale, multi-million pound
renovation, Quaglino’s has reopened with a bang
in London’s Mayfair, celebrating its 85th year.
Executive Chef Mickael Weiss complements
the modern décor with a contemporary Euro-
pean menu. The 240-cover restaurant features
a contemporary European menu using the
highest quality British ingredients. Dishes fuse
traditional European classics with exotic flavours
and spices from the extended continent, such as
Cheltenham beetroot with goat’s curd, winter
leaves, walnuts and dried apricots.
16 Bury Street, London, SW1Y 6AJ
42. LONG CHIM | SINGAPORE
Marina Bay Sands is set to unveil a new chapter
in its world-class dining repertoire with the debut
of Long Chim. With the opening of Long Chim,
David Thompson will join the cast of celebrity
chefs and restaurateurs at Marina Bay Sands
(including Daniel Boulud, Mario Batali, Tetsuya
Wakuda, and Gordon Ramsay).
Located on Atrium 2 at The Shoppes at Marina
Bay Sands and spanning over 6,500 square feet,
the 150-seater restaurant will feature a casual and
exclusive dining space with a main dining area
and three private dining rooms. The menu will
showcase Chef Thompson’s Michelin-starred Thai
cuisine, with dishes such as grilled mussels with
turmeric and coconut, beef stir fried with holy
basil, prawns roasted with vermicelli, green curry
of beef with roti and of course, a fine rendition of
pat thai.
ZAIKA | LONDON
This November Kensington’s much loved In-
dian restaurant, Zaika, will reopen its doors with
a menu of Northern Indian cuisine; a new team
with executive chef Sanjay Gour at the helm, and
a revived look to the 120 cover restaurant space.
Located at 1 Kensington High Street, the reincar-
nation of Zaika comes by popular demand and
will be a sister restaurant to Tamarind of Mayfair,
the first ever Indian restaurant to be awarded
with a Michelin star.
The menu at Zaika will feature starters such as
Palak-patta Chaat (spinach temp-kora, chickpea
salad and lentil doughnut), Samudri Khazana
(Amristsari prawn, lime leaf crab cake, spice
crusted scallop) and Gosht Milan (Tawa grilled
mint lamb cutlet, pulled lamb kurkure, kakori
kebab). In addition to the a la carte menu, a hero
dish of Sikandri Raan (slow braised lamb leg,
browned onion, cashew nut and almond sauce)
will be available for pre-order. Serving four to five
diners, ordering 48 hours in advance allows time
for a lengthy slow cook.
1 Kensington High Street, London, W8 5NP
![FOUR MAGAZINE | PRINT
The
GaGnaire
TwisT
PhotograPhy by Cara tomPkins
Forever pushing culinary boundaries, Pierre Gagnaire’s Twist restaurant, in
the beating heart of the Las Vegas Strip at the Mandarin Oriental hotel, is
bold and eccentric, writes Sophie Cater
T
ill Rabus is flying a powerful flag for emerging
artists who portray the world we live in.
His work is somewhat of an oxymoron;
painting still-lives, landscapes and nudes
with precision and hyperrealism, his works
are stark representations of our modern world, while
his compositional manipulations echo surrealist values.
“However, it seems like I am too down-to-earth to be
surrealist,” Till explains. “I don’t want to talk about my
dreams or imaginary worlds. What interests me is
being able to manipulate objects and putting them in
a situation to create shapes and peculiar atmospheres.”
Till has a penchant for eradicating any human presence
and suggesting that the objects that he portrays are left
behind by human consumption.
Growing up in Switzerland, near Neuchâtel, Till
discovered his passion for art at an exhibition byAmerican
artist Bruce Nauman in Zurich. “I felt very intrigued by
it,” he says. “I think from that day on, I started to become
Swiss artist Till Rabus’ hyperrealist paintings of everyday objects
come with a surrealist twist, Sophie Cater writes
Fictional reality
14
interested in contemporaryart and would travel around to
visit exhibitions in museums, art galleries and biennales.”
Specialising in engraving, Till worked in a watch factory
before working for an educative rainforest association in
Brazil. Upon his return to Switzerland, the young artist
came into fruition.
While being influenced by Swiss painters, sculptors
and visual artists like Fischli/Weiss, Urs Fischer, Roman
Signer and Christoph Büchel,Till also draws on the work of
international artists like Paul McCarthyand Mike Kelley,the
Chapman brothers, ErwinWurm and Sarah Lucas. Similarly
depicting humorous, ironic and sometimes shocking
subjects, Till addresses the topics of waste, sex, life and
death in his paintings by depicting landscapes, nudes and
still lives that he assembles and paints using acrylic and
oil paint. “We are invaded by objects, waste, adverts and
photos on the internet. I sort [through] the waste, I recycle
[it] and from that material I tryto create workthat is out of
the ordinary.” Using hyperrealist techniques, Till’s work »
arT
A LittLe
Off Centre
PhotograPhy by Jean Cazals
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