1. RE-INVENTING
OLD BLUE
38 sportswear international india I ending january 2013 I focus I feature
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2. >Widely projected by celebrities, denim trends of Spring Summer
2012 have been a delight. A bevy of international stars have been
flaunting modish pieces in denims. So, are regular blue denims in
clean lines more in demand over the funky, printed, patterned or
distressed version?
Is blue colour only for the staid regular Joe and Jane or are they
perceived as classics, meant for those with sophisticated tastes?
Are experimental prints on wild hues favoured only by the painfully
trendy, or can regular college kids capitalise on the look? What’s hot
on the radar of fashion pundits as sale-able trends in denims? If there
were to be a debate on ruling denim trends, then it starts right here.
We asked leaders of the trade, what kind of denims should stores
stock up on this Fall Winter and in Spring Summer 2013. Read on.
Medley of prints
In the denim world, 2012 will be best remembered for its eclectic
prints. Although it started a year before that; this time a deluge of
varied prints, overshadowing the timeless blue.
Prints are very important for the next spring summer collection too
and floral patterns are likely to rule as suggested by both Pepe and
GAS. Chetan Shah, Country Head, Pepe Jeans India, says, “Printed
denims – be it floral, animal motifs or just abstract are taking the
retail by storm-creating their own space. These will not remain niche
but widen their reach.”
“Flowery prints or gritty reptile patterns will highlight some of the
different interpretations of GAS’ Sumatra jeggings for women, having
the second skin effect and five-pockets,” says Barbara Grotto, Head,
Marketing and Communication, GAS Jeans.
According to Ampar Pramod, Executive Director, VOI Jeans, “Laser as
a concept is big internationally and is catching up in India as well. A
lot of brands are using this concept to promote low impact denims to
save water and energy. Laser technology is mostly computerised now
and it reduces the process time.”
Grotto seconds Pramod and says that the laser technology is crucial
to the upcoming spring summer. GAS has used it for a very advanced
THE CLIMATE IN THE
DENIM COUNTRY
IS CHANGING. THE
DEVELOPERS WOULD
BE OFFERING EVER-
WIDER ASSORTMENT
OF GOOD OLD JEANS,
PUNCTUATED BY MANY
TWISTS. BUT THAT
CLASSIC, VERY MUCH
REMAINS A PART OF
THE SEASON... BY SHWETA JAIN
MAUGLI, SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
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technique - a treatment that attacks the fabric, and by varying the intensity of the beam,
creates a camouflage effect contaminated with floral elements.
“A trend to look forward to is subtle and detailed placement of prints,” suggests, Brijesh
Shah, Director, Lemax Jeans, adding, “Since the laser-cut technique is much in vogue,
it has a future in denims. However, it would be slow to trickle down to the consumers
because of the costs involved.”
Taking a cue from the European market, VOI Jeans predicts a huge demand of patterned
denims in India. Pramod says, “There is a lot of emphasis on Aztec motifs and animal
prints, which are achieved by either laser technology or discharge printing.”
According to the denim portal Denimsandjeans.com, indigo patterns, striped prints, and
printed wefts will make for huge trends in the coming year. Similarly, Tommy Hilfiger will
be selling printed denims in tonal shades.
One would see animal prints in motley colours such as pink, green and orange, instead of
brown. Busy or 3-D prints will be another trend, while florals will continue to be popular.
Edgy washes
Year 2012 might have forgotten stone wash amidst the hues and welcome chaos of prints
but the process will be back in 2013. They are not the regular, in-your-face washes, but
techniques with a difference − bright wefts peeping out of pale warps, will appear in
distressed denims. Other interesting wash will be the one with spray-paint effect, in
varied colour schemes.
GAS will stock this trend. The brand will experiment with medium to
medium-light shades treated with sandpapering and light washes
to give a “raw and used” look that is fluid and tactile, bright but still
discreet. Sophisticated treatments using tone on tone yarns, patches,
coloured spots and dirtying will be done too.
Whereas, at Lemax you would find washes on the darker lines, with
minimal streaks and handwork. Pepe will be selling jeans having
more of raw rinse, worn look and diluted-effect washes. For
Autumn Winter 2012-13, Celio has lent their denims a very strong
streetwear feel highlighted by a heavy influence of both classic
and stone washes; as well as waxed raw jeans.
However much some of us like our washes, there’s one
dissenting brand - VOI, which stresses that natural treatments
will prevail in the coming seasons, inclining more towards eco-
friendly denims.
Distressed - to be or not
It emerged as the singular major denim trend in last two
years and got the denim lovers hooked to it. Although
distressed denims are highlighted by frayed ends or
ripped thighs, many brands and designers are showing
the tear camouflaged by numerous add-ons. One of
them is patching lace to the denim, the other being
painting warp and weft in two contrasting tones.
And yet others like Shah and Pramod feel that the
absolute smashed look won’t rule the trend charts.
Raw and “worn in” look which appears over the time
by regular use, like fade-in and natural whiskers
will be in demand say experts.
Designer Phillip Lim showed variations of the
worn look, enhanced by patchwork, in his Resort
m to
s
till
ches,
th
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VIPINKARDAM
DENIMS
FROM PEPE
JEANS
LONDON
LEMAX JEANS
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4. 2013 collection. Even at Pepe one wouldn’t see extremely
torn denims but a hint of distressed will be there in upcoming
collections. GAS is giving an up to date, sophisticated “raw used”
interpretation, which is not distressed.
Taking it further, the treatment will lend itself to ripped jackets
and skirts as well.
Fabric mishmash
The jeans isn’t pure denim anymore. A lot of fabrics are mixed
and matched at various manufacturing units. Linen blends with
denim, stretch denims consisting of LYCRA®, sateen weaves,
knitted denims, 3-D fabrics, wefts in tweed, plaid denims,
reversibles, and many more of such blends are expected.
Pepe is to inject thick fabrics with coloured coatings, reverse
printing, striped and multi-coloured yarns in their new
collections; and so would VOI with its indigo coatings, nep yarns,
and combinations such as wool blends and rigid stretches.
Another major comeback in the denim fabrics is selvedge.
Traditionally considered a weakness of die-hard denim
connoisseurs with expensive tastes; brands such as VOI and
Wrangler launched their own version for the Indian market.
Deriving from the term ‘self-edge’, selvedge denims are made on
traditional narrow width shuttle looms. It refers to the edge of
woven fabric finished so as to prevent raveling or fraying, often in
a narrow tape effect, different from the body of the fabric.
Grotto says that at GAS they always stock this niche premium
line in its collection. Keeping in mind the beauty of this vintage
technique, VOI Jeans has an ongoing series called the ‘Neverage
Selvedge’, which makes use of authentic selvedge fabrics from
Japan.“We are trying to educate the a la mode denim customer
about the fine points of selvedge and the reasons of it being
expensive,” informs Pramod.
So besides, selvedge, what else will be flying off the shelves,
light weight or thick denims? Tommy Hilfiger predicts that light
to medium weight denims are going to make the grade. But again,
this is something that strongly depends on the season and the
markets. With two seasons predominant in India across many
regions, this might vary. Another perspective shared by Shah is,
“Since there is much more experimentation in silhouettes these days,
and comfort is of prime importance to the consumer, lightweight
denims are and would continue to be sought after.”
“Thanks to research, improvement in technologies and innovative
materials used by the best fabric producers, what is certain is that
denim is becoming more and more comfortable and stretchy without
renouncing its authenticity,” shares Grotto. Since stretch denims and
jeggings are some of the top items in demand, Invista, the makers of
LYCRA®, have come up with a new innovation TOUGH MAX™ LYCRA®
fabric for denims.
Says Avinash Chandra, Marketing Head, South Asia, Invista, “While
analysing the market, Invista noted that rugged jeans could last a
long time but they were made from heavy fabric and felt stiff. And
while 100 per cent cotton jeans were comfortable, they did not always
stand up to the demands of an active lifestyle. This fabric fulfills all
the requirements of style, performance fibres and fabric. Made from a
blend of cotton and high performance LYCRA® T400® fibre, it has up
to twice the strength and abrasion resistance of 100 per cent cotton
and offer enhanced comfort through freedom of movement.”
Colour spectrum
Just Cavalli Resort 2013 collection showcased electric fluorescent
green combined with grey in one single denim piece. In India, brands
are playing safe with deep shades of red, green and blue, but
internationally, fluorescent tints in denim have been splashing the
runways and streets. Two-toned colour schemes, acid shades, and
pastels will be all the rage.
At Lemax, the look will lean towards a solid and neon palette. “The
current trend would see brighter shades as overdyes.”
LEFT:GAS JEANS,
TOP AND RIGHT:
DENIMS FROM 7
FOR ALL MANKIND
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As for GAS, both are very important, even in an unconventional
contamination of the two. Its SUMATRA jegging comes in pastel
shades, both solid and printed, and in a Reverse two-tone version
with contrasting colours, where the inside is in neon shades.
Grotto says,“A brighter colour inside and grey outside as a result of
intense washes creates a chiaroscuro effect with unusual nuances
that sway from acid green to teal, mauve and wisteria blue.”
At Pepe, jeans in safe, pastel colours will be available.
Consumer classification
Here we go back to the questions we raised in the beginning to
understand which category of consumers prefer what kind of
denim. According to many denim brands, consumers up north
prefer thicker and more rugged denims due to colder weather
conditions whereas regions like Mumbai prefer softer and
lightweight denims.
“Different regions in India prefer different styles depending
upon the climate and their exposure to media or fashion. What a
teenager would wear in a small town would be much louder - be it
in style, wash or branding - as compared to what one would see in
Mumbai or maybe Delhi. Again, the younger consumer has a more
experimental mentality and they would like to use the denims
much more roughly as compared to an older consumer. For the
latter, it is more about comfort, class, and luxury. There are those
who wouldn’t mind paying more for red selvedge made out of the
finest raw denim,” explains Shah.
Grotto seconds Shah and adds, “There are two reasons for why
younger consumers tend to wear more experimental looks whereas
the older consumer prefers cleaner ones. The first difference
is college trends, and spare time versus professional life. The
second one has to do with personality − younger people are still
forming it and they are not self-conscious. They feel the need to be
‘rebellious’ even in the garments they wear. That it should bring out
a message about what they want to be, more than who they are;
and that’s why they usually look for more extreme looking items.”
Not only can the regional denim retailers take a cue from the
denim trends introduced by the forecasters and major players
in the market; but India’s young denim consumers can also look
forward to having a great fashion year ahead, with the denim
brands going all out to offer a melange of trends.
Denim fads
• Double denim - denim shirts, cover ups, and accessories
over jeans or jean skirts.
• Jeans made of mixed fabrics.
• Coloured denims - as have been never seen before, fluores-
cent, acid, tonal and textured shades.
• Cropped jeans - mid-calf, below the knee or just above the
ankle.
• Ripped denim - ripped trousers, shirts, jackets and shorts.
• Light weight denims.
• Custom-made denims.
• Embroidery, striped, printed, tye-n-dyed denims.
ssssssssswwwwwwwww42 sportswear international india I ending january 2013 I focus I feature
TOMMY HILFIGER ABOVE:GAS JEANS
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